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Ideas for Knitting Gifts:

9 Free Patterns for Knitted Gifts

to Make

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IDEAS FOR KNITTING GIFTS: 9 FREE PATTERNS FOR KNITTED

GIFTS TO MAKE

A Knitting Daily eBook edited by

Kathleen Cubley

E D I T O R I A L S T A F F

EDITOR, KNITTING DAILY Kathleen Cubley

C R E A T I V E S E R V I C E S

PRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice TapiaPHOTOGRAPHY As noted

ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Interweave Knits and Knitting Daily do not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor does Knits or Knitting Daily evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evalu ating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knits or Knitting Daily.

Contents

Cabled Globe Ornament by Eunny Jang. . . . . . . . . . . .PAGE 3

Chevron Market Bag by Kristen TenDyke . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 5

Winter Twilight Mitts by Laura Rintala . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 8

Slouch Hat by Simona Merchant-Dest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 10

Two-Color Hat Pattern by Andrea Wong . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 16

Juliet Scarf by Louisa Harding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 19

Nerina Scarf by Kristin Omdahl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 21

Honeycomb Socks by Katie Himmelberg . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 25

Nordic Striped Ball by Lisa Shroyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE 27

Ideas for Knitting Gifts: 9 Free Patterns for Knitted Gifts to Make

KNITTERS ARE GIVING PEOPLE, AND WE LOVE PATTERNS THAT HELP US KEEP UP OUR SUPPLY OF KNITTED GIFTS! I’ve gathered nine patterns here that are great for holiday knitting, birthday knitting, or just random act of kindness knitting. I hope you enjoy them!

Eunny Jang’s Cabled Globe Ornament is the perfect stocking stuffer for everyone on your gift list. Knit several to decorate a single tree, and try using a metallic yarn for a really special result!

Kristen TenDyke’s Chevron Market Bag uses a dense lace motif of interconnecting points and chevrons to create a fabric that stretches but retains strength. Give this bag along with some tokens from your local farmer’s market for a gift that will keep on giving!

Laura Rintala’s Winter Twilight Mitts were inspired by a purple overcast sky showing through the black silhouettes of winter trees as she walked along the trail one winter afternoon. The luxurious cashmere yarn is a joy to knit with and a delight to wear.

Simona Merchant-Dest’s Fair Isle hat is a thing of beauty. The colorwork will thrill whomever receives this thoughtful gift. As a bonus to the knitter, the Slouch Hat will teach you how to work Fair Isle patterns seamlessly without a visible jog between rounds.

The Two-Color Hat by Andrea Wong made its debut on Knitting Daily TV, where Andrea used it to demonstrate two-color knitting in the Peruvian style. To learn more about the Portugese style of knitting, check out Andrea in action! And not to worry, the Two-Color hat can also be knit in the traditional stranded-colorwork style.

Louisa Harding’s Juliet Scarf is light and airy, knitted in a soft, luxurious angora blend. A rosette brooch adds a feminine touch while holding the scarf in place. The perfect length to tuck inside a collar, this floaty lace piece makes a beautiful knit gift for a special woman in your life.

The Nerina Ruched and Ruffled Scarf by Kristin Omdahl is cinched with a pair of satin cord drawstrings that are tied with double uni-knots. Tie it loosely around your shoulders for a little capelet, tighten the drawstrings a bit for soft ruffles, or cinch them all the way for a heavily ruffled collar or cowl. This versatile gift will be worn for years.

Socks are a wonderful gift, and the Honeycomb Socks by Katie Himmelberg are lovely. Katie chose the traditional Aran honeycomb pattern for its simplicity and geometric appearance. Changing the main pattern stitches from knit stitches to purl stitches makes the hexagons stand out even more.

What collection of knitted gifts would be complete without something for a little one? Lisa Shroyer got the idea for her Nordic Striped Ball from Vibeke Lind’s Knitting in the Nordic Tradition (Sterling, 1998). This project will become a treasured plaything.

Have fun knitting every stitch of these knit gifts!

Cheers,

Kathleen CubleyEditor, KnittingDaily.com

http://www.knittingdaily.com/media/p/87773.aspx




Copyright Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Chevron Market Bag Kristen TenDyke

knittingpatterns

Originally published in Interweave Knits, Spring 2010

Kat

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Mar

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CHEVRONMARKET BAGK r i s t e n T e n D y k e

Finished Size 28" circumference and 15" tall, not including strap.Yarn Nashua Handknits Creative Focus Cotton (100% mercerized cotton; 93 yd [84 m]/50 g): #24 ivory, 7 balls. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers. Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 48 rows = 4" in purl brioche st.

Stitch GuideSl 1 yo (counts as 1 st): Bring yarn to front between needles, sl 1 pwise, wrap yarn over needle to back of work to complete yo, then place yarn in correct position to work the next st (depending on what next st is—knit, purl, or yo). Brk1: K2tog (slipped st and its companion yo).

