june 2014 feast magazine

an icon turns 50

IMO’S PIZZA10 to try

BURGER BONANZAmike mills’ empire

BBQ MASTER

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis feastSTL.com | JUNE 2014 | FREE

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3Inspired Food Culture J U N E 2 0 1 4

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis burger bracket 38

‘cued up58

4 feastSTL.com JUNE 2014

mike mills the smoke eatersvs.50

the square beyond

compare

JUNE 2014

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of AnniE Gunn’s buRGER (P. 38) bY Jennifer Silverberg

TAblE Of COnTEnTs PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jonathan Gayman

from the staff| 8 | from the PUBLIsher Taste tradition.

| 10 | dIgItaL content What’s online this month.

| 12 | feast tv A peek at the June episode.

| 14 | feast faves Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in st. louis.

coLUmns| 22 | one on one st. louis’ John Kennington invents a gadget that improves cooking with charcoal grills.

| 24 | seed to taBLe farmer Crystal stevens picks dandelions for hearty fritters.

| 26 | mystery shoPPer buy it and try it: Pomegranate molasses.

| 28 | menU oPtIons Homemade cucumber water brightens up white gazpacho.

| 30 | sweet Ideas Pastry chef Christy Augustin ups angel food cake.

| 32 | gadget a-go-go four stovetop grill pans are put to the test.

| 34 | on the sheLf new and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 36 | the mIx Musing on the Moscow Mule.

| 74 | the Last BIte Writer stacy McCann satisfies a fresh fruit fix at 222 Artisan bakery in Edwardsville.

66


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Pappy’s SmokehouseHistorical Commentary & Live Music

Friday, June 27, 20146:00 PM to 8:00 PM

Archbishop’s Residence

A Scholarship Fundraiser for Bishop DuBourg High School

Volume 5 | Issue 6 | June 2014

Publisher and Editor

Catherine [email protected]

Managing Editor, Print ContentLiz Miller

[email protected]

Managing Editor, Digital ContentKristin Brashares

[email protected]

Art DirectorLisa Allen

[email protected]

Director of SalesKelly Klein

[email protected]

Copy Editor/Fact CheckerAlexandra Bates, Barbara E. Stefano

Proofreader Christine Wilmes

Editorial Assistants Tory Bahn

Stacy McCann

Contributing WritersChristy Augustin, Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Shannon Cothran

Thomas Crone, Pat Eby, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm Lucy Schwetye, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens

Michael Sweeney, Andrew Mark Veety, Shannon Weber

Contributing PhotographersJonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, J.Pollack Photography

Jennifer Silverberg, Steve Truesdell, Cheryl Waller

Feast TVproducers:

Catherine NevilleKristin Brashares

production partner:Pounds Media

contributing Videographers:Judd Demaline, Kurt Ehlmann, James Jackson, John Jacobsen

Chris Roider, Alessio Summerfield, Charles Thomas

Contact UsFeast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor

St. Louis, MO 63101314.340.8562

feastSTL.com

DistributionTo distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please

contact Jeff Moore at [email protected].

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2014 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

Magazine


Pairs well with

SUN S H I NESummer is in full swing and Missouri wine country calls to us. The warm temperaturesand clear blue skies create the need for adventure. Make the most of your wanderlustat one of our more than 125 Missouri Wineries. Spend the afternoon sampling some

of our crisp, refreshing varietals while soaking in those beautiful rays.

Plan your escape at missouriwine.org.


pubLiSher’S LeTTer

Feast in The parkNow to October, 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County ParksThis weekly festival gathers mobile eats and popular bands in parks across St. Louis County.

Clayton Farmers’ MarketNow to October, 4:30 to 7:30pm Thursdays; North Central Ave., Downtown Clayton; claytonfarmersmarket.comThe market supports local farmers, spotlights organic and natural foods and unique specialties.

Strange Donuts National Donut Day partyFri., June 6; Kuva Coffee headquarters; facebook.com/strangedonutsStrange Donuts hosts its National Donut Day party in partnership with Kuva Coffee, featuring collaborations with local partners.

Art&Air FestivalJune 6 to 8; Webster University/Eden Theological Seminary; wcaf.org/artandairArt&Air features food from favorite restaurants, non-stop live music performances and creative activities that draw 25,000 visitors and buyers.

St. Louis uncorked Fri., June 6, and Sat., June 7; Soldier’s MemorialGet a first sip of summer with local wines, craft beers, live music and great eats. Presented by CBS St. Louis.

Kids Cook! Sat., June 7, noon to 3pm; Roth Distributing; $65, [email protected] or 314.486.9246Kids and parents get hands-on and learn to cook a meal together. Presented by The Nest.

Green homes FestivalSat., June 7, 9am to 4pm; Missouri Botanical Garden; mobot.org/greenhomesfestLearn, play and engage with people with an interest in sustainable, healthy lifestyles.

Clayton’s Food Truck SundaysJune 8, July 13 and August 10, 4 to 8pm; Shaw Park; claytonmo.gov/ftsJoin us for great mobile eats and live music in Clayton’s Shaw Park.

rick Lewis’ pub GrubThu., June 19, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $45, schnuckscooks.comChef Rick Lewis of Quincy Street Bistro will teach you how to make pub-style burgers.

Schnucks Cooks GazpachoWed., June 25, 6pm to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704Join publisher Cat Neville in the kitchen and make a meal built around white Spanish gazpacho.

1st Cocktail party CommemorationFri., June 27, 5:30 to 7:30pm; The Archbishop’s Residence; $600 per person; [email protected] from Sidney Street Café and Pappy’s Smokehouse, period cocktails by Planter’s House, historical commentary by Eric Felten and music by Tom McDermott to benefit the Bishop DuBourg High School’s Tuition Assistance Program.

Let Them eat Art Fri., July 11; Downtown Maplewood; cityofmaplewood.comFeaturing a self-guided tour with live demos by more than 50 regional artists, live music, food and drink.

FeAST eVeNTS

“when somebody goes away, first thing they do when they come

back is they come to us and have a burger. it happens over and over again.”– curt grass, co-owner, gordon’s stoplight drive-in

Certain things define the flavor of home, that taste of tradition and nostalgia that connects us to memories and the shared experience of community. Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In (turn to p. 38 to read Andrew Mark Veety’s take on their Quadzilla along with a number of other notable burgers) has been serving its smashed-and-seared burgers since 1948 and the recipe has not changed since the day the small diner opened in Crystal City, Missouri. Multiple generations have grown up sitting on the mid-century swivel stools that line Gordon’s Formica countertops and you can bet those burgers and shakes will be eagerly devoured for generations to come.

Same goes for Imo’s Pizza, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Regardless of where you stand on the Provel issue, if you grew up in St. Louis, you remember your first taste of the “square beyond compare” and one bite of that signature thin-crust pie will undoubtedly bring back a rush of memories. Thomas Crone introduces you to the family behind Imo’s on p. 66.

And nothing evokes more sense of place than barbecue, that most American of foods. Brandon Chuang had the privilege of spending a day in the kitchen with Mike Mills, the legendary barbecue master behind 17th Street Barbecue in Murphysboro, Illinois (p. 50). Mills grew up barbecuing, carrying on a tradition that began with his father, and is ushering that tradition into the future in collaboration with his daughter, Amy. Food is a thread that can tie us together in a way that few other elements of our society can and these pages are packed with delicious classics, so pull up a stool and dig into our June issue for a definitive taste of an American summer.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

[email protected] @cat_neville @cat_neville

In the June episode of Feast TV, I get behind the grill and demo columnist Shannon Weber’s pomegranate molasses-glazed chicken thighs. Enter to win the Weber Performer charcoal grill, courtesy of Gas Appliance Service and Fireplace & Grill Center, at feastSTL.com.


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feastSTL.comDIGITAL CONTENT

BURGER SHOWDOWN. We think all of the burgers in Burger Bracket (p. 38) are winners, but a true bracket requires some friendly competition. Visit feastSTL.com to vote for your favorite burger in each of the five styles we feature this month. (Pictured is Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In’s Quadzilla.)

SPECIAL GIVEAWAY. Enter to win the Weber Performer charcoal grill featured on the June episode of Feast TV! Get details on the prize, from Fireplace & Grill Center and Gas Appliance Service, in the Promotions section at feastSTL.com.

Watch our videos. youtube.com/FeastMagazine

FACEBOOk. What to get Dad? Check facebook.com/feastSTL for our daily Father’s Day giveaways leading up to the holiday.

Stay up-to-date on new openings (like Union Station’s Grand Hall) and exciting spots in the works at @feastmag.

INSTAGRAm. Follow @feastmag to see what we’re eating and drinking around town.

Our Burgers! board at pinterest.com/feastmag features some of our other favorite spots to get them (like Stacked Burger Bar in Carondelet).

hungry for more?connect with us daily:

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www.SugarfireSmokeHouse.com

9955 Winghaven BlvdO’Fallon, MO

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9200 Olive Blvd,Olivette, MO

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Open 11am- Sold Out

Delivery, Dine In, Take Out, Catering3 Locations

A 2012 "FEAST" Favorite!Thank You all Local Area Chefs

for Making Us #1Located in the Meridian Shopping Center

at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.

FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGETu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm

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Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant

HomemadeGreek FoodCarry out • Catering

Private PartiesGyros • Kebobs • Baklava

oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNaPatio Now open

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FRESHEST SEAFOODIN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!bobsseafoodstl.com

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Sarah’s Cake Pops for Your Pop!Sarah’s Cake Shop has proven that we deliver more than just a cake -treat your POP to our cake pops and create memories for years to come.

Sarah’s is a locally owned business offering Custom Cakes, Cupcakes,Petit Fours, Desserts and Seasonal delights to the greater St. Louis area.

Celebrating 10 Years of Sweet Memories.

Monday & Tuesday 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.Wednesday-Saturday 8 a.m. – 7 p.m.White-Klump Photography

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FEAST TV

Segment 1. Head down to southern Missouri for a rare look at how Rockwood Charcoal goes from 100-percent hardwood to your barbecue pit.

Segment 2. Grab a stool at Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In, where generations of customers have enjoyed the same menu since 1948.

Segment 4. Find out what it was like for 17th Street barbecue’s Amy Mills to grow up with a barbecue legend and her role now in the business.

Segment 3. Go into the pits with 17th Street barbecue’s Mike Mills and get a step-by-step look at how he makes barbecue magic.

watch this month’s episode to:

TV

Watch the upcoming June episode on the Nine Network (Channel 9) at 2pm on Sat., June 7, and 1pm on Mon., June 9. Feast TV will also air on the nineCREATE channel periodically throughout the month.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:ROTH LIVING

Roth Living curates innovation and luxury in high-end appliances. Explore Roth’s showroom to experience an appliance’s true

performance and create the inspired kitchen of your dreams.

MISSOuRI WINESIn June, go for a bottle of St. James Winery’s 2012 Norton. Feast

TV producer Cat Neville pairs it with Mystery Shopper columnist Shannon Weber’s pomegranate molasses-glazed chicken thighs.

WHOLE FOOdS MARkET Get grilling at home – pick up the ingredients and

recipe from Cat’s demo at both St. Louis-area locations of Whole Foods Market.

Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!


Since 1893

Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pmAppointments & Service Available

24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week

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SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and themost courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available carwash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.

Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a dayfor the rest of your stay.*Name Email

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M-Th 5-9pm • Fri/Sat 5-10pm

$30 ~ 4 Course Tasting Menu

SPRING / SUMMER MENU

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BOARDS ServedwithToasted Bread

PORK BELLY RILLETTESSweet&Spicy Pickles, GrainMustard, RedOnion

HOUSE RICOTTAToastedWalnut Pesto, Oven RoastedTomatoes

HUMMUSGreenOlive&Caper Relish, Lemon&OliveOil

SMALL PLATESBBQ SHRIMPBacon Shallot Grits, CitrusVinaigrette

CHEESE PUFFSCountryWhite Bread, Sharp CheddarMousse, House Catsup – APing family tradition

ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOESLemonGarlic Aioli

CARAMELIZED PORK BELLYToasted Brioche, CreamedSweet Corn, Roasted JalapenoRelish

SANDWICHESBURGERIPAWhite Cheddar Spread, House Catsup, Chips

APRICOT BOURBON PULLED PORKHouse BBQSauce, Chips

BANH MICaramelized Pork Belly, ChipotleMayo, Pickled Carrot & Jalapeno Slaw

LARGE PLATESROASTED CHICKENBacon Shallot Grits, HeirloomTomato&Cucumber Salad

COLA & CHERRY GLAZED PORK CHOPSmokedCorn&Sweet PotatoHash, Frissee Salad, BaconVinaigrette

STRIPRedSkinMashed Potatoes, Garlic Green Beans, Roasted Chipolini Onions, RedWineReduction

CRAB CAKESweet CreamedCorn, Remoulade, CitrusVinaigrette

314-553-9994 5400 Murdoch • St. Louis, MO. 63109 www.russellscafe.com


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This newly opened tavern’s “three flags” moniker reflects the three cultures that inform the menu, which are also the three flags that have flown over the City of St. Louis since its founding 250 years ago: Spain, France and the U.S. At this beautifully rehabbed spot on the edge of The Hill, the kitchen is turning out unique dishes worthy of your attention. Piping hot beignets studded with lobster meat are dusted with Old bay-laced powdered sugar. Rabbit sausage is served alongside black bread and grain mustard. And posole features a hunk of berkshire pork and two crisp pieces of fry bread, a novel take on the traditional stew. Light, flaky trout is served with lingonberries, herbs and a horseradish flan and the heirloom pork mixed grill will satisfy hearty appetites. For dessert, the flourless chocolate cake beckons, but we say get the apple tart, which is a rustic thing of beauty, served with softly whipped cardamon-Calvados cream. In short, Three Flags Tavern is a must-try. –C.N.

