HairstylingHairstyling

Chapter 15Chapter 15

HairstylingHairstyling The art of hairstyling or dressing the The art of hairstyling or dressing the

hair has always had a direct relation hair has always had a direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the to the fashion, art, and life of the timestimes

A person’s hairstyle often reflects the A person’s hairstyle often reflects the period in which they liveperiod in which they live

Historical and technical knowledge of Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling will prepare you for the hairstyling will prepare you for the constant cyclical changes of fashionconstant cyclical changes of fashion

By learning basic styling techniques, By learning basic styling techniques, you will be able and ready to create you will be able and ready to create endless styles to keep clients happyendless styles to keep clients happy

Wet Hairstyling Tools:Wet Hairstyling Tools:

Combs – Combs – BrushesBrushes RollersRollers Clips – duckbill, sectioning, Clips – duckbill, sectioning,

double prongdouble prong Pins – bobby or hairPins – bobby or hair Clamps – butterfly clipsClamps – butterfly clips

Finger wavingFinger waving

Is the process of shaping and Is the process of shaping and directing hair into an “S” pattern directing hair into an “S” pattern through the use of the fingers, through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotioncombs, and waving lotion

Was the rage in the 1920’sWas the rage in the 1920’s

Waving lotionWaving lotion Is a type of hair gel that makes Is a type of hair gel that makes

the hair pliable enough to keep it the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving in place during the finger waving processprocess

Traditionally made from karaya Traditionally made from karaya gum an ingredient found in trees gum an ingredient found in trees in India and Africain India and Africa

A good waving lotion is harmless A good waving lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake to the hair and does not flake when drywhen dry

If you use too much the hair will If you use too much the hair will be too wet and drippingbe too wet and dripping

Finding the natural partFinding the natural part

Comb wet hair straight back Comb wet hair straight back from the hairlinefrom the hairline

Push the hair gently forward Push the hair gently forward with the palm of the handwith the palm of the hand

Use your comb and other hand to Use your comb and other hand to separate the hair where it partsseparate the hair where it parts

Horizontal finger wavingHorizontal finger waving Part hairPart hair Apply waving lotionApply waving lotion Shape the hair into a S or C shapingShape the hair into a S or C shaping Place index finger of your left hand directly above the Place index finger of your left hand directly above the

position for the first ridge, with the teeth of the comb position for the first ridge, with the teeth of the comb pointing slightly upward insert the comb directly pointing slightly upward insert the comb directly under the index finger, draw the comb forward about under the index finger, draw the comb forward about 1 inch1 inch

Flatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in Flatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in placeplace

Remove your left hand and place your middle finger Remove your left hand and place your middle finger above the ridge with your index finger on the teeth of above the ridge with your index finger on the teeth of the combthe comb

Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure – do not push or over directapplying pressure – do not push or over direct

Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a semicircular direction opposite the slidesemicircular direction opposite the slide

Continue this procedure until all sections are Continue this procedure until all sections are completecomplete

Pin CurlsPin Curls

Pin curls serve as the basis for Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, line waves, curls, and patterns, line waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstylesrange of hairstyles

Can be used on all types of hairCan be used on all types of hair Work best when the hair is Work best when the hair is

layered and smoothly woundlayered and smoothly wound Have three basic parts: base, Have three basic parts: base,

stem, and circlestem, and circle

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3 Basic Parts of a Pin Curl

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BaseBase• stationary (non-stationary (non-moving) foundation of moving) foundation of the curl which is the the curl which is the area closest to the area closest to the scalpscalp

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StemStem• section of the curl section of the curl between the base and between the base and first arc (turn) of the first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the circle that gives the curl its direction and curl its direction and movementmovement

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CircleCircle• part of the curl that part of the curl that forms a complete forms a complete circle, size of circle circle, size of circle determines the width determines the width of the wave and its of the wave and its strength strength

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Mobility of a curlMobility of a curl

The stem is what determines the The stem is what determines the mobility or movement of the curlmobility or movement of the curl

There are 3 classifications of curl There are 3 classifications of curl mobility: mobility:

no-stem curlno-stem curl half-stem curl half-stem curl full-stem curlfull-stem curl

