herne hill #133 (winter 2015)

HERNE HILLT H E M A G A Z I N E O F T H E H E R N E H I L L S O C I E T Y❧ I S S U E 1 3 3❧ W I N T E R❧ 2 0 1 5 ❧ £ 2

▶ Success of Fun Palace in Brockwell Park - Turn to 7

DAY PALACE REIGNED

▶ A new musical arrival in Dulwich Road - Turn to Pages 14-15

CRAFT BASS BUT NOT BEER

Get your copy

todayStation and RAILTON ROAD GET AN UPGRADE

FROM RUSTIC TO MODERN

▶But will the refurbishment work? See Pages 5 & 9

▶ Secrets of the Norwood Road shops - See Pages 12-13

Herne Hill-Winter 20152

THE COMMITTEEPresident Bill KirbyChair Colin Wight [email protected] Chair Laurence Marsh [email protected] Jeff Doorn [email protected] Rosalind Glover [email protected]

Committee John Brunton Stephen Carlill Ian McInnes Sheila Northover Elizabeth Ochagavia Jackie Plumridge Pat Roberts Val Suebsaeng

Magazine Mike Richards

COMMENTS & ENQUIRIESTo advertise in the Magazine [email protected] contribute to or comment onthe Magazine [email protected] comment on planning or licensing issues [email protected] order a publication [email protected] enquiries [email protected] history enquiries [email protected] Hill notice boards [email protected] [email protected] safety [email protected] issues [email protected]

Postal and online addressesThe Herne Hill Society, PO Box 27845, LONDON SE24 9XA

hernehillsociety.org.uk facebook.com/hernehillsocietyTwitter @hernehillsoc

Copy deadline for the autumn issue is 1 February, 2016.Opinions expressed in the Magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily of the Herne Hill Society Committee, which likewise does not approve or endorse the quality or suitability of any goods or services advertised in the Magazine.

THE HERNE HILL SOCIETY

CONTENTSNew threat to Carnegie Library 3Awards for the Society 3Blight of rubbish in two boroughs 4Congratulations to the Peckham Society 4Station upgrade 5Street trees in Southwark 5Black Georgians in Brixton 6&7Long lost sundial 7Railton Road refurbishment 9Open house innovation 8&9Dulwich Notebook review 9Herne Hill on the West End stage 11From rustic to modern 12&13Craft bass but not beer... 14&15Transport news 16Day the palace reigned 17Eye-opening show 19Phlegm 19Lambeth Architecture book review 21Planning & Licensing 8

Diary of EventsHerne Hill Society and other events 18

Councillors & MPList of contacts 18

ADVERTISINGAdvertising space is available in this magazine at the following rates for four issues over one year: Quarter page: £55 Half page: £110 Full page, including back page according to availability: £230 Please supply your own artwork. For further details, email [email protected]

Herne Hill-Winter 2015 3

The Society was, once again, a winner at the London Forum of Amenity and Civic Societies Media Awards.

The restoration of the Brockwell Park Clock Tower was the winner of the ‘Saving Heritage Features’ category. Congratulations to the Friends of Brockwell Park who conceived the project.

The new edition of Herne Hill Heritage Trail, together with this magazine, was joint runner-up in the category ‘Promoting Local History’. The original Herne Hill Heritage Trail, published in 2003, was a winner a decade ago, while our website won its category in 2013.

This year’s awards were

presented by Rowan Moore, architecture critic of the Observer.

The London Forum represents the views and interests of over 150 local societies in London on issues such as town planning, heritage and transport. Their Media Awards are held every two years.

On 2 October Lambeth announced new proposals for libraries and parks. Carnegie and two other libraries would be handed to Greenwich Leisure Ltd (GLL) at a peppercorn rent for 25 years. The building would be closed for at least nine months then reopen mainly as a gym. There would also be a lounge which would contain a “small selection of books including a children’s book offer” and some computers. There would not be any library staff. Lambeth describe this provision as “a neighbourhood library”.

The announcement came just 10 days before being agreed by Lambeth’s Cabinet on 12 October, as part of its Culture 2020 programme. All three of the Borough’s MPs are opposed to the scheme. Helen Hayes and several other speakers argued cogently against the plans at the Cabinet meeting. Despite this and a large and vocal audience echoing the objections, the plan was accepted.

The Friends of Lambeth Libraries and individual Friends groups are opposing these plans. The decision has now been called in, requesting Lambeth’s Overview and Scrutiny Committee to refer it for reconsideration. Those opposed to the proposals will be mounting further challenges.

We are told the conversion works will start in April. However, as no outline floor plans or further details have been published, we may have to wait until January to see these. There appears not

creeping loss of heritage, there is a question of what would happen to it should its proposed new role prove not to be viable. In its present form it is well suited to its uses as a 21st-century public library, to provide space for people starting their own businesses and for local artists to display their work.

Thanks to its excellent, dedicated professional staff, the Carnegie is the fourth busiest library in the borough and second in the rate of growth in membership, visits and borrowing. Carnegie Library is thriving.

to have been any market research or assessment of demand. Carnegie Library is already a healthy living centre. It offers yoga, pilates, gardening and flexible space for various clubs, workshops and cultural events. The library gives wellbeing to all including the most vulnerable.

An aspect which will be of particular concern to many Herne Hill Society members is that conversion to a gym will require extensive interventions in the fabric of this Grade II Listed building. Hence planning consent for the necessary changes could well be a problem. Apart from the

A NEW THREAT TO CARNEGIE LIBRARY

More recognition for the Society

NEWS

CARNEGIE IN ACTION: The library could be closed for at least nine months


BLIGHT OF Rubbish IS STILL AMAJOR ISSUE IN TWO BOROUGHS

NEWS

The ongoing problem of dumped and uncollected rubbish was a major topic at the Forum Public Meeting on 8 October.

There is widespread unhappiness, and even disgust, about the amount of fly-tipping across Herne Hill, as well as the poorly organised collection of commercial waste from the shops and businesses.

An analysis of the different ways our two boroughs deal with rubbish and recycling was presented, showing a wide difference in the collections of household waste. Southwark collects rubbish and items for recycling bi-weekly, whereas Lambeth collects every week. Both boroughs collect garden and food waste weekly, although Lambeth charges £30 for 6 months for this service, and extra for the bags. Southwark collects both together in one large bin at no extra charge.

A simple idea: if Lambeth followed Southwark’s example (ie both general and rubbish and recycling collected bi-weekly), that would release money for improvements to the community, with more street collections, alongside the necessary education of the public.

There are also differences in the arrangements for bulk waste disposal. Southwark will allow only their residents to leave waste at their depot, while Lambeth does not check which borough you live in.

As far as commercial waste is concerned, I am sure that most people in the room were surprised to find out that there are as many as 10 different companies collecting from the traders in Herne Hill. This

inevitably results in chaos, with too many bins emptied on different days and times; and in most cases, nowhere to store them off the street. They attract more refuse bags, which in turn attract feral and wild animals, and so the waste gets strewn about our streets.

Some ideas for solving these problems were put forward.

