italy in the european textiles, clothing and leather system
TRANSCRIPT
ITALY IN THE EUROPEAN TEXTILES,
CLOTHING AND LEATHER SYSTEM
(Fashion System)
Clemente Tartaglione
ARESDUEZERO.IT
EWC Coordination in the Textiles, Clothing and Leather sectors
Prato, 24 – 26 February 2015
TEXTILES, CLOTHING AND LEATHER IN EUROPE
2
N AT I O N A L A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L T U R N OV E R
DY N A M I C S , FA S H I O N C O N S U M P T I O N S I N E U,
C U R R E N T P RO D U C T I V E A N D O C C U PAT I O N A L
S T RU C T U R E
3
Three main dimensions of the fashion system in EU27
Turnover 198
bilion of euro
Employed
2.078.000
Enterprises
229.302
4
Growth performances during the crisis (2008- 2014): a turnover dynamics
comparison among the main EU countries in the fashion system
Total domestic non domestic Total domestic non domestic
Poland 39% 27% 57% Romania 60% -5% 119%
Romania 24% -7% 90% Poland 37% 11% 80%
Bulgaria 12% -11% 48% Hungary 10% -27% 25%
Czech Republic 6% -10% 23% Czech Republic 7% -14% 20%
United Kingdom 3% 1% 9% Bulgaria -6% -34% 11%
France 3% 5% -1% Portugal -6% -13% 1%
Germany 2% -2% 6% United Kingdom -7% 2% -26%
Hungary -2% -19% 7% France -7% -7% -7%
Portugal -4% -18% 13% Italy -10% -16% 1%
Italy -11% -18% 6% Germany -11% -15% -6%
Spain -16% -30% 13% Spain -19% .. ..
Total domestic non domestic Total domestic non domestic
Portugal 14% 10% 17% Poland 48% 30% 79%
France 0% -2% 4% France 47% 34% 70%
Romania -7% -36% 22% United Kingdom 45% 42% 50%
Bulgaria -10% -20% -4% Romania 27% -3% 44%
Poland -11% -20% 6% Italy 16% -3% 41%
United Kingdom -17% -19% -6% Portugal 12% 7% 14%
Czech Republic -17% -57% 32% Hungary -1% -17% 1%
Italy -19% -28% 0% Spain -7% .. ..
Germany -28% -26% -31% Czech Republic -10% -67% 52%
Spain -31% .. .. Germany -10% -8% -15%
Hungary -32% -18% -37% Bulgaria -22% -65% 7%
MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILES
MANUFACTURE OF WEARING MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER AND
MANUFACTURING
5
Percentage of clothes and footwear consumption on the percentage of
overall family consumption: a comparison among EU countries
-70%
-60%
-50%
-40%
-30%
-20%
-10%
0%
10%
0,0%
1,0%
2,0%
3,0%
4,0%
5,0%
6,0%
7,0%
8,0%
9,0%
10,0%
Bulg
ari
a
Po
rtug
al
Hun
gary
Ro
man
ia
Fra
nce
Gre
ece
Cze
ch
Rep
ublic
Sp
ain
Po
lan
d
Germ
an
y
Belg
ium
Neth
erl
ands
Italy
Irela
nd
Austr
ia
Sw
ed
en
Den
mark
Un
ited
Kin
gdom
1999 2010 Differenziale 2010/1999 (right scale)
The Italian fashion system’s ranking in Europe (EU27)
6
EMPLOYED
1° ITALY
2° ROMANIA
3° PORTUGAL
4° POLAND
5° GERMANY
TURNOVER
1° ITALY
2° GERMANY
3° FRANCE
4° SPAIN
5° REGNO UNITO
ENTERPRISES
1° ITALY
2° SPAIN
3° POLAND
4° FRANCE
5° PORTUGAL
INVESTMENT
1° ITALY
2° GERMANY
3° FRANCE
4° REGNO UNITO
5° PORTUGAL
PRODUCTIVITY
1° UNITED KINGDOM
2° GERMANY
3° FRANCE
4° ITALY
5° SPAIN
OPERTATING PROFIT
1° UNITED KINGDOM
2° BULGARIA
3° ROMANIA, POLAND, REP.CECA, UNGHERIA
4° ITALY, GERMANY
SPAIN
5° FRANCE
7
A picture of the fashion system in the main specialized countries: a
comparison on 9 variables
Number of
enterprises
Turnov er or
gross
premiums
w ritten (mil.€)
Number of
persons
employ ed
Number of
persons
employed per
enterprise
Av erage
personnel costs
(personnel costs
per employ ee) (€)
Share of
personnel costs
in production (%)
Apparent labour
productiv ity (Gross
v alue added per
person employ ed) (€)
Inv estment per
person employ ed
(€)
Operating profit
(Gross operating
surplus/turnover) (%)
Italy 63.359 78.064 494.161 8 25.147 16% 37.587 3.374 7,9%
Spain 19.526 13.673 121.191 6 22.762 21% 31.361 1.682 7,6%
Poland 19.364 5.101 168.000 9 6.032 22% 9.211 980 10,5%
France 16.742 21.047 118.527 7 37.048 26% 48.331 2.996 6,4%
Portugal 15.264 8.119 169.174 11 10.998 24% 13.660 1.383 5,5%
Czech Republic 14.775 2.760 58.537 4 8.607 20% 13.456 2.351 10,3%
United Kingdom 7.725 10.970 93.914 12 22.750 22% 44.100 2.678 18,2%
Germany 7.496 24.213 141.138 19 34.691 22% 47.346 4.474 7,4%
Romania 7.034 4.143 252.453 36 4.267 27% 5.981 872 10,4%
Bulgaria 5.390 1.664 134.472 25 2.952 24% 4.444 584 12,1%
Hungary 4.685 1.333 44.941 10 6.446 25% 9.481 1.137 10,2%
The structure of
fashion system
for field of
specialization
Distribuzione % dei settori
per numero di occupato
(totale paese = 100)
8
9
12
22
23
28
28
33
37
45
56
58
79
64
54
50
44
57
40
40
44
31
30
12
25
24
27
28
15
27
23
11
13
12
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%
