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September 2009 ECM 845Simplifyle 7

HAIR STYLING MARKET REPORT

France The French hair styling market wascertainly lacking in volume in the past year,according to IRI France. Its figures show thatFrench supermarket and hypermarket channelsreported a dismal set of results experiencingsignificant drops in both value and volume share.The hairspray market dropped by 3.7% to totalt100.3m while the styling aids market dropped bya massive 9.9% to t200.3m. Volume wise, therewere more losses as hairsprays fell by 4% to total18.8m units and styling aids slipped by 11.4% to52.5m units.

Germany Data from IRI Germany also painted adisappointing picture, indicating that the marketslid by 1.4% in 2008 to total t507.92m comparedwith 2007’s t514.8m. Volume results fared littlebetter as unit sales lost 1.2% to total 55.67m units.The only sub-sector to have any kind of a gain wasthat of hairsprays which inched up by 0.9% tomake t282.8m while hair gels, creams and waxesfell by 5.7% to t115.92m.

Italy According to data from industry bodyUnipro, the Italian hair styling sector slid in valueby 2.5% from t224.4m to t218.8m in 2008. Ofthis total, hairsprays were still pulling in the mostsales however, worth t89.91m, while styling gelsfollowed next at t80.63m. Mousses and settinglotions accounted for a much smaller t48.28m

although this category did represent the fastestgrowing hair styling segment in the country. Theleading hair styling company in Italy is stillL’Oréal, which enjoys success in the market withits Studio Line, Garnier Fructis, Garnier Graficand Cadonett brands.

Spain Spanish hair styling figures saw littleimprovement on their European counterparts asthey too experienced a disappointing decline in2008. Based on data from AC Nielsen, Spanishhair styling sales fell by 2.5% to t187.19m whileunit sales fell by an even bigger 5.4% to total68.1m units. When it came to formats, hairspraysaccounted for 35% of the market share followedby gels and waxes at 33% and styling mousses at28%. The least popular hair styling format inSpain was that of styling sprays which accountedfor a minute 4% market share.

UK Consumers in the UK are turning away fromhair styling products in their droves and this isborne out by sales slipping by 2.1% to £257.38min the past year. Volume in units was also hit hard,tumbling by 3.5% last year to 126.69m units,according to data from TNS Worldpanel. Onlytwo sub-sectors in the UK posted any year-on-year sales growth and these were aerosols andwaxes/creams, with the latter increasing in size byan impressive 8.2%.

HAIRSTYLINGMARKET SUMMARY It has not been a good year for the Big 5 countries with regards tohair styling as every country saw losses across the board. It appears that the recession has madeits mark on this market as things are even worse than they were in 2007, when things began togo wrong for the hair styling sector

Europe: Top 5 hair styling brands by country

Total Big 5 France Germany Italy Spain UK

1 Wella L'Oréal Wella Pantene Pantene TRESemmé

2 L'Oréal Elnett Taft L'Oréal Deliplus L'Oréal

3 Taft Vivelle Dop Nivea Nivea L'Oréal Alberto Balsam

4 Pantene Timotei Gard Bilba Fructis John Frieda

5 Nivea Fructis Balea Fructis Giorgi Wella

Source: TNS European Toiletries and Cosmetics Database (ETCD); for contact details see p835. Rankings refer to weighted penetration (% using) among womenaged 11-74 over the 12 months ended June 2008

Simplifyle 7846 ECM September 2009

France: Hair styling market, 2009*

Product tm %+/- units %+/-(m)

Styling aids total 220.3 -9.9 52.5 -11.4

Waters 3.5 -13.2 1.0 -13.7

Gels 111.4 -13.2 28.0 -15.1

Sprays 71.6 -5.5 15.4 -6.2

Mousses 28.1 -6.3 6.5 -6.1

Other textures 5.6 -10.5 1.5 -9.4

Hairsprays total 100.3 -3.7 18.8 -4.0

Normal hold 27.0 -6.8 4.8 -4.6

Soft hold 0.282 +83.3 42.8 113.4

Strong hold 47.2 +0.2 8.5 -0.5

Other hold 25.7 -7.5 5.3 -9.0

Accessory total 109.7 -1.6 30.9 -2.0

*sales through super/hypermarkets 52 w/e 24 May 2009Source: IRI France

MARKET REPORT HAIR STYLING

Following the same fate as the wider hair caremarket, France’s hair styling market isexperiencing a period of limp sales and is in needof a serious volume boost. Figures from theFédération des Enterprises de la Beauté (FEBEA),on which ECM figures are calculated, were notavailable at the time of compiling this report,however statistics from IRI France, which chartthe progression of sales in France’s super andhypermarket channels (part of the wider massmarket) show a dismal year for styling.

Supermarkets and hypermarkets experienced adrop in both sales and units sold across the entirestyling sector, with styling liquids and gelssuffering the worst losses, both in the doubledigits. The only recompense came from thehairspray sector, where the growing popularity forsofter, more natural styles boosted the tiny area ofsoft hold hairsprays to a market value of t0.282m,a jump of 83%. As a result the number of unitssold shot up by 113% to 42m.

Market analyst Mintel estimates that hair stylingrepresented 22.4% of the total hair care market inFrance in 2008, the third largest sector behindshampoos and hair colourants. Furthermore,according to a TNS Worldpanel survey, Frenchconsumers used a styling product 4.1 times in atypical week (12 m/e March 2009). So the demandfor products is out there – the problem seems tohave been turning that demand into actualpurchases, a problem that is also currentlyaffecting the wider hair care sector in France.

TNS adds that the main reasons French womenuse a styling product is to detangle (70%) and addshine (49%), while for French men holding a style(72%) and hair management (52%) came out asthe top two reasons for using a hair stylingproduct.

Keeping it simpleAs with the colour cosmetics market, fashion playsa key role in the fate of the hair styling sector, withpressure on brands to develop products thatrecreate catwalk looks. The trend for the ‘no stylestyle’ which has crept onto catwalks recently hasinspired manufacturers to create lighter,weightless textures that create a more natural,softer look, with no sticky after-feel which is sooften associated with hair styling products.

Within L’Oréal’s professional brand portfolio,natural styling has been a main focus. The ‘less ismore’ approach was adopted by L’Oréal

Professionel with its Texture Expert, a line ofstyling products described as ‘cosmestyling’(cosmetic styling). The range comprises threecollections tailored to different hair types, as wellas a strong hold fixing mist, suitable for all hairtypes.

For fine hair there are four new products – LissArdent, a lightweight straightening cream thatoffers thermal protection against hairdryers andstraighteners; Expansion, a volumising creammousse; Smooth Essence, a lightweight cream thatprotects against humidity; and Tendre Forme, astructuring paste that offers definition to fine hair.

In the medium hair collection there are alsofour new products – Smooth Velours blow drymilk; Volumising Cream Mousse; ShineProtection Serum; and Lumicontrôle, a pearlymoisturising wax. Finally for thick hair, the brandhas created Smooth Ultime, a taming cream thatsoftens and smoothes thick, unruly hair, and theGelée Cashmere anti-frizz gel.

Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair brand (L’Oréal) alsogave a nod to the natural look with the launch ofSilk Mesh, a new moulding cream containing silkfibres that promise to create a lightweight finishand natural looking shine.

Natural styling was also popular in men’s stylingwith L’Oréal’s Studio Line brand launchingMineral FX, a six-sku line containing activeminerals that are said to strengthen hair and createnatural looking styles. The products include GelCrème de Contrôle, which promises light, non-greasy hold; Gel-Crème Modelant, whichprovides 24 hour hold; Pâte Effet Décoffé, asculpting paste that provides natural hold andstyle; Invisi’Gel Ultra Fixante 24h, a strong holdstyling gel; Invisi’Gel Très Fixante 24h, forstronger hold; and Invisi’Liquid Gel.

Alongside the natural look, natural ingredientshave also proved a popular addition to stylingproducts in France. La Biosthetique Paris’ newNatural Cosmetic hair care line includes a numberof styling references that are Ecocert certified,with ingredients derived from almost 100%

FranceLacking involume



natural sources. Products include MousseCoiffante fixing styling mousse, Crème Brillianteshine cream and Laque Fixante finishing spray,which wraps hair in a fine film to protect it fromdrying out as well as providing a soft shine.

Similarly, Frédéric Fekkai (P&G) hasreformulated a number of its products to includeAquaNutrient technology, featuring marineinfusions and botanical extracts to hydrate andrepair dry hair. New styling products containingthe technology include Zero-Humidity FrizzControl, an alcohol-free mist containing sea algaeextract to tame frizz and smooth the hair cuticle,and Beach Waves, containing marine waters andlight polymers which create tousled natural waves,and heat activated ceramides, which protect thehair against sun damage.

Damage controlProtecting against the damaging effects of heatedstyling appliances is another area where newproduct development activity has been high.Products that offer specific thermo protectionhave been popular within the styling sector forsome time but recent launches have seen brandslaunching more comprehensive protection rangeswhich include shampoos and conditioners as wellas styling protection products.

One such brand is Dove (Unilever), whichlaunched its Thermo Défense range earlier thisyear. Alongside its hair care offering, the lineincludes Le Micro Voile Protecteur, a fineprotecting mist that promises to protect hairagainst the daily damage of using heated stylingappliances such as hair straighteners. The formulacontains a combination of conditioning and caringagents which wrap each hair strand in a protectivefilm to help lower the temperature of the hairfibre when exposed to heated appliances.

Kérastase (L’Oréal) meanwhile has focused onprotecting coloured hair with the launch ofChroma Thermique, described as a thermo-radiance protecting milk for colour treated hair.The heat activated milk is said to protect againstheat damage as well as boosting colour radianceand intensity.

And Thierry Lothmann’s new Sweet Brush line,inspired by the glitz and glamour of the classicHollywood age, includes two new products thatprotect against heat damage. Lait de BrushingThermo-Actif contains corn proteins, rich inamino acids which coat the hair fibres and protectthem against heat damage, helping to leave hairsoft and smooth, while Sérum Sublimateurcontains argan oil which helps repair split endsand adds shine to heat damaged hair.

