it’s private air travel, reimagined....400 linden street, brattleboro. crowley cheese i first...

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RCH OF T RU LY E NCH A N T I NG P L ACE S

SEPTEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com

It’s private air travel, reimagined.

It’s a belief rooted in service, peace and comfort.

It’s business. It’s pleasure.

It’s simplicity. It’s luxury.

It’s buttoned up. It’s relaxed.

It’squiet.It’sconfident.

It’s peace of mind. Knowing that you’re top of mind.

Full-service travel planning is available to subscribers at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected] comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected].

C OV E R P H OTO G R A P H

Stowe, Vermont, surrounded by the splendor of fall

T H I S M O N T H

New England Road TripA leisurely drive through the peaceful Vermont countryside brought me to notable restaurants, fascinating museums, venerable cheese dairies and thriving distilleries. .............................. 1-7

Online: Vermont Touring Itinerary

San Francisco SurprisesAs well as an unexpectedly fine boutique hotel, my trip yielded an opportunity to visit the newly revitalized Museum of Modern Art. ........... 8-11

Online: San Francisco Walking Itinerary

Find video and more photography of our trips at andrewharper.com/hideaway-report

Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays full rate for all lodging, meals and related travel expenses. Since the inception of this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis.

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RCH OF T RU LY E NCH A N T I NG P L ACE S

SEPTEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year andrewharper.com

Landing at Burlington airport, I

realized to my surprise that I had

not set foot in Vermont for more

than five years. Shortly after my last

visit, in August 2011, the state suffered

the onslaught of Hurricane Irene. What

began as a characteristic coastal hurri-

cane veered into New England and

unleashed the worst meteorological

assault since the infamous storm of 1938.

Rivers overflowed, washing out bridges

and roads. But, with predictable Yankee

grit, Vermonters undertook repairs,

and it is now impossible to tell that such

devastation ever took place. Vermont may

be the embodiment of an idealized New

England, with its white clapboard houses,

sky-piercing steeples and stately Greek

Revival public buildings, but it is impor-

tant to remember that the towns are so

lovely because of constant preservation

efforts by succeeding generations.

Having picked up a rental car, we set

off on a counterclockwise route. Seventy-

five percent of Vermont is densely forest-

ed, and the population of approximately

625,000 is the second lowest of the 50

states, so between the towns there are

long stretches of nearly deserted road

and tracts of verdant hilly countryside.

A hundred miles due south of Burl-

ington, the town of Manchester offers a

fascinating mix of classic homes, plus the

historic Hildene estate, home to Robert

Todd Lincoln, oldest surviving son of

Abraham Lincoln and a man who served

as head of the Pullman Company for many

years. A wealth of retail establishments

includes the Orvis flagship store and

numerous high-end outlet shops as well

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This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2016

burned to the ground due to faulty wiring.

Completely restored, it reopened just in

time for the Great Recession. The current

owner Peter Sharp purchased the prop-

erty in 2010, bringing to it three genera-

tions of hotel expertise, as members of his

family have owned, at various times, The

Carlyle and the Stanhope in New York City

and the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles.

Set on a corner just off the main thor-

oughfare, the inn comprises a handsome

main building, with light yellow clapboard

and gabled roofs, plus two adjacent

structures. Together the three buildings

house the inn’s 20 rooms. Walking into

a reception area decorated with lovely

custom-painted murals, we were warmly

greeted by the manager, who subsequently

proved to be a congenial presence and an

invaluable source of information. Like all

of the rooms, our suite was individually

decorated with a mix of antiques and

contemporary furniture. A cozy lounge

contained a comfortable couch that faced

a gas fireplace and a small writing desk.

The spacious bedroom, painted a cheer-

ful hue of yellow, came with its own gas

fireplace, sofa, chest of drawers and large

closet. The bath was appointed with both

a soaking tub and a walk-in shower.

Breakfast is an important part of the

Panther stay, and it is served in a dining

room with coffered ceilings, generously

spaced tables and a view out to gardens

arranged around a small pond with a

fountain and a wooden bridge. In addition

to country-fresh eggs, daily specials make

ordering an enjoyable dilemma — except

for the day when irresistible blueberry

pancakes appeared.

One evening, we made for the snug

little bar situated just before the entrance

as one-of-a-kind galleries and the splen-

did independent Northshire Bookstore.

On this occasion we opted to stay at

the intriguingly named The Reluctant

Panther. The sobriquet is attributed to the

hesitation of the rare Vermont mountain

lions — known locally as “catamounts” —

to approach human habitations. Until 1897

the site was home to the Green Mountain

Tavern, once a favorite of Ethan Allen and

his Green Mountain Boys, and it became

The Reluctant Panther in the 1960s. In

late 2005, a Texan couple purchased the

inn and, almost exactly one month later, it

MANCHESTER

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Entrance, and our room at the Four Columns Inn, Newfane / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Exterior, and details of our suite at The Reluctant Panther, Manchester / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

1 The Reluctant Panther

2 Four Columns Inn

3 Woodstock Inn & Resort

4 Twin Farms

5 The Inn at the Round Barn Farm

6 The Pitcher Inn

7 Edson Hill

8 The Inn at Shelburne Farms

SEPTEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

to the dining room. There we enjoyed a

conversation with local couples — the

restaurant enjoys a high reputation in

this part of Vermont — before going in

for an excellent meal. I loved the starter

of fonduta with rock shrimp, artichokes,

baby spinach and brioche crostini in

a Chardonnay-fontina sauce. This was

followed by a superb rib eye from a

butcher owned by proprietor Peter Sharp.

The Reluctant Panther is a truly

charming inn with a fine staff, sophisti-

cated lodgings and a terrific restaurant.

Just so long as you don’t expect a full-

service luxury hotel, you are likely to be

extremely content.

