hair growth promoter

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 1

Anti-hairloss and Hair growth promoter

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Hair growth cycle

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Hair cycle of head hair shaft

Stage of the hair cycleAnagen : the growing phaseCatagen: the intermediate phaseTelogen : the shedding phase 4

Hair growth cycle

Exp. Gerontol. 2002;37:981-90.

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Hair follicle gradually terminated Terminal hair changes to vellus hair

Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 6-8 : 1 NormalVellus hair : Terminal hair = 0.1-3.9 : 1 Bald

Hair Loss

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Causes of hair loss

Reduction in hair follicle function due to male hormones

Reduction in metabolic functions of hair follicles and hair bulbsReduction in scalp physiological functions

Local impairment of circulation due to tension in the scalp


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Physical stressEmotional stressDiet considerationsHormonal causesEndocrinopathyOral medications:

Blood thinning agentsRetinoidsAntihypertensive agentsMiscellaneous

Hair Loss

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Overall causes

AndrogenGenetic Age

Testosterone 5α-Dihydrotestosterone

Androgenic alopecia

9Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 10Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283.

11J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2001;45(suppl):S70-80.

Regions of scalp potentially involved in pattern hair loss12

A. Regional scalp hair density scale

B. Regional scalp zones F : Frontal

M : Mid

T : Temporal

V : Vertex

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62.


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Hair loss patterns in male


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Male Pattern Diffuse Frontal Accentuation

(Hamilton/Norwood) (Ludwig) (Olsen)

Hair loss patterns in female


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Graduation of hair loss in Ludwig pattern

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 16

Graduation of hair loss in frontal accentuation pattern


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Savin patterns of hair loss

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1999;40:106-9. 18

Big head? Bald head?

Med. Hypo. 2009; 72: 23-28.


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Hair care products

Hair cleansing productsHair growth promotersHair grooming cosmeticsHair waving and straightening productsHair coloring products

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Basic ingredient and functionDetergent : removes dirt, styling products, sebum and skin scale from hair and scalpFoaming agent: allows shampoo to foamConditioner : soften and smoothen hair after sebum removalThickener : thicken shampooOpacifier : makes shampoo opaque

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Basic ingredient and functionSequestering agent : prevent soap scum from forming on hair and scalp in hard water

pH adjusters or neutralizer : minimize hair damage from baseFragrance : give acceptable smell

Preservative : prevent microbial and fungal contaminations

Specialty additive : treatment ingredient or marketing aid to impart other benefit to shampoo

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Basic shampoo categoriesNormal hair shampooDry hair shampooDamaged hair shampooOily hair shampooEveryday shampooDeep cleaning shampooBaby shampooMedicated shampooConditioning shampooHair dyeing shampooEthnic shampoo

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Active ingredients : Hair loss

Finasteride : 5α-reductase Type II inhibitorMinoxidil : vasodilator (long lasting anagen)Dutasteride or GI198745 : 5α-reductase inhibitorIamin or prezatide copper : 5α-reductase inhibitorFolligen or copper chloride : 5α-reductase inhibitorZinc : hair growth, 5α-reductase Type I inhibitorPolysorbate 80 : hair growing improvement

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MK-386 or β-dimethyl-4-aza-5-cholestan-3-one: 5α-reductase inhibitorWO9704002 : 5α-reductase inhibitorFCE28260 : 5α-reductase inhibitor

FCE26073 or Turosteride : 5α-reductase Type II inhibitorKetoconazole : Androgenetic blocker



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Canrenone 2%Spironolactone 3%DexamethasonePrednisone Cyclosporin ACyproterone acetateFlutamideDrospirenoneBromocriptine


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Amino acids : hair growth and healthy, 5α-reductase inhibitorBiotin : hair nutrient and hair growthFolic acid : hair nutrient and hair growthProcyanidin B3 : hair thickener Azelaic acid : strong DHT inhibitorFerritinB7, B12


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PhytoestrogensIsoflavone

DaizeinGenisteinGlycitein

LignansEnterodiolEnterlactone

BisnapthaquinoneCapsaicin (-)-epoglaaocatechin-3-gallate Soymethide-4


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5α-reductase inhibitorHair regrowth promoter

Essential fatty acidγ-linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acidpalmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acidEvening primrose oilEmu oil

β-sitosterol

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Saw palmetto : Serenoa repens

- DHT formation inhibitor

- 5α-reductase inhibitor

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Pygeum : Pygeum africanum

- Androgenic blocker



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Holy basil : Ocimum sanctum

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Chillies

- Capsaicin

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Fenugreek : Trigonella foenum

