Greece

Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Symington, Kate Armstrong, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Hugh McNaughtan, Kate Morgan,

Isabella Noble, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Greg Ward

Cycladesp343

Cretep451

Peloponnesep148

IonianIslands

p678

NortheasternAegean Islands

p589Evia & theSporades

p650

SaronicGulf Islands

p322Dodecanese

p510

NorthernGreece

p255

CentralGreece

p208

Athens &Around

p64

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ON THE ROAD

TH

EA

STOC

K/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

MONASTERY OF ST JOHN THE THEOLOGIAN P581

PH

ILIP LE

E HA

RV

EY/LON

ELY P

LAN

ET ©

GREEK SALAD P49

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Greece . . . . . 4Greece Map . . . . . . . . . . . 6Greece’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 18First Time Greece . . . . . . 20What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Month by Month . . . . . . . 26Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Island Hopping . . . . . . . . 36Cruising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 47Outdoor Activities . . . . . 53Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 57Regions at a Glance . . . . 60

ATHENS & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 64Athens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Athens Ports . . . . . . . . . 135Around Athens . . . . . . . 139

PELOPONNESE . . . . 148Corinthia . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Argolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Mycenae & Around. . . . . . 155Argos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Nafplio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Arkadia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Stemnitsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Dimitsana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Leonidio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Lakonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Sparta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Mystras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Monemvasia . . . . . . . . . . . 175Gythio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177The Mani . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Areopoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Limeni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Gerolimenas . . . . . . . . . . . 184Kardamyli . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Messinia . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Kalamata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Ancient Messini . . . . . . . . 189Koroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Methoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Pylos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Gialova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Elis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Olympia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Andritsena . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Achaïa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Patra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Kalavryta . . . . . . . . . . . . .205

CENTRAL GREECE . . . . . . . . . . 208Delphi & Sterea Ellada . . . . . . . . 210Delphi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Arahova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Amfissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Galaxidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221

Nafpaktos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Messolongi . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Lamia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Iti National Park . . . . . . . 227Thessaly . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Larissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Volos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Pelion Peninsula . . . . . . 233Trikala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Meteora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Kalambaka . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Kastraki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254

NORTHERN GREECE . . . . . . . . . . 255Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . 257Thessaloniki . . . . . . . . . . . 259Halkidiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Litohoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Veria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Edessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Florina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Kastoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Kavala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Thrace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295Xanthi & Around . . . . . . . . 295Komotini . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300Alexandroupoli . . . . . . . . . 301Orestiada . . . . . . . . . . . . .304Epiros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305Ioannina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Metsovo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Zagorohoria . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Preveza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Arta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Parga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Igoumenitsa . . . . . . . . . . .320

SARONIC GULF ISLANDS . . . . 322Aegina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Angistri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Poros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Hydra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Spetses . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

ContentsUNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESThe Acropolis . . . . . . . . . 78Byzantine Athens . . . . 106The Olympic Games . . . 198Ancient Delphi . . . . . . . 214Palace of Knossos . . .464

CYCLADES . . . . . . . . 343Andros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345Tinos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349Syros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353Mykonos . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Delos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Paros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Antiparos . . . . . . . . . . . 378Naxos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380Small Cyclades . . . . . . 390Amorgos . . . . . . . . . . . . 396Ios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402Santorini (Thira) . . . . . . 406Anafi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Sikinos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426Folegandros . . . . . . . . . 428Milos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Kimolos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438Sifnos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Serifos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442Kythnos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445Kea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448

CRETE . . . . . . . . . . . 451Iraklio Province . . . . . . 454Iraklio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Knossos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462Iraklio Wine Country . . . .466Zaros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467Matala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468Hersonisos . . . . . . . . . . . .469Rethymno Province . . . 470Hania Province . . . . . . . 485Hania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485Kissamos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491Lasithi Province . . . . . . 498Agios Nikolaos . . . . . . . . .498Mohlos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504Sitia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504Zakros & Kato Zakros . . . . . . . . . . .506Ierapetra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507Myrtos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508Lasithi Plateau . . . . . . . . .509

DODECANESE . . . . . 510Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512Rhodes Town . . . . . . . . . . 514Halki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Karpathos . . . . . . . . . . . 532Kasos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537Kastellorizo . . . . . . . . . 539Symi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Tilos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546Nisyros . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550Kos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554Astypalea . . . . . . . . . . . 563Kalymnos . . . . . . . . . . . 567Leros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 573Patmos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578Lipsi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587

NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS . 589Ikaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591Fourni Islands . . . . . . . 602Samos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604Chios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613Lesvos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 623Limnos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 635Samothraki . . . . . . . . . . 640Thasos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 644

EVIA & THE SPORADES . . . . . . . 650Evia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652Skiathos . . . . . . . . . . . . 657Skopelos . . . . . . . . . . . . 662Alonnisos . . . . . . . . . . . 667Skyros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 672

IONIAN ISLANDS . . 678Corfu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680Paxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 693Lefkada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696Kefallonia . . . . . . . . . . . 702Ithaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711Zakynthos . . . . . . . . . . . 714Kythira . . . . . . . . . . . . . 719

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726Ancient Greek Culture . . . . . . . . 742The Greek Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 746The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 749Architecture . . . . . . . . . 754Nature & Wildlife . . . . . 759

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 764Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 771Language . . . . . . . . . . 780Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 787Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 797

Itineraries

R

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#_

ITALY

TURKEY

Mykonos

ALBANIA

BULGARIANORTHMACEDONIA

GREECE

Santorini(Thira)

Crete

S E A O FM A R M A R A

M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A

A D R I A T I CS E A

I O N I A NS E A

A E G E A NS E A

Delos

ATHENS

Mt Olympus(2918m)

Hania

Samaria Gorge

Meteora

Ancient Delphi

Knossos

Thessaloniki

Iraklio#•

#f

ÉÉ

É

É

#–

#–É

É

É

#f

#•

The Grand Tour

First trip to Greece? Here’s a mixed bag of the country’s top sights, most beautiful beach-es, cultural highs, contemporary cities and laid-back island life.

Begin in Athens, visiting ancient sites, museums and markets, and sampling the contemporary-art scene and award-winning restaurants. Catch a ferry to chic Mykonos, with its fashionable bars and crowd-pleasing beaches. Day-trip to the sacred island of Delos for its fascinating ancient ruins. Hop a ferry to spectacular Santorini to watch the sun sink from the dramatic cliffs of its volcanic caldera.

Depending on your time, take a ferry or a flight to Iraklio, Crete’s vibrant capital. Ex-plore the magnificent Minoan ruins of Knossos. Continue to Hania with its charming harbour and labyrinth of backstreets, then go trekking through the famous Samaria Gorge, which spills out on to a beach lapped by the crystal-clear Libyan Sea.

Fly from Iraklio to Thessaloniki to lose yourself in Ottoman-style architecture, Turk-ish sweets and a vibrant arts scene. Scale Mt Olympus (2918m), Greece’s highest peak, then visit the monasteries of Meteora, perched high on narrow pinnacles of rock. The final stop, before returining to Athens, is Ancient Delphi, former home of the mysteri-ous Delphic oracle.

2 WEEKS

30©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

A tour of the Ionian Islands and the neighbouring Peloponnesian peninsula delivers beautiful medieval towns, ancient historic sights, dramatic scenery and some great outdoor activities.

Begin on Corfu, spending a couple of days wandering through the amazing blend of Italian, French and British architecture in Corfu’s Old Town, indulging in gourmet cuisine, exploring picturesque coastal villages and lounging on sandy beaches. Corfu is also great for windsurfing, or biking in the mountainous interior.

Hop across to Igoumenitsa on the mainland, and travel down to Lefkada where Lefkada Town is a charming place to spend a day or two, or you could head to villages in the mountainous interior. It’s a short ferry ride from here to Kefallonia. Visit the picturesque village of Fiskardo, kayak to isolated beaches and sample the island’s local wine.

If you have your own transport then you could use the ferry (mid-May to October) from Pesada to Agios Nikolaos on Zakynthos. Otherwise it’s easier and cheaper to cross to mainland Kyllini and reach historic Zakynthos Town from there.

Return to Kyllini and make your way inland to Ancient Olympia where you can stand in the stadium that hosted the first Olympic Games. Stay overnight in the town and take in some of the excellent museums. Head south to the captivating World Heritage–listed ruins of Mystras. This massive ancient fortress town was the last stronghold of the Byzantine Empire.

If you have time and your own wheels to explore, continue south to the rugged Mani region, superb for hiking. Otherwise, head north to graceful Nafplio with its mansions, museums and lively port. From here, it’s easy to do day trips to the impressive acropolis at Tiryns and the citadel of Ancient Mycenae. East of here is the ancient theatre of Epidavros, where it’s well worth taking in some starlit classical performances. Then hop on a ferry from nearby Methana to end your journey in Athens.