Protection against specific sun damage isanother area where brands have added references.L’Oréal Professionel’s Série Expert Solar Sublimeis a shimmering gel, which is designed to protecthair in the sun, whilst enhancing its natural shineand Kérastase’s Brume Jour Protectrice is a finemist that is claimed to protect colour hair againstphotodegradation.

Tailored solutions have also branched out intoage specific types, rather than hair types. Dessange(L’Oréal) has launched an anti-ageing hair care

and styling range which includes Mousse Coiffage& Soin anti-âge, a mousse containing omega 6 andgreen tea polyphenols which help protect the hairagainst UV damage; and Laque Finition &Brillance anti-âge, an anti-ageing hairspraycontaining light reflecting particles and UV filtersto add shine and prevent colour fade.

Spray segmentationThis year marks the 50th birthday of L’Oréal’sElnett hairspray brand and also highlights howdiverse this sector has become over the years.From colour protection to flexible hold, there is ahairspray variant for every hair type and need.

To mark its anniversary Elnett has launchedLaque Brillance Diamant Fixation Suprême,claimed to provide the brand’s strongest hold yetwith a brilliant shine, while staying soft to thetouch. The ultra fine mist is also said to disappearwhen brushed out to leave hair soft and shiny.

Saint Algue’s (Schwarzkopf & Henkel’s) Syossrange has also launched a number of glossingproducts in its Tenue Gloss range including LaqueBrilliance, an extra strong spray that is claimed toprovide 24 hours of hold with added shine.

Garnier Fructis (L’Oréal) meanwhile has takeninspiration from nature for its latest Flexiholdhairsprays. Enriched with bamboo, the five-skurange is said to provide flexibility and naturalmovement with a strong hold that bounces backinto shape. The line-up includes Finish & Hold-Strong, Finish & Hold-Extra Strong, Finish &Hold-Extreme, Volume & Hold and Colour &Hold variants so there really is something forevery occasion.

Despite its lacklustre performance, the Frenchhair styling market is pulling out the stops to tryand tempt consumers back in and backpurchasing. However the current economicdownturn in the country is likely to do the marketno favours in the short-term and the road torecovery may be further away than manufacturerscare to think.

Lacque Brillance inSchwarzkopf & Henkel’sSyoss range provides 24hours of hold and abrilliant shine

France: Top five female styling brands,% share

Brand Manufacturer %

L’Oréal Paris L’Oréal 23

Elnett L’Oréal 7

Vivelle Dop L’Oréal 6

Timotei Unilever 6

Fructis L’Oréal 4

Source: TNS Worldpanel

France: Top five male styling brands,% share

Brand Manufacturer %

L’Oréal Paris L’Oréal 20

Vivelle Dop L’Oréal 17

Taft S & H 9

Auchan Auchan 5

Fructis L’Oréal 5


GermanyLooseningits grip



The German hair styling market appears tohave lost ground in 2008, seeing a loss in bothvalue and volume terms, according to data fromIRI Germany. The market slid by 1.4% in 2008 tototal t507.92m compared with 2007’s t514.87m.Volume wise there was a further slip of 1.2% asunit sales plummeted from 56.34m to 55.67mlast year.

Unlike its counterpart hair care category (whichincludes shampoos, conditioners and colourants),hair styling seems to be sliding down Germanconsumers’ list of priorities. This could besomething to do with the effects of the recessionand the fact that consumers might have forgonemore expensive styling products in order toconcentrate on the more basic hair care items.

Fixing focusOf the value total, hairsprays accounted for thelargest slice of the pie at t282.85m, up 0.9%.Next came hair gels, creams and waxes att115.92m, down a worrying 5.7%, closing the gapbetween itself and setting products which also lostground but not as much at 2.3% to totalt109.14m. In the volume stakes there were alsolosses all round with all categories taking a tumble.Again, hairsprays accounted for the largest shareof unit sales at 39.005m units, a dip of 0.3%,followed by hair setting products at 9.62m unitsand hair gels, creams and waxes at 7.04m units,losses of 1.2% and 6% respectively.

On the retail channel front there was more badnews with even Germany’s favourite drugstorechannel seeing a loss of 1.2% to make t287.36mworth of sales, though this still made the largestchannel. Hot on its heels were hypermarkets ofmore than 800sq m making t121.97m worth ofsales, down 2.3%. Discounters, hypermarkets ofless than 800sq m and perfumeries rounded off thelist at t79.51m, t19.06m and t5.2m respectively.The only category which made a slight gain wasthat of the discounter, inching up by 0.5% whichmight indicate that German consumers arelooking to buy cheaper styling products during

these belt-tightening times.In IRI Germany’s listings for styling formats,

aerosol hairsprays again took a clear lead, taking51.5% of the market share representing a healthyt261.7m. The next popular format was that ofmousses at t89.95m, down 2.4% followed by gelsat t79.54m, down 8.3%. All other categoriesmade losses in 2008, apart from that of specialitystyling products which put on an impressive 9.3%to make t20.3m, despite accounting for just 4%of the market share.

The least popular hair styling format inGermany is that of gel sprays, down an enormous34.8%, making just t2.66m.

As far as desired styling effects go, most of theproducts sold in Germany were for basic hairstyling needs – this category took a 49.3% marketshare worth t250.53m. Volumising hair stylingproducts came next with a 17.8% market share,posting a gain of 5.6% and making t90.29moverall. Products to make hair shinier came inthird place, taking a 12.4% market share att63.01m. The least desired styling choices wereanti-hair loss and anti-dandruff styling products

Germany: Hair styling market value, tm

Value Volume

2007 514.87 56.34

2008 507.92 55.67

Source: IRI Germany

Germany: Retail channel sales, tm

Value %+/-

Total 507.92 -1.4

Retailers smaller than 19.06 -4.9800sq m

Discounters 79.51 0.5

Retailers bigger than 121.97 -2.3800sq m

Drugstores 287.36 -1.2

Perfumeries 5.20 -7.2

Source: IRI Germany

Germany: Total hair styling market,2008, tm

Value %+/-

Total 507.92 -1.4

Hairsprays 282.85 0.9

Setting products 109.14 -2.3

Gels/creams/waxes 115.92 -5.7

Source: IRI Germany

Germany: hair styling formats,2008, tm

Value %+/-

Total 507.92 -1.4

Non-aerosol hairsprays 21.15 -4.1

Aerosol hairsprays 261.70 1.4

Mousses 89.95 -2.4

Liquid setting products 19.18 -1.9

Gels 79.54 -8.3

Gel sprays 2.60 -34.8

Speciality products 20.30 9.3

Waxes 13.39 -0.9

Source: IRI Germany



which made losses of a huge 56.3% and 50.8%respectively.

And according to IRI Germany, although fewerconsumers than ever were buying styling products,the ones that were required products to provideextra or ultra strength hold. These two categoriestook up 28.5% and 27.4% of the marketrespectively, though only extra strength productsmade a value gain, at 2.6%. One category whichhad also upped its game significantly from lastyear was that of mega strong hold products, whichhad seen a value rise of 23.6%, far outstripping itscompetitors, many of which saw losses.

Keeping busyThe German hair styling market relies on newlaunches from both domestic powerhouses such asBeiersdorf and Schwarzkopf & Henkel and alsothe multinational behemoths L’Oréal and P&G.

However, in the past year, it can be noted thatGerman hair styling has been in the doldrumssomewhat, if the sales figures are anything to goby. This could be as a direct result of the recessionor it could be that German appetites were notwhetted by the new products that came to market.As with 2007, launch pace was slow and what didreach shelves was of the fairly standard variety –without a great deal of innovation on offer.

It was in fact Schwarzkopf & Henkel whichtook up the baton last year, with several newlaunches across its brands.

Starting with Schauma, September last year sawthe launch of the brand’s Glatt & Glossy (smoothand glossy) line. This was described as the firstSchauma range to address the needs of difficult,dry and frizzy hair and promising lastingsmoothness and shine without the need for stylingtools. The main styling product in the range is thesmoothing serum with panthenol, which sitsalongside a shampoo and a conditioner.

In the same month, Schwarzkopf & Henkel’sDrei Wetter Taft styling range launched two newranges in the anti-frizz segment. Drei Wetter TaftGlatt & Glossy comprises a hair foam, hairsprayand a smoothing balm which promises 24 hour

smoothness in the battle to protect hair againstheat styling tools. The products contain micro oilsand the range’s Soft Touch Effect complex toprevent hair from drying out.

This range was joined by Drei Wetter TaftLockenflex – a foam and balm for curly hair.Using these products, says the company, willensure that curls and waves last 60% longer.

In March this year there was yet more activity asDrei Wetter Taft was relaunched in its entirety toinclude improved formulations and newpackaging. This was accompanied with the debutof another styling range, Drei Wetter Taft Ultramit Silk Touch, which claims to combine ultrastrong hold with a silky feel for the hair. The four-sku range houses a hairspray, foam, gel cream andwax. The products contain polymer moleculeswhich coat each hair shaft from the roots givingthat extra level of hold while being silky soft at thesame time. Schwarzkopf & Henkel says the creamgel can be used on wet or dry hair for extraversatility and the wax is easy to apply and can bewashed out easily at the end of the day.

And just last month Drei Wetter Taftrelaunched its much hyped 10 Karat Glanz range(10 carat gloss) with a new formula called BrilliantGlanz Booster, which promises 24 hour holdcombined with a multi-faceted glossy shimmer.The relaunch also featured two new lineextensions in the form of 10 Karat Glanz CrèmeGel (cream gel) and the 10 Karat Glanz FöhnSpray (styling lotion). Both products contain aformula said to create a super smooth surfacewhich reflects the light off the hair like a diamond.