- Multivitamin B

- Hair root strengthen


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False daisy: Eclipta alba

- Hair growth promoter

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False daisy: Eclipta alba

87.5480.4 ± 41.266 ± 7.33.2 mg E.alba

50417.4 ± 35.939 ± 8.41.6 mg E.alba

87.5253.25 ± 6.673 ± 8.22% minoxidil

87.5160.2 ± 1069 ± 3.91% minoxidil

Anagen induction, %Skin thickness, μmFolicle count Treatment

J. Ethanopharmacol. 2009. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2009.05.023

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Fennel : Foeniculum vulgare

- Antiinflammatory




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Nettle : Urtica dioica

- Androgenic blocker- DHT blocker - 5α-reductase inhibitor- Blood circulator

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Bayberry : Myrica rubra

- 5α-reductase inhibitor- Hair growth stimulant- Anti hair loss

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Arborvitae : Thuja- 5α-reductase Type II inhibitor- sebum reduction

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Arborvitae : Thuja

0.34 μMFinasteride

2.6 μg/mlT. occidentalis

5.55 μg/ml (19.93 μM)γ-Linolenic acid

31.55 μg/ml (112.50 μM)Linoleic acid

5α-reductase Type II inhibitor, IC50 Compounds

J. Dermatol. Sci. 2003; 31: 91-98.

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Gourds

- 5α-reductase inhibitor- Anti hair loss

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Avocado : Persea americana

- 5α-reductase Type I inhibitor- Sebum secretion reduction- Antidandruff- Antiitching


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Hop : Humulus lupulus

- 5α-reductase inhibitor- Hair growth stimulant- Scalp tonics

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Burdock : Arctium lappa

- Scalp tonics

- Antidandruff

- Antiitching

- Anti hair loss

- Hair sheening

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Pumpkin


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Grape seeds

- proanthocyanidins

- in vitro hair follicle proliferation promotion

- in vivo Telogen converts to Anagen

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Willow - Antiinflammatory


- Hair loss treatment

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Black cohosh : Cimicifuga racemosa



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Soy bean Flax seed

- 5α-reductase inhibitor- Grey hair treatment

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Ginkgo : Ginkgo biloba

- Hair regrowth promoter- Astringent- Epidermis growth stimulant- Antiinflammatory- Radical scavenger

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Tea : Camellia sinensis

- Antioxidant


-5α-reductase inhibitor

-Similar activity with saw palmetto

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Sophora : Sophora flavescens

- 5α-reductase Type II inhibitor

- Anagen elongation activity

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Licorice : Glycyrrhiza glabra



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Breadfruit: Artocarpus incisus

5α-reductase Type II inhibitor

- Chlorophorin IC50 37 μM

- Artocarpin IC50 85 μM

Melanin biosynthesis inhibition

Planta Medica 2000; 66: 16-19.


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Henna : Lawsonia inermis Linn.

Hair growth accelerator -Leaf extracts have mild antiinflammatory and antiallergic action and analgesic effect

Impart dark red shades : Lawsone

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Aloe : Aloe vera L.

- Traditionally for hair loss

- Improve hair growth following alopecia

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Rhinacanthus nasutus Kurz.


- Grey hair treatment

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Butterfly pea : Clitoria ternatea

- Antiinflammatory

- Antioxidant

- Hair growth promoter

- Grey hair recover

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Citrus hystrix DC.

- Wound healing

- Antidandruff

- Soft & smooth hair60

Citrus grandis

Skin & scalp tonic

Exfoliation refresh


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Sapindus rarak A. DC.

Wound healing

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Acacia concinna DC.

- Cleansing

- Shining

- Antidandruff

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Sesame : Sesamum indicum Linn.

- Skin & scalp soother

- Antioxidant

- Natural moisturizer

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Centella asiatica (L.) Urb.Antioxidant Wound healingBlood circulationScalp conditioningEnergy stimulant DetergentAnti hair loss

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Coconut : Cocos nucifera Linn.

- Saturated fatty acid

- Lauric acid

- Myristic acid

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Cymbopogon citratus Stapf

- Oily and grease hair treatment- Antidandruff - Antiseptic


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Garlic : Allium sativum L.

- Dandruff control- Antiseptic- Tonic- Antioxidant- Antiinflammatory- Antibacterial- Antifungal

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Ginger : Zingiber officinale Roscoe

- Antiinflammatory- Blood circulation stimulant- Muscle relaxation - Hair loss treatment

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Ginseng : Panax ginseng

- Skin & scalp soften- Aniinflammaroty- Blood circulation- Cell regeneration

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Rice: Oryza sativa

- Skin & scalp conditioning- Moisturizer - Emollient - Antioxidant

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Almond: Prunus amygdalus

- Skin conditioning- Moisturizer - Sun protect

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Sage : Salvia officinalis L.

- Hair conditioning- Maintain the sheen of dark curly hair- Strengthen and stimulate hair growth- Antidandruff- Anti hair loss- Greasy hair treatment


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Rosemary : Rosmarinus officinalis Linn.

- Stimulate hair growth- Antioxidant - Greasy hair conditioner- Gives body and sheen to hair- Daily antidandruff treatment

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Thyme :Thymus vulgaris L.