B idding farewell to Manchester, we

headed east for an easy 35-mile

drive to Newfane, just north of the thriv-

ing town of Brattleboro, a lively place of

restaurants, shops and galleries that fill its

wealth of old brick buildings. Arriving in

Newfane, we found a classic New England

green surrounded by a cluster of white

buildings that included a Greek Revival

county courthouse, a church topped with

a heaven-ascending spire, a meeting hall

and the handsome Four Columns Inn.

In 1965, a French couple purchased

the property and, without knowing it at

the time, created a restaurant that prefig-

ured the contemporary farm-to-table

concept: Chickens and pigs were raised

on-site, game birds were sourced from

local hunters, a vegetable garden was

planted and trout ponds were installed.

To the regret of many, the couple sold the

inn in 1981, and, after a series of owners,

it closed in 2013. Recently, the inn and its

138 acres of grounds caught the eye of

Charles Mallory, CEO of Delamar hotels

in Connecticut — a company with luxury

properties in Greenwich, Southport and

shortly, West Hartford. All 16 rooms have

been fully renovated, and a new gym and

spa now complement the outdoor pool.

Today, the main building lies just

behind the original four-columned struc-

ture. At the front desk, an attentive young

woman greeted us and then helped us with

our luggage. “I think you’ll like this room,”

she said, as she opened the door to our

suite. We agreed. The spacious bedroom,

with a high ceiling beneath a peaked roof,

led to an alcove sitting area furnished with

a mix of antique and modern furniture,

which in turn extended onto a private deck

overlooking the pool and gardens. The

gentle blue of the walls made for a restful

atmosphere. In the large adjoining bath,

a Jacuzzi tub proved welcome at the end

of the day, while the walk-in shower got

the morning off to an invigorating start.

The inn’s public areas have been

attractively decorated with the work of

local artists. In the reception area, I was

particularly taken with a whimsical mural

by Lisa Adams depicting the Newfane

area. Another mural by the same artist

appears in the cozy bar, which attracts

numerous local folk with its large selec-

tion of craft beers and ciders. People

throughout the area also flock to the

in-house Artisan Restaurant , with its

large brick fireplace, beamed ceilings,

wide-planked floors and Windsor chairs.

Honoring the inn’s heritage, chef Frederic

I have long admired Vermont’s cheeses, so on our trip I sought out some of the local dairies.

The Vermont Cheese Council has 50 members who make more than 150 kinds of cheese from cow, sheep and goat milk. It publishes a useful pamphlet with a directory of members.

Consider Bardwell FarmThe name is not a plea for business; rather, it is the name of the man who founded the first Vermont cheesemaking cooperative in 1864. Russell Glover and Angela Miller are keeping the tradition vibrant. My favorites from the current portfolio are the Rupert, an aged cow cheese that can be likened to Gruyère, and the Manchester, a raw goat Tomme with an earthy, nutty character. 1333 Route 153, West Pawlet.

Grafton Village CheeseBegun as a cooperative in 1892 in the pretty village whose name it bears, Grafton has been relocated just north of Brattleboro with a factory, but also with an extensive tasting room and gift shop. Grafton makes several fine aged sheep milk cheeses, but I remain partial to the aged cheddars. Make sure to try the Queen of Quality, an artisanally crafted clothbound cheddar (not available commercially). 400 Linden Street, Brattleboro.

Crowley CheeseI first tasted this cheese many years ago, and then lost track of it, so I went in search. Nestled on a hillside, the Crowley Factory dates to 1882. The cheese is smooth and creamy, similar to young cheddar but without the tang. That said, after sampling several varieties, I preferred my original favorite: the medium-sharp iteration. 14 Crowley Lane, Mount Holly.

Vermont ShepherdOne of the oldest sheep milk dairies in the country, Vermont Shepherd consistently garners accolades for cheeses of great distinction. The production is small, but worth seeking out. I am a fan of the signature Verano, a creamy cheese with a hint of sweetness. 281 Patch Farm Road, Putney.

A R T I S A N A L P R O D U C E RS

On the Cheese Trail

Artisan Restaurant at the Four Columns Inn / © KELLY FLETCHER

Crowley’s medium sharp

Online: More Vermont Cheese

“ In 1965, a French couple purchased the property and, without knowing it at the time, created a restaurant that prefigured the contemporary farm-to-table concept.


Kieffer sources as many of the ingredients

as he can locally. I especially enjoyed a

starter of asparagus and spring pea soup,

followed by a Berkshire pork chop grilled

with smoked bacon, prunes, mushrooms

and fingerling potatoes, all with a just-

sweet cider glaze.

The Four Columns pulls off the trick

of updating the traditional with skill and

style. My only reservation is that the

service can be uneven. A couple of the

staff members might usefully add a little

starch to their performance, and someone

should point out to one otherwise charm-

ing young man that the richness of the

English language permits substitutes for

the word “awesome.”

F rom Newfane, our route took us 104

miles north to the little town of Waits-

field, which is adjacent to the Mad River

Glen ski area. Everything my research

turned up on The Inn at the Round Barn

Farm had tantalized me, especially the

distinctive architecture. Driving up the

hill from town, we could see the impres-

sive round barn itself. Built in 1910, this

served as the centerpiece of a dairy

farm, which ceased operations in 1969.

In 1986, new owners bought the property,

transforming it into a bed-and-breakfast.

Today, the 12-room inn incorporates the

barn, stables and the original farmhouse,

all set amidst 245 rolling acres.

Our room in the former stables

exuded charm with a slanted wooden ceil-

ing, ornate period wallpaper and terrific

views of the meadows beyond. The bath

was small, however. All was well, until a

couple arrived in the neighboring room.

Within moments we had learned more

about their private lives than we would

ever have wished, and the next afternoon

we shared in significant parts of a movie

that the couple in the other adjoining

room found raucously amusing. It’s a

shame, because we liked the inn and the

staff. We are always glad to get to know

fellow guests when we travel, but not to

the extent that the lack of soundproofing

here made possible.

