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5 | Contents
CONTENTSIntroduction 6
Northern France 8The fishing ports, apple orchards and dairy farms of Brittany and Normandy offer up some heart-warming classics, while Lorraine’s much-loved baked goods date from centuries ago. In Paris, the classic bistro cuisine includes some of the country’s most iconic dishes.
Central France 90 Discover the heart of France, where some of the country’s most rewarding gastronomic experiences are found among the vineyards of Burgundy, where wine is the most essential ingredient. Meanwhile, the River Loire offers a bounty of dishes, from creamy desserts to easy-to-bake cakes.
Southwest France 164From the walnut groves of the Dordogne valley to the spicy menus of France’s Basque country, the southwest offers an enormous variety of produce, including the region’s famed poultry, used in classic stews and delicious roasts.
Southeast France 218The sun-ripened vegetables of Provence combine to create some of the Mediterranean’s most vibrant dishes, while the hearty cuisine of the mountains soothes the soul. In France’s gastronomic capital Lyon, the menus tell stories of days gone by.
Recipe sources 284
Index 286
Acknowledgements 288
6 | Introduction
No other nation’s cuisine has given as much to the world as France. It’s a country where food is the very glue that binds society together, where restaurants were invented and where the term ‘cuisine’ was first coined. Served the world over, French food conjures up images of sophisticated bistros in Paris and sun-drenched terraces in Provence, with such iconic dishes as beef bourguignon and lemon tarts bringing people the taste of France wherever they are.
Trace these dishes back to their source and you’ll find a treasure trove of stories, told by passionate cooks, chefs and bakers. They’ll tell you about the produce grown in their land, the legends that accompany the recipes, and the generations of families who have perfected these recipes over centuries.
We’ve gathered together 63 recipes that tell those stories, with the help of the people who know them best. The dishes, from simple starters to sophisticated desserts, are drawn from France’s wonderfully varied geography, climate and terrain, which results in a bounty of produce from the wild, western tip of Brittany to the golden shores of Provence.
The French term that describes the total of these conditions is terroir and, as any chef will tell you, it is as important for raising cattle and
growing vegetables as it is for making wine. Each region’s terroir dictates its regional culinary identity, which is why, for example, you find dairy-rich dishes in Normandy, wine-infused stews in Burgundy and vibrant vegetables at the heart of Provençal cuisine. Even Michelin-starred chefs, whose reputations may be national or even global, are bound to the terroir of their region and use produce that is grown nearby, sometimes just a few steps from the kitchen door, just as it was in homes centuries ago. Although kitchens have modernised and a variety of food has become readily available, many of the best chefs will still use ingredients and techniques that were born in simpler times, because flavours and combinations have been perfected over centuries and still make the mouth water.
Of course, French food is renowned for its sophistication, its elegance and its multiple accolades, including the revered Michelin stars, but what all chefs and cooks will tell you is that good food is what brings people together here, whether it’s a family around the dinner table, a group of friends at a restaurant or the chance for neighbours to chat over the boulangerie counter and the market stall. Restaurants play a big part in the daily tempo of life here, with families working together to serve their customers, while cooks at guesthouses make their tables d’hôtes (hosts’ tables) a chance for guests from around the world to share some of French cuisine’s most rustic dishes.
These dishes may well lead you on a journey to discover the foods in the places they originate, as well as try them at home. So whether the recipes inspire you to make a simple cake to share with friends over coffee, or an ambitious dish for a dinner party, there is something here to fit every occasion and all are provided by chefs and cooks who are passionate about their food, their ingredients and their region.
Bon appétit!
INTRODUCTION
7. Gale�e Breton
12. Kouign Amann
2. Sardine pâté
1. Cauliflower soup andpickled onions
15. Strawberry andyuzu macaron
9. John Dory& apricot
3. Baked Camembert
13. La Teurgoule
8. Poulet de la Vallee de l'Auge
14. Apple and rhubarb tart
4. Ramequins trois fromages
16. Madeleines
10. Quiche Lorraine
3
102
7
01
012
15
913
814
4
16
See Enlargement
Lyon
MetzCaen ReimsRouen
Dijon
Brest
Rennes
Amiens
Calais
Troyes
Dieppe
Limoges
Le Mans
Cherbourg
La Rochelle
Clermont-Ferrand
Nantes
PARIS NANCY
LE HAVRE
ROSCOFF VIRE
ALENÇON
COMMERCY
QUIMPER
DOUARNENEZ
Bay of Biscay
English Channel
NORTH SEA
Franche-ComtéCentre
Bourgogne
Bretagne
Rhône-Alpes
Lorraine
Auvergne
Picardie
Limousin
Pays de la Loire
Poitou-Charentes
Champagne-Ardenne
Basse-Normandie
Île-de-France
Haute-Normandie
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
FRANCE
UNITED KINGDOM
NETHERLANDS
England
LUXEMBOURG
BELGIUM
JerseyGuernsey
Wales
18. BabaArmagnac
17. Ile Flo�ante
6. Soupe à l'Oignon
11. Gratin Dauphinois
5. Bague�e19. Creme Brulee
6
19
5
11
Seine
7e
11e
6e
5e
1er
4e
8e
3eRight Bank
14e
Le Marais
Le� Bank
FaubourgSt-Germain
Latin Quarter
Montparnasse
PARIS18
Northern France
17
12e
13e
15e
16e
9 | Northern France
NORTHERN FRANCEThe fishing ports, apple orchards and dairy farms of Brittany and Normandy
offer up some heart-warming classics, while Lorraine’s much-loved baked goods date from centuries ago. In Paris, the classic bistro cuisine includes
some of France’s most iconic dishes.
