hair shampoo
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Hair Shampoo. Laundry Detergent. “Cleaning Your Hair vs Cleaning Your Clothes”. Jeff Easley – Sr. Global Performance Improvement Specialist Stepan Company Midwest SCC Meeting March 11, 2014. Objectives…. Compare and Contrast:. Cleaning technology Ingredient types Ingredient functions - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
Hair Shampoo
Laundry Detergent
“Cleaning Your Hair vs Cleaning Your Clothes”Jeff Easley – Sr. Global Performance Improvement Specialist
Stepan CompanyMidwest SCC Meeting
March 11, 2014
Objectives…
• Cleaning technology• Ingredient types• Ingredient functions• Formulations• Performance testing• Regulatory environment
Compare and Contrast:
Cleaning Technology
Cleaning Hair vs Cleaning Fabric
• Different substrates • Many more fabric types than hair types• Soils to be removed differ• Surfactant interfacial phenomena similar• Differences in washing processes
In General…
Detersive SystemsSystem Soil Mechanical
ActionDetergent
Household Laundry
Mixed & Variable
Moderate Unbuilt or Built Surfactant
Hair Shampoo
Oily Vigorous• Rubbing in• Rinse cycle
Organic Surfactant
Progression of Laundry Detergent Forms
Bars Powders Liquids
Heavy Duty Powders(HDP)
Heavy Duty Liquids(HDL)
Also known as:
Product Trends
• Increasing Concentration– 2X, 4X and greater
• Cold Water Cleaning
• Eco-friendly Products– Using “Green” or natural based Ingredients
• Recyclable Packaging
• High Efficiency– Low foaming variants
Comparison of ClaimsHair Shampoo
• Rapid-Drying• Fragrance Free• Dermotologist Recommended• Volumizing• Clarifying• Hypoallergenic• pH Balanced• No Animal Testing• Mild• Moisturizing• Free From…
Laundry Detergent• Botanical/Herbal• Kosher• No Additives/Preservatives• Fragrance Free• Hypoallergenic• Economy• Convenient Packaging• All Natural Product• Ease of Use• pH Neutral• Dermatologically Tested
Interesting Laundry Fact…
Ingredient Types
Ingredient Comparison….Hair Shampoo Laundry Detergent
• Surfactants• Water• pH adjusters• Fragrance• Dye• Preservative• Vitamins• Protein derivatives• Inorganic salts• Humectants• Emollients• Silicones• Thickening agents• Chelants/Sequestrants• Suncreen agents
• Surfactants• Builders• Buffering Agents• Enzymes• Optical Brightener• Polymers• Hydrotropes• Enzyme Stabilizer• Preservative • Colorant• Fragrance• Softening Agent• Bleach• Anti-redepostion
Agent• Filler• Water
Key
Typical Physical PropertiespH Viscosity % Actives
Hair Shampoo Slightly acidic(5.5 – 6.5)
3,500– 7,000 cps at 25C
10-12%(mid-tier)
Household Laundry Detergent(Liquid)
Alkaline(8.0-10.5)
300 – 700 cps at 25C
5-30%
(bargain to premium)
Anionic &NonionicSurfactants
AnionicSurfactant
NonionicSurfactant, Solvents
EnzymesSurfactants, Bleaching Agents
Soils Types and Ingredients to Address Them
Water-soluble Particulate Fats/oils Proteins/ Oxidizablecarbohydrates
Inorganic salts Metal oxides Vegetable oil Blood FruitsSugar Clays Animal fat Egg VegetablesUrea Humus Human sebum Milk WinePerspiration Carbon Mineral oil Grass Coffee
Waxes Starches Tea
Surfactant ComparisonHair Shampoo
• Sulfonates– Alpha Olefin Sulfonate
• Sulfates– Alkyl ether sulfates– Alkyl sulfates
• Alkanolamides• Amphoterics• Methyl Esters• Sulfoacetates• Sulfosuccinates
Laundry Detergent• Sulfonates
– Acids– Neutralized forms
• Sulfates– Alkyl ether sulfates– Alkyl sulfates
• Alkoxylates• Alkanolamides• Methyl esters• Hydrotropes
Common Primary Anionic Surfactant
• Linear Alkylbenzene Sulfonic Acid (LABSA)
– Good foamer – Good detergency – Neutralization necessary – Best carbon chain C11-12 linear– Corrosive in acidic state
Common Primary Anionic Surfactant
• Alkyl Ether Sulfates (AES)
– Foam enhancer – Good hard water tolerance– Carbon chain C12-14 with 2-3 moles EO Preferred– Due to gel phase formation, add other ingredients first– Stable at 4<pH<10
C12-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOSO3- Na+ n = 2 or
3
Other Primary Anionic Surfactant
• Alpha Olefin Sulfonate
– Good foaming– Good detergency– Stable over a broad pH range– Synergism with LAS
CH3(CH2)m CH (CH2)nSO3
- Na+ +
CH3(CH2)m CH (CH2)nSO3
- Na+
Where m = 8 – 14; n = 1-3; and m + n = 9-15
OH
Common Primary Nonionic Surfactant
• Alcohol Ethoxylates
– Mid to high HLB preferred– Good grease cleaner– Low foam generation– Stable in alkaline solutions– Compatible with anionics/cationics
C12-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOH n = 7-9
Common Secondary Surfactant
• Amine Oxides (AO)
• Alcohol Ethoxylates (low HLB)
• Alkanolamides
• Soap (defoamer)
NOH
OH
O
C11-17
CH 3(CH 2)11
NCH 3
CH 3
O
CH 3(CH 2)11
NCH 3
CH 3
OHH
C11-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOH n = 2-4
O
C11-17 O- Na+