The next leg of our trip took us as far

north in Vermont as we would go —

to the renowned Stowe ski area. I have

long searched for a place in Vermont

snow country that I could recommend

to Hideaway Report readers, but until

now it has proved elusive. Edson Hill

began in 1941 as the private getaway

for a Newport, Rhode Island man whose

family had made its fortune in Colorado

mining. Fast forward to 2014, when four

people who knew Edson Hill from Stowe

vacations — Susan Stacy, her husband

Tom Shanahan and brothers Jim and Bill

Goldenberg — purchased the property

with the goal of making it into an updated

New England inn. Stacy’s Boston design

firm, Stacy Gauthier, did the interior work.

Passing through the main gate and

following the long approach road, we

passed a red barn and horses grazing

in paddocks beside a shimmering pond.

The 23 rooms of Edson Hill are divided

between the so-called Manor House —

with brick walls, gray clapboard siding,

white trim and gabled roofs — and four

Before we left on our journey, a friend remarked, somewhat sarcastically, “I’ll bet

you even manage to turn up a distillery or two.” I didn’t — I turned up several. The state currently has 19 in operation.

Caledonia SpiritsThis fine producer turns out three bottlings: two gins and a vodka. I liked both gins: Barr Hill and Tom Cat. Unusually, the latter is aged in charred oak barrels, which gives it an amber hue and notes of spice and honey. 46 Log Yard Road, Hardwick.

Saxtons River DistilleryVermont friends alerted me to this fine producer. Saxtons River embraces the maple heritage of Vermont, incorporating it into every product but one (a coffee liqueur called Perc). The Sapling Maple Liqueur is sweet and intense. I also liked the Sapling Maple Bourbon and have since used it for making a Manhattan. 485 West River Road (Route 30), Brattleboro.

Smugglers’ Notch DistilleryThis producer offers vodka, gin, bourbon and an unusual wheat whiskey. The bourbon won me over, but the real winner turned out to be the Litigation Wheat Whiskey, made from a mix of wheat and malted barley and aged in charred white oak casks. 276 Main Street, Jeffersonville.

Stonecutter SpiritsThis small distiller currently sells two products, Single Barrel Gin and Heritage Cask Whiskey. Another, Small Batch Whiskey, is aging for release in 2019. Aged in former bourbon barrels, the gin stands as one of the most distinctive spirits I’ve tasted in some time. 1197 Exchange Street, Middlebury.

LO CA L S P I R I T S

Vermont Distilleries

Manor House, lounge, pond, and our room at Edson Hill, Stowe / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Online: More Vermont Distilleries


guesthouses situated farther up the hill.

We were allocated to a guesthouse, and I

felt a pang of disappointment at not being

in the Manor House with its paneled walls

and imposing staircase. The guesthouses

have pleasant but undistinguished exteri-

ors. Inside, however, our large room was

beautifully done with paneled walls, dark

wood floors, a white carpet and a beamed

ceiling. An alcove came with an ample

desk and a woodburning fireplace (17 of

the rooms have them), and a large bay

window granted an impressive view of the

mountains. The spacious bath provided

double vanities, a walk-in shower and

heated floors.

The lounge in the Manor House

displayed a sophisticated blend of tradi-

tional and contemporary design, with

honey-hued paneled walls, white carpet-

ing, large canvases of contemporary art

and both modern and antique furniture.

Big windows flood the colorful room with

light. Just off the lounge, the dining room

has windows on three sides and a stylish

chandelier made of white branches and

glass fixtures. There, I enjoyed a hanger

steak au poivre with wild mushrooms,

bacon, arugula, baby fingerling potatoes,

Bayley Hazen blue cheese (one of my

Vermont favorites) and grain mustard.

The cheeseboard was unusually appeal-

ing and accompanied by pickled pears,

Marcona almonds and house-made focac-

cia. Downstairs, a tavern draws a lively

evening crowd.

A lovely outdoor pool makes for an

ideal spot for lounging or a refreshing

dip, and numerous trails on the property

give both hikers and mountain bikers

a wealth of options. In winter, cross-

country skiing, snowshoeing, sledding

and ice skating are available. And for

downhill skiing, the slopes of Stowe are

just minutes away.

I tend to approach places l ike

Edson Hill — a traditional property

given a contemporary makeover — with

apprehension: I’ve seen too many fine

hotels desecrated by insensitive and

inappropriate modernization. But, Edson

Hill is an exception.

The last stage of our trip brought us

full-circle: Shelburne lies 43 miles

southwest of Stowe and 7 miles south of

Burlington. With the $10 million that she

inherited from her father in 1885, Lila

Vanderbilt Webb and her husband William

Seward Webb were able to fulfill their

dream of creating an agricultural estate

that employed only the most advanced

techniques. Having acquired 3,800 acres

of land along Shelburne Point on Lake

Champlain, they engaged Frederick Law

Olmsted, designer of New York’s Central

Park, to oversee the landscaping of the

estate, as well as more than 300 workers

to construct barns and to begin raising

crops and livestock. Today, the farm

functions as a nonprofit organization

dedicated to educational programs

intended to promote environmentally

responsible farming.

The Inn at Shelburne Farms, a

National Historic Landmark, was the

couple’s original home. It comprised a

Shingle style cottage (“cottage” being

Shelburne MuseumJust a short drive from The Inn at Shelburne Farms, the Shelburne Museum was founded in 1947 by Electra Havemeyer Webb, a pioneer in the appreciation of American folk art. While she initially focused on gathering paintings, quilts, textiles and furniture, Webb also assembled tableware, waterfowl decoys, carriages and other artifacts from daily life. In addition, she put together a remarkable assortment of original structures that includes a meeting house, a lighthouse and the “Round Barn,” all of which are spread across 45 acres in a town-like setting. Most unexpected was the Arnold Circus Parade, a 500-foot-long assemblage of figurines depicting the animals, clowns and wagons that would have been part of a circus in days gone by. A specially designed curved building houses this delightful work. Electra Webb accurately described the Shelburne Museum as a “collection of collec-tions.” 6000 Shelburne Road, Shelburne.