3 WEEKS

#_

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

ALBANIA

GREECE

Zakynthos

I O N I A NS E A A E G E A N

S E A

M Y R T O Ö NS E A

M E D I T E R R A N E A N

S E A

ATHENSPeloponnese

NafplioAncient

Olympia

Kefallonia

Corfu

Mystras

AncientMycenae

The Mani

Tiryns

EpidavrosZakynthos

Town

Lefkada

#•

#f

#f

É

#f

É

É

É

É

É

#fKyllini

Ionians & the Peloponnese

31PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

JON

DA

VIS

ON

/LON

ELY P

LAN

ET ©

OLG

A K

OT P

HO

TO/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

Above: Statues of Cleopatra and Dioscorides, Ancient Delos (p370)Left: Port at Nafplio (p159)

32

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Eastern Crete offers a tranquil side of the island with relaxed resorts and impressive sights. From here it’s a short hop to the neighbouring Dodecanese, with their wealth of culture and speedy catamaran services that make island hopping a breeze.

Begin in Iraklio, taking in the excellent archaeological museum. Make a day trip to the captivating Minoan ruins of Knossos before sampling fine vintages in the Iraklio Wine Country, a mosaic of shapely hills, sun-baked slopes and lush valleys.

From Iraklio head east along the northern coast to the relaxed resort town of Agios Nikolaos, which radiates charm and chilled ambience. This makes a great base for exploring the surrounding region. Explore the massive Venetian fortress on Spinalonga Island, a leper colony until 1957 and just a short ferry ride across the Gulf of Mirabello. Visit the surrounding Minoan ruins, such as the Palace of Malia, still filled with mysteries, and rent a bike to explore the tranquil villages of the fertile Lasithi Plateau, lying snugly between mountain ranges and home to Zeus’ birthplace.

Continue on to Sitia, from where you can head for the clear water and white sand of Vaï, Europe’s only natural palm-forest beach. You can also head south from here to Zakros to hike through the dramatic, cave-honeycombed Zakros Gorge to Kato Zakros and its Minoan palace.

From Sitia, get settled on a twice-weekly, 12-hour ferry ride to Rhodes. Spend a couple of days exploring the atmospheric, walled medieval Old Town and checking out its burgeoning nightlife. Visit some of the surrounding beaches and stunning Acropolis of Lindos. Catch a catamaran to lush Nisyros to explore atop the alarmingly thin crust of its caldera and then carry on to Kos to spend a couple of days on gorgeous, sandy Kefalos Bay and to sip coffee and cocktails in Kos Town’s lively squares. There still may be time to squeeze in a quick trip to Patmos to experience its artistic and religious vibe, and to visit the cave where St John wrote the Book of Revelations, before backtracking to Kos from where you can catch onward flights to Athens.

4 WEEKS

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#• #•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#_

tUrKeY

Crete

A E G E A NS E A

M E D I T E R R A N E A N

S E A

ATHENS

Rhodes

Malia

LasithiPlateau

Patmos

Kos

Nisyros

KnossosSitiaAgios

Nikolaos

SpinalongaIsland

Vaï

Kefalos Bay

RhodesTown

Iraklio

Zakros Gorge

#•

É

É

É

#f

#f

É

É

#f

#–

ÉÉ

É

É

É

Crete & the Dodecanese

33PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

##

#

#

# #

## ###

# #

#

# ##

#

#

##

#

##

#

##

##

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

••

•

•

• •

•• •••

• •

•

• ••

•

•

••

•

••

•

••

••

•

•

••

•

•

•

•

_•

•

•

•

•

_

•

•

••

•

•

•

•

••

•

_

_

R

RR

R

R

R

RR

R

w

w

ITALY

GREECE

NORTHMACEDONIA

ALBANIA

KOSOVO

Hydra

Skiathos

Poros

Antikythira

Spetses

Kefallonia

Corfu

Zakynthos

Lefkada

Kythira

Ithaki

Skopelos

Aegina

Ionian Sea

AdriaticSea

PELOPONNESE

Sterea Ellada

Epiros Thessaly

IONIAN ISLANDS

PelionPeninsula

Macedonia

Halkidiki

MyrtoönSea

Gulf ofCorinth

S

M E D I T E R R A N E A N

S E A

LakeKremasta

LakeAliakmonas Mt Olympus

Mt Iti

Mt Parintha

Mt Parnassos Livadia

Kilkis

Edessa

Kastoria

Kalambaka

IgoumenitsaKarditsaArta

Preveza

Lefkada Town

Argostoli

CorinthPyrgos Nafplio

Sparta

Berat

Sandanski

Zakynthos Town

Bitola

Halkida

Piraeus

Serres

Katerini

Volos

Agrinio

Kalamata

TarantoLecce

Skhoder

Pogradec

Sarandë

Cosenza

Kozani

IoanninaLarissaCorfu Town (Kerkyra)

Lamia

Patra

Tripoli

Bari

Brindisi

Durrës

Vlorë

Prilep

Thessaloniki

ATHENS

TIRANA

PRISTINA SOFIA

SKOPJE

#_#•

#•Pyli

#•Ancient Dion

Off the Beaten Track

Head to this rugged coastal region of arkadia, between Leonidio and the village of Geraki in Lakonia, for one of the most scenic drives or bike rides in the Peloponnese. (p165)

KYNOURIA

this charming and time-forgotten Ionian island offers lush valleys, abrupt overgrown gorges, and flower-speckled cliffs tumbling into the vivid blue sea as well as picturesque villages with sugar-cube architecture. (p719)

KYTHIRA

escape touristy athens by heading to this suburb offering pretty neo-classical and art-deco architecture, the promenade park of Fokionos negri and a municipal market hosting a variety of social projects. (p97)

KYPSELI

Guarding the entrance to a spectacular gorge in the southern Pindos range Pyli is the jumping off point for a short drive or hike to the stunning 13th-century Church of Porta Panagia. (p246)

PYLI

stand where alexander stood and made sacrifices to the Olympian gods before he became ‘the Great’. there’s a ruined roman theatre here, as well as surrounding woods rich in wildlife. (p284)

ANCIENT DION

34

PLAN YO

UR TRIP OFF t

He B

ea

te

n t

ra

CK

444444 44

444

44

#

# #

#

#

#

#

#

#

##

# ##

##

#

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

# #

#

#

#

#

#

#

•

• •

•

•

•

•

•

•

••

• ••

••

•

•

•

•

•

••

•

•

•

• •

•

•

•

•

•

•

R

TURKEY

SerifosSifnos

SikinosFolegandros

LittleCyclades

Nisyros

FourniIslands

HalkiDODECANESE

AgiosEfstratios

Gavdos

BULGARIA

Samothraki

Psara

RhodesAnafi

Patmos

Chios

Imvros(Gökçeada)

Limnos

Samos

Naxos

Kastellorizo(Megisti)

Thasos

Andros

Karpathos

Kos

Ikaria

Skyros

Crete

Evia

Tinos

Paros

Milos

Kea

AmorgosKalymnos

Ios

Kythnos

Astypalea

MykonosSyros

Santorini(Thira)

Alonnisos

Kasos

Tilos

Leros

Lesvos

SymiAegean

Sea

Black Sea(Karadenız)

Sea of Marmara

Attica

NORTHEASTERNAEGEAN ISLANDS

CYCLADES

Thrace

Sporades

Sea of Crete

KarpathianSea

ThracianSea

SaronicGulf

M E D I T E R R A N E A N

S E A

The Dardanelles

AegeanSea

Evros (Maritsa)

Agios Nikolaos

Orestiada

Xanthi

Myrina

ChiosTown

Kos Town

Hania PigadiaRethymno

KırklareliEdirne

Lüleburgaz

Alacati

Kuşadası

Çanakkale

Edremit

Bodrum

Fethiye

Khaskovo

ski

DramaTekirdağ

Yenihisar(Didim)

Kavala

Bandırma

Burgas

Kârdzhali

Alexandroupoli

İzmir

Balikesir

Komotini

MytiliniTown

Rhodes Town

Iraklio

Plovdiv

#•Kapetaniana

#e

0 200 km0 100 miles

these three tiny islands in the Dodecanese are magical and barely discovered beyond an eclectic mix of yachties, artists and the occasional backpacker. (p586)

AGATHONISI, ARKI & MARATHI

Dozens of little-visited villages and isolated beaches are scattered around the second-largest of the Cyclades islands. the mountainous interior is superb hiking territory offering majestic landscapes peppered with wildflowers and archaeological sites. (p345)

ANDROS

explore the scenic old town with its pastel-coloured, timber-framed houses and grand neoclassical mansions. Use it as a base to tour the surrounding countryside of thrace home to forests, mountains and thermal baths. (p295)

XANTHI

the least touristed of the inhabited sporades, this wild and lushly mountainous island offers seductive aquamarine bays and pebble-and-sand beaches protected within a national marine park. (p667)

ALONNISOS

Clinging to the slopes of the highest peak in the asteroussia mountain range, Kapetaniana is a remote hamlet that is a mecca for rock climbers and hikers. (p469)

KAPETANIANA

35PLAN

YOUR TRIP O

FF tH

e Be

at

en

tr

aC

K

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Al-though we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selec-tion of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro-duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

785785

WRITER THANKSSimon RichmondMany thanks to the following: Steve Boyd, Valie Voutsa, Vangelis Koronakis, Yannis Bournias, Nikos Tsoniotis, Danae Zaoussis, Zora O’Neill, Harry and Jane Lushington, and Brana Vladisavljevic for hiring me for a great gig.