Purl Brioche Stitch in Rows: (multiple of 2 sts + 1)Set-up row: (RS) Knit.Row 1: (WS) K1, *sl 1 yo (see Stitch Guide), k1; rep from * to end.Row 2: (RS) K1, *brk1 (see Stitch Guide), k1; rep from * to end.Row 3: K2, sl 1 yo, *k1, sl 1 yo, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.Row 4: K2, brk1, *k1, brk1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.

Purl Brioche Stitch in Rounds: (multiple of 2 sts) Rnd 1: *P1, sl 1 yo, rep from * around.Rnd 2: *K1, brk1; rep from * around.Rnd 3: *Sl 1 yo, p1; rep from * around.

Rnd 4: *Brk1, k1; rep from * around.Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

BaSeCO 15 sts. Work purl brioche st in rows (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 111/4" from CO. BO all sts.

BaGWith RS of base facing, cir needle, and beg at beg of BO edge, pick up and knit 14 sts along BO edge, 56 sts along side edge, 14 sts along CO edge, then 56 sts along 2nd side edge—140 sts total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in purl brioche st in rnds (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 2" from pick-up rnd, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. Work Rnds 1–12 of Lower Brioche chart once. Work Rnds 1–14 of Lace chart 4 times. Work Rnds 1–14 of Upper Brioche chart once. Work in purl brioche st in rnds for 1". Next rnd: Work 15 sts in patt, BO 55 sts pwise, work 15 sts,

then slip these 15 sts to a holder for strap, BO 55 sts pwise—15 sts rem on needle for strap. Cont in patt (purl brioche st in rows) over these 15 sts until strap measures 15" from bag BO, ending with a RS row. Place sts on holder. Transfer 15 held sts to needle, join yarn, and work as for first strap. Join two ends of strap with three-needle BO (see Glossary).

FiNiShiNGCord: With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work I-cord (see Glossary) for 30". BO all sts. Block pieces to measurements. Thread I-cord through eyelets at highest point of upper brioche patt. Tie an overhand knot at each end of cord. Tie in bow. Weave in ends.

Kristen TenDyke is a designer and technical editor. She uses her graphic-design degree in her job with Classic Elite Yarns, and it also comes in handy when she self-publishes her patterns online at www.kristentendyke.com.

Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third needle into first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Three-Needle Bind-Off

I-CordWith double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. *With-out turning the needle, slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches as usual; repeat from * for desired length.

KRISTEN TENDYKE’S CHEVRON MARKET BAG uses a dense lace motif of interconnecting points and chevrons to create a fabric that stretches but retains strength. Right-leaning, left-leaning, and centered decreases are sometimes chained to form strong diagonals and sometimes stacked for vertical lines, with adjacent yarnovers to create open areas and balance the fabric. YaRN Nashua Handknits Creative Focus Cotton, distributed by Westminster Fibers




k2tog

ssk

yo

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

k1tbl

*sl 1 pwise wyb,replace m, cont working sts as shown

pattern repeat

sl 1 yo (counts as 1 st)

brk1: k2tog (yo and sl st)

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

k2tog

ssk

yo

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

k1tbl

*sl 1 pwise wyb,replace m, cont working sts as shown

pattern repeat

sl 1 yo (counts as 1 st)

brk1: k2tog (yo and sl st)

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

14 st repeat

13*

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Lace

14 st repeat

11*

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Lower Brioche

14 st repeat

13*

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Notes u These mitts are worked one at a time, working the chart as normal (reading right to

left) across the first half of the stitches, then working the remaining stitches reading the chart left to right.

MitteNWith MC, CO 64 sts. Divide evenly over 4 dpn, place marker (pm), and join in the rnd. Work in 2×2 rib for 11⁄2". Change to St st and beg Twilight Trees chart, working right to left across chart on first 32 sts, then working left to right across the second 32 sts. Work through Rnd 35. Thumb gusset: Work first 32 sts according to chart, pm, [M1] 2 times (see Glossary), pm, work rem 32 sts from chart. Cont in patt through Rnd 66 of chart—96 sts.

S1 32 thumb sts to holder. Cont in patt on rem 64 sts through end of chart. Ribbing: With MC only, work in 2×2 rib for 1⁄2". BO in rib. Thumb: Sl 32 thumb sts onto dpn. With MC and beg at inside of thumb, pick up and knit 1 st in thumb gore, knit all thumb sts while dec 6 sts evenly spaced around, pick up and knit 1 st in thumb gore, pm and join in the rnd—28 sts. Work in 2×2 rib for 1⁄2". BO in rib. Weave in loose ends, block lightly.

LauRa RinTaLa is managing editor of Interweave Knits.

Finished Size 6" hand circumference and 9" long. Yarn Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 2-ply (100% cashmere: 400 yd [366 m]/55 g): #30 la nuit (black; MC) and #015 smokey mountain (purple multi; CC), 1 skein each.needles Size 11⁄2 (2.5 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.notions Tapestry needle; stitch holder; markers (m).Gauge 36 sts and 47 rnds = 4" in stranded colorwork.

Winter tWilight Mitts

L a u R a R i n T a L a

Raised (M1) increases

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1




3-st repeatWork across chart from right to left,then from left to right for each rnd.