No StemNo Stem

placed directly on the placed directly on the base of the curlbase of the curl

produces a tight, produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curlfirm, long-lasting curl

allows minimum allows minimum mobilitymobility

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Half StemHalf Stem

• medium movement medium movement • circle is placed half circle is placed half off the base off the base

• gives good control to gives good control to the hairthe hair

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Full StemFull Stem• greatest mobility greatest mobility • curl is placed completely off curl is placed completely off

the basethe base• base may be square, base may be square,

triangular, half-moon, or triangular, half-moon, or rectangular rectangular

• Gives as much freedom as the Gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit, length of the stem will permit, if it is exaggerated the hair if it is exaggerated the hair near the scalp will be flat near the scalp will be flat

• this curl is used to give hair a this curl is used to give hair a strong definite directionstrong definite direction

ShapingShaping

A section of hair that is molded A section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of preparation for the formation of curlscurls

Are either open ended or closed Are either open ended or closed endedended

Always begin a pin curl at the Always begin a pin curl at the open end or convex side of a open end or convex side of a shapingshaping

Open / Closed Center Open / Closed Center CurlsCurls

Open center curls produce Open center curls produce even smooth waves and even smooth waves and uniform curlsuniform curls

Closed center curls produce Closed center curls produce waves that get smaller in waves that get smaller in size toward the end. They size toward the end. They are good for fine hair, if a are good for fine hair, if a fluffy curl is desiredfluffy curl is desired

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Open Center / Closed Open Center / Closed CenterCenter

Stem and DirectionStem and Direction

Curls may be turned toward the Curls may be turned toward the face, away from the face, face, away from the face, upward, downward, or diagonallyupward, downward, or diagonally

Terms clockwise and Terms clockwise and counterclockwise are used to counterclockwise are used to describe the direction of a pin describe the direction of a pin curlcurl

Bases / FoundationsBases / Foundations

Most common is half-moon or C Most common is half-moon or C shapingshaping

To avoid splits in the finished To avoid splits in the finished hairstyle you must use care hairstyle you must use care when selecting and forming the when selecting and forming the curl basecurl base

Each curl must lie flat and Each curl must lie flat and smooth on its basesmooth on its base

The shape of the base does not The shape of the base does not affect the finished curlaffect the finished curl

Rectangular BaseRectangular Base usually recommended at the side usually recommended at the side

front hairlinefront hairline for a smooth effect and to avoid splits for a smooth effect and to avoid splits

in the comb-out the pin curls must in the comb-out the pin curls must overlapoverlap

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Triangular BaseTriangular Base

• recommended along the recommended along the front or facial hairline to front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits prevent breaks or splits

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Arc Base / C shape / Half MoonArc Base / C shape / Half Moon

• are carved out of a shapingare carved out of a shaping• give good direction and may give good direction and may

be used at the hairline or in be used at the hairline or in the napethe nape

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Square BasesSquare Bases

• suitable for curly hairstyles suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or liftwithout much volume or lift

• can be used on any part of can be used on any part of the headthe head

• to avoid splits stagger the to avoid splits stagger the sectionssections

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Pin curl techniquesPin curl techniques Ribboning:Ribboning: involves forcing involves forcing

the hair between the thumb the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to and the back of the comb to create tensioncreate tension

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Carved CurlsCarved Curls

• those curls that are sliced those curls that are sliced from a shaping and formed from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from without lifting the hair from the headthe head

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WaveWave• To create a wave effect use To create a wave effect use

two rows of pin curls set one two rows of pin curls set one row clockwise and one row clockwise and one counter clockwisecounter clockwise

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Ridge CurlsRidge Curls

• Are pin curls placed Are pin curls placed immediately behind or below immediately behind or below a ridge to form a finger wavea ridge to form a finger wave

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Skip WavesSkip Waves

• Are two rows of ridge curls Are two rows of ridge curls usually on the side of the usually on the side of the headhead

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Pin curl procedurePin curl procedure