Andrea Schulte-PeeversHeartfelt thank yous to Kerstin Göllrich for her patience, curiosity, stamina and awesome driving skills; Johannes Bolz for literally going the extra mile for me in the Kritsa Gorge; Konstantinos and Natalie Zivas for wonderful insider tips on Elounda and the north coast, and father Vaggelis for his kitchen wizardry; Alaska Klaus for his insights into hiking the E4; Margarita Kurowska and Jutta Berger for keeping things under control on the home front; and David for being with me in spirit.

Andy SymingtonSo many people in the Peloponnese were so helpful along the way that it made the trip easy. Particular thanks to Kate Armstrong, Néna Grintziá, Theo and Susanna Spiliopoulos and Chris DeLiso for providing information, and to Brana Vladislavljevic for the opportunity. Also many thanks to Richard Green for those lectures on Greece many years ago that sparked a love of the country’s archaeology.

Kate ArmstrongI’d be a trillionaire for all the times I’ve uttered efharisto poli to the helpful Greeks who’ve opened their hearts. Especially Eleni and Yiannis (Kalymnos), Michalis of Michalis Studios (Lipsi), the Alexakis

family (Alexakis Hotel; Kos), Michalis (Café Angolo Italiano; Karpathos), George (Euromoto; Karpathos), fabulous walkers Mike and John (Tilos), Tonia, Maria and Christina (Leros). Brana V, DE extraordinaire, you were the best of the LP best to work with. Finally, fellow Gemini Apostolos, without whom my Odyssey would have stalled in the Meltemi winds.

Stuart ButlerThank you once again to my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for putting up with me sauntering off to sunny Greece while they were stuck at home. And then I must thank them again for being the best travel partners I could ever want when they flew out to Corfu to join me towards the end of my research. Thank you also to Brana for giving me this dream gig in the first place.

Peter DragicevichIt’s always a complete delight to have company on the road, especially when it comes in the form of one of your very best friends. Thank you, David Mills, for being so diligent in assisting me in researching the Mykonos nightlife. Special thanks are also due to editor extra­ordinaire Brana Vladisavljevic for all of the support and opportunities you’ve given me over the years.

Trent HoldenFirst up, a huge thanks to the destination editor, Brana Vladisavljevic, not only for commissioning me on this title, but for all her work at Lonely Planet over the past 15 years. You will be missed! Also sending out my gratitude to the Cretan people who make this island so special with their humbling hospitality,good humour and willingness to help out at all times. Finally lots of love to my fiancée Kate Morgan, and to my family and friends.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

786

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Brana for entrusting me with half of the Cyclades, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Alex in Halki (Naxos), Apostolos of Atlantis Oia in Santorini, the lifeguard who rescued me when I was swept out to sea on a paddleboard in Ios, Kostas in Folegandros, Alix and Semeli in Amorgos, Flora in Antiparos, plus all wine experts on Sikinos, Paros, Santorini and in Naxos who’ve contributed to my ongoing oenological education.

Vesna MaricMany thanks to Brana Vladisavljevic, who commis­sioned the project – it was always an absolute joy to work with her. Thanks to Stathis Kampouridis for his generosity in Athens.

Hugh McNaughtanI’d like to thank my long­suffering family, Brana, LP tech support and all the kind people of Macedonia who showed me such hospitality.

Kate MorganHuge thanks to amazing destination editor Brana for commissioning me to work on Crete, LP won’t be the same without you. Thank you to Despina in Hania for all of your assistance, to the staff at the Hania tourist information office for your help and to all of the amazing Cretans I met along the way – your gener­osity and hospitality is unforgettable. And, as always, thank you to my fiancé Trent for being the best travel companion and for driving me all over Hania.

Isabella NobleEfharisto to all the wonderful people who helped out on the road and back at home. Denis in Skia­thos; Heather, Alexandra, Voula, Kostas, Valeria and Natasa in Skopelos; Mary, Pakis, Paul, Angela and Justine in Alonnisos; Lefteris, Katerina, Chrysanthi, Amanda and Nikos in Skyros; Marina, Giorgios and Steven in Evia. Back at home, thanks to Jack, Andrew, Papi and Sarah.

Zora O’NeillΕυχαριστώ to Leon Vainikos, Simon Richmond, Alex Robertson­Textor and, as ever, my chauffeur, Peter Moskos. In the LP offices, huge thanks to Brana Vladisavljevic for setting Team Greece on the right track.

Leonid RagozinI would like to thank Christos of Ikaria Utopia for helping to get my head around new things on the island; Samos Volunteers for insights into the ref­ugee situation; Manolis of Belvedere in Pythogario for good tips about Samos; Paulette Roberge for opening the doors of her splendid Inousses villa; dozens of other friendly and hospitable people who shared ideas and pointed me in the right direction. I also feel very grateful to Greece for its very exist­ence – it’s a great and beloved country.

Kevin RaubThanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow partners in crime at LP. On the road, Kjetil Jikiun, Giorges Kteniadakis, Andria Mitsakis, Iossif Ser­afimidis, Dr Emmanuel Prokopkis and the nurses at Pagni, Lydia and Nikos and the brews of Kykao and Solo.

Greg WardMany thanks to all the wonderful people who helped me along the way, and who created so many happy memories. And thanks above all to my dear wife, Sam, for sharing such an amazing trip.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen­Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Roussanou monastery, Meteora; Olimpio Fantuz/4Corners Images ©

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Symington, Kate Armstrong, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Hugh McNaughtan, Kate Morgan, Isabella Noble, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Greg Ward. The previous edition was written by Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Craig McLachlan, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin, Andrea

Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Greg Ward and Richard Waters.This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Brana Vladisavljevic Senior Product Editors Elizabeth Jones, Kathryn Rowan Regional Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Product Editors Claire Rourke, Fergus O’Shea Book Designers Jessica Rose, Mazzy Prinsep Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Samantha Cook, Michelle Coxall, Melanie

Dankel, Jennifer Hattam, Rosie Nicholson, Monique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Tamara Sheward Assisting Cartographer James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Carolyn Boicos, Sue Burt, Hannah Cartmel, Fergal Condon, Gwen Cotter, Shona Gray, Karen Henderson, Sandie Kestell, Amy Lynch, Catherine Naghten, Charlotte Orr, Genna Patterson, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawlings, Georgia Tsarouhas, Amanda Williamson

787

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 764accommodation 20, 108-11,

764-6language 780

Achaïa 202-7Acropolis (Athens) 9, 74-7,

78-9, 76, 8-9, 74museum 80-1walking tour 78-9, 78-9

activities 53-6, see also individual activities

Adamas 433-4Aegean Islands, see North-

eastern Aegean IslandsAegiali 400-1Aegina 324-8, 325Agapi (Tinos) 352Agia Galini 484Agia Kyriak 243-4Agia Kyriaki 539Agia Marina (Kasos) 539Agia Marina (Leros) 574-5Agia Pelagia 723Agia Theodoti 404Agiasos 633Agios Efstratios 638Agios Georgios (Iraklia) 391Agios Georgios (Sikinos)

426Agios Ioannis 238Agios Kirykos 593-5Agios Nikitas 701-2Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 424Agios Nikolaos (Lasithi

Province) 498-501, 500Agios Nikolaos

(Zakynthos) 717Agios Nikolaou 348Agios Pavlos 484Agreco Farm 475, 478Aidonia 349Ainos National Park 706air travel 40, 771-2, 773

airfares 771airlines 40, 771, 773airports 771to/from Greece 771-2within Greece 773

Akrotiri 421Alexander the Great 729-30Alexandroupoli 301-2Aligaria 393Alinda 577-8Almyros 393Alonnisos 667-72, 668Alopronia 426alphabet, Greek 781Ambelakia 230Amfissa 220-1Ammoudi 416Ammouliani Island 281Amorgos 396-402, 398Analipsi 567Anavatos 619Ancient Agora 84-6, 86Ancient Delos 370-1, 418Ancient Delphi 10, 212, 214-

5, 10, 214-5Ancient Greek culture 742-5ancient history 24Ancient Messini 189-91Ancient Olympia 16, 196-7,

197, 16Ancient Thebes (Thiva) 222Andissa 631Andritsena 201-2Andros 345-9, 347Angistri 328-9animals 661, 760-62, see

also bears, horses, seals, turtles, wolves

Anogi 713-14Anogia 480-1Ano Meria 432-3Antia 656Antiparos 378-80, 372Antipaxi 695, 694Aphrodite 721Apikia 349Apiranthos 390Apokrousi 447

Apollo 370Apollo Coast 139-43Apollonas 387Apollonia 440-1Arahova 219-20archaeological digs 200archaeological museums