MC

CC

M1 with MC

Marker

M1 with CC

Pm *

M1

M1

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Twilight Trees




Joe

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knittingpatternsTM

Slouch HatSimona Merchant-Dest




Slouch hatby Simona Merchant-Dest

This Fair Isle hat will teach you how to work Fair Isle patterns seamlessly without a visible jog between rounds. There are a number of ways to achieve this—in this case, the beginning of the round shifts one stitch to the left every round. When working from a charted pattern, the challenge of this technique is to keep the pattern correctly aligned throughout the piece. Once you’ve learned this technique, you can apply it to all of your seamless knitting.

Finished Size About 19 (201/4, 211/4, 221/2)" (48.5 [51.5, 54, 57] cm) circumference, and 81/4" (21 cm) high for all sizes.Hat shown measures 211/4" (54 cm).Yarn DK weight (#3 Light).Shown here: Rowan by Amy Butler Belle Organic DK (50% organic wool, 50% organic cotton; 131 yd [120 m]/50 g): #008 peony (MC), 2 skeins for all sizes; #016 cilantro (CC1) and #014 robin's egg (CC2), 1 skein each for all sizes.Needles Hat: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of 5 double-pointed (dpn).Ribbing: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 16" cir.Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 27 sts and 30 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in patt from Fair Isle charts using larger needles, worked in rnds.

DeSign techniqueSThe Jogless Jog in Fair Isle Patterns, page 6.Increasing stitches equally spaced, page 6.

tipS & trickS• Change to double-pointed needles when

there are too few stitches to fit comfort-ably around the circular needle.

• Carry unused colors along the wrong side of hat until they are needed again, twist-ing them together with the working color every other round to prevent long floats from forming.

• After the increase round, place markers after every 16 (17, 18, 19)th stitch to iso-late the Fair Isle chart repeat for your size. These markers are slipped every round and remain in place to define the pattern, inde-pendent of how the end-of-round marker moves for the "jogless jog" technique.

hatWith MC and smaller cir needle, CO 108 (116, 124, 132) sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep from *.Rep the last rnd until piece measures 11/4” (3.2 cm) from CO.Inc rnd: With MC, *[k5 (5, 6, 6), M1 (see Glossary)] 3 (1, 4, 2) time(s), [k6 (6, 7, 7), M1] 2 (4, 1, 3) time(s); rep from * 3 more times—128 (136, 144, 152) sts.Change to larger needle. Following the chart with the 16 (17, 18, 19)-st rep, work Rnds

1–52 of the chart for your size, working the chart 8 times total in each rnd—8 sts rem for all sizes after completing Rnd 52.

FiniShingCut yarn, leaving a 10” (25.5 cm) tail. Thread MC tail on a tapestry needle, draw through all rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and secure on WS.Weave in loose ends.

Make It YouRS

Depending on your size, copy the chart pattern that repeats over 16, 17, 18, or 19 stitches onto graph paper and draw in your own colorwork design. To prevent long floats, do not work more than five stitches of the same color at a time and do not work more than two or three stitches at the end of the chart in the same color.

To see how your pattern will appear when repeated across a row, make a few photocopies of the chart and align them side by side, then make any desired adjustments to the chart before you start knitting.

15.15.




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16-Stitch Fair Isle

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17-Stitch Fair Isle

MC, knit

CC1, knit

CC2, knit

k2tog with color shown

ssk with color shown

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso with MC

no stitch

pattern repeat

MC, knit

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no stitch

pattern repeat




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18-Stitch Fair Isle

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19-Stitch Fair Isle

MC, knit

CC1, knit

CC2, knit




no stitch

pattern repeat

MC, knit

CC1, knit

CC2, knit




no stitch

pattern repeat




Figure 2

Make 1 (M1) Increases


Left SLant (M1L) and Standard M1With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

For purl versions, work as above, purling lifted loop.

Figure 1

Figure 2Figure 1

PurL (M1P)

right SLant (M1r)

Abbreviations beg beginning; begin; begins bet between Bo bind off cc contrasting color cm centimeter(s) cn cable needle co cast on cont continue(s); continuing dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing dpn double-pointed needle(s) foll following; follows g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of same st k2tog knit two stitches together kwise knitwise lc left cross m(s) marker(s) Mc main color mm millimeter(s) M1 (p) make one (purl) M1r (l) make one right (left) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of same st p2tog purl two stitches together patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches over pwise purlwise rc right cross rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing rnd(s) round(s) rS right side rev sc reverse single crochet sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless oth-

erwise indicated) ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,

k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts

tog tbl (decrease) st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over * repeat starting point (i.e., repeat

from *) * * repeat all instructions between

asterisks ( ) alternate measurements and/or

instructions [ ] instructions that are to be worked

as a group a specified number of times

glossary




The Jogless Jog in Fair Isle PatternsWhen working Fair Isle patterns, in which each round is composed of two colors, the jogs are less visible than in stripe patterns. In the swatch shown in Figure 1, the rounds begin on the ninth stitch of the pattern. While it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly where the jog occurs, there is a bit of telltale skewing in the general area. If this is too much distortion for your liking, you have a couple of options.