Form C shapingForm C shaping Slice a strand to create the first Slice a strand to create the first

curlcurl Point your left index finger down Point your left index finger down

and hold the strand in placeand hold the strand in place Ribbon the strandRibbon the strand Wind the curl forward keeping Wind the curl forward keeping

the ends inside the center of the the ends inside the center of the curlcurl

Hold the curl in the shaping and Hold the curl in the shaping and anchor it with a clipanchor it with a clip

Pin Curl ProcedurePin Curl Procedure

Anchoring pinsAnchoring pins

To anchor pin curls start at the To anchor pin curls start at the open end of the curl – this is the open end of the curl – this is the side opposite the stemside opposite the stem

The clip should enter the circle The clip should enter the circle parallel to the stemparallel to the stem

To avoid a dent in the curl avoid To avoid a dent in the curl avoid pinning across the circlepinning across the circle

If clips touch the skin place If clips touch the skin place cotton under them before cotton under them before placing client under the dryerplacing client under the dryer

Stand up CurlsStand up Curls used to create heightused to create height they are fastened to the head in a they are fastened to the head in a

standing position to allow hair to flow standing position to allow hair to flow upward and then downward upward and then downward

size of the curl determines the size of the curl determines the amount of height in the comb-outamount of height in the comb-out

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Barrel CurlsBarrel Curls

• have a large center opening and are have a large center opening and are fastened to the head in a standing fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base position on a rectangular base

• is similar to a roller but does not have is similar to a roller but does not have the same tension as a roller when it is the same tension as a roller when it is setset

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Roller Curls AdvantagesRoller Curls Advantages

Use to create many of the same Use to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curlseffects as stand-up pin curls

Roller holds the equivalent of Roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand-up curlstwo to four stand-up curls

Faster way to set hairFaster way to set hair Hair is wrapped around the roller Hair is wrapped around the roller

with tension which gives a with tension which gives a longer-lasting effectlonger-lasting effect

Come in variety of shapes and Come in variety of shapes and sizes, which broadens the sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for stylescreative possibilities for styles

ROLLERSROLLERS

Parts of a Roller CurlParts of a Roller Curl Base:Base: panel of hair on which panel of hair on which

the roller is placed. Base the roller is placed. Base should be same length and should be same length and width as the roller. The type width as the roller. The type of base does effect the volumeof base does effect the volume

Stem:Stem: hair between the scalp hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller, and the first turn of the roller, stem gives hair direction and stem gives hair direction and mobilitymobility

Curl:Curl: or circle, the hair that is or circle, the hair that is wrapped around the roller, wrapped around the roller, determines the size of the determines the size of the wave or curlwave or curl

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3 Parts of a roller curl3 Parts of a roller curl

Choosing your roller sizeChoosing your roller size

Relationship between Relationship between the length of the hair the length of the hair and the size of the and the size of the roller will determine roller will determine the resultsthe results

C shape, Wave, or C shape, Wave, or CurlCurl

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C ShapeC Shape

One complete turn around the One complete turn around the roller roller

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WaveWave

One and a half turns One and a half turns

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CurlCurl

Two and a half turns Two and a half turns

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Roller PlacementRoller Placement

The size of the roller and how it The size of the roller and how it sits on its base will determine sits on its base will determine the volume achievedthe volume achieved

General rule – larger the roller General rule – larger the roller the greater the volumethe greater the volume

There are three basic roller There are three basic roller placements or bases: On Base, placements or bases: On Base, Half Base, Off BaseHalf Base, Off Base

Special roller placement is Special roller placement is indentationindentation

On BaseOn Base For full volume the roller is placed For full volume the roller is placed

directly on its base directly on its base Over direct (higher than 90 degrees) Over direct (higher than 90 degrees)

the strand slightly in front of the base the strand slightly in front of the base and then roll the hair down to the and then roll the hair down to the basebase

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Half BaseHalf Base

• For medium volumeFor medium volume• The roller sits halfway on its base, The roller sits halfway on its base,

and halfway behind its base. and halfway behind its base. • Hold the strand straight up from the Hold the strand straight up from the

head (90 degrees) and roll the hair head (90 degrees) and roll the hair down down