Andros Archaeological Museum 348

Archaeological Collection of Serifos 445

Archaeological Museum (Agia Marina) 574

Archaeological Museum (Arta) 319

Archaeological Museum (Corfu) 22, 683

Archaeological Museum (Delos) 371

Archaeological Museum (Fry) 538

Archaeological Museum (Gialos) 544

Archaeological Museum (Hora) 382-3

Archaeological Museum (Ios) 403-4

Archaeological Museum (Kastellorizo) 541

Archaeological Museum (Kos Town) 556

Archaeological Museum (Lamia) 226

Archaeological Museum (Lavrio) 139

Archaeological Museum (Mandraki) 550

Archaeological Museum (Nafplio) 159

Archaeological Museum (Paros) 373

Archaeological Museum (Pera Gialos) 564

Archaeological Museum (Pothia) 569

Archaeological Museum (Skyros Town) 674

Archaeological Museum (Sparta) 169

Archaeological Museum (Thessaloniki) 259

Archaeological Museum (Veria) 285-6

Archaeological Museum of Amfissa 221

Archaeological Museum of Amphipolis 268

Archaeological Museum of Apiranthos 390

Archaeological Museum of Eretria 653

Archaeological Museum of Karystos 656

Archaeological Museum of Kea 449

Archaeological Museum of Kissamos 491

Archaeological Museum of Melos 435

Archaeological Museum of Messenia 187-8

Archaeological Museum of Mykonos 361

Archaeological Museum of Neapolis Voion 177

Archaeological Museum of Patra 202

Archaeological Museum of Pella 286

Archaeological Museum of Rethymno 471

Archaeological Museum of Sifnos 441

Archaeology Collection (Amorgos) 399

Chora Archaeological Museums 195

Delphi Archaeological Museum 216

Hania Archaeological Museum 486-7

Heraklion Archaeological Museum 455, 458-9

Marathon Archaeological Museum 144

Museum of Ancient Eleutherna 478

Museum of Ancient Messini 190

Museum of Prehistoric Thera 408-9

National Archaeological Museum 92-5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

788

IND

EX A-B

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Olympia Archaeological Museum 197, 200

Piraeus Archaeological Museum 135

Sitia Archaeological Museum 504-5

Skyros Town 674Syros Archaeological

Museum 355Tinos Archaeological

Museum 351Vergina Royal Tombs

Museum 286archaeological sites

Acropolis (Athens) 9, 74-81, 76, 8-9, 74, 78-9

acropolis (Larissa) 228acropolis (Skala) 580 Acropolis of Agios

Andreas 442Acropolis of Lindos 526Acropolis of Rhodes 518Aegiali 401Agia Triada 468Ancient Agora (Kos) 556Ancient Akrotiri 421Ancient City Wall

(Mandraki) 551Ancient Corinth 152-3Ancient Delos 370-1, 418Ancient Delphi 10, 212,

214-15, 10, 214-15Ancient Eleusis 146Ancient Eleutherna 478Ancient Ialysos 529Ancient Kamiros 529Ancient Lato 503-4Ancient Macedon 286Ancient Messini 190Ancient Mycenai 155-6Ancient Nemea 153-4Ancient Olympia 196-7Ancient Sparta 169-71ancient theatre

(Larissa) 228Ancient Thira 420Arcadian Gate 190-1Archaeological Site of

Abdera 297Archaeological Site of

Alyki 648Asklepieion 560Byzantine Paleohora 324Casa Romana (Kos

Town) 23, 557Dimini 230Dodoni 309

Epidavros 157Eretria 653Evia 656Evpalinos Tunnel 609Gortyna 468Greek & Roman Ruins

(Argos) 159Hadrian’s Library 97Heraion 610Homer’s Tomb 403Horio 531Karthaia 450Kastro 441Knights of St John

Castle 541Lappa 475Lerna 158Minoa 398Necropolis

(Argyroupoli) 475Nekromanteion of

Acheron 319-20Nestor’s Place 195Palace of Galerius 263Palace of Knossos 14,

462-6, 754, 463, 14Palace of Malia 468Paleohora 328Paleokastro 551Paleokastro & Nestor’s

Cave 194Pella 286Phaestos 468Philippi Archaeological

Site 293Ramnous 144-5Roman Agora 90-1 Roman Forum 263Sanctuary of Aclepius 157Sanctuary of

Apollo 212-13Sanctuary of Athena

Pronea 216Sanctuary of the Great

Gods 642Sesklo 230Skarkos 403Skyros 677Temple of Apollo 382Theatre of Epidavros 157Tigani 179-80Tiryns 156-7Trypiti 435Western Excavation Site

(Kos) 556Zakros Palace 506

architecture 754-8, see also historic buildings

Anafiotika 87Thessaloniki Concert

Hall 263

area codes 19Areopoli 182-3Argolis 155-64Argos 158-9Argostoli 704-7, 705Argyroupoli 475Arkadia 165-207Arkasa 535Armenistis 597-602Arni 348art courses 167art galleries & museums

A.antonopoulou.art 96Allouche Benias

Gallery 96Art Space 420Averoff Gallery 311-12Basil & Elise Goulandris

Foundation 22, 101Bernier/Eliades 96Breeder 96CAN 96Citronne 331 Corfu Museum of Asian

Art 682, 25Ecclesiastical Art

Museum 301Experimental Center for

the Arts 265Macedonian Museum

of Contemporary Art 264-5

Modern Greek Art Museum 518

Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 457-8

Municipal Art Gallery of Larissa 228

Museum Alex Mylona 91Museum of

Contemporary Art (Andros) 348

Museum of Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 471

Museum of Cycladic Art 101

Museum of Greek Children’s Art 87

Museum of History & Art 225

Museum of Islamic Art 97

National Gallery – Nafplio Annex 161-2

National Musuem of Contemporary Art 73

Popotech Workshop 238 TAF 96Villa Bianca 265Zoumboulakis Gallery 96

Arta 318-19

artistsChalepas, Yannoulis 353Tsoclis, Costas 352

arts 749-53, see also individual arts

Athens 104Skyros 674Skyros Centre 672

arts & crafts 24Asfodilitis 402Assos 711Astris 646Astypalea 563-7, 564Athens 10, 60, 64-147, 65,

66-7, 70-1, 82, 88-9, 98-9, 112-13, 118, 10

accommodation 64, 108-11

activities 102children, travel with 87climate 64combined tickets 73drinking & nightlife

120-5entertainment 125-7festivals & events 105food 64, 111, 114-17,

119-20, 51highlights 65history 68-9, 72itineraries 69, 102-3, 103LGBT+ travellers 123neighbourhoods 66-7shopping 127-31sights 72-102, 105tourist information 131-2tours 104-5travel seasons 64travel to/from 132-3travel within 133-5walking tour 102-3, 103

Athos Peninsula 279-83, 280

ATMs 768austerity 72, 740-1Avgonyma 618Avlemonas 724

BBalos 492basketball 125, 747bathrooms 770Batsi 346-7beaches 24

Agia Marina 546Agios Georgios 535Agios Nikolaos

(Arkasa) 535 Agios Nikolaos (Lasithi

Province) 498

789IN

DEX B

-C Agios Nikolaos (Pedi) 546Alexandroupoli 301Alonnisos 671Amorgos 401Anafi 424Andros 349Anthony Quinn

Beach 525Apella Beach 534Apollo Coast 140Arvanitia Beach 161Askeli Beach 331Avlaki 539Cyclades 358, 376Damouhari 239Eristos Beach 549Folegandros 431Ftenagia Beach 531Gialiskari 448, 450Halikadha Beach 328Halkidiki 276, 277Hania 488Helatros 539Hora Sfakion 493Hrysi Akti (Golden

Beach) 378Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden

Beach) 648Ios 404Iraklia 391Kambos Beach 584Kanali Beach 331Kania Beach 531Karathona Beach 162Katsadia Beach 588Kavala 292-3Kefalos Bay 562Korissia 448Kos Town 555, 557Koufonisia 394Kythnos 447Ladiko Beach 525Lambi Beach 584Liendou Beach 587Livada 352 Livadi 566Livadi Geranou Beach 585Marathon 145Marmari 567Mavrovouni Beach 177Merihas 445Mikro Beach 243Milos 437Mykonos 366-7Myrtos Beach 710Navagio Beach 717, 38Naxos 382, 388Neorion Beach 332nudist beaches 357, 367,

379, 396

Panormo 479Parga 319Paros 378Pera Gialos 566Petani Beach 707Petra Beach 585Plaka Beach 549Platys Gialos Beach 588Pondamos Beach 531Pouri 237Preveli Beach 15, 484, 15Preveza 317Psathi (Ios) 404Psathi (Kymolos) 438Psili Ammos Beach 585Rhodes 525, 526, 527Russian Bay 332Santorini 421Schinousa 393Serifos 443Shipwreck Beach 717, 38Sifnos 442Sikinos 426Skiathos 660Skopelos 666Skyros 675, 676Steno Beach 567Tinos 352Vagia Beach 585Voidokilia Beach 194Xanthi 297

bears 589, 760bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 761birdwatching 304

Skala Kallonis 631Tilos 548

boat travel 36-41, 772-3, 776, 41, 774-5

boat tripsAgia Marina 575Agios Nikolaos 499Alonnisos 668-9Athos Peninsula 282Creta Semi-

Submarine 58Diafani 537Fry 538Gialos 544 Ioannina 309Pera Gialos 565Plakias 482Rhodes Town 518Skiathos 660-1Skiathos Town 658Skopelos Town 663

Book of Revelation 584books 727, 728, 739, 742,

750, 750-1

border crossings 772breweries

Cretan Brewery 492Santorini 422Tinos 351

bridgesGorgopotamos Railway

Bridge 226Kokkori Bridge 314Old Bridge 318Plakida Bridge 314

Brooke, Rupert 677brown bears 289, 760budgeting 19, 57bus travel 776, 779bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 768-9Byron, Lord 225Byzantine Athens 68,

