Modern Garde Manger

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Modern Garde Manger

A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE

Robert Garlough, MS, FMP, AAC

Angus Campbell, C & G

A u s t r a l i a C a n a d a M e x i c o S i n g a p o r e S p a i n U n i t e d K i n g d o m U n i t e d S t a t e s

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Modern Garde Mangerby Robert Garlough and Angus Campbell

Vice President, Career EducationStrategic Business Unit:Dawn Gerrain

Director of Learning Solutions:Sherry Dickinson

Acquisitions Editor:Matthew Hart

Managing Editor:Robert L. Serenka, Jr.

Product Manager:Patricia M. Osborn

Editorial Assistant:Patrick B. Horn

Director of Production:Wendy A. Troeger

Production Editor:Matthew J. Williams

Project Editor:Maureen M.E. Grealish

Technology Project Manager:Sandy Charette

Director of Marketing:Wendy E. Mapstone

Marketing Channel Manager:Kristin B. McNary

Marketing Coordinator: Scott A. Chrysler

Cover and Text Design: Potter Publishing Studio

Cover Photography: Randy Van Dam

COPYRIGHT © 2006 Thomson Delmar Learning, a part of TheThomson Corporation. Thomson, the Star logo and DelmarLearning are trademarks used herein under license.

Printed in the United States of America1 2 3 4 5 XXX 10 09 08 07 06

For more information contact Delmar Learning, 5 Maxwell Drive, PO Box 8007, Clifton Park, NY 12065-2919.

Or find us on the World Wide Web athttp://www.delmarlearning.com orwww.culinary.delmar.com

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copy-right hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by anymeans—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopy-ing, recording, taping, Web distribution or information storage andretrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

For permission to use material from this text or product, contact us byTel (800) 730-2214Fax (800) 730-2215www.thomsonrights.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataGarlough, Robert. 1954-Modern garde manger / Robert Garlough, Angus Campbell.

p. cm.Includes bibliographical references and index.ISBN 1-4018-5009-X (alk. paper)1. Quantity cookery. 2. Cookery (Cold dishes) 3. Garnishes (Cookery) 4. Buffets (Cookery) I. Campbell, Angus, 1956- II. Title.

TX820.G37 2005641.7'9--dc22

2005032270

NOTICE TO THE READER

Publisher does not warrant or guarantee any of the products described herein or perform any independent analysis in connectionwith any of the product information contained herein. Publisher does not assume, and expressly disclaims, any obligation to obtainand include information other than that provided to it by the manufacturer.

The reader is notified that this text is an educational tool, not a practice book. Since the law is in constant change, no rule or state-ment of law in this bok should be relied upon for any service to any client. The reader should always refer to standard legal sourcesfor the current rule or law. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of the appropriate professional shouldbe sought.

The Publisher makes no representation or warranties of any kind, including but not limited to, the warranties of fitness for par-ticular purpose or merchantability, nor are any such representations implied with respect to the material set forth herein, and thepublisher takes no responsibility with respect to such material. The Publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, orexemplary damages resulting, in whole or part, from the readers’ use of, or reliance upon, this material.

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We would like to both dedicate this book to our parents in deep appreciation for thelove and guidance they’ve shown over our lifetimes. Our passion for food and ap-preciation for family were nurtured from the beginning. We dedicate this book to:

William and Charlotte Garlough Alexander and Murdina CampbellHolland, Michigan USA Isle of Lewis, Scotland

D E D I C A T I O N

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Thomson Delmar Learning is excited to announce the About Series, the first installment ina robust line of culinary arts textbooks from a leader in educational publishing. You’llsoon discover why it’s all About baking, garde manger, and wine! The first

three publications in this series are outlined below and will be available in early 2006. These es-sential textbooks for culinary arts students present the tools and techniques necessary to ensuresuccess as a culinary professional in a highly visual, accessible, and motivating format. It is trulythe first culinary arts series written for today’s culinary arts students.

The following principles represent the vision behind the About series:

� A highly visual, accessible, and motivating format

� A comprehensive instructor support package that provides the tools necessary to make yourlife easier and your in-class time as effective and stimulating as possible

� A thorough and complete review by a team of academic and industry professionals ensuringthat the About series is the most up-to-date and accessible culinary arts series ever published

About Professional Baking by Gail Sokol. With over 700 full-color photographsdemonstrating best practices and key techniques, your students will be motivated and preparedfor each and every baking laboratory exercise. Features include profiles of professional bakers; anentire chapter on mise en place; fully kitchen-tested recipes written in an easy-to-comprehend for-mat; clearly stated objectives and key terms presented at the beginning of each chapter; and hun-dreds of detailed step-by-step procedural photographs.

About Wine by J. Patrick Henderson and Dellie Rex. This introductory wine textbookpresents culinary arts and hospitality students with practical and detailed knowledge necessaryto manage wine and wine sales. The five distinct sections of the text cover the basics of wine, thewine regions of the world, types of wine, and the business of wine. Special features of About Wineinclude detailed color diagrams, maps, and photographs throughout to keep the text interestingand engaging. Useful appendices designed for use as a quick reference or as a basis for more re-search are also included, making this text a valuable resource even after formal training hasended.

Modern Garde Manger by Robert Garlough and Angus Campbell. This innovativeand comprehensive text is designed to meet the educational needs of both culinary arts studentsand experienced culinary professionals. Carefully researched content and fully tested recipes spanthe broad international spectrum of the modern garde manger station. Seventeen chapters aredivided between five areas of instruction, each focusing on a different aspect of the garde mangerchef’s required knowledge and responsibilities. With nearly 600 color photographs, more than250 recipes, and 75 beautifully illustrated graphs and charts, Modern Garde Manger is the mostcomprehensive text of its kind available for today’s culinary arts student and the professionalchef.

We look forward to providing you with the highest quality educational products available.Please contact us at (800) 477-3692 to order your desk copies of this exciting new series.

All the Best!

Matthew HartCulinary Arts Acquisitions Editormatthew.hart@thomson.com

L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I T O R

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INSTRUCTOR’S MANUAL

The Instructor’s Manual provides chapter outlines, answers to end-of-chapter review questions,and additional assessment questions and answers. The Instructor’s Manual is available at no chargeto adopters of the text in print and on-line.