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OFF BASEOFF BASE

• Least volume Least volume • The roller sits completely off the baseThe roller sits completely off the base• Hold the strand 45% down from the Hold the strand 45% down from the

base and roll the hair downbase and roll the hair down

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IndentationIndentation

Placement of rollers on the head usually Placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of the finished stylefollows the movement of the finished style

is the point where curls of is the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming opposite directions meet forming a recessed area, this is often a recessed area, this is often found in a flip stylefound in a flip style

Hot RollersHot Rollers

To be used only on dry hairTo be used only on dry hair They are heated either electrically or They are heated either electrically or

by steamby steam Allow the rollers to set in the hair for Allow the rollers to set in the hair for

approximately 10 minutesapproximately 10 minutes A thermal protector should be A thermal protector should be

sprayed on the hair prior to settingsprayed on the hair prior to setting The result curl is less strong than a The result curl is less strong than a

wet set curl but longer lasting than a wet set curl but longer lasting than a curling iron curlcurling iron curl

Velcro RollersVelcro Rollers Are not allowed by some state boards Are not allowed by some state boards

because of the difficulty of sanitizing because of the difficulty of sanitizing them properlythem properly

Used only on dry hair, using them on Used only on dry hair, using them on wet hair will snag and tear the hairwet hair will snag and tear the hair

Often used after a blow-out to Often used after a blow-out to reinforce a curl of wavereinforce a curl of wave

No clipping is necessary the Velcro No clipping is necessary the Velcro fabric grips the hair and holds itself fabric grips the hair and holds itself in placein place

Mist entire head with hairspray, dry Mist entire head with hairspray, dry under a hood dryer for 5 – 10 minutesunder a hood dryer for 5 – 10 minutes

Comb-Out TechniquesComb-Out Techniques Back combing – also called back brushing, Back combing – also called back brushing,

teasing, ratting, matting,ruffing or french teasing, ratting, matting,ruffing or french lacinglacing

Best way to increase volume and remove Best way to increase volume and remove indentations caused by roller settingindentations caused by roller setting

Involves combing small sections of hair Involves combing small sections of hair from the ends towards the scalp, causing from the ends towards the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or basea cushion or base

During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing would allow a client to wear their hair in would allow a client to wear their hair in their style for an entire weektheir style for an entire week

Teasing hair is a necessity for a good Teasing hair is a necessity for a good updoupdo

Back combing procedureBack combing procedure Section hair, pick up a section no more Section hair, pick up a section no more

than 1 inch thick and 2 to 3 inches than 1 inch thick and 2 to 3 inches widewide

Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth of about 1 ½ inches from the scalpof about 1 ½ inches from the scalp

Press the comb down gently to the Press the comb down gently to the scalp repeat this process until desired scalp repeat this process until desired volume is achievedvolume is achieved

Create a cushion by firmly pushing the Create a cushion by firmly pushing the hair down to the scalphair down to the scalp

Smooth the hair so as not to see the Smooth the hair so as not to see the packing or cushioning at the scalp packing or cushioning at the scalp

BackcombingBackcombing

Hair WrappingHair Wrapping Useful to keep curly hair smooth and Useful to keep curly hair smooth and

straight while retaining a beautiful shapestraight while retaining a beautiful shape Wrap hair around the head using the head Wrap hair around the head using the head

to contour the hairto contour the hair Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hairWrapping can be done on wet or dry hair On overly curly hair press it first and then On overly curly hair press it first and then

do a dry hair wrappingdo a dry hair wrapping Apply a silicone shine product before Apply a silicone shine product before

wrapping for a glossy comb outwrapping for a glossy comb out For extra protection stretch a neck strip For extra protection stretch a neck strip

around the head so that it overlaps at the around the head so that it overlaps at the endsends

The longer the hair is wrapped the The longer the hair is wrapped the smoother it will besmoother it will be

Hair WrappingHair Wrapping

Blow-dry stylingBlow-dry styling

Technique of drying and styling Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operationdamp hair in one operation

The impression of the client’s The impression of the client’s haircut will be determined by the haircut will be determined by the quality of the blow-dryquality of the blow-dry