Gliss Kur also recently introduced two newproducts into its styling range – Extremer Halt +Control Haarspray (hairspray) and Extremer Halt+ Control Haarschaum (styling foam). Thehairspray contains microfine fixing agents said totame hair and add volume and the styling foam isalcohol-free and hydrating for hair.

Finally, Schwarzkopf & Henkel also extended itsGot2b line for teenagers in March. There werenew additions to the Schmusekatze (smoochy cat)line with a new hairspray and finishing wax. Therewas also a new hair gel product in the Glanzstückrange which promises hold combined withglossiness.

The company also rolled out two new launchesfor teenage boys. Got2b Superkleber (super glue)is described as the brand’s strongest hair gel todate, which is also sweat and water-resistant. The

The new Schmusekatzestyling line forteenagers comprises ahairpspray and afinishing wax

Raising its gameSabine Kaestner from Lavera, Germany, feels that natural stylingproducts are definitely worth keeping an eye on in the market

“At Lavera we offer three natural styling products for consumers – a gel,a hairspray and a styling mousse. These items are silicone-free andinclude organic aloe vera and bamboo in their formulas. Theseingredients both nourish and strengthen hair without the need forharmful chemical ingredients and this is what an increasing number ofGerman consumers are looking for. When it comes to the productfragrances, German men prefer quite masculine, woody scents whileGerman women prefer fresh and fruity ones. Other than that they bothcare about how good their hair looks and take pride in the appearance.“Many people turn to natural styling products because they have

sensitive scalps and find that the less abrasive nature of products suchas ours suit them well. I don’t think we’ll lose sales during these difficultfinancial times because hair styling is a very important issue to Germanconsumers, particularly women.”


Beiersdorf’s HaaransatzBooster boosts volumeto the roots using itsinnovative nozzleapplicator


second product is the unusually namedDauerbrenner (evergreen) hair gel which is saidto hold tresses in place for 24 hours, leaving noresidue on the hair when washed off.

Dr Daniel Langer, Schwarzkopf & Henkel’svice president of marketing retail, explains whythe Taft brand in particular is such a nationalfavourite.

“The Taft brand offers consumers excellent hairstyling formulas and modern packaging as well asbeing endorsed by German supermodel HeidiKlum. She is a great role model and style icon formany German women and they identify with herlook and try and emulate her. There is little doubtthat the range is more popular and sells betterbecause of her association.”

So are there many differences between thestyling needs of German men and women? “Theirattitudes towards styling are similar and they bothwant their hair to look good and well styled. Butmen prefer products to offer hold and structureand, while women also want this, they want theirhair to be voluminous and shiny too.”

Shine onOver at fellow domestic giant Beiersdorf therewere only two new styling launches throughoutthe whole year in the Nivea hair portfolio. Januarysaw a line extension in the Diamond Gloss haircare range with the addition ofthe Glanz Finish Spray. Theproduct is sprayed onto thehair after styling and smoothesfrizz and static without weighingthe hair down. The other new addition inJuly was the Haaransatz Booster (rootsbooster) styling spray which joinedNivea’s Volume Sensation styling range.Beiersdorf says that the product offersextra strong hold and can be applieddirectly onto the roots, thanks to itsinnovatively shaped applicator.

Beiersdorf-owned hair stylingbrand Marlies Möller also had aquiet 2008. Adding to its popularEssential range, the brandtargeted curly hair bringing thenew Curl Control DefiningSerum to market. The product issold with Marlies Möller’s CurlsComb, to help ease the productthrough curly hair which canbecome unruly. The productcontains the brand’s “curl memoryeffect” – this contains aninnovative styling polymer to keepcurls full of energy and definedthroughout the day, according tothe company. The serum is alsosaid to have an anti-frizz effectwhich protects against the highlevels of humidity that styling haircan entail. The panthenol suppliesadditional moisture and givescurly hair a healthy, suppleappearance while intelligent activesubstances control and regulate the

moisture content of the hair.Dirk Kraegan is the international trend team

stylist for Marlies Möller – and believes thatGerman women are more concerned than everabout how their hair looks.

“German consumers take a great interest notonly in the condition of their hair but also in howit looks and how it is styled. She is very trendconscious but in a classy way.

“We have more product innovation planned forthis month – we are launching two brand newshine products containing real rock crystals. Thesewill make hair more resilient to external factorssuch as heat and wind as well as making itextra shiny.”

Kraegan feels that German consumers aremaking compromises during these tough times bysearching for cheaper alternatives. However hewarns that cheaper is not necessarily better. “Hairstyling products within the higher price segmentare considered to be small, affordable pieces ofluxury and they maintain a feeling of selfindulgence and glamour which I feel is particularlyimportant during hard times like these,” he says.“By seeking cheaper alternatives people are clearlycompromising when it comes to quality andefficacy. But we are hopeful that the high qualityof Marlies Möller products will break through andconsumers will continue to buy them. Quality will

always win through in the end.”

Curl concentrationThe needs of curly hair have also been thefocus for another brand popular withGerman consumers. Gühl (Kao brands)

launched its Locken Kraft range in Mayand this comprises both a hair care andhair styling range. The two stylingproducts are the Activating Curl Sprayand the Styling Foam.

These products are formulated withGühl’s Locken ActiveierungsKomplex (curl activatingcomplex) as well as the mainactive gingko for increasedelasticity and moisturising jojoba.The spray can be used on dry ordamp hair and helps boost thecurl and bounciness factor of hairwhile the mousse shields hairfrom frizz-inducing humiditywithout causing stickiness.

Bettina Schupp from Gühl’sR&D department says the rangeis perfect for the estimated 48%of German women who havecurly hair: “With curly hair everyindividual hair is curved andtwisted and therefore the hair’scuticle layer does not lie flat andsmooth against the hair shaft as isthe case with straight hair.

“Instead it sticks out at anglesand can be damaged easily bybrushing and styling. This meansthat curly hair is also frequently

drier than straight hair and needs



additional hydration.“Besides hydration and protecting against

humidity, products for curly hair must also boostthe natural curl by increasing elasticity withoutmaking the hair sticky and weighingit down.”

Flexing its muscleMeanwhile over at P&G, the Wellaflexstyling portfolio boasted a couple ofnew additions. January saw the launchof its Hydro Style range, featuring ahairspray and mousse to provide extrastrong hold and a blow dry spray whichcan be applied to wet or dry hair torefresh any hair style. The productsinclude the brand’s HydroactiveComplex to address the moisturebalance of hair and to prolonghydration when styling. The secondlaunch from Wellaflex was the debut ofthe Fülle and Style (fullness) range inJuly. This is a three-sku styling lineincluding a foam, hairspray and refillingfluid. The products contain panthenol,said to envelop each strand of hair andfill up the thinner parts of the hair shaftthus adding volume and strength. P&Gclaims that when using these productshair will look noticeably fuller andthicker and each hair strand will appearenhanced without actually becomingsticky and weighed down.

L’Oréal also had a few new launchesacross its brand portfolio. Its GarnierFructis line launched one new productright at the beginning of the year –Fructis Style Bamboo FlexiholdHairspray, enriched with bamboo

extracts, renowned for their resilient yet flexibleproperties. This ultra-fine micro diffusion spraycreates a fine mist which is said to dry instantlyand give a lustrous finish.

Meanwhile, Fructis’ stablemate, L’Oréal Paris,rolled out its new Elnett Satin VeryVolume hairspray range, enriched withpro-keratin, in March this year.

The product is said to create volumeand shape with natural movement inSupreme Hold and Extra Strengthvariants. And more recently Germanconsumers have been treated to a newcollection of L’Oréal ElviveConditioning Sprays – four leave-inconditioning sprays which can be useddaily to offer a nourishing boost.

The four different types are forRadiance and Colour Protection,Resilience and Repair, Mirror ShineCashmere Touch and Anti-Flyawayand Anti-Frizz.

Launch pace from many of the bigmultinationals was fairly stilted in 2008,and German hair styling enthusiastswere hardly inundated with rafts ofinnovative new product launches. In factit was domestic hair styling stalwartSchwarzkopf & Henkel which broughtthe largest number of products tomarket. The multinationals played itsafe with a few new additions, oftenadding to existing lines. This lack ofactivity may be in part to blame fordwindling sales figures and if these haveany chance of recuperating,manufacturers are going to have to uptheir game for the rest of this year andinto 2010.

Garnier’s new FructisBamboo FlexiholdHairspray containsbamboo to make thehair shaft resilient yetflexible

Styling the nationTina Köhler is brand manager for WellaflexGermany. It is her job to make sure that Wellaflexhair styling products address the varied stylingneeds of German consumers

How seriously do German consumers take theirhair styling needs?A person’s hair is one of the most prominentfeatures on any individual and makes a very bigimpression on others, particularly if it is the firstimpression. This is why German women inparticular take pride in having well groomed hairand immaculate hairstyles.

Howmuch time do they set aside for hair stylingpurposes?Quite a bit I would say – hair styling is an importantpart of a German consumer’s beauty routine. It isimportant that their styling products help createthe looks they desire and guarantee long lastinghold throughout the day. The longevity factor iscrucial as consumers do not want to be restylingtheir hair several times throughout the day.

What does the Wellaflex brand offerconsumers that other brands do not?Wellaflex is the number one salon brand inGermany and has been around for 125 years sowe have a tremendous heritage. The keyWellaflex product benefit is that our productsoffer excellent hold for up to 24 hours. We havea huge range of products to cater to any stylingneed a consumer may have and that is why weperform so well in this market.

Which are the best selling Wellaflex products?Products to increase hair’s volume continue tobe best sellers we find and our 2 Day Volumeproducts fly off the shelves to cater for thisneed. Our new Fülle and Style range has alsobeen selling very well since it launched andthe trend to make hair appear thicker andmore lustrous is very key right now inGermany. And an eternally successful productfor Wellaflex is our Form & Finish hairspraywhich gives a very natural yet bouncy holdfor up to 24 hours.

