geriatrics wood crafts and intro

8/3/2019 Geriatrics Wood Crafts and Intro

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INTRODUCTION: |GERIACTRICS}

Geriatrics literally means the care of old persons. Practically, geriatrics combines two elements:

gerontology and chronic disease. Gerontology refers to the study of aging. It addresses all aspects of how

aging affects individuals

physically, socially, psychologically, and economically. Geriatrics adapts thisknowledge to improve the provision of care to older persons. Geriatricians must know how diseases

present in older persons and how to manage them. Because one of the hallmarks of aging seems to be a

loss of reserve capacity, and hence a loss of ability to respond to stress, many older persons may fail to

exhibit the characteristic symptoms associated with a given disease. Most symptoms represent the body's

response to the external stress of a disease, which may be dampened with age. Moreover, most older

persons suffer from several chronic conditions, making it often difficult to distinguish clearly a new

symptom in the context of many existing problems. Geriatric diagnosis thus requires a substantial degree

of insight and subtlety.

Geriatric management is likewise complicated by the presence of multiple, simultaneously inter-active

problems, which often reach across several domains of life. One must treat not only the immediate illness

in the context of several others, but also address their financial and social consequences. Inadequate

income may make it difficult to buy needed medications. Housing may need to be altered toaccommodate physical limitations. Social support may be needed to provide both direct assistance and

social stimulation.

Geriatrics overlaps substantially with chronic-disease care. Most of the illnesses older people suffer are

chronic. According to C. Hoffman, D. Rice, and H.-Y. Sung (1996), approximately 95 cents of every health

care dollar spent on older persons goes toward a chronic illness. However, the same study notes that

chronic disease is, in fact, predominant in virtually all agesover two-thirds of the money spent on health

care in this country goes toward chronic illness. Yet, somehow, the medical care system has failed to

adapt to this epidemiological reality. Health care continues to be organized as it was during the era of

acute disease. A substantial contribution to public health would be to translate this fundamental

epidemiological observation into a more appropriate system of health careone that changed the focus

of care to extend over longer periods, that shifted attention from single clinical interactions to episodes ofcare, and that created a more meaningful participatory role for consumers of care.

Perhaps the most dreaded manifestation of aging is dementia. Much has been learned about dementia. It

is no longer viewed as an inevitable consequence of aging, although its incidence is likely in very old age.

While new drugs are constantly being developed, no effective treatments are yet available. Some

currently available agents appear to be able to slow the progression somewhat, but their overall

contribution is still uncertain.

Much of geriatrics involves the intersection of medicine and long-term care. For some time, these have

been viewed as separate areas of endeavor, responsible to medical and social models, respectively.

Here too, epidemiology has a valuable insight to contribute. Most older persons needing long-term care

suffer from serious problems that have led to the loss of physical and/or cognitive abilities. The underlying

conditions often require close medical attention. Thus, those in long-term care usually need more, not

less, medical attention.

The goal of geriatric care is to maximize the functioning of patients. Function can be viewed as the end

result of several factors. The first of these is the appropriate treatment of medical conditions. The first

maxim of geriatrics is to treat the treatable. This step is not always easy. One of the most difficult

differential diagnoses in medicine may be distinguishing pathological change from that simply associated

with aging. Good treatment is necessary but not sufficient. The next step is to recognize the potential

effects of environment, both physical and social. Much of the modern health care institution (hospital and

nursing home) actually serves to dehabilitate patients, especially those who are most vulnerable. The


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environment is alien, the timetable suits the schedules of the providers of care, and individual patient

identity is easily lost. Something as simple as a hospital bed with bedrails may create a new series of

barriers for a frail older person. It is hardly surprising that delirium is common among older persons in

hospitals. Perhaps most pernicious of all, the pressures for efficient care prompt staff to do many tasks for

older patients, thereby creating an atmosphere of learned dependence. At the very time when they should

be fostering self-reliance, institutions encourage dependency. As the advocate for vulnerable populations,

public health has a duty to alter this inappropriate and dangerous system.