If the Fair Isle pattern is vertical in nature, you can conceal the jog by working the first and last stitch of every round in the same color to cause a vertical break in the pattern. The eye will not be able to see any difference between the end of the pattern on one side of this vertical line and the beginning of the pattern on the other. Ideally, you’ll want to incorporate similar vertical breaks between motifs so that the one at the beginning of the round doesn’t stand out as a singular oddity in the pattern.

If the Fair Isle pattern is predominantly horizontal, a solid vertical line might be even more distracting than the jog. If so, try the following technique, which is a modification of the slip-stitch method introduced by TechKnitter.

Round 1: Knit to the end of Round 1 of the pattern, slip the end-of-round marker, slip the next stitch purlwise, then place the color-change marker on the needle.

Round 2: Beginning with the second stitch of the chart, work Round 2 to the end-of round marker, slip this marker, work the first stitch of Round 2, remove the color-change marker, slip the next stitch purlwise, return the color-change marker to the needle.

Round 3: Beginning with the third stitch of the chart, work Round 3 to the end-of-round marker, slip this marker, work the first two stitches of Round 3, remove the color-change marker, slip the next stitch, return the color-change marker to the needle.

Continue in this manner, always beginning the chart one stitch to the left, working to the end-of-round marker, working the next batch of stitches according to the stitches of the chart that haven’t been worked yet to the color-change marker, temporarily removing the color-change marker, slipping the next stitch purlwise, then replacing the color-change marker.

If it’s important to keep track of where the round originally began, use a separate color-change marker to keep track of the shifting chart pattern. You might find it helpful to make a color photocopy of the chart and use a highlighter to track the progression of the color-change marker as it travels one stitch to the left each round.

Spacing Increases and Decreases Evenly Across a Row or Round

To determine how to evenly space increases or decreases, divide the number of stitches on your needle by the number of stitches that you want to increase or decrease. For example, if you have 115 stitches and you need to increase 8 stitches, you’d divide 115 by 8:

115 stitches ÷ 8 stitches to increase = 14.375 stitches

In other words, you’ll want to increase every 14.375 stitches for an even distribution of the increases. It’s not possible to increase within partial stitches, but this number tells you that you’ll place most of the increases every 14 stitches and increase every 15 stitches a couple of times. The difference between working some increases at 14-stitch intervals and a few at 15-stitch intervals is unlikely to be noticeable in the garment.

If you are working in rows, you’ll want to position the first and last increases (or decreases) at least one stitch in from the selvedge. To prevent the last increase being made in the selvedge

stitch, divide the first 14-stitch interval in half, working the first increase after just 7 stitches so that the last increase will be worked 7 stitches in from the end of the row.

Depending on the type of increase you use, you’ll either increase in the 14th stitch or after the 14th stitch. For example, knitting in the front and back of a stitch (k1f&b) requires one stitch to be involved in the increase and you’d work the increase in the 14th stitch; making a yarnover or working into the horizontal strand between two stitches (as in a raised make-one increase), doesn’t involve any of the existing stitches and you’d work the increases after the 14th stitch.

When working decreases, remember that two stitches are required to work a decrease (k2tog or ssk, for example). This means that you would work 12 stitches, then work the 13th and 14th stitches together to end up with one stitch decreased in 14 stitches.

Figure 1For the first 6 rounds, there is an uncorrected jog at the beginning of the round. For the remaining rounds, the jog is obscured by moving the first stitch of the round to right one stitch every round.




Knitting Daily Hat

www.andreawongknits.com ©2011 Andrea Wong Knits

TWO-COLOR HATA n d r e a W o n g

This hat is designed to be knit in the Portuguese style, which tensions yarn by running it through a pin attached to the

knitter’s shoulder, or simply by putting the working yarn around one’s neck.

Purling is very easy in the Portuguese style, so the Two-Color Hat pattern directs you to knit the hat inside-out, purling instead of knitting.

If you want to knit this in the traditional stranded-color style, just knit the two rows after you finish the ribbing (instead of purling them) and you’ll be on the right track.




General Information:

Abbreviations:

K = knit

P = purl

P2tog = purl two sts together

SSP = slip next 2 sts from left needle as to knit, place them back on left needle and work them together through the back loop.

Experience Level: Intermediate. Experience with two color knitting preferred.

Skill: stranded knitting

Wool Hat (Charcoal and White)

Size: adult medium (21”/53.3 cm circumference)

Materials: 2 skeins of Creme by Crystal

Palace Yarns (60% wool, 40% silk - 50 g/124 yards [115 m] each): Color A, # 01 off white, and Color B, # 20 charcoal.

Needles: one 16 inches circular needle US # 7 (4.5 mm), one set of double pointed needles same size (or size to obtain gauge).

Gauge: 18 sts and 28 rounds = 4” (10 cm) in St st

How to make it:Using knitted on cast on and MC, cast on 96 sts. Join it being careful to not twist stitches. You may choose to use the cross over join or cast on one extra stitch and work the first two stitches together. Place marker and work K1, P1 for 10 rounds.Purl 2 rounds.Join CC and follow 19 rounds of chart.