Join the Rubbish Task Force: be the councils’ eyes on the street. If you have a smartphone, install the FixMyStreet app and report and send photographs of rubbish directly to the

relevant council. Other ways of reporting rubbish can be through either council’s website, or by telephone 020 7926 9000 (Lambeth) 020 7525 2000 (Southwark).

Join the Traders Collective: remove all the large bins from the streets. All traders to use the same provider and negotiate regular collections of bags at, ideally, two regular times each day.

The councils work together: representatives of both Lambeth and Southwark were present and sitting next to each other in the room, so there

are hopes that they can work together to solve the problems.

Introduce economic recycling for traders. Currently they have to pay extra for this service.

Introduce recycling in Brockwell and other parks, and make sure general bins are emptied at the end of the day, not the beginning after the foxes have found any edible waste. The topic was discussed thoroughly, and a good number of traders were present and responded positively to ideas put forward. What do you think? Let us know please.

Sheila Northover

The Peckham Society held a well-attended 40th anniversary celebration on 7 October at All Saints Church, Blenheim Grove.

Speakers included Chairman Peter Frost, founder member Bob Smyth, prolific local historian John Beasley and architect Benny O’Looney (who

earlier this year gave an excellent talk to the Herne Hill Society. John Brunton, Colin Wight and Ian McInnes (as Chair of the Dulwich Society) were among the invited guests.

Colin recalled how, when he first

came to London in the 1980s, no-one wanted to admit living in Peckham, preferring to cite East Dulwich or Nunhead. How things have changed!

He himself celebrated his Silver Wedding at Frank’s Café, which sits

proudly on top of a multi-storey car park in Rye Lane.

A major challenge for the Peckham Society will be how to attract SE15’s young, talented and relatively wealthy new inhabitants to carry on the good work.

Most, if not all, amenity societies, including our own, face that same challenge.

Congratulations to the Peckham Society

Panoramic view from Frank’s Café


Herne Hill Station upgrade

NEWS

Street trees in Southwark

The good news is that the funding agreement for Southeastern’s scheme (delayed for some four months) has now been signed off.

The budget of £1.7million will come from the National Stations Improvement Programme, with small-scale additional funding from the Railway Heritage Trust.

So Southeastern can finally begin the tender exercise for the following works:

On the ground floor:l refurbished exterior, including the

restored canopy, which is currently off-site;l reconfigured booking hall, creating

more space for users;l new ticket office with ticket windows

compliant with the Equality Act;

l enlarged café or shop with customer information screens, and additional CCTV

On the platforms:l platform one and two — repositioned

and improved gents’ toilets; new ladies’ toilets behind staff office; new accessible toilets; new information window for passengers; café/waiting area moved to the centre of the building, with café-style seating

l platform three and four — relocated station manager’s office (from one/two); relocated accessible toilets; refurbished waiting room with more seating

l customer information screens in waiting rooms

l additional CCTV

In Herne Hill Newsletter No 131 we reported that there would be a new ticket barrier gateline, This now does not form part of the project and is shown on the drawing only to help the design process - in the event that funding can be secured to install it.

The major part of the construction work will take place in the second half of 2016, with the final handover in April 2017.

Southeastern MD and local resident David Statham says: “Herne Hill is a station close to my heart. And indeed close to my home. So it’s good news that we are able to start work refurbishing it and provide a better gateway to all the great things Herne Hill has to offer.”

We applied to Southwark’s Cleaner, Greener, Safer Fund 2014-15 for replacement street trees, and were delighted to be awarded £5,000.

Since then we have been working with the Project Officer to decide where to plant in the roads between Herne Hill and Half Moon Lane. Many of the locations, identified by us, were deemed unsuitable, but together we came up with 14 potential sites in Carver Road, Ruskin Walk, Hollingbourne,

Elfindale and Frankfurt Roads. Unfortunately, the award was reduced to only £3,500 available, which means that instead of 10 trees at £500 each there will be only seven spread thinly between those roads. This is disappointing, but we intend to reapply and continue regreening the streets.

We spent some time going through the ‘tree palate’

issued by the Tree Officer and chose the most interesting and attractive we could, keeping round-the-year colour, wildlife value and eventual size in mind. We know the residents nearest the sites will be consulted about their tree, so we wait with interest to see what is eventually planted in January.

In Lambeth the situation is more difficult, with officially

no money for street trees, but we hope that groups of neighbours will work together to raise money for their street, as has happened in the last year in Rollscourt and Cosbycote Avenues.

As we write, plans are afoot, supported by the Society, for a residents’ initiative to fill some of the gaps in Fawnbrake Avenue. Please contact us for advice if you want to get involved.

Laurence Marsh and Sheila Northover


LITTLE SEEN LIVES INCompelling Brixton show challenges stereotypes of British Georgian society

Some of the

elements of the

fascinating exhibition

at the Black

Cultural Archives

in Brixton

NEWS

W e tend, lazily, to think that the presence of people of African origin in these islands – and

certainly here in south-east London – dates from the post-World War II Windrush era. That is partly true, as regards significant numbers; but well wide of the mark historically.

This absorbing and important exhibition, which opened at the Black Cultural Archives in Brixton in October and runs until 9 April next year, reveals a fascinating and important hinterland stretching back to the Georgian period (1714 –1830) — a time of Enlightenment, economic growth, social opportunity and change, huge wealth for some, dire poverty for others; and of course enslavement for millions.

The exhibition has been researched and inventively curated by writer and historian S I Martin, who has specialised in Black British history. It challenges, gently and without polemic, many stereotypes about the place of black people in British society 200-plus years ago. And it thereby brings to life one more fascinating chapter in the rich

and varied social and ethnographic story of these islands — a story which the history books used by our grandparents tended to assume were inhabited by homogenous white races.

In the Georgian era, inevitably, many black people arrived here as slaves, bought and sold, to work as domestic servants.

CURATOR AND EDUCATOR: S I Martin


BLACK HISTORY

‘We wanted to show lives that included but transcended stories of enslavement’

NEWS

Others, though, were British-born free men and women, managing not only to survive in the hard social conditions of London and other great port cities but also, for some of them at least, finding a settled and respected place in a society that initially tended to disparage them.

As individual outsiders and small communities in a predominantly white and often xenophobic nation, they all pursued their individual search for personal identity, with varying results, and in ways that members of a majority community may not easily imagine.

On the one hand there were successful black boxers like Tom Molineux and Bill Richmond, whose exploits

initially shocked the prevailing notions of white supremacy.

At another extreme there were wealthy black individuals who had in some cases inherited ownership of property and businesses, including even slave-owning plantations, in the West Indies: some of

them moved in upper social circles. Some achieved freedom by enlisting in the Navy or the Army, then settled and educated their children here. Others, like Olaudah Equiano from Nigeria, bought their freedom and not surprisingly campaigned actively for the abolition of the slave trade.

Many of course remained domestic servants, living and dying in humble circumstances; though a few became celebrated, like Francis Barber from Jamaica, valet and later companion and friend to the great lexicographer Samuel Johnson. Through documents, pictures and words, the exhibition, though not large, succeeds in telling their stories and those of many others; succeeds, too, in changing our received view of this country’s history.