One of the most successful accomplishments of geriatrics has been the demonstration of the value of

comprehensive geriatric assessment, or, more specifically, geriatric evaluation and management. The

latter term is used to emphasize the importance of adequate ongoing involvement until the problems

uncovered are sufficiently managed. A long series of studies is now available to demonstrate the benefits

of such interventions. This approach has been applied in various settings, from inpatient situations to

home assessments. The results have been generally positive, including improvements in function and

reduction in subsequent medical costs. In public health terms, this assessment represents a variation on

secondary prevention.

Geriatrics offers other opportunities for prevention. Primary prevention usually focuses on such elements

as immunizations, especially for influenza and pneumococcal disease; but other risk factors can be

addressed. The role of estrogens is still being explored. They seem to have a positive effect on delaying

osteoporosis and heart disease, although they do carry an added risk for gynecological cancers. Exercise

is widely touted as beneficial for both physical and social well-being. Smoking cessation is beneficial well

into old age. Efforts have been made to prevent falls with only modest success. The most preventable

problem among older persons is iatrogenic disease. Multiple medications, which transform older patients

into living chemistry sets, are probably the most ubiquitous threats. Mention has already been made of

the dangers of institutionalization. Misdiagnosis, including both overtreatment and undertreatment, is a

recurrent problem.

Public health has an obvious stake in the health of older persons. They are the ones who are most likely

to be ill. They are the most rapidly growing segment of the population and represent some of the most

difficult elements of care. Approaches that are successful with older persons should be readily adaptable

to serving other subgroups. Because chronic disease is endemic among older persons, they provide theimpetus to develop a more effective and appropriate approach to health care, an approach that has broad

applications in the face of changing demographics and a new epidemiological reality.

Stars and Stripes


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Materials:

" Wood and " Wood1"x 2" Wood Stake1" Mini Wood Stars (6)Scrape Piece of GrapevineAntique Maple Gel Stain

Palette:Straw Navy Blue Tomato Red

White

Cutting Instructions:

" Wood: Flag" Wood: Frame, heart, and star1"x 2" Wood: Cut 3ft. For Stake

Wood Burning Instructions:

I always do my wood burning line work before I start to base paint my project. If paint getsin any of the burned areas don't worry, I always go back over the lines with my woodburning tool to remove any unwanted paint after I'm done painting.

1. The stripes on the flag are burned2. The Frame around the "Stars and Stripes" Saying is burned3. The White Frame in the middle of the heart is burned

Painting Instructions

Base:1. Tomato Red: Stripes, and frame of heart


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2. Navy Blue: Boarder of frame3. White: Stars, stripes on flag, inside of frame and inside of heart4. Straw: Big Star5. Antique Maple Gel Stain: Stake

Spattering:

You can use a spattering tool or an old toothbrush. Dip the bristles in paint, point the bristleend of the brush toward the project, and pull your finger across the bristles to spatter thepaint.6. Navy Blue: Spatter all white areas.

Finishing:

7. Tomato Red or Red Technical pen: Add words to sign and heart8. Sand all wood edges9. Stain all exposed wood edges with Antique maple gel stain

Assembly:

Gluing: (Use wood glue)10. Glue all wood pieces together (refer to pattern for placement)

11. Glue flag and star to stake12. Staple grapevine to sign, and around stake

Nailing:

I like to nail all the pieces that are glued; it keeps it from coming apart and adds a primitivelook.


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LadyLiberty

Materials:

DMC colors:

221 Stripe Outlines, Nose

310 Eyes, Lashes, Mouth, Word413 Star

Deco Art Americana colors:

Lamp Black............EyesCranberry Wine.......Nose and 3 Stripes (Each outside stripe and the center stripe.)Midnight Blue..........Star

Read through the directions before starting so that you will understand the instructionseasier and enjoy making your patterns!

Miss Liberty Stitchery: Cut two pieces of Muslin 7 3/4"W x 10 1/2"H. (This will also allow forshrinkage.) Tea Stain using 8-10 regular size teabags per two cups of boiling water. Addsome instant coffee or filtered regular coffee to make as dark as you want it. Let hang todry.