Bulgaria
Romania
Hungary
Portugal
Italy
Poland
Spain
France
Czech Republic
Germany
United Kingdom Manufacture of textiles
Manufacture of wearing apparel
Manufacture of leather and related products
THE ROLE OF ITALY
9
A F O C U S O N P RO D U C T I O N S Y S T E M , E M P L OY M E N T,
G RO W T H , S TA R T I N G F RO M DATA O N P RO D U C T I O N A N D
S A L E S
The Italian contribution to the European fashion system
10
21%23%
33%
43%
28%
55%
35%
27%
50%
Manufacture of wearing apparel
Manufacture of textiles Manufacture of leather and related products
(% share of EU-27 employed)
(% share of EU-27 turnover)
(% share of EU-27 value added)
11
Italian performance during the crisis (2008-2014) through sales results
8989
82
106
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
2008 2010 2012 2014
Manifaturing
TotalDomestic marketNon domestic market
9090
84
101
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
2008 2010 2012 2014
Manufacture of textiles
TotalDomestic marketNon domestic market
8881
72
100
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
2008 2010 2012 2014
Manufacture of wearing apparel
TotalDomestic marketNon domestic market
98
116
91
97
105
141
50
70
90
110
130
150
2008 2010 2012 2014
Manufacture of leather and related products
TotalDomestic marketNon domestic market
Family consumptions: a comparison between purchase behaviors in clothes
and footwear on the average families expenditure
12
13
International exchanges in fashion system during the crisis
in billion of Euro
16,2
11,3 11,4
13,116,6
18,4
15,2
40,9
33,1
37,3
42,043,1
45,0
39,6
24,7
21,8
26,0
28,9
26,5 26,6
24,4
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014/M10
SALDO EXPORT IMPORT
(+4,1%)
(+7,5%)
(-1,0%)
BALANCE
of trade
Long term occupational dynamics in the fashion system, before and during
crisis (year 2000 = 100)
14
MANUFACTURING
FASHION SYSTEM
15
A framework of the TAC economy after 5 years of crisis: some numbers to
describe the current production and occupational system
• TURNOVER 2013 and % share in manufacturing total 77 bn (9%)
• EXPORT 2013 and % share in manufacturing total export 45 bn (12%)
• % share export EXTRA-UE28 49%
• Trade balance and % share in manufacturing total balance 18,4 bn (19%)
• PERSON EMPLOYED 2013 and % share in manufacturing 487.000 (13%)
• % Share person employed in micro enterprises (< 9 unit) 29%
• % share women (29% share woman in manufacturing total) 58%
• Enterprises and % share MICRO enterprises (<9 unit) 63.000 (82%)
8 variables to describe
the structure of Italian
labour forces in the
fashion economy
16
24
43
58
66
86
88
91
0,0 20,0 40,0 60,0 80,0 100,0
Quota % GIOVANI (15 - 34 anni)
Quota % occupati con diploma o
titolo superiore
quota % DONNE
Quota % occupati con qualifia
ricoducile alla categoria degli operai o artigiani specializzati
Quota % DIPENDENTI
Quota % di occupati a tempo pieno
Quota % dipendenti a tempo
indeterminato
Employees/
total employed
Permanent employees/
total employees
Share employees full time
Share of women
Share of young (15–34 age)
Share of workers and
worker craftsman
share of employed with
diploma and higher
qualification
The informal work: the fashion system ranking on the overall manufacturing
17
0,531,01 1,13
2,27 2,502,91
4,65 4,91 4,92 4,96
6,396,93 7,12
10,11
Far
mac
eutic
a
Mac
chin
ari e
altr
e ap
pare
cchi
atur
e
App
arec
chia
ture
ele
ttric
he
Met
allu
rgia
Mez
zi d
i tra
spor
to
Com
pute
r e p
rodo
tti d
i ele
ttro
nica
e o
ttic
a
TO
TA
LE M
AN
IFA
TTU
RIE
RO
Altr
e in
dust
rie m
anifa
tturie
re
Raf
finaz
ione
del
pet
rolio
Alim
enta
re, b
evan
de e
taba
cco
Gom
ma
-pla
stic
a e
min
eral
i non
met
allif
eri
Chi
mic
a
Legn
o, c
arta
, edi
toria
Tes
sile
, abb
iglia
men
to, p
elle
e c
alza
ture
Quota % unità di lavoro irregolari sul totale unità di lavoro% share irregular employees in total fashion system
Map of employment
in fashion industry:
the first 11 regions
on the overall Italy
18
22%
19%
15%
8%
7%
9%
5%
3%
5%
Lombardia Piemonte
Veneto
Emilia Romagna
Toscana 2%
Marche
Umbria Abruzzo
Puglia
Campania
2% Lazio
97%
Regional
specialization: sub-
sector distribution of
the employees in the
11 Regions
characterized by the
fashion production
presence
19
39,7
31,4
48,0
30,0
65,2
38,4
43,0
66,0
67,1
70,0
61,5
48,6
25,8
16,6
5,3
16,8
57,6
11,6
12,0
16,1
22,8
25,3
11,7
42,8
35,4
64,7
18,0
4,0
45,4
22,0
16,7
7,1
13,3
Lombardia
