HAIR REMOVALChapter 22 – 12’

Introduction One of the fastest growing services Types

Lip/brow Chin Arms Legs Bikini – art form of its own Brazilian

Men Nape of neck Chest Back Most common forms in salons and spas

Men Fashion trend hairless

Legs, arms, chests Sports

Cycling, swimming, body building Legs and arms, occasionally entire body

Hirsuties

Hypertrichosis Growth of an unusual amount of hair on

body parts normally bearing only downy hair

Faces of women Backs of men

History of treatments Early Egyptian tombs

Abrasive materials Pumice stone – used to rub away hair Ancient Greek & Roman women similar

methods

Native Americans – Sharpened stones and seashells Rub off and pluck out hair

Ancient Turks – used Rusma – a combination of yellow

sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water

crude depilatory (ex. Nair)

Two Major Categories Permanent Temporary

Most salons limited to this

Client Consultation ALWAYS necessary Questionnaire

Medications – topical/oral Skin disorders Allergies/sensitivities

changes can occur between visits

Medications - may not be able to receive services Antidepressants Hormones Cortisone Blood pressure Diabetes Retin A® Renova hydroquinone

Contraindication Condition that requires avoiding certain

treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.

Contraindications for Hair Removal Clients should not have ANY waxing or

hair removal performed if anywhere on the body if they have any of the following without medical clearance Accutane – 6 months Blood thinning medications Drugs for autoimmune disease including

lupus Psoriasis, eczema, other chronic skin

disease

Prednisone or steroids Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery

within 3 months Laser treatment Severe varicose veins Questionable medical condition

Facial waxing should not be performed on any of the following conditions without medical clearance Rosacea/very sensitive skin History of fever blisters or cold sores Recent chemical peel - glycolic, alpha

hydroxy, salicylic acid or other acid based products

Recent microdermabrasion Use of exfoliating topical medication Laser skin treatment or surgical peel Use of hydroquinone for skin lightening

Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis

Removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of hair

Current is applied with a very fine needle-shaped electrode inserted into the hair follicle

License electrologist http://hairremoval.about.com/od/electrol

ysis/a/Electrolysis101.htm

Photoepilation Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Uses intense light to destroy the growth

cells of the hair follicles No needles – minimizes risk of infection 50 % – 60% clearance of hair in 12

weeks

Administered by some cosmetologists/estheticians – depends on state law

Mfg. – generally provide special training http://www.estheticon.com/video/photo

epilation-2

Laser Hair Removal

Laser beam pulsed on skin, impairing growth

Most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth/anagen phase

Absolute requirement in that the hair must be darker than surrounding skin

Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment

Not for everyone Permanent hair removal for some clients For others it slows down regrowth Some states allowed under supervision

of doctor Requires special training Offered by equipment mfg. http://hairremoval.about.com/od/laser/a/

laser101.htm http://www.palomarmedical.com/treatm

ents/hair-removal.aspx

Laws Vary by state to state Check state guidelines

Temporary Hair Removal Shaving Tweezing Electronic Tweezers Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring

Shaving Most common form Men’s faces Area softened by

applying warm moist towel Shaving cream/lotion with lubrication and

calms the skin Electric clipper/trimmer - nape area Apply pre-shaving lotion to lessen irritation PP 693 – did you know?

Tweezing Commonly used for eyebrows Mouth and chin Correctly shaped eyebrows have:

Strong, positive impact on overall attractiveness

Natural arch of eyebrow follows shape of orbital bone

Electronic Tweezers Transmits radio frequency energy down

shaft to follicle Papilla dehydrated and eventually

destroyed Energy is applied first at low level to

pre-warm and then up to 2 minutes Not a method of permanent hair

removal

Depilatories Is a substance used for the temporary

removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at the skin level Caustic alkali product Contains detergents to strip sebum (oil) Adhesives to hold the chemicals to the

shaft for 5 – 10 minutes Hair expands and disulfide bonds break

Chemicals – to destroy the disulfide bonds Sodium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Thioglycolic acid Calcium thioglycolate

Turn the hair into a soft jelly-like mass that can be scraped off

Requires a patch test – to see if sensitive to the action of the depilatory

Predisposition test Allergy test Hairless part of the arm Apply small amount – mfg. directions 7 – 10 minutes

Signs – negative reaction No swelling No redness No rash Can be used safely on larger of the skin Follow mfg. directions PP 694 – Focus on the Consultation Table 22-1

Epilators Removes hair from the bottom of the

follicle Common form - wax

Cold – Thicker Does not require fabric strips

Hot Requires fabric strips Test for temperature

4- 6 weeks regrowth

Applied to various parts of the face & body hair must be ¼” – ½” for waxing to be

effective Do not remove vellus hair – causes skin to

lose softness Client consultation Sign release form – not valid in PA Wear disposable gloves – prevent contact

with bloodborne pathogens

Safety Precautions Test temperature No contact with eyes Do not use over moles, warts,

abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin Under arm – cold wax Apply aloe to redness and swelling

reactions Caution box 695

Threading Practiced in Eastern cultures

The manipulation of cotton thread – twisted and rolled along skin surface Entwining hair in the thread and lifting

from follicle Increasing popularity in America –

Florida Requires special training

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gAK8im1ITk

Eyebrow Threading Tutorial. Learn how to thread eyebrows - YouTube

Sugaring Use of thick, sugar-based paste Appropriate for sensitive skin Advantage is can be used on 1/8” Sugaring

- See the Sugaring Technique for Hair Removal Video

Procedures Pre-service

Service Tip – PP697 Tweezing - PP 701

Here’s a Tip – PP 702

Hot Waxing eyebrows PP 703 Here’s a Tip - PP 704

Body waxing PP 705 Here’s a Tip - PP 705 Here’s a Tip - PP 706