housing the signs of a healthy cockatiel are: cockatiel guide... · cockatiel care guide fly every...
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Cockatiel care guide
fly every day will keep your bird happier, healthier
and fit.
Cockatiels are known for their mimicking skills and can
be taught simple phrases.
Take your time and interact with your bird daily and
you will be rewarded. You will get to know your bird’s
signals, such as head bending when it wants a pet.
Your bird will love your company.
Moulting
Your cockatiel will have its first moult between six to
12 months of age and after that a couple of times a
year. This is an unhappy time for your bird and it will
require extra care during this period.
This process takes between four to eight weeks and
during this time your bird will be more susceptible
to changes of temperature so make sure that its
environmental temperature is stable. Your bird will
need more protein during this time and this can
be delivered by a soft egg-based supplement or
conditioning food.
A vitamin supplement during this phase is also
recommended. Growing new feathers takes a lot out
of a cockatiel.
Grooming and health
Cockatiels love to bathe and a cold-to-tepid bath of
about 2cm depth can be provided two to three times
per week. Remove this after about an hour. Always
do this in the mornings allowing your bird to dry off
during the day. Increase this to daily during your bird’s
moult. Alternatively you can use a water mister or
grooming spray.
Nails should be trimmed by a qualified person.
You should worm your indoor bird every six months or
every three months for your outdoor aviary birds.
Housing
It is best to provide the largest habitat that you can
afford. A minimum size for one cockatiel is 60cmW x
45cmD x 60cmH. The bars on the cage should be no
wider than 1.25cm apart.
Perches need to be a variety of textures, widths and
lengths. This variety will exercise your bird’s feet and
aid in the prevention of arthritis. It also more closely
simulates life in the outdoors.
A metal grate over the bottom of the cage will help to
keep the bird off its droppings.
Cage placement
Keep your bird in the part of the house that is lived
in and include your bird in your family. Keep it out of
drafts and off the floor.
Cover your bird’s cage at night to prevent “night
fright”. Cockatiels need about 12 hours of rest a night.
Cage care
Follow these simple rules to ensure the best possible
care for your cockatiel:
Don’t place food or water containers
underneath the perches – this will prevent
possible contamination
Avoid cooking near your bird with non-stick
cookware as these can release harmful fumes
Clean and disinfect the cage and perches regularly
Replace food and water daily
Remove uneaten vegetables after 24 hours
Replace perches, dishes and toys once worn
or damaged
Rotate toys regularly to avoid boredom
Make sure there are no parts or toys in your bird’s
cage that are lead, lead-base painted, zinc or
galvanised metal.
The signs of a healthy cockatiel are:
Active, alert and sociable
Dry nostrils and bright eyes
Beak, legs and feet should look normal
Eats and drinks regularly
Has smooth, well groomed feathers.
The signs of an unhealthy cockatiel are: Sitting on the floor of the cage or low on the perch
Wheezing or coughing
Eye or nasal discharge
Fluffed, plucked or dirty feathers
Diarrhoea or discoloured stools
Red or swollen eyes
Favouring one foot
Red eyes, tearing or closed and puffy eyes
Appetite loss.
If you notice any of these signs please contact your veterinarian immediately.
Good sized cage
Cage cover
Seed or pelleted food
Variety of perches
Treats
Grit
Food and water dishes
Grooming spray
Millet spray
Variety of toys
Cage liners
Bird bath
Vitamin supplement
Chew toys
Books about care
Cuttlefish/mineral block.
Recommended supplies
This Australian native is a very
popular family pet. They are easy going
and can be great mimics. Like all pets they require daily
attention.
Use this checklist to make sure that a cockatiel is right for you and your family
I have the appropriate location and housing for
this pet
I will provide a safe environment for this pet
I realise that owning this bird will be a long term
commitment (up to 15 years)
I can provide daily supervised time outside of its
cage for my bird
I am aware that birds can be vocal and this is
acceptable for my family and my neighbours
An adult can provide primary care for this pet.
Average size: 30cm (including tail)
Life span: 12 to 15 years
Feeding
High quality bird seed or a pelleted diet should make
up about 70% of your cockatiel’s intake. The remainder
should consist of fresh vegetables and fruits (see the
safe food list). Cockatiels do tend to be fussy eaters
and can become set in their “food ways” later in life.
So when you introduce a variety of fruits, vegetables
and treats at a young age it makes feeding later in life
much easier.
Perseverance is key here. Offer fruit and vegetables
every day and your bird will eventually learn to love
them. They are an essential part of your bird’s diet so it
is important that you are patient. Fresh vegetables and
fruits not eaten within 24 hours should be discarded.
Limit the amount of sunflower seed in the diet as this
is extremely high in fat. If you wish to change your
bird’s diet at any stage make sure that you do this over
the course of a few weeks. Sudden dietary changes can
cause digestive problems, so keep an eye on your birds
weight, stools and general well-being during this time.
Water needs to be chlorine free, always available and
changed daily.
Like us, cockatiels appreciate quality and variety in
their food.
necessary if your bird is on a premium pellet diet as
these are already vitamin and mineral rich.
Treats
Birds need a wide variety of treats to alleviate
boredom, help them to work for their food and
exercise their minds.
Treats should consist of no more than 10% of your
bird’s diet. These can include honey bells, honey sticks
and millet spray.
Behaviour, exercise and taming
There is no quick fix or fast track when it comes to
taming your bird. It takes patience, consistency and
gentleness.
When you first get your bird home and settled in its
new cage, start slowly by talking gently to your bird,
sitting near it and generally including it in your life.
Don’t put your hand into your bird’s cage to try to
get it out; this will most probably result in a bite.
Remember that the cage is your bird’s sanctuary
and it needs to feel completely safe there.
Tempt your bird with a treat held by you at the cage
bars. Once it is happy to accept this try opening the
cage front door to tempt it out this way. You can even
put some sunflower seeds into the palm of your hand
and let it eat from this.
Be careful once the bird is out of the cage that all
curtains are closed, mirrors are covered, doors are
shut and other pets are away from the area. Getting
your bird’s wings clipped is a good idea during the
training phase. Ask our staff for details.
Always get your bird back into its cage before it gets
tired – sit your bird on your hand for this. The last
experience outside of its cage should always be a
positive one.
Once accustomed to you and the environment, your
bird should be exercised daily by letting it out for a fly
and socialising with your family. Allowing your bird to
The following is a collection of fruit, vegetables and other food that you can feed your bird. Fresh food should be thoroughly rinsed first.
Apples (no pips)
Apricots
Banana
Broccoli
Brussel sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot tops
Cauliflower
Celery
Cooked egg (occasionally)
DO NOT FEED lettuce, avocado, rhubarb,
chocolate, alcohol, fruit seeds or caffeine as
these can make your bird very ill. If in doubt
about a food, don’t feed it!
Cooked pasta (occasionally)
Corn
Dark green leafy vegetables
Oranges
Peaches
Pears (no pips)
Peas
Popped corn
Silverbeet
Supplements
We recommend putting a vitamin and mineral
supplement (Ornithon), in your bird’s water, especially
during moulting or in times of stress. This is not