This intelligent and cleverly put together exhibition is highly recommended. An audio guide is available.l ‘Black Georgians – The Shock of the Familiar’ ends on 9 April 2016, Black Cultural Archives, Windrush Square, Brixton. Open Tues–Sat. www.bcaheritage.org.uk

Pat Roberts

S I Martin, who curated the Black Georgians exhibition, is an author, historian and educator specialising in Black British history and literature.

His previous work includes Britain’s Slave Trade for Channel 4 Books, an accompaniment to the Windrush documentary which charted the progress of three black exiles living

in 18th-century London.

Explaining his aims in putting together this exhibition, he said: “Black Georgians was designed, firstly, with the intention of introducing new audiences to the fact of a Black presence in Georgian Britain. Black histories in Britain commonly start with the arrival of the Empire Windrush in 1948.

“Secondly, we wanted the visitor to engage with a spectrum of Black Georgian lives (from runaways to the High Sheriff of Monmouthshire) by way of demonstrating a set of life trajectories that included, but also transcended, stories of enslavement.

“The exhibition takes the visitor along three corridors: birth & arrival, life and

death. Issues of identity, class, roles played by Black women and the nature of political organisation feature in all of these sections. The final section ‘Unfinished Conversations’ is an introduction to four of the most prominent Black writers from the period as well as an invitation to contribute to the debates raised by the exhibition.”

There must be many people who have walked through Ruskin Park and wondered why there is a short pedestal standing near the old stable block. Those who have studied their Herne Hill Heritage Trail will know about Mendelssohn and how the column used once to support a sundial. Sadly, it disappeared many years ago.

But what did it look like? An image in Lambeth Archives from about 1912 shows no detail. So I was delighted to learn very recently of the existence of a documentary film made almost 50 years ago where, admired by a group of children, the face of the sundial is clearly to be seen. Around the dial are the words “Here stood the house where Mendelssohn wrote the Spring Song. 1842”. The house was 174 Denmark Hill, demolished when Ruskin Park was laid out in 1906–07 and previously the home of the Benecke family.

Mendelssohn’s wife Cecile was a niece of Henriette Benecke. Henriette and her husband Frederick William, both originally from Germany, had six children. Making music at home was a regular part of family life. Its importance can be seen in the fact that when Benecke senior gave his eldest son a violin, it was a Stradivarius made in 1694, an instrument that remained in the family for some 80 years and which is now known as “The Benecke”.

My thanks to Sheila Northover and David Whyte for drawing my attention to the 1963 documentary. You can find it on the BFI website at http://player.bfi.org.uk/film/watch-changing-face-of-camberwell-1963. It gives a fascinating view of a Camberwell embarking on an era of great change.

Laurence Marsh

The tale of a long lost sundial


PLANNINGTelecoms equipment outside 294 Croxted RoadThe saga goes on: we reported last time that Southwark had agreed that the large telecoms box installed outside the Umana Yana café did need planning permission as it was larger than allowed by the regulations.

However, subsequently the applicants told Southwark that because of the size of the plinth, which can be deducted from the size of the cabinet, it was allowable. Your intrepid planning correspondent went and measured the plinth and found out that the applicants had misinformed Southwark.

This fact was communicated to the Council who decided to treat my emails as a formal complaint. This was not what had been asked for and now after a series of unsatisfactory email exchanges the new MP and ward councillors have become involved.

54 Mayall RoadThe Society objected to a large roof extension at this property and it has been turned down by Lambeth.

Cressingham GardensThe Society has continued to work with other local groups to seek to ensure that the future redevelopment of this estate off Tulse Hill does not impact adversely on Brockwell Park. A meeting was held in October with Lambeth officers to discuss the proposals.

Network Rail application – shops in Railton RoadThe Society submitted comments on the application to refurbish a number of shops and upper floors at the Brockwell Park end of Railton Road.

While welcoming the principle of refurbishment, the Society was concerned about the detail of the shopfronts and the increase in the area to be given over to restaurant use. The application has been approved subject to a number of conditions about materials for the shopfronts and rubbish collection.

Herne Hill Neighbourhood PlanWork has continued on the preparation of a submission to both Southwark and Lambeth to define the area for the preparation of a local plan for Herne Hill under the auspices of the Herne Hill Forum. There has been discussion with other local forums, including Tulse Hill, West Norwood and Loughborough Junction Action Group about exactly where the boundary should be and at the time of writing the boundary has not been agreed.

Once the submission is made there will be a six-week consultation period and after that there will need to be work undertaken on the drafting of local policies. If any Society member would like to help with this please email [email protected]

LICENSINGDee Dee’s, 77 Herne HillAs reported in the last issue of this Magazine, the owner of Dee-Dee’s has lodged an appeal against changes to his Premises Licence imposed by Southwark’s Licensing Sub-Committee, following a review carried out last July. The date of the appeal has been set for 24/25 February 2016 at Camberwell Magistrates Court. The Society will be represented at the hearing.

Bullfinch Microbrewery, Arch 887, Rosendale RoadAn application was submitted for a premises licence for this recently established micro-brewery.

While not formally objecting to the application, the Society submitted comments expressing concerns about possible disturbance to nearby residents from noise, including film shows as well as live and recorded music being played both inside and outside the premises.

The applicant subsequently amended the application to remove the provision for live and recorded music and films. The hours for the supply of alcohol were also amended to between 12.00 and 22.00, Monday to Sunday. At a hearing held on 11 November Lambeth’s Licensing Sub-Committee agreed to grant the licence in this amended form.

David Taylor / John Brunton

Planning & Licensing

DULWICH POT & PLANT GARDEN12B Red Post Hill, SE21 7BX. 020 7733 3697

www.dulwichpots.co.uk

POTSTraditional and Contemporary

Exterior and InteriorTerracotta, Glazed, Polystone, Metal, Ceramic,

Terrazzo, Fibreglass.

PLANTSTrees, Shrubs, Roses, Grasses, Herbaceous,

Perennials, Annuals and Herbs.

COMPOSTSMultipurpose, Peat Free, John Innes,

Ericaceous, Pebbles, Slate, Gravel, Grit.

SHOPHouse Plants, Indoor pots, Tools, Seeds,

Bulbs and horticultural supplies.

Local delivery available.Free parking outside North Dulwich Station

Innovative approachThe annual Open House weekend opens doors that are usually shut for the rest of the year.

One example is a house at 15b Herne Hill Road. It provides a good example of how innovative and sustainable building techniques can create

something remarkable in two storeys of an ordinary end-of-terrace house.

It is the home of young architect Colin MacInnes, who has carried out all the design and building work himself. A key element of the project is the use of recycled


Railton Road refurbishment

shows the possibilities in Victorian renovation

NEWS

In September, Network Rail were granted permission for the refurbishment of their properties at the end of Railton Road.

The seven retail units that back on to the railway viaduct will, under the new scheme, be reduced to five, with the second-hand furniture shop and baker’s merged as one premises, likewise the butcher’s and (former) fish shop.

There will be changes in the class of use allowed. The current launderette and kebab shop will now have general retail use, the butcher’s and fish shop will acquire restaurant/café use and the upper floors above the launderette and greengrocers will acquire

residential use (currently only the floor above the launderette is used residentially). A further element in the scheme is the reopening of the premises directly under the bridge. There used to be a newsagents there some 20 years ago. The entrance was bricked up but the archway is still visible.