Tools for blow-dry stylingTools for blow-dry styling Blow-dryer – and electrical appliance Blow-dryer – and electrical appliance

designed for drying and styling hairdesigned for drying and styling hair Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle,

small fan, heating element, speed and heat small fan, heating element, speed and heat controls, and cool shot buttoncontrols, and cool shot button

Temperature control switch helps to Temperature control switch helps to produce a steady stream of air at the produce a steady stream of air at the desired temperaturedesired temperature

Concentrator is a directional feature that Concentrator is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of aircreates a concentrated stream of air

Diffuser is an attachment that causes the Diffuser is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and help to air to flow more softly and help to accentuate or keep textural (curl) definition accentuate or keep textural (curl) definition

Blow-dryer tipsBlow-dryer tips To keep blow-dryer safe and effective To keep blow-dryer safe and effective

keep it clean and free of dirt, oil, and keep it clean and free of dirt, oil, and hairhair

The air intake at the back of the dryer The air intake at the back of the dryer must also be kept clear at all timesmust also be kept clear at all times

Dropping a blow-dryer can damage the Dropping a blow-dryer can damage the fan or heating elementfan or heating element

Never hold the blow-dryer too long in Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place, keep it in motion at all timesone place, keep it in motion at all times

Always direct the hot air away from the Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp to avoid burnsclient’s scalp to avoid burns

Direct it from the scalp towards the Direct it from the scalp towards the ends to seal the cuticle so the hair is ends to seal the cuticle so the hair is smooth and shinysmooth and shiny

Tools for styling hairTools for styling hair Picks and combs:Picks and combs: designed to designed to

distribute and part the hair, they distribute and part the hair, they come in a wide variety of shapes come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, hard rubber combs should and sizes, hard rubber combs should always be used with thermal toolsalways be used with thermal tools

Brushes:Brushes: choose one based on the choose one based on the length, texture, and styling needs of length, texture, and styling needs of the hair that you are working withthe hair that you are working with

BrushesBrushes

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CombsCombs

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Classic Styling BrushClassic Styling Brush

half round rubber based typically have with half round rubber based typically have with seven or nine rows of round tipped nylon seven or nine rows of round tipped nylon bristles bristles

heat resistant and antistatic heat resistant and antistatic used where little volume is desiredused where little volume is desired

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Paddle BrushPaddle Brush

large, flat base are well large, flat base are well suited for mid to longer suited for mid to longer length hair length hair

usually with ball tipped nylon usually with ball tipped nylon pinspins

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Grooming BrushGrooming Brush

usually oval with a mixture usually oval with a mixture of boar and nylon bristlesof boar and nylon bristles

boar helps to distribute boar helps to distribute scalp oils throughout hair scalp oils throughout hair shaftshaft

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Vent BrushVent Brush

ventilated design, used to ventilated design, used to speed up the blow drying speed up the blow drying processprocess

great for adding volume and great for adding volume and lift at the scalplift at the scalp

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Round BrushRound Brush Come in various diameters Come in various diameters usually natural bristles, smaller brush gives usually natural bristles, smaller brush gives

more curl more curl used to lift hair at scalp and add volume used to lift hair at scalp and add volume metal cylinders bases act as electric roller metal cylinders bases act as electric roller use the cool shot button to “set” the shapeuse the cool shot button to “set” the shape

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Teasing BrushTeasing Brush

thin nylon styling brush that thin nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of along with a narrow row of bristlesbristles

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Tools for styling Tools for styling continued…continued… Styling product: are thought of a “liquid tools” with Styling product: are thought of a “liquid tools” with

so many products on the market a stylist needs to so many products on the market a stylist needs to consider the following:consider the following:

1.How long does the style 1.How long does the style need to hold? need to hold?

2.What are the environmental 2.What are the environmental conditions, humidity, wind, sun?conditions, humidity, wind, sun? 3.Type of hair, straight, curly?3.Type of hair, straight, curly? 4.Amount of support desired, 4.Amount of support desired,

using it on fine or coarse hair?using it on fine or coarse hair?