When the muslin is completely dry. Trace around the doll pattern template on one piece ofmuslin using the fine pigment pen. Then trace the stitchery design, centering the twodifferent sections appropriately under the traced pattern. Tape unto a window or use a lightbox to see through the material. Leave an opening at the bottom. Turn, stuff and close theopening with a whipstitch of matching thread.

Stitch the design using a backstitch with four strands of floss.

DMC colors are:

221 Stripe Outlines, Nose

310 Eyes, Lashes, Mouth, Word

413 Star


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Color in the Stitchery, using a dry paintbrush.

The Deco Art Americana colors are:

Lamp Black............Eyes

Cranberry Wine.......Nose and 3 Stripes (Each outside stripe and the center stripe.)

Midnight Blue..........Star

Dry Brushing Directions: Lightly dip the end of the dry Scrubber Brush (These type ofpaintbrushes have harder white bristles) into the paint. Blot well on a paper towel and brushback and forth some, removing most of the paint. Color areas inside stitching lines by usingsmall strokes, like you would a crayon.

Finish the doll by adding her hair and crown. Cut three pieces of the jute, each 8 1/2" long.Attach to the top of head, around the seam area, by sewing or using a little hot glue.Unravel each strand of jute on each side. Use a little bit more hot glue to style. Trim any

ends if needed.

Cut out the crown template and trace around it on a sheet of rusty tin. Cut out withscissors, being careful because the tin can be very sharp. Hole punch in three places asshown on the template. Using some of the cross-stitch floss, sew unto head by going in andout of the holes once. When you pull the floss tight, the crown will go against the head. Tieoff. For extra reinforcement, you can also use some hot glue up inside after sewing.

Keep away from children, decorative purposes only, because of the rusty tin.


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"OhMyStars"

Materials:

Wood = 1/2" plywood for body and wings Wood = 3/4" pine scrap for heart 19 ga. wire Two 3/4" screws Two 1" screws 1 1/2" grapevine star sawtooth hanger staple gun tacky glue

1/2" block stencil for wings 1/2" star stencil for wings Stencil Brush

Directions:

Trace angel body and wings pattern onto 1/2" plywood. Trace heart onto 3/4" pine. Paint

sides and fronts of each piece as follows:

Angel Face: FleshtoneAngel Body: Prussian BlueWings: ParchmentHeart: Sonoma Wine

After paint dries, sand sides and front edges of all wood pieces heavily and surface lightly.


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Miss Helga Herbs

Materials:

AccentCountryColor Paints:Adobe Wash - Bottom of dress, wings, legs, stripes on cheeks.Light Flesh - FaceBlack Green - DressBarn Red - Heart, cheeks, mouth.Soft Black - Eyes, linework.Tumbleweed - Checkerboard on bottom section of dress.Fingerberry Red - Stripes on legs.

Supplies:

Checkerboard stencil10" grapevine wreathOne 'N Only - brown fanci fiber hair19 gauge wire3" grapevine basket (hat)Small flowersSpanish mossSponge Brush

#1 Liner brushDrillGlueHot glue gun" pine for body, heart"pine for wings

Two 9" - dowel rods for legs

Directions:

Cut and trace pattern onto wood.

1. Basecoat all parts


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Light Flesh - faceBlack green - dressAdobe Wash - bottom of dress, legs and wingsBarn Red - heart

2. Stripe legs with Fingerberry Red. checkerboard the bottom of dress with

Tumbleweed.3. Letter and dot letters with end of a 1" sponge brush using Adobe Wash.4. Dry brush cheeks Barn Red. Dot eyes Soft Black.5. Stripe cheeks Adobe Wash using a #1 liner.6. Drill holes. Attach legs with 19 gauge wire.7. Nail on heart/8. Sand off all edges.9. Antique with Apple Butter Brown.10.Glue on hair.11.Wood glue on wings and drill holes in wings for hanging.12.Staple on basket to head and glue on moss and flowers.13.Tear apart a 10" grapevine wreath and staple it around Helga.