Italy: Hair styling market value,2006-2008

Hair styling products 2006 2007 2008

tm 232.79 224.42 218.82

%+/- - 8.6 - 3.6 - 2.5

Source: Unipro



According to Unipro figures, in 2008 the Italianhair styling market totalled t218.82m, a 2.5% losson 2007 when the market was worth t224.42m.

However, this does not come as much of asurprise to manufacturers considering previousyears’ disastrous performances in this sector. In2007, losses stood at 3.6% and in 2006 they stoodat an even more worrying 8.6%.

In the past few years, Italian consumers have cutdown on what they consider to be ‘touch up’products and last year the recession brought aboutthe trend for a more natural look for hair. At themoment this look is very fashionable in Italy anddoesn’t require the major use of hair stylingproducts so it was perhaps inevitable that saleswithin this sector would fall.

Favourite formatsLooking at product types in hair styling, hairsprayswere still the best performing category in 2008since they are considered the most effective way toget the desired results. This category was wortht89.91m while gels and setting gels followed nextat t80.63m. The consumer group that uses theseparticular styling products is very broad since itcomprises different age groups and also maleconsumers. Meanwhile fixing mousses and settinglotions accounted for a smaller t48.28m butrepresented the fastest growing segment in Italy.

Dr Maria Bisogni, general manager for NiveaItalia’s hair styling team, says: “The major losseswe have seen in hair styling happened in the gelsegment which fell by 5.9% in 2007 and this hasn’tbeen entirely compensated by the 2.3% growththat the mousse segment has shown. Femaleconsumers have however purchased many productsthat help to straighten the hair and which improvethe appearance of straight hair.

The very dynamic and innovative selection ofproducts which promise to make hair shiny havealso performed very well.

“With regard to our male consumers we haveseen growth especially in products that haveextreme fixing and styling benefits and that canhold the desired hairstyle over a long period oftime. In 2008, product performance has definitelybeen the key driver in the segment.”

Taking a closer look at manufacturers in Italy,hair styling continues to be, as with hair care, amarket dominated almost exclusively by L’Oréal.The company is present on the Italian market withseveral brands including Studio Line, Garnier

Fructis, Garnier Grafic and Cadonett. Only oneother multinational, Procter & Gamble managesto challenge this supremacy with its Pantene Pro Vline which is ranked in fourth position.

Channel wise, mass distribution was the winner,ringing t116.18m worth of business through itstills, leaving only slim pickings for the otherchannels.

What consumers wantCertainly the hair styling market in Italy is wellestablished and consumers are well informed andtherefore careful about their purchases. In 2008Italian consumers definitely demanded moreeffective hair styling results. Products not only hadto excel in performance but also have addedqualities to give hair an extra touch of beauty withconsumers demanding products that highlight thecondition of their hair or make it look shiny andhealthy. Thus the gap between hair care and hairstyling products has become somewhat blurred. Atthe same time consumers want products that arenot too aggressive for the hair, creating a naturaleffect without filling it full of chemicals.Functionality, innovation and a good pricepoint are at the top of consumers’ wish listswhen it comes to hair styling andmanufacturers had to keep this in mindand try and meet expectations.

When it comes to new products, GarnierFructis Style (L’Oréal) launched items thatpromise long lasting performance and to takecare of the hair while tending to its stylingneeds. Its new product, Garnier Fructis HydraLiss, is a fixing spray with an anti-fizz actionsaid to be effective against damp weather andto nourish hair at the same time.

Meanwhile for men the Studio LineIndestructible range (L’Oréal) features theIndestructible Wet Gel Effetto Bagnato, theIndestructible Gel Concentrato and the Out ofBed Crema Fibrosa, which is a thick cream tocreate a scruffy look. The Agenti FissantiFlessibili (flexible fixing agents) it contains aresaid to leave hair soft without hardening it.

Pantene Pro V (P&G) has launched theVolume in Movimento line said to encouragevolume. It features the Lacca Volumizzante, aspray for hair sporting a natural look, and the

ItalyApredictabledecline

Italy: Hair styling, breakdown of retail channels, tm

Pharmacies Perfumeries Other Of which Total % +/-channels mass

distribution

Hair 1.28 21.81 195.73 116.18 218.82 - 2.5styling

Source: Unipro



Spuma Volumizzante, a mousse for extra stronghold that claims to protect the hair from dailybrushing and hairdryer damage.

Pantene Pro V meanwhile is present in Italywith five hair styling lines and also caters for curlyhair with Ricci Perfetti Gel Spray Modellante, agel that comes in a spray format and is said to beideal for modelling and defining curls.

Last year, Nivea (Beiersdorf) launched theDiamond Gloss Styling range designed to givelong hair a diamond-like reflection. The rangefeatures Spray Diamond Gloss and Styling MousseDiamond Gloss which both contain vitamin B3and a silicon technology said to guarantee elasticityand softness for the hair.

The Nivea Fluido Modella, also launched in2008, is a product created specifically for curly andcoarse hair and is said to define curls while takingcare of the scalp at the same time.

In Beiersdorf’s Nivea For Men line, thecompany launched the Aqua Gel Wet Look, theSpeed Power Gel and the Real Style Pasta NaturalLook. The last of the line-up is a gel for extra holdsaid to give a natural look which, according toBisogni, has proved successful so far.

She comments: “Our strong and extra strongstyling products experienced positive growth in2008, growing by 8% on 2007 as Italian consumerswere much more focused on immediate resultsthan previously, which benefited us.”

Other manufacturers that don’t offer such acomprehensive hair styling line still made theirpresence known by launching new products, oftenin the form of hair gels, onto the market.

Neutro Roberts (Manetti & Roberts) forexample brought out Neutro Roberts Styling GelForte (strong), Neutro Roberts Styling Gel ExtraForte (extra strong) and Neutro Roberts Wet Gelfor a wet look effect. Similarly, three Revlon gelsmade their debut on the Italian market last year –Revlon Gel Ultra Fix, Revlon Gel Liquid Fix andRevlon Gel Styling Fix. These products come in200ml formats and are said to feature largelynatural formulations enriched with vitamins.Dermatologically tested, the Revlon gels are saidto be ideal for protecting and nourishing the scalpas well as for creating trendy hairstyles.

Closer to homeAmong local manufacturers there was also someactivity. In the 1960s, the Mirato Group launchedits now legendary Hairspray Splend’Or onto themarket to much interest as it was one of thecountry’s breakthrough styling products. At thetime the company’s chairman, Corrado Ravanelli,realised the potential of this product and hisintuition proved to be correct as it went on to sellmillions. Talking about the current market DrPiergiuseppe Fanello, marketing director of theMirato Group, says: “In these difficult economictimes we have been very careful to produce highquality products at the right price. We have triedto be innovative especially in those segments wherewe are the market leaders such as with our brandsSplend’Or, Malizia, Intesa and GomGel.

“Last year Italian hair styling was stronglyinfluenced by the natural trend so things have

moved away from the concept of a sticky and heavysprayed hairstyle to a less rigid and less definedlook. There has also been much more focus onproducts that highlight shiny hair and these are allareas we have tried to focus on ourselves.”

The Lacca Forte Malizia Ecologica Ecofix andthe Lacca Forte Splend’Or are two hairsprays thatMirato launched last year and both are said to haveenvironmentally friendly packaging. Mirato alsohad an eye on size as it has launched the hairspraysin 75ml formats, ideal for the frequent traveller.

Fashion fixtureHair styling and fashion have lots of influence oneach other and this is particularly true in Italy.

Italian fashion trends have given way to morenatural, less structured clothes and hair stylingtrends have followed suit with softer, lighterhairstyles being preferred to more rigid andsculpted forms.

In Italy, Wella (P&G) works in partnership withsalons and hairdressers and often styles models forprestigious catwalk fashion shows.

In 2008, Wella’s professional stylists took care ofthe models’ styling needs for the Nude Show, ahigh profile event at Milan Fashion Week. Theproducts used were taken directly from Wella’srecently launched High Hair line which consumerscan also purchase. These products feature fourdifferent treatment areas – Volume, Onde & Ricci(waves & curls), Liscio & Lucentezza (glossy &sheen) and Styling Creativo. The High Hair lineclaims to provide “styling products for all hairneeds”. Among the High Hair products, theunusually named Flubber is an extra-strong gelsaid to provide extreme hold while reinforcing andprotecting hair thanks to pro vitamin B5 and UVfilters. The High Hair products address differenthair styling needs, offering solutions for consumerswho want a natural, light, strong or extra stronglook and hold, according to the company.

Meanwhile Italian styling brand Alfaparf, basedin Milan, was founded with the idea of taking hairstyling to a level comparable with high couturefashion. The company currently works with 80stylists worldwide to create innovative hair careand hair styling products. The new line from

Among domesticmanufacturers, theMirato Group hasinvested in research anddevelopment to keep upwith internationalcompetitors

Italy: Hair styling formats, tm

Product Value

Hairsprays 89.91

Fixing mousses & setting lotions 48.28

Gels & setting gels 80.63

Source: Unipro

Italy: Top five hair styling brands, 2008

Brand Manufacturer

Studio Line L’Oréal

Garnier Fructis L’Oréal

Garnier Grafic L’Oréal

Pantene Pro V Procter & Gamble

Cadonett L’Oréal

Source: Euromonitor International

Spanish hair styling products have been in aslump for several consecutive years ever sincevolume sales began to decline in 2006. Based onthe moving annual total in January/February 2008-2009, volume sales for hair styling productsamounted to 68.1m units worth t187.19m,respective declines of 5.4% and 2.5%, according to

Fragancias y Cosmética based on figures from ACNielsen. Market research firm IRI Spain has alsoreported declining sales for hair styling products.In 2008, unit sales dropped by 5.4% from 60.25munits to 57.02m units from the previous year whilevalue sales fell by 2.5% from t170.97m tot166.72m.