- Inhibit dandruff

- A scalp rub to prevent hair falling out

- Promote natural hair health

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Swertia japonica Makino

- abdominal pain- skin infection- blood circulation- hair growth stimulant

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- Eczema

- Acne

- Hair loss

- Scalp itching

- Scalp peeling

- Dandruff

- Emollient

- Skin disorder treatment: crack, abrasion, frostbite, chaps

- Sun burn treatment

- Nappy rashes

English Walnut Juglans regia L.

Black walnut : Juglan nigra

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Honey

- Hair growth promoter- Skin & scalp conditioning

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Propolis

- Antifungal - Antibacterial - Similar activity with aloe


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14Fruit juices Citrus hystrix79Leaves Ixora maerothyra 75Leaves Artocarpus altilis53Leaves Mitragyna hirsuta51Leaves Piper betle47Fruits Passiflora foetida47Leaves Eucalyptus sp.

29Flowers Clitoria ternatea

25Fruit peelsCitrus hystrix

25Leaves Leucaena leucocephala

23Leaves Flagellaria indica

21Fruits Acacia concinna

5Leaves Albizia myriophylla

0Leaves Tamarindus indica

0Leaves Alpinia galanga5α-reductase inhibitory activity, %Parts Plants

J. Wood Sci. 2000; 46: 385-389 Conc. 200 μg/ml 80

Provillus

Hair loss treatment example products

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- Kigelia africana

- Salvia sclarea

- Gingko biloba

- Cinnamomum zeylanicum

- Panax ginseng

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- Niacin- Biotin- Plant Phytosterols- Saw Palmetto Berry- Macadameia Nut oil- Borage Oil- Evening Primrose oil- Pygeum africana- Green tea extract


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Minoxidil 5% w/v for men

Minoxidil 2% for women


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- Linolenic acid- Linoleic Acid- Oleic Acid- Azaleic acid- Vitamin B6- Zinc- Saw Palmetto Extract- β-Sitosterol- Procyanidin Oligomers



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- Hops extract - Rosemary extract

- Swertia extract

- Si compounds

- Panthenol


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- Saw palmetto- zinc- nettles- pumpkin seed extract


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Hair loss treatment example products- Soy bean

- Panax ginseng

- Castanea sativa

- Arinca montana

- Hedera helix

- Geranium maculatum

- Inositol, Panthenol

- Cystine, Cysteine, Methionine

- Biotin 88


- Swertia extract

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- Biotin- Zinc PCA- Panax ginseng, Ginkgo biloba, Swertiajaponica, Palmaria palmata, Soy bean germ,Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts - Simmondsia chinensis Oil,- Benzyl Nicotinate, Inositol, L-Cystine,Cysteine, Choline, Niacin, Methionine

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Mice hair lengthhair growth area

Rabbits hair length and weight

Hamsterssebaceous glands size (in vivo)5α-reductase inhibition (in vitro)DHT receptor inhibition (in vitro)

Monkeyshair growth at head

Animals

Hair growth promoters evaluations

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Hair growth promoters evaluations

hair roots culturehair root cells culture

Tissue culture

photographic evaluationtrichogram method5α-reductase inhibitionhair wash testblood flow measurement

Humans

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Hair growth promoters evaluations : Mice

30 days application of Asiasari radix extract 1% solution in 40% EtOH

J. Dermsci. 2005; 38:89-97. 94

Hair Loss / Hair Growth

Principle- Anti-hair loss efficacy- Anti-hair regrowth products- Videomicroscope visualizationsProtocol design- Long term studies: M0-M1-M2- Up to M0-M3-M6 studies- Female and male volunteers- No age criteria

Biometrological Test

Videotrichogram®

D0 D2

Illustrations : the telogenous hairs

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Selected references Lee OS, Kang HH, Han SH. 1997. Oriental herbs in cosmetics. Cosmet Toiletries 112:57-64.Kameyama S. 1995. Application and consideration of medicinal plants for hair care products. Frag J 23:28-34.Takahashi T, Kamiya T, Yokoo Y. 1998. Proanthocyanidins from grape seeds promote proliferation of mouse hair follicle cells in vitro and convert hair cycle in vivo. Acta Derm Venerol 78:428-432.Kim SH, Jeong KS, Ryu SY, Kim TH. 1998. Panax ginseng prevents apoptosis in hair follicles and accelerates recovery of hair medullary cells in irradiated mice. In vivo 12:219-222.Camacho-Martínez FM. 2009. Hair loss in women. Semi. Cutan. Med. Surg. 28:19-32.Yonenaga M. 2001. Henna leaf extracts and makeup materials containing henna. Jpn Kokai Tokkyo Koho Patent JP2001335496.Bruneton J. 1999. Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants. Lavoisier Publishing: Paris.

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hair growth promoter

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