Toscana
Veneto
Marche
E.Romagna
Piemonte
Campania
Puglia
Abruzzo
Umbria
Lazio
wearing apparel textiles leather and related products
Fashion production supply chain structure in Italy clustered by dimensional
characteristics: occupational distribution for number of employees
20
35%
25% 26%29%
25%
35%
35%
44% 37%
30%
14%
26%
20%19%
22%
16% 15%11%
14%
23%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
manufacture of wearing apparel
manufacture of textiles
manufacture of leather and related
products
TOTAL Manufacturing
250 >
50-249
10-49
< 9
21
Il tessile abbigliamento nel mondo
Export markets for Italian fashion system
in milion €Fashion
systemShare
EUROPE 30.671 68%
Country UE 22.890 51%
Country non UE 7.781 17%
di cui: Russia 2.314 5%
AMERICA 3.969 9%
Country Nort America 3.468 8%
Country center-south America 502 1%
AFRICA 1.135 3%
Country nort Africa 930 2%
ASIA 8.970 20%
di cui: China - Hong Kong 3.959 9%
WORLD 44.975 100%
Strategies of development and policy priority over the
crisis 22
Scenario, development
trajectories and weaknesses of
the system
Some scenario
elements
23
The FASHION economy is a
context in evolution
New geography of markets production
and more competition of new
industrialized countries
Shift in consumption
from the advanced
countries to the new
industrialized ones
New technological opportunities
and their consequences on the increase of the spheres of utilization of
textile product Extension of the
intangible contents that
consumer expects from the fashion
product
Growth of the environmental
constraints and of the social corporate
responsibility in order to play a
role on the market
The rise of the thresholds to the access to the market due to
the growth of the competition, the
increase of the costs, the increase of the
production complexity, the lack of financial
resources
24
New technological opportunities
Growing of the integration among
production, creativity and selling
Enlargement of consumption
markets
Evolution of the costs in the new
industrialized countries
Extension of the immaterial contents
Growing of the sustainability constraints
Increasing in the numbers of consumers
Downsizing of batches in the
market
Increasing of the transport costs
Reduction of markets time
The MADE-in effect
The value of the personal skills and
competences
Quality of the production
Decrease in the global geo-
economic stability
Value of social responsibility
An operational definition of the main trajectories of changes
25
Transformations in the market and new challenges for the fashion system: some general
trajectories
To speed the process of STRATEGIC REPLACEMENT to the high technological and
immaterial content in a enlargement of markets
framework
To activate organizational, commercial and marketing actions able to generate a
borders geographical expansion in order to reach
the NEW INDUSTRIALIZATION
MARKETS
To intensify the activity of INNOVATION with an action on all technological, creative,
commercial and organizational environments that contribute to built the value of the product and intensify the investment
activities of SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE
To access to NEW ADMINISTRATIVE,
ORGANIZATIONAL AND NETWORKING FORMS
consistent with the increasing complexity of the markets, the density of the contents of the textile product, and the most stringent constraints efficiency
26
Fragmentation of the productivity system
(share of employed in enterprises with 50 employees or more)
Apparent productivity
(value added per employees) manufacturing= 100)
Intensity of fixed investments
(Investment per unit value added) manuf = 100
Export share to markets of newly industrialization
(export to country of newly industrialization/total export)
Intensity of innovation activity (% enterprises with 10 employees or more that have introduced innovation in
the last three years)
Spread of ICT in enterprises (% enterprises with 10 employees or more with website)
Intensity of training activity
(% enterprises that have done training)
Spread of irregular work (% irregular employees on total employees)
FASHION SYSTEM
33%
72
68
30%
50%
59%
31%
10%
MANUFACTURING
45%
100
100
31%
59%
77%
53%
4,6%
Main weaknesses of the Italian TAC system from which it will be possible to
develop an action to support the occupational growth and the competitiveness
27
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