In their comments on the planning application, the Society welcomed the principle of restoring these buildings,

but also expressed concern about an overly uniform approach adopted for the new shopfronts, which they thought did not reflect the diversity characteristic of Herne Hill.

They also pointed to the value of surviving heritage shopfronts, in particular in the case of the fish shop. Since the permission imposes detailed conditions regarding design and materials used, it is hoped that in practice the new shopfronts will enhance the streetscene.

Concern was also expressed about the increased area given over to restaurant use through the merging of two units. Herne Hill offers a broad mix of retail and other uses and the

Society would like to see this retained. It was also felt that, while the creation of some extra residential space was welcome, Network Rail were missing an opportunity. As part of the refurbishment, the central three units could have been raised and new flats created.

It is hoped that the final designs for the shop fronts will be agreed by the end of this year. Site work could then start in April 2016, and the project completed at the end of 2016 or the start of 2017.

In the longer term the Society would like to see serious consideration being given to the creation of a conservation area covering the end of Railton Road/Station Square.

materials. There is widespread use of wooden pallet boards, which are painted, also of hundreds of wooden laths from lath-and-plaster walls removed during the project.

The top floor that was under a mansard roof

has been reconstructed and two low-ceilinged bedrooms replaced by a living area along with the kitchen and a small office behind translucent polycarbonate panels.

The bedrooms have moved to the floor

below. The space is well lit from a large roof-light as well as windows.

Colin is interested in improving energy efficiency. Substantial insulation has been added internally in the walls and roof with

particular attention paid to the creation of an airtight layer through the use of OSB (oriented strand board). This project shows how low-cost materials can combine with efficient energy use to provide a highly

original and attractive restoration of a Victorian house.

If Colin decides to open again next year, I recommend a visit. More info at http://colin-m.com/15b-herne-hill-road/

Laurence Marsh


HAIRHAIR

www.bokishair.com

OPENING HOURSMON-FRI 8AM-9PMSAT 8AM-6.30PMSUN CLOSED

020 8678 6646020 8678 6646

BOOK AN APPOINTMENT

020 8678 6646 61 NORWOOD ROAD HERNE HILL SE24 9AA www.bokishair.com


It’S Herne Hill on the West End StageTheatre producers like to find

forgotten plays. So far as I know, there is no other play where most of the action takes place

in Herne Hill. Can we look forward to a revival of a play that in 1908 ran for 48 performances at Wyndham’s Theatre and 16 in New York?

The play is called Sir Anthony and subtitled A Comedy of the Outskirts. The author was Charles Haddon Chambers (1860–1921), in his time a successful playwright. It cannot be said that Herne Hill emerges with much credit. But any “minor suburb” — a term used by the haughty Times critic — would have suited the author’s purpose.

Herne Hill, to be precise “The Lindens, 26 Alpaca Road, Herne Hill”, is used to represent the aspiring lower-middle class, where the men work as City clerks and families can afford one maid of all work. In the play, one Clarence Chope, on a business errand to America, fleetingly makes the acquaintance of Sir Anthony, a former Cabinet minister and a man of influence.

The conceit of the play is that Sir Anthony remains off-stage throughout. Clarence

The Dulwich Notebook, Mireille Galinou, photography by Torla EvansThis new book is what publishers tend to describe as “lavishly illustrated”, and its 290 colour illustrations are enhanced by the modern design. It is part historical survey, part celebration of Dulwich as it is today.

We are told that the area covered was defined using the boundary of the Dulwich Estate, liberally adding to it “when it was needed”. Indeed also included are East Dulwich, parts of Herne Hill, Crystal Palace, Forest Hill

boasts about the meeting and both he and all those around him (with the exception of his sister) see his “friendship” with the great man as an opportunity to further their own interests. Their schemes all fall apart and the social pretensions of the “minor suburb” are held up for our amusement.

As are those of Balham, being the setting for the second act, the

home of Clarence’s employer, a wealthy man in the bacon

curing business. He employs four indoor and two outdoor servants. The stage direction requires the scene to give the impression of

“vulgar people in affluent circumstances”. (It is true

that by 1908 most of Herne Hill’s grander houses had

disappeared under the streets we see today, unlike Balham)

Critics were generally complimentary. According to the Illustrated London News, “these creatures of Suburbia… are genuinely observed; their habits, their point of view, their style of speech, their inartistic surroundings are all of them happily suggested”. And there is high praise for Weedon Grossmith, playing the role of Clarence — one can imagine, as co-author of Diary of a Nobody, it was a role in which

he felt at home, for the world of this play is very much the world of Mr Pooter.

The Athenaeum thought the play “a comedy of character rather than incident, a satire directed against the foibles, and especially the snobbishness of suburbia, in which the irony, keen as it is, is subordinated to fidelity of portraiture”.

However, the Manchester Courier found little to like: “Whether these curious and uninteresting people represent Herne Hill and Balham correctly or not does not, perhaps, matter very much, though the good taste of so labelling them may be questioned.”

The Daily Mirror commented that the success of the play “will, of course depend upon the view which suburban playgoers, who

constitute the bulk of the London theatre-going public, take of a play which holds every one of them up to ridicule”.

The actress playing Clarence’s sister (picture inset) was favourably reviewed. She was Nina Boucicault who, four years earlier, had starred in the first stage production of J M Barrie’s Peter Pan.

Worth reviving? While it is pleasing to discover a comedy of Herne Hill after a hundred years, it is probably best that we allow this piece to lie forgotten for another hundred. Laurence Marsh

REVIEWand Peckham! There is quite a lot about Herne Hill here, with references to Ruskin, Bessemer, Carnegie Library, the Velodrome, Brockwell Park and its Lido.

You’ll find most of relevance in the chapter labelled ‘West Dulwich’. I never thought of myself as a denizen of West Dulwich, but heigh-ho. The book contains an index and a select bibliography (it would have been nice to find the Herne Hill Heritage Trail in there, he mutters).

It’s an odd sort of book, as the title might suggest. The inclusion of certain artistic and entrepreneurial types lends it an ‘advertorial’ aspect. One obviously wonders why some people feature while others do not. Whatever the thinking behind it, the choice will always seem arbitrary.

While Franklin’s, Moxon’s and William Rose are in the East Dulwich Contemporary Life section, there’s much less about ‘West Dulwich’ – and while the Dulwich Trader is in, Herne Hill institutions with interesting stories, such as Dugard and Daughters,

Mimosa, Pullens or Olley’s, are absent.

There is much to enjoy and admire. It contains a huge amount of information, both historical and contemporary, and is well written. It succeeds in its task of showing us Dulwich in a new way.

Presenting the text in short, well-illustrated snippets is a format for the internet age. Most will dip into it as time and mood allows. The Dulwich Notebook will no doubt sit happily on many a Dulwich coffee table this Christmas.

Colin Wight


from RUSTIC TO MODERNIan McInnes on the little known link between a change in artistic tastes and the birth of the shops in Norwood Road

Most people who drive or walk up Norwood Road probably think that the shops

opposite Brockwell Park have been there since the railway was built but a closer look at an old 1900 postcard suggests a very different scenario.

