fully fashion
DESCRIPTION
for merchandisingTRANSCRIPT
Knitwear Technology (Fully fashion)
Page 1 of 30
Knitwear Technology (Fully fashion)Knitting: Knitting is a inter locking / inter looping / inter matching of loops which form a structure is called Knitting.
Weaving: weaving is a interlacement of two sets of yarn at right angles which form a structure is called weaving.
Loop: banding form of yarn is called loop.
Apparel
Woven Knitwear
Cut & sew Fully fashion Tubular course gauge
Light heavy
Fine gauge sweater
Classification of knitted structure:
Knitted structure
Weft knitted structure Warp knitted structure
Circular knitting Flat bed knitting Tricot Raschel Small Large dia m/c dia m/c Hand driven Power driven - Drive manually - Driven in power End products:End product: - limited design - unlimited/fancy Socks T-shirt can produce design can produce - Multi non apparel seam polo shirt - low volume - High volume can produce. production production - Mosquito net.-Fabric for clothing - Integrated gmts - Integrated garments - Mesh fabric.- Single Jersey not possible possible - Power net.- Rib knitted structure - Fish net- Double jersey End products: sweater, fully fashioned - Laces etc.- Lacoste / pique knitwear, cardigan, poll over etc Describe the various structures:
Warp knitted structure: lengthwise (warp wise) direction of loops is called warp knitted structure.
Mesh fabric: supporting fabric, look like a mosquito net use in short garments.Power net: use in Hajack lamp.
Weft knitted structure: widthwise (weft wise) direction of loops is called weft knitted structure.Wales: vertical columns of loop are called Wales
Course: horizontal raw of loop is called course.
Types of knitting m/c:.
Circular knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in circular way thats why it is called circular knitting m/c. It has two needle beds. One is cylinder (vertical needles)
Another is dial (horizontal needles) Dia: maximum circle distance in a circle is called dia. Two types of dia small dia (for socks)
large dia (cutting fabric lacoste/pique)
Gauge: It means thickness. no. of gauge
Fine gauge : T-shirt (24g, 40g) Course gauge: sweater (3g, 5g)
Higher the gauge finer the knit, lower the gauge courser the knit.
Flat bed Knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in flat way thats why it is called flat bed knitting m/c. It has two needle beds.
-Technical front (T.F)
- Technical back ( T.B)
It is also called Jacquard m/c.
Integrated garments: without any stitch or linking in garments. without any join, seamless garments.Shem seiki: Shem seiki is first producer of whole garments in Japan. Company name is also known as brand.
-Ladies shirt is known as ladies blows.
- Heavy knitwear means sweater.
Why it is called fully fashion?
Fully fashion: Fully fashion is a method / technique of shaping a knitted structure by increasing or decreasing the number of needles or wales.
In the fully fashion there is no fabric formats. Just it is made by increasing or decreasing the shape of end product, increasing or decreasing of needles.
Advantages of fully fashion:
we can produce zero(less) wastage garments.
Less manpower.
we can produce quality garments/sealed garments.Disadvantage:
Textile fiber: anything that can be garments/originated from fiber.
In narrow sense: Textile means fiber to fabric production. ie fiber yarn fabric
In greater sense: fiber clothing
Fibers are chemical/natural structure that can be spun into yarn.Basic requirements for fibers:
Based on sourcing:
Textile fiber
Natural Chemical made Animal (wool)
Plant/vegetable (cotton) Acrylic
Fiber: any types of substance but the length and thickness ratio is very high.
Thickness and length ratio 1:800, 1:1000 etc
Major properties of fiber:
1. Mechanical properties:
Abrasion resistance
Flexibility
Stiffness.
2. Absorption properties: this is a measure of quality of water vapors, liquid water etc.
ie water absorption. Water/oil release. 3. Thermal properties: The behavior of textile in the presence of heat or when exposed to a flame.
- Heat resistance capacity. - Soften and melting.
Fiber identification test:1. Burning test: Wool Acrylic Cotton Flammability Not flammable highly flammable flammableBurning smell hair burning smell petrol burning smell paper burning smell
2. Chemical test: (-) alkalies (+) alkalies (+) alkalies (+) acids (+) acids (-) acids poor resistance in alkalis
good resistance in acids
3. Microscopic test:
Based on length:
Fiber
Staple Filament
Acrylic Short Long (2000 mtr) Cotton Wool
(1.27 6.34 cm) (3.8 cm)Textile yarn:
Yarn: twisted form of fibers is called yarn. ASTM: American society of textile materials.
ASTM definition of yarn: A generic term for a continuous strength of textile fibre is called yarn.
Classification of textile yarn:
Textile yarn
Span Filament
Simple complex/ fancy/ vovelty
Mono Multi
Single Plied
Cords cables Flat TwistedVisual properties: -Mono
- Multi
- Staple
- Two ply yarn
- Multi ply yarn
- Cord
- Cable
Span yarn: Twisting together of staple fiber.Single yarn: consists of just one stand of fibre.
Plied yarn: are art formed by twisting together two or more single.
Cords: are made by plying / twisting together by plied yarn.
Cables: are produced by plying cords.
Complex/ fancy: This has special effect on.
Slub yarn: contains partially bulky / fluffy.
Loop yarn: this yarn requires a base yarn (core yarn) around which fancy or effect yarn is warped.
Wool yarn: Sheep (fleece of sheep)
Lower part upper partVarious levels: Pure wool: 100% wool
Virgin wool: raw wool
Blended wool: 70% wool & 30% acrylic
Basic properties of wool:
It is heavy due to bulky fiber
Dull in appearance
Strength is very poor
Poor resistance in sunlight and heat.
Cool and low steam use
Insects from poor resistance
React in alkalis
Shrinkage.
End use: Fully fashion, shut.
Acrylic: Acrylic is known as acrylonitrile which we get from acetylene of ethylene.
Acrylic is also known as cheaper substitute of wool.
Basic properties of Acrylic:
Light shining
Good strength
Comparatively low worm
Not react in sunlight.
First look bright but second it creates boblin.
Especially in heavy weight.
Cotton:
10 g, 12 g ------ Buyer prefer
Cotton yarn -------summer or spring
-------Fashion & Requirements
Basic properties of cotton:
Smooth and fine
Cool feeling
Strength medium to high
Insect dont like.
Disadvantages:
Low resistance
End use: Knit, woven, fully fashion, inner and outer garments.
Yarn use in fully fashion:
Basic yarn Fancy Farm
-100% cotton -chenille----Not wash
-Mixed cotton - Cashmere
-100% wool -Angorn
-Blended wool - loop Yarn / Popcorn
-100% acrylic - Tape yarn
-Acrylic mlange - Nep yarn.
- Mohasre
Chenille: cotton Chenille Acrylic chenille
lurcx chenille ---
Feather chenille -----
Rainbow chenille---- Space dyed -------- FadeCashmere kvj 100% acrylic
Rabit ----------- Angorn ------Neps -------- Boblin Woven garments:Fully Faison Expensive but profitable also
Fabric
Cutting
Sewing --- washing
Pressing
Finishing
Production flowchart of fully fashion knit wear : yarn receive from textile
Yarn inspection (Random basis)
Winding
Yarn cone distribution to the knitting operator
Knitting section
Knitting inspection
- In process &
- End process.
Linking section
Linking inspection
-In process &
-End process
Linking continue / trimming section Mending
Washing hydro extracting and drying
Processing
Finishing1. labeling
Name 1
Size -2
Care 2etc
2. Button hole Button Cutting
3. Hang tog pricing attaching
4. Folding
5. primary packing
6. Secondary packing
7. Quality audit by quality control team
8. Final packing
9. final inspection done by buyer responsibly by A Q L method10. Ready for export
Hank
Cone Cotton
Inspection -- Color and weight
Lab deepColor requirement depend on buyer
4 panels5 panels -----Cardigan.
Weight
Production Merchandising
1. Yarn quantity
a. Material quantity
b. Type of gage
Material: - 1. Strong yarn /Good strength
2. Less strength. (Chenille)
Gage: Normal gage 3g, 5g, 7g (16,1bs + 4%)
Fine gage --- 10g, 12g ---- (16,1b + (4+1) %) (Shadel +1%)
1. Why we weight the yarn?
If not weight the yarn then worker miss use the yarn. In distribution room blog/protection because any worker could not entered the distribution room.
Fully fashion m/c
- Less manpower
- Quantity
-Design low
Knitting process is depend on design chart
Heart of the sweater production operator could not idea about actual design chart .So they could not say how to design it. They learn if with experience not scientific way.
7 gage: - 7 needles exist in per inch.
Fabric fault in fully fashion: -
1. Hole
2. Laddering3. Ply mistake --- yarn broken.
Why we women worker in mending section?
Here is poor salary and women are expert in mending and they have biological support.
Tremble drying m/c.
Boiler ----- Steam iron.
Different types of stitches / Design used in fully fashion Basic category: -
1. Jersey stitch Fancy category
2. Rib stitch -- shaker / Half cardigan stitch.
3. Double jersey --- Full cardigan stitch
Cables:- --Milano stitch
1. Normal -- Tuck stitch
2. Fancy --printal stitch
3. Butterfly -- Zigzag stitch
-- Drop knit stitch .
Diamond:-
1. Normal
2. Fancy
Stitch An intermeshed loop.
Describes different types of stitches / Design ------
Jersey / Single jersey/single knit / plain knit / basic knit etc.
This is very basic knitting construction .Its a single beded structure .The needle diagram of jersey is ------------
The stitch diagram is ------
It can produce both in flat bed 4 circular bed m/c-
Properties of Jersey stitch:-
Appearance: - In single Jersey both side are different in appearance.
Out look:-
T/M: V Shape stitch /jersey stitch.
T/B: Semi circle stitch /Are stitch.
Edge curling : it curls T/B to t/B
T/B to T/B in width wise
Length wise wilts wise
Strength: - Tightness and looseness activity.
Yarn tension T/F to T/B G curl -Unbalanced fabric because back side no needle.
Carling so worker take time to linking and producing extra time.
How to reduce the curly:-
1. After knitting and before sewing /linking by using parching. (Light knit circular knit swach)
2. Use folder /attachment
3. Use standard m/c
Dimensional stability: - Because of single jersey dimensional stability in poor.
S.J garments do not washable.
How to reduce the dimensional stability?
1. To increase loop density
2. Apply resin finish chemical resin use properties shaf t - Soft ness
- Estability / elasticity.
Elasticity:-Length and width wise elasticity is same because course and wales wise loop length almost same.
Unraveled: we can unroalled this structure in both side.
How ladering defect create
1. Needle head broken.
2. Loose tension.
3. Knot in the yarn.
Rib knitted structure:- The word rib derives from animal rib. This is a double beded structure. The needles heads are not facing directly each other. There are various types of rib knitted structure.
But very common structure is 1x1 & 2x2 rib; above3x3, 4x4 etc are known as fancy rib. But 6x6 rib is known as specially Derby rib.
The needle diagram of 1x1 ribs and stitches diagram of 1x1
The needle bed of 2x2 and stitch is can produce both flat bed and circular bed knitting m/c.
Appearance: - Same in appearance.
-semi circle loop can be observed between in v shape. Edge curling: Rib structure does not curl at the edge. Its balanced structure.
Dimensional stability:-Dimensional stability is good.
Elasticity:-width wise direction is high than that of length wise.
Why width wise elasticity high?
-Semi circle width is high, so width wise elasticity high. Unraveled from close it only.
Density: - Density is high in temperature in single jersey.
End use : - waist band, collar, cuff or total sweater. we can use by rib fabric.
High rib under garments, because elasticity and comfort ability.
Similarities between the single jersey and rib Structure.
1. we can produce the Single Jersey and Rib fabric in similar flat bed and circular bed knitting m/c.
2. Both types fabrics are knitted structure.
3. Both fabrics are mend able.
4. created by loop formation.
Double jersey / Interlock/ Double faced fabric:
If the plain stitches are one bedded, the other fabric structure is known as double jersey / interlock.Its double bedded fabric, can produce both in flat bed & circular bed knitting m/c. The needle diagram of double jersey is ------and the stitch diagram is ------
It is called tight knitted. Theoretically needle heads are kept face to face but practically needle heads are not face to face. It stay little bit in angle.
Properties and appearance.
1. Both side similar.
2. Curl: Double jersey does not curl because it very tight knitted fabric.
3. Dimensional stability good..
4. Unraveled : Same as rib.
5. Elasticity : Poor
6. Defecting: It laddering occurs. We cant mending like rib & jersey.7. Density : Density high because both side needles are active.
Thickness & elasticity consider while identifying double jersey.
End use: Sweater
Gents & ladies wear
Light knit. Sports wear ( suet absorbency high, dimensional stability high )
Ladies shirt.Similarities between D/j and rib :
Basic knit Both can made in flat bed circular bed m/c. Both fabrics both side appearance same Does not use. Dimensional stability good. Unraveled: Both are same.Difference between D/j & Rib 1. Needle diagram
2. Stitch diagram -
3. elasticity -
very poor
high (width wind)
4. density
High
Comparatively low
5. Weight
high
low
6. Mending
Not mend able mend able
Notation for knitted structure :The symbol which represent different types of loops are called notations. There are two types of symbols. We use to identify different structure like
Indicate technical face (v) loop Indicate technical back loop.So for single jersey -Impotency :
1. Language variation avoided
2. Different name confliction avoidance.
3. Loop drawing is difficult and time consuming to avoid this problem
Process break down (operation break down) of a fully fashion knitwear:Step by skip (body panel)
Select & setting needles for bottom rib .
By needle selection for sleeve panel:
Prepare rib height
By going coursers
Loop transfer from
for saddle
for raglan for straight
Back needle bed to
sleeve
Sleeve
Sleeve
Front needle bed
If the body is in search
For jersey setting by loop transfer comb
Knit up to am hole start point
Pre pare arm hole by decreasing or
Decreasing or increasing both processes.
Also prepare back drip and reached up to
Neckline shoulder line.
Identification of different types of fancy stitches/design
1. Shaker/Half cardigan stitch:
a. Normal construction 1X1 rib, double bedded structure. T/F & T/B
b. T/F-looks bulky/Fluffy V loop
c. T/B-looks tight V loop as chain stitch
2. Full cardigan stitch :
Normal construction 1X1 double bedded both side same. Both side raised V shape like, but zigzag.3. Milano stitch:Normal construction double jersey ie, full needles from both side needle bed. T/F & T/B not same.
T/F looks joint V stitch like after stitch
T/B looks chain or tight V shape.
4. Drop knit:
Could be any construction, like single jersey, rib, double jersey setting . Like 5X1, 4X2, odd setting etc.
5. Zigzag :
Could be in any construction like single jersey, Double jersey. Vertical in hand driven.
Tuck stitch :
Normal construction 1X1. could be single tuck or double tuck appearance. Looks like single side honey comb both side honey comb.
Cables: There are three types of cables
Normal
Fancy
Butterfly
Cables normally jersey.
Diamond: Normal
Fancy
Double
half diamond
Needle
Pointed stitch :
Could be any construction.
Knit wear ( Fully fashion ) stitch analysis Style: Individual properties Something own.
Fashion: overall Related common geography , culture, age, sex, values, it could be varied.
What are the objective of style analysis 1. Evaluate merchandise classification.
2. Plan fashioning ( design chart/ pattern chart)
3. Calculating / setting comparative costing and pricing.
If a merchandiser fiercest the style/ fashion then he/she kept to idea about the western culture on western recent style/fashion. Why we select the different fashion?
Design Chart:It is a heart of the fully fashion and very expensive factor.
Sweater style ( based on some ) factors:
Like
1. Body style/shape
2. Shoulder style ( Arm hole style)
3. Collar style/ neck style.
4. pocket style
5. Sleeve style.
]Body style/ shape:
Shoulder style
Raglan
Saddle
Steen
drape
Shoulder
shoulder
Shoulder
shoulder
Straight
Shoulder
Sleeve style :
Sleeve less
cap sleeve
short sleeve
3/r sleeve
For both
for ladies
for both
for ladies
Long sleeve
For both
Collar style :
Make neck it
sailor neck
boat knack
Cant for
truer
Round Neck
V Neck
polo neck
Hood Neck
High neck
Graded neck
Turtle neck
V inset neck
Round neck
With roll edge
Pocket style :
Plain pocket
hexagon round
Square blind
bellow
Real flap
Fake flap fake lipwelted
inverted Box pocket
Style description :
Unisex pullover (straight bottom), mock neck, straight shoulder, long sleeve and single line diamond center front, back & sleeve jersey.
Fashioning (Design chart/pattern chart) calculation for fully fashion knitwear
What is design: Design is a creative indexer to solve a problem.What is design chart: Design chart for a garment is a visual written instruction
Design chart produce in two methods:
a) Out line method
b) Graphical method
What is the basic requirement to calculation design chart?a) Size specification (Measurement)
b) Gage type
c) Weight of the garments
Pattern: Shape create by increasing or decreasing size that is called pattern.
Art: Art is the blue print of the design.
Design: Actual shape of the thing.
Swatch: Small part of the fabric. Tension: Tight are looseness of the yarn is called tension.Buyers required weight accordingly tension setup. But in seven gage m/c 8 or 6 needle coming for tension. So tension selection in important because it is related to quality.
Swatch identification:
Excremental swatch wash dry pressing keep 24 hours rest 24 hours actual mesurment yarn effect colour fastness, responsibility etc. Idea counter swatch compare.
4 16=4 WPI
4
4---------12=3 CPI
4
We can create design chart according to the measurement.
Calculate the fashioning sequence for the following knitted panel:
Back panel/Pant
Say 7 Tension
WPI= 3
CPI= 4
A-A1= 10
B-B1= 20
C-C1/D-D1 = 20
A-B= 10
B-C= 12
C-D= 2
For Rib fabric
Water / Needle 3x20= 60
Course
4x2= 08
Body Position
Needle
3x20= 60
Course
4x12= 48
Raglan sleeve
Needle
3x10= 30
Course
4x10= 40
Calculate Decreasing needle
60
30
30/215 one side decrease
No of count
40
No of 7 needle
15/40/2 (-1) = (15-10)
30
5
10
Raglan sleeve panel:
Say tension
WPI= 3
CPI= 4
Cuff rib
Needle
3x14= 42
Course
4x16= 64
Welding:
Needle 3x18= 54
Course 4x16= 64
A10+1= 2
B11+12= 4
Narrowing:
Needle 3x6= 18
Course 4x12= 48
A2-1= 6
B3-1= 12
Front panel /Part
Say tension:
WPI= 3
CPI= 4
For bottom rib
Needle 3x14= 42
Course 4x2= 8
Widening:
Needle 3x20= 60
Course 4x18= 72
A.8+1 = 9
Straight:
Needle 3x20= 60
Course 4x2= 8
A2-1= 6
B3-1= 12
Narrowing:
Needle 3x8= 24
Course 4x16= 64
a.3-1 = 8
b.4-1 = 10
Calculation of fashioning for the following knitted panel:
Say tension
WPI= 18
CPI= 20
Bottom rib
Needle = 18x9= 162
Course =20x2= 40
Widening:
Needle = 18x19= 342
Course =20x16= 320
a.3+1 = 40
b.4-1 = 50
Straight:
Needle = 18x19= 342
Course =20x2= 40
Font panel / part
Say tension
WPI=8
CPI=10
For bottom rib-1
Needle=8x14= 112
Course =10x220
Widening
Needle =8x20= 160
Course =10x16= 100
a.6+1 = 8
b.7-1 = 16
Narrowing
Needle =8x4= 32
Course =10x10= 100
a.4+1 = 20
b.5-1 = 4
Calculating yarn consumption for fully fashion knitwear
What is consumption?
In the garments trade, consumption means quantity of raw materials with a view to determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, raw materials, sewing thread, accessories are required to produce a garments up to the exporting is called consumption.What is the unit of consumption: lb/oz
What are the requirements of calculation consumption?
-Material quantity
-Type of gage
-Business type of factory / buying house
-Weight of garments
Two types of yarn
a) Good Yarn
b) Poor Yarn.What types of buying house exist?There are three types:A) Direct order
B) Liago office
C) Corporate office: factory exist
Types of gage
a) Normal gage: 3g, 5g, 7g
b) Finer gage: 10g, 12g
Garments weight :
Weight
Factory Wastage
Gage
chaining16 lbs/oz+6%
(10/12)g
8% buying house
Why buying house select wastage 8%
Calculating pricing / costing for fully fashion knitwear:
What is the objective of costing?
Basic requirement to calculating pricing
Understanding-
Styling
Designing
Type of gage
Production / delivery time (Season)
Payment mode
Basic types of buying house/factory.Season calculation
Type of gage Pick Off Pick
3g, 5g, 7gMarch-August September
10g, 12gSeptember, February, March
August
Pricing:
Costing + Profit = correct selling price
Direct + indirect cost include calculation actual CMC.M range based on gage
Type of gage Off pickPick
3g$17/Dz$19/Dz
5g$18/Dz$20/Dz
7g$19/Dz$21/Dz
(10/12)g$22/Dz$24/Dz
Styling charge:
For Shaddle or Raglan shoulder : $ 0.50/dz Set- in or drop shoulder : $ 0.25/dz Straight shoulder : No charging additional.Designing charge:
For -Diamond
Normal Diamond -$ 1.00/line/dz
Fancy diamond -$1.50/line/dz
For-Cable
Normal cable -$0.25/line/dz
Fancy cable -$0.50/line/dz
Butterfly cable -$1.00/line/dz
Mens pullover with crew neck, raglan shoulder., 3(three)line normal diamond at font back side line butterfly, sleeve side line fancy cables, long sleeve weight 16 lbs/dz, acrylic yarn 3 gage shipment 30th June. FOB mode shipment, for factory.Required costing /pricing for fully fashion required yarn cost.
16 +16% = 16.96 x $1.50=$25.44
C.Mcost
=$19.00
Style cost
=$0.50
Design cost
=$1.00
3 line diamond 1x3 = 3 1 line butterfly 1x1=1 = $ 1.00 2 line fancy cable .50x2 = 1 Trims and accessories = $ 4.00
Banking, logistic and commercial = $ 4.00
Total cost = $ 57.00/Dz
For 1 Step by step ( sleeve panel
Select and setting for cuff rib by needle selector.
Prepare rib height by giving courses.
Linking (R/side)
Right shoulder joining left shoulder joining
Attach color rib
Link skive to body panel
Side seam linking
End of operation
Fitted waist mans only
Cardigan for unisex
A line shape for ladies only
Straight bottom for unisex
SW-1
SW-2