4940 Southwest Ave., The Hill314.669.9222threeflagstavern.com

three flags tavern

FEAST FAVES | where we’re dining

15Inspired Food Culture J U n e 2 0 1 4

From thick, juicy steaks to an internationalbuffet, you’ll never run out of delicious

dining options in a city this big.

888.578.7289 | rivercity.com

Void for persons on the self or state exclusion lists or otherwise excluded from River City or any other properties owned by Pinnacle Entertainment.Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF. ©2014 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

APPETITEFOR FUNA LWAY S H A S ROOM FOR MOR E

AN

Kyle Harsha is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier with over 20 years’ experience in the food and wine industry. He drinks more wine than he probably ought to.

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FEAST FAVES | where we’re drInkIng

the dark room @ grand center

wRiTTen by kyle harsha

when rumors started swirling about a new wine bar opening in Grand Center, my first thought was, “what a perfect idea; i wish i would have thought of that.” The slowly burgeoning area has long supported local performers, but there have only been a few short-lived places to sip upscale drinks within walking distance of The Fabulous Fox Theatre and Powell Hall. The Dark Room now satisfies that need with a space that is not only cool to look at, but also supports a good cause. Proceeds from the space benefit Grand Center inc.’s mission “to support the arts, preserve a legacy and transform a neighborhood into a vibrant community.”

The wine list – curated by bill Kneip, owner of local distributor Pinnacle imports LLC – is distinctive, with a wide variety of options. we sipped glasses of weins-Prüm Riesling and Domaine Lafond Côtes du Rhône ($12 and $9, respectively), while looking over the wine list, which will change on roughly the same schedule as the featured art. The high-end by-the-glass options rang in at $23, and all of the domestic and foreign bottle selections were less than $100. The beer list is weighted toward locally produced selections and, on my visit, included the likes of Urban Chestnut brewing Co., Perennial Artisan Ales and 4 Hands brewing Co. Food choices are geared more toward grabbing a quick bite: small plates, cheese and meat boards and flatbreads featuring local producers such as Salume beddu and bissinger’s.

The dining room has a heavy industrial vibe, with a lot of unpolished metal, wood and decorations appropriate for a bar that showcases local photography. Rotating selections of local art adorn the walls, changing on a monthly basis. My wife described the feel as “swanky,” and patrons were certainly well-heeled, likely on their way to a play or symphony performance.

615 n. Grand blvd., Grand Center, 314.531.3416, thedarkroomstl.com


master pieza

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From the sidewalk in front of Master Pieza, you don’t realize you’re about to step inside of a painting. There are clues – the new Cherokee Street pizza joint’s sign is shaped like a painter’s palate and its name suggests that “master pieces” are crafted within – but inside, the walls pay tribute to the work of Danish artist Piet Mondrian. behind the counter, Master Pieza owner and chef William Porter prepares made-to-order whole pizzas and pizza-by-the-slice from scratch using only the freshest ingredients. Master Pieza’s pizza falls somewhere between St. Louis- and New york-style, with hand-tossed, thin crust pies cut into squares. The shop’s 14-inch and 16-inch pizzas – including its signature veggie topped with broccoli, spinach, red onion and green bell peppers – can be made with mozzarella or Provel. In addition to pizza, Master Pieza serves sides of tangy hot wings and sweetly seasoned fries. And for those enjoying Cherokee Street’s booming nightlife, the shop serves eats until 3am on Friday and Saturday nights. –L.M.

2846 Cherokee St., Cherokee business District, 314.369.0304

FEAST FAVES | Where We’re dining


2061 ZUMBEHL (Bogey Hills Plaza) • ST. CHARLES, MO636-949-9005 • www.fratellisristorante.comFollow us on

Proudlycelebra

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Gluten free

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now available!

FEATURING DAILY SPECIALSMonday-Friday Lunch & Dinner / Saturday-Sunday Dinner Only

Special Appetizers and Drink Prices

During Happy Hour 4pm - 7pm Mon- Fri in the Bar.

Fine ItalianCuisine fromFamilyRecipes!

The best bands in St. Louis are getting ready topounce on the Saint Louis Zoo for a howling good time.All summer long, the Jungle Boogie Concert Seriesturns up the fun for free, every Friday night from5 to 8 p.m. Party with thousands of animals andenjoy everything the Zoo has to offer until closing time.But don’t stop there. We’re staying open until 7 p.m.on Saturday and Sunday evenings for Prairie FarmsSummer Zoo Weekends. It’s enough to make atwo-legged creature consider going nocturnal.

Jungle Boogie Concert SeriesFriday Nights, 5–8 p.m.Presented by Mid America Chevy Dealers

WE CRANK UP THE

EVERY WEEKEN

ROCK‘N’ROARROCK‘N’ROAR

stlzoo.org

July4 GalaxyRed (goes

until 9 p.m.)11 American Idle18 Pennsylvania Slim25 The VCRs

August1 Mood Swings8 Coco Soul15 Griffin & the Gargoyles22 Ticket to the Beatles29 FatPocket

June6 Miss Jubilee and

the Humdingers13 NASHVEGAS20 (No Concert)27 Big Brother Thunder

& the Master Blasters

spiced up

| 1 | Code 3 Spices Backdraft Rub, Rescue Rub and 5-0 Rub, $6.99/each; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com | 2 | Kakao Chocolate cocoa grilling rub, $6; Kakao Chocolate, multiple locations, kakaochocolate.com | 3 | Hendricks BBQ Pork Rub, Beef Rub and Lil’ Willies’ Love Rub, $7/each; Hendricks BBQ, 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.724.8600, hendricksbbq.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman

Flavorful, fragrant grill rubs spice up chicken, beef, pork, seafood and more, adding new appeal and complexity to summer grilling standards. From all-purpose seasonings to more hot-and-smoky or sweet-and-zesty options, these locally made rubs are surefire ways to amp up backyard grilling this season. – L.M.

FEAST FAVES | Food stuFF

KAKAo CHoCoLAtE

HENdRICKs BBQ

CodE 3 sPICEs


grilling store at terraWritten by Shannon Cothran

Vickie Jeude recently married the love of her life, and as a wedding present, she bought her fiancé the best gift she could imagine: a big Green egg. One of the most popular kamado-style grills in the world, the big Green egg is one of many cookers sold at the store Jeude manages, Terra.

Located in Des Peres, terra’s tagline well summarizes its wares: “Good Life inside and Out.” the large store utilizes its indoor floor space and outdoor perimeter to showcase its large selection of patio furniture, grills and grilling accessories. Outside, an entire outdoor kitchen gives customers a taste of what the shop specializes in.

Fans of backyard grilling can find everything from basics like charcoal and wood chips to specialized accessories like grilling woks and LeD lights for grilling after dark. in addition to its outdoor offerings, the shop also stocks a sizable collection of glassware, home décor and kitchen gadgets. And the stock is constantly changing, so shoppers never see the same merchandise twice. “We buy small amounts,” explains Jeude. “We only buy one or two of each item, so our selection is unique, and then we just have smaller amounts come in more often.”

At terra, Jeude and her crew host demonstrations in the shop’s outdoor kitchen on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, usually between noon and 2pm. “We rotate on the big Green egg, the Weber, the Vintage and a Memphis Smoker,” Jeude says. “We do meat demos on them, so our guests can go in our kitchen and try the different ways we [prepare food]. We always have something in our kitchen for people to try.”

11769 Manchester road, Des Peres314.966.0800, terrastl.com

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| 1 | the Bradley Six-Rack Digital Smoker will take the guesswork out of smoking meats at home. At only 39.5-inches high, it still provides 780 square inches of smoking space inside, and comes with a guide and a recipe book for novice home cooks. | 2 | Grill after dark with Charcoal Companion’s LED Grill Light with silicone cover. the light has five LeD bulbs and comes in several colors to choose from, and easily attaches to almost any grill so cooks can safely see what they’re grabbing on moonless summer nights. | 3 | Gourmet Grillware is made of a mixture of 10 different metals. it can be used to cook, bake, broil or grill, and it’s so attractive, even your grandmother would use it. terra carries a wide range of Gourmet Grillware, including salt and pepper shakers and a chili pot.

ThREE GREaT GRiLLinG GaDGETS aT TERRa

FEAST FAVES | Shop-o-maTiC

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Happy Father’s DayFrom the Prezzavento FamilyProudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere.

Call Now To Book Your Father’s Day Reservations!

Try Our Villa Puccini Toscana WinePaired with Beef Marsala

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5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

Chicken Dinner Sundays

Buy one chicken dinnerGet onechicken dinner FREEExpires June 30, 2014. Dine-in only. Limit one coupon per table.Not to be combined with any other offers.

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

| 1 | Bombshell Spice Rub, $4.59; Raspberry Jalapeño Sauce, $5.98; Bogart’s Smoke House Voodoo Sauce, $3.95; Ellbee’s Original Garlic Seasoning and Rub, $6.99; Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., Lafayette

Square, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com | 2 | Kiki Tall Beechwood Grinder, $49.95; Kiki Short Beechwood Grinder, $44.95; Crate and Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.

com | 3 | Beef kabobs and assorted locally grown tomatoes, asparagus and corn, prices vary; Fields Foods | 4 | Medium Big Green Egg, $679; Big Green Egg Medium Metal Eggnest, $146; Big Green Egg Medium Wooden Folding Shelves, $101.95; Big Green Egg Grate Rack, $13.95; Forshaw, 825 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, 314.993.5570, forshaws.com | 5 | Four-Piece Pinch and Pour Prep Bowl Set, $14.95; Crate and Barrel | 6 | Nordic Ware Indoor/Outdoor Side Dish Basket, $12.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood

Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com | 7 | Kitchen towels, $4.95/each; Cornucopia | 8 | Bodum Grill Fork,

$16.99; Bodum Silicone Basting Brush, $16.99; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.966.0800, terrastl.com | 9 | Rockwood Charcoal, $9.99; Fields Foods | 10 | Bodum Stainless-Steel Grilling Tongs, $16.99; Terra | 11 | Kabob Skewers, $23.95;

Cornucopia | 12 | Fox Run Grill Charms, $11.99/set of six; Terra | 13 | Big Green Egg Grill Rings, $14.99; Terra | 14 | Pino IVV Pitcher, $49.95; Crate and Barrel | 15 | Fox Run Butter Buttons Spreaders, $1.29/each; Terra | 16 | Charcoal Companion Rosewood Corn Holders, $13.99/set of eight; Terra | 17 | Marin Orange Pasta-Low Bowl, $9.95; Crate and Barrel | 18 | Charcoal Companion Corn Skewers, $11.99; Terra | 19 | Big Green Egg Barbecue Sauce Mop, $14.99; Terra | 20 | Architec Red Silicone HotGrip Trivet, $6.95; Cornucopia

grilling upgradeFEAST FAVES | whAT we’re buying

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman20 feastSTL.com June 2014

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Take summer cookouts up a notch by investing in a high-performance charcoal grill and smart, sleek grilling tools and gadgets to match. –L.M.

| 1 Raspberry Jalapeño Sauce, $5.98; Bogart’s Smoke House Voodoo Sauce, $3.95; Ellbee’s Original Garlic Seasoning and Rub, $6.99; Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., Lafayette

Square, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com $13.95; Forshaw, 825 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac,

Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com Kitchen towels, $4.95/each; Cornucopia

$16.99; Bodum Silicone Basting Brush, $16.99; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.966.0800, terrastl.com $9.99; Fields Foods Stainless-Steel Grilling Tongs, $16.99; Terra

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You may have seen a movie,but have you evereaten one?

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Celebrate Harold Ramis in July withGhostbusters, Caddyshack, Stripes,and Animal House!

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Try our 18oz.Prime Ribeye

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It's Summertime and Our Patio is OPEN!Join us at Castelli's Restaurant at 255! Famous for our Talk-N-Chicfried chicken.

Summer is here so try our "lighter" menus selections.For more information please visit www.castellis255.com.

Dine in, carry out, outdoor patio, and gift cards.Open at 11 am Tuesday - Sunday for lunch and dinner.

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one

on o

ne

JohN KENNiNgtoN

John Kennington always dreamed of having a company that manufactures “widgets and gizmos,” and better yet, sharing that company with his sons. Today, he and his wife Barb and their sons, Matt and Chris, run Digital Power & Motion, which produces pitmasterIQ, a line of barbecue pit controllers that regulate the cooking temperature inside charcoal pits for precision smoking.