In fact the shops were not built till the mid-1920s; before then the site was occupied by the ‘Herne Hill Rustic Works’, who moved there in 1894 from 81 Dulwich Road. An advertisement in the ‘Norwood, Forest Hill, Dulwich and District – Illustrated’ from 1893 gives a detailed account of the business:

Mr G W Riley, Herne Hill Rustic Works, 81 Dulwich Road, Herne Hill

There has been a great revival of artistic taste during the last few years, and in no respect is it more visible than in the ornamentation of public parks, private grounds, and place of resort in general, with quaint old time bridges, rustic summer-houses, garden seats, and other similar objects.

It is gratifying to know that London suburbs are not behind the provinces in this respect, one of the very foremost houses in the trade being that to which this notice refers.

In fact, as an horticultural builder, Mr Riley has few rivals, and the Herne Hill Rustic Works are well known by all interested in the sale or production of these graceful and useful ornaments.

The business has been established

since 1885, and has risen gradually to its present representative position. It is of a comprehensive character, and includes the construction of all kinds of horticultural buildings, rustic summer-houses (ranging in prices from £3 to £100), garden seats, vases and window boxes, poultry and pigeon houses, dog kennels, ladders, garden and stable barrows, all of which are kept in stock, together with the hundred-and-one other articles incidental to such a business.

The show-yard is in the immediate neighbourhood of Herne Hill Station, where the proprietor will generally be found anxious to show intending patrons over his vast treasures of rustic architecture. Any particular article not in stock can be made to order at a few days’ notice. Repairs of all kinds are substantially and promptly executed at a minimum of cost.

Mr Riley is reputed to be the largest builder of this special class of work in

England, and as such, expects shortly to receive an award for his exhibits at the recent horticultural show.

Patrons calling on the principal will find him not only a practical craftsman, but a genial and kindly man, whose friends in and around Herne Hill are best described in the word legion.

At this time Norwood Road was much narrower, and the land between it and the railway embankment much wider. A strip on the road side still belonged to the Blackburn Estate, the original owners of Brockwell Hall, while the other strip, bordering the railway land, belonged to Alleyn’s College of God’s Gift (the Dulwich Estate).

Mr Riley’s business must have thrived in the Edwardian period, but by 1910 things were not so good and the Dulwich Estate agreed to allow him to sublet part of the land, first in 1911 to Messes Snowden and Co

for their business of ‘flame proofing’ and in 1912 to Naylor Graphic Ltd, electrical engineers and electrical sign-makers.

Unfortunately Mr Riley died in 1915 leaving three young daughters. His wife was allowed to let the rest of the site to a cardboard manufacturer and board cutter, but the following year the lease was acquired by William Cooper, a wealthy local builder who lived at St Austins, Dulwich Village (now JAGS pre-prep school). He proposed to let the site as a factory for making temporary iron and timber buildings for the war effort.

In 1919 he requested a 10-year extension to his lease from the Estate while, at the same time, purchasing the freehold of the Blackburne Estate land for £900. After some discussion he sold the land he had bought to the Estate for the price he paid and agreed to lease the whole site for 99


from RUSTIC TO MODERN

for their business of ‘flame proofing’ and in 1912 to Naylor Graphic Ltd, electrical engineers and electrical sign-makers.

Unfortunately Mr Riley died in 1915 leaving three young daughters. His wife was allowed to let the rest of the site to a cardboard manufacturer and board cutter, but the following year the lease was acquired by William Cooper, a wealthy local builder who lived at St Austins, Dulwich Village (now JAGS pre-prep school). He proposed to let the site as a factory for making temporary iron and timber buildings for the war effort.

In 1919 he requested a 10-year extension to his lease from the Estate while, at the same time, purchasing the freehold of the Blackburne Estate land for £900. After some discussion he sold the land he had bought to the Estate for the price he paid and agreed to lease the whole site for 99

years to build shops, flats, dwelling houses, or public halls, costing not less than £15,000.

At this point the LCC stepped in and said they wanted Norwood Road to be widened by 17ft 8in, which would mean the loss of most of the Blackburn Estate land. The Estate suggested that the LCC adjust the boundary of the Park instead but, in reality, it had little choice but to agree even though it would leave a building depth as little as 25 feet in some places. Presumably the LCC paid compensation and in November 1923 the new lease was signed.

Mr Cooper took a 620-foot frontage and agreed an annual rent of £100 for the first year, £150 for the second, £200 for the third and £250 thereafter.

Given the limited depth of the site the only development option was shops and in November Mr Cooper put forward a scheme for 30 units

each one to have “an upper storey, approached by its own stair, and a lavatory”.

He aimed to start at Half Moon Lane and build around 10 to 12 units initially to gauge the level of interest. C.E. Barry, the Estate Architect, noted that it was almost impossible to make the external appearance of a long range of shops built on a curved frontage very attractive, saying that Mr Cooper had “relied on the effect of a simple treatment with long horizontal lines”. However, he didn’t like the end detail and suggested a rounded end with an angled tower. The plans were sent back for improvement.

In February 1924 a set of revised drawings no longer showed the upper floors. When asked why, Mr Cooper responded that there was very little demand for shops of two storeys; he said that in many cases in Herne Hill (as today) the upper floors were used as storage only, and none of the potential occupiers had asked for it. He concluded “it is an asset to the shop which is negligible” and pointed out that a lot of similar single-storey shops were being built at Streatham. On the plus side he said that the walls were 14in thick and therefore capable of carrying an upper story if it was ever required. The first shops were complete in January 1925.

LOOKING BACK: The Herne Hill Rustic Works can be seen behind the horse-drawn tram. Above are some rustic benches in Brockwell Park, circa 1900

Visit Lambeth Palace Garden

Brian Bloice remembered

Have you ever been to Lambeth Palace Garden? I have visited several times, under the Open Gardens Scheme and recently for an Age UK fundraising event. This is a beautiful and surprising place, a real oasis despite the traffic on Lambeth Palace Road and Big Ben in the background.

It is the oldest continuously cultivated garden in London and comprises 11 acres of trees, grass and beautiful shrubs and flowers. It is now closed for 2015 but will be open again in March 2016 on the first Friday of each month from 12pm to 3pm, admission £4. Teas available.

Sheila Northover

It is with great sadness that we record the death on 29 October, after a short illness, of Brian Bloice. Brian was a long-term colleague and friend of the Society. By profession he was an analytical chemist working for Southwark’s Public Health Service. But he also devoted much of his time and energy to local history and other local issues. Brian was perhaps best known as, for many years, Chair of the Streatham Society, Chair and co-founder of the Southwark and Lambeth Archaeological Society (SLAS), and Chair of the Lambeth Local History Forum.

Brian’s work for the community received public recognition when, in April 2009, he received a Lambeth Civic Award on his retirement as “one of South London’s longest-serving and best-known local history lecturers”. The citation also recognised Brian’s contribution to the study of Lambeth’s local history and the regard in which he was held by the many students who attended his classes over more than 30 years at various locations in Lambeth.

Brian will be sorely missed. We send our condolences to Judy Harris, Brian’s partner of many years, and to Brian’s family, friends and colleagues.