107, 106-7Byzantine culture 756Byzantine museums

Byzantine & Christian Museum 100-1

Byzantine & Post- Byzantine Collection 488

Byzantine Museum of Argolis 158

Byzantine Museum of Kastoria 291

Byzantine Museum (Veria) 286-7

Museum of Byzantine Culture 262

Museum of Byzantine & Post-Byzantine Art of Kythira 723

Ccanyons

Agia Irini Gorge 495Andros 349Imbros Gorge 493Kritsa Gorge 504 Samaria Gorge 12,

494, 13Vikos Gorge 313-14 Vyros Gorge 184Zakros Gorge 507

Cape Prasonisi 528Cape Sounion 143-4car travel 776-9,

driving tours 172, 180-1, 298, 288, 181

hire 777road distance chart 778road hazards 777-8road rules 778

castles & fortressesAcrocorinth 153

Agios Georgios Kastro 707

Akronafplia Fortress 161Bourtzi 161Byzantine fortress

(Didymotiho) 303Castle (Nafpaktos) 223Castle of Myrina 635-6Castle of Platamonas

285Castle of the Knights

(Kos Town) 555Drakanos 596Eptapyrgion 266Firkas Fortress 488Fortezza (Rethymno)

470Fortress of Agia

Mavra 698Fortress of Trikala 245-6Kastro 721Kastro (Hora) 564Kastro (Kalamata) 188Kastro (Koroni) 191Kastro (Methoni) 192Knights Castle

(Mandraki) 550Koules Fortress 455Kythnos 447Larissa Castle 158-9Neo Kastro (Pylos) 193Palaio Frourio 682-3Palamidi Fortress 159Pandeli Castle 574Plaka 435Pyli Castle 561Serifos 445Tower of Ayia 387Tower of Sanoudos 382Venetian Castle

(Parga) 319Venetian Fortifications

(Hania) 488catacombs 435cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Agio Galas Cave 619Blue Cave 540Cave of the Lakes 206Didyma Caves 157Dikteon Cave 509, 477Diros Caves 179Franchthi Cave &

Paralia 157-8Ideon Cave 481Iraklia 391Kastania Cave 177Matala Caves 468Melidoni Cave 479Naxos 389

790

IND

EX C-E

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Paros 378Perama Cave 309Petralona Cave 264

Cavo d’Oro 655cell phones 18, 769Central Greece 60,

208-54, 209accommodation 208climate 208food 208, 231highlights 209travel seasons 208travel to/from 209

ceramicsCyclades 376Naxos 390

children, travel with 57-9, 87

Chios 613-23, 614history 614-15travel to/from 615travel within 615

Chios Town 615-18, 616churches & cathedrals 25

Agia Panagia 235Agia Paraskevi 230Agia Sofia 176Agioi Taxiarhes

(Milies) 241Agios Dimitros Church

(Pinakates) 241Agios Ioannis

Theologos (Lipsi Village) 587

Agios Ioannis Theologos (Skala) 585

Agios Spyridon Church 471

Agios Vasilios 572Alonnisos 670Basilica of Agia

Sophia 535Church of Agia

Ekaterini 90Church of Agia Marina

(Kissos) 237Church of Agia Sofia 264Church of Agioi

Anargyroi (Athens) 87Church of Agioi

(Kastoria) 290Church of Agios Andreas

202-3Church of Agios

Athanasios 303Church of Agios

Dimitrios 263-4

Church of Agios Eleftherios 96-7

Church of Agios Nikolaos (Emborios) 530

Church of Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 90

Church of Agios Stefanos 290

Church of Nikolaos Orfanos 266

Church of Osios David 265

Church of Panagia Kera 503

Church of Porta Panagia (Pyli) 246

Church of St Georgios Diasorites 388

Church of St John the Theologian 445

Church of Taxiarches 182Church of the

Annunciation 351Church of the

Dormition 355Church of the Dormition

of the Virgin Mary 251Church of the

Nativity 438Church of the Panagia

Archiropiitos 264Church of the Seven

Martyrs 441Church of the Taxiarchis

of the Metropolis 290-1

Kimisis Tis Theotokou Cathedral 333

Moni Agios Nikolaos 340Moni Dafniou 107, 146,

107Palaiopanayia 572Panagia 430Panagia

Ekatontapyliani 373Panagia Paraportiani 361Panagia Thalassitra 435Skiathos Town 658Skopelos 666St Andrew’s

Church 442St George’s

Cathedral 355St John the Russian 654

cinema, see filmsclassical music 753climate 8, 26-9, 37, see also

individual regionsclimbing 482, see also

rock climbingcoffee 49Cohen, Leonard 337Colossus of Rhodes 515

consulates 766convents, see monasteries

& conventscooking courses 48Corfu 14, 680-93, 681, 14

travel to/from 680travel within 680

Corfu Town 682-9, 684-5Corinth Canal 152Corinthia 149-55courses

art 170cooking 48

credit cards 768Crete 61, 451-509, 452-3

accommodation 451climate 451food 13, 451, 13highlights 452-3history 454

cruising 37-40, 42-6, see also boat travel, boat trips, island hopping

Santorini 422cultural centres 23, 461culture 674, 742-5currency 18customs regulations 766Cyclades 12, 61, 343-450,

344, 12accommodation 343beaches 358, 376climate 343ferry travel 345food 343, 418highlights 344history 345maps 345travel to/from 345travel seasons 343

cycling 56, 773Skopelos Town 663Zagorohoria 314

DDamouhari 238-9dance 753dangers, see safetyDelos 369-71Delphi 210-19, 212Delphi Oracle 213Diafani 536-7Diakofti 585Dimitsana 165-8disabilities, travellers

with 764distilleries 389diving & snorkelling 53,

450

Agios Nikolaos 498, 499 Alonnisos 672Amorgos 400Atlantis Oia 23 Cyclades 378Fiskardo 710Folegandros 430Gialova 195Halki 531Hania 489Hora Sfakion 493Ios 404Ithaki 712Kalymnos 572Kythnos 447Lakka (Paxos) 696Lyndos 526Mykonos 367Oia 416Paros 379Rethymno 471 Rhodes Town 518 Santorini 421-2Serifos 443Sithonian Peninsula 277Skiathos 661Skiathos Town 658Skopelos Town 663Vasiliki 700-1

Dodecanese 23, 62, 510-88, 511

accommodation 510climate 510food 510highlights 511history 512travel seasons 510

Donousa 395-7drama 742drinks 49-50, see also

breweries, ouzo, winedriving, see car traveldriving licences 777driving tours

Langada Pass 172Mani, the 180-1, 181Naxos 388Northern Greece

(Pomakohoria) 298Dryopida 447Dryos 386Durrell, Gerald 692Durrell, Lawrence 692DVDs 764

Eeconomy 740-1ecotourism

791IN

DEX E-H

Enagron Ecotourism Village 481

Milia 496Edessa 287-8Eftalou Beach 628Elafonisi 497-8electricity 767Elefsina 146-7Elounda 502-3embassies 766Emborios (Halki) 530-1Emborios (Nisyros) 553emergencies 19, 782-3entehna 752environmental issues 762Epiros 305-21, 306

activities 305-6food 306history 305travel to/from 306

Eretria 653Ermoupoli 355-7, 356etiquette 52Evdilos 595events, see festivals &

events Evia 650-7, 651

accommodation 650climate 650food 650highlights 651travel to/from 652, 654travel seasons 650

exchange rates 19Exo Gonia 420Exobourgo 352

FFalasarna 492family life 747Faros 442Fasolou 442Fermor, Patrick Leigh 184-5ferry companies 773, 776ferry travel 36-41, 772-3,

776, 41, 774-5festivals & events 26-9

Aegina Fistiki Fest 326apple festival

(Zagora) 236Armata 341Athens & Epidavros

Festival 158Blessing of the

Waters 26, 27Domus Festival 383Epiros 316Festival of Agios

Georgios 219

Festival Olympou 283Kalamata International

Dance Festival 188Miaoulia Festival 335, 28Nafplion Festival 162Nestorio River

Festival 291Patras Carnival 203PhotoBiennale 268Reworks International

Music Festival 268Skyros Carnival 674Spartathlon 170-1Thessaloniki

Documentary Festival 268

Thessaloniki International Film Festival 268

Thessaloniki Street Food Festival 268

Xanthi Carnival 297films 268, 751

Mamma Mia! 239, 662, 663, 666, 667, 748

The Guns of Navarone 525

Zorba the Greek 525filo 474Finikas 357Finiki 535Fira 408-16, 410Fiskardo 709-11flora 759-60Florina 289-90Folegandros 428-32, 429folklore museums