Not gellingHair gels, once the main driver behind the Spanishhair styling market, have fallen from grace amongSpanish consumers especially among the young andfashion conscious. Hair fashions are continuallyevolving and yesterday’s super-stiff styles have given

SpainA stylingslump



Alfaparf is the Semi di Lino Diamante line whichfeatures linseed as its main ingredient, capitalisingon the growing desire for natural hair stylingproducts. The Illuminating Sculpting Spray is saidto fix and define the hairstyle and dry quicklywithout leaving the hair sticky. The line S4U fromAlfaparf also offers a raft of products for youngerconsumers – F’nK is a wax said to give an opaqueeffect and Posh’N is a pre-styling treatment tocondition hair.

Another Milan-based hair styling company isLisap, founded in 1952. This company also worksalongside hair stylists to promote the concept ofmixing style and innovation. Lisap today caters foran international consumer base offering a varietyof hair styling products for sculpting and finishing.The Sculpture line features Shiny, a glossy liquidsaid to be ideal for the final touch, and is a bestseller for the company.

American stylist Geri Cusenza, who founded haircare company Sebastian with her husband, alsoenjoys growing popularity in Italy. There are nowthree hair styling lines on the Italian market, muchto customers’ delight, called Flow, Form and Flaunt.

Flow features products that are positioned to sitbetween hair care and hair styling and productsinclude Whipped Cream, a nourishing stylingcream said to be very delicate for the hair and scalp.The company says the product should be appliedto wet hair and claims it creates perfect waves.Sebastain’s Potion 9 meanwhile is a leave-intreatment which claims to offer hair stylingbenefits. The product can be used on damp hair fordefinition and applied to dry hair for texture andcontrol. The Form line features the Texturizer, aliquid gel to define curls, and Craft Clay, similar toa wax and used to define and separate short tomedium length hair. Lastly the Flaunt line featuresHalo Mist, a light spray to create shine whichincorporates UV filters.

In 2009, hair styling launches and innovationhave continued in much the same vein as 2008which makes it difficult to predict any sort of a

recovery. Manufacturers in Italy are trying toremain positive and upbeat, despite continuallysliding sales, but good launches and eye catchingproducts will only reap rewards if consumerinterest is ensured.

The styling habits of a nationIn July, AC Nielsen interviewed a panel of 17,000 Italians over 14 yearsof age in order to ascertain their hair care and hair styling habits.The results of the research, provides an interesting indication ofconsumer preference

The panel was made up as follows: 51% of those interviewed hadstraight hair, 38% had wavy hair and the remaining 11% had curly hair.According to the study, 99% of the women admitted that they dedicate afair amount of time to their hair care and hair styling needs. The samewas true for 79% of the men interviewed.Among the individuals who said that they do give time to their hair,

women in the 25-34 age range stood out as the group most inclined toexperiment with new hair styling products, followed by men in the sameage range. Younger generations came next while Italians in the 45-65age range showed little interest here.Women in the 25-34 age range said that they prefer to buy expensive

hair styling products because of their perceived higher quality.According to the research, the most popular product was hairspray,most often purchased by women. Gels followed next and in this casewere mostly used by men.Some respondents said that they used hairsprays and mousses “less

than once every two weeks” while the old classic of hair wax was theproduct used the least, according to the results.With regard to the occasions when hair styling products were used,

these were mostly for special occasions and at work or school, in thatorder. During holidays Italians seem inclined to let their hair down anddon’t use hair styling products at all. Products were most often boughtin super and hypermarkets while smaller retailers and pharmaciesappeared less popular places to buy such items.True to form, Italian men were most likely to have somebody else in

the household buy styling products for them rather than actually goingout and buying them for themselves. The most likely person to do thiswas a wife or girlfriend.

Spain: Hair styling market, 2008

Jan/Feb Jan/Feb %+/-2008 2009

Volume (units m) 71.9 68.1 -5.4

Value (tm) 192.07 187.19 -2.5

Source: AC Nielsen



way to more flexible, no-frizz hairstyle with lots ofvolume. Fewer young male consumers are sportingthe wet look and are using less gel on short haircuts preferring it to be natural instead.Interestingly, among all types of hair stylingproducts, hairspray is the only category to reportstable sales of late and women are overwhelminglythe largest consumers of this category. Hairspraysnow equal gels in volume sales and outperform gelswith a 35% share of total value compared to a 33%share for hair gel. And penetration for hair stylingproducts has fallen in Spanish households – volumesales for all categories, with the exception oflacquers, have fallen by more than 5% with gelsdeclining by 8% and hair mousses by nearly 9%. Atthe same time, value sales have been hit particularlyhard by a significant rise in competitively pricedlarge distributors’ own label brands.

One anomaly to this trend has been theperformance of non-aerosol sprays whichexperienced a remarkable 30% increase in valueterms while overall volume fell by 5.4%. Thereason behind the surge in value can be attributedto a small but growing trend in the use of selectivehair salon products such as John Frieda’s (Kao)Luxurious Volume line, a non-lacquer spray.Llongueras (Colomer), promoted by the highfashion hair salon chain of the same name, wasawarded the Product of the Year 2009 accolade bya TNS survey among Spanish consumers for itstwo new lines Look Corto and Look Largo. In afull range of styling products, Look Corto givesshort hair a natural, stylishly tousled effect whileLook Largo offers products for natural curls aswell as a sleek, detangling agent for long, straighthair. This year is the tenth anniversary of theProduct of the Year Awards in Spain.

Hair styling heritageWith more than 50 years on the market, the mostpopular hairspray in Spain is the domestic Nellybrand made by Valencia-based LaboratoriosBelloch. Nelly commands 29.1% in total volume

terms and 17.4% in total value terms. However,Elnett by L’Oréal is the number one brand inoverall value terms with 28.3% of the total valueshare but only 12.9% in volume. The PanteneStyle by P&G and Sunsilk by Unilever brands rankthird and fourth respectively.

The Spanish Laboratorios Genesse, a division ofthe Barcelona-based AC Marca Group, whichproduces the popular Giorgi Line, dominates thegel segment with a market share of 35% in volumeand 36.3% in value terms. Meanwhile Fructis Styleby Garnier comes in second with 8.9% of totalvolume and 11.8% of total value share.

In styling mousses, Procter & Gamble’s PanteneStyle leads with a 25.5% share in value and 19.9%in the volume stakes. Garnier comes second withFructis Style holding 16.4% of total value and14.1% total volume.

New to marketAmong new product launches in Spain are the newadditions to the Agua Nelly line which uses

Laboratorios Belloch’sNelly brand remains afirm favourite amongSpanish consumerswhen it comes to hairstyling

Spain: Hair styling market value, tm

2009 %share %+/-

Hairsprays 65.5 35 -2.5

Gels/waxes 61.7 33 -2.5

Styling mousses 52.4 28 -6.0

Styling sprays 7.5 4 30.0

Total 187.1 100.0 -2.5

Source: AC Nielsen

Spain: Hair styling market volume,units m

2009 %share %+/-

Hairsprays 23.8 38.2 0.3

Gels/waxes 23.8 32.1 -8.0

Styling mousses 18.4 26.9 -8.8

Styling sprays 2.0 2.8 -5.4

Total 68.0 100.0 -5.4

Source: AC Nielsen

Spain: Brand ranking for hair gels,2008

Brand Manufacturer % %value volume

Giorgi Laboratorios 36.3 35.0Genesse

Fructis Style L’Oréal 11.8 8.9

Studio Line L’Oréal 7.9 4.5

Polyswing Schwarzkopf & 7.5 6.6Henkel

Grafic L´Oréal 4.3 3.2

Babaria Berioska 2.8 3.4

Pantene Style Procter & Gamble 2.4 1.5

Dicora Prolimsa 2.0 2.6

Shockwaves Procter & Gamble 2.0 1.4

Llongueras Colomer 1.8 1.5

Own label 14.0 24.3

Source: Fragancias y Cosmética

Spain: Brand ranking for stylingmousses, 2008




Giorgi Laboratorios 9.1 10.7Genesse

Polyswing Schwarzkopf & 6.5 6.6Henkel

Llongueras Colomer 5.3 5.5

Grafic L’Oréal 4.6 3.5

TRESemmé Alberto Culver 4.1 1.7

Studio Line L’Oréal 2.8 1.9

Elvive Styliste L’Oréal 2.1 3.0

Shockwaves Procter & Gamble 0.7 0.6

Own Label 13.6 21.3


Unfortunately for hair styling manufacturersacross the UK, consumers are being urged throughthe media and hair magazines to go for the naturallook when it comes to their hair and this is to thedetriment of the styling market. UK consumers aretaking the natural look and making it a staple hairstyle trend, leaving styling products in their wakeas a result.

This has been reflected in sales results for thehair styling sector in the UK, with total year-on-year sales down 2.1% from £257.382m, in the 52weeks ending 15 June 2008, to £251.895m in thecomparable period for 2009. Volume in units alsodropped by 3.5% falling from 131.349m units in2008 to 126.690m units in 2009. Although much ofit can be blamed on the desire for natural hair, therecession will no doubt have had an additionalimpact when it came to the downturn in sales.

According to the category insights team fromhair styling manufacturer Alberto Culver, thedesire for natural definitely had a hand in the salesfall, especially in the female market: “We have seenusage of styling products amongst women declinedue to a growing trend for natural hair amongstthe female population. More education is requiredin this category so that women understand how touse styling products differently to achieve thatnatural look more efficiently.”

It seems the hard times have hit almost all of theUK’s hair styling categories. However, accordingto TNS Worldpanel, the frequency of use for hairstyling products (4.1 times per week) actuallytrumps that of shampoos and conditioners, whichstand at 3.4 and 2.8 times per week respectively.