DOUBLE TEAM: Andras Lovaszi (left) and Laurence Dixon in their workshop in Dulwich Road

Herne Hill continues to attract new small business enterprises. But one of the latest is not

a coffee shop, craft brewery, cocktail bar or restaurant – it is, wait for it ... a business crafting classic double-basses using traditional skills and materials.

Welcome, Laurence Dixon Bass Place, just installed in their new home on Dulwich Road.

What were derelict shop premises, for several years a dismal blot on our streetscape, have been transformed into a spacious, airy workshop with a welcoming perfume of freshly planed wood and varnish. Instruments in various stages of completion stand against the walls. Laurence’s colleague Andras Lovaszi from Hungary also works here, sawing, planing and glueing with ebony, spruce and maple.

And in the front part of the shop, new and pre-loved instruments can be seen from the street. Here Laurence proposes to stage small masterclasses for his customers and visiting bass maestros.

Did you know, dear reader, that London has a long and distinguished tradition of making stringed instruments and in particular double-basses, going back to John Frederick Lott I, a violin-maker born in London in 1776?

In those days the double-bass provided the vital harmonic underpinning of most of what we now call “classical” music

but which was at the time, of course, contemporary and progressive music. Now every classical orchestra has its quota of double-basses. Laurence studied the craft of instrument making for five years and has run his own small business now for 15 years, true to this classical tradition.

But this versatile instrument acquired a new and less ‘classical’ vocation in the early 20th century (generally plucked rather than bowed) in the rhythm section of jazz ensembles from which it emerged as a voice in its own right, featuring in swing, bebop, free jazz and jazz-

rock fusion groups. One of the most famous Jazz bassists was Charlie Mingus; but Ray Brown (died 2002), before forming his own Ray Brown Trio, was another highly influential American jazz double-bassist, known for extensive work with the Modern Jazz Quartet (in its early years), Oscar Peterson and Ella Fitzgerald, among many others.

And here’s a key link with our new neighbours: in early 2012, London’s world-famous Ronnie Scott’s Club commissioned Laurence to make a “house” bass for them, having heard that he had detailed plans of the double-bass, from the celebrated Cremona workshop of Amati, which

had been owned by that same Ray Brown for many years. The original was bought in England by Ella Fitzgerald (then his wife) as a gift when they were both performing here in London. This history, and the instrument’s natural curves and elegance, made it the ideal choice for a house bass. Being played every night by some of the biggest names worldwide, every night, double shifts at weekends and Sunday lunch, it may well be the hardest working bass in London!

The versatile nature of this particular instrument therefore made it an ideal choice for both the jazz player and the orchestra — the original Amati is

Craft bASS... but not beer


WORKING ROOM: Laurence Dixon (below left) and his colleague Andras Lovaszi use ebony, spruce and maple to build their variety of bases

presently very happily serving in the Toronto Philharmonic.

So nowadays Laurence’s instruments are sought after not only by players in classical orchestras and ensembles large and small, famous and (for the moment) obscure, but also jazz and other contemporary and progressive music instrumentalists. London is a major music performance centre, but Laurence’s customers come from all over Europe: he has even supplied his airline-proof “travel basses” to the Soweto Youth Orchestra.

Laurence explains that he wanted to be in Herne Hill because the premises he has secured are close to the station (ever tried carrying a 7-foot double-

bass on the bus or in a taxi?). Not only that, when he first came to London, some decades ago, he lived in Turney Road and acquired the habit, which he still has, of mentally navigating his way through London always starting from Herne Hill. His business moved here from Clapham Old Town where extensive redevelopment is providing a less favourable environment for small businesses.

So if you happen to walk past number 123 Dulwich Road, pause to look in the window and admire these handsome instruments now being crafted, true to ancient traditions, in SE24!

Pat Roberts

A rare sighting of the ring ouzelI am a bit of a birdwatcher, mainly in my back garden here in Herne Hill but also further afield when I can. One of my favourite London sites is the Wildfowl and Wetland Centre at Barnes, while the Dulwich U3A group I belong to goes to all the local parks and woodlands.

Recently we have been to Sydenham Hill Wood, Streatham Common and Nunhead Cemetery. Mostly, we have seen common birds, but were pleased to spot kestrels on the church near Cox’s Walk, and a party of long-tailed tits and a noisy greater spotted woodpecker at Nunhead. This week we watched the behaviour of parakeets mobbing a crow. There is always lots to see!

At the bottom of my own back garden is a row of horse chestnuts, which form a wildlife corridor and are often a stopping off place for birds. Large flocks of goldfinches are a common sight up

there and recently the annual influx of migrant blackbirds could be seen chasing each other through the treetops. Later on down in the garden they were enjoying the berries on my rowan tree.

Among the blackbirds I spotted an interesting and very distinct visitor, which I thought must be a ring ouzel. It looked like a blackbird, but had a distinct crescent-shaped mark on its breast and lighter coloured wings than its blackbird cousins.

The bird book told me they spend the summer in upland areas of west and central Europe, including the north of Britain, and the winter in southern Spain and northwest Africa, mainly in the Atlas Mountains. They are not common in Britain but may be seen on migration in September/October. I contacted three birders I know among us, and the Dulwich Society recorders, and the response has been good. This is indeed an unusual sighting. I shall keep watching.

Sheila Northover


The closure to motorised traffic of Loughborough Road has caused controversy

Thameslink railway servicesThe Govia Thameslink performance has reverted to dire, after climbing towards its target in the spring. The original Public Performance Measure (PPM) target was 89.1 per cent of trains to arrive within five minutes of the timetable; even after a ‘slackening’ of the timetable this deteriorated to 72 per cent during the worst period of last winter, when London Bridge closures were being managed.

It recovered to 86 per cent in May, but deteriorated to 80 per cent in early October, with autumn leaves still ahead. While long planned construction work at London Bridge is being blamed for ‘unexpected difficulties’, the excuse ‘shortage of drivers’ has also been heard on the platforms –and Govia has now recruited 33 new drivers for the Thameslink trains (no statistics were offered, however, for resignations and retirements).

Govia has recently reported on its consultation on off-peak service provision, but this was mainly concerned with services other than the Wimbledon Loop serving Herne Hill. Changes are being introduced to work towards providing services between Brighton and Cambridge from 2018, when the link just north on St Pancras becomes available.

This Christmas and New Year, railway reconstruction work will take place between South Croydon and Redhill, with major delays and disruptions to Brighton and Gatwick services, but (hopefully) little effect on local Herne Hill services.

On New Year’s Eve, Blackfriars Station’s south entrance will close from 11:30pm, and the north entrance will be exit only, to manage the crowds.

Loughborough Road closureDespite strong opposition from local residents, the local councillor and the Herne Hill Society, the ‘experimental’ closure of Loughborough Road just north of Coldharbour Lane was brought in late August, and has been causing congestion, irritation and confusion ever since.

The level of signage has increased, but the route is still open,

with threats of a £130 fine for driving through. Over 400 attended a meeting at the local community centre on 1 October to express continued objections, and call for the scheme’s immediate withdrawal.

It seems that the message got through to Lambeth, who brought forward the review of the scheme. In November they announced that the scheme was being withdrawn and all routes reopened.