Folk & Maritime Museum 438

Folk Art Museum 311Folkloric Museums

(Gythio) 178Folklore Museum

(Menetes) 534Folklore Museum of

Chrisso 216Historic & Folklore

Museum (Alinda) 577History & Folklore

Museum of Kalamata 188

Lychnostatis Open Air Museum 469

Museum of Folk Art (Makrinista) 235

Museum of Greek Folk Art 91-2

Nautical & Folklore Museum (Pothia) 569

Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation Museum 161

Skopelos Town 663Fonias River 643food 47-52, 51 see also

individual locationsbudgeting 48festivals 236, 268glossary 782language 781-2

football 125, 747fortresses, see castles &

fortressesFourni Islands 602-4,

592-3Fry 537-9

GGaïos 694-5Galaxidi 221-3Galissas 357gardens, see parks &

gardensGavrio 346gay travellers, see LGBT+

travellersGennadi 527geography 759geology 759Gerolimenas 184Gialos 543-5Gialova 194-5Glossa 665-6gods & goddesses 744gorges, see canyonsGreek identity 746-8Greek language 18, 21,

780-4Grikos 585Gythio 177-8

HHalki (Cyclades) 388-9Halki (Dodecanese) 530-1Halkida 652Halkidiki 15, 276-83, 15Hania 485-91, 486-7health 767Heracles (Hercules) 745Hersonisos 469-70hiking 53, 55-6

Ainos National Park 706Alonnisos 672Amorgos 400Anafi 425Andros 349Anogi 713Athens 102Corfu 690Delphi 216-17Diafani 537

Evia 653-4, 656Folegandros 430Hania 488Hydra 339Ikaria 591Iti National Park 227Kalambaka 251Kalymnos 572Kardamyli 185Kastellorizo Village 540Kefallonia 709Kritsa 504Lesvos 634Litohoro 283Menalon Trail 166Mt Olympus 284Naxos 389Paleohora 497Paros 373, 378Pelion Peninsula 237Rethymno 471Samaria Gorge 494Sikonos 426-7Skiathos 661Skopelos 666Tilos 549Xanthi 297Zagorohoria 314, 315

historic buildings, see also castles & fortresses

Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion 333-4

Monolithos Castle 529Palace of the Grand

Master 515-16historic sites

Ancient Dion 284-5Atatürk House 264Castle of Faraklos 525Kastra 266Kastro – Medieval

Village 175Kerameikos 97Kritinia Castle 528Lycina tomb 540Mikro Horio 546Mohamed Ali

House 293-4Mystras 173-4Old Metropolis 285Old Xanthi 297Panagia Quarter 294Panathenaic Stadium

101Rotunda of Galerius 263Skiathos 660Skyros 677Street of the Knights 516Thermopylae 226

792

IND

EX H-L

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Turkish Quarter (Komotini) 300

Venetian Harbour 485history 726-41, see also

individual locationsausterity 740-1Balkan Wars 734Battle of Lepanto 224books 742Byzantine Empire 731Civil War 737-8independence 732-3Minoan civilisations 726-7Ottoman Rule 732Peloponnesian Wars 729Persian Wars 728-9Roman era 730-1WWI 735WWII 736-7

hitching 779holidays 769Homer’s Tomb 403Hora (Amorgos) 399-400Hora (Anafi) 424Hora (Andros) 347-9Hora (Astypalea) 564-6 Hora (Folegandros) 429-31Hora (Iraklia) 391Hora (Kimolos) 438Hora (Koufonisia) 394Hora (Kythira) 721-2Hora (Kythnos) 446Hora (Mykonos) 360-6, 362Hora (Naxos) 382-7, 384Hora (Patmos) 581-4 Hora (Samothraki) 641-3Hora (Schinousa) 393Hora (Serifos) 445-6Hora Sfakion 493-5Hora (Tinos) 350-2Horefto 237Horio 544horse riding

Cyclades 383Hydra 334Kefallonia 709Paros 376

horses 677, 761Horto 243hot springs 447Hristos Rahes 597Hydra 14, 332-9, 333, 14Hydra Town 333-9 334

IIcarus 745Ierapetra 507-8Igoumenitsa 320-1Ikaria 591-602, 592-3

activities 591travel to/from 592travel within 592-3

Ikonomou, Christos 751Iliad 155, 179, 295, 532,

542, 652, 655, 727, 729immigration 771Inousses 619insurance

car 777health 767

internet access 767internet resources 19, 59Ionian Islands 62 678-724,

679accommodation 678climate 678food 678highlights 679travel seasons 678

Ioannina 307-11, 308 Ios 402-6, 403Ioulida 449-50Iraklia 391-2Iraklio 455-62, 456-7Iraklio Wine Country 466-7Islamic tombs 297island hopping 12, 36-41,

see also boat travel, boat trips, cruising, ferry travel

Ithaki 711-14, 703Iti National Park 227-8itineraries 30-5, 41, 30, 31,

33, 34-5, 41, see also driving tours, walking tours, individual locations

JJewish heritage

Athens 1010Rhodes 517Thessaloniki 265

KKalamata 186-9, 187Kalambaka 251-3Kalavryta 205-7Kalymnos 567-73, 568Kamares 439-40Kamari 562-3Kamariotissa 640-1Kambos 595-6

Kampi 450Kampos 352Kanala 447Kapsali 722-3Kara 426Karavostamo 602Karavostasis 428-9Kardamyla 618Kardamyli 184-6Kardiani 352Karlovasi 611-13Karpathos 532-7, 533Karya 702Karystos 655-7Kasos 537-9Kassandra Peninsula 276-7Kastellorizo 539-42Kastellorizo Village 540-2Kastoria 290-1Kastraki 254Kastro 426, 441Kastro (Hora) 641Kastro (Sikinos) 426Katalimatsa 424Katapola 397-8Kato Zakros 506-7Kattavia 527-8Kavala 292-5kayaking

Kefallonia 709Milos 435Pelion Peninsula 237,

239Rina 570Skopelos 667Skyros 676Xanthi 297

Kazantzakis, Nikos 750Kea 448-50, 448Kedros 396Kefallonia 17, 702-11,

703, 17Kefalos Bay 562-3Kimolos 438, 433Kini 357Kissamos 491-2Kissos 237kitesurfing 54

Cyclades 378Naxos 388

Klissidi 424Knossos, see Palace of

KnossosKochilou 349Kokkari 611Kolimbithra 352Kolona 447Komotini 300-1Korissia 448-9

Koroni 191-2Kos 554-63, 556-7Kos Town 555-61, 558-9Koufonisi 394-5Koundouros 450Krithoni 577-8Kritsa 503-4Krokos 352Ktikados 352Kymi 654Kythira 719-24, 720Kythnos 445-8, 446

LLafkos 243laïka 751Lake Dhistos 655Lakka 696Lakki 576-7Lakonia 169-78Lamia 226-7Langada (Amorgos) 402Langada (Chios) 618language 18, 21, 780-4Larissa 228-9Lasithi Plateau 509Lavrio 139Lefkada 696-702Lefkada Town 698-9Lefkes 376Lefkos 535-6legal matters 767-8Leonidio 168-9Leros 573-8, 574Lesvos 623-34, 624-5LGBT+ travellers 768

Athens 123Mykonos 365Skala Eresou 632

libraries 236lighthouses 420

Hania 486Milos (Agia Kyriak) 244Rethymno 471

Limenaria 646Limenas 645-6Limeni 183-4Limni 654-5Limnos 635-40, 636Linaria 676-7Lindos 525-7Lionas 388Lipsi 587-8, 587Lipsi Village 587-8literature 750-1, see

also booksLitohoro 283-4Livadi (Astypalea) 566

793IN

DEX M

Livadi (Iraklia) 393Livadi (Serifos) 443-4Livadia (Andros) 349Livadia (Tilos) 546-8live music 126, 273, 752Lixouri 707-8loggerhead turtles 718, 762Loggos 695-6Loutra 447Loutra Edipsou 655Loutra (Therma) 643 Loutraki 665-6Loutro (Crete) 495Loutro (Koufonisia) 395

MMacedonia 257-95, 258Magazia 675-6magazines 764Maltas 426Mamma Mia! 239, 662,

663, 666, 667, 748Mandraki 550-2Manganari 404Mani, the 16, 16, 178-86,

181Manolates 611maps 6-7, 768Marathon 144-5Marathounda 546marble 372Margarites 478-9Maries 648maritime museums

Aegean Maritime Museum 361

Folk & Maritime Museum 438

Hellenic Maritime Museum 135-6

Maritime Museum (Oia) 416

Maritime Museum of Crete 488

Nautical & Folklore Museum (Pothia) 569

Nautical Historical Museum 222

marketsAthens 130Dimotiki Agora 560Eleonas Flea Market 128flea market

(Potamos) 723General Market 137Iraklio Central Market

461Kalambaka 251Kypseli Municiapal

Market 97Modiano Market 265

Monastiraki Flea Market 128

Varvakios Agora 129Women’s Cooperative

597Marmaro 618Maroula 447Mastihari 562Mastihohoria 621-2Matala 468-9measures 764medical services 767Mediterranean monk

seals 668, 671Megalo Horio 548-9Megalohori 420 Meganisi 699, 697Megas Gialos 358Melinda 633Menalon Trail 166Menetes 534Menites 349Merihas 445-6Mersini 393Mesathouri 349Messinia 186-95Messolongi 225-6Mesta 622-3Meteora 9, 247-50, 248, 9Methoni 192Metsovo 311-12Milies 241-3Milina 243Milos 432-8, 433Minoan civilisation 397,

402, 406Minoan culture 754-5mobile phones 18, 769Mohlos 504Molos 675-6Molyvos 17, 629-30, 17monasteries & convents