Only two sub-sectors actually posted any year-on-year sales growth and that was aerosols andstyling waxes/creams. Indeed it was the stylingwaxes/cream sector that enjoyed the most salessuccess, with an increase of 8.2%. However,despite this increase in sales and an increase in itsoverall market share (moving up from 12.7% to14%) it was still hairsprays that took the lion’sshare of the sector at 36.2%, also posting a 1.2%

UKSet fora fall



vitamin B5, a sunscreen and natural sea silkextracts to moisturise, repair and facilitate combingfor easy styling in three products – Extra Volume,Extra Strength and Ultra Curls. At the same time,Nelly has reformatted its products to offer a newlook and extended the line to include new formatsin extra large and travel sizes. A non-frizz formulahas been added to the classic Nelly normal andextra strength hairspray offerings. Another classichairspray with over 50 years’ heritage on theSpanish market is Elnett which is available in twonew versions – Elnett Volume for naturally addedvolume and Elnett Diamante for long lasting holdand shine. Fructis Style meanwhile has introduceda 24 hour anti-frizz hairspray based onbamboo extracts.

For maximum holding power, Marlies Möller(Beiersdorf) has just launched Essential CreativeFibre Gum which offers an extra strength holdwith a natural finish. Essential Funky Matt Pasteoffers strong holding power with an ultra mattelook for tousled styling without limits, according tothe company. Polyswing by Schwarzkopf &Henkel meanwhile has extended its Power Gel lineto include a level eight maximum holding power.Gel MaXX Power lasts for up to 24 hours leavingno residue on the hair. Laboratorios Genesse hasfour new hairspray skus – for wavy hair, fordamaged hair, for dry hair and for heat protectionas well as maximum strength gel Giorgi ControlTotal Hold X-Trema which is said to be sweat andwater-resistant.

As long as Spanish consumers continue to feelthe pinch of the recession, spending on nonessential hair styling products will be severelylimited. Value-added products where consumersget more bang for their buck, not only for stylingpurposes but also for their nutritive, protective andspecific benefits, are likely to drive sales at the topend of the market going forwards. Meanwhile,competitive own label brands by large distributorsare likely to continue to gain market share fromthe middle to lower end brands that cannotcompete on the price or the quality that own labelbrands now offer.

Spain: Hairspray brand ranking, 2008


Elnett L’Oréal 28.3 12.9

Nelly Belloch 17.4 29.1


Sunsilk Unilever 11.0 11.1

Fixpray Colomer 3.2 3.8

Cadonett L’Oréal 1.8 1.5


Dicora Prolimsa 1.2 1.9

Giorgi Line Laboratorios 0.4 0.4Genesse

Babaria Berioska 0.3 0.5

Fixonia Colomer 0.2 0.2

Own label 5.7 11.6


UK: Total hair styling sales

52 w/e 52 w/e %+/-15 Jun 08 14 Jun 09

Value (£m) 257.382 251.895 -2.1

Volume (units) 131.349 126.690 -3.5




sales increase. Following hairsprays in the marketshare breakdown were setting sprays at 17%,which were 0.2% down on the previous year andsaw a sales hit of 3.5%. Next was theaforementioned styling waxes/creams, followed bystyling mousses at a 12.9% share and then stylinggels – which saw a market share fall from 13.5% to12.2% and a sales decrease of 11.8%. The categoryhit the hardest was men’s hairdressing, which lostmarket share going from 7% to 5.8% and alsoexperienced a large sales decrease of 19.1%.

Private label meanwhile fell short in marketshare last year, seeing a 91.8%/8.2% split in favourof branded products, with both posting year-on-year sales decreases.

Spray on styleKicking off his first foray into the UK hairspraymarket, Kevin Murphy launched his new SessionSpray at the beginning of the year. The hairspraywas developed around the concept of big hair isbeautiful and is said to give hair added volume.

Also in the spray sector was the TRESemmé(Alberto Culver) Smooth Memory StraighteningSpray that is designed for use with hairdryers tohelp create the ultimate straight look, said to lastfor up to five washes. The spray contains memorylock technology which is said to create a netaround the hair shaft to lock the hair into a straightstyle. The product is recommended for use ondamp hair in order to achieve the best results.

One key launch in the UK styling sector lastyear was the VO5 Weather Resistant range(Alberto Culver) with Climate ControlTechnology. The range comprises hairsprays, gelsprays and styling mousses, with all productsoffering protection from moisture with 24 hourhumidity protection..

Styled to perfectionAs the main reason for the use of styling productsamong men is to hold a style effectively, accordingto TNS Worldpanel, it seems that there is anobvious need for these types of products in theUK. And there were a variety of launches over thepast year designed to cater for this.

Beiersdorf’s Marlies Moller brand went for twodifferent looks with its Essential Creative FibreGum and Essential Funky Matt Paste products.Both products are said to be able to style any lengthof hair and provide a strong, yet flexible, hold.Another hair styling brand, Philip Kinglsey alsolaunched a holding gel, Texture and Hold. Thisproduct was designed for shorter hairstyles andfeatures olive oil and castor oil, which are claimedto add shine and moisturising properties to the hair.

Also new in the waxes category are theadditional products added to Alberto Balsam’s NewLook range (Alberto Culver). The new additionsinclude the Styling Wax and Matt Effect StylingPaste, with the Styling Wax said to provide holdfor consumers who want firm hold for uniquestyles. The wax is added to damp hair and createsmore styled and groomed hair. The Matt EffectStyling Paste is said to create the messy look that ispopular with many UK male consumers. The pasteis used on damp or dry hair and does not leave any

sticky or greasy residue.VO5 has had a good run over the past year with

a few new male launches. The new Extreme StyleEndurance Gel is said to hold any hairstyle and issaid to allow hair to bounce back into shape evenafter being flattened with hoods, hats or helmets.The gel is also said to be humidity-resistant. Theproduct can be used on damp hair or dry hair formore extreme looks.

A new gum line in the VO5 Extreme Style stableis the FunkyShaper gum, which has beenaccompanied by a heavy media advertisingcampaign. The gum is designed for use on bothshort and long hair and is said to give longer hair asemi-matt finish while focusing on layers in thehair. Meanwhile for short hair it is said to shapeand mould the hair into a desirable style. The gumcan be used on dry or damp hair.

Another addition to the VO5 Extreme Stylerange is the new Mane Tamer. Designed to addstructure to longer hairstyles, the formulation issaid to have the hold of a gel but with a cream feelin order to keep the hair smooth. The product issaid to give longer hair effortlessly natural lookswithout making the hair feel sticky or stiff. Theproduct also protects the hair from the effects ofheat styling and humidity. The final two productsin this range are the VO5 Extreme Style Spikedproduct and the SurfStyle product. The Spikedproduct is a water-resistant fixing glue that is saidkeep hair styled and spiked at all times. Whereasthe SurfStyle product is more of a texturising sprayand contains sea salt to give a messy, toussled lookwith added UV filters.

John Frieda (Kao) has gone into the styling

UK: Breakdown of hair care sector,2008-2009, % share

% % % +/-

Hairsprays 35.0 36.2 1.2

Men’s hairdressing 7.0 5.8 -19.1

Gels 13.5 12.2 -11.8

Setting sprays 17.2 17.0 -3.5

Mousses 13.5 12.9 -6.6

Styling waxes/creams 12.7 14.0 8.2


UK: Top ten hair styling ranges, 2009

Brand Manufacturer

Silvikrin L’Oréal

Elnett L’Oréal

TRESemmé Alberto Culver

Wella Shockwaves L’Oréal

L’Oréal Studio L’Oréal

Alberto VO5 Advance Alberto Culver

Pantene P&G

John Frieda Frizz-Ease Kao

Brylcreem Sara Lee

Alberto V05 Extreme Style Alberto Culver


UK: Top tenretailers 2009

Tesco

Boots

Superdrug

Sainsbury's

Asda

Morrisons

Wilkinson

Lidl

The Co-Operative

Waitrose


have waned. According to The NPD Group, salesof hair styling products in US department storesslipped by 9% last year to just $10.4m. Bycontrast, hair styling product sales rose by 1.4% to$1.05bn in US supermarkets, drugstores and massmerchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the yearended 22 February 2009, according toInformation Resources Inc Chicago. Sales ofhairsprays and spritzes increased by 1.37% to$411.8m, while sales of gels and mousses droppedby 2.76% to $629m, according to IRI.

Men make their moveWith brands like American Crew (Colomer)cracking the top ten lists over here, it’s clear thatmale interest in hair styling products is on the rise.

“Men want their hair to look natural and theyare not into the excessively product-laden or shinylook, but favour products that bring out thenatural texture and shine in their hair,” explainsPaul Wilson, artistic director for American Crew.

According to Wilson, American Crew’s MoldingClay enables men to achieve that natural look



market all guns blazing this year with the launch ofthree new styling products. Targeted specifically atfrizzy hair, the three new products are Frizz EaseHeat Defeat Protective Styling Spray, Frizz EaseStraight Fixation Smoothing Crème and FrizzEase Spiral Style Curl-defining Spray Gel. TheStraight Fixation Smoothing Crème is said tocreate a straight style that is similar to the effectachieved at the salon, while smoothing away anyfrizz. Formulated with a polymer system, thecrème bends with the hair in order to create alonger lasting finish. The Spiral Style Curl-defining Spray Gel is said to give the weightless,non-sticky feel of a spritz while providing the levelof hold more often associated with a gel.

A professional touchAlso going on in the UK styling market was therelaunch of the Sebastian brand, which is wellknown in the US and starting to make a name foritself more and more in the UK.

The brand was relaunched in April this year,offering key styling products that are said to offer aprofessional hold but at a reasonable price point.Products include Whipped Crème, which is thehero product of the range, said to give the hold ofa mousse whilst having the caring aspects of acream. This product is used to lift curls and definewaves. Also in the Sebastian Professional stable isthe Trilliant product, which is designed to giveshine, body and heat protection to hair.

Proving stickyLooking at the recent UK sales figures it is clearthat hair styling has had a hard time of late,especially in comparison to fellow hair careproducts, which saw a turn of good fortune in thepast year.