American Museum of Fly FishingWhile in Manchester, I spent a pleasant interlude at the American Museum of Fly Fishing. Located close to the Orvis flagship store, the museum collects, conserves and exhibits the largest group of angling-related items in the world. Exhibits depict the developments of fly-fishing over the centuries and celebrate it not just as a sport, but as an art. Displays of reels, showing how they evolved over the years, utterly fascinated me, as did the superbly mounted displays of flies. Also of interest was a collection of equipment used by U.S. presidents from John Adams to Dwight D. Eisenhower to George H. W. Bush. Even if your interest in fly-fishing is casual, I highly recom-mend this fascinating, well-presented museum. 4070 Main Street, Manchester.

C O L L EC T I O N S

Distinctive Museums

“ Activities at Shelburne Farms include a dip in Lake Champlain, kayaking, canoeing, tennis and hiking on the 10 miles of trails.

The Inn at Shelburne Farms, and its garden overlooking Lake Champlain / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


H OT E L S AT A G L A N C E

The Reluctant Panther A91L I K E The small sitting area (with fireplace) opposite the bar makes a delightful spot for morning coffee and the day’s paper. D IS L I K E As is true with many bed-and-breakfasts, there is no night staff. G O O D TO K N OW The Inn has a relationship with the Hildene estate and offers admission at a significantly reduced rate. Junior Suite, $440; Deluxe Suite, $510. 39 West Road, Manchester, VT. Tel. (802) 362-2568. reluctantpanther.com

Four Columns Inn A91L I K E The setting is captivating at any time of day due to the lovely landscaping, which is accented at night with careful lighting. D IS L I K E The service in the dining room was friendly but uneven. G O O D TO K N OW The adjacent West Brook cottage sleeps four and has a full kitchen making it ideal for families. Woodland Room, $260; Newfane Room, $315. 21 West Street, Newfane, VT. Tel. (802) 365-7713. fourcolumnsvt.com

Edson Hill A90L I K E The atmosphere of a private retreat in the busy Stowe area. D IS L I K E Precious design elements, such as “Live in the Moment” delineated in wire script on the wall of the bath. G O O D TO K N OW Stowe is full of good restaurants; the innkeepers can make reliable recommendations and reservations. Manor House King, $260; Fireplace King, $270. 1500 Edson Hill Road, Stowe, VT. Tel. (802) 253-7371. edsonhill.com

The Inn at Shelburne Farms A92L I K E The beautiful formal gardens on the lake side of The Inn make for a delightful stroll. D IS L I K E There is no elevator. G O O D TO K N OW The Inn is only open from May to October. Farm products, notably cheeses and meats, are available for sale at the shop at the entrance to the property; reception can hold those items requiring refrigeration until your departure. Tower Room, $325; Green Room, $435. 1611 Harbor Road, Shelburne, VT . Tel. (802) 985-8498. shelburnefarms.org

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. Visit andrewharper.com for information on these and Twin Farms, The Pitcher Inn and Woodstock Inn & Resort. The Inn at the Round Barn Farm (87) was not up to the required standard.

used in the Newport , Rhode Island

sense) built in 1887 and significantly

enlarged a decade later. Traversing

the grounds on our way to The Inn gave

us a chance to see outlying structures

such as the magnificent turreted Farm

Barn, which would not have looked out

of place on the Hogwarts campus, and

the impressive Coach Barn, now used for

conferences and other gatherings. As the

road skirted Lake Champlain, The Inn

emerged on the rise of a hill. An imposing

structure of rich red bricks, it has

shingled roofs punctuated by dormers and

towering chimneys.

Inside, the house is very much as it

was when the Webbs lived there. Reception

is a book-filled office just off the Main Hall,

and, with the assistance of a porter, we

made our way up the grand staircase to the

second floor. Each of the 24 rooms (there

are also four cottages on the grounds)

features period décor and furniture, with

no two being alike.

The “Louis XVI Room” came with

exquisite patterned wallpaper, a rich

blue carpet, painted furniture and an

ornate armoire. Large windows afforded

a memorable view of Lake Champlain.

Electronic devices were conspicuous

by their absence, and there was no

air-conditioning (which was superfluous

during our stay, but is a must for many

Hideaway Report readers). The bath was

on the small side, with a single pedestal

sink and a combined bath and shower.

(Rooms vary greatly in size, and five have

shared baths, so only the more expensive

In addition to the new places I discovered on my recent trip, I heartily recommend three other properties:

Twin Farms A98 This intimate country retreat is set amid meadows and woodlands in an unspoiled valley. Hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork and American folk art adorn rustically elegant lounges, while the original barn, with its impressive raftered interior, houses the congenial library. Guests choose from 20 distinctive lodgings (including a self-contained four-suite enclave) that feature king-size feather beds and sitting areas with fireplaces that open onto screened porches. Request one of the imaginatively decorated cottages (“Log Cabin,” “Treehouse” and “Woods” are especially appealing). I have always found the restau-rant exceptional; other facilities include a spa, gym and Japanese-style soaking tubs. During the summer, you can pursue tennis, fishing and canoeing, and, during the winter, skiing. Closed late March to May.

The Pitcher Inn A95This small, charming inn sits beside a rushing stream in Warren, a quaint village that is one hour southeast of Burlington. The 11 stylish accommodations, including a pair of two-bedroom suites, are decorated to reflect various aspects of Vermont, with most featuring antiques, woodburning fireplaces, Jacuzzi baths and steam showers. Of the accommodations, “Ski,” “Lodge,” “Mountain” and “Trout” are especially charming. Public areas include a comfortable library, a creekside lounge, the cozy Tracks tavern for classic pub fare and the first-rate restaurant 275 Main, which serves locally sourced farm-to-table cuisine backed by a well-stocked wine cellar. Activities include hiking, biking, trout fishing, golf and tennis. In winter, skiing, ice skating and sleigh rides provide the chief recreational opportunities.