What meat does the IQ improve the most? Large, tough cuts that must be cooked for a long time at a low temperature. That’s difficult to do on a smoker because, as the fire burns down and the wind changes direction, the temperature in the smoker changes. The IQ takes care of this and adjusts the combustion air to regulate the cooking temperature. We cook 20-pound briskets for about 14 hours at a steady 225°F for melt-in-your-mouth tenderness. What inspired the product? I started Digital Power & Motion in 2007 to design and manufacture industrial-duty electronic controls. In 2009, I saw the first episode of BBQ Pitmasters. The teams were using automatic temperature controls for barbecue pits, and that reminded me of a trade publication I had seen years before where an engineer automated his cooker using a computer fan and an industrial temperature control. All kinds of things fell together at once – I had a company that could manufacture electronics and a passion for barbecue, so I decided to make my own barbecue temperature controller. By September 2010 we had 25 pitmasterIQ IQ110s to take to the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue in Lynchburg, Tennessee. How has business grown? In 2010, Alton Brown decided to end his show Good Eats and go out with a bang the next year with a few special episodes, including one on barbecue. To do research, he went to the barbecue competition Memphis in May in 2011. When he got there, this team had a [charcoal barbecue pit] with a IQ110 on it. He had an instant appreciation for this gadget. He ordered two of our units, and when an episode of his show Good Eats ran in August 2011, we got the last five minutes of the show. We just started selling a ton and it really hasn’t stopped since. Any challenges in developing the product? Getting it to function on such a diverse range of cookers, from a small Weber kettle to a 600-pound gravity feed Rebel. I don’t know how many hundreds of pounds of charcoal I burned and data-gathering I did. Are your customers professionals, home cooks or both? The restaurant customers are few, including Mike Johnson of Sugarfire Smoke House. It’s mostly backyard cooks. Our second-biggest customers are competition cooks who want to cook overnight without monitoring their pits.

owNEr/iNvENtor, pitmastEriQWRITTen By Valeria Turturro Klamm | PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman

pitmasterIQ 636.447.7974pitmasteriq.com

Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with John Kennington.


Shop,Wine, & Dine

Guide

Visit ColumbiaIllinois.com for upcoming event details.Mondays: Closed • Tues - Thurs: 11am - 8pmFri & Sat: 7am - 9pm • Sunday: 7am - 7pmFull Lunch & Dinner Menu Now Available!!

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Aunt Maggie© s Family Restaurant230 N. Main St. • 618-281-7894

Chateau La Vin119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117

Fabulous Finds315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1954

Fashion Attic128 S. Main St. • 618-281-7467

Imo’s Pizza1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552Joe Boccardi© s Ristorante117 S. Main St.• 618-281-6700

K.A.T. Jewelry Boutique & Gifts115 West Gundlach St.• 618-698-0270

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207 N. Main St. Suite 110 • 618-719-2017Our Coffee House Café

125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554Outdoor Decor

124B S. Main St. • 618-579-8172Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020

Roseberry Farms Antiques, Books & Collectibles603 N. Main St. • 618-520-0850

Tiny’s Pub & Grill602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977

June 8 (6-8Pm): Music At Metter Park Featuring Highway 15June 21: Radtour 20, 40 Or 60 Mile Bike Ride & Scavenger Hunt

June 22 (6-9Pm): Music At Metter Park Featuring Waterloo German Band

story and recipe by Crystal Stevens photography by Jennifer Silverberg Honey-yogurt Dipping Sauce

seed

to ta

ble

DanDelion FritterS witH


For me, the month of June evokes the nostalgia of growing up in the Midwest. the sights of summer are whimsical and inspiring; trees are green and vibrant, flowers are in full bloom and kites are soaring high in the sky. the instantly recognizable scents of barbecue and freshly cut grass are classic signs of summer. as a kid, the longer days meant more time outside, playing in the sprinkler, riding bikes well into the evening and chasing fireflies in the backyard. For me, these sights and scents are entangled into my childhood memories.

June 21, the summer solstice, the day on which we in the northern hemisphere enjoy the longest period of daylight, marks the textbook beginning of summer. While there is plenty growing on our farm this time

of year – including greens, scallions, radishes, peas and many others establishing roots – i feel an obligation to pay homage to wild edible weeds as well. after all, they’re another sign of the new season, too.

and in the world of wild edibles, dandelions are the celebrity. Making a wish while blowing dandelion petals into the early summer breeze is a memory most likely etched in all of our childhood recollections. they are found in almost every backyard in the Midwest. Little did we know, dandelion flowers are not only edible, but also highly medicinal and nutritious. the next time you get ready to mow the lawn, take pause first to pick yourself a bouquet of dandelion flowers, stems and all, and fry up some fabulous dandelion fritters.

Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mighty Mississippi River in Godfrey, Ill., where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, grow create inspire.

Dandelion Fritters with Honey-Yogurt Dipping SauceDandelions should only be gathered from areas that are not sprayed with chemicals. Leave 1 to 2 inches of the stem intact, rinse dandelions thoroughly with cold water and towel dry before cooking. For the dipping sauce, any vanilla yogurt can be substituted to taste.

Serves | 4 |

DanDelion Fritters ½ cup peanut oil ½ cup flour ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 1 pinch cinnamon 1 Tbsp ground flax meal ¼ cup water 24 dandelions, rinsed

Honey-yogurt Dipping sauce 1 cup vanilla bean Greek yogurt 2 Tbsp honey

| Preparation – Dandelion Fritters | in a small frying pan or quart-size saucepan over low heat, heat peanut oil.

in a shallow bowl, combine flour, breadcrumbs and cinnamon. in a separate bowl, mix flax meal and water.

turn heat up to medium-high. prepare a plate layered with about 6 paper towels to absorb oil once fritters are finished frying.

dip dandelion flowers (stems on) in the wet mixture, followed by the dry mixture. repeat a few times, until the flowers are evenly coated. gently place battered flowers into the pan of hot oil. place only 12 flowers at a time, leaving space between each flower. Fry for about 1 minute on each side, or until golden brown. Using stainless-steel tongs or a stainless-steel slotted spoon, transfer fritters from oil onto the paper towel-lined plate. serve fritters immediately to preserve their crispy texture.

| Preparation – Honey-Yogurt Dipping Sauce | in a small bowl, combine honey and yogurt. Whisk mixture together to combine and serve with fritters.


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The sweet, tart bite of fresh pomegranate would be an ideal flavor during early summer, wouldn’t it? Unfortunately, this captivating fruit won’t be at the market until autumn, which makes this the right time to meet pomegranate molasses.

What is it?

Pomegranate molasses isn’t molasses at all, but rather a simple reduction of juiced pomegranates and sugar. Open a bottle and you’ll instantly smell the unmistakable scent of sweet juice, but be prepared to pucker: One taste reveals its exceedingly sour notes.

What do i do With it?

Traditionally, pomegranate molasses is used in Middle Eastern dishes

such as mouhamara – a dip made with red bell peppers and ground walnuts – and in fesenjān, a Persian stew. Use it as a glaze for meats and vegetables, or add dimension to cocktails and sparkling water. If sweets are more your thing, swirl it into cake batter or frosting (or both) for a subtle flavor lift.

The following recipes are ideal for a warm summer night. The glazed chicken makes excellent use of the sour candy notes, while the salad uses the astringency as a counterpoint to sweet berries and creamy goat cheese crumbles. Visit feastSTL.com to find a third recipe using pomegranate molasses in a pomegranate-citrus compound butter. The butter highlights the intense sweetness of the molasses, and works beautifully with the light smokiness of grilled bread.

Shannon Weber is a writer, graphic designer and stay-at-home mom who writes the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com.


Pomegranate Molasses-Glazed Chicken ThighsServes | 4 |

¾ cup pomegranate molasses ¼ cup fresh orange juice 4 bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Glaze | In a medium bowl, whisk together pomegranate molasses and orange juice. Set aside.

Prepare a charcoal grill for high heat, and oil the grill rack. Generously season chicken with salt and pepper on both sides. Place chicken over the hottest part of the fire and cook for 10 minutes, flipping once.

Brush chicken with pomegranate glaze and transfer pieces to the cooler edge of the grill; continue to cook, glazing 1 to 2 more times until juices run clear, 20 to 24 minutes total.

Arugula Salad with Pomegranate VinaigretteServes | 4 |

Pomegranate Vinaigrette ¼ cup pomegranate molasses 2 Tbsp fresh lime juice 2 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated ½ tsp sea salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil

tangled arugula and summer Berry salad 6 to 8 large basil leaves, sliced into thin ribbons 12 to 14 mint leaves, sliced into thin ribbons pomegranate vinaigrette (see below) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 to 5 oz baby arugula 6 oz raspberries 6 oz blackberries 8 oz strawberries, tops removed, quartered 4 oz goat cheese, crumbled ½ cup pistachios | Preparation – Vinaigrette | In a medium bowl, whisk together pomegranate molasses, lime juice, ginger, salt and pepper until combined. Continue whisking while streaming in olive oil slowly until emulsified. Cover and store in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to allow flavors to combine.

| Preparation – Salad | In a large bowl, combine basil, mint and arugula. Add a few spoonfuls of vinaigrette and toss until coated, adding more as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

| To Serve | Divide arugula mixture and berries evenly over 4 plates. Top each salad with goat cheese and pistachios.

pomegranate molasses STOry AnD rECIPE By Shannon Weber PhOTOGrAPhy By Jennifer Silverberg


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The term gazpacho usually conjures the image of chunky, bright red tomato-based soup. That type of gazpacho, however, is the product of evolution. The original gazpacho was void of both vibrant color and tomatoes. White gazpacho, or ajo blanco, is the oldest form of Spanish gazpacho. It was a soup made to feed field

workers, consisting of water, bread and garlic – simple sustenance. Later, almonds were added to this common dish, and from there, it continued to evolve. We have created a slightly modernized ajo blanco with the addition of a few fresh ingredients, including cauliflower, English cucumber and homemade cucumber water.

White Spanish Gazpacho Serves | 6 |

CuCumber Water 1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced 5 cups cold water

GazpaCho 6 cups salted water ½ head cauliflower, cut into florets and blanched 2 slices white bread, crusts removed 1 cup almonds, blanched, slivered 3 cloves garlic 2 shallots, peeled and quartered ½ English cucumber, peeled and chopped 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 Tbsp sherry vinegar homemade cucumber water 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Garnish ¼ cup green grapes, thinly sliced into discs ¼ cup red or purple grapes, thinly sliced into discs ¼ cup English cucumber, thinly sliced into half moons ¼ cup almonds, sliced, toasted ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted ¼ cup fruity extra virgin olive oil

| Preparation – Cucumber Water | Cover sliced cucumber with 5 cups cold water. Allow to sit for a few hours to let water absorb cucumber flavor.

| Preparation – Gazpacho | In a medium saucepot over medium heat, bring 6 cups salted water to a boil. Add cauliflower florets and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, or until soft enough that if pressed against with the side of a fork, cauliflower easily mashes. Remove from heat and strain. Rinse cauliflower under cold water until cool. Allow excess water to drain off and set aside.

In a food processor, process bread into breadcrumbs. Add slivered almonds and process until similar in size to breadcrumbs. Continue this process by adding – in stages – garlic, shallots, cooked cauliflower, English cucumber and 2 tsp kosher salt. At this point, the mixture should look like a thick paste.

With the food processor running, add sherry vinegar, 2 cups drained cucumber water and extra virgin olive oil. Process until smooth and about as thick as milk or half-and-half. Taste to check seasoning; add salt if needed.

Remove mixture from food processor and place in a bowl or large pitcher, and cover. Refrigerate to allow flavors to develop. Serve, topped with sliced grapes, cucumber, almonds, pine nuts and a drizzle of fruity olive oil.

savor Flavors. White gazpacho can be made one or two days in advance, as the flavors will only intensify over time. If you prepare the gazpacho ahead of time, be sure to also prepare cucumber water, as you may need it to thin out the soup slightly before serving.

DrinK up. For more heavily infused cucumber water, prepare the water one or two days before preparing the soup. Also, don’t be afraid to make extra, as it’s a delicious and nutritious drink on its own. Other fruits and vegetables can also be used to make infused waters.

chef’s Tips

get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., June 25, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

Make the Meal:• White spanish Gazpacho• Salt-Baked Fish• Chicken and Chorizo Paella• Flan

learn more. In this month’s class, you’ll learn how to prepare savory salt-baked fish. You’ll also learn how to make chicken and chorizo paella, a classic Spanish rice dish traditionally made with meat and vegetables. For dessert, you'll learn how to make flan, a popular Spanish sponge cake with sweet or savory fillings.

Make The Meal

Story and reCiPe By Tory Bahn and Lucy Schwetye PhotograPhy By Jennifer Silverberg white spanish gazpacho

men

u op

tions

28 feastsTl.com JUN e 2014


.wcaf org sole survivor6148 Delmar Blvd, st. louis, mo

(across from the Pageant)open Tues-Sat 10-5PHONE: 314-690-3356

www.solesurvivorleather.com

Steve Rye, maker of fine leather goods is now

taking orders for his handmade, all -leather,

brass cobbled made-to-fit sandals.

oRDER yOUR Summer Sandals TODAY!styles available for both men & women

With steak this good.who needs a cleverheadline?