Top: Divide hat in four 24 sts segments putting a safety pin on every 24th st. You are now going to decrease for the top of the hat as follows:

Round 1: P to 2 sts before marked st, P2tog, P1, SSP.

Round 2: P

Repeat round 1 and 2 until you have half of the number of sts. Then work round 1 only until you have 14 sts total. Cut a 8” tail and weave it through all remaining sts. Pull it tight and weave end.Weave all ends.

Alpaca Hat (White and Blue)

Size: adult medium (21”/53.3 cm circumference)

Materials: 2 skeins of worsted weight Frog Tree Alpaca (100% Alpaca ): Color A #000 off white and Color B # 031 blue

Needles: one 16 inches circular needle US 9 (5.5 mm), one set of douple pointed needles same size (or size o obtain gauge).

Gauge: 5 sts and 24 rounds = 4” (10 cm) in color pattern.

How to make it:Using knitted on cast on and MC, cast on 84 sts. Join it being careful to not twist stitches. You may choose to use the cross over join or cast on one extra stitch and work the first two stitches together. Place marker and work K1, P1 for 10 rounds.Purl 2 rounds.Join CC and follow chart.

Top:

Divide hat in four 21 sts segments putting a safety pin on every 21st st. You are now going to decrease for the top of the hat as follows:Round 1: P to 2 sts before marked st, P2tog, P1, SSP.Round 2: P

Repeat round 1 and 2 until you have half of the number of sts. Then work round 1 only until you have 12 sts total. Cut a 8” tail and weave it through all remaining sts. Pull it tight and weave end.Weave all ends.






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Finished Size

About 6½" (16.5 cm) wide and 37" (94 cm) long.

Yarn

DK weight (#3 Light).

Shown here

Louisa Harding Kimono Angora Pure (70% angora, 25% wool, 5% nylon; 125 yd [114 m]/25 g): #1 rice (tan), 1 ball.

Needles

U.S. size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions

Tapestry needle; one ½" (1.3 cm) mother-of-pearl button; brooch back (available from craft or jewelry-supply store).

gauge

20 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in lace patt.

notes

* The scarf shown here uses only one ball of yarn; knit the rosette first to ensure that you have enough yarn to complete it. Then work the scarf until the remaining yarn is used up.

* The needles used for this pattern are larger than indicated on the ball band. To change the scale of the lace pattern, use a different weight of yarn, but use a larger needle than usual for the yarn.

This light and airy scarf is knitted in a soft, lux-urious angora blend. A rosette brooch knitted in the same sumptuous yarn and finished with a dainty mother-of-pearl button adds a feminine touch while holding the scarf in place. The per-fect length to tuck inside a collar, this floaty lace piece is warm and delicate at the same time.

juliet scarf

Rosette

CO 112 sts.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K2, *k1, slip this st back onto left needle, lift the next 8 sts over this st and drop from needle, knit the first st again, k2; rep from * 9 more times—32 sts rem.

Work short-rows (see box) as foll:

ShoRt-Row 1: K24, wrap and turn, k24.



Break yarn. Thread tail through rem sts, pull tightly to create a rosette, and secure with a few over-cast stitches.

This pattern originally appeared in Knitting Little Luxuries by Louisa Harding (Interweave, 2007).




scaRf

CO 31 sts. Knit 1 row. Work Rows 1–12 of lace chart, or work Chart Rows 1–12 below, until piece measures 37" (94 cm) from CO, or desired length, ending with a WS row, then proceed to final row.

ChaRt Row 1: (RS) K6, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k2—32 sts.

ChaRt Row 2: K2, p9, k2, yo, k2tog, p9, k2, yo, k2tog, k4.

ChaRt Row 3: K6, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k2, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k3, yo, k2—33 sts.


ChaRt Row 5: K6, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k5, yo, k2—34 sts.


ChaRt Row 7: K6, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1—33 sts rem.


ChaRt Row 9: K6, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, ssk, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2tog, k1—32 sts rem.


ChaRt Row 11: K6, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2tog, k1—31 sts rem.


Final rowKnit 1 row, then BO all sts kwise.

finishing

Sew button at the center of the rosette. Sew brooch back to back of rosette. Pin rosette to scarf. -

Work to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and bring yarn in position for next stitch, wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit stitch: On right side,

work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put on left needle. Purl them together.

Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch

Figure 2

Figure 1

Find more

great designs in

Knitting Little Luxuries

published by

Interweave Press

(2007)

bookEXCERPT

k on RS, p on WS

p on RS, k on WS

k2tog on RS

k2tog on WS

ssk

sl 1, k2tog, psso

yo

pattern repeat

k on RS, p on WS

p on RS, k on WS

k2tog on RS

k2tog on WS

ssk

sl 1, k2tog, psso

yo

pattern repeatk on RS, p on WS

p on RS, k on WS

k2tog on RS

k2tog on WS

ssk

sl 1, k2tog, psso

yo

pattern repeat

k on RS, p on WS

p on RS, k on WS

k2tog on RS

k2tog on WS

ssk

sl 1, k2tog, psso

yo

pattern repeat




Joe

Han

cock

knittingpatternsTM

Nerina Ruched and Ruffled ScarfKristin OmdahlOriginally published in Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2011

Nerina Ruched and Ruffled Scarf originally published in Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2011.




nerinaruched and ruffled scarf

finished size

About 7½" (19 cm) wide and 54" (137 cm) long, ungathered.

yarn

Worsted weight (#4 Medium).

shown here: Blue Sky Alpaca Suri Merino (60% baby suri alpaca, 40% merino; 164 yd [150 m]/100 g): #419 Crimson, 2 skeins.

needles

Size U.S. 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

notions

12 yd (11 m) 1⁄8" (3 mm) diameter satin cord; tapestry needle.

gauge

19 stitches and 33 rows = 4" (10 cm) in ruched pattern.