252Agathon Monastery 227Agios Panteleimon 549 Agiou Ioanni 531 Evia 654Filosofou Monasteries

166Holy Monastery of

Zoödohos Pigi 581 Kastrianis Monastery

450 Monastery of Kimisis

Theotokou 620Monastery of St John the

Theologian 581Monastery of St Peter &

St Paul 457Monastery of the Apoca-

lypse 581

Monastery of Viatadon 266

Monastery of Zyrgou 279Moni Agia Paraskevi 314Moni Agias Efpraxias 339Moni Agias Triados

5, 249Moni Agias Varvaras

Rousanou 249Moni Agios Nikolaos 340 Moni Agiou

Gerasimou 707Moni Agiou Mamas 539Moni Agiou

Nektariou 328Moni Agiou Nikolaou

(Meteora) 249Moni Agiou Nikolaou

(Xanthi) 297Moni Agiou Stefanou

250Moni Agiou Vissarion

246Moni Arkadiou 478 Moni Chrysopigi 442Moni Episkopis 426 Moni Evaggelistria 314Moni Faneromenis Moni Filanthropinon

308-9Moni Hozoviotissis

401, 25Moni Mega Spileo 206Moni Megalou Meteorou

250Moni Metamorfosis of

Sotiras 222Moni Osios Loukas 222Moni Panagias

Spilianis 550 Moni Preveli 484 Moni Profiti Ilia

(Amfissa) 220Moni Profiti Ilia

(Hydra) 339Moni Taxiarhou Mihail

Panormiti 545Moni Toplou 505-6Moni Varlaam 250Moni Zoödohou Pigis

426Mt Athos 281-2Prodromos Monastery

166Skiathos 660Skopelos 666Skyros Town 674Tourliani Monastery 366Timios Prodromos

Convent 191Zoodochos Pigi

Monastery 424

Monemvasia 175-7money 18, 19, 21, 766, 768monuments, see statues &

monumentsmosques, see also

Islamic tombsBayezit Mosque 303Fethiye Mosque 223-54Mosque of Gazi Hassan

Pasha 556Mosque of Kioutsouk

Hasan 488, 476-7Mosque of Süleyman 518Osman Shah

Mosque 246motorcycle travel 776-9Moudros 639-40mountain biking 368Mouressi 239Mt Athos 280-3Mt Dirfys 653Mt Fanari 390Mt Kynthos 370Mt Ohi 656Mt Olympus 284Mt Parnitha 144Mt Psiloritis 481, 482Mt Zeus 380, 389museums 24, see also

archaeological museums, art galleries & museums, Byzantine museums, folklore museums, maritime museums

Acropolis Museum (Athens) 22, 80-1

Ali Pasha Museum 309Alonnisos 668Archaeological Museum

of Poros 331Archaeological Museum

(Rhodes Town) 515Archaeological Musuem

(Volos) 230Art of Silk Museum 303Athens Pinall

Museum 73Benaki Museum at 138

Pireos St 97Benaki Museum of Greek

Culture 100Botsari Tower

Museum 223-4Chios Mastic

Museum 23, 621-2Christos Capralos

Museum 328Diachronic Museum of

Larissa 228Ecclesiastical Museum of

Milos 434

794

IND

EX M-P

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Electric Railways Museum 135

Ethnological Museum of Thrace 301

Geology Museum (Kastraki) 254

Gyzi Megaron 409Hellenic Children’s

Museum 87Herakleidon Museum

Building B 72-3Historical &

Ethnographical Museum 304

Historical Archives Museum of Hydra 334

Historical Museum of Crete 455

Industrial Gas Museum 100

Jewish Museum (Athens) 101

Jewish Museum of Rhodes 517

Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki 265

Kanellopoulos Museum 90Komboloi Museum 161Kotsanas Museum 200Megisti Museum 541Melina Merkouri

Cultural Centre 73Milos Mining

Museum 434Mineralogical

Museum 139Municipal Ethnographic

Museum 309Museum of Ancient

Eleutherna 23Museum of Greek

Popular Instruments 83Museum of Hellenic

Culture 251Museum of History &

Art 225Museum of Kalavryta

Holocaust 206Museum of the History

of the Olympic Games in Antiquity 200

Museum of the Macedonian Struggle 262-3

Museum of the Olive & Greek Olive Oil 169

Museum of Traditional Greek Costumes 188

National Archaeological Museum 92-5

National Historical Museum 87

Natural History & Mushroom Museum 251

Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 466

Noesis (science museum) 57

Numismatic Museum 101-2

Old Radio Museum 243Old Town Kardamyli 184Open Air Water-Power

Museum 167Pikoulakis Tower House

Museum 182Serpentin Organic

Garden 239-40Shadow Theatre Muse-

ums 178Sikelianos Museum 216Silversmithing

Museum 307Skiathos Town 658Skopelos Town 662-3Skyros Town 673-4Spetses Museum 340 St Valsamidis 571Teriade Museum 626Theophilos Museum 234Thessaloniki Museum of

Photography 264Tomato Industrial

Museum 420-1Traditional House of

Chalki 530Tsalapatas Brickworks

Museum 230-1Tsitsanis Museum 245Volcanological

Museum 553Volos Museum of the

City 230Vorres Museum 145War Museum

(Athens) 102War Museum (Lakki) 576Wine Museum 421

music 126, 273, 316, 751-3Mykonos 358-69, 359

accommodation 361-4activities 367beaches 366-7drinking & nightlife

364-6food 23, 364LGBT+ travellers 365shopping 366travel to/from 358, 360travel within 360

Myli 655Mylopotamos (Kythira) 722 Mylopotamos (Pelion

Peninsula) 240Mylopotas 404Myrina 635-7Myrthios 483Myrtos 508-9Mystras 172-5, 173mythology 382, 743-5Mytilini Town 626-8, 627

NNafpaktos 223-4Nafplio 159-64, 160Nanou 546Naoussa 376-8national parks &

reserves 760Ainos National Park 706Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli

National Park 302Evros Delta 302-3National Marine Park of

Alonnisos Northern Sporades 670

Northern Pindos National Park 312

Parnassos National Park 220

Valley of the Butterflies 529

nature 759-62Naxos 380-90, 381Neapoli 177newspapers 764Nikea 553-4Nimborios 545Nisyros 550-4, 551Northeastern Aegean

Islands 62, 589-649, 590

accommodation 589climate 589food 589highlights 590travel seasons 589

Northern Greece 61, 255-321, 256

accommodation 255climate 255food 255highlights 256travel seasons 255travel within 257

Northwest Tilos 549nudist beaches

Cyclades 357, 379Donousa 396Mykonos 367

OOdyssey, the 155, 156, 195,

309, 727Oedipus 745Oia 416-20, 44, 418, 419Old Alonnisos 669-71Old Perithia 687olive oil

factories 479museums 169presses 387, 665

olives 188, 51Olymbos 536Olympia 195-201Olympic Games 198-9,

198-9opening hours 768-9opera 753Orestiada 304-5Ormos Korthiou 349Orthodox Easter 11, 748, 11Otzias 450Ouranoupoli 279-80outdoor activities 17, 25,

53-6, 571ouzo 49, 575

PPalace of Knossos 14, 462-

6, 754, 463, 14palaces

Achilleion Palace 683-5Palace of Knossos 14,

462-6, 754, 463, 14Palace of St Michael &

St George 682Palekastro 506Paleohora 496-7Paleokastritsa 691Pali 554Paliki Peninsula 707-8Paliohora 724Palio Trikeri 244-5Panagia (Kasos) 539Panagia (Eastern Thasos)

648-9Panagia Paraportiani 361Pandeli 575-6panigyria festivals 594Panormo 479-80Panormos 352Papadiamantis,

Alexandros 658paragliding 188Parga 319-20Parikia 373-6, 374parks & gardens

Areopagus Hill 72Filopappou Hill 72

795IN

DEX P

-S Garden of Heroes 225Maravel Garden 481National Garden 83Pyli 246Saloon Park 58Zappeion 87

Paros 372-8, 372, 418passports 771Patitiri 667-9Patmos 11, 578-86, 579, 11Patra 202-5, 203Paxi 693-6, 694Pedi 546Pefki 654Pelion Peninsula 233-45,

234Peloponnese 60, 148-207,

150accommodation 148climate 148food 148highlights 150history 149travel seasons 148travel to/from 149wineries 154

Pera Gialos 564-6Perseus 745Petra 628philosophy 742-3phonecards 769-70photography 769Phylakopi 437Pigadia 532-4Pinakates 241Piraeus 135-8, 136Piskopio 349Pisses 450Pithara 349Plaka (Crete) 503Plaka (Cyclades) 435-6Plakias 482-3planning

airlines 40ATMs 21budgeting 19calendar of events 26-9cruising 42-6etiquette 21events 26-9family travel 57-9ferry travel 37-41festivals 26-9food & drink 47-52Greece basics 18Greece’s regions 60-2internet resources 19island hopping 36-41, 41itineraries 30-5, 41, 30,

