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    TIBETAN TREATMENT CHOICES IN THE CONTEXT OF

    MEDICAL PLURALISM IN THE DARJEELING HILLS

    BARBARA GERKE

    Tibetan medicine1 is part of the medical syncretism found among communities

    living in the Darjeeling Hills, an area nestling the foothills of the IndianHimalayas of West Bengal. The multi-ethnic societies, comprised of people

    who have mostly migrated to this region since British colonial times, present an

    eclectic mix of the neighbouring societies of Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet, and

    lowland Bengal. This paper2 presents ethnographic examples from my doctoral

    fieldwork (20042006), carried out in the two major urban centres of the Hills,

    Kalimpong (altitude 4,200 ft.) and Darjeeling (altitude 7,000 ft.). In the course

    of this paper I analyse how Tibetans make their treatment choices between

    varieties of available healing modalities. How do they go about finding the

    suitable medical and/or ritual practitioner to treat their illness within the array

    of pluralistic medical practices available in the Hills? The ethnographic

    examples show that Tibetans freely choose between biomedicine,3 Tibetan

    1 By Tibetan medicine here I mean the institutionalised versions of the otherwise

    largely heterogeneous body of Tibetan medical knowledge practised at the Men-Tsee-

    Khang and Chakpori medical clinics in India.2 I am grateful to Sienna Craig and Stephan Kloos for their valuable comments and to

    Geoffrey Samuel for his feedback on an earlier version of this paper. 3 I avoid the term Western medicine because of its ethnocentric character and use the

    term biomedicine in its widest sense, being aware that it is not a unified medical

    system and is open to local interpretations. Tibetans do not look at biomedicine

    necessarily as Western medicine, but call it Indian medicine or rgya gar gyi sman,

    lit. medicine from India. This is a widespread term among Tibetans in India, and is

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    BARBARA GERKE

    338

    medicine, and other available medical systems, consult Hindu as well as

    Buddhist diviners, and attend rituals in Buddhist monasteries as well as in

    Hindu temples. Popular perceptions of illness causation and medical efficacy

    strongly influence Tibetans in their treatment choices. In pinning down the

    larger trajectories that influence contemporary modes of Tibetan treatment

    choices in the Hills, I argue that biomedicine, religious practice, ritual healing

    and divinations are deeply interrelated in this process, and, despite theirepistemological contradictions, do not oppose or compete with each other in

    practice.4 The processes of making treatment choices are flexible and

    pragmatic; they accommodate parallel treatment in modern and traditional

    forms of medicine and at the same time accommodate larger cosmological ideas

    about spirit-causation, karma (las), obstacles (bar chad), merit (bsod nams), and

    the power of blessing (bying rlabs). This situation is quite contrary to the

    common view that there is a growing separation between medicine and religion,

    especially in urban areas. This perspective is particularly prevalent among

    Tibetan communities in China, as studied by Adams (e.g. 2001, 2002), Craig

    (forthcoming), Janes (e.g. 1999a, 1999b, 2001), and others. Here, I seek to

    simply note the differences between the Chinese and Indian contexts; my

    arguments only pertain to India.

    used in Dalhousie (Samuel 2001:250) and in Dharamsala (Prost 2004:115); in

    Dharamsala the term also includes Indian $yurvedic medicine (Prost 2004:115).

    Likewise, in China,biomedicine is often called rgya sman, where rgyareferes to rgya

    nag (China) or tang sman, a combined Chinese-Tibetan word meaning party

    medicine.4

    Mona Schrempf in her paper on health-seeking behaviour of Amdo Tibetansappearing in a forthcoming volume (Medicine between Science and Religion:

    Explorations on Tibetan Grounds) documents similar cases in Eastern Tibet, where

    biomedical and Tibetan spiritual therapeutic treatment options are easily combined.

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    BARBARA GERKE

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    mountain cults (except Mt. Kanchendzonga, prominent in Sikkim), a

    phenomena central to the creation of Tibetan identity across the Himalayan

    enclaves (Ramble 1997:406).

    Since the 1990s, with the growing influence of globalisation in the area,

    consumerism has set in as a principal factor of peoples lives. Within the rising

    Indian market economy, Tibetans have done well with their business skills.

    Their earlier refugee and trading experience, as well as the internationalattention and the marketing of Tibetan Buddhism, makes it easier for them to

    migrate between places and take advantage of globalisation.

    Tibetans in the different social arenas of the Hill societies have shown an

    often effortless and unconscious assimilation of intercultural realities, which

    have led to an ability among many Hills Tibetans (and other ethnic groups for

    that matter) to move between various social and political settings with

    considerable ease. Therefore, being a Tibetan in the Hills does not conform to

    any straightforward, unitary definition. Today, it primarily means having

    Tibetan ancestors, adhering to various sorts of popular Tibetan Buddhism, but

    living a modern Nepali-Indian urban life-style. My studies differ from other

    Tibetan identity studies based mainly in or near Dharamsala (for example,

    Klieger 2002; Korom 1997; Prost 2004), in that they focus on Tibetan societies

    outside the Dharamsala enclave in a region that is not dominated by a Tibetan

    government-centred administration and massive Tibet tourism. The multi-ethnic

    variations in the Darjeeling Hills and a strong presence of other non-Tibetan

    Buddhist communities (for example, Sherpa, Yolmo, Gurung, Tamang), merge

    into a kaleidoscopic ethnic mix on the roads of Darjeeling and Kalimpong.

    They all mingle in all kinds of silhouettes of society and often present and live

    multiple identities. Just as this scene is distinct from life in Dharamsala, so, too,is it different than other, more isolated Tibetan settlements across India, where

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    TREATMENT CHOICES IN THE DARJEELING HILLS

    357

    the younger generations of Tibetans in India tend to have first resource to

    biomedicine. Older patients, however, are often more comfortable with Tibetan

    medicine (McKay 2007:26). These are general observations. No major

    quantitative studies have been conducted on how many Tibetans actually use

    Tibetan medicine or biomedicine and why.33 All we have at this point are

    observations by various researchers and a few documented individual case

    studies.

    Despite Men-Tsee-Khangs overall rapid growth and success in India,34

    many Tibetans in the Darjeeling Hills were not convinced of the efficacy of

    Tibetan medicine. Young Tibetans had especially little knowledge of Tibetan

    medicine. In 2004, I questioned twenty-one class XII students at the Central

    School for Tibetans in Kalimpong using bi-lingual questionnaires (Tibetan and

    English). Seven students had never taken Tibetan medicine, nine once or

    twice, and four occasionally. For none was Tibetan medicine the regular

    choice of medication when ill. Those who had taken Tibetan medicine thought

    the advantage was the the lack of side-effects. At the Dalai Lamas birthday

    celebration the same students prepared various exhibits of Tibetan culture at

    33 Craig Janes mentions follow-up case study interviews with fifty-six patients in Lhasa.

    His general consensus is that Tibetans pragmatically and frequently mix biomedicine

    and Tibetan medicine. On the study he comments, albeit briefly, that slightly less than

    one-half (48%) of the case study patients had used Tibetan medicine exclusively for the

    present diagnosis and treatment, and did so at the advice of family members and friends

    (38%), because of a strong faith in the efficacy of Tibetan medicine (34%), and

    reluctance to use biomedicine (18%) (Janes 2002:279). There is also a forthcoming

    study by Stephan Kloos, which involves a questionnaire survey with about seventy

    patients at various Men-Tsee-Khang and other Tibetan clinics (Kloos forthcoming).

    34 The number of branch clinics is now 50, with nine new branches having opened

    since 2000.

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    BARBARA GERKE

    374

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