This ruffled scarf is cinched with a pair of satin cord drawstrings that

are tied with double uni-knots (one of my favorite types of fishing

knots). The scarf is knitted in a reversible ribbed pattern with regu-

larly spaced short-rows to produce the ruffles along the edges. The

holes created by the short-row turns provide eyelets through which

the satin cords are threaded. Depending on how tightly the drawstrings

are cinched, the ruffles contract from open and loose to a dense, thick

mass. Tie it loosely around your shoulders for a little capelet, tighten

the drawstrings a bit for soft ruffles, or cinch them all the way for a

heavily ruffled collar or cowl.

materialsnote

• Do not wrap stitches when working the short-row turns; the holes are used for lacing the drawstring.




Double Uni-KnotThe double uni-knot, used for tying flies, is surprisingly easy to make. One of the best features is that you can cut the tails right next to the knot.

Lay the two strands parallel to each other on a flat surface. Bring the tail of the lower strand back on itself to make a loop, then cross it over the upper strand (Figure 1). Wrap the short end around both strands three times, bringing it to through to the front of the loop on the third wrap (Figure 2). Pull on both ends of this strand to tighten the knot (Figure 3). Wrap the upper strand in the same manner (Figure 4), then tighten both ends (Figure 5).

The rippling texture in this two-row pattern is beautiful when flat but pops into luxurious ruffles when cinched with the drawstrings. The short-rows may be a bit of challenge at the begin-ning, but you’ll enjoy watching the ruffles emerge from the technique.

ScarfCO 36 sts.

Set-up row: Knit.

rowS 1 and 3: P10, turn, k10, turn, p10, *k3, p10, turn, k10, turn, p10; rep from * once more.

rowS 2 and 4: Knit.

rowS 5 and 7: K10, turn, p10, turn, k10, *k3, k10, turn, p10, turn, k10; rep from * once more.

rowS 6 and 8: P10, *k3, p10; rep from * once.

Rep Rows 1–8 until scarf measures about 54” (137 cm) from CO. Loosely BO all sts.

FinishingWeave in loose ends. Wet-block and pin to finished measurements. Let air-dry completely before removing pins.

TiesCut the satin cord into two 6 yd (5.5 m) lengths. Beg at one short edge, weave one cord in and out of the holes formed by the short-row turns on one side of the garter-st center, across the middle ruffle edge, and back down the other side in a U path as shown in Threading Diagram on the next page. Tie the ends of the cord in a uni-knot as described in box at right. Beg at the other short edge, weave the other cord in and out of the rem short-row holes.

figure 1

figure 2

figure 3

figure 4

figure 5




page 4

hole

first cord, threaded over top

first cord, threaded under

second cord, threaded over top

second cord, threaded under

uni-knot

Nerina Threading Diagramhole

first cord, threaded over top

first cord, threaded under

second cord, threaded over top

second cord, threaded under

uni-knot

Nerina Threading Diagram

Threading Diagram




SockToe: Using the Eastern method (see Glos-sary, page 2), CO 12 sts over 2 dpn. Knit 1 rnd. Distribute sts in the foll order: 3 sts on Needle 3, 3 sts on Needle 1, 6 sts on Needle 2. Needles 1 and 3 make up sole sts; Needle 2 makes up instep sts; rnd beg at center of sole. Knit across sts on Needle 3 to reach new beg of rnd. Next rnd: Nee-dle 1: K2, M1 (see Glossary), k1; Needle 2: k1, M1, k4, M1, k1; Needle 3: k1, M1, k2—4 sts inc’d. Rep last rnd on every rnd until there are 48 sts. Next rnd: Knit. Next

rnd: Rep Inc rnd. Rep last 2 rnds until there are 76 sts. Work even in St st (knit every rnd) until toe measures 21⁄4". Foot: Needle 1: K19; Needle 2: k3, *p3, k2; rep from * to end of needle; Needle 3: k19. Cont as established, working instep sts in rib and sole in St st, until foot measures 6¼" from tip of toe, or desired total length minus 21⁄4". Heel: Sl first st on Needle 3 to Needle 2, and last st on Needle 1 to Needle 2—36 sole sts rem for heel. Heel is worked back and forth on these 36 sts only. You may want to transfer instep sts to 2 dpn or a length of waste yarn to make working the heel easier. Row 1: (RS) Cont with Needle 3, knit across Needle 1 to last st, sl last st to Needle 3, turn, leaving last st unworked—all 36 heel sts are on one needle (Needle 3).Row 2: (WS) Yo backward (see Glossary),