ELECTRONIC CLASSROOM MANAGER (ECM)

The Electronic Classroom Manager is a CD-ROM designed as a complete teaching tool for ModernGarde Manger. It assists instructors in creating lectures, developing presentations, constructingquizzes and tests, and offers additional lesson plans. This valuable resource simplifies theplanning and implementation of the instructional program. This complimentary resourcepackage is available upon adoption of the text and consists of the following components:

Electronic Support Slides, divided by chapter, offer a visually-appealing way to extract keypoints of the textbook and enhance class lectures.

Computerized Test Bank consists of a variety of test questions including multiple choice andtrue/false.

Lesson Plans are available as an additional resource to aid the instructor in preparing lessons.

Instructor’s Manual

Available to both instructor and student, the Online Companion to Accompany Modern Garde Mangeris a valuable resource providing additional study materials (activities, web links, and other fea-tures.) The Online Companion is available on Thomson Delmar Learning’s Web site athttp://www.culinary.delmar.com.

OBJECTIVES: Answering the question “Whatam I about to learn?” will best describe thischapter-opening feature. These learning objec-tives are used to help students understand thatby the end of the chapter they will have aworking knowledge of the material presented.

P R I N T A N D M U L T I M E D I A

After reading this chapter,you should be able to� discuss the functional origins of salad in

modern gastronomy.

� list the classification of salads.

� explain how salads are composed.

� evaluate the appropriate selection and use ofsalads.

� prepare a variety of international cold saucesand dressings.

� demonstrate techniques in the preparation ofsalad ingredients.

InstructorResources

OnlineResources

Key Features

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KEY TERMS: Key terms are listed at the front of each chapter enforcing the importance of newterminology presented in each chapter.

ACTIVITIES AND APPLICATIONS EXERCISES: Exercises include Small Group Discussions,Research Projects, Group Activities, and Individual Activities for the classroom to aid in the stu-dent’s use of critical thinking skills.

REVIEW QUESTIONS: Each chapter ends with a series of assessment questions for the studentfor further consideration of content to encourage application and synthesis of material presented.GLOSSARY: Key terms and definitions are provided at the back of the book.

PHOTOGRAPHS: This beautifully illustrated textbook contains nearly 600 full-color photo-graphs including culinary equipment, tools, and ingredients.PREPARATION STEPS: Colorful photographs represent step-by-step procedures for recipesthroughout the text to help the student learn both cognitively and visually including the latestin kitchen equipment, and plated finished products.DETAILED ILLUSTRATIONS: Colorful line art is displayed throughout the text emphasizingand simplifying different processes with ease.CHAPTER TIPS AND NOTES: Special chapter tips and notes elaborate on essential techniques,giving students insight into the minds of culinary experts.

C O M P R E H E N S I V E L E A R N I N G P A C K A G E

Activitiesand

Applications

A. Group Discussions

Discuss the role played by grains in salad preparation; report on new ways ofpresenting them.

B. Research Project

As a group, research the use of micro greens, reporting on the quality andhow functional they are as salad greens.

C. Group Activity

Compose three new combination salads using drawings to illustrate theirconstruction.

D. Individual Activity

Create two recipes for salad dressing using fresh fruits oils and vinegarssuitable for dressing bitter greens.

as-purchased (AP)

bulbs

combination salad

complex salad

edible portion (EP)

emulsion

fruit

grains

legumes

micro greens

roots

salad

salad base

salad body

salad dressing

salad garnish

simple salad

tubers

KeyTerms

S i m p l eSimple salads are those that are basic in nature and composition. They include light salads madefrom a variety of one or more greens, fruits, pastas, or grains, but not in combination with each other.They are generally dressed with mild seasonings, such as vinaigrette, and are used as a course servedaround the entrée. Examples include coleslaw, macaroni salad, spinach salad, gelatins, and fruit cup.

C o m p l e x o r M i x e dComplex salads, also known as mixed salads, are heartier in character than simple salads, and arecomposed of raw or cooked vegetables, fruits, meats, seafood, game, or poultry. Complex salads,are seasoned with flavorful dressings or marinades and usually contain multiple ingredients from

SpecialFeatures

Key terms are also bolded at firstuse within the chapters for easyidentification.

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Table 5–2 Comparison of Salad Green YieldsAS EDIBLE EDIBLE EDIBLE EDIBLE

AS PURCHASED PORTION PORTION PORTION PORTION

INGREDIENT PURCHASED WEIGHT BY WEIGHT BY WEIGHT BY VOLUME BY VOLUME

NAME WEIGHT (U.S.) (METRIC) (U.S.) (METRIC) (U.S.) (METRIC)

Arugula 6 ounces 168 g 3.5 ounces 98 g 2.5 cup 591 mL

Boston 5.25 ounces 147 g 4 ounces 112 g 2.5 cup 591 mL

Green Cabbage 2 lb 896 g 1 lb, 14 ounces 840 g 8 cup 1.89 L

Napa Cabbage 2 lb 896 g 1 lb, 12 ounces 784 g 7 cup 1.66 L

Dandelion Greens 6.5 ounces 182 g 3.25 ounces 91 g 3 cup 709 mL

Escarole 12.5 ounces 350 g 9 ounces 252 g 6 cup 1.42 L

Frisée 12 ounces 336 g 7.5 ounces 210 g 6 cup 1.42 L

Green LeafLettuce 11 ounces 308 g 7 ounces 196 g 4 cup 946 mL

Radicchio 9.5 ounces 266 g 4.5 ounces 126 g 2 cup 473 mL

Romaine 14 ounces 392 g 9.25 ounces 259 g 4.5 cup 1.06 L

Spinach, flat leaf 11 ounces 308 g 7.5 ounces 210 g 7 cup

Watercress 5 ounces 140 g 3 ounces 84 g 2.5 cup

Lemon AioliRecipe Yield: 21⁄2 cups

M E A S U R E M E N T S I N G R E D I E N T SU.S. METRIC

4 each 4 each Large egg yolks, warmed1⁄2 cup 118 mL Lemon juice, fresh

8 each 8 each Garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon 5 mL Kosher salt

2 tablespoons 30 mL Lemon zest, fresh grated1⁄8 teaspoon 1⁄2 mL White pepper

11⁄2 cups 355 mL Olive oil, extra virgin

P R E PA R AT I O N S T E P S :

1. Combine egg yolks, lemon juice, garlic, salt, zest, and pepper in a blender.

2. With blender running, slowly drizzle in olive oil and blend until an emulsion forms.

3. Adjust seasoning, as needed.

4. Refrigerate in a tightly covered container.

RECIPE 5–6

The aioli may be kept inthe refrigerator for up to aday in a coveredcontainer.