MousseMousse light airy whipped styling product that light airy whipped styling product that

resembles shaving foam resembles shaving foam It builds moderate body and volume into the It builds moderate body and volume into the

hair hair good for fine hair will not weigh it downgood for fine hair will not weigh it down great for blowouts needing volume & roller great for blowouts needing volume & roller

setssets

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GelGel• thickened styling preparation thickened styling preparation

that comes in a tube or that comes in a tube or bottle bottle

• create the strongest control create the strongest control for slicked or molded styles for slicked or molded styles

• firm hold may overwhelm fine firm hold may overwhelm fine hairhair

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Liquid Gel / TexturizerLiquid Gel / Texturizer

• lighter and usually a more lighter and usually a more liquid in form, add volume liquid in form, add volume and body to the hairand body to the hair

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Straightening Gel / Straightening Gel / SerumSerum• is applied to hair ranging is applied to hair ranging

from wavy to extremely curly from wavy to extremely curly and creates a smooth and creates a smooth straight look that will hold in straight look that will hold in a variety of weather a variety of weather conditions, this is temporary conditions, this is temporary and will only last from and will only last from shampoo to shampooshampoo to shampoo

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VolumizersVolumizers

• add volume to the hair, add volume to the hair, usually have a drying effect usually have a drying effect on the hair and should only on the hair and should only be sprayed on close to the be sprayed on close to the rootsroots

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Pomade / WaxPomade / Wax• add considerable weight to the hair by add considerable weight to the hair by

causing the strands to join togethercausing the strands to join together• showing separation in the hair, makes dry showing separation in the hair, makes dry

hair easy to moldhair easy to mold• should be used sparingly on fine hairshould be used sparingly on fine hair• excellent on short hair excellent on short hair • check ingredients and avoid all products check ingredients and avoid all products

with petroleum and mineral oilwith petroleum and mineral oil

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SiliconeSilicone• adds gloss and sheen to the hair while adds gloss and sheen to the hair while

creating textural definitioncreating textural definition• nonoily silicones are best to add at the end nonoily silicones are best to add at the end

for extra shinefor extra shine• spray formulas are useful for fine hair so spray formulas are useful for fine hair so

they do not add weightthey do not add weight

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Hairspray / Finishing Hairspray / Finishing MistMist

• mist or aerosol formula used mist or aerosol formula used to hold hair in placeto hold hair in place

• available in a variety of available in a variety of holding strengthsholding strengths

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Thermal HairstylingThermal Hairstyling

aka Marcel waving / thermal curlingaka Marcel waving / thermal curling Methods of waving and curling straight or Methods of waving and curling straight or

pressed hair using thermal irons and special pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hairmanipulative techniques on dry hair

Electrical or stove heatedElectrical or stove heated Made of quality steel to provide even heat Made of quality steel to provide even heat

controlled by the stylistcontrolled by the stylist Stove irons are capable of higher heat Stove irons are capable of higher heat

settings preferred w/extremely curly hairsettings preferred w/extremely curly hair

Thermal Iron 4 basic Thermal Iron 4 basic partsparts

Rod handleRod handle Shell handleShell handle Barrel or rod (cylinder)Barrel or rod (cylinder) ShellShell

Flat IronFlat Iron

Have two hot plates ranging in size Have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ inch to 3 inches acrossfrom ½ inch to 3 inches across

Straight edges used to create Straight edges used to create straight stylesstraight styles

Beveled edges can be manipulated Beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or curl the endsto bend or curl the ends

best are made from full ceramic not best are made from full ceramic not coated platescoated plates

titanium, tourmaline ceramic, nano titanium, tourmaline ceramic, nano

Testing Thermal IronsTesting Thermal Irons

Test it on a piece of tissue paper Test it on a piece of tissue paper or a damp towelor a damp towel

Clamp the iron on the material Clamp the iron on the material and hold for 5 secondsand hold for 5 seconds

If it scorches or turns brown the If it scorches or turns brown the iron is too hotiron is too hot

Care of thermal ironsCare of thermal irons To remove dirt, oils and product To remove dirt, oils and product

residue, dampen a towel or rag and residue, dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammoniafew drops of ammonia

Do not immerse the barrel in the Do not immerse the barrel in the solutionssolutions

