Guess what doc?

Did you know…?

…it’s a rabbit’s world!

Breeds Diet Care

Breeds

With almost fifty different pet rabbit breeds, choosing the one most suitable for you will take some research and patience. Here are some popular breeds:

Mini Rex — As the name implies, these rabbits are smaller than average. They are intelligent, energetic and naturally curious and cuddly.

Mini Lop — Known for their long ears, mini lops are more quiet than some breeds, although they thrive on attention.

Netherland Dwarf — One of the smallest pet bunny breeds, Netherland Dwarf rabbits are on average only 1 ½ -2 pounds. Not recommended for small children, as they are more skittish and excitable.

Breeds (cont’d)

Harlequin — Usually patterned black and white in the west. On average, they are very curious and love being the center of attention.

American Chinchilla — Slightly large, but easy to groom with a calm personality and hunger for attention.

Himalayan — Cylindrical in shape and come in a variety of colors.

American Fuzzy Lops — These lops are a long hair breed, and thus require grooming care often. As they age their fur becomes less prone to matting.

Holland Lop — Another long-eared breed, with a medium coat that needs regular grooming. Can be shy or skittish.

Breeds (cont’d)

Flemish Giant — While not likely to fit in average rabbit hutches, these gentle giants are still wonderful pets. At nearly twenty pounds, they’re closer to medium dogs or large cats, but are sedate and take well to human company.

Angora — One of the oldest breeds of rabbit it is thought to have originated in Turkey hundreds of years ago. They were initially bred for their wool. Angoras are gentle and loving in nature, but not recommended for those who don't enjoy grooming their animals.

Dutch — A fancy rabbit weighing up to 5lbs. Breeders are always trying to breed perfectly marked examples, miss-marked youngsters are always available and make excellent pets. They come in various colors: black, blue, chocolate, yellow, tortoiseshell, steel grey, brown grey and pale grey.

Breeds (cont’d)

Polish — First bred in Holland, the Polish is one of the most popular breeds in England and the USA. The red-eyed white is the most common. They have a lively temperament which makes them unsuitable as children's pets.

Silver Fox — The Silver Fox is thought to have originated in Germany and Switzerland and was until recently quite rare. It has an elegant shape and comes in many colors. Because of its long, dense coat it is not suitable as a pet.

Blanc de bouscat — This rabbit is of French origin. It is a fairly large rabbit weighing around 12 pounds for the buck and up to 14 pounds for the doe. It is white and the fur dense and silky.

Diet

Feeding your pet bunny for a long healthy life is just as important as providing a loving home for her. There are many choices out there, the most popular being pellets. Contrary to popular belief, pellets are not the best food for rabbits. They were originally formulated as a convenient and economical way to promote quick growth and weight gain in commercial rabbits raised for food and fur. Our rabbits are our friends and companions and we want them to live long, healthy lives. This is why it is crucial that we learn about and understand their dietary needs.Rabbits have a unique and delicate digestive system and it is important to take this into consideration when planning their meals. It is a system that is designed to take both energy and nutrients from food that is low in both, so providing a rabbit with a high fat/high protein, low fiber diet (pellets alone, for example) is a sure ticket to bad health and even a shortened life span.

Diet (cont’d)

A healthy rabbit that is spayed or neutered, gets a proper diet and lives inside the home as a part of the family has a life span of eight to thirteen years.Like humans, a rabbit’s digestive system maintains a delicate bacterial balance; which can be upset by poor diet, certain medications, too many carbohydrates, etc. Bad bacteria can grow out of control under such conditions and produce toxins that can be harmful or fatal to your rabbit.Pellets and Hay: For rabbits under one year old free feed (as much as they want) a fresh, plain, high fiber (18-20%), mid-range protein (14% - 16%) pellet. Adult rabbits should get 1/4 cup of low protein (10% or lower), high fiber pellets PER DAY, per five (5) pounds of optimum body weight. If you have a rabbit that has a difficult time keeping weight on or off, consult your veterinarian.

Diet (cont’d)

Do not feed your rabbit any of the many commercial pellet mixes that contain seeds, dried fruit or colored cereals. These commercial treat foods are geared to look pleasing to us humans, but they are definitely not in the best health interests of your pet rabbit. Rabbits are not seed, fruit or cereal eaters by nature and these types of junk foods are high in sugars and carbohydrates, and like it happens in humans, it can lead to yeast and bad bacterial overgrowth. Limit treats like fruits to a minimum, no more than one or two tablespoons of high fiber fruits (pears, apples, tomatoes...) per five pounds of optimum body weight, one or two times a week.Here is a list of some fruits and vegetables that are good for rabbits:Vegetables: asparagus, basil, broccoli, carrots, clover, cilantro, parsley, peppermint leaves, pumpkin, and wheat grass.

Diet (cont’d)

Fruits: pears, apple, melon, papaya, peach, plum, blueberry, blackberries, strawberries, and raspberries.

NEVER feed your rabbit nuts, legumes, or grains! They can seriously upset gut function.

ALWAYS monitor your bunny when introducing a new food into her diet.

Care

Cleaning your rabbits litter box is a good opportunity to check for signs of trouble. Check the feces; they should be plentiful, round like peas and of a uniform size and shape. No feces or fewer than usual, misshapen feces, or those strung together with hair ("pearls") may mean bunny needs to see a vet. If he stops eating, drinking, or is in pain consult a vet immediately. If there are no feces for 12-24 hours contact your vet immediately.Making your house ‘rabbit safe’ is a process which begins before this new addition to you family arrives. Rabbits are like children; curious by nature and bound to get themselves into trouble. It is important not to dismiss troublesome behavior as just normal. A good case in point is when I noticed my own rabbit “Carrot” started to nibble at my rubber exercise mat. She had nibbled at other things before, so against my better judgment I thought she’d be ok.

Care (cont’d)

Little did I know she was consuming this rubber like it was food. A few days later, I took her to the hospital and spent a total of $650 on vet bills. I was at the point at which some owners give up on the bunny, but my negligence made me responsible for seeing that she was nursed back to health. Today Carrot is happy and healthy.One can not anticipate all of the household hazards that can hurt a rabbit, but if you remain vigilant your bunny will “show” you all the things he may be interested in which may not be good for him. Designate off-limit areas in your house. For instance, my rabbit is not allowed in any of the bedrooms, or on the couch.

Care (cont’d)

Having a good-sized cage for your bunny is important. It is not recommended to allow your bunny to always roam free, especially if there’s no one home. The cage should be large enough for an adult rabbit to stretch out and still have extra room. If you want your bunny to have yet a bit more room, you can enclose the area around the cage. For instance, I made a gate for Carrot which allows her to leave her cage and move around in a 4 feet by 3 feet space. This extra room; however, is no substitute for letting your bunny “out” every day for at least three hours a day. House rabbits usually enjoy being in the presence of people, so don’t be surprised if your bunny joins the family in the living room for a re-run of Seinfeld.

Care (cont’d)

Rabbits have the same basic needs and demands as most other pets, so if you want one, ask yourself the following questions BEFORE getting your bunny:

1) Can I, or anyone in my home, be around a rabbit and not be allergic to it?

2) Do I have the time, money, and patience to properly care for the rabbit?

3) Do I want a house rabbit? If not, will the climate in my area allow for a rabbit hutch outside?

4) Am I willing to clean up after my rabbit?If you answered no to any of these questions, you may not be

ready.Contacting pet rabbit owners and getting hands-on experience isthe best way to find out what your level of commitment mightbe. Most pet rabbit owners would be delighted to educate others.On the other hand, if you answered yes to all of the above, thenyou are ready to start looking!