Located in the HistoricChase Park Plaza

For Reservations,Call 314.361.0900 orVisit www.tenderloinroom.com

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

story and recipe by Christy Augustin photography by Cheryl Waller angel food cake

Angel Food Cake with Crème AnglaiseServes | 12 |

Angel Food CAke (yields 1 10-inch cake) 1½ cups granulated sugar 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1½ cups egg whites ¼ tsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 2 Tbsp rainbow sprinkles (optional)

Crème AnglAise (yields 1½ quarts) 1 quart heavy cream pinch kosher salt 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 2 Tbsp granulated sugar, plus 1 cup 12 egg yolks

mACerAted rAspberries 1 pint fresh raspberries 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 1 Tbsp Chambord liqueur

| Preparation – Angel Food Cake | preheat oven to 325°F. combine ½ cup sugar with flour and sift three times. Using a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip egg whites, salt, lemon juice and vanilla on medium-high speed until foamy and beginning to hold shape. slowly pour remaining 1 cup sugar into the whipping whites and continue whipping until soft peaks form. turn mixer to low speed and gently pour in flour and sugar mixture. add sprinkles. Mix until fully combined. spoon batter into a 10-inch pan and smooth the top. bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until cake is golden brown. the cake should spring back when pressed gently and not leave a fingerprint. invert the pan immediately, to cool the cake completely, before removing from the pan. this important step will ensure your cake does not fall.

| Preparation – Crème Anglaise | in a heavy-bottomed saucepot, warm cream, salt, vanilla bean pod and seeds and 2 tbsp sugar.

in a medium-sized, heat-proof bowl, whisk remaining 1 cup sugar and egg yolks until pale yellow. When dairy mixture is almost to a simmer, remove from heat and ladle into yolks while whisking vigorously. return custard base to the pot and stir with a heat-proof rubber spatula over low heat. the sauce is done when it thickens slightly and leaves a path on the spatula when a finger is drawn across, about 5 minutes. do not let the custard boil. strain through a fine-mesh sieve and chill immediately.

| Preparation – Macerated Berries | combine all ingredients in a bowl and leave at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours. stir gently before serving.

| To Serve | Using a serrated knife, slice cake and plate each slice in a pool of crème anglaise. top with berries and serve.

one of the most american of cakes, angel food cake was invented in the 1880s, likely by a savvy baker who refused to let egg whites go to waste. these days, not many bakers are likely to have a dozen extra eggs lying around, but i’ve found the perfect excuse to utilize them in this delightfully airy summer treat.

My recipe is adapted from nick Malgieri’s Perfect Cakes. Malgieri is an advocate of using all-purpose flour instead of cake flour, and i wholeheartedly agree. My method, however, is unique – most sponge cake recipes call for a gentle folding in of the flour, but i have found that using a stand mixer and pouring the flour into the whipping meringue

is quick and easy. as long as you are careful not to over-mix the cake batter, the result will be heavenly. in total, this recipe calls for 12 large eggs – the egg whites are used in the angel food cake recipe and the egg yolks are used to make the crème anglaise.

a few tips about egg whites and meringues: Fat of any kind is an enemy of whipping whites. be extra cautious when cracking and separating your eggs to not get any yolk in your whites. the fresh lemon juice is a necessary acid to bolster the egg protein for a stronger meringue. additionally, anything that comes into contact with the whites should be clean and grease-free (never butter an angel food cake pan).

30 feastSTL.com JUne 2014

swee

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Youth SoccerFall ‘14 Sign Ups

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REGISTER ONLINE ATSCCYSA.ORGand come and playwith your friends!

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“Get a taste of NOLA without ever leaving STL.”

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Devoured the magazine and still

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WhaT To Look for :Heavy Metals. Cast-iron, steel, stainless-steel, aluminum, ceramic and other non-stick grill pans abound in stores and online. Cast-iron sizzled, smokin’ hot, and beat all comers for char, grill marks and for the thrill of high-heat grilling. Non-stick? Don’t waste your money.

GrillinG GeoMetrics. Circles, squares and rectangles – gauge the size and shape of the cooking surface based on what foods you want to grill.

stovetop specs. We tested these grill pans on a gas stove. Some grill pans aren’t suited for coil burners on electric stoves and can scratch glass cooktops, so research the product before you buy.

riGHt ribs. To grill fatty burgers or meats, look for higher peaks and deeper hollows on the grill surface. When the ribs are too low, food ends up half-fried and half-grilled, as the hollows fill up with juice and fat.

StovEtop Grill paNS WriTTeN by Pat Eby PhoTograPhy by Jonathan Gayman

CheCk out page

26!

gad

get a

-go-

go

No grill? Use a grill pan to make the chickendish in Mystery Shopper.

EmEriL PrE-SEaSonEd CaST-iron 10-inCh SquarE GriLL Pan

prosNice size, high sides and ridges, and a heavy weight. This pan has good looks and good lines. When it came up to temperature, the heat extended evenly to the edges and corners. The deep-ridged grooves prevent burgers from re-absorbing cooked fats. No stovetop splatter with this pan.

consemeril’s very heavy pan takes a long time to heat up enough to grill on. The fine taper on the ridge fins leaves anemic grill marks. as with any cast-iron pan, maintenance and cleanup remain taxing and essential.

$24.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

mi PuEbLo 13-inCh ComaL dE Lámina mETaL GriddLE

prosone of the oldest stovetop grills, the Mexican comal begged to be tested. The Mi Pueblo flat disk blackened fresh peppers and toasted dried ones. it grilled meats and veggies uniformly and quickly. a slight rounding in the center makes a nice hot spot for chars. edges slope up to keep foods corralled while you grill. This is an inexpensive introduction to cooking on a comal.

consThe huge label that covers most of the comal’s surface remained stuck after repeated attempts to remove it. heating the edges with a hair dryer loosened the sticky adhesive enough to peel the label off, but a nasty residue remained. Sustained gentle rubs with paper towels and canola oil finally freed it from the griddle.

$9.59; Supermercado El Torito, 2753 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District

ThE oriGinaL GrEEnPan Lima 11 inCh SquarE non-STiCk CEramiC GriLL Pan

prosThis big gray pan cleans up in a flash. The longer handle stays cool to the touch throughout the grilling process.

consNo grilling actually happens. Food cooks but doesn’t char, and grill marks are faint at best. The heat doesn’t reach the corners of the pan even with the gas burner at a higher heat setting. This pan should go right to a charitable resale shop.

$39.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com

CaST-iron rEvErSibLE GriLL/GriddLE

prosThis sweet pre-seasoned griddle fires up quickly, heats evenly and holds temperature even after food hits the pan. The griddle spans two burners with plenty of room to cook. Wide, flat ribs produce impressive grill marks on meat and veggies, especially on eggplant. The sizzle and pop sounds add to the grilling experience. overall best performance for a very modest price.

consMore cautions than cons. The griddle gets extremely hot and cools down slowly. handle with care. because it sits flat on the stove, it splatters the stovetop and adjoining counter. Cleanup takes elbow grease.

$19.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com

HocHstadter’s slow & low rock and rye

34 feaststl.com JUNE 2014

Style: American Pale Wheat Ale (5% abv)AvAilAble At: Fields Foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., Lafayette Square, fieldsfoods.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz cans)PAiringS: Drunken noodles• Blue cheese

Chocolate and peanut butter, eggs and bacon, hops and wheat – these are all great combinations that make people happy. There’s just something about hoppy wheat beers that makes them so enjoyable. The creaminess of the wheat blended with zippy, citrusy hops makes for a wonderfully refreshing beer. The addition of orange zest takes a standard wheat beer to a whole new level.

Style: Helles (5% abv)AvAilAble At: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $7.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles)

PAiringS: Chicago-style hot dog• Mozzarella

The “big beer” industry has made lager almost unseemly for some people. Pish posh, I say. A lager is the ultimate in craftsmanship for any brewery. In the case of New Belgium, they’ve created a crisp, clean beer with a slight spicy bitterness, thanks to the noble hops. The maltiness of this golden lager is slightly grainy but never overwhelming, keeping you coming back sip after sip.

Style: Saison (8.2% abv)AvAilAble At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $8.99 (500-ml bottle)

PAiringS: Chicken Provencal• Dutch Gouda

I think we can all agree that working with your hands is a satisfying experience. A saison was once a style made for Flemish farmhands, who needed something refreshing while working in the sun. Prairie Artisan Ales out of Tulsa, Oklahoma, created a higher ABV version of this classic style, but added a bit of brettanomyces, a genus of yeast, which helps to give it a funky farmhouse aroma and a spicy, malty body.

ProvenAnce: California (40% abv) AvAilAble At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $43.99try it: In a snifter after dinner

It makes sense that California, with its abundance of vineyards, would be home to distillers making superlative brandies, in addition to vintners creating fine wines. Case in point, Osocalis: one of the first craft distilleries to set up shop in the Golden State. The company touts its juice as the result of “Old World techniques, New World fruit.” This particular spirit is a blend of brandies made with varietals including Pinot Noir, Sémillon and Colombard grapes. The result is rich, complex and fruit-forward.

ProvenAnce: West Virginia (49.5 % abv)AvAilAble At: Randall’s Wines and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $36.99try it: Neat, with a splash of water, or as the base for a

classic bourbon cocktail

Yet another entry in the ongoing whiskey boom, Smooth Ambler Old Scout Bourbon Whiskey is sourced from distilleries across the country, and then taken to the Smooth Ambler headquarters in West Virginia, where it’s bottled. It’s high-rye whiskey, which means there’s plenty of spice to be had, as well as a full body with hints of fruits, vanilla and tobacco. There’s also a pricier 10-year version that’s spent a little more time in oak.

beer spiritsWRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney

The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

WRITTEN BY Matt Sorrell

When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife Beth for their company Cocktails Are Go.

top JUNE pICKS

ProvenAnce: Pennsylvania (42% abv)AvAilAble At: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $19.99try it: In a rocks glass with a big ice cube

Rock and Rye has often been referred to as the original bottled cocktail. In years past, barkeeps would take rye whiskey and add rock candy and a variety of available fruit to take the edge off of the sometimes rough frontier spirit and sweeten things up a bit. Hochstadter’s uses a recipe that harkens back to that rough-and-tumble era, which includes air-dried navel oranges and raw local honey. The taste is akin to a rye Old Fashioned, without the tang of bitters.

smootH ambler old scout bourbon wHiskey

on th

e sh

elf

osocalis rare alambic brandy

new belgium brewing co.’s summer Helles

4 Hands brewing co.’s contact HigH

Prairie artisan ales’ Prairie ale


Provenance: Jumilla, Spainavailable at: Randall’s Wines and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $9.99Pairings: Fresh guacamole• Oysters on the half shell • Ceviche

This wine is an oxymoron for a lot of people, simply because the Muscat (Moscatel in Spanish) grape is normally produced as a sweet wine. Like McManis Family Vineyards, this wine is also produced by a fourth-generation family, the Gil family, in the region of Jumilla in southeastern Spain. The Gils have fermented this delicious summer quaffer all the way through to dryness. The result is a refreshing wine with floral and white peach notes on the nose, but without the sticky sweetness that sometimes accompanies those aromas.

wineWRiTTen by Kyle Harsha

Kyle Harsha is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier with over 20 years’ experience in the food and wine industry. He drinks more wine than he probably ought to.

Juan GIl Dry MusCat 2013

Provenance: burgundy, Franceavailable at: Straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com; $19.49Pairings: Fish tacos• French fries• Chèvre

it’s cliché to say “buy a case, not a bottle” of wine, but in this case, it’s true. Alain normand, of Celtic and Viking ancestry, and his wife Sylvaine, from burgundy, produce this 100 percent Chardonnay at a formerly abandoned vineyard that they bought by paying the landlord in wine. About 3,000 cases are produced annually, and it is made with all native yeasts, resulting in a rustic flavor. it shows brilliant minerality, along with notes of yellow apple, white flowers and fresh straw.

DoMaIne sylvaIne et alaIn norManD MâCon la roChe vIneuse 2012

Provenance: Lodi and River Junction, Californiaavailable at: Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com; $11.99Pairings: Fresh blueberries• Sweet-style barbecue sauce • italian sausage flatbread with fennel

Just because the summer heat is upon us doesn’t mean we will completely stop drinking red wine. This inky, dark cousin to Syrah is a perfect example of a wine you can drink with a steak right off the grill, or you can put some fruit, brandy and ice into it and make killer sangria. This wine is produced by a fourth-generation family and hails from the areas of California in and around Lodi. The blueberry, blackberry and plum flavors cascade out of the bottle, into the glass and over the tongue.

MCManIs FaMIly vIneyarDs PetIte sIrah 2012

Moscow Mule Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan Gayman

the

mix

Moscow MuleServes | 1 |

2 oz vodka ¾ oz lime juice 4 oz ginger beer

| Preparation | combine all ingredients over ice in a copper mug or highball glass. Stir briefly before serving. For an exhilarating variation, add ½ oz simple syrup and 2 dashes angostura bitters. garnish with a mint sprig.

Bartender Knowledge: An Observation on Vodkathe Moscow Mule was the drink that popularized vodka in the U.S. before this drink was created, vodka wasn’t all that well-known, except in communities with a larger population of eastern europeans. that’s why if you look at cocktail or bartending guides printed prior to the 1950s, you’ll find very little, if any, cocktail recipes containing vodka. in The Savoy Cocktail Book, a revered cocktail guide published in 1930 that has more than 700 drink recipes, only a mere four cocktail recipes call for vodka. that’s not even 1 percent of the drink recipes included. herein lies the historical significance of this drink: it popularized vodka for the masses, starting with the hollywood aristocracy and bleeding over into mainstream america in the 1940s. it would take almost 30 years for vodka sales to outshine all other spirits in the U.S. – 1967 was the landmark year that vodka took the top spot in spirit sales. it hasn’t looked back since. then, in the 1980s, we were introduced to flavored vodkas. the market has been flooded with all sorts of flavors ever since.