Woodstock Inn & Resort A91This landmark resort hotel stands on the village green of Woodstock, a town often cited as one of the pret-tiest in the United States. Much of this is due to the Rockefellers, who built the Inn. The Rockefeller family also played a key role in preserving many of the town’s historic structures, and they were behind the move to bury all of the utility lines, preserving the rural character of the town. In the Inn itself, the 142 spacious lodgings range from Woodstock Kings, with sitting areas and writing desks; to spacious Main Inn Suites, with marble baths; to the Executive Suite, with a living space, dining room and kitchenette. Adding to the appeal are four dining options, the Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed golf course, tennis, pools, a gym and a spa.

Vermont Harper Classics

Farm Barn at Shelburne Farms / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER


Vermont’s restaurateurs display a passion for locally grown, artisanally produced

ingredients. This list follows our route from Manchester to Burlington.

The Copper GrouseWith dark wood floors, coffered ceiling, wainscoting and wallpapered walls, this

restaurant in the new Taconic Hotel in Manchester feels like an old New England

tavern — but with an up-to-date menu. Delicious dishes from our meal included a

plump crab cake with a roasted poblano aioli and pineapple chutney, and grilled

swordfish with a sweet potato-crab hash. The lively bar has become a favorite

gathering spot in Manchester. 3835 Main Street, Manchester. Tel. (802) 362-0176.

275 MainPart of The Pitcher Inn, this is a sedate and stylish place with hardwood floors,

widely spaced tables and subdued lighting. Although not from Vermont, the soft shell

crab with lemon brown butter, pea purée and a radish sprout salad turned out to

be crisp perfection. For my main, I opted for the pan-roasted veal medallions with

king oyster mushrooms, watercress and orzo with feta. The service is exceptional,

as is the wine list. 275 Main Street, Warren. Tel. (802) 496-6350.

PlateWood floors, open space, a long bar and smart young staff all contributed to a lively

evening of great food. My starter of a green garlic soufflé came filled with Tarentaise

cheese and fiddlehead ferns. The main course of seared halibut with fingerling

potatoes, Swiss chard and an orange-vanilla beurre blanc impressed me for its

inventiveness and for the interplay of flavors. And dessert — a Mason jar filled

with vanilla pudding, whipped cream, chunks of bananas and Nilla wafers — was

a taste time machine back to childhood. 91 Main Street, Stowe. Tel. (802) 253-2691.

Doc PondsThis is a roadhouse in form but not essence, to which the many Mercedes and

Porsches in the parking lot will attest. Inside it provides convivial fun, and the

food is first rate. The Beets & Brussels salad united two of my favorite vegetables

with feta and spiced pecans, and the jerk pork chop with black beans and cabbage

could not have been more succulent. 294 Mountain Road, Stowe. Tel. (802) 760-6066.

Hen of the WoodChef Eric Warnstedt has earned a stellar reputation at this handsome restaurant

with a dark wood interior (he and partner William McNeil also own Doc Ponds).

The menu changes frequently. Personal favorites include the hen of the woods

mushroom toast with a poached egg and house-made bacon, and the rich paprika

pappardelle with braised pork, wild leek sausage and zucchini. 55 Cherry Street,

Burlington. Tel. (802) 540-0534.

Recommended Restaurants

Beets & Brussels salad at Doc Ponds, and mushroom toast with a poached egg and house-made bacon at Hen of the Wood / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

accommodations are recommended. The

“Yellow Room,” should be avoided, as part

of it is above the kitchen.)

As I explored The Inn, I discovered

place after place that captivated me:

the serene library, painted a lush shade

of jade green; the south porch, with

comfortable chairs overlooking the

lawn and the lake; and the top-floor

playroom, filled with giant dollhouses,

stuffed animals and block sets, many

of them dating to the early days of the

house. Despite the elegance of the dining

room, we opted to eat out on the terrace

with its unforgettable vistas of the lake

and beyond. The menu changes daily,

and many of the ingredients are sourced

from the farm. Standout dishes included

a tart of pheasant’s back mushrooms with

a mushroom pâté, morels and Champlain

Valley Creamery Triple cheese, and

Shelburne lamb with couscous, sweet

potato purée, Swiss chard, local feta and

a honey-garlic demi-glace.

Activities abound at The Inn, with

options including a dip in Lake Champlain,

plus kayaking, canoeing, tennis on the

Har-Tru court and hiking on the 10 miles

of trails. Off the estate, this region of

Vermont offers numerous attractions,

including the nearby Shelburne Museum

(see box).

In a world of look-alike resorts and

hotels, The Inn at Shelburne Farms offers

a truly distinctive, charming experience,

very much like staying at the grand home

of an old family friend who has resisted

the siren call of modernity. H

Farm Barn at Shelburne Farms / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER


A N E W B O U T I Q U E H OT E L A N D A R E I N V E N T E D C L A S S I C

Savoring San Francisco

Thanks to its prosperous economy, a thriving cultural scene and a prime location

within easy driving distance of mountains, wine country and the ocean, San

Francisco draws around 20 million leisure visitors per year. And yet I have

long been frustrated by my inability to recommend a worthwhile boutique property

to Hideaway Report readers.

I currently suggest the Four Seasons and St. Regis — 277 and 260 rooms,

respectively — which are within a three-minute walk of each other. Though they are

predictably elegant and comfortable hotels, they do not truly embody the qualities

that make San Francisco unique. On my most recent trip, however, I stayed at three

contrasting properties that did at least provide an authentic sense of place.

Wanting to be close to the recently

renovated and expanded Museum

of Modern Art (SFMOMA), I booked a

room at the iconic 556-room Palace

Hotel, conveniently located in a district

south of Market Street and a 10-minute

walk from Union Square and 15 minutes

by foot from the Ferry Building. When

it opened in 1875, this grande dame

offered unprecedented luxury and was

the place to see and be seen for the

political figures and celebrities of the

time. It is now the oldest surviving hotel

in San Francisco. Following a recent

multimillion-dollar makeover, it reopened

in late 2015 with completely refurbished

rooms featuring new flooring and a fresh

color scheme of midnight blue, plum,

cream and charcoal. Though the revamp

added contemporary amenities to the

accommodations, many original design

elements have been preserved, including

intricate wrought-iron windows and solid

oak entry doors ornamented with brass

monogrammed knobs.