This line drawing needs to be enlarged to fit an 8" by 14" paper.


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24. Float on the edges of the apron with AC Flesh.

25. When all the paint is dry, put two 1 inch sawtooth hangers on the back of Anne. Place them in

the shoulder areas.

26. Float around the edges and in the middle of the metal part of the spade with Hippo Grey.

Using a #12 flat brush, dry brush on the metal part of the spade with Hippo Grey. See pattern orphoto.

27. Using a liner brush and Charcoal paint, make a line down the middle of the metal part of the

spade.

28. Float the bottom of the handle of the spade in Black Green.

29. Float across the top of the handle in Seminole Green.

30. Using a liner brush and Light Ivory Paint, dry brush a little across the top of the handle. See

photo or pattern.

31. Float the bottom of the hands in Dark Flesh and dry brush across the top in Light Ivory. Notethat the thumbs point in the same direction, so the floating and dry brushing will be the opposite on

each hand.

32. Screw the hooks into the spade.

33. Glue the hands on to the spade. See pattern for positions.

34. Glue the spade to the body.

35. Glue the heart to the apron.

36. Using an old, medium bristled toothbrush, splatter the whole piece with Black. Clean and dry

the toothbrush and splatter each piece with Light Ivory. Let dry.

37. Spray with a matte spray after the glue has dried, if desired.

38. Glue on the hair in two rows, alternating the pieces. Glue on the blue rag ribbon. Wait until

the glue has dried on the hair before any trimming.

39. For extra strength, nail all pieces together.

40. Sign, date and enjoy!

Supplies needed to make Raggedy Anne Garden Tool Holder

Small liner brush

Four 1 sponge brushes

An old scruffy/stippler brush

#12 floater/flat brush


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#6 floater/flat brush

An old medium bristle toothbrush board & pine board (or precut wood kit)

Oil base stain (I use Early American, by Ace)

Wood sealer, if desired

Burgundy or Wine colored broadcloth ripped into twenty 1 x 4 pieces with a knot tied in the

middle. Blue broadcloth ripped into one piece of 1 x 4 and a knot tied in the middle.

3 hooks (shoulder hooks 1 overall length)

Fine sanding disc or fine sandpaper

Tack cloth

Tracing paper

Transfer paper Stylus

Wood glue

Scissor

Clear acrylic matte spray, if desired

Pencil

Hammer Two 1 sawtooth hangers

Small nails or brads (optional)

Water bin

Paper towels

Paint palette


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Mint Julep GreenHauser Dark GreenWarm Black

INSTRUCTIONSBasecoat

Lt. Buttermilk: SnowmanWhite: White section of candy caneCountry Red: Red section of candy caneFrench Grey Blue Lt.: Tassel and brim section of hatArbor Green: Scarf and center section of hatCanyon Orange: Carrot nose

Shadingand Highlighting

Uniform Blue: Shade left side of candy caneWarm White: Line on right side of candy caneMink Tan: With a light float, shade snowmanWarm White: Highlight snowman

Delane's Cheek Color: Stipple cheeksHilite Flesh: Dots on cheeksBurnt Sienna: Shade carrot noseMoon Yellow: Highlight nose with thin lineWarm White: Extra highlight on noseWarm Black: Eyes and mouth linesWarm White: Highlight eyesUniform Blue: Shade blue portion of hat and tasselSoft Blue: Stipple highlight on blue portion of hatWarm White: Stipple a small area on Soft Blue for extra highlightMint Julep Green: Lines on scarf and green portion of hatWarm White: In a small area, stipple extra highlight on hat and scarf

DETAILS005 Micron Pen: All outlining

FINISHINGKrylon Matte Spray: Spray piece with several light coats527 Glue: Glue buttons to snowman's stomach


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WoodenLuminaries

Materials:

Note: This material list is for one luminary.

One 3-foot 1" x 6" pine board (actual size 3/4" x 5 1/2")

1 1/2" finishing nails

Waterproof carpenter's glue

Glue stick (optional)

Exterior polyurethane gloss

One large-mouth 1-quart canning jar

One candle

Recommended Tools

Table saw

Power drill

Scroll saw or coping saw

1. Cut all the pieces from a 3-foot 1" x 6" (3/4" x 5 1/2") pine

board.