36 feastSTL.com JuNe 2014

in today’s world, we look to hollywood – or other countries’ versions of it, like bollywood – for fashion and trends, including what they’re drinking. this is not a new concept. the human race has been doing this ever since there’s been an aristocracy or higher social echelon to emulate. in the 20th and 21st centuries, hollywood has been responsible for a multitude of now-iconic drinks: the modern cosmopolitan as seen on Sex and the City, the vodka martini (or Vesper, if you’re a cocktail geek like me) as seen in James bond films, and the old Fashioneds punctuating just about every scene on Mad Men. but the first drink to be popularized by hollywood was the Moscow Mule – and it wasn’t done through movies. it was done as one of the best marketing schemes across the bar top at cock ’n bull, a popular Los angeles watering hole for many of hollywood’s elite in the 1940s.

the three people laying claim to this drink are John g. Martin, a liquor and food distributor; Jack Morgan, the owner of cock ’n bull; and one

of Morgan’s girlfriends, who owned a copper business. Martin was trying to sell his newly acquired product, Smirnoff Vodka. Morgan was trying to rid his inventory of an abundance of cock ’n bull housemade ginger beer. and the girlfriend, well, she just wanted to sell copper. the three of them worked together to assemble a heavy pour of Smirnoff Vodka, with lime juice and a healthy dose of ginger beer, all combined in a nifty copper mug with an engraving of a kicking mule on it.

nowadays, this drink seems so simple, maybe even mundane. but back in the ’40s, not many people knew what vodka was. in fact, some of the earliest advertisements for vodka promoted it as “white whiskey” due to the popularity of whiskey. Whiskey was something with which the masses were familiar. also, no other bar was serving drinks in a cool, unique copper mug. new and creative, the Moscow Mule was all the rage, showing up on drink menus across the country – and it brought vodka along with it.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and a consultant at Sanctuaria.


“Dapper Flappers”

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Interactive Comedy Mystery Dinner TheaterIt’s the roaring Twenties, the era of wonderful nonsense, women can now vote, drink, becomeeducated, and even wear comfortable shoes. Norma Lee Vicious, leader of the Dapper Flappersbootleggin’ gang, is found murdered, someone’s gotta take the heaT!Join F.B.I. agent, Elliot Mess and Miss Betty Bustem as they lead us througha maze of legal maneuvering, political intrigue, and mob justice to findour KILLER. Play your part in this interactive comedy murder mystery whileenjoying a 4-course meal to DIE for! Make your reservations now;it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN!Call for Reservations 314-533-9830

Bring in this ad for $10 off per person.Valid through June 2014. Not Valid with groups.

there’s a neu store in town.Dau Neu is The Next Generation of Stylefrom the Dau Family. The Daus have beenin the furniture business in St. Louis since 1894.Dau Neu brings fresh contemporary style to theSt. Louis community. Ryan Dau and Cara Dau Allen,the 5th generation of the Dau family, are happyto present an exciting new look at Dau Neu.

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16966 Manchester Rd.• Wildwood • 636.405.2400 • dauneu.com

3200 Shenandoah Ave • St. Louis • 314.865.3345 • vangoghz.com

Kitchen Open until MidnightTuesday Night Flatbread Night - $6.00Flatbread with one topping choice of white or wheat crustMartini - $6.00 choose any from our menu

Thursday Night Pasta Night - $8.99½ Price Bottles of WineChoose from 4 different types of angel hair pasta (also offering Gluten-Free)Served with salad and garlic bread

Sunday Brunch Buffet - $12Try One of Our Speciality Cocktails

Tues – Fri 4pm – 1:30, Sat. noon – 1:30, Sun. 9 – 3

Historians and aficionados may debate the origins of the hamburger, but there is no arguing that this sandwich – the humble combination of meat, ground and formed into a patty and then nestled between halves of bread – is one of, if not the quintessential American dish. While the pairing of patty and bread has been the foundation of the hamburger for more than 100 years, dozens of regional variations and styles of preparation have evolved and intermingled to create a delicious tapestry, reflecting the geographic and ethnic diversity of the land it calls home. At the same

Written by Andrew Mark Veety | pHotogrApHy by Jennifer Silverberg

time, the reach of the hamburger is global; its visage that of a culinary ambassador to the rest of the world, the harbinger for all that is right and wrong with American cuisine.

the hamburger is utilitarian – a meal by, of and for a people whose destiny manifested itself into a state of constant movement. the hamburger is also democratic, capable of bringing together people from all walks of life and means – if only for a moment – as strangers and friends perch alongside one another on

counter stools and in worn booths, partaking in the solemn act of communing with a greasy, messy and soul-satisfying burger.

given the hamburger’s revered place in our collective culture – both culinary and popular – when it comes to a consensus on the idea of a “best burger,” debate rages with the fury of a Midwestern thunderstorm ripping across the landscape. passion will tend to do that. We know we’ve said it after polishing off a fantastic burger. the reality is that the idea of finding

the “best” of anything is so wrapped in finality that the act threatens to extinguish what makes finding “the best” a worthwhile endeavor, namely the journey and the search.

With this in mind, Feast set out to find 10 burgers – served up in pairs of two and grouped into five distinct styles – in and around St. Louis. the result is a list of hamburgers that were not only worth seeking out and reveling in, but that also reaffirm our belief that the hamburger is one of the finest dishes to be found in all the land.

Curious cooks should head to Deaver’s restaurant in north County, where the kitchen is turning out near-perfect burgers on a nightly basis. no-nonsense half-pound patties are seasoned with salt and pepper, charbroiled to temperature, and then customized with toppings. options abound from this neighborhood gem; however, until the day we finally master Deaver’s burger moves in our own kitchen, we’ll have a hard time passing up its classic burger, topped with earthy, funky mushrooms resting upon a bed of Swiss cheese.

2109 Charbonier road Florissant, 314.838.0002 deaversrestaurant.com


%PGInspired Food Culture MAY 2013

The “home” burger is just that, the burger you obsessively make at home. However, chances are the burger you make at home is at least, in part, a nod to a particular burger you’ve had while dining out

and aspired to recreate for friends and family. Home burgers can come in any style, however, they tend to excel at combining the basic elements and techniques that make for a great burger, yet sometimes challenge the home cook: a burger grind approaching an 80:20 protein to fat ratio; an aggressive use

of salt; a brown, flavorful crust – or grill marks from searing over heat – and spot-on temping.

Sugarfire Smoke House is so good at turning out killer barbecue, you may have missed the fact that the restaurant also excels at making top-shelf burgers. In fact, Sugarfire’s burgers

remind us a bit (in spirit) of the burgers found at Midwestern roadside barbecues, where patties

are grilled and then dredged through a pool of sweet and sticky barbecue sauce before serving – only much, much better. What should home chefs take note of before digging in? Thin, deftly grilled patties that are stacked tall upon request, topped

with adornments, speared so they don’t fall over and served up on trays covered with butcher’s

paper. And yes, bring on the barbecue sauce for this bad boy, as we think we’ve finally found a

burger worthy of its application.

Multiple locationssugarfiresmokehouse.com

%PG feastSTL.com MAY 2013

Make no mistake, Steve Gontram knew what he was doing when he opened 5 Star Burgers in Clayton (and now in Kirkwood, too) – and it shows. Gontram keeps the focus on patties of Midwest-raised beef, temped to perfection each and every time one is pulled from the grill. A menu of well-edited toppings shines, yet the toppings never steal the show from the burger they travel upon. Perhaps the most harmonious burger on the menu is the Breakfast of Champions – creamy hollandaise, a slow-cooked jam of roasted tomato and bacon, sliced American cheese and a sunny-side-up egg just waiting to run all over the whole package. This burger proves, once again, why breakfast is the most important meal of the day, no matter what time you eat it. Multiple locations5starburgersstl.com

Burger-concept restaurants can be misunderstood, perhaps guilty by association with the ubiquity of corporate concepts that punctuate the landscape. The reality is that these places

have nothing to do with the corporate homogeneity of fast-food and fast-casual concepts. Instead, they harken back to the golden age of hamburger culture, when beloved burger joints served up well-crafted hamburgers made with high-quality ingredients, cooked up with a keen

attention to detail and served to the public at reasonable prices.



Fans of the Burger Ink food truck celebrated the opening of The Tattooed Dog in Wentzville

earlier this year, and for good reason: It captures the cool calm of a classic burger joint and

delivers on the goods, especially when it comes to its Jalapener burger. The burger rocks a

potent combination of spice from jalapeño jelly, pepper Jack cheese and a savory roasted garlic aïoli, each of which may contrast and compete

for your attention at first, but quickly mingle together to form one of the finest sauces we’ve

seen added to a hamburger in a long time.

403 Luetkenhaus Blvd., Wentzville, 636.887.2178

facebook.com/TheTattooedDog


The best seat (if you can get it) at Carl’s Drive In in Brentwood is right next to the flattop griddle, where burgers are smashed, then assembled – while still cooking, mind you – before being served up to waiting guests who are busy sipping from frosted mugs of homemade root beer. A single patty works well for first timers and kids, but in-the-know diners tend to order doubles or triples to ensure every bite is full of crispy, caramelized, smashed-burger goodness.

9033 Manchester Road, Brentwood 314.961.9652

Smashed burgers – also known as thin or diner-style, depending on where you are in the country – are creatures unto themselves, the product of a counterintuitive process to making a hamburger; balls

of meat are tossed onto a rocket-hot griddle and then unceremoniously pressed flat until a crisp latticework of crust forms and a deep, almost candy-like flavor develops. It’s a combination that plays

decidedly well with a sweet condiment, namely, a hearty squeeze of tomato ketchup.



If stacking patties upon patties is your thing, then a trip down Interstate 55 to Crystal City

is required to partake of the Quadzilla from Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In. Burgers at Gordon’s

are smashed to a quarter-inch thickness and then, upon request, laid over a bed of cooking

onions that release a heady, sweet perfume into the burger as it finishes searing. The process

creates a noticeable doming effect in the patties as they cook, that lasts until they are stacked

one, two, three and, finally, four high and topped with the most classic of drive-in burger

combinations: sliced American cheese, sour pickles, crisp lettuce and a generous helping of

ketchup and mayonnaise.

500 Bailey Road, Crystal City 636.937.9678

Bite into Gordon’s

Stoplight Drive-In’s Quadzilla in

the June episode of Feast TV!


It is best to arrive at Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield around 11am when the restaurant opens, and grab a seat at the bar before the dining room fills up with a well-heeled lunchtime crowd. The kitchen offers up a roster of high-end burgers, but diners should feel confident opting for the appropriately named Classic: a thick patty of prime steak – ground cuts of strip, rib, tenderloin and brisket – mixed with sugar-cured pork belly that is expertly grilled to temperature, and then sandwiched between halves of tender brioche.

16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684 anniegunns.com

Fancy burgers may be the overachievers of the burger world, but dining out would be a bit

less interesting if they didn’t exist. The hallmarks of these gourmet hamburgers are custom-blended patties of house-ground prime cuts of beef and toppings that range from the classic

to the downright exotic. And the kicker? The elements that make up a fancy burger are usually painstakingly, lovingly made in-house – more than justifying their sometimes lofty price tags.



The hamburger at Truffles in Ladue is delivered tableside on a cutting board rimmed with

a reservoir that was designed for catching drippings of carved meat, or perhaps for

foreshadowing just how much juice and fat this gourmet hamburger of prime beef throws

off as it is eaten. The end result is a burger that you blissfully chomp away at in a rapid

succession of bites, a manner that may seem a bit undignified for such a refined setting.

That is until you look up and notice your server nodding in knowing agreement, assuring you

that you are, indeed, doing it right.

9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com


The long-revered pub burger at O’Connell’s Pub in Shaw is not only an institution, it is a thing of beauty; this thick patty of “chopped sirloin,” liberally salted and grilled to a crusty perfection, carries the scent of the thousands upon thousands of burgers that graced the flames of the Gaslight Square throwback before it. This is a burger-lover’s hamburger, served up on a shamrocked and monogrammed paper plate, and at its best when adorned sparingly with a schmear of mayonnaise, thick slices of raw onion and tangy Cheddar cheese.

4652 Shaw Ave., Shaw 314.773.6600

Pub burgers are the stuff of weekday nights, when time is better spent digging into a hamburger

that is short on pretense and big on flavor than dedicated to the preparation of a post-work meal. For many, great pub burgers are the dominion of a favorite neighborhood joint, an association of familiarity, akin to donning a favorite cozy sweatshirt. However, if you eat enough of them, you’ll

agree that pub burgers are far from being created equal.



In stark contrast to – but not in the shadow of – the burger from O’Connell’s is the unabashedly

gratuitous barnyard of a hamburger known affectingly as the Hog Burger from Quincy Street

Bistro in Princeton Heights. A mix of beef, pork and chef Rick Lewis’ housemade bacon are

ground daily and formed into a potent delivery device for a nest of sweet, caramelized onion and a slathering

of pimento cheese, which oozes out the sides and onto your hands with each bite. Extra

napkins are a must.

6931 Gravois Ave., Princeton Heights

314.353.1588 quincystreetbistro.com

Often overlooked, the bun has the important job of holding things together from the first bite to the

last. The classic is a roll of enriched white bread, but German kaiser and French brioche, well-toasted, are

perfect burger bun options, too.

Traditionally, the patty is ground beef, ground from trimmings – when burgers are really good, the patty

is a custom blend of prime cuts – and grilled or seared over high heat. The best hamburgers approach (or

exceed) a ratio of 80:20 percent meat to fat, and are seasoned aggressively with salt right before cooking.