Ingredient Functions
Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents
Role of Surfactants
The Ideal Surfactant
Other Considerations
• Hydration of fabrics and soils• Solubilization of greases/oils• Suspension of hydrophobic soils• Generation of suds
Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents
Role of Surfactants
The Ideal Surfactant
Other Considerations
• Low CMC• Low Krafft temperature• High solubility in hard/cold water• Lowest air/water surface tension• Low oil interfacial tension• Fast kinetics
Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents
Role of Surfactants
The Ideal Surfactant
Other Considerations• Low cost to performance ratio• Excellent environmental
profile• Excellent human safety profile
Surfactant Function in HDL Formulas
• Primary Surfactants Provide:– Good foaming– Good detergency (removing soils from clothes)– Emulsification and solubilization of soils or dirt
Surfactants Function in HDL Formulas
• Secondary Surfactants Provide:–Foam enhancement–Cleaning enhancement–High viscosity formulas–Solubilization of other ingredients
Functions of Some Commonly Used Laundry Additives
• Builders• Antiredeposition Agents• Dye transfer inhibitors• Soil release polymers• Optical brighteners• Enzymes• Control additives for pH, viscosity, foam• Preservatives, Perfume, Dye
Formulation Comparison
Primary Surfactants (5-40%) Hydrotropes (0-5%)
Secondary Surfactant (0.5-3%) Enzyme Stabilizer (0-5%)
Buffering Agents (1-8%) Preservative (0-0.05%)
Builders (1-7%) Colorant (0-0.1%)
Enzymes (0-1.5%) Fragrance (0-1%)
Optical Brightener (0.02-2%) Softening Agent (0-7%)
Polymers (0-1%)
Formulation IngredientsHDLs
Primary Surfactants (5-15%) Polymers (0-1%)
Builders (10-30%) Anti-caking Agent
Bleach (0-5%) Filler (30-60%)
Anti-redeposition Agent (0-1.5%) Colorant (0-0.1%)
Enzymes (0-1.5%) Fragrance (0-1%)
Optical Brightener (0.02-2%) Softening Agent (0-7%)
Formulation IngredientsHDPs
Premium Laundry Formula
INGREDIENTS % Wt. RANGE FUNCTIONALITY
DODECYL BENZENE SULFONIC ACID 10-15 Primary Anionic Surfactant
SODIUM ALKYL ETHER SULFATE 7-10 Primary Anionic Surfactant
LINEAR ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE 12-18 Primary Nonionic Surfactant
SODIUM XYLENE SULFONATE 2-4 Hydrotrope
HARDENED COCONUT FATTY ACID 0.5-2 Foam Modifier
SODIUM HYDROXIDE (50% solution) 3-5 Neutralizer
BORAX PENTAHYDRATE 0.5-3 Stabilizer
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1-3 Stabilizer
CITRIC ACID (50% solution) 2-4 Builder
TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.25-1 pH Buffer
MONOETHANOLAMINE 0.25-1 pH Buffer
FLUORESCENT WHITENING AGENT 0.05-1.5 Brightener
PROTEASE 0.5-2 Enzyme
AMYLASE 0.2-1 Enzyme
DI WATER, FRAGRANCE, COLORANT AND PRESERVATIVE q.s..to 100 Additives
Economy Laundry Formula
INGREDIENTS % Wt. RANGE FUNCTIONALITY
DODECYL BENZENE SULFONIC ACID 3-7 Primary Anionic Surfactant
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 4-9 Primary Anionic Surfactant
LINEAR ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE 5-8 Primary Nonionic Surfactant
SODIUM CARBONATE (100% powder) 2-4 pH Buffer/Builder
SODIUM HYDROXIDE (50% solution) 0.5-2 Neutralizer
FLUORESCENT WHITENING AGENT 0.0-0.2 Brightener
DI WATER, FRAGRANCE, COLORANT AND PRESERVATIVE q.s.to 100 Additives
Performance Testing
Cleaning Performance ASTM Methods D 4265-98 (stains) and D 3050-07 (artificial soils)• Washing:
– HE (High Efficiency) and top loading machines– Temperature controlled wash and rinse– 6-lb ballast– Purchased standard stained/soiled fabrics with dust sebum, clay,
grass, red wine, cocoa, coffee, blueberry, blood/ink/milk, make-up among others
– Duplicate washes
• Data Analysis:– Hunter Spectrophotometer Software and LabScan
XE sensor
SRI = 100 - Lclean
( - L washed
) 2
+ (aclean
- a washed
) 2
+ (bclean
- b washed
)2
DSRI = SRIexperimental - SRIcontrol
Regulatory Environment
Some Regulatory Matters…Item At Issue… Hair
ShampooLaundry
Detergent
1,4-Dioxane Carcinogen Yes No
Diethanolamide Carcinogen Yes No
Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates
Reproductive, Developmental effects
No Yes
Nitrosamine Carcinogen Yes No
Phosphates Eutrophication Yes Yes
Summary• Surfactants are the key to both laundry detergent and
hair shampoo formulations
• There are several similarities and differences between laundry detergent and hair shampoo formulations
• Personal Care formulators can formulate laundry detergents too with a little know how
• Never use a laundry detergent as a substitute for hair shampoo !!
References
Available Upon Request
Contact information:Jeff EasleySr. Global Performance Improvement SpecialistStepan CompanyDirect Dial: 847-501-2239Fax: 847-446-9359Email: [email protected]