It's best to make these luminaries from 3/8"-thick boards because

they look more proportional. (Plane the board down to this

thickness before cutting the pieces.)

If making from optional 3/8" stock, cut the sides 4 5/8" wide.

However, if you want to use regular 3/4" stock, make the sides 5"

wide.


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In either case, the base of the lantern is 4 1/4" square.

2. Select a side free of knotholes for the front of the luminary.

Choose one of the patterns provided, or create one of your own.

Photocopy the patterns at 200%, or draw them using the grid to

help. Then trace or glue (with a glue stick) the design onto the

wood. (Position the design about 1/4" to the left of center.)

3. Cut out the pattern with a scroll or coping saw.

4. Glue and nail the sides together with 1 1/2" finishing nails. Drill

pilot holes so you don't split the boards.

5. Sand the sides. We suggest rounding off all the edges for a softer

look. Apply two or three coats of exterior polyurethane gloss inside

and out, lightly sanding between each coat.

6. Put a candle inside a large-mouth 1-quart canning jar and set the

jar inside the box. Now find a nice spot for your luminary and let it

warm up your front porch or backyard!


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should be 1/2" wide, 1 1/2" from the left side (and 1 1/4" from the right side). This

groove should be 3/16" deep. Once you have cut this groove, cut out an additionalniche to the left of the main groove (the same depth). The niche accommodates the

locking mechanism when the box is locked. This additional niche should be 1/2" wide

and should cut in 1/8" from the lock end (see diagram).

The lock end of the lid needs an additional piece of wood to beadded to it so that it matches the other sides. This "lid end"

should be 1/2" (13 mm) wide, 1/2" thick and 4" (102 mm) long.

The ends of this length should be cut at a 45 degree angle, sothat (when attached to the lid) the lid end fits into the box

neatly (see diagram). Once the lid end has been cut to size, rout

out a lip on the underside that is 1/8" (3 mm) deep and 1/8" wide. This allows the lid

end to match up with the lock end of the lid. In addition to this lip, rout out anadditional niche to accommodate the locking mechanism. This additional niche should

be 1" from the left (when looking at the underside of the lid end -- and the

measurement is based on the narrower length) to 1 1/4" from the right and should cut

1/4" from the inside edge.

Once the main box is dry, it is time to rout out the groove for

the decorative strip that runs around its middle. This groove is

cut using a 14 degree, dovetail router bit. The use of a dovetailbit means that the groove has a cross profile of a wedge, and

thus holds the cocobolo strip in place. This is important because

the lock end cocobolo strip is not glued in place, as it must befree to slide (without falling out!). Cut the groove at a height of

7/8" to 1 1/4" from the bottom of the box, to a depth of 1/4".

The end result should be a groove that is 3/8" wide at the surface (but considerablewider -- 1/2" -- further into the depth of the side). Rout this groove on all four sides of

the box.

Once this groove has been routed out, it is time to neaten up each corner of the

groove. Using a chisel, increase the size of each groove end to a height of 1/2" (13mm) (basically, the same width as the groove is at its deepest. This widening should

only be done for 1/2" in from each corner. This means that the square birch corner

pieces should just fit into each of the widened corners.

Now cut the two side strips of cocobolo to the correct cross profile. These should be

wedge-shaped (see diagram) so that they will slot into the grooves made above. At

this time, also cut the two end strips to the same profile. If you have a table saw, this

is certainly the easiest way to cut these strips, although you can also plane them down

to the correct profile (or even rout them). Test that the strips will slide into the middle


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grooves. While they should be a reasonably tight fit, don't make these strips too tight a

fit -- otherwise the end piece won't slide freely.

Before you glue the strips into place, sand down the main box, and round off thecorners a little. Then, glue the two side strip pieces and the non-locking end strip

piece into the correct grooves. At the same time, glue three of the corner pieces intoplace. The one corner piece that should not be glued into place is the one at the right

hand end of the locking groove (when facing this end).