Lettuce, onion, pickles and tomato are standards, but the options for topping a burger are only limited by

the imagination. A general guideline is that a topping is not the star of the burger (that is the patty), but

should add to the whole by playing along with all the parts, hitting notes of sweet, sour, savory and spicy.

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51Inspired Food Culture JUNE 2014

PICTURED, LEFT AND ABOVE: Racks of ribs stacked in the smoker; Mike Emerson (center), owner of Pappy’s Smokehouse, with Mike Mills.

Barbecue’s status atop the sushi and street tacos of the world stems from one thing: its simplicity. Barbecue doesn’t demand a laundry list of ingredients; it doesn’t take a complicated set of directions and procedures that only a CIA-trained chef could convincingly accomplish. All barbecue is, in its soul, is meat, wood and fire – more specifically and more commonly, beef or pork, wood and fire. But if barbecue legend Mike Mills hands you a chicken wing as his first offering of barbecue, you make damn sure to eat it.

Murphysboro, Illinois, is a small town. It’s the kind of town that highways tend to ignore; the kind where unique businesses – say, a combination hardware and pet store – can not only exist, but survive. According to the 2010 census, 7,970 people call Murphysboro home. And amidst the stores peddling goldfish and Allen wrenches, right on 17th Street, sits 17th Street Barbecue.

in the pantheon of food culture, you’d be hard pressed to find anything as universally popular and beloved as barbecue.

WRITTEN By Brandon Chuang PhOTOgRAPhy By Gregg Goldmanmike mills the smoke eatersvs.


PICTURED: Amy Mills seasoning fresh cuts of meat with her

father’s signature Magic Dust dry rub seasoning; Mike Mills

cleaning chicken in one of 17th Street’s kitchens.

If you were driving down 17th Street in Murphysboro, there’s a fair chance you’d gloss over 17th Street Barbecue, possibly passing it up for the remodeled Dairy Queen up the street. The building itself isn’t much to look at: a basic rectangular structure with grayed siding and neon beer signs glowing in the windows. It’s honestly not that impressive. But what’s inside the building is: a smoke-ringed combination of ribs, brisket, pork shoulder and more, which many people far more accredited than you or I consider to be the best barbecue in the country.

If you ever get the chance to meet Mike Mills, it’s with absolute certainty that you will be fed. Within 10 minutes of shaking the man’s hand, he’s placed a chicken wing in mine.

“I want you to eat that straight,” says Mills in his graveled tone. Even his voice is smoked – a result, surely, of the Marlboro Reds saddled comfortably in his front shirt pocket. “See what it tastes like fresh out of the smoker.”

I do. It tastes like chicken, albeit pretty good chicken.

Mills then grabs another chicken wing out of the smoker, this time shaking on some of his

proprietary seasoning rub. Magic Dust, he calls it. “Try it now,” he commands.

I do. It tastes like better chicken.

Grabbing yet another wing from the smoker, Mills places it onto a pan and tells me he’ll be right back. He returns to say he’s placed it on a grill out back. In a few minutes, a grill-marked wing makes its way back to me – my third, and I haven’t even been in Murphysboro for 30 minutes. “Try that.”

I do.

Goddammit.

“That,” says Mills, smiling. “That’s what we do here. We build flavors.”

If you literally look past the humble exterior of 17th Street, you’ll see a giant warehouse. It’s hard to miss, because it spans the entire length of the block. Inside of this warehouse, you’ll find many things, all affiliated with Mills’ barbecue kingdom. The front houses office space for Mills and his staff, led by his daughter and co-owner of the business, Amy. Further in are two large banquet rooms with giant light-up signs that spell out

ThaT’s whaT we do here. we build flavors.


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Applebee’s1377 Highway K (636) 272-2700

Bar Thirteen221322 Sunburst Drive (636) 272-6080

B. Halls Family Grill3782 Monticello Plaza (636) 300-8002

Bleachers Bar & Franks454 Highway P (636) 294-9777

Blue Sky Café and Bar9999 WingHaven Blvd. (636) 561-6919

Brewskeez4251 Keaton Crossing (636) 329-0027

Buffalo Wild Wings2352 Highway K (636) 379-3994

Culpeppers4401 Highway K (636) 442-5053

Ethyl’s Smokehouse8505 Vets. Mem. Pkwy. (636) 978-7755

Hobo’s on P468 Highway P (636) 294-7220

JJ’s Restaurant200 Fort Zumwalt Sq. (636) 978-1737

K.T.’s Sports Bar & Restaurant407 Sonderen Street (636) 294-7770

Llywellyn’s Pub7434 Village Center Dr. (636) 625-8655

Madison’s Cafe2974 Highway K (636) 978-7355

McGurk’s Public House108 South Main Street (636) 978-9640

Mike’s Grill + Tap2447 Highway K (636) 240-0633

Motley’s Pub & Grub2003 Highway K (636) 978-8090

Moudy’s Bar and Grill2151 West Terra Lane (636) 639-8844


words and phrases like “SQUEAL” and “PRAISE THE LARD.” Upstairs is storage space – tons and tons of storage space – filled with everything from football helmets to old cash registers. “I’m not a hoarder,” Mills jokes. “I’m a collector.” In another corner sit trophies, all collected from barbecue competitions past – and it’s not even all of them. The man has won so many barbecue awards he sincerely doesn’t know what to do with them all, so he shoves them into storage next to cases of never-opened jock straps (“My brother bought a sporting goods store that was going out of business,” says Mills).

But in the center of all this… stuff, on the ground floor, in the heart of the warehouse, sit Mills’ tools: three giant built-in smokers the size of Fiats.

They’re each named, of course. Black Betty is the massive smoker in the front kitchen (yes, Mills has several kitchens), and he’s got two more in the back kitchen: Smokey and Bandit, naturally. This doesn’t include his armada of mobile smokers: the stand-alones and pull-behinds that he arms for various off-site events. Touring his facility and seeing smokers everywhere, there’s no telling exactly how many smokers the man possesses, but it’s easily in the high teens, if not higher. “I’ve got a few,” he chuckles.

Mills has been around smokers and barbecue for what seems like forever. Having grown up in a family that loved to barbecue, Mills took to it early on. “I grew up with barbecue,” he says. “I can remember standing in my crib, my dad outside barbecuing. I

... three giant built-in smokers the size of fiats.

PICTURED: Mike Mills adds pieces of wood to one of the restaurant’s

large smokers; The entrance to 17th Street has fun with its

signboard; Mills checks on meat cooking in the smoker from inside

one of 17th Street’s kitchens.


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would holler until my mom came in and raised the blind so I could see what he was doing. I could smell the smoke.” Having grown up in Murphysboro, Mills took to making barbecue the Murphysboro way. “We have orchards all around us,” explains Mills. “So when I needed wood, I used the wood we had a lot of.”

Though Mike Mills might not admit it, he’s a driving factor behind why you can find apple, wild cherry and other fruitwoods in nearly any store that sells barbecue-related paraphernalia. Before Mills, the popular woods of choice for most pit masters were heavier, smokier woods like mesquite and hickory. The lighter woods that Mills was using were looked down upon – smoke, after all, is flavor. “I’ve always thought of smoke as an ingredient,” says Mills. “To me, it’s just part of the equation. You still want to taste the meat.”

While people might have shunned Mills’ fruitwood barbecue at first, they didn’t for long – especially

when he started winning barbecue competitions with his team, Apple City Barbecue. However, for most, only one competition matters.

The World Championship BBQ Contest occurs over a single weekend every year during Memphis in May, a month-long festival of music, food and culture in Memphis, Tennessee. While the festivities are many and varied, nearly everyone identifies Memphis in May with the barbecue competition. If it’s any indication of its import, the competition also goes by the nickname “the Super Bowl of Swine.” Some of the best pit masters from around the country come to Memphis to compete year in and year out. Few win.

Mills has won seven times.

It’s part of the reason Mills has a Rolodex of barbecue restaurants under his command, including two restaurants in Las Vegas (Memphis Championship Barbecue), and two in southern

Illinois (17th Street in Murphysboro and Marion, respectively). Originally, Mills was uncertain about expanding to Marion. “As an excuse, I told them I couldn’t come because they didn’t have a 17th Street,” admits Mills about the situation. So the mayor of Marion built a 17th Street for Mike Mills and his barbecue.

The praise and accolades keep coming for Mills. Bon Appétit magazine anointed 17th Street Barbecue as having the best ribs in America. Food & Wine magazine recently said it has the best wings (yes, those wings) in America, too, which is odd, considering 17th Street Barbecue is, well, a barbecue joint. But that’s when you realize, 17th Street Barbecue isn’t really just a barbecue joint. That’s when you realize the place, until recently, didn’t even have the word “barbecue” in its name. And you start to look a bit closer.

You see the Formica tables and the old oaken bar,

but you also see the pimento cheese appetizer on the menu that’s made from scratch. You notice that even though Mike Mills gave you ribs, he gave you much more in wings and fried pickles and pork steaks – things that normally do not a barbecue restaurant make. And finally, now, as Mills lovingly guilts you into eating yet another piece of food, with his primary argument being temperature loss (“eat it before it gets cold”), you realize that Mike Mills isn’t so much a world champion barbecuer, but a man at peace.

In this humble location in a humble town of 7,970 people, Mike Mills has quietly built a culinary giant, a barbecued colossus built on golden 8-foot-tall trophies. His talents have brought him everywhere from Memphis to Manhattan, where he helped shape the vision for Blue Smoke, the barbecue restaurant owned by famous restaurateur and St. Louis native, Danny Meyer. “Mike’s baby backs put a huge smile on my face,”

Mike Mills has quietly built a culinary giant, a barbecued colossus built on golden 8-foot-tall trophies.

says Meyer. “I’ve never seen anyone have an argument while eating them.”

Today, Mills continues to run his successful restaurants across the country. He cultivates his ever-growing mail-order business and nurtures the company’s barbecue consulting agency, OnCue Consulting, all in partnership with his daughter/PR director, Amy. Tomorrow, or in the very near future, he plans on opening a sauce-bottling facility next door to the restaurant and warehouse in Murphysboro, adding several much appreciated jobs to the small community. “I’m from here, so I want to give back to here. I want to see my town succeed.”

In fact, Mills says he wants to see everyone succeed, his barbecue competition included. “I don’t want you to open across the street from me, but there’s room enough for everyone.” Granted, this is a bit like LeBron James saying that it’s

cool for you to play basketball too, but still; the important thing is that Mike Mills actually believes what he’s saying. He welcomes new barbecue restaurants with open arms – hell, his barbecue consulting agency’s main purpose is to help start new barbecue restaurants that aren’t his. And when he feeds you fried pickles and pimento cheese and pork steaks instead of the barbecue you expected when you came here, he knows exactly what he’s doing.

For Mills, there are no more fights to fight, mainly because he’s won them all. In the end, Mike Mills knows that you know he knows barbecue. He doesn’t have to tell you or make you eat it. You want to eat it. So go, fill up on all the non-traditional items at 17th Street. Try all the non-17th-Street barbecue joints that you want. Sample their sauces. Eat the smoke. You’ll still come back for the ribs and chicken and anything else Mike Mills and company come up with. They all do.

The barbecue kingdom that Mike Mills oversees wasn’t built on meat alone. The man has crafted his signature flavors based on three time- and patron-tested cornerstones.

fruitwood. While Mills’ explanation for why he first began using wood from apple, peach and other fruit trees is humble, the results speak for themselves. Extruding far less smoke than more traditional, harder woods, fruitwoods lend a much milder flavor to smoking, meaning the pork on your plate still tastes like pork.

magic dust. The ingredients list of Mills’ all-purpose seasoning reads like a free-verse poem for the hungry: salt, sugar, paprika, secret spices. What it tastes like, is barbecue in dry form: a smoky salinity that sees itself onto everything from brisket and ribs to chicken wings and pork rinds.

barbecue sauce. Mills’ barbecue sauce is as old as, if not older than, the war – as in the World War. The first one. What began as a passed-down family recipe, which saw his mother selling it by the gallon to feed her five children, has become its own self-sustaining industry, driving the creation of a bottling facility next door to Mills’ Murphysboro restaurant so his team can make the Memphis in May-winning recipe on-site.

PICTURED, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Mike Mills surrounded by one-third of his trophies; A spice shaker filled with Magic Dust, Mill’s dry rub seasoning; Sliced beef sausage links covered in 17th Street’s barbecue sauce; Pulled pork sandwich; 17th Street’s wings, named the best in the country by Food & Wine magazine.

Travel to Murphysboro, Illinois, and meet Mike and Amy Mills in the June episode of Feast TV.

Building an EmpirE

Written by Shannon Cothran and Liz Miller | photography by Jonathan Gayman

brilliant yellow-orange

flames dance just above the charcoal pit,

a season’s worth of ash and embers collecting in the pan below. The heat coming off the

grill creates a haze almost like a watercolor painting, a phenomenon that occurs when cool and warm air mingle as one. If you get

too close to the pit, waves of smoke will make your eyes water and the back of your throat sting. The air is thick and hazy, filled with the

aroma of burning wood and cooking meat.

For many, this conjures memories of warm summer weekends spent outdoors, backyard

barbecuing with family and friends around the grill, cold drinks on ice and ball games playing on the radio. Far across the country and here in St. Louis, it connects people to the shared

experience of charcoal grilling.