Our spacious and comfortable Corner

Deluxe Suite came with a living area that

included a dining table for six, a couch

and large windows affording dramatic city

views. Separated from the living room by

a sliding door, the spacious bedroom was

awash with natural light and provided

a king-size bed, clean-lined mahogany

furnishings, elegant crown moldings,

chrome accents and conveniently placed

outlets. The marble bath, however, was

disappointing, being tiny and with barely

enough space for a single vanity and a

glass walk-in shower. Apparently, small

baths are a drawback chiefly confined to

corner rooms and suites; elsewhere they

are adequate. Despite this surprising

inconvenience, the staff were friendly,

and room service arrived 15 minutes

before the estimated time.

The most impressive feature of

the hotel is the dramatic Garden Court

restaurant and lounge, which was desig-

nated a city landmark in 1969. Originally

purposed as a circular carriage entry,

the lavish three-story Parisian-inspired

atrium features a stained-glass dome,

marble colonnades, mirrored doors and

gilded sconces. The restaurant serves a

lavish breakfast buffet, their “City Brunch”

and high tea. Elsewhere, the club-like Pied

Piper Bar & Grill provides a casual dining

option in a wood-paneled dining room

highlighted by a spectacular Maxfield

Parrish painting. Other amenities include

Our bedroom, pool, and Garden Court at the Palace Hotel

Rooftop lounge at The Battery / © MELISSA K ASEMAN


a fitness center that has floor-to-ceiling

windows and which faces a skylit indoor

swimming pool. Overall, the millions

lavished on the Palace have brought the

property into the modern age without

sacrificing the feeling of bygone grandeur

and timeless grace.

Having received positive reports

about the Fairmont Heritage Place,

Ghirardelli Square, we headed to this

urban waterfront “private residence

club.” Located in a brick building (the

former Ghirardelli Chocolate factory)

atop Ghirardelli Square, and a short walk

from Fisherman’s Wharf, this property

offers overnight accommodations as well

as fractional home ownership programs.

Each room provides luxury amenities

including Bosch washer/dryers, Sub-Zero

wine fridges and kitchenettes with micro-

wave ovens. Open-plan dining spaces

flow into comfortable living areas with

gas fireplaces, and some accommoda-

tions have semi-private outdoor terraces.

Personal shopper and butler services

can be arranged, and complimentary car

service is offered within a two-mile radius.

Our 850-square-foot one-bedroom

Residence had hand-grooved maple floors

and exposed brick walls, and the design

was minimalist with predominantly choco-

late brown furnishings. As soon as we

put down our bags, we were drawn to the

picture windows where we admired the

scenic bay views. Alas, when looking for

seating in the room from which to further

enjoy the sights, our options were only a

worn teal velvet chair with stains and an

uncomfortable, musty couch appointed

Reopened in May 2016 after a three-

year, $305 million renovation, the

San Francisco Museum of Modern

Art (SFMOMA) features a fresh, cutting-

edge design and houses a vast collection

of contemporary works in all mediums.

The new 235,000-square-foot expan-

sion overseen by the Snøhetta archi-

tecture firm seamlessly merges with

the original Mario Botta-designed post-

modern structure. The novel building,

with its exterior of wavy cement panels,

towers over the original five-story brick

structure. Botta’s famous open-space atrium has been preserved, but the stairs

leading up to the second-floor lobby have been reconfigured to allow more light to

stream in through the oculus and for easier visitor circulation. At the Howard Street

entrance, the recently added COR-TEN steel structure “Sequence,” by Richard Serra,

is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling glass windows and amphitheater-style seating.

With the new annex, the museum’s exhibition space has more than doubled,

and it now encompasses two gallery floors with exhibits including abstract expres-

sionist and pop art displays, sizable rotating installations and Doris and Donald

Fisher’s private collection of 1,100 works on a 100-year loan. Adjacent to the Alex-

ander Calder: Motion Lab on the third floor is the largest living garden wall in the

United States.

When it comes time to take a break, there

are three very different culinary options. For

a quick pick-me-up, Affogato Bar on the third

floor offers artisanal Sightglass Coffee and

pastries. For light fare, Cafe 5 serves Califor-

nia fusion specialties either inside or out in

the relaxing sculpture garden. The culinary

highlight, however, is Michelin three-starred

chef Corey Lee's distinctive restaurant, In Situ.

With seven floors of exhibition space,

it is not possible to comfortably tour the

whole museum in one day. Most floors are

not thematically organized; instead, you

may have a Picasso that is next to a Warhol

and across from a Rauschenberg. If you only

have limited time, I recommend starting

with the Open Ended gallery on the second

floor to see the classic favorites from the museum’s permanent collection prior to

the remodel, which include Jackson Pollock’s “Guardians of the Secret” and Henri

Matisse’s “Femme au Chapeau.” From there, head to Alexander Calder’s exhibit on

the third floor and relax on a bench facing the living garden wall. Next, wander to

the Approaching American Abstraction gallery one floor up to view works by Ells-

worth Kelly, Cy Twombly and Agnes Martin. Head back down to In Situ for a delicious

lunch to re-energize and rest sore feet. After lunch, I recommend one last stop on

the fifth floor to see The Fisher Collection’s Pop, Minimal and Figurative Art exhibit.

The MOMA has revitalized the art world in the Bay Area and is now a must-see

attraction on any visit to San Francisco.