Slide the final (locking end) strip into place and glue the final corner piece onto this

strip. Be very careful to make sure that the glue only makes contact with the corner

piece and locking end strip, as this piece must be able to slide out freely. Leave to dry

overnight.

Once dry, remove the locking end strip (with the attached corner piece) and apply wax

to the groove. This will help the strip to slide more easily. Then, replace the strip backinto the groove and ensure that it is pushed in all the way.

Glue and screw the locking mechanism to the inside edge of the sliding cocobolo by

placing the locking mechanism wood in the space that you routed out for it in thelocking end piece. The locking mechanism should be attached at a distance of 1 1/2"

from the left hand side (when looking at this from the front, not the inside) and should

stick up proud of the locking end by a height of 1/8" (3 mm). Double check that yourparticular version of this box agrees with this position -- it should position the locking

piece in the niche cut in the lid, NOT the main groove cut in the lid. When applying

the glue, take care to ensure that it only makes contact with the cocobolo and thelocking mechanism (otherwise, the sliding piece may be glued fast to the box by

mistake).

Once this is dry, test out the mechanism. The box should be locked when the locking

end middle strip is pushed in all the way, and should be unlocked (so that you can

slide the lid out) when this strip is pushed to the right (i.e. juts out from the side).


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Japanese Style Lamp

Construction

Wood Type: Cherry.

Description Qty Width Thickness Length

Legs 4 1 1/2" 3/4" 17"

Inner verticals 8 1/4" 1/4" 14"

Inner horizontals 8 1/4" 1/4" 5 1/2"

Inner cross beams 8 1/4" 1/4" 3 1/2"

Top 1 7 1/2" 1/2" 7 1/2"

Lamp connector 1 1" 1/4" 6"

Triangles 8 1/2" 1/4" 1/2"

Building the inner frames

1. Take the eight inner verticals and cut a niche out of each

vertical 2" to 2 1/2" from the top and bottom of each length.This niche should be 1/8" deep (see diagram).

2. Take the eight inner horizontals and cut a niche out of each horizontal 1/2" to 3/4"

from each end. Again, the niche should be 1/8" deep.

3. For each of the eight horizontals, cut each end to a 45 degree angle so that the

shorter side is the side that has the niches in them from step 2. (See diagram).


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4. You can now join the verticals and horizontal pieces together at the point where the

niches have been made, forming a rectangle with protruding ends. Glue this unit

together.

5. Glue the two inner cross beams into the rectangle (step 4), spaced 1"

apart form one end of the triangle (see diagram). Clamp overnight.

6. Once the inner frames are glued, attach the rice paper to the inside of

each rectangle (this is the longest dies (i.e., without the 45 degree taper

showing). To glue the rice paper onto the frame, lay the rice paper down on a flat

surface, smear glue onto the frame and then press down on the paper. Place several

books on top of the frame and leave overnight until glued. Then trim the rice paper to

fit.

Building the legs

7. Cut the legs to shape (see diagram). Note that the inside curve of theleg begins 3 1/2" from the bottom of the plank. Any higher and it would

interfere with the attachment of the inner frame.

8. Once cut to shape, cut out two niches, 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep, 2" to 2

1/4" from the top and 11 3/4" to 12" from the top, on the inside of eachleg. This niche will be used to connect the inner panels to the legs. Check

these measurements carefully, in case you made any slight variation to

the previous cuts/dimensions.

9. Sand the legs, rounding their edges a little.

Joining the frame to the legs

10. Before joining the panels to the legs, cut out eightsmall triangles of wood, 1/4" thick, with two

(perpendicular) sides 1/2" long.

11. Glue the inner panels into the leg niches. Use the small

triangles cut out in step 11 to strengthen each joint (see diagram).The best way toclamp the lamp is to use rubber bands or string.

12. Once the glue is dry, attach the lamp connector to the base of the two of the inner

frames using small, thin screws. However, before attaching this piece to the frame,

drill a hole for the bulb holder and wire the unit.