It just so happens that Missouri is the No. 1 producer of charcoal in the U.S., with almost

a century of history tied to the industry. Deftly entrepreneurial, American industrialist

Henry Ford opened a charcoal plant in Belle, Missouri, in the early 1900s as a way to make

money from the leftover wood scraps from his Model T plants. Charcoal not only plays a role

in our region’s history, it connects us

more broadly to cultures and food traditions across the globe.

In the grilling world, two types of charcoal exist: lump and briquette. Lump is traditionally made with 100 percent wood that’s charred in a kiln for several days to cook out sugars, tars, liquors – anything that isn’t carbon. Briquette charcoal is made with a combination of sawdust, char dust, an ignition or lighting agent, starch as a binding agent and an ash-whitening agent such as lime. Much of it is filler.

“Briquettes have a place; it was a genius way to get rid of sawdust. But [grilling] aficionados don’t use them,” says Jonathan Heslop, the developer and owner of The Saint Louis Charcoal Co., producers of Rockwood Charcoal. Rockwood bags are filled with large, fist-sized pieces of shiny black charcoal that look like a cross between wood and a semi-precious stone. Each piece is a different size and shape, in sharp contrast to the uniformity of pressed briquettes.

It’s no surprise that Heslop has never been a fan of briquettes for grilling, because, in all things, he is a purist. He does not drink alcohol, soda, coffee or tea. He does not smoke. He is intent on putting only natural things in his body. He is

also something of a Renaissance man. A helicopter pilot by trade, he is also a real estate agent, a father of four, husband, barbecue enthusiast, martial artist and, most recently, the man responsible for the newest wave of Missouri charcoal. Heslop began his journey toward charcoal-making because, when he wants something, he gets it – even if that means manufacturing it himself.

Heslop shares only one of his many interests with his father, Jim: grilling. They’ve been bonding over grills since Heslop’s childhood, and though they’ll grill anything, burgers are their favorite, followed closely by seafood. Years ago, Heslop’s father returned home to St. Louis from a business trip in Atlanta with a Big Green Egg in tow. Big Green Eggs are kamado-style grills, which are Japanese-inspired, egg-shaped cookers made of ceramic that allow cooks to use one device for cooking with very high or very low temperatures. At that time, “nobody knew what they were,” says Heslop. “It needed lump charcoal. And we had a hard time finding a good source for it – a consistent source.”

Then, and now, the Heslops were true barbecue connoisseurs. They wanted charcoal that would impart just the right amount of smoky flavor into

their meat every time they grilled, which is difficult to find. The majority of

lump charcoals are made from many different

types of

wood, which offer a different smoke flavor and intensity with each bag.

They had a good source for a short time in the early 2000s, and whenever they spotted their favorite brand in a store, they would buy every bag. Fortuitously, several years ago, Heslop was flying a helicopter over southern Missouri and, by a stroke of luck, flew over the plant that made his favorite charcoal. “I started buying it off the dock, straight from the source,” he recalls. “I was buying it for much cheaper than from the store. This was about 2007 or 2008. I’m buying it for my dad and I, and suddenly [for] neighbors and co-workers, because everyone loved it.”

Soon, Heslop’s annual trips to stock up on charcoal became monthly, then weekly treks, and before long, there were so many people interested in using the charcoal, he needed a truck to haul it all back to St. Louis. It took extra time and effort, but Heslop was simply grateful to have a source of quality lump charcoal to fuel his grill. Abruptly, it all ended when a national company bought and closed the plant.

Heslop was back to square one, but this time he came up with a different plan.

“I needed another source,” says Heslop. “I had enough retail interest from people who contacted me and wanted a bag and a brand. I thought it was a good investment, so I started a charcoal company.

“I wanted that consistent, neutral smoke flavor, so I could control the flavor, and I could add my own woods myself to control the amount of smoke. I wanted a high-carbon charcoal that I could control the heat and longevity of. Folks like me, that use the Green Eggs and the kamado-style smokers, want big chunks of charcoal. Because of the way the charcoal settles in those things, we have to have big pieces. Some brands, you get large pieces in one bag, and the next bag is pea gravel because they stack it too high and crush the charcoal.”

With Rockwood, Heslop not only has his own supply of consistent, top-quality lump charcoal,

he’s also found a new mission in life: to make Missouri synonymous with good

charcoal, just as California is synonymous with

raisins and Idaho with potatoes.

Someday, he


says, he wants to hear people refer to Missouri charcoal the same way they refer to Wisconsin cheese, Washington apples and Florida oranges.

Missouri already manufactures three-quarters of the barbecue charcoal used in the U.S., and considering the state’s rich history with producing charcoal, Heslop knows he doesn’t have far to go to get Missouri charcoal on the map. It’s all a question of producing the best charcoal around.

“What we try to concentrate on is making sure the product is consistent,” says Heslop. “There are a lot of other brands where you open the bag, and you don’t know if you’re getting what came from a good kiln or a bad plant. Ours comes from the same trees, same kilns – you know you’re going to get the same product every time. There’s a lot of good charcoal out there, but we get it to [consumers] the same every time.”

Rockwood is different from other lump charcoals because of how it is manufactured. Its charcoal begins with scrap pieces of Missouri hardwood, including oak, maple and hickory. This wood comes from trees harvested by other companies for furniture or flooring, and anything that can’t be used by those companies,

like the knots and edges, is purchased by The Saint Louis Charcoal Co. This wood is taken to a plant located in Shannon County, Missouri, where, after drying for about six months, roughly one dozen employees load it into a kiln that looks like a munitions bunker from a World War II movie. Workers light a low fire underneath the hardwood and close the doors of the kiln. Small air holes up and down its sides allow it to regulate oxygen. After four or five days, they extinguish the fire and the charcoal is left to cool for another few days. After careful sifting, the large pieces are bagged, carefully stacked and distributed, and soon after, used in grills across the region.

Rockwood Charcoal is also an environmentally friendly product. The Saint Louis Charcoal Co. complies with EPA standards by using a chimney stack with an afterburner to burn any particulates, so the smoke from its kilns is clean and has low odor. Also, Heslop says, “We don’t take down a single tree. We take our product from something that would otherwise be thrown away. Then, everything we don’t use gets sold to a briquette company. The only trash left over is the ash, which can be composted. Even the bag is purposely made with soy ink, so when you use it to start your fire, it’s not going to produce a weird smell.”

The company’s charcoal is made using

these green methods, “because it’s ultimately going into your body,” explains Heslop. The purist in him wouldn’t have it any other way. “You wouldn’t cook over gasoline. Why would you cook over a briquette when the natural product is right there? And the natural product performs so much better than briquettes.” Heslop says he’s not a polluter, but neither is he a staunch environmentalist: “Lump charcoal [is] just where it’s at,” he shrugs. “We didn’t set out to produce a green product, but in this case, it just worked out that the best product is fully green. And that makes it all the much better that we can produce the best product with a low carbon footprint.”

Naked Whiz, a website founded by Doug Hanthorn, has done for charcoal what Consumer Reports does for cars. On nakedwhiz.com, Rockwood Charcoal reigns supreme, rated No. 1 for more than a year – almost as long as the product has been on the market. Hanthorn writes about Rockwood: “What we have here is a charcoal that…has very mild smoke but burns forever with little ash. You get a charcoal that doesn’t overpower food, allowing you to control the smoke flavor yourself, with chips or chunks, and a charcoal that burns a good long time, producing little ash and delivering good value for [your] money.”Many avid readers of Naked Whiz

can’t get Rockwood Charcoal in their area, despite the company’s distribution network in locations across the country. These charcoal aficionados band together to buy Rockwood Charcoal as a group, getting a shipping quote from Heslop, which reminds him of the hoops he used to jump through to procure his favorite charcoal.

As he delves into this new industry, Heslop isn’t just out to make a dime; he’s also happy to have a product he loves to use and to be a part of something bigger: the tradition of home barbecuing.

“While it [can be a] pain to ship small orders [now], it’s the spirit. It’s what I did and what I need to do to help [people] get good charcoal. I made some of my best friends through charcoal,” Heslop says. “I delivered charcoal to their houses, and then I’m going to their weddings – and they’re at mine. Charcoal brings people together [and] I help facilitate that. It’s an honor to help facilitate that.”

Take a trip to the plant and see

how the charcoal is made in the

June episode of Feast TV.


where to buy Rockwood Charcoal is available for purchase in select retailers throughout the region and country – from Colorado to Texas to New York – as well as on the company’s website, rockwoodcharcoal.com. In the greater St. Louis area, more than 20 local stores sell Rockwood Charcoal, including the 10 featured below.

baumann’s fine meats, 8829 Manchester Road, Brentwood, 314.968.3080, baumannsfinemeats.com fields foods, 1500 Lafayette Ave., Lafayette Square, 314.241.3276, fieldsfoods.com john’s butcher shoppee, multiple locations, johnsbutchershoppee.com kenrick’s meats & catering, 4324 Weber Road, Affton, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com local harvest grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com mateker’s meat market & catering, 11642 Concord Village Ave., Sappington, 314.842.4100, matekers.com randall’s wines and spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com smokehouse market/annie gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com sonnenberg landscaping materials and supplies, 1460 Frank Scott Parkway W., Belleville, Illinois, 618.398.0838, sonnenberglandscaping.com straub’s, multiple locations, straubs.com

the great grilling challenge with rockwood charcoal

Before grilling with Rockwood Charcoal at home, I had no experience grilling with lump charcoal. In the past, I had always piled briquettes inside the grill and blanketed them in lighter fluid, before striking a match. So I was unprepared when I read the lighting instructions for Rockwood, which call for a bit more work. The Saint Louis Charcoal Co. believes in cooking over only all-natural components, meaning no lighter fluid. Its website provides lighting instructions for Rockwood Charcoal, which, because it does not contain chemical additives to help it ignite, needs special equipment for lighting. There are different ways for lighting the charcoal in different grill styles. My Weber grill needs a traditional chimney starter, an electric starting coil or an all-natural starting stick.

After meeting with Jonathan Heslop, I couldn’t wait to use his product. After picking up three pounds of chicken drumsticks and roasted garlic olive oil at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, I was ready to get the experiment underway.

Once the lumps were lit in the grill, the charcoal burned slowly and hot, glowing bright white with a red beating heart at the center of the pile. The smoke was very mild and light-colored, almost clear, and it didn’t sting my eyes or char the back of my throat the way that burning briquettes does. The aroma of the charcoal burning is difficult for me to describe, as it’s unlike anything else I’ve experienced. The scent of pure, burning carbon was like a diluted version of a campfire and made my mouth water before any food had touched the grate.

The meat also cooked differently. The heat must have been consistent and even, because my roasted-garlic-oiled and salted drumsticks cooked evenly, and were tender and done on the inside, with crispy, crunchy skin on the outside. The smoke from the charcoal saturated the meat thoroughly, giving it a mild woodsy taste. And cleanup was a breeze, as there was very little ash left over. After eating meat grilled over Rockwood Charcoal, I can proudly say that I’m a lump charcoal convert.

WRITTeN BY Shannon Cothran


Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market and Roth Living.

In June, we celebrate the best of summertime eating. Head down to southern Missouri for a rare look at how Rockwood Charcoal goes

from 100-percent hardwood to your barbecue pit. Grab a stool at Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In, where generations of customers have enjoyed the same

menu since 1948. Go into the pits with 17th Street Barbecue’s Mike Mills and

get a step-by-step look at how he makes barbecue magic, then find out what it

was like for 17th Street Barbecue’s Amy Mills to grow up with a barbecue legend

and how she got into the family business.

Watch the upcoming June episode on the Nine Network (Channel 9) at 2pm on Sat., June 7, and 1pm on Mon., June 9. Feast TV will also air on the nineCREATE channel

periodically throughout the month.

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the square beyond

compare

Written by Thomas Crone photography by Jonathan Gayman

provel is a distinctly

“st. louis taste.” it’s an exclusive

style found, ahem, squarely in our region, atop the

thin-crusted pies that define

imo’s pizza.


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Religion and politics, for example, are best left for friend-only settings. Discussing

how to raise children and pets is also a general “no-no.” And while those might

be universals, within any particular region, there are certain topics that can cause a bit of disturbance.

In St. Louis, there’s a reasonably predictable list of conversation

starters and stoppers. Whether you’re in the confines of a smoky

bar, gathered around a table at a church’s trivia night or standing

along the sidelines of a youth soccer game, you can always get a discussion fired up by discussing city-county

unification, the future of the Rams and Provel cheese.

The latter, of course, is a product inextricably tied

to the pizza chain that prominently features

it: Imo’s Pizza, which is currently

celebrating 50 years in business.

The blended offspring of

provolone, Swiss and Cheddar, Provel is a distinctly “St. Louis taste,” according to many. It’s an exclusive style found, ahem, squarely in our region, atop the thin-crusted pies that define Imo’s pizza.

Steve Conway’s about as St. Louis as they come. He’s a longtime representative on the St. Louis Board

of Aldermen, whose father served as the

city’s mayor. For the past nine years, he’s

also been the chief financial officer of Imo’s Pizza, a job that

allows him a unique look at the company’s

place in local culinary lore.

People’s reactions to the Provelicious pizza usually involves a

“first-time” story and Conway’s place on the Imo’s management team

ensures that he has one.

“What I remember as a child was when the first Imo’s opened up in the

neighborhood I grew up in,” Conway says. “At that point in time, the only place I’d ever

had pizza was at a restaurant named Pagliacci’s at Manchester Avenue and Kingshighway Boulevard. One day, my dad came home with a pizza delivered in a paper bag. Those [early

it’s said that certain topics aren’t meant to be discussed in polite company.

pizza} bags were pretty good; they let a lot of steam out.” That said, “[pizzas] were hard to stack in those bags.”