The Revitalized Museum of Modern Art

/ PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

C O N T E M P O R A RY C U LT U R E

Howard Street view of the renovated SFMOMA© HENRIK K AM/COURTESY SFMOMA

Guinea fowl larp Chiang Mai, and celeriac and goat cheese profiteroles at In Situ

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with faded purple pillows and which was

unhelpfully facing the fireplace. Despite

our hopes for a pleasing bedroom, it imme-

diately struck us as undistinguished. The

only decorations in the room were three

small photographs set above the bed;

other than that, the walls were unadorned

and the tabletops were bare. Although

the king-size bed was comfortable, the

brown leather headboard was frayed, and,

on our way to the bath, we encountered

an unsettling stain on the carpet. While

spacious and softly lit, the bath was not

well designed. Towels were set directly on

the marble vanity counter, far from the

marble rainfall shower, and there were

large empty areas that felt like they were

missing shelves or furniture.

The complimentary breakfast buffet

was also underwhelming. The options

were limited, the egg wraps were not

replenished and Mrs. Harper’s bagel

was stale. However, there was a spacious

terrace adjoining the breakfast room

that proved to be a pleasant place to eat.

There is no on-site restaurant for lunch

or dinner, but room service arrives from

nearby restaurants in Ghirardelli Square.

The hotel has a 24-hour fitness room

available for guests.

The Fairmont Heritage Place might

conceivably be of interest to families who

are looking for above-average ameni-

ties with an exceptional view of Alca-

traz, Angel Island and Sausalito, or it

might prove adequate for those seeking

proximity to local attractions such as

the museums and farmers’ market at

Fort Mason, the Marina District with

its excellent restaurants and the bike/

pedestrian paths that run between the

Bay and Golden Gate bridges. Otherwise

it is not recommended.

M rs. Harper and I checked out a day

early and switched to The Battery

hotel, where we had a very different

experience. Set in a private members-

only club in the Financial District, where

hotel guests are considered resident

members during their stay and have

complimentary access to all facilities,

The Battery proved to be a fine boutique

property. The 58,000-square-foot building

was formerly a marble-cutting factory

and now encompasses an expansive bar/

lounge, 14 guest accommodations, a large

San Francisco is famously an engine of culinary innovation. Superb locally

sourced and seasonal ingredients are a constant source of inspiration for the

gastronomically adventurous chefs that call the city home.

The ProgressSet in a former theater dating from 1911, The Progress is an innovative contemporary

restaurant with a minimalist dining room. The “create your own adventure” prix

fixe menu comprises five one-bite amuse bouches followed by the diners’ choice of

four entrée-sized family-style courses. Highlights of our small plates included a fava

bean arancini with a light pesto drizzle, and a flaky buttermilk biscuit accompanied

by apple-bourbon black butter. Out of the enticing array of dishes, the spicy wood-

fired Spanish octopus on a bed of shaved fennel, shell bean hummus and toasted

black rice was exceptional. 1525 Fillmore Street. Tel. (415) 673-1294.

Lazy BearDiners at Lazy Bear are encouraged to mingle and socialize with other patrons and

even to chat with the chefs in the open kitchen. In an atmospheric second-floor

lounge, we were offered five appetizers accompanied by Champagne and craft

cocktails. Afterward we were ushered downstairs to one of two long wooden tables.

Highlights of our multicourse feast included Dungeness crab with snap pea, avocado,

charred cucumber and mint, and a halibut plate accompanied by crawfish and crisp

summer squash. Guests can opt for a wine pairing to accompany their meal. The

service was professional, but since all diners are served the same dish at the same

time, it can feel a little rushed. 3416 19th Street. Tel. (415) 874-9921.

Lord StanleyRecently awarded a Michelin star, Lord Stanley in the Russian Hill District offers

sophisticated European-influenced cuisine in a light-flooded two-level space.

Though there is an à la carte menu, I highly recommend the prix fixe tasting menu

and additional wine pairings. We relished a delicious starter of crisp cabbage with

house buttermilk and uni bottarga, and a main of wagyu beef with a potato cake

and red wine jus. Our peach Melba-inspired dessert with verbena ice cream and

milk crumb was outstanding. 2065 Polk Street. Tel. (415) 872-5512.

In SituOverseen by three-star chef Corey Lee, In Situ is the new culinary gem at the Museum

of Modern Art. In a sleek, light-filled space, the rotating à la carte menus exactly

reproduce the signature dishes of over 80 iconic chefs from around the world

allowing visitors to experience the gastronomic achievements of luminaries such

as Alice Waters, Thomas Keller and Michel Guérard. We sampled dishes including

brown oyster stew (originally by Sean Brock of Husk in Charleston), guinea fowl larp

Chiang Mai (David Thompson, Nahm, Bangkok), and spicy pork sausage rice cakes

(David Chang, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, New York City). 151 Third Street. Tel. (415) 941-6050.

New San Francisco Restaurants

Sampling of dishes at The Progress, and seared halibut with pole beans at Lord Stanley

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H OT E L S AT A G L A N C E

Palace Hotel A90L I K E The fresh, contemporary in-room style; naturally lit swimming pool; The Garden Court’s intricately adorned atrium. D IS L I K E Extremely small bath; lack of fine-dining restaurant for dinner. G O O D TO K N OW SF City Guides offers free historical walking tours of the Palace Hotel and its surrounding neighborhood (sfcityguides.org). Corner Deluxe Room, $680. 2 New Montgomery Street, San Francisco, CA. Tel. (415) 512-1111. sfpalace.com

The Battery A96L I K E Delicious breakfast; accommodating staff; expansive penthouse with scenic rooftop patio; rotating art exhibits. D IS L I K E Dimly lit library unsuitable for reading; downstairs lobby-lounge can be a bit “scene-y” after 10 p.m. G O O D TO K N OW The chic Musto Bar is a speakeasy hidden behind a bookcase and accessed by a secret lever. Courtyard Room, $845; Battery Suite, $1,100. 717 Battery Street, San Francisco, CA. Tel. (415) 230-8000. thebatterysf.com

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. Visit andrewharper.com for information on these and The St. Regis (93) and the Four Seasons (91). The Fairmont Heritage Place, Ghirardelli Square (86) was not up to the required standard.

fitness area and a spa that has a steam

room, a sauna and an oversized hot tub.