Note

B i o g r a p h i c a l I n f o r m at i o n

Name: Muaynee (Marnee) Siriyarn Recipe Provided: Green Papaya Salad Place of Birth: Bangkok, Thailand

C u l i n a r y E d u c at i o n a n d Tr a i n i n g H i g h l i g h t s

As the third child in a family of eight children, Muaynee had to help her parents withthe family restaurant at an early age. By the age of seven, she had begun doing oddjobs in the kitchen and dining room, and by the time she was 12 years old, she wascooking. Muaynee’s father died when she was 13, making it necessary for her to haveher own food court in the local market. As a result of working to help her family,

Professional ProfilePROFESSIONAL PROFILES:

Interviews with leading culi-nary personalities offering aspecial recipe with step-by-steppreparation instructions.

TABLES AND CHARTS offervisual representation of impor-tant relevant information forstudents to comprehend moreeasily.

MEASUREMENTS: The bookis written for universal applica-tion, as all recipes are printedusing both U.S. customary andmetric measurements.

A RECIPE INDEX is provided at the back of the book for quick identification and location.

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PART I

Foundations in GardeManger, 1CHAPTER 1

Perspectives in Garde Manger, 2Craft Guilds and Livery Companies, 4

Training with Craft Guilds, 4In the Larder: Keeping to Eat, 5Role of the Modern-Day Garde Manger Chef, 9Focusing on Professional Development, 14Lifelong Learning, 18Increasing Cultural Awareness, 18Internationalizing the Menu, 19

CHAPTER 2

Calculations and Controls for the Garde Manger, 26

Calculations: A Job Requirement, 28Converting Metric and U.S. Customary System

Measures, 28Converting Temperatures, 29Recipe Analysis, 30Prime Variable Costs: Calculating Food, Beverage,

and Labor Costs, 33Production Management, 26The Three Cs of Production Reports, 38Calculating Quantities to Make, 40Menu Analysis, 42Pricing the Event, 45

CHAPTER 3

Banquet Organization, 52The Chef’s Responsibility, 54Kitchen Layout and Design, 54

Kitchen Ergonomics, 54Banquet Room Layout and Design, 58

Banquet Room Ergonomics, 58Buffet Planning and Presentation, 59Building Food Displays: Between Form

and Function, 62Traditional Service Patterns, 63

PART II

Preparation Skills of theGarde Manger, 73CHAPTER 4

Amuse-Bouches, Appetizers, and Hors d’Oeuvres, 74

A Taste by a Different Name, 76An International Beginning, 77Hot Hors d’Oeuvres, 79Skewered Foods, 80Cold Hors d’Oeuvres, 109

CHAPTER 5

Salads with Vegetables, Fruits, andGrains, 162

A Bountiful Pantry, 164Classical Function of Salads, 164Modern Types of Salads, 164Composition and Evaluation of the Salad, 165Salad Ingredients, 167

CHAPTER 6

Sandwiches, 218Sandwich: What’s in a Name?, 220

Composition of a Sandwich, 220Building a Sandwich, 221Types of Sandwiches, 222

PART III

Fabrication Skills of theGarde Manger, 255CHAPTER 7

Poultry and Game Birds, 256Chapter Format, 258

Recognition of Quality Points, 258Evisceration of Poultry and Game Birds, 259Dressing of Poultry and Game Birds, 260

C O N T E N T S

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CHAPTER 8

Game Meats, 282Game’s Coming of Age, 284

Game Meats, 284Cooking Game, 296

CHAPTER 9

Meats, 300The Commonality of Meat, 302

Dry and Wet Aging, 302Fabrication Charts, 303Common Cuts, 304Specialty Small Cuts, 308

CHAPTER 10

Fish and Shellfish, 322Market Forms of Fresh Fish and Shellfish, 324

The Classification of Fish, 326Handling and Storage, 328Recognition of Quality Points of Fish

and Shellfish, 330Determining the Freshness of Fish, 330The Potential Yield of Fish, 330The Skeletal Structure of Round and Flat Fish, 331Fabrication of Fish, 331The Cuts of Fish, 338Shellfish Through the Ages, 349Quality of Fresh Shellfish, 351Preparing Fresh Shellfish, 351

CHAPTER 11

Specialty Meats, 368Offal/Specialty Meats/Organ Meats, 370

Recognition of Quality Points, 370Fabrication and Dressing, 370

PART IV

Preserved Foods of theGarde Manger, 401CHAPTER 12

Methods of Preserving Foods, 402The Advantages of Food Preservation in the Kitchen, 404

Using Acid to Partially Preserve and Flavor Food, 404Drying Foods, 422Preserving by Hot Pickling, Jarring, or Canning, 427

CHAPTER 13

Curing, Sausage Making, and Smoking, 446

A Perspective in the Curing of Meats and Seafood, 448The Curing of Foods, 449The Basic Curing Methods, 450Ingredients Used in Curing and Sausage Making, 451Curing and Brining Formulas with Time Charts, 453Sausage Making, 462Barbecue, 489

CHAPTER 14

Pâtés, Terrines, and Mousselines, 508

A Brief History of Charcuterie, 510From Necessity to Haute Cuisine, 510Equipment Used in the Making of Pâtés

and Terrines, 512Elements of Production, 514Cooking Times and Methods, 532Cooling and Storage, 533

CHAPTER 15

Kitchen-Made Cheeses and Creams, 576

A Brief History of Cheese, 578Early Varieties, 580Cheese Today, 582The Varied Uses of Kitchen-Made Cheeses

and Creams, 587Cheese Production, 588Basic Equipment Identification, 591Basic Ingredient Identification, 592Basic Steps in Cheese Making, 594Making Basic Cheese, 597Making Basic Creams, 606Caring for Cheese, 608Serving Cheese, 609

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PART V

Displayed Arts of the GardeManger, 613 CHAPTER 16

Sculpting, Carving, and Modeling, 614

A Timeless Art Form, 616Ice Sculpting, 617From Passive to Interactive Sculptures, 629Vegetable and Fruit Carvings, 631Dough Modeling, 635Fat Carvings, 644Styrofoam, 647

CHAPTER 17

Food Decoration, PlatterPresentation, and CulinaryCompetition, 652

The Purpose of Decoration and Presentation, 654Coating Agents, 655Displaying Food for Consumption, 670Culinary Competitions, 679

APPENDIX, 685

GLOSSARY, 691

REFERENCES, 697

RECIPE INDEX, 699

SUBJECT INDEX, 705

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R E C I P E SCHAPTER 1

Perspectives in Garde MangerCompote of Fruit with Elderflower Cream, 23

CHAPTER 2

Calculations and Controls for the Garde MangerMaltese Octopus and Snail Tian Served with Warm Dorado

Fillet and Red Prickly Pear Dressing, 49

CHAPTER 3

Banquet OrganizationArtichoke and Marinated Anchovy Salad with Lemon and

Vanilla Jelly, 69

CHAPTER 4

Amuse-Bouches, Appetizers, and Hors d’OeuvresIndian Beef Kabobs, 81Chicken Satay, 82Lamb Tikka, 83Pork and Mango Skewers, 84Quiche Lorraine Tarts, 85Southwestern Quiche Cups, 86Smoked Salmon with Mushrooms Barquettes, 87Spanakopita, 94Sausage and Cabbage Strudel, 95Sweetwater Prawns with Prosciutto, 96Bourek, 97Maryland Crab Cake Spoon Dumplings, 99Spring Roll or Wonton Wrapper Dough, 100Dim Sum Dough, 100Dim Sum Filling, 101Steamed Pleated Dumplings, 101Shiu Mai, 103Mo-Shu Spring Rolls, 104Shrimp Samosa, 105Cornish Pasty Dough, 106Cornish Pasty Filling, 106 Empanada Dough, 107Empanada Filling, 107Basic Pasta Dough, 108Pasta Dough, Suitable for Stuffing, 108Sushi-Zu, 117Shari, Sushi Meshi, Sushi Rice, 117Cold Cream of Leek and Tomato Soup, 122Ginger Peach Soup, 123

Cantaloupe-Rum Soup, 124Avocado-Crabmeat Soup, 125Chilled Gazpacho Sips, 126Olives and Artichoke Hearts with Chiles, Garlic, and Balsamic

Vinegar, 132Goat Cheese Stuffed Olives, 132North African Olive and Citrus Salad, 133Spicy Candied Pecans, 136Salty Spiced Almonds, 137Oaxcan Peanuts, 137Turkish Dried Apricots with Goat Cheese and Pistachios, 140Endive Leaves with Herbed Cheese Spread, 141Sardine Spread, 141Curried Egg Spread, 142Cilantro Pistachio Pesto, 143Roasted Eggplant-Hummus Dip, 143Potted Black Bean Dip, 144Guacamole, 145Cucumber Raita, 145Tapenade, 146Crisp Vegetable Chips, 147Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 150Gorgonzola-Scallion Compound Butter, 150Garlic-Horseradish Compound Butter, 151Garlic-Mustard Compound Butter, 151Lemon Dill Butter, 152 Pears and Prosciutto Canapé, 154Grenoble Canapé, 154Blue Cheese and Duck Breast Canapés, 155Cajun Shrimp Canapés, 156Romanoff Tartlets, 157

CHAPTER 5

Salads with Vegetables, Fruits, and GrainsBasic French Dressing, 169Oriental Vinaigrette, 170Basil Vinaigrette, 171Caper and Herb Vinaigrette, 171French Rouille, 172Lemon Aioli, 172Caesar Dressing, 173Mayonnaise, 174Chantilly Dressing, 174Tartar Sauce, 175Sauce Rémoulade, 175Blue Cheese Dressing, 176Russian Dressing, 176

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Parmesan Dressing, 177 Ranch Dressing, 177Honey Lime Yogurt Dressing, 178Lowfat Creamy Dressing, 178Boiled Dressing, 179Coleslaw Dressing, 180Citrus Salad Dressing, 181Greek Tzatziki, 182Greek Skordalia, 182Thai Peanut Sauce, 183Chinese Duck Sauce, 183Sweet and Sour Sauce, 184Nam Pla Sauce, 184Soy Chile Dipping Sauce, 185Chinese Black Bean Sauce, 185Chile-Lime Sauce, 186Italian Salsa Verde, 186American Seafood Cocktail Sauce, 187Italian Pesto, 187Asian Barbecue Sauce, 188Vinegar-Based Barbecue Sauce, 188Southern Barbecue Sauce, 189Spicy Texas Pit Barbecue Sauce, 189Citrus Barbecue Sauce, 190Tabbouleh, 206Caponata, 207Vegetarian Salmagundi, 208Pickled Cucumber Slaw, 209Green Salad with Blue Cheese, Walnuts, and Figs, 210Caesar Salad, 211Pig’s Knuckles with Meat and Spiced Autumn Squash, 212Warm Shrimp and Artichoke Salad with Orzo, 213Jamaican Salsa Salad, 214Green Papaya Salad, 216

CHAPTER 6

SandwichesLobster Avocado Lemon Roll, 224Grilled Caribbean Shrimp Wrap with Lime Sour Cream and

Red Cabbage, 226Smoked Duck with Caramelized Oranges Open-Faced

Sandwich, 228Egg Salad Sandwich Filling, 230Fresh Lox Sandwich Filling, 230Chicken Salad Sandwich Filling, 231Warmed Club Sandwich, 232Torta de Pavo, 233Chipotle Purée, 233Refried Black Beans, 233

Tandori Chicken Naan Wrap, 235Grilled Beef Gorgonzola Sandwich, 236Grilled Eggplant Sandwich with Tahini Sauce, 236Grilled Portabello Roasted Pepper Sandwich, 237Monte Cristo Sandwich, 238Chesapeake Bay Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich, 246Chicken Red Pepper Brioche Panini, 251Open-faced Vegetarian Sanger, 253

CHAPTER 7

Poultry and Game BirdsRoulades of Partridge with Pear-Honey Sauce, 280

CHAPTER 8

Game MeatsCooked Marinade, 289Uncooked Marinade, 289Venison Mincemeat, 298

CHAPTER 9

MeatsSeekh Kebab, 320

CHAPTER 10

Fish and ShellfishConch Salad, 366

CHAPTER 11

Specialty MeatsFoie Gras Mousse, 377Infused Torchon with Port and Red Wine, 380Cured Foie Gras, 382Pan-Roasted Foie Gras, 384Seared Foie Gras, 385Sautéed Foie Gras, 385Grilled Foie Gras, 385Steamed Foie Gras, 386Poached Foie Gras, 386Butter-Roasted Foie Gras, 387Oven Roasted Sweet Onions, 399

CHAPTER 12

Methods of Preserving FoodsTurbot Ceviche, 408Scallop Ceviche, 409Mahi-Mahi Ceviche, 409Beef Carpaccio, 411

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Tuna Carpaccio with Mango Salsa, 412Beefsteak Tartare, 413Salmon Tartare, 414Pickled Anchovies, 416Greek Pickling Liquor, 417Portuguese Pickling Liquor, 417American Pickling Liquor, 418Pickled Mustard Greens, 418Cornichons, 419Bread and Butter Pickles, 420Caribbean Fruit Pickle, 421Gingered Tomato Comfiture, 421Oven-Dried Tomatoes in Olive Oil, 424Sage Bourbon Jelly, 429Sweet Onion Marmalade, 429Tamarind Fig Jam, 430Chow-Chow Pickling Liquid, 431Thai Pickled Cucumbers, 431Peach Tomato Cherry Salsa, 433Blackened Jalapeño Salsa, 434Mexican Salsa Cruda, 435American Apple Ketchup, 435Hot and Spicy Tomato Ketchup, 436Sweet ’n Spiced Beer Mustard, 437Country-Style Grain Mustard, 437Mango Chutney, 439Banana Chutney, 440Pineapple Mint Chutney, 440Cranberry Ginger Chutney, 441Marinated Salmon, 443

CHAPTER 13

Curing, Sausage Making, and SmokingShellfish Brine for Hot Smoking, 454Dry Cure for Large Fish Fillets (to Be Hot Smoked), 455Brine for Small Oily or Game Fish (to Be Hot Smoked), 455Dry Cure for Lox I, 456Dry Cure for Lox II, 457Dry Cure for Lox III, 457 Dry Cure for Meats, 458Brine for Meats, Poultry, and Game, 461Italian Dry-Cured Pepperoni, 481Cajun Andouille Sausage, 481German Bratwurst, 482Traditional Scottish Haggis, 483Fresh Polish Kielbasa, 484South African Boerewors, 484

Spanish Chorizo, 485Canadian Smoked Country Venison Sausage, 486English Breakfast Sausage, 487Pastrami, 487Dry-Cured Bacon, 488Lime Ginger Sweet Soy Marinade, 491American Southwestern Marinade, 491All-Purpose Rub, 493Fish and Shellfish Rub, 493Cajun Rub, 493Dry Jamaican Jerk Rub, 498Jamaican Jerk Marinade, 498Brazilian White Meat Marinade, 499Tandoor Marinade, 502Peri-Peri Marinade, 503Manyeleti Red Meat Marinade, 503Smokey Mountain Pork Sausage Confit, 505

CHAPTER 14

Pâtés, Terrines, and MousselinesAmerican Spice Mix, 517Brazilian Spice Mix, 517British Spice Mix, 518Caribbean Spice Mix, 518East Asian Spice Mix, 518French Spice Mix, 519Italian Spice Mix, 519South African Spice Mix, 520South Asian Spice Mix, 520Short Paste, 521Brioche Dough, 522Suet Pastry, 522Hot Water Pastry, 523Pure Forcemeat, 526Bread and Egg Panada, 526Flour Panada, 527Rice Panada, 527Brown Venison Stock, 529Aspic Clarified with Meat, 530Aspic Clarified with Egg White, 531Veal Forcemeat, 534Shrimp Forcemeat, Food Processor Style, 536Trout Forcemeat with Bread Panada, 538Duck Pâté, 540Ceann Cropic, 541Vegetable Terrine, 542Salmon and Crawfish Terrine, 543

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Monkfish Liver Terrine, 544Terrine of Foie Gras, 545Smoked Guinea Fowl Terrine with Truffles, 546Terrine of Duck Confit, 550Pig’s Head and Tongue Terrine, 551Lobster Quenelles, 553Stuffed Lobster Timbale, 554Smoked Scallop and Watercress Parfait, 556Ham Mousse, 558Smoked Salmon Mousse, 559Roasted Red Pepper Mousse, 561Lamb Breast Galantine, 562Pig’s Trotter Galantine, 563Chicken Galantine (3 Ways), 564Torchon of Foie Gras, 566Aussie Kanga Stuffing, 568Brazilian Stuffing, 569Chinese Stuffing, 570Greek Feta Stuffing, 571Sponge of Atlantic Shellfish with Celery Branch, Licorice, and

Pear, 573

CHAPTER 15

Kitchen-Made Cheeses and CreamsYogurt Cheese, 599Ricotta Cheese, 599Queso Blanco/Panir (Also known as Vinegar Cheese), 600Creamed Lemon Goat’s Cheese, 602Mascarpone, 604Mozzarella Cheese, 604Crème Fraîche, 606Acidulated Cream, 607Scottish Crowdie, 607Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Fondue, 611

CHAPTER 16

Sculpting, Carving, and ModelingSalt Dough, 636Bread Dough I, 638Bread Dough II, 639Cornucopia Dough, 640Dead Dough, 641Leaf Dough, 642Gingerbread House Dough, 643Tallow, 647Maxfield Color Method, 649

CHAPTER 17

Food Decoration, PlatterPresentation, and CulinaryCompetitionClear Aspic for Display (Triple Strength), 661Brown Aspic for Display (Triple Strength), 661White Wine Aspic Jelly (Edible), 662White Fish Aspic (Edible), 662Fresh Apple Ginger Aspic (Edible), 663Watermelon Aspic Jelly (Edible), 663Jellied Glace (Edible), 664Classical White Chaud-Froid, 667Classical Brown or Red Chaud-Froid, 667Dark Red Chaud-Froid, 668Green Chaud-Froid, 668Classical Mayonnaise Collée, 669White, Pink, or Green Mayonnaise Collée, 669

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F O R E W O R D

In the classic French kitchen the term mise en place could well be the absolute foundation notonly of its justifiably famous cuisine but also the essential starting point of every excellentmeal ever made by anyone. A culinary instruction usually comprises two parts: the recipe, which is the list of measured

ingredients, followed by the method by which they are assembled. Mise en place means to select and ready those recipe ingredients ahead of time, allowing the

cook’s absolute focus to be upon the cooking process because everything that is needed is “athand.”

The garde manger is the classic description of the department of a kitchen that does this“prep work” and therefore it must be argued that, when done with all due diligence, the outputof the garde manger will have an enormous impact upon the quality of the eventual dining expe-rience and as a result, the financial success of the entire operation.

I began my food career in the garde manger of the hotel my father was managing at thetime. I learned to handle a knife, came to understand the reason why all manner of foods werecut in certain ways, and watched as the freshest of ingredients were inspected before I wasallowed to “participate” in the daily quest for perfection.

All of this effort and training served me well in my ongoing career in both the hotel busi-ness and eventually in television.

Television is impossible without complex stages of mise en place and excellent raw materialsfor those close up “beauty” shots. I have been brilliantly served by my own team of garde mangerassociates over the years and freely admit to being in their debt.

How, I wonder, will it be for you? Will you go on to fame and fortune, delighting futurediners? If this is your purpose you will do well to read every word of this book . . . it is an essen-tial mise en place for your future. The authors have invested much hard work and the fruits oftheir extensive experience into this book; now you have only to read, learn, digest, and apply.

Much success in all you set your hearts to achieve.

Graham Kerr

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P R E F A C E

“. . . instead of copying servilely, we ourselves should seek newapproaches so that we too may leave behind us methods of workingthat have been adapted to the customs and needs of our time.”

G e o r g e s - A u g u s t e E s c o f f i e r

Modern Garde Manger is written for both the working chef and the serious student engagedin the practice and study of culinary arts. It is intended to be useful in several capacitiesas a teaching tool; it seeks to explain the scientific reasons behind techniques, while also

demonstrating methods of preparation. It is well suited to serve as a primary course book for begin-ning and advanced courses in garde manger, as well as a hands-on course in banquets and catering.

This book is designed to improve upon existing expertise, as well as for those wishing togain a solid foundation in a variety of required cooking-related skills. It is written with the in-tent of reaching culinarians at various stages of their own career development. Its lessons andmethods cut across most disciplines within the professional kitchen and it serves as an easy studycompanion for both the novice and expert chef who continue to enhance their skills.

As the foodservice industry continues to evolve, chefs must be ever vigilant to the trends anddemands of the trade. Customers are more informed today and they have an eye for fanciful pre-sentations and a taste for complex flavors. And as cooking methods, ingredients, and flavor pro-files continue to blend, foodservice operators continually seek to refine their menus. The adeptgarde manger chef must be able to meet higher expectations of his or her patrons, and increasedresponsibilities of challenging positions. A broad understanding of modern global cuisine isparamount to the success of a garde manger chef.

Purpose of This TextbookDuring the last three decades of our culinary-related travels to many diverse regions of theplanet, we have had the opportunity to study the culinary arts with some very talented chefs,farmers, winemakers, fishmongers, cheese makers, butchers, and other associated craftsmen. We have also had the incredible good fortune to work among their staff, using the ingredients,equipment, and methods as they use them. This book is based on our travels and personal experi-ences in the culinary world and is reflected in our recipes by converging flavors and ingredientsfrom across the world. To the chefs and consumers who reside in these various countries oforigin, their cuisine is equally noble and worthy of inclusion.

Organization of the TextRecognizing the broad range of responsibilities and interests a garde manger chef carries, ModernGarde Manger was written to address a varied selection of skill sets. It serves as a handy recipeguide, providing countless proven formulas that have been tested and used by the authors.

There are five distinct sections covering seventeen chapters of text and recipes:Part I: Foundations in Garde Manger, opens with an overview of the position of garde

manger chef. It reviews some of the more significant historical events and milestones in culinaryhistory related to this ancient responsibility, and then brings the position forward to the modernkitchen. The section then discusses the global nature of the position, and how chefs may use in-digenous foods and styling from other cultures to enhance their menus. The mathematical skillsrequired by the garde manger are discussed, with emphasis on recipe costing and performingfinancial analysis on the menu. Part 1 concludes with a chapter on kitchen and banquet organi-zation, including useful information on workflow design. It also approaches the planning andpresentation of buffets and considerations that can be made to enhance the dining experience.

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Part II: Preparation Skills of the Garde Manger is a storehouse of recipes with theirpreparation methods for the working chef. Gathered from years of working with many talentedfoodservice professionals from around the world, this section addresses the basic areas of foodpreparation that commonly fall to the garde manger department of a large hotel or club opera-tion. It does so from a distinctly global viewpoint because as the role of the garde manger chefhas evolved over the years, so too has the nature of the garde manger’s recipes. Part 2 also pro-vides the reader with insightful information on the ingredients commonly used in the prepara-tion of appetizers, salads, and sandwiches. We believe this section will aid the chef in meetinghis or her modern needs.

Part III: Fabrication Skills of the Garde Manger provides an elaborate selection of pho-tographs and drawings to illustrate the many technical skills required of the garde manger chef.Special attention is paid to the butchery of poultry, game, and various meats, plus the fabricationof fish and shellfish are carefully detailed. Many cuts not often used in the traditional Westernkitchen are discussed and illustrated, again addressing the global nature of the food business. Inan effort to refrain from duplication of technique, we have chosen to demonstrate different tech-niques that may be used on most of the same products in the chapter.

Part IV: Preserved Foods of the Garde Manger includes several important chapters onfood preservation, including the use of food chemicals, dehydration, and canning. Each tech-nique of preservation provides plentiful benefits to the kitchen. Methods of smoking and curingfoods are explained in detail, while incorporating numerous recipes on sausage making. The sec-tion also includes a comprehensive chapter on the use and production of pâtés, terrines, andmousselines, with numerous step-by-step photographs detailing their production. Part 4 endswith a careful treatment of cheese making, and includes several recipes for kitchen-made cheesesand creams.

Part V: Displayed Arts of the Garde Manger illustrates the imaginative side of the gardemanger chef. The various media used for sculpting, carving, and modeling are discussed, andtechniques learned from some of the leading foodservice sculptors are revealed. Ideas for usingindividual plate sculptures along with buffet centerpieces are explored. Techniques in coatingwith aspic and classical chaud-froid are demonstrated for use in buffet presentations and culinarycompetitions.

Pedagogical and special features are throughout the chapters providing structure andguidance to your learning. Features include clear Chapter Objectives, Key Terms, ReviewQuestions, Activities and Applications, and a Glossary and Appendix located at the back of thebook include additional resources.

Supplements Instructor’s Manual The Instructor’s Manual provides chapter outlines, answers to end of chapterreview questions, additional assessment questions and answers, and definitions of key terms. TheInstructor’s Manual is available at no charge to adopters of the text.

Electronic Classroom Manager (ECM) The Electronic Classroom Manager is a CD-ROM de-signed as a complete teaching tool to accompany Modern Garde Manger. This valuable resourcesimplifies the planning and implementation of the instructional program. Included on the ECMare chapter-specific PowerPoint® presentations, a computerized test bank, additional lessonplans, and a PDF file of the Instructor’s Manual.

Online Companion Available to both instructors and students, the Online Companion is avaluable resource providing activities, Web links, and much more. Access the OnlineCompanion through Thomson Delmar Learning’s Web site at www.culinary.delmar.com.

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A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

The development and production of a text manifests itself from conception through com-pletion. All during the process, transformations occur within the manuscript that resultin, what the editors and authors’ hope will be, a better-finished product. Such was the

case with this book.We would like to acknowledge the many people who took interest in this project. Without

question, their involvement helped us focus our efforts on the essence of the modern gardemanger. In particular, we would like to thank the following individuals; we believe the result is asuperior book because of their contributions:

The entire staff, faculty and student population of the Hospitality Education Department atGrand Rapids Community College for their interest in and support of the project; and in partic-ular Randy Sahajdack, Bill Jacoby, Mike Kidder, Bob Monaldo, Luba Petrash, Katie Nickels andDale Vandenburg for their involvement. It is a pleasure to come to work every day with such atalented and committed group of colleagues.

The management at My Chef, Inc. of Naperville, Illinois, Bill and Karen Garlough, for use oftheir relevant photos and documents. Bob Sullivan at Plitt Seafood of Chicago, Illinois for use ofhis fishery and quality products. Thad Lyman, Executive Chef/Partner of the Napa Valley Grille,for use of his menu and Market Platter. 20th Century Market for their assistance with sausagephotography and Kent Butcher Supply for the use of their facility, both of Grand Rapids. BobTansing and Athens Foods for lending their directions and drawings for the use of phyllo dough.Our gratitude to Ron Stein, sculptor and Visual Arts professor, for his assistance with the arma-ture and stands used in chapter 16.

Our photographer, Randy Van Dam of Grand Rapids, Michigan and Chef Joseph George ofMidland Country Club, our food stylist, whose talented work together brought our textbook tolife. GRCC students Chris Ball, Jonathan Bartelson, Patrick Cummisky, Katie Nickels, andJames Taylor for their invaluable assistance to our food stylist.

Our celebrated food professionals who we were honored to include at the end of each chapter;our book, and indeed our entire food industry, is elevated by these people every day. Their dedi-cation, tenacity, raw talent, and artistry are to be admired and respected.

Graham Kerr, who first touched our lives via television, and later as a featured speaker to ourculinary program, has been an important influence throughout our careers. Graham’s ceaselessenergy, hunger for knowledge, commitment to healthy living, passion for food, and sincerefriendship made him the singular choice to write our Foreword. We are truly honored that heaccepted.

The team at Thomson Delmar Learning of Clifton Park, New York for their care, guidanceand production of the text; we are indebted to them for their professional contributions. We par-ticularly would like to thank Joan Gill, the Acquisitions Editor who initially contracted us for

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the project and Matthew Hart, the Acquisitions Editor who enthusiastically adopted our project;Sherry Dickinson, the Director of Learning Solutions who willingly championed our plan withThomson Delmar Learning; Pat Gillivan and Patricia Osborn, our Product Managers whosteadily shepherded our manuscript through development; Maureen Grealish, our Project Editorwhose proofreading skills and wordsmith abilities proved invaluable; Matt Williams, ProductionEditor and Wendy Troeger, Director of Production for their yeoman efforts in the layout and de-sign of the finished product; Kristin McNary, our Channel Manager and Wendy Mapstone,Director of Marketing for their comprehensive promotion of the text; Lisa Flatley and Pat Horn,our Editorial Assistants who kept the communications going and the details straight; and all ofthe other staff at Delmar Learning. It takes an army of talented individuals to bring a book tofruition; they were all vitally important to the process.

Lastly, we would like to thank our families who allowed us the enormous measure of time todevote to this project. They are generous and caring, and our most treasured gift.

The food styling team forModern Garde MangerBACK ROW (L TO R):Chris Ball, PatrickCummisky, JonathanBartelson, KatherineNickels, James Taylor,Mike Kidder, DaleVanden Berg, RandySahajdackFRONT ROW (L TO R):Joe George, RobertGarlough, AngusCampbellRandy Van Dam (not pictured)

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R E V I E W E R S

Our thanks also to the following reviewers, who both applauded our efforts and chal-lenged our thinking, providing many excellent suggestions and ideas for improvingthe text. Their comments were insightful and respected:

ROBERT ANDERSON

Withlacoochee Technical Institute

DAVID BEARL

The Southeast Institute of the Culinary Arts

WILFRED BERIAU

Southern Maine Technical College

JULIAN DARWIN

Cascade Culinary Institute

JONATHAN DEUTSCH

Kingsborough Community College

JILL DOEDERLEIN

Lansing Community College

GREG FORTE

Utah Valley State College

ROBERT HUDSON

Pikes Peak Community College

HELMUT KAHLERT

Newbury College

KEVIN KEATING

Capital Culinary Institute

JOHN KINSELLA

Cincinnati State Technical & CommunityCollege

DR. KEITH MANDABACH

New Mexico State University

DAVID PANTONE

Florida Culinary Institute

MICHAEL PICCININO

Shasta College

TINA POWERS

Metropolitan Community College

HEATH STONE

Johnson & Wales University

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Although they originally hailed from different countries, Chefs Garlough and Campbellhave worked together for over fifteen years as culinary educators at one of America’sleading culinary colleges. A common passion for exploration of distant cultures, and an

intense interest in global cuisine has resulted in their leading annual international cuisine andculture study tours to over 30 countries on six continents. Many hundreds of culinary studentshave traversed the planet with them, as they have continued to study world gastronomy.

During their travels, they have taken seminars in various culinary schools in Italy, France,Greece, Australia, South Africa, Scotland, Brazil, and Malta. Chefs Garlough and Campbell haveshopped the world’s food markets, including Barcelona, Nassau, Zurich, Istanbul, Auckland,New York, Paris, Puerto Vallarta, Lucerne, Glasgow, Athens, Rome, Valetta, Hong Kong,Frankfurt, London, Cairo, Beijing, and Lisbon. They have successfully competed in culinarycompetitions in the Bahamas, England, Scotland, United States, Malta, Germany, and France.

Their joint quest for learning the art and science of cookery has culminated in this textbook,a reflection of their observations and understanding of the modern garde manger.

Robert Garlough, MS, FMP, AACChef-Emeritus, Grand Rapids Community CollegeAs founding director of the Hospitality Education Department at Grand Rapids CommunityCollege (GRCC) in Grand Rapids, Michigan, Chef Garlough has over 35 years experience in thefoodservice industry with over 28 years in culinary education. In addition to the courses andseminars that he teaches at the college, Robert annually leads students and industry executiveson culinary study tours around the globe. He is a partner in the catering corporation of My Chef,Inc., located in Naperville, Illinois and Principal to his consulting company, The CulinaryGroup.

Chef Garlough is certified as a Foodservice Management Professional by the EducationalFoundation of the National Restaurant Association, and is a member of the American Academyof Chefs, The Honorable Order of the Golden Toque, and the Craft Guild of Chefs. He holds anAssociate in Occupational Studies degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute ofAmerica, a Bachelor of Business Administration degree in Restaurant and Lodging Managementfrom Davenport University, and a Master of Science in Occupational Education degree fromFerris State University.

A recipient of numerous culinary salon competition awards, Robert personally earned silverand bronze medals at the 1988 Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (considered the “CulinaryOlympics”) in Frankfurt, Germany while managing a six-member team of GRCC faculty andgraduates. He served as Manager for the 1993 Pastry Team USA that represented the UnitedStates at the 1993 Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie (World Pastry Cup) in Lyons, France. ChefGarlough also served as Manager for Team USA 1998, a culinary student team representingAmerica at the Malta International Students Culinary Salon in St. Julian’s Bay, Malta. In 1984,Chef Garlough was awarded the Chef Herman Breithaupt Memorial Award by CHRIE, naminghim their national chef-instructor of the year. The American Culinary Federation EducationalInstitute honored him as their National Educator of the Year in 1992.

His professional affiliations included serving as President of the Michigan Council on Hotel,Restaurant and Institutional Education, President of the American Culinary Federation GreaterGrand Rapids Chapter, Chairman of the American Culinary Federation Educational InstituteAccrediting Commission, and Executive Director of the International Consortium of Hospitalityand Tourism Institutes.

A B O U T T H E A U T H O R S

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Chef Garlough is a co-author of Ice Sculpting the Modern Way: For Beginning and Advanced IceArtists, also published by Thomson Delmar Learning.

He and his wife Nancy reside in Grand Rapids, Michigan where they have raised three chil-dren: Jonathan, Jeremy, and Kristen.

Angus Campbell, C & GChef-Instructor, Grand Rapids Community CollegeChef Campbell is from the Island of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, where as a younglad his passion for the culinary arts was nurtured by his constant dabbling in his mothers excel-lent home cooking. His formal European-style training brought him to the mainland of Scotlandto the cities of Elgin, Aberdeen, and Glasgow and finally to Troon on the Ayrshire coast and theMarine Highland Hotel where he ran the unique French à la carte restaurant, l’Auberge deCuisine. While there, the restaurant was awarded an AA Rosette for fine cuisine. His certifica-tion is with the City and Guilds of London Institute, and he achieved master craftsman levelwith The Craft Guild of Chefs.

He then turned his culinary talents to teaching at Glasgow College of Food Technology, inGlasgow, Scotland where he became a senior lecturer in food production. After eight years, andhaving earned his teaching qualification from Jordanhill College of Education, it was time forChef Campbell to continue his travels. He became the Departmental Chair of Food and Beverageat the Bahamas Hotel Training College, where he was instrumental in planning the building ofthe new Hotel Training College. While in the Bahamas, he also held the position of apprentice-ship chairman for the Bahamas Culinary Association. After three years in the Caribbean, hemoved to Grand Rapids Community College where he now teaches food production for theHospitality Education Department at their public restaurant, The Heritage. Chef Campbell alsoserves as an adjunct faculty member at Western Michigan University in Kalamazoo, Michigan,in the department of Family and Consumer Sciences.

He has won medals at many levels of food competition and is an accomplished junior culi-nary team coach, taking his students to the national finals of junior competition in 1996, andcoaching them to a 15 gold medal performance at an International competition in Malta in1999. His production of a monthly cable TV show has won a national bronze medal at theParagon awards, and he has two multi-part video series featured on his personal Web page.

After 30 years in the culinary field he still loves nothing more than going into the kitchento start a busy day of food production and passing on his knowledge to each and every student hemeets.

He and his Scottish-born wife, Katie, live in Grand Rapids, Michigan with their two daugh-ters, Fiona who was born in the Bahamas and Cara who was born in the United States.

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