John Imo, one of six Imo children who collaborate in running 13 restaurants, says that the original location sold only pizza and soda pop until 1968 or so. By the mid-’70s, the growing chain added sandwiches, pastas and other items to the menu.

That first location, likely the one that Conway’s dad patronized, could be found at the corner of Shaw and Thurman avenues in the Shaw neighborhood. The Imos shoehorned their original location alongside a grocery, a barbershop and at least one more storefront, eventually taking over the entire structure. Though the building is no longer an Imo’s location, founders Ed and Marge Imo still own it, as well as one operating Imo’s location, the landmark restaurant at Oakland and Hampton avenues on the city’s west side.

These days, not too many St. Louis kids are far from their local Imo’s, which now number 90-plus locations, with all but 12 found in our immediate region. While founders Ed and Marge Imo still maintain an interest in a couple of specific shops, their franchising plan has brought about the omnipresence of their very particular, very peculiar brand of pizza pies.

“The growth plan, right now, is that we continue to allow franchisees to expand,” says Conway. “The expansion, given the current state of the economy, is to allow all current owners to expand into adjacent territories. For example, we’ve recently opened two Imo’s [locations] in convenience gas stations – one in Chesterfield and one in Imperial.”

He admits that, “there are still a couple of blank spaces out there. When there’s an open spot, it’s usually given to stores that might overlap into an area, with a location that’s not connected to either store. What we don’t want to do is open a store next to someone’s territory, unless they don’t want to [go in themselves]. We want to give all stores opportunities.”

family styleConway believes that each of the franchisees attempt to make their restaurants as much of a family experience as possible, on both sides of the counter.

“All Imo’s [locations] are locally owned businesses,” he says. “There are no corporate stores. I do believe that our employees feel a closeness, a collective sense of being part of a team.”

Adds John Imo, “It’s how my parents operated and always pounded [it] into my head. They always took care of their help, always treated them as they wanted to be treated. Everything always seemed to circle around that philosophy and the franchisees saw that happening over the years and adopted it.”

Julia Smillie was a college kid from Louisville, Kentucky, attending Webster University in the ‘80s and ‘90s, when she worked the counter at the popular Webster Groves location. Now a writer in Ann Arbor, Michigan, she remembers

delivery was a new

thing. think of

the mindset of 1964 and

people thinking,

“you’re going to

cook dinner and bring it

to me?”

how’d those square cuts come to be? the story is that ed imo

was staring at tiles on the floor all day. so

when he went to work at night, he still had

squares on his mind.

71Inspired Food Culture JUNE 2014

her introduction to the pizza vividly. “I had my first bite of Imo’s at a Webster [University] dance and nearly vomited. But time heals all wounds, and I came to love Provel,” says Smillie. “For my birthday this

year [my husband] Chris ordered some frozen Imo’s pizza. I can’t share it with my Michigan friends. They’d never understand. I wouldn’t really share anyway.”

She says that longtime franchise owner Mike Prosperi was an adherent to team-building long before that term came into vogue.

“I can’t speak to other Imo’s [locations],” Smillie says, “but Prosperi fostered a real sense of family at his locations. We were a ragtag group – both behind the counter and leaning on it by the beer taps. We had

fun. A lot, a lot of fun.”

Spike Gillespie, an Austin, Texas, writer and wedding officiant, was one of Smillie’s

co-workers at the freewheeling Webster location. Her memories closely mirror those

of her friend Smillie, saying of her own introduction to the local favorite, “As for the flavor, being a Jersey girl who grew up with ‘real’ pizza, I think I initially scoffed

[at] the whole Provel-on-[a]-cracker concept. I mean, what the hell is Provel?

That’s not real cheese. Of course, I got addicted. I think I ate a mini every day of the last six months I was pregnant. (I wasn’t in St. Louis the first three months.) Imo’s pizza was [my son] Henry’s first solid food. I still love and miss the kooky, melty, sort-of-plasticky-but-not-at-all-plasticky taste.”

As with Smillie, Gillespie remembers the good times. “I loved working there,

Webster and Kirkwood, but especially Webster. There was that sense of family you

very often get in restaurant work, but more so. Maybe because, in my case, I worked there with my actual family, [my then boyfriend] Michael and his siblings, and then, when [our son] Henry was born, we brought him in all the time. But I felt family kinship with many people there. I also laughed a lot. Prosperi was/is something else.”

Dogtown resident Mark Rolf has spent the last decade in the banking game, but he clocked in numerous hours with Imo’s in the decade prior. He’s intimately familiar with the Imo’s family, having worked at the founders’ own restaurant at Hampton and Oakland, eventually managing that restaurant. His answer to what the family and restaurant mean to this city is a remarkably St. Louis-centric response.

“I know Marge, Ed and their four youngest children [John, Carol, Carl and Mary],” he says. “Mary was one of [my sister] Jenny’s close friends at St. Ambrose [on The Hill]. Having worked in different capacities for them for at least 10 years, I can say that the family is truly great. They are all genuine people who have gone out of their way to help me in life. Marge and Ed raised their kids the right way. Both John and Carl took me under their wings when I was 15 or 16, and I really enjoyed working with and for them. I don’t think I’ve ever seen Carol not smiling or in a good mood. Mary was probably one of my first crushes in grade school, and same with her about always smiling, laughing and in a good mood. A great family, great pizza. And I’m happy Imo’s Pizza has been around 50 years.”

“When they opened their first store, they had no idea if it would fly or not,” says John Imo of his parents. “Delivery, at the time, was unheard of. Think about the people who lived on The Hill, the old ladies who would walk to the corner store to get what they wanted for dinner that night. A staple of that life was that you cooked every night. What blew my dad away was that there was a bar in the neighborhood that would cook pizzas in the back for the people in the bar. There was never a sure thing that they’d bring it around to your house; you didn’t even know if they were cooking that night.

“When you look at it that way, [delivery] was a new thing,” says Imo, who owns locations in Chesterfield and Clayton. “Think of the mind-set of 1964 and people thinking, ‘You’re going to cook dinner and bring it to me?’”

These days, 94 locations [“a pretty impressive number,” Imo says] are scattered throughout the region, with nearly 4,200 full- and part-time employees. It’s a St. Louis staple. As is a certain kind of cheese…

by the numbers:Imo’s Pizza chief financial officer Steve Conway breaks down the square beyond compare.

• 1964: The year Ed and Marge Imo opened the first Imo’s location at the corner of Shaw Blvd. and Thurman Ave.

• 50: Number of states Imo’s delivers to as part of its frozen pizza delivery service.

• 30: The maximum number of minutes estimated as the wait time for most Imo’s deliveries.

• 8,500: The estimated number of Imo’s pizzas delivered in one day. The company says stores average 95 to 120 per store, depending on the day of the week.

through the years:• What is the most popular pizza on the menu? The Deluxe, with sausage, mushroom, onion, green peppers, bacon and Provel.

• What toppings do Ed and Marge Imo prefer on their pizza? Sausage, mushroom and onion.

• What did the first Imo’s Pizza menu look like? Very simple; it looked like a business card. Carry out and delivery only.

• What toppings were available on that first menu? Cheese, mushroom, onion, green pepper, sausage, bacon, pepperoni and hamburger. And the Deluxe pizza.

• 4,000: Roughly the number of employees working in stores across the region today.

• 50: Percent of Imo’s business made through deliveries.

• 28,000: Pounds of Provel are roughly used by Imo’s in one year, which means the company goes through about 2,400 pounds of Provel in a month and 600 pounds in a week.

• 1907: Thurman Ave., the address of the first location of Imo’s.

• PR 3-1977: The phone number at the first location in 1964.

• $1.50: How much an Imo’s 12-inch pizza cost in 1964. For $2 you could get a 14-inch pizza and for $3 a 16-inch pizza.

st. louis takes the squareOn a recent Saturday afternoon, the historic Imo’s location at Hampton and Oakland was humming. An overcast sky might have been cutting down on visitors from nearby Forest Park, thus paring down the pizza parlor’s customer base, too. While not overwhelmed, workers were still buzzing through the front of the house, clad in their signature red T-shirts, the phrase, “Peace. Love. Provel.” scrawled across their backs.

About 40 customers were dining inside the restaurant, at least one-third of them kids; a few taking turns faux-playing the old-school Ms. Pac-Man game near the counter. It was a pretty wholesome scene. And while the Imo’s menu contains a variety of non-pizza items – primarily pastas and salads – there wasn’t a table in the place that didn’t order one of its famous pies.

Imo says that, “if you drew a ring around St. Louis of 80 or 90 miles, Provel’s unheard of anywhere outside of that circle. It’s a niche product, very unique to us. A lot of people reference the cheese, almost like the liquor Scotch. As an outsider, when you first have it, you’re not sure that you like it,

just as when you have a first taste of Scotch. You drink it a little more, you acquire the taste.”

“For the most part,” Conway says, “people here are good with the St. Louis style, the thin crust, the Imo’s mainstay. People are very comfortable with the square cutting; I don’t hear much disagreement with the square cuts. People do disagree about Provel. People who don’t agree are usually transplants from around the country. If they say they don’t like Provel, I know that they’re not a born-and-bred St. Louisan. It’s like saying, ‘What high school did you go to?’ If you don’t like the question, you’re not from St. Louis.”

And the biggest question of all? How’d those square-cuts come into being?

“My dad was a tile-setter when he came out of the Army, working for his brothers. He was laying tile all day,” Imo says. “When they opened the pizza restaurant, it was only a nighttime business. The story is that he was staring at tiles on the floor all day. So when he went to work at night, he still had squares on his mind. I don’t know if that [is] the most accurate story, but it’s definitely the one we like to joke around with most.”

fun facts about imo’s

We asked a few notable St. Louisans about their thoughts on Provel, Imo’s and St. Louis-style pizza. Here’s what they had to say:

Mayor Francis Slay, City of St. Louis, via Twitter: Of course, I like Imo’s. I am the mayor of a city built on a foundation of Provel. #imospizzaday #fgs

Joe Bonwich: Do people bash the Cheez Whiz that goes on a Philly cheese steak? Or the green-that-doesn’t-occur-in-nature relish on a Chicago dog? And just what the hell is scrapple, anyway? That’s why I don’t get Provel-bashing when it occurs. It’s not like Provel has ever pretended to be something it’s not. Like pork steaks, slingers and gooey butter cake – it’s just us, the STL.

Chris Sommers, Pi Pizzeria: When I lived in San Francisco

in my 20s and early 30s, I made sure to grab an Imo’s pizza on every trip home. That was childhood, and certainly a taste one can’t get on the West Coast. Most cities have one – that ubiquitous “you-can-only-get-it-here dish.” While I firmly believe Ted Drewes would do well in any other city, the combination of Provel and cracker-thin crust doesn’t sit well with most who didn’t grow up on it. I’d say the same thing about Skyline Chili in Cincinnati, where we’re opening a Pi this summer. Pizza, like chili, apparently, is like baseball, or religion for that matter: You were indoctrinated as a child, and that defines the product. Some stray, but generally don’t adopt a new one later in life. The recent Jon Stewart rants (then later apology) about Chicago-style pizza supports this. New Yorkers, like Stewart, seem most fervent in their definition of pizza. (And baseball!) When we first opened Pi, using mozzarella instead of Provel, our most loyal regulars were those who didn’t grow up in St. Louis. Many of them had recently moved to [St. Louis] with the Wachovia

acquisition of A.G. Edwards. Those guests, as well as many other transplants, continue to be some of our best customers, but we are grateful that many native St. Louisans have also developed a taste for Pi. I have nothing but respect for the Imo family. They built an empire on a unique product. They are incredibly generous in their support of the community, as well. Most importantly, their business is built around a product that keeps a constant dialogue – or should I say argument – alive. So long as there is pizza in St. Louis, Provel will be loved or lambasted in every discussion thereof. Provel is synonymous with Imo’s, so neither is going away anytime soon.

Mary Engelbreit: We love the Imo’s in Webster, but always ask for mozzarella instead of Provel cheese! The thinner the pizza the better, in my opinion, and their toasted ravioli is fantastic. When my husband’s family comes in town, that’s the first place they want to go.

peace. love. provel.



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My Saturday mornings between May and October generally look the same. First, I wake up extra early for the Goshen Farmer’s Market in my neighborhood in Edwardsville, Illinois. I inevitably fall back asleep, and then curse myself for surely missing all of the “good” tomatoes when I wake up an hour later. After shopping at the market (where there just so happen to be plenty of “good” tomatoes), I’m predictably hungry. Rather than going home to enjoy the morning’s haul, I save that for later and stop by 222 Artisan Bakery for a snack.

I usually rotate between pastry flavors (mango is a favorite), but during those summer months, with fresh fruit brightening up every corner of the market, 222 takes advantage and creates these beautiful rainbow fruit tarts. As each berry pops into your mouth, summer skips over from the market and into 222’s doorway. Pair it with mango iced tea and it’s the perfect treat after loading up on all those “good” tomatoes.

222 Artisan Bakery222 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois 618.659.1122222bakery.com

Follow Stacy around town as she covers the St. Louis food and drink scene on The Feed at feastSTL.com.

CONtRIButOR: Stacy Mccann, editorial aSSiStant

rainbow fruit tarts PhOtOGRAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

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