Lambeth and Southwark ‘Quietway’ consultationsBoth Lambeth and Southwark have commissioned the SUSTRANS Consultancy to help with the Elephant and Castle to Crystal Palace Cycle Quietway, and engaging with the local communities through which it is planned to be routed. (The major Tf L 2 works to provide segregated cycle ‘superhighways’ are being complemented by local Borough secondary ‘quietways’ feeder routes, involving local traffic calming and public realm improvements.)

These are intended to encourage cycle use. On the Southwark side, consultation has recently been undertaken on the Calton Avenue/Turney Road Quietway, and the consultants’ (and councillors’) conclusions are awaited. On the Lambeth side, consultations have been undertaken on the Rosendale Road part of the route.

North Dulwich and Denmark Hill CPZ approved by the Dulwich Community CouncilThe consultation on the proposed Controlled Parking Zone for Elfindale, Frankfurt, Danecroft, Elmwood, Wyneham, Beckwith and Ardbeg Roads was reported at the September DCC, and the proposals for a 12:00 – 2:00pm CPZ were endorsed.

A majority of responding residents in the North Dulwich area were also in favour, while the residents of Sunray Gardens estate were reluctantly in favour, if the NDT and Denmark Hill areas both expressed a wish to have a CPZ, so the new zone will extend north towards Camberwell.

Parking in Village Way near North Dulwich Station is outside the zone. Implementation is likely to be early in the New Year, following formal procedures.

Bil Harrison

TRANSPORT NEWS


For the second year running, we were fortunate to have a perfect late summer

day for our Fun Palace at Brockwell Lido. Then again, I always said it wouldn’t rain.

As part of a national and international coming together of arts, science and much more, our community gathered with passion and commitment. There were many locals and a few who had travelled from further away, giving their time and hard, physical work to make the day possible.

On Sunday 4 October, from 11am to 5pm, over 2,500 people visited, engaged, walked, listened, danced, watched and, we hope, had some fun in the doing and the making. And there was a lot of making.

This year’s new additions were dry-land synchronised swimmers, a scavenger hunt in the park, storytelling, a Garden of Discovery, Seeds of Change quiz, which went down very well with the more serious-minded visitors, and rude health — testing blood pressure before and then after releasing a barrage of expletives or quoting Shakespeare. The latter was blessed by the Stroke Association, as long as we warned people that this activity was purely for fun, with no medical connotations whatsoever.

Ebony Horse Club rode from their stables in Loughborough Junction, with Pedro the pony and his Pedroscope warming the crowds. Ebony also made new friends, many of who had never heard about the club, and several new volunteers have been signed up to help.

This is partly what the Fun Palace is all about, having the opportunity to try something different, engaging and perhaps emerging with a new skill or interest — or simply sitting in a beach tent all day and watching the events unfold.

I found the process this year less stressful, possibly because I knew those involved would come up with the goods, but also because we all knew, if the weather was favourable, we could expect the whole process to go as well as it did last year.

From our first meeting in the Lido Café in March/April where anyone (and I mean anyone) who had ideas or

wanted to offer their services was welcomed, right through to the day itself, it was a total inspiration.

The cohesion of the Fun Palace Makers – those who give their time and their energy for free – has become very strong. We meet several times a year, everyone knows one another, everyone has become familiar with the procedure, what we need, when we need it and our system works well. I am very proud of our achievement.

Local companies sponsored us for materials and Fusion were once more, totally supportive of the event. We are, as far as I am aware, the only Fun Palace to incorporate arts, sports AND science. Lambeth parks assisted us the whole way, the Lido Café offered food from the hut at 50 per cent

(138 burgers, 177 portions of chips and more were sold)... we have, so far, had no negative responses. People even offered donations on the way out – they couldn’t believe it was all totally free and someone asked if we do this every Sunday!

At a time when cuts to the arts are widespread, when parks are being forced to make closures, when everyone is having to be creative with little or no money, our Fun Palace showed just what’s possible, with community support, good will and a lot of passion.

Anyone who wants to join up for Brockwell Lido’s Fun Palace on 2 October 2016 can contact us via Twitter @blidofunpalace

We welcome everyone, we need volunteers, we encourage new ideas. We have learned that anything is possible. Next year we want to build on what we have created, we want more science, we want to make more, engage people more, so if you have skills, please let us know.

If you want to make your own Fun Palace, you can. Anyone can, in your garden, front room, with friends and your community. For further info, see funpalaces.co.uk

Shelley Silas, Producer, Brockwell Lido Fun Palace

DAY THE PALACE REIGNED


Wednesday 13 January“The History and Work of the South London Botanical Institute” by Roy Vickery, President of SLBI

Wednesday 10 February“The South London Press: 150 years serving the community” by Hannah Walker, Editor in Chief, SLP

Wednesday 9 MarchAnnual General Meeting - followed by “Lambeth Architecture 1969-99” by Edmund Bird

Membership RenewalsSubscriptions are due on 1 January 2016. Cheques or cash are fine. But you can also now pay online via PayPal. Visit hernehillsociety.org.uk and go to “About the Society” then “How to Join”. Another option would be to set up a Standing Order. Please let us know if you have signed a Gift Aid form, but are no longer a tax-payer. Email to [email protected] or write to our PO Box address. If you do not already receive monthly notification of meetings and other events by email, send a message to [email protected].

DIARY OF EVENTS

FROM OUR DELTIOLOGICAL CORRESPONDENT

Those interested in old postcards will not need to reach for the dictionary – yes, there is a word for their study and collection.

Postcards were produced in vast numbers in the earlier part of the last century. In an age when most people had no telephone they were the usual form of communication, cheap to buy, just a halfpenny (later a penny) for the stamp and several postal collections and deliveries every day.

London topographical scenes, particularly of the suburbs, rather than the well-known sights of the centre, are always popular with today’s collectors,

and of course a source of valuable information for local historians. What may surprise are the sums that are paid for some items. Very recently a postcard with the view shown above (the bottom of Herne Hill, c.1920) appeared on eBay.

Over the last couple of years it seems two collectors have emerged determined to form a collection of the Herne Hill area. One might expect a topographical postcard showing a rarer image as this one to fetch as much as £60. Bidding pushed the price up to £158! Their identities remain a mystery, but should they read this perhaps they would like to tell this Magazine about their passion.

WINTER/SPRING

l Unless otherwise stated, Herne Hill Society meetings will be at Herne Hill United Church Hall, at 7:30 (doors open) for 7:45pm. Please try to arrive before the speaker is introduced.

FOR MORE iNFORMATION, SEE WWW.hernehillsociety.org.uk

Herne Hill Ward LambethMichelle Agdomar (Lab.) [email protected] @MichelleAgdomarJim Dickson (Lab.) [email protected] @JimDicksLambeth 020 3149 6657Jack Holborn (Lab.) [email protected] @jack_holborn

Thurlow Park Ward LambethAnna Birley (Lab.) [email protected] @annamaybFred Cowell (Lab.) [email protected] @fredacowellMax Deckers Dowber (Lab.) [email protected]

Village Ward SouthwarkAnne Kirby (Lab.) [email protected] Jane Lyons (Con.) [email protected] Mitchell (Con.) [email protected] 07535 932 326

Your MPHelen Hayes MP (Lab.) [email protected] House of Commons, London SW1A 0AA.