A brick-walled restaurant overseen by

chef Nicolai Lipscomb features a rustic-

chic décor with tall wood columns,

comfortable studded chairs, oval mirrors

and some rather grand framed portraits.

Though the seasonal menu is extensive,

there are several better dining options

nearby, including Quince , Piperade

and Boulevard.

The interior design of The Battery

feat u r e s ba r o que c a ndelabra s , a

suspended steel-and-glass staircase,

well-curated modern art and a mix of

antique and modern furnishings. A dimly

lit library contains a seating area with

a nautical theme and shelves stocked

with books that are recommended by

members. Guest and member privacy is

protected with a strict no-photo policy,

and cellphone use is not permitted in

public areas, though there are private call

booths tucked into corners throughout

the hotel.

To reach our stylish Deluxe Room

on the third floor, we rode a dramatic

glass elevator overlooking an enclosed

garden lounge. The graciously appointed

accommodations sported a handsome

décor with hardwood floors, light gray

walls, a soft leather chair and a comfortable

bed backed by a tan headboard. A corner

bar was well-stocked with high-end liquors

and locally sourced snacks. The bath came

with a frosted-glass walk-in shower and a

separate freestanding eggshell soaking

tub. A booklet in the room highlighted the

rotating exhibitions and featured events

at the hotel.

A 6,200-square-foot rooftop pent-

house includes a living room with floor-

to-ceiling windows, a fireplace, a Jacuzzi,

a kitchen and a patio that itself features

a 14-seat outdoor dining table and

panoramic views of the Transamerica

Pyramid and the Bay Bridge. Though

the staff seemed a little too pleased with

themselves at times, overall the service

was courteous, efficient and helpful.

I highly recommend joining the daily

tour, which provides an informative

run-through of the current art exhibition

as well as the history of the building. In

many ways, The Battery proved to be the

San Francisco hideaway that I have been

searching for all these years. H

The Garden Bar, hot tub, bath, and details of our Deluxe Room at The Battery

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The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. SUBSCRIBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

2 0 1 6 A N N UA L R E A D E R S U RV E Y

The Results Are In

Over the years, Hideaway Report readers have displayed intense loyalty to their favorite

hotels and resorts. Each time the annual Reader Survey is compiled, I see new entries — very often properties that I have reviewed in the previous 12 months — but a flock of familiar names returns with the reassuring reliability of swallows in springtime. For an astonishing eight years in a row, the Post Ranch Inn atop Big Sur was voted your No. 1 U.S. Hideaway. This year it was finally dethroned, but only to No. 2, having been replaced by the Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley. Your favorite International Hideaway of 2015, Otahuna Lodge in New Zealand, was similarly demoted by a single place thanks to the popularity of Aman Venice. But, The Lowell Hotel in New York topped the City Hotel listing, just as it did 12 months ago. For more than 20 years, Aman resorts have featured prominently in the Survey, and this time around is no excep-tion. Both Amangiri in Utah and Amangani in Wyoming made the Top 20 U.S. Hideaways, while the new Aman Tokyo is already at No. 11 on the City Hotels list. The 2016 Survey also illustrates a consistent preference for Four Seasons hotels, with Four Seasons Maui at Wailea and Four Seasons Hualalai each appearing in four different award categories. Although some familiar European names are absent this year, despite recent terrorist atrocities and the ongoing Syrian refugee crisis, Europe remains the region of the world where you are most interested to travel. No fewer than 75 percent of respondents said that they hoped to cross the Atlantic during 2016, with Italy, France and Great Britain being the three most favored destinations. Elsewhere, you identified South Africa, Japan, New Zealand and Argentina as countries of particular allure. And, despite the prevailing global uncertainty, 40 percent of readers intend to travel more than in 2015. For a comprehensive version of the Reader Survey, accompanied by extensive illustration, visit andrewharper.com. Safe travels for 2016 and, who knows, perhaps our paths may cross!

Auberge du Soleil / © TRINETTE REED

1 Auberge du Soleil Rutherford, California

2 Post Ranch Inn Big Sur, California

3 Calistoga Ranch Calistoga, California

4 The Inn at Little Washington Washington, Virginia

5 San Ysidro Ranch Santa Barbara, California

6 Amangiri Canyon Point, Utah

7 Amangani Jackson, Wyoming

8 Little Palm Island Little Torch Key, Florida

9 Lake Placid Lodge Lake Placid, New York

10 Twin Farms Barnard, Vermont

11 L'Auberge Carmel Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

12 Jenny Lake Lodge Moose, Wyoming

13 Rancho Valencia Rancho Santa Fe, California

14 The Lodge at Sea Island St. Simons Island, Georgia

15 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana

16 Wheatleigh Lenox, Massachusetts

17 Farmhouse Inn Forestville, California

18 The White Barn Inn Kennebunk Beach, Maine

19 Old Monterey Inn Monterey, California

20 The Point Saranac Lake, New York

Readers’ Top 20 Hideaways (Hotels and resorts with 50 or fewer rooms)

1 Aman Venice Venice, Italy

2 Otahuna Lodge Christchurch, New Zealand

3 The Meridian Club Pine Cay, Turks & Caicos

4 Abbaye de la Bussière La Bussière-sur-Ouche, France

5 Eden Rock St. Jean Bay, St. Barths

6 Château Saint-Martin & Spa Vence, France

7 &Beyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

8 Algodon Mansion Buenos Aires, Argentina

9 Amandari Bali, Indonesia

10 Ballyfin County Laois, Ireland

11 Jumby Bay Jumby Bay Island, Antigua

12 Abu Camp Okavango Delta, Botswana

13 Château Eza Eze Village, France

14 Amanyara Providenciales, Turks & Caicos

15 Castello del Nero Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Italy

16 Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza, Argentina

17 Huka Lodge Taupo, New Zealand

18 Belmond Hotel Caruso Ravello, Italy

19 Blanket Bay Glenorchy, New Zealand

20 Petit St. Vincent St. Vincent & the Grenadines

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