Do not do this when your iron is onDo not do this when your iron is on Do not do this when your iron is hotDo not do this when your iron is hot Premixed solutionsPremixed solutions

Manipulating thermal Manipulating thermal ironsirons

Grasp the iron in your right hand Grasp the iron in your right hand far enough away from the joint far enough away from the joint to avoid the heatto avoid the heat

Place your three middle fingers Place your three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle, on the back of the lower handle, your little finder in front of the your little finder in front of the lower handle and your thumb in lower handle and your thumb in front of the upper handlefront of the upper handle

Practice rolling a cold iron until Practice rolling a cold iron until you are comfortable you are comfortable

Manipulating thermal Manipulating thermal ironsirons

TemperatureTemperature

There is no single correct There is no single correct temperature used for the irontemperature used for the iron

Depends mainly on the texture Depends mainly on the texture of the hairof the hair

Hair that has been lightened or Hair that has been lightened or tinted as well as white hair tinted as well as white hair should be treated with gentle should be treated with gentle heatheat

Coarse hair can withstand a Coarse hair can withstand a greater temperaturegreater temperature

Types of curlsTypes of curls

Barrel curlBarrel curl – good for short hair (can – good for short hair (can be volume based, full based, half be volume based, full based, half based, or off base)based, or off base)

Figure 6 curlFigure 6 curl – good for medium hair – good for medium hair Figure 8 curlFigure 8 curl – good for long hair – good for long hair Spiral curl Spiral curl – curling hair by winding it – curling hair by winding it

around the rod, inserted at an anglearound the rod, inserted at an angle End curlsEnd curls – finished appearance to – finished appearance to

hair ends, can be turned either under hair ends, can be turned either under or overor over

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End CurlsEnd Curls

Barrel CurlBarrel Curl

Figure 6 CurlFigure 6 Curl

Figure 8 CurlFigure 8 Curl

Curl PlacementCurl Placement

Volume CurlVolume Curl

On BaseOn Base

Slightly Off BaseSlightly Off Base

Off Base Off Base

Safety for thermal ironsSafety for thermal irons Keep cleanKeep clean Do not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold Do not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold

heat uniformlyheat uniformly Test temperatureTest temperature Handle thermal irons carefullyHandle thermal irons carefully Place hot irons in a safe place to coolPlace hot irons in a safe place to cool When heating conventional irons do not place the handles When heating conventional irons do not place the handles

too close to the stovetoo close to the stove Make sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to Make sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to

avoid injuryavoid injury Use only hard rubber combsUse only hard rubber combs Do not use metal combs they can burn the scalpDo not use metal combs they can burn the scalp Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when

curlingcurling The client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good The client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good

resultresult Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will

cause fishhookscause fishhooks When ironing lightened, tinted or relaxed hair always use When ironing lightened, tinted or relaxed hair always use

gentle heat gentle heat

Thermal Hair Straightening Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)(Hair Pressing)

Temporarily straightens extremely Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a curly or unruly hair by means of a heated combheated comb

Generally lasts from shampoo to Generally lasts from shampoo to shampooshampoo

A good hair pressing leaves the hair A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition, in a natural and lustrous condition, and is not harmful to the hairand is not harmful to the hair

There are 3 basic types of pressing: There are 3 basic types of pressing: soft, medium, and hardsoft, medium, and hard

Hair pressingHair pressing Soft Press:Soft Press: removes about 50-60% of the removes about 50-60% of the

curl, apply pressing comb once on each side curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hairof the hair

Medium press:Medium press: removes about 60 -75% of removes about 60 -75% of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair but using more pressureside of the hair but using more pressure

Hard press:Hard press: removes 100% of curl, apply removes 100% of curl, apply thermal pressing comb twice on each side of thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hairthe hair

Hair and Scalp AnalysisHair and Scalp Analysis Under no circumstances should hair Under no circumstances should hair

pressing be given to a client who has pressing be given to a client who has a scalp abrasion or a contagious scalp a scalp abrasion or a contagious scalp condition, or chemically damaged haircondition, or chemically damaged hair

Chemically relaxed hair should not be Chemically relaxed hair should not be pressedpressed