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Wine Rack Plans

Materials:Attached wine rack pattern

2 lengths, 24" x 10" x 3/4" surfaced lumber6 lengths, 23" x 2 1/2" x 3/4" surfaced lumber24 8 guage, 1 1/2" flat-head screws

stain, paint or clear varnish2 paintbrushestracing paper

transfer paperhard penciljigsaw or coping saw

coarse and medium sandpapersanding blockruler

drill and 1/16", 1/8" and countersink drill bitsscrewdriver

Preparingthe Wood


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1. Using tracing paper and a pencil, trace the patterns of thescallop-edged racks and the heart-shaped cut-out from the master

pattern.

2. Using transfer paper and hard pencil, transfer the scallop shapeonto the six racks. Then transfer the heart shapes to the end

panels, placing them in the positions shown.

3. Using the jigsaw, cut out the scalloped edges.

4. Within the heart shape to be cut out, drill an access hole greaterthan the width of the jigsaw blade. Place the blade of the jigsaw inthis hole and carefully cut out the heart shape.

5. Wrap coarse sandpaper around the sanding block and sand theedges of the end panels so that the square outside edges are

slightly beveled.

6. Sand all surfaces completely smooth with medium sandpaper.

Assemblingthe Wine Rack

1. Following the dimensions shown, mark the positions of the racks

on the end panels, noting that the racks are spaced 8" apart

vertically and the top of the upper rack is positioned 1/4" from thetop edge of the end panel. The outer faces of all racks should be

flush with the vertical edges of the end panels.

2. Mark the positions of the screws on both the end panels and the

ends of the racks. The center of each screw should be 3/8" from the


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y Take the large piece of wood that is 1/2" thick - 3.5" wide and 36" long.Measuring from one end of the board, mark a line at 6" from that end and then at12" from that same end.

y Carefully saw through the wood along these lines. (You will now have two 6" long

pieces - the sides and one 24" piece - the base.)y Take the larger piece of basswood that is 3" wide and 24" long. Measuring from

one end of the board, mark lines every 3" from that end all the way across theboard.

y Turn the wood over and do the same thing on the other side measuring from thesame end of the board.

y Very carefully, score into each of the lines on both sides of the wood with yourexacto knife or sharp utility knife.

y Continue to score one line at a time until you have cut all the way through thewood creating 3" square pieces.

y

Take the smaller piece of basswood that is 2" wide and 24" long. Measuring fromone end of the board, mark lines every 2" from that end 5 times.y Turn the wood over and do the same thing on the other side measuring from the

same end of the board.y Cut along these lines carefully just as you did for the other piece of basswood

creating 2" square pieces.y Sand the cut edges of all your wood pieces.

Drill holes needed to prepare wood for assembly:

y Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the following holes into the followingpieces to make assembly easier.

o Drill 2 holes on each end of the 1.5" x 24" long pieces about .25" from theedges.

o Drill 3 holes on each end of the 3.5" x 24" long piece at about .5" fromeach of the edges and one in the center.

Apply the wood burned design:

y Print out the HERBSPattern - Click Herey Cut out each of the letter squares.y Rub the back of the pattern with a pencil (or get some carbon paper).y Lay the letter pattern on one of the 2" square basswood pieces (if using carbon

paper, put it between the pattern and the wood) and then trace the lines of thedesign.

y Preheat your wood burner and test on an extra piece of basswood.y Follow the lines with your wood burner for each of the letters and the additional


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adjust to center them.y Glue each piece in place and let dry.

Place youPotted Plants into the Box:

y To add your plants be sure that you plant them in 4" square pots and includesome sort of water catch at the bottom. (Many plants come in plastic 4" squarepots from your local nursery or garden store.)

y You can make a water catch by cutting a generous piece of aluminum foil andcovering the bottom of the pot with it or jar lids turned upside down and placedbelow the pot also work


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deep and is for the shelf runners to slide into.

Each side and end piece should then have a 1/4" groove (1/4" wide and deep) cut intothe inside face. This groove should be 1/4" from the bottom of each piece and is to

slot the plywood shelf base into.