Your GLA MemberValerie Shawcross AM (Lab.) [email protected] GLA, City Hall, Queen’s Walk, London SE1 2AA 020 7983 4407

Environmental ContactsLambeth Streetscene:Cleansing, rubbish removal, pot holes, abandoned vehicles, graffiti removal etc: 020 7926 9000Southwark Streetscene (as above): 020 7525 2000

AdvertisingAdvertising space is available in this magazine at the following rates for four issues over one year:

Quarter page: £55 Half page: £110 Full page, including back page according to availability: £230

Please supply your own artwork.For further details, email [email protected]

OUR COUNCILLORS


Our new mural by Phlegm

SIMPLY AN Eye-opening and mind-blowing SHOW

The current exhibition at Dulwich Picture Gallery, until 17 January 2016, is “The Amazing World of

M C Escher”. The adjective is by no means hype; this is truly an eye-opening, indeed mind-blowing show.

Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898–1972) is well known as a graphic artist; but with only one print in a UK collection, the British public normally has no opportunity to see his original works. The more than 100 drawings, lithographs, woodcuts, studies, models, mezzotints and watercolours on display in Dulwich are from the Gemeentemuseum in The Hague. They lead us through a career of ever inventive experimentation and imaginative discovery.

We begin with an early self-portrait, a single line for every hair in a neatly combed quiff above his intense-looking face. There is also a straightforward, rather charming white cat. Soon, however, he is trying different techniques and perspectives: a near-Cubist face, an off-centre landscape view, the Tower of Babel seen from above.

The use of woodblock printing led him to tessellation, creating patterns of interlocking identical shapes, repeated in all directions, or morphing into other shapes. It is fascinating to become absorbed in these pictures; and one must look closely to appreciate them fully.

There are often subtle changes and intricate details it would be easy to miss at a casual viewing. “Day and Night” depicts white birds flying east; but look at their shadows and see black birds flying west, while below their shapes transform into patchwork fields.

Escher often made photographs of scenes he was drawing, later working them up in his studio; one can compare the various versions for detail, and also the surprising reversed image woodcut. The

many Corsican and Italian landscapes are particularly appealing.

Some of Escher’s work is reminiscent of Surrealism, though it was developed independently. Here a still life features a mirror with an impossible reflection; there a shelf or window ledge extends to become the street outside. Hands emerge from a paper drawing each other, reptiles leap from the page, appearing to become three-dimensional, insects metamorphose into other flying creatures. Houses bulge outwards, while ladders lead nowhere. We stare at a structure like “Belvedere” and wonder how it can work and how the figures relate – and did you notice the ‘cube’ one is holding? Look again.

With such weird images, oddly reflecting spheres, Mobius-strip faces and the like, it is not surprising Escher appealed to hippies and others in the psychedelic 1960s. Oblivious, he turned down commissions from Stanley Kubrick and Mick Jagger. Critics may have dismissed him, as he was not part of a movement, so not easy to categorise; but the public have always loved him. See for yourself and be amazed.

Open Tuesday–Friday 10am–5pm; weekends and Bank Holiday Mondays 11am–5pm. Entry: £14 (including voluntary Gift Aid donation); seniors £13; students, unemployed, disabled £9; children and Friends free.

Jeffrey Doorn

As part of the Dulwich Outdoor Gallery programme and to link in with the MC Escher show at Dulwich Picture Gallery, the urban street artist known as Phlegm painted a building wall in Herne Hill in October with a strip-face inspired by Escher’s “Bond of Union”.

The original double portrait surrounded with spheres has also inspired a science fiction book cover. Like other street artists, such as Banksy, the identity of Phlegm is

something of a mystery. He is said to be Sheffield-based. His work can also be seen in other European cities, North America and Australia.

Dulwich has acquired several murals under the Outdoor Gallery programme, but this is a first for Herne Hill.

And a stone’s throw from the black and white of Phlegm’s work are two colourful murals under the railway bridge. These use the green adopted as its livery colour by

the Southern Railways division of British Rail following nationalisation of the railways in 1948.

The name Herne Hill is displayed as a “totem” (sometimes also referred to as a “double sausage”) sign, a universal design of the British Rail era with its characteristic Gill Sans font.

Could this evocation of that era carry a subtle reference to contemporary arguments about the virtues of rail nationalisation?


MSC “Olley’s Fish Experience in Herne Hill has become the first in the UK to add a total of eight MSC certified species of fish

to their menu. The fish and chip shop now offers its customers the widest choice of MSC certified fish in the country.”

Norw

ood Road Croxted Road

Half Moon Lane

Railton Road

Milkw

ood Road Hern

e Hill

Brockwell

Park

Dulwich Road

Herne

Hill

Why not have fish & chips at your next event weddings, birthdays & anniversaries

We can cater at your event “Mobile Fish & Chips”

www.olleys.info [email protected] Olleys Fish Experience olleysfishexp

65 - 69 Norwood Road, Herne Hill, London, SE24 9AA 0208 671 8259 (Takeaway) 0208 671 5665 (Restaurant)


Lambeth Architecture 1965–99

This is the final volume in the series of four books about architecture in

Lambeth in the 20th century. Edmund Bird and Fiona Price deserve the highest praise for this outstanding contribution to London’s architectural history.

As a record of 20th-century architecture in a London borough it is unique — no other borough can match it. Their work is again beautifully complemented by the contemporary photographs of John East.

There are no fewer than 260 buildings covered here, twice the number for the post-war period up to 1965 and more than four times as many as in the first volume covering the

Edwardian period, something which goes to explain the strong impact these buildings have on Lambeth today, both on how it looks and how we use this architecture.

This book follows the pattern of its companion volumes by grouping buildings under their function rather than their location. This helps to underline an important fact that architectural histories can sometimes lose sight of. Architecture is profoundly

social; buildings need to be well designed not only in their physical appearance but also in how they meet our many different needs as social beings. These needs change over time.

In the introduction, which is exemplary in its concise and clear exposition of a complex subject, the changing political and social background in London since 1965 is outlined.

This provides the context for the extraordinarily diverse architecture that is then described. One will not find the strongly idiosyncratic judgements that some architectural critics like to employ.

Edmund Bird is admirably even-handed in his judgements, though there are also sharper comments, for example on the relationship of Sainsbury’s in Clapham High Street with its neighbours, or on the good

fortune enjoyed by central Brixton in being spared wholescale redevelopment (including an overhead urban motorway) in a notorious scheme from 1967.

It contains a huge amount of information, but the deceptively straightforward style in the presentation of text and images (including many interesting photos of how places looked before the current building appeared) makes it a delight to read.

The scholarship is lightly borne. I just hope the authors will forgive me for pointing out that the National Theatre (page 35) was built with a porte-cochère, not a porte-corchére.l Copies of Lambeth Architecture 1965-99 can be purchased from the Herne Hill Society, price £10.

Laurence Marsh

REVIEW


We provide an individual focus when it comes to fi nding or selling properties in Herne Hill, where we have fi fteen years of specialised experience. We pride ourselves on a forward thinking, and progressive approach to the property market.

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herne hill #133 (winter 2015)

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