If hair condition is not optimal If hair condition is not optimal suggest a series of reconditioning suggest a series of reconditioning treatments prior to pressingtreatments prior to pressing

A tight scalp can be made more A tight scalp can be made more flexible by scalp massage or brushingflexible by scalp massage or brushing

Pressing CombPressing Comb

2 basic types: regular and electric2 basic types: regular and electric Constructed of good quality stainless steel Constructed of good quality stainless steel

or brassor brass Handle is usually made of wood since wood Handle is usually made of wood since wood

does not readily absorb heatdoes not readily absorb heat A comb with more space between the teeth A comb with more space between the teeth

produces a coarse or open looking press, produces a coarse or open looking press, while a comb with less space produces a while a comb with less space produces a smoother presssmoother press

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TemperingTempering

• Allows the brass to hold heat evenly Allows the brass to hold heat evenly • You must burn off any polish the You must burn off any polish the

manufacturer may have used to coat the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb, if the polish is not burned off the comb, if the polish is not burned off the comb may stick to the hair causing comb may stick to the hair causing scorching and breakage scorching and breakage

• To temper a new combTo temper a new comb – – • 1.heat until extremely hot 1.heat until extremely hot • 2.coat the comb in petroleum or pressing 2.coat the comb in petroleum or pressing

oil oil • 3.let it cool naturally 3.let it cool naturally • 4.rinse w/ hot running water to remove 4.rinse w/ hot running water to remove

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Cleaning Pressing CombCleaning Pressing Comb

Will perform more efficiently if it Will perform more efficiently if it is kept cleanis kept clean

Remove the carbon by rubbing Remove the carbon by rubbing the outside surface and between the outside surface and between the teeth with a fine steel wool the teeth with a fine steel wool pad or fine sandpaperpad or fine sandpaper

Then place the metal portion of Then place the metal portion of the comb in a hot baking soda the comb in a hot baking soda solution for about 1 hour; rinse solution for about 1 hour; rinse and dryand dry

Pressing oil or creamPressing oil or cream

Pressing oil or cream make the Pressing oil or cream make the hair:hair:

softer softer prepare and condition the hair prepare and condition the hair

for pressing for pressing help prevent burning or help prevent burning or

scorchingscorching help prevent breakage help prevent breakage add sheen to the hairadd sheen to the hair help hair stay pressed longerhelp hair stay pressed longer

Pressing HintsPressing Hints Avoid excessive heat or pressureAvoid excessive heat or pressure Avoid too much pressing oil – will Avoid too much pressing oil – will

smoke and causes hair to look greasysmoke and causes hair to look greasy Avoid perfumed pressing oil near Avoid perfumed pressing oil near

scalp to prevent allergiesscalp to prevent allergies Avoid over frequent hair pressingsAvoid over frequent hair pressings Keep the comb clean at all timesKeep the comb clean at all times Test temperature on tissue paperTest temperature on tissue paper Completely dry hair before pressingCompletely dry hair before pressing

Touch-upsTouch-ups

Sometime necessary when the Sometime necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or perspiration, dampness, or humidityhumidity

The process is the same however The process is the same however you omit the shampooyou omit the shampoo

Styling long hairStyling long hair UpdoUpdo – is a hairstyle with the hair arranged – is a hairstyle with the hair arranged

up and off the shoulders and secured with up and off the shoulders and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobbypins, implements such as hairpins, bobbypins, and elasticsand elastics

Usually requested for special occasions such Usually requested for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening eventsas weddings, proms, and evening events

3 basic updos: chignon, basic French twist, 3 basic updos: chignon, basic French twist, classic French twistclassic French twist

Backcombing and backbrushing are a must Backcombing and backbrushing are a must for updo styling, often times hair is set in for updo styling, often times hair is set in rollers first toorollers first too

Hair should be washed and dried the day Hair should be washed and dried the day before the updo because freshly washed before the updo because freshly washed hair can be slippery and difficult to work hair can be slippery and difficult to work withwith

Basic French TwistBasic French Twist

Classic French Twist/ Classic French Twist/ PleatPleat

Chingnon/ KnotChingnon/ Knot