Once all of this has bee done, glue and screw the side pieces into the back piece. Note

the side pieces should run the entire length of the drawer, with the back piece beingsandwiched in-between (the total depth of the drawer from front to back, not including

the drawer front, should be 14 1/2"). Once these have been glued and screwed, slide

the plywood base into the groove and glue it in place. Ensure that everything is

square.

To make the curved fronts of the drawer we use the same technique as was used on

the front base. Mark the curve and then use a band sander to round off the wood.Again, the center of the drawer front should be a depth of 2 1/4" while the two ends

should only be 3/4" deep.

Once this is done, it is time to attach the drawer fronts to the drawer units. To do this,

slide the drawer into the main unit and then place the drawer front carefully on top.

Mark the correct placement of this drawer and the glue and dowel into place. Thereshould be just room for both drawer fronts to co-exist and it is important to be very

accurate when doing this.

Once done, attach handles to the front of the drawers and then wax everything, withparticular attention being given to the shelf runners


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Breakfast Bar

Construction

Tools required: Router, sander, belt sander

Wood list: (white oak)

Description Qty Thickness Width Length

Top 4 1 1/16" (27 mm) 4" (102 mm) 72" (1829 mm)

Top Decorative molding 1 1 1/16" (27 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 71 1/2" (1816 mm)

Side of Skirt 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 6 3/8" (162 mm)

Side of skirt 2 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 11 1/2" (292 mm)

Front of skirt 1 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 52 3/4" (1340 mm)

Drawer fronts 3 3/4" (19 mm) 2" (51 mm) 12" (305 mm)

Back of Skirt 1 3/4" (19 mm) 2" (51 mm) 67 1/2" (1715 mm)

Mounting blocks 1 3/4" (19 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 78 3/4" (2000 mm)

Bracing (plywood) 1 3/4" (19 mm) 4" (102 mm) 40" (102 mm)


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Cut the 3/4" x 3/4" stock and pre-drill clearance holes formounting the top panel. Next mount the 3/4" x 3/4" blocks tothe top inside of the skirt with glue and small nails. Then, drill

clearance holes into the drawer fronts for the hardware (thedrawer knobs) and into the front of the skirt. The holes in the

skirt are to install and tighten up any hardware that may work loose over time and to

possible change the style of the hardware to match or fit a different need. Attach the

top decorative molding with glue and small nails. Cut the angle braces to the properdimensions and attach with glue and nails. Make sure you don't cover the access holes

that you drilled into the front of the skirt.

The project was finished using a golden oak color, followed by three coats of varnish.


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The side pieces hold the key to the paper towel

mechanism. Each side piece needs a groove added

in it (as shown in the diagram) that will allow the

main dowel rod to slot in (by pushing straight

back) and then drop down into the final "locked"position. To make this groove, use a 3/8" router bit,

cutting the groove to a depth of 1/4". There is noeasy way to make this slot (although a router table

helps) and the key is to cut the groove slowly, with

patience, having first marked the path of the slot. When cutting the slot in the secondside piece, remember that this should be a mirror image of the first, not a direct

replication.

3. Cut curve in side pieces

Once the slots are cut, round off the top of each side into a curve (diameter3") with a

jigsaw or a bandsaw. Once done, cut the single length of wood (10 1/2" long) into two

separate side pieces (if you did not do this earlier).

4. Attach sides to base

Attach the side pieces to the ends of the base unit using either a biscuit join or dowels

(thus hiding the joint)

5.Prepare Rod

Drill a hole 3/4" deep and 5/16" diameter in the center of each end of the main rod

dowel. The easiest way to find the center of this 1 1/4" diameter dowel is to cut out a

1 1/4" by 1 1/4" square of paper and draw a line from each corner (thus forming and"X"). Place this square of paper over the end of the dowel, and the center of the X is

the center of the dowel end. Once you have drilled the holes, glue the small dowel

ends in to them, so that the small dowels protrude 1/4". This dowel until should now

slot into the side grooves made earlier, completing the project.

6.San

d an

d polish

To finish the project, sand and varnish it.


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