purl to last st, turn, leaving 1 st unworked. Row 3: Yo as usual, knit to paired sts made by yo on previous row, turn, leaving rem 3 sts unworked. Row 4: Yo backward, purl to paired sts made by yo on previous row, turn. Row 5: Yo as usual, knit to paired sts made by yo on previous row, turn. Rep Rows 4 and 5 until there are 16 sts between innermost yos. Second half of

heel: Cont with RS facing (having just ended with a RS Row 5, first 2 sts on left needle are a knit st/yo pair), work as foll:Row 1: (RS) K1, correct the st mount of the yo (so right leg of st is the leading leg), and k2tog (yo and knit st of next pair), turn. Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, purl to paired sts made by yo of previous row, p1, ssp (yo and purl st of next pair; see Glossary), turn. Row 3: Yo as usual, knit to paired sts made by yo on previous row, k1, correct the st mount of the foll 2 yos, k3tog (2 yos and knit st of next pair), turn. Row 4: Yo backward, purl to paired sts made by yo on previous row, p1, sssp (2 yos and purl st of next pair; see Glossary), turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all the yos of the first half have been consumed—no sts left unworked at end of last Row 4. Rejoin for working in the rnd: (RS) Yo as usual, knit to yo at end of heel sts, sl yo to next needle, k2tog (yo and first st of instep sts), work in rib patt to last instep st, ssk (last instep st

Honeycomb SockS

KaTie Himmelberg loves quirky details and out-of-the-ordinary designs. She lives a fashionable and funky life in small-town Northern Colorado, in a bun-galow full of vintage finds.

Finished Size 81⁄2" foot circumference with rib relaxed and 81⁄2" long from tip of toe to back of heel. To fit an adult large, with adjustable foot length. See Notes. Yarn Wooly West Footpath (85% wool, 15% nylon; 175 yd [160 m]/60 g): yarrow, 2 skeins. Needles Size 1 (2.5 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); cable needle; tap-estry needlegauge 16 sts and 24 rnds = 2" in St st; 20 sts and 21 rnds = 2" in k2, p3 rib; 21 sts and 23 rnds = 2” in honeycomb patt.

K a T i e H i m m e l b e r g

Stitch GuideHoneycomb Pattern: (multiple of 12 sts)Rnd 1: *Sl 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k3, p3 from cn; sl 3 sts to cn and hold in back, p3, k3 from cn; rep from * to end.Rnds 2–5: Work sts as they appear (knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts). Rnd 6: *Sl 3 sts to cn and hold in back, p3, k3 from cn; sl 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k3, p3 from cn; rep from * to end.Rnds 7–10: Work sts as they appear. Rep Rnds 1–10 for patt.

NoteSu For more information on toe-up socks, see Ann Budd’s Beyond the Basics in the Summer

2007 issue of Interweave Knits. u The foot circumference of these socks is looser than that for an average woman's sock. With

the rib completely relaxed, the circumference measures 8½"; however, the rib is very elastic and the foot easily spreads to 9½" in circumference.




and yo from beg of heel sts)—76 sts again. Rnd now beg at side of leg, before start of heel sts. Work 16 rnds even in patt (St st on back of leg, rib patt on instep). Inc rnd: [M1] 7 times evenly across St st portion, [M1] 6 times evenly across front of sock in knit columns—89 sts. Next rnd: P2, M1P

(see Glossary), *k5, M1, p5, M1P; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3—108 sts. Work Rnds 1–10 of honeycomb patt (see Stitch Guide) 2 times, then rep Rnds 1–5 once more. Next

rnd: Purl. Dec rnd: Purl and dec 20 sts even-ly around—88 sts rem. Dec rnd: Purl and dec 16 sts evenly around—72 sts rem. [Knit

4 rnds, purl 3 rnds] 2 times. Knit 8 rnds. BO all sts loosely using the sewn method (see Glossary). Weave in loose ends. Tighten up CO sts at toe if necessary.

Slip three sts knitwise, one at a time, and purl tog through the back loops.

Sssp

Figure 1 Figure 2

Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together through back loops (Figure 2).

Ssp Decrease

Hold two dpn parallel to each other. Leaving a 6” (15 cm) tail, wrap the working yarn around both needles counterclockwise (Figure 1) half as many times as the number of stitches you want. For example, if you want to cast on 12 stitches, wrap the yarn around the two needles six times. To begin, bring the yarn forward between the two needles and use a third needle to knit across the wraps on the top needle (Figure 2). Rotate the two needles so that the needle that had been on the bottom is now on the top; use the free needle to knit across the wraps on that needle (Figure 3).

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

eastern Cast-On

Sewn bind-OffCut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off and thread onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, *insert tapestry nee-dle purlwise (from right to left) through first two stitchess (Figure 1) and pull the yarn through, then bring needle knitwise (from left to right) through the first stitch (Figure 2), pull the yarn through, and slip this stitch off the knitting needle. Repeat from *.