However, when looking at the sales drop thesector experienced last year in relation to 2007(-8.1%), it seems the category is actually makingimprovements – not an easy task in the current

economic climate.In fact, if manufacturers are savvy they could

perhaps play the credit crisis to their advantage.With fewer consumers paying to get their hairstyled at a salon they could start to look to the nextbest thing for them to take advantage of – highstreet brands. And if there are good enoughalternatives consumers may think twice aboutfuture salon visits.

Weighing things upAlberto Culver’s category insights team shares its observations on theUK hair stying sector

Who drives the sales of hair styling products, male or femaleconsumers?We have found that both sexes continue to drive sales of our brands.TRESemmé is a 100% female styling range and sales are up 1.7%, withthe brand seeing very strong growth from hairsprays in particular. VO5meanwhile is a unisex styling range and the male products in the rangeare growing by 7% each year, whilst the female products are growing ata slightly slower rate of 1%.

Do hair trends affect the hair styling market?Definitely. We have seen the usage of hair stylingproducts among women decline recently due to thegrowing trend for natural hair – and this trend is set tocontinue for some time to come.

How do you think the styling industry in this countrywill fare over the coming year and what are the bigtrends set to emerge?The UK hair styling market has been in decline forsome time. However, the decline should begin to turnaround soon as we see the launch of styling productsthat target more natural styles and offer heatprotection benefits. Some of this year's key trends forvolumised looks all require styling products, which ispositive news for the category.

USHoldingfirm

Tom BrannaTom Branna is editor ofHappi, (Household andPersonal ProductsIndustry), a US monthlytrade magazine. Happilooks at the market forsoaps and detergents,cosmetics and toiletries,waxes and polishes,aerosols and relatedchemical specialitiesTo subscribe, visit theHappi websitewww.happi.com

Cash strapped US consumers are makingfewer trips to the salons and department stores infavour of shopping in mass market chains for theirhair styling products. Despite the move to mass,women still expect their gels and sprays to lift,smooth and keep their hair in place.

With economising in vogue, it’s no wonder thatdepartment store sales of hair styling products



since it “helps maintain touchable shape andtexture and has a natural, subtle fragrance”. Newfrom American Crew is Grooming Spray, avariable hold finishing spray, and Firm HoldStyling Gel, which is enriched with naturalextracts to help hair look thicker with added shine.

Got2b (Schwarzkopf & Henkel) meanwhile saysits new Magnetik line is the first men’s hair stylingcollection with female-attracting pheromones.The collection is infused with a synthesis of themale human pheromone androstadienone, provento have a positive effect on a woman’s mood. Eachproduct contains tiny bead filled pheromones thatburst during application. The line includes astyling gel, pomade and cream.

Axe (Unilever) is another brand that plays onmale desire to attract the opposite sex. Axe enteredthe hair styling market this year with the Axe Hairfor men, which promises to help a guy get the girlas well as making his hair look great.

“Our products are based on the consumerinsight that guys keep well groomed to get thegirl,” says David Rubin, marketing director for thebrand. Axe’s line-up includes Messy Look Paste,which gives locks a tousled look; Spiked-Up LookPutty, that offers hold without the crunchof gel; and Clean-Cut Look Pomade for apolished finish.

In June L’Oréal Professionnel rolled out itsHomme collection into US salons. Each productis custom-measured with the exact specificationsof styling polymers, hydrating humectants,grooming emollients and shine agents to delivertargeted and effective results, according to thecompany.

Female focusMintel forecasts that US hair styling product saleswill rise by 11% from 2007 to 2012 to reach$2.3bn. Leading the way of course, are stylingproducts aimed at women. To meet with everchanging fashion trends, marketers are rolling outan array of sprays, spritzes, pastes and gels toappeal to women.

TRESemmé rolled out its new 24 Hour BodyCollection, a series of salon quality productsformulated to retain a voluminous style all day,according to the company. The collection featuresVolume Control Complex, a blend of polymersthat block humidity, allow hair to retain a styleand hold body for up to 24 hours, according tothe company.

Redken (L’Oréal) recently launched its LayerLift 07, a spray gel that adds volume to layeredlocks while helping to prevent flatness and frizz,according to the company. The product’s newClean-Feel Technology creates non-sticky stylemanipulation and anti-frizz control in the form ofa lightweight non aerosol spray.

Big hair is also the main idea behind Pureology’s(L’Oréal) new PureVolume Thickening Mist, alightweight, alcohol-free spray that infuses hairwith volume, texture and shine while keepingcolour vibrant at the same time. It containsorganic botanics of lemongrass, papaya andginseng, while an anti-fade complex maximisescolour retention.

US: Top ten hairspray/spritz brands2008

Brand Manufacturer $m

TRESemmé Tres Two Alberto Culver 39.6

Suave Naturals Unilever 25.3

Salon Grafix Continental 19.7

Sebastain Shaper Sebastain 15.7

Dove Hair Unilever 14.0

Aquanet Lornamead 10.3

Alberto Consort Alberto Culver 9.9

Rave Rave 9.1

Big Sexy Hair Big Sexy Hair 9.0

Aussie Instant Freeze P&G 8.3

Source: IRI Chicago

US: Top ten setting gel/mousse brands,2008

Brand Manufacturer $m

American Crew Colomer 26.6

Got2b Glued Schwarzkopf & 19.4Henkel

John Frieda Frizz-Ease Kao 13.7

Garnier Fructis Style L’Oréal 13.1

LA Looks Schwarzkopf & 12.5Henkel

Pantene Pro V style Curl P&G 10.8

TRESemmé Flawless Alberto Culver 9.8Curls

Clairol Totally Twisted P&G 9.5

TREsemmé Thermal Alberto Culver 8.9

Got2b Hair Styling Schwarzkopf & 7.7Henkel

Source: IRI Chicago

Meanwhile, John Frieda (Kao) is expanding itsFrizz-Ease line with three new styling aids that gobeyond frizz fighting and address specific stylingconcerns for each hair type, according to thecompany. The new formulas provide solutions forheat styling, straightening and curl defining thatalso prevent and calm frizz, ensuring smooth,flawless, lasting styles. One of them, Frizz-EaseHeat Defeat, is a protective styling spray which isdesigned to work with heat tools to smooth,straighten and condition the hair. And all productscontain the brand’s Therma Guard Complex tohelp protect hair from the damage caused by heat.

What’s ahead?Getting shiny, healthy hair that’s easy to achieveand maintain, remains the primary goal of USconsumers. To get there, marketers are rolling outcombination products packed with naturalingredients which are always popular.

Sean Patrick Harrington, senior director ofmarketing, Pureology, adds that another top trendat the moment is heat styling protection. “In 2010and beyond, consumers and professional alike willlook for products, such as Pureology Stylers, that



Almost half of all Russian women today in the16-44 age group apply styling products to theirhair. In 2008, the styling segment demonstrated acertain maturing as young women of 16-34 yearsold ceded their share to older consumers in the 35-65 age group. The most significant growth wasdemonstrated by the 45-54 year old categorywhich increased in size by 8.1% last year,according to Comcon Pharma.

Each year the number of people who use stylingproducts is growing and since 2005 the number ofRussian consumers using styling products hasgrown by 4.5%. Several decades ago this sector wasnot developed enough but now Russians can choosefrom an array of innovative formulas and anabundance of hair styling products. Manufacturersare doing their best to satisfy the increasinglysophisticated consumer by launching innovativestyling products packed with protective and organicingredients. Recently launched hair styling linesinclude several hairsprays, mousses, gels and otherformats with different levels of hold. Product linesin Russia are structured according to the stylingresult – hair volume, texture and shape, hold andshine are all factors which come into play.

Maintaining its holdHairsprays remain the most popular styling formatin Russia. In 2008 the number of hairspray users inthe country increased from 25.5% to 27.4%.

Foams and mousses were next in line reporting a25.9% market share. In contrast, gels and waxesare waning in popularity in Russia and to provethis point gel consumption has decreased from12.1% to 10.4% in the past four years. Meanwhilestyling waxes are used only by 5.7% of Russianconsumers, and this amount hasn’t changedsince 2005.

The most popular styling format sizes in Russia,according to AC Nielsen, are 250ml, 200ml and150ml. Strong and extra strong hold productsenjoy the most popularity holding a 45.4% volumeand 37.9% value share and 43% volume and49.2% value share respectively.

When it comes to the most popular brands, pollposition is held by Taft Three Weather(Schwarzkopf & Henkel), which enjoy the highestrecognition and consumption rate in Russia at

RussiaShapingup well

Anna Dycheva-SmirnoffAnna Dycheva-Smirnoffis editor in chief of www.cosmeticsinrussia.com, an English languageinternet newsletter thatcovers all aspects ofRussia’s fragrance andcosmetics market.To subscribe, contact:[email protected]

Russia: Female hair stylingconsumption by age group, % share

Age group 2007 2008

16-19 9.6 8.1

20-24 16.3 15.7

25-34 21.4 20.1

35-44 22.8 22.6

45-54 16.9 18.8

55-64 8.0 8.3

65+ 4.9 6.4

Source: Comcon Pharma

Russia: Hair styling consumptionby brand, % share

Brand Manufacturer 2007 2008

Taft Three Schwarzkopf & Henkel 24.0 22.1Weather

Taft Schwarzkopf & Henkel 22.9 21.1

Prelest Arnest 21.6 20.3

Avon Avon 13.2 15.9

Gliss Kur Schwarzkopf & Henkel 10.3 13.8

Wellaflex P&G 14.4 13.6

Sunsilk Unilever 13.8 11.8

Prelest Bio Arnest 11.8 11.6

Fructis L’Oréal 7.4 11.3

Oriflame Oriflame 9.1 8.8

Taft Express Schwarzkopf & Henkel 9.2 8.0

Pantene Pro V P&G 8.8 7.6

Chistaya Linia Kalina 5.4 7.0

Faberlic Faberlic 3.9 5.6

Wella Design P&G 5.0 5.6


Russia: Hair styling consumption byformat, % share

2005 2006 2007 2008

Styling products 32.6 34.6 32.7 37.1

Hairsprays 25.3 25.5 25.5 27.4

Foams/mousses 23.2 24.5 24.2 25.9

Gels 12.1 11.1 10.3 10.4

Waxes 5.5 5.6 5.5 5.7


include thermal protection or heat resistantbarriers to protect against hot tool use,” hecomments.