31, 33, 34-5, 41repeat visitors 22-3travel seasons 18,

26-9, 37plants 759-60Platanias 243Platanistos 655Platanos 574-5Plato 743Platy 637-9Plimmyri 527Plomari 633Poli 539Pollonia 436-7Polyhnitos 634population 23Pori 394Poros 329-32, 330Posidonia 358postal services 764Potami 655Potamos 723Pothia 568-70Pouri 237-8Prasies 424Prassa 438Prespa Lakes 292-3Preveli 484Preveza 317-18Prodromos 386Psara 620Psili Ammos 393public holidays 769public phones 769-70Pyli 246Pylos 192-4Pyrgi 622-3Pyrgos (Santorini) 420Pyrgos (Tinos) 352Pythagoras 605Pythagorio 608-10

RRafina 138-9religion 370, 748rembetika 752reserves, see national

parks & reservesRethymno 470-5, 472Rhodes 512-29, 513

history 512-13travel to/from 513-14travel within 514

Rhodes Town 514-25, 516-17, 519

accommodation 518, 520-1

activities 518drinking & nightlife

522-3

entertainment 523food 521-2Old Town 11, 515-18,

516-17, 11shopping 523sights 515-18tourist information 524travel within 524-5

Rina 570rock climbing

Athens 104Kalymnos 572Leonidio 168Meteora 250

Roman sites, see archaeological sites, historic sites

Roukounas 424Rovies 654ruins

Ancient Delos 370-1Andros 348Paros 373Tinos 352

running 102

Ssafety 769

hitching 779road hazards 777-8

sailingAgios Nikolaos 498Lipsi Village 587-8

Samaria Gorge 12, 494, 13Sami 708-9Samos 604-13, 606-7Samothraki 640-3, 641San Michalis 358sanctuaries, see temples &

sanctuariesSantorini 406-24, 408,

419 budgeting 413history 406-7travel to/from 407travel within 407

Sappho 633Sapsila 585Saronic Gulf Islands 61,

322-42, 323climate 322highlights 323tours 324travel seasons 322travel to/from 324travel within 324-5

Schinousa 392-4sculpture 743sealife 762

seals 668, 671senior travellers 766Serifos 442-5, 443shopping 783, see also

markets, individual locations

Sifnos 439-42, 439Sigri 631Sikinos 426-8, 427Sithonian Peninsula 277-9Sitia 504-5Skala 579-81Skala Eresou 632-3Skala Kallonis 631Skala Kamirou 528Skala Marion 646Skala Potamia 648Skala Prinou 646Skala Sikameneas 628-9Skarkos 403Skaros Rock 409Skiathos 657-62, 659Skiathos Town 658-60skiing 56

Kalavryta 207Metsovo 312

Skopelos 662-7, 663Skopelos Town 662-5Skyrian horses 761Skyros 672-7, 673Skyros Town 673-5Small Cyclades 390-6, 391smoking 769snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnowboarding 56, 312Socrates 742Soufli 303Sougia 495-6Sparta 169-72, 170Spartan life 171spas

Hammam 102Loutra Edipsou 655northeastern Rhodes

525Spathi 450Spetses 339-42, 340Spili 481-2Sporades 650-77, 651

accommodation 650climate 650food 650highlights 651travel seasons 650

sports see basketball, football

stand-up paddleboarding 239

796

IND

EX S-Z

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

statues & monumentsAncient Lion of Kea 449Arch of Galerius 263Hadrian’s Arch 83Holocaust Memorial 101King Leonidas Statue

169Lykavittos Hill 101Martyrs’ Monument 206statue of Petrobey

Mavromichalis 182Stavros 713-14Stemnitsa 165Steni 653-4Stenies 349Sterea Ellada 210-19, 211St John the Divine 584Strapouries 349surfing 54Symi 542-6, 543synagogues

Beth Shalom 101Ets Hayim 101Kahal Shalom

Synagogue 517Monastirioton 265Veria 285Yad Lazikaron 265

syrmata 435Syros 353-8, 354

Ttap water 767Tarabados 352tax 769taxis 779Telendos Islet 572-3telephone services 18,

769-70temples & sanctuaries

Sanctuary of Artemis 145

Temple of Aphaia 324, 327

Temple of Aphrodite 724Temple of Apollo (Aegina

Town) 326Temple of Apollo

(Hora) 382Temple of Apollo

(Pythios) 450Temple of Athena 450Temple of Epicurean

Apollo 202Temple of Olympian

Zeus 73

Temple of Poseidon (Acropolis, Athens) 75, 78, 78

Temple of Poseidon (Cape Sounion) 143

Temple of Poseidon (Poros) 331

Thasos (Limenas) 645-6, 645

theme parks 458Theologos 648Theseus 745Thessaloniki 12, 259-76,

260-1, 12accommodation 268-9drinking & nightlife

272-3entertainment 273festivals & events 23,

268food 23, 269-71history 258itineraries 266-7, 266shopping 273-4sights 258-66tours 268tourist information 274travel to/from 274-5travel within 275-6walking tour 266-7, 266

Thessaly 228-54, 229Thira 420Thiva 222Tholaria 401-2Thrace 295-305, 296Tilos 546-9, 547time 18, 770Tinos 349-53, 350toilets 770tourist information 770tourist police 769tours 779, see also driving

tours, walking tours, individual locations

train travel 779Diakofto-Kalavryta

Railway 206To Trenaki 241train passes 772, 779

travel seasons 18, 26-9, 37, see also individual regions

travel to/from Greece 771-3

travel within Greece 773-9, 774-5

Trikala 245-7Triopetra 484Triovasalos 435-6Trypiti 435-6Tsagarada 239

Tsigouri 393Turkey, travel to/from 591turtles 718, 762

UUnesco World Heritage

Sites Ancient Delos 370-1Moni Dafniou 146Mystras 172-4Philippi Archaeological

Site 293

Vvacations 769Vaï 506Vale of Tembi 230Vari 358Vasiliki 700-1Vasilikos Peninsula 717Vathy (Ithaki) 712-13Vathy (Samos) 605-8, 608Vathy (Sifnos) 442Vathys 570vegetarian travellers 23,

50, 163, 175Veria 285-7visas 770visual arts 749-50Volax 352volcanoes 552-3Volissos 618-19Volos 229-33volunteering 770

Aegean Islands 603Skyros 677Sporades 661

Vourkari 450Vourkoti 348Vourliotes 611Vourvoulos 420Vromolithos 576Vrontados 618Vyros Gorge 184

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours

Acropolis (Athens) 78-9, 78-9

Ancient Agora (Athens) 86, 86

Athens 102-3, 103Thessaloniki 266-7, 266

waterskiing 54watersports 53-6

Hydra 334Kambos Beach 585

Skopelos Town 663weather 18, 26-9, 37, see

also individual regionswebsites, 19, 59weights 764Western Kalymnos 570-1

white-water rafting 54Xanthi 297Zagorohoria 314

wildlife 759-62windmills 361, 399, 477windsurfing 53-4

Cyclades 378Mykonos 367Naxos 383southeastern Rhodes

528Vasiliki 700

wine 50Kefallonia 704museums 421tours 105

wineries 22Cyclades 376Domaine

Spiropoulos 154Evia 658Gaia Wines 154Hania 488Iraklio Wine Country

466-7Ktima Bairaktaris 154Ktima Palivou 154-5Ktima Skouras 154Lafkiotis Winery 154Peloponnese 154Panormo 479Seméli Estate 154Sikinos 427Skyros 677

wolves 761women travellers 770work 770

XXanthi 295-9Xirokambos 577

Yyachting 44, see cruising

ZZagora 236-7Zagorohoria 17, 312-17, 313,

17, 54Zakros 506-7Zakynthos 714-19, 715Zakynthos Town 715-16Zaros 467

797

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kate MorganCrete Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Isabella NobleEvia & Sporades English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

Zora O’NeillNorthern Greece Zora visited Greece for the first time in 1995, and has been exploring new regions and new hiking trails ever since. A longtime Lonely Planet writer, she is also the author of All Strangers Are Kin, a travel memoir about studying Arabic. She lives in Queens, New York, in (not entirely coincidentally) a Greek neighbourhood, where frappés, feta and fresh herbs are plentiful.

Leonid RagozinNortheastern Aegean Islands Leonid studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga.

Kevin RaubCrete Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written more than 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, Italy and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Find him at www.kevinraub.net or follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Greg WardCentral Greece, Rhodes Since his youthful adventures on the hippy trail to India, and living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Dallas to Delphi. Visit his website, www.gregward.info, to see his favourite photos and memories.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kate ArmstrongDodecanese Kate Armstrong has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Australian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles.

Stuart ButlerIonian Islands Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest France with his wife and two young children.

Peter DragicevichCyclades After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Trent HoldenCrete A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Anna KaminskiCyclades Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative Ameri-can Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wander-ings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with crim-inal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles.

Vesna MaricAround Athens, Saronic Gulf Islands Vesna has been a Lonely Planet writer for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.

Hugh McNaughtanNorthern Greece A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant reviewing in his home town (Melbourne), he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – Mar 2020ISBN 978 1 78701 573 9© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSSimon RichmondAthens Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, Greece, India, Indonesia, Iran, Poland, Japan, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa, South Korea, Turkey and the USA. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram (simonrichmond) to see some of his photos and sketches. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Andrea Schulte-PeeversCrete Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.

Andy SymingtonPeloponnese Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and nonfiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd