hair conditioner
DESCRIPTION
TRANSCRIPT
• Provides color retention benefits for color-treated hair
• Reduce the forces associated with brushing of the hair
• The reduction or prevention of flyaway hair
specially by cationic conditioners
Benefits
• Feel softer
• Vitamin
• Repair of damaged hair
• Strengthening of hair
• Repair of split ends
• Increase in hair shine
• Increasing the ease of brushing
HAIR FIBER central cortex
“cuticle.”
8 to 10 layers of overlapping cells
responsible for the tensile properties of the hair
hair feelshine comb ability
No conditioner
With conditioner
Virgin Hair SurfacesHair that has not been chemically treated
as a result of a layer of fatty acids
covalently bound to the outermost
surface of the cuticle
As a result of its protein structure the hair surface has an isoelectric point near 3.67 which insures that the surface will contain negatively charged
hydrophilic sites at the ordinary pH levels of hair care
products
mix of hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity
cystine In the hair
UVcystine S-sulfonate
cysteic acid
The tip portions of the hair, being older than the root portions
therefore be more hydrophilic- ---
affecting the nature of species that can bind to these sites.
the surface friction of hair tips is highergreater combing damage
This eventually results in destruction of the covalently
bound lipid layerand a feeling of dryness at
the tips
the tip ends of hair require more
conditioning than the rest of the fiber
Without sufficient conditioning, the cuticle
layer iseventually lost, resulting
in a split end
Chemically Treated Hair Surfacespermingbleaching permanent dyeing
significant damage to the hair fiber
tensile damagemodify the surface of the hairIntroducing negative charges oxidation of cystine to cysteic acid transformation of the fiber surface from a
hydrophobic to hydrophilic
treated hair generally requires more conditioning than virgin
hair
conditioner, can prolong the health of the hair fiber
COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS
• thick Vaseline pomades•creams•gels• mousses• lotions • spray mists.
Forms:
leave-in products
Classes :
regular rinseoff conditioners
intensive treatment conditioners
normally applied after shampoofollowed by a rinsing stepThis is the most common form of
conditioner sold.
regular rinse-off conditioners
Not for daily application. They are used for intensive treatment contain a higher level of active ingredients that
are kept on the hair for a longer period of time sold as thicker creams to provide the perception
of higher conditioning.
Intensive treatment conditioners
lighter and can potentially provide more significant benefits than rinse-off products
everything applied stays on the hair until the next shampoo.
come in various forms, such as detanglers, leave-in lotions, and sprays.
They are marketed either for single application or multiple applications during the day.
Leave-in products
What about
me?? !!!
KEY INGREDIENTS OF HAIR CONDITIONERS
Cationic Surfactants
Lipophilic Conditioners Polymers
Silicones
Auxiliary Ingredients
Cationic Surfactantsthe most widely used agents in commercial products
EffectivenessVersatilityAvailability low cost
stearalkonium chlorideCetrimonium chloridedicetyldimonium chloride
Benefits Examples
• chloride• bromide• Methosulfate
counter anions
• they are substantive to hair and bind to negative sites on the hair surface.
Because of the positive charge
• hydrophobic coating on the fiber that render the hair softer and easier to comb
• Buildup of static charge (flyaway) is also greatly reduced as a result of this surface modification
• deposition increases withincreasing negative charge on the hair surface
The Results
generally carry a greater amount of negative charge
damaged portions of the hair
Are you sure ??!!
deposition and degree of penetration into the hair fiber
interaction between cationic conditioners and the hair fiber mainly occurs at the surface
low–molecular weight materials may penetrate the interior via intercellular diffusion
can penetrate the cuticular sheath as well as cortex
Cetrimonium bromide (CETAB)
Conditioner Properties and Hydrophobicity
• Binding of Stearalkonium Chloride to Human Hair
Type of hair Quat deposition at roots
(mg/g hair)
Quat deposition at tips(mg/g hair)
Virgin hair 0.649 0.789
Bleached hair
1.62 1.83
more hydrophobic leads to increased deposition on hair
deposits on hair
Cetrimonium chloride
Laurtrimonium chloride
tricetylmonium chloride
dicetyldimonium chloride
monocetyl quat
provide heavier
conditioning
cetrimonium chloride
dicetyldimonium
Provides light to
medium conditioning
tricetylmonium chlorides
Detangling and wet combing, in particular, improve significantly from monocetyl to dicetyl to tricetyl quats
Note that on some types of hair, the greater substantivity of higher conditioning quats can lead to buildup with repeated use and result in limp, unmanageable hair.
e.g
A tricetyl quat might be used, in an intensive conditioner meant only for occasional use.
& conditioner
commercial conditioners and shampoos
because of its incompatibility with common anionic detergents
The quaternium compounds normally used in commercial conditioners are not generally found in shampoos
• polyethylene glycol (PEG)• cocomonium chloride
Both of these quats are compatible with typical anionic detergents
decreases the conditioning efficacy suitable only in light conditioning Formulationsconditioning shampoos based on ethoquats would
not be expected to be very effective as a result of low deposition of the detergent-soluble ethoquat complex
Example “Ethoquats.”
Introducing hydrophilic groups
alkylamidopropyldihydroxypropyl dimonium chlorides lauryl methyl gluceth hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride hydrolyzed ginseng-saponin quaternary derived
from Korean ginseng saponin
Other detergent-soluble quats :
low irritation
the same conditioning limitations as the ethoquats.
Other Cationic Surfactants
Behentrimonium(C22)
reduced eye and skin irritation
(longer fatty chain)
superior conditioning and thickening properties
Tallow octyl dimonium chloride
provides high conditioning as a result of its two hydrophobic chains.
soluble in water as a result of branching easier to formulate into a commercial product.
Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate
immidazoline-based quats
claimed a softening effect on fabrics or hair. have also been disclosed led to the synthesis of ester quats that exhibit
biodegradability affect environmental safety
Guerbet alcohols
hydrolyzed keratin
Distearyldimonium chloride
milk proteinsoy and wheat protein
Amines (with fatty chains)
low pH protonation cationic
such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
cationicEmulsifiers and conditioning agents
Different acids may have different effects on
the viscosity of the final product.
Lipophilic Conditioners• long-chain fatty conditioners
cetyl alcohols stearyl alcohols
Boost the conditioning effects of the quaternary compoundsReduced in wet combing forces on hair Reduced surface friction.
Function
cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols mixtures
form lamellar liquid crystal mesophases and gel networks increase viscosity confer stability upon emulsions
manufacturing
solids at room temperaturerequiring heatingto incorporate into a productthe cooling rate is not so rapid
glycol distearatetriglyceridesfatty esterswaxes of triglyceridesliquid paraffin
Other lipids
Polymers(Cationic Polymers)
improved wet combing reduced static charge
Polyquaternium - 6Polyquaternium-7Polyquaternium-10Polyquaternium-11Polyquaternium-16
Examples:
the higher the charge density, the lower the weight of polymer needed to neutralize all of the negative chargeon the hair.
cationic charge density
Care must be taken, to avoid over-conditioning as a result of buildup with continued use
multiple points of electrostatic attachment
harder to remove
deposition of polyquaterniums increases on treated or damaged hair.
commercial conditioners and shampoos
compatible to varying degrees with anionic surfactants
used more in shampoos than in stand-alone conditioners
they find some use in leave-in conditioners.
Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7)
• The most frequently used polymers in commercial shampoos.
• Conditioning from shampoos is significantly less than from stand-alone conditioners.
• Buildup • heavy coated feel on the hair • they are should carefully formulated.
polyquaternium association complexes formed with sodium lauryl sulfate resist removal from hair
some polyquaternium materials improve adhesion of the cuticle scales thereby increasing resistance to scale uplift when the hair is stressed
amphiphilc polymersamphoteric polymers block copolymers graft polymers dendrimers
Other Polymers
use as conditioning agentsstabilizers, deposition agents
because of cost, they are rare.
Siliconessilicone quats, Amodimethicone dimethicone, Dimethicone copolyoldimethiconol, C
on
dit
ion
ing
eff
ect
solublemay not be as effective in rinse-
off products
insoluble
must therefore be emulsified
Silicone emulsions can vary in:
1) charge (anionic, cationic, or nonionic),2) size (microemulsion or macroemulsion), 3) how they are made (mechanical or emulsion polymerization)
the smaller the size of the silicone particles, the more stable the product emulsion
reducing the particle size improves conditioning performance
If a preformedsilicone emulsion is
not used????
heat
shear
to control particle size
of the silicone droplets
Conditioning Properties of Silicones
Lubricity Spread easily on the hair surface Ease of combing and imparts a
smooth, soft feel to the hair without greasiness.
Dimethicone lowered frictional coefficients and surface energy of
virgin hair to a greater extent than a series of cationic surfactants,
including distearydimonium chloride, a very effective conditioning agent.
Measure conditioning effect on slightly bleached European hair
Dimethicone fluids
Dimethiconol gums more effective in reducing dry
combing forces.
wet combing was roughly the same
Experiment
1
Exposure to silicone solutions
Experiment
2for 30 secondsfollowed by drying without rinsing presence of tricetylmonium chloride (quat)
double deposition of all siliconesReduction in combing forces was also roughly
doubled
Synergistic Effect
Effects of a series of silicone emulsions on bleached and
virgin hair
Experiment
3
Silicones
Emulsions
dimethicones oramodimethicones
anionicneutralcationic
Emulsions were applied directly to the hair and combing forces measured both before and after rinsing
Before rinsingreduction of combing forces by most emulsions was
greater than 80%.
the least change in ease of combing was found for cationic emulsions,especially those containing amodimethicone
After rinsing
Combing forces on virgin hair increased less than on bleached hair after rinsing
The silicones were more substantive to virgin
hair
Effects of Amodimethicones Experiment
3Deposition on hair was found to
increase with increasing amine content in the silicone
Microemulsion in the test series that provided high conditioning was also shown to significantly reduce the color fading caused by shampoo of temporarily dyed hair
Other SiliconesCyclomethicone
volatile and will not remain on dry hair, especially after blow-drying
It helps other conditioning agents to disperse
helps improve wet combing and provides transient shine
widely used as a solvent to reduce the viscosity of silicone gums with much higher molecular weights.
phenyl trimethicone
dimethicone copolyol phosphates
high refractive index, close to that of hair,
commonly used in leave-in conditioners to enhance the shine of hair fibers
anionic functional silicones
able to complex with tertiary amines of cationic hair conditioners and form effective emulsifiers and conditioners
fluorocarbon-modified organosilicones
very hydrophobic like dimethicone; however, they are claimed to have a lighter and more lubricious feel
silicone blends
blends of these materials
having different molecular weights
different functional groups
silicones with other hydrophobic oils
improve overall conditioning benefits
2-in-1 Shampoos
& conditioner
Silicones find important application as the primary conditioning agents in 2-in-1 conditioningshampoos
the shampoo emulsion breaks, releasing the silicone for deposition on hair.
Dimethicone
The conditioning agent used most frequently in 2-in-1 shampoos
provide good performance in shampoo formulations without excessive buildup on the hair
Newer formulations
Dimethicone emulsions AmodimethiconesDimethiconols, Copolyols Combinations of these different types
The level of conditioning from 2-in-1 shampoos is lower than that from stand-alone conditioners
Many 2-in-1 products contain polyquats, which might be expected to increase conditioning on damaged hair
Polyquat performance on treated hair may be no better than Dimethicone as a result of formation of the negatively charged polymer complexes
in 2-in-1 shampoos
soluble dimethiconecopolyols did not perform well
Dimethicone Amodimethicone
Dimethiconecopolyols
combing Similar Similar Law conditioning Similar Similar Law foam volume reduced minimal effect minimal effect
Auxiliary Ingredients
Preservatives
Thickeners
Humectants
Emulsifiers
Others
FragrancesDyespearlizers herbal extractsvitamins
Preservatives
insure the microbiological integrity
If the product contains high concentrations of ethyl alcohol (generally 20% or above), additional preservatives are not needed and the product is described as self-preserving.
Most of the preservatives used in personal care products are described in the Cosmetic Preservatives Encyclopedia
ThickenersCationic conditioning polymers can also act as
thickeners
Hydroxyethylcellulose
a nonionic cellulose ether compatible with cationic surfactants and stable over a wide pH range
the most common thickening agent added to conditioning products
increased viscosity, this material stabilizes viscosity over time
Polyamidescan be used to emulsify and thicken lotion or
cream conditioners
Polyacrylate-based thickeners
such as carbopol
in the past these thickeners have not always been compatible with cationic surfactants
Recently, new thickeners based on polyacrylate chemistry have been commercialized to address this issue.
Humectants
purpose is to attract moisture
Examples propylene glycol Glycerin Honey Chitosan hyaluronic acid
Not expected to be very effective in rinse-off products.
Emulsifiers
Most emulsifiers used in conditioners are nonionic including:Ethoxylated fatty alcoholsEthoxylated fatty estersEthoxylated sorbitan fatty esters.
To be …………healthy & beautiful