Meanwhile, simplicity also remains a key driver.“The trend to go back to basics is very popular aseveryone wants natural, healthy, beautiful lookinghair,” says Peter Coppola, chairman of hair styling

manufacturer Coppola. “When you use the rightproducts on your hair, you can have fabulouslooking hair every day.”

Fabulous hair can be achived with easy to usestyling products which are priced correctly.Experts agree that this will hold sway in the UShair styling market for years to come.



43.3%. Russian brand Prelest (Arnest) follows Taftin popularity taking 20.3% of the market share.However, these brands together with Sunsilk(Unilever) and Pantene Pro V (P&G) all reportedlower consumption rates in 2008, giving way toAvon, Gliss Kur (Schwarzkopf & Henkel) andFructis (L’Oréal) which have reported good growthof late thanks to aggressive advertising andextensive promotional campaigns. The Russianbrands Chistaya Linia (Kalina) and Faberlic havereported some positive growth in the past year asthe domestic market holds its own.

Securing a footholdIt is clear that multinational companies have a firmgrip on the Russian hair styling market but localplayers are retaining solid sales, particularly in thehairspray category. Arnest, the leading Russianmanufacturer of aerosol and household chemicalgoods products, expanded its brand portfolio bythe acquisition of another competitor company –Garmonia Plus – earlier this year. The company

manufactures the popular Garmonia andAntourage styling brands. This means that Arnestnow controls five styling product brands, the mostpopular of which are Prelest with Prelest Bio,Prelest Classic and Prelest Professional.

According to AC Nielsen, Prelest and OWK’sbrands together held around 27% of the Russianmarket share in this category in 2007. By takingcontrol of the Antourage brand, which coversabout 7% of the Russian styling market, the shareof Arnest as a company has increased considerablyand means it can be competitively priced when itcomes to taking on the multinational brands.Another chance for Arnest’s potential prosperity iscustomers switching to cheaper products.According to research conducted by ComconPharma in November last year, almost 28% ofconsumers have started cutting back on what theyspend on hair care and hair styling products and7% have already switched to cheaper brands. If thistrend continues, this will only benefit the domesticmarket in the long term.

Ana Claudia Freitasand Danilo de Paula –Factor de Solução/TheKline Group LatinAmericaFor further informationcontact Sérgio Rebêlo [email protected]

BrazilUncertainandunravelling

Brazil is one of the fastest growing C&Tmarkets globally and hair plays an important rolein this regard. Apart from being the largestsegment in Brazil’s overall C&T market, hair careproducts post continuously high growth rates andthere is no indication of it slowing down in yearsto come.

According to The Kline Group Brazil, hair caresales increased at a rate of 14.1% between 2003and 2008, above the industry average of 13.5% –totaling BRL8.1bn in 2008. The productcategories driving this result include hair colouringproducts and conditioners, which togetherrepresent approximately 70% of this market.

Hair styling products and sprays on the otherhand represent just 2% of hair sales in Brazil,which equated to BRL136.3m in 2008, and was infact the only product category with declining salesin the same period. There are several reasons forthis negative result but this does not mean thatopportunities cannot be seized in this market.

The importance of groomingBrazilian consumers, especially women, have a veryspecial relationship with their hair as they considerhair styling as one of the fastest options to achievea well groomed look. For Brazilians, the hair showsoff an individual’s personality and is tightly

connected to the concept of beauty. Brazilianwomen take enormous interest in maintaining thebeauty and youthfulness of their hair but faceconstant natural, mechanic and chemical agressorsin their day to day lives.

Brazilians are very keen on using beaches andswimming pools as a means to cool down inBrazil’s warm climate and sunny weather. Indeed,the country is almost entirely located in thetropical region where the hot weather lasts for thewhole year. This means that Brazilian hair iscontinuously exposed to damaging factors such aswind, sea water, sun and chlorine. In addition, theproliferation of chemical process, such as haircolouring and straightening, coupled with theconstant use of blowdryers, straighteners andcurling irons on an almost daily basis, means thatthe hair is undergoing further harm.

This leads Brazilian women to have increasingconcern about their hair’s appearance resulting in acontinuous search for products to help maintainthe healthiest hair possible. Traditional hair stylingproducts are not seen as good enough at deliveringthe treatment which Brazilians currently requireand therefore they are losing space to otherproducts in the market, such as leave-inconditioners for example.

Treatment products which promise to restoreand maintain the smoothness of the hair andmultifunctional products, which offer additionalstyling benefits such as curling or straightening,have increased Brazilian consumers’ options forhair styling and have blurred the boundariesbetween the treatment and styling categories.

The natural lookBrazilians in general prefer natural lookinghairstyles, thus strong hold products and itemswhich make the hair look preened and over-styledare not in much demand these days, undermininghair styling products sales as results show.

Instead, Brazilian consumers demand treatmentproducts that enhance their hair’s natural potential



but which offer added benefits such as shine andcurl definition. As a result, hair styling marketershave seen some cannibalisation in the conditionercategory and this has had an effect on them.

Hair straightening products have also reducedthe demand for hair styling products of late. Theseproducts are hugely in demand by Brazilians asstraight hair is extremely fashionable and thepopulation prefers to style its hair in this way,according to trend forecasters. Getting straighthair through chemical processes drastically reducesthe need for styling products as the results of suchprocedures last for several weeks and therefore anegative impact on hair styling sales was only to beexpected.

Apportioning blameManufacturers and retailers are also accountablefor the poor results of the Brazilian hair stylingindustry. Little promotion and minimal newproduct activity, especially when compared toother C&T categories, has resulted inunderstandably less interest from consumers andthis has contributed to the downsizing of thepresence of hair styling products on retailers’shelves. Hairsprays and mousses, which currentlyrepresent the bulk of hair styling products sales inBrazil, are seen as products belonging to an oldergeneration and are avoided by young consumers toa certain extent.

The consolidation of the Brazilian C&T marketcould be one of the reasons for such inertia – thefive leading companies’ combined sales account for77% of the category and include global playerssuch as L’Oréal and Procter & Gamble as well asdomestic companies such as Bertin, which ownsone of the main hairspray brands in Brazil. It alsoincludes Hypermarcas, which became the leadingBrazilian company in 2008, taking nearly 30% ofthe market after the acquisition of Bozzano andNYLOOKS, two of the most important gel andmousse brands in the country.

Seizing the opportunityThere are still many untapped opportunities in theBrazilian C&T market which, if explored properly,will certainly drive growth for companies in thissegment. Hair styling products with treatmentfeatures should leverage sales when they arelaunched. Multifunctional hair styling productsshould help to drive up sales, because in addition tostyling, they offer other benefits such as addedshine, protection from styling appliances andimproved texture.

Natural ingredients represent anotheropportunity for all Brazilian C&T productcategories, specifically for hair styling products,which still contain large concentrations ofsynthetic ingredients. However, as an alternative tothe difficult task of including natural ingredients togo into hair styling products, the product couldsimply be inspired by nature, meaning that theproduct uses both synthetic and naturalingredients, but still enabling a natural positioningon the shelf which gives it added appeal.

There is also an opportunity to focus on themen’s sector when it comes to hair styling and this

is a largely untapped market in Brazil. Men aremore worried about their appearance these daysthan ever and are really taking care of their hairstyling needs. The metrosexual trend is slowly butsurely becoming popular in Brazil and illustrateshow successful this market could become. Brazilianmen tend to rely on gels, pomades and waxes whenit comes to hair styling and many of them weartheir hair short so this also limits how many stylesthan can have.

Salon selectiveThe salon channel, although small if compared tothe overall market, is rapidly expanding. Thisillustrates Brazilians’ increasing preference formore sophisticated and tailor-made stylingproducts, which are sold exclusively through theprofessional salon channel. Shifting to morefocused retailing options, such as specialised storesand salons, is a good strategy to reach thoseconsumers who are more inclined to buy hairstyling products when they have just had their hairdone or had a treatment in the store or salon.

A flat forecastThe Kline Group’s forecast indicates that hairstyling sales in Brazil are projected to grow by just0.2% from BRL136m to BRL138m from nowuntil 2013. Worryingly, it seems that many factorsare predicted to be against the category gaining instrength, according to industry experts.

Hair straightening is set to remain the preferredstyling trend among Brazilian women, driving salesto this category rather than that of hair styling.Treatment products, with styling benefits such asleave-in conditioners will continue to grow andwill represent continuing competition for hairstyling products. What’s more, young consumers,who will drive growth in the C&T industry in thenext few years, are not big fans of the hair stylingproducts currently available in the market and,unless innovative launches come to market soon,this situation is unlikely to change.

The hair styling category is also affected largelyby the financial position in which consumers findthemselves. However, the global economic crisiswhich started to take hold last year has not yetcaused too big an impact in this sector in Brazil,rather it has affected larger purchases such as carsand household appliances.

However, future uncertainties surroundingemployment and income will slow down themarket in the long term as consumers in generalbecome more cautious and choose lower pricedproducts rather than premium ones and this willdefinitely apply to the hair styling sector.

Being sensitive about what consumers want fortheir hair in terms of appearance and stressing howthe benefits of the products meet consumerexpectations will be crucial to surviving in thismarket. However, luring new users by adding morebenefits than simple holding ability and increasingconsumer awareness of the products are possibleways to grow the sector as a whole. Marketers willbe able to achieve this if more effort is put intomarketing and distribution activities – then thebenefits can really be reaped.

Care Liss is one ofBrazil’s most popularstyling brands

ha ir styling€¦ · · 2009-11-11france the french hair styling market was ... hairspray...

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