Figure 1

Figure 2

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).


raised (m1) increases

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 1 Figure 2

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles, from back to front (Figure 1). Purl lifted loop (Figure 2).

Purlwise (M1P)

Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1

Yarnover backwardUsually, yos on the purl side are worked by bringing the yarn from the front over the top of the needle to the back, then under the needle to front again (Figure 1). In working a short-row heel, yos are worked in the opposite direction. Bring yarn under needle to back, then over needle to front again, and continue purling row (Figure 2).

Figure 2

Figure 1




Nordic Striped Ballby Lisa Shroyer

FiNiShed Size:About 23" circumference, stuffed.

YarN:Manos del Uruguay Wool Clásica (100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/100 g): #U red-brown (red) and #F green, 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.

NeedLeS: Size 10 (6 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NotioNS: Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook; waste yarn; marker (m); tapestry needle; polyfill stuffing.

GauGe:16 sts and 16 rnds = 4" in stranded stripe patt. Stuffing will distort gauge; gauge is not critical for this project.

SkiLL LeveL:Easy.

Kat

hryn

Mar

tin




Nordic Striped Ball

L i s a S h r o y e r

Finished Size About 23" circumference, stuffed.Yarn Manos del Uruguay Wool Clásica (100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/100 g): #U red-brown (red) and #F green, 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.Needles Size 10 (6 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook; waste yarn; marker (m); tapestry needle; polyfill stuffing.Gauge 16 sts and 16 rnds = 4" in stranded stripe patt. Stuffing will distort gauge; gauge is not critical for this project.

BallWith crochet hook and waste yarn, chain (see Glossary) 121 sts. Fasten off. With cir needle, green, and red, pick up and knit 120 sts along back of chain (picking up 1 st in each bump) as foll: *Pick up and knit 2 sts with green, pick up and knit 2 sts with red; rep from * to end, leaving last ch unworked—120 sts. With RS still facing, place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in St st, working stripes as established (2 sts green, 2 sts red), for 5 rnds. Shape ball:Dec Rnd 1: *K2 green, sssk with red (over 2 red sts and 1 green st), k1 green, [k2 red, k2 green] 2 times, k2 red, k1 green, k3tog with red (over 1 green st and 2 red sts); rep from * 5 more times—96 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear.Dec Rnd 2: *K2 green, ssk with red (over 1 red st and 1 green st), [k2 red, k2 green] 2 times, k2 red, k2tog with red (over 1 green st and 1 red st); rep from * 5 more times—84 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear.

Dec Rnd 3: *K2 green, ssk with red (over 2 red sts), k1 red, k2 green, k2 red, k2 green, k1 red, k2tog with red (over 2 red sts); rep from * 5 more times—72 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear. Change to dpn when necessary.Dec Rnd 4: *K2 green, sssk with red (over 2 red sts and 1 green st), k1 green, k2 red, k1 green, k3tog with red (over 1 green st and 2 red sts); rep from * 5 more times—48 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear.Dec Rnd 5: *K2 green, ssk with red (over 1 red st and 1 green st), k2 red, k2tog with red (over 1 green st and 1 red st); rep from * 5 more times—36 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear.Dec Rnd 6: *K2 green, ssk with red, k2tog with red; rep from * 5 more times—24 sts rem.Work 1 rnd even, working sts in colors as they appear.Dec Rnd 7: *K2 green, k2tog with red; rep from * 5 more times—18 sts rem.Dec Rnd 8: K1 green, *k3tog with green (over 1 green st, 1 red st, and 1 green st); rep from * 5 more times, working first green st of foll rnd as part of last k3tog—6 sts rem; all sts are now green.Dec Rnd 9: [K2tog with green] 3 times— 3 sts rem.

Break yarns, leaving long tails. Thread green onto tapestry needle and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts, knot red and green tails tog and secure to WS of ball. Second half of ball: Carefully remove crochet chain and place live sts onto cir needle. Because of the nature of the original CO and alternating colors, and the offset of sts when reversing direction, there will only be 60 live sts on needle—1 st per 2 st stripe; colors alternate as foll: 1 st green, 1 st red. With tips of needle positioned to beg rnd at green stripe that marked beg of rnd when working first half of ball, work an inc rnd as foll: *With green, pick up strand before green st on needle and work an M1 inc with this strand, k2tog (green st on needle with strand that follows it), pick up red strand before red st on needle and work an M1 inc with this strand, k1 red (red st on needle); rep from * around—120 sts: sts alternate 2 green, 2 red. Pm and join in the rnd. Work 5 rnds in established stripe patt. Shape ball: Work as for first half of ball, beg with Dec Rnd 1. As hole beg to shrink, stuff ball with polyfill. Stuff heartily, putting more stuff-ing in than seems necessary and shaping ball as you go. After Dec Rnd 7, stuff hole to the top and push stuffing down so you can work the last rnds. Finish as for first half, sinking tails into ball.

FiNiShiNGRoll ball around on floor to even out shape.

CroChet ChaiN (Ch)

Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw it through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed.

GloSSarY

Lisa Shroyer is the editor of Interweave Knits. She works from her home in Chapel Hill, North Carolina.


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