CRÉMEUX DE CHOU-FLEUR, SAINT-JACQUES
CARAMÉLISÉES, PIGLENS DE ROSCOFF
Cream of cauliflower soup, with caramelised
scallops & pickled Roscoff onions
CAMEMBERT AU FOUR, FLAMBÉE AU
CALVADOS Baked Camembert,
flambéed with Calvados
RILLETTES DE SARDINES
Sardine pâté
RAMEQUINES AVEC TROIS FROMAGES
NORMANDS Ramekins with three
Normandy cheeses
BAGUETTE French bread
SOUPE À L’OIGNON GRATINÉE
French onion soup
GALETTES BRETON Breton pancakes
POULET DE VALLEE DE L’AUGE
Auge Valley chicken
LE SAINT PIERRE AVEC GIROLLES ET
ABRICOTS John Dory with chanterelle
mushrooms & apricots
QUICHE LORRAINE Quiche lorraine
GRATIN DAUPHINOIS Dauphinois potato
gratin
KOUIGN-AMANN Butter cake
LA TEURGOULERice pudding
three ways
TARTELETTE POMME RHUBARBE
Apple & rhubarb tartlet
MACARON À LA FRAISE ET YUZU Strawberry yuzu
macaron
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1 2 3 4
8765
9 10 11 12
151413
MADELEINES Madeleine cakes
page 72
16
ÎLE FLOTTANTE‘Floating island’
BABA À L’ARMAGNAC Brioche-style cake with
brandy
CRÈME BRÛLÉE Crème brûlée
page 76page 82
page 86
191817
11 | Northern France
There can be few areas of France more spoiled for choice of ingredients than the northern tip of the Finistère département (county) in Brittany: not only is its port town of Roscoff known for the sweet, pink onions made famous
by the ‘Onion Johnnies’, but the area is rich in other produce. In the fields that lie around the pretty harbour town, artichokes, cauliflower and asparagus grow in plentiful supply.
'I call it a big garden,’ says Loïc Le Bail, who returned to his native Finistère after several years training with top chefs in Paris. ‘There’s a strong history of growing vegetables and there is so much here. As well as the fish and the seafood, there are lots of different seaweeds that we use in the kitchen. It wasn’t till I came here that I got to know these products. In Paris, there’s nothing like that.’ Central to his recipe is the cauliflower, ‘I use a summer cauliflower, it’s smaller and has a subtler flavour,’ says Loïc. ‘The flavour is stronger in the winter.’
Also in his recipe is the product for which locals hold most pride: the Roscoff onion. It’s celebrated throughout the town with a festival every August, there’s a confrérie (a brotherhood, or guild) devoted to promoting them, and even a small museum dedicated to the Onion Johnnies’ history. So what makes them so special? ‘When you look at a Roscoff onion,’ Loïc says, ‘it’s handsome, it’s nice and round. You feel like biting into it, like you would an apple. You can eat it raw, too, as it’s quite sweet.’ Despite his passion for the ingredient, Loïc explains it doesn’t have to be the central ingredient to his dishes, ‘I don’t think of it as a vegetable, it’s a condiment,’ he says. Pickled, the onions provide the pièce de résistance to his dish: the sweet, sharp taste cuts through the smooth and welcoming flavours of the soup and, together, it’s the perfect recipe to encapsulate this beautiful corner of Brittany.
CRÉMEUX DE CHOU-FLEUR, SAINT-JACQUES CARAMÉLISÉES, PIGLENS DE ROSCOFF Cream of cauliflower soup, with caramelised scallops & pickled Roscoff onionsThe stereotypical image of a Frenchman – with a striped jersey, a bicycle and a string of onions– is thanks to the Onion Johnnies of Roscoff who came to England in the early 20th century to sell their delicately f lavoured pink onions. Here, they’re combined with caulif lower to produce a deliciously warming soup.
Chef // Loïc le Ba i l Location // Hôtel Brit ta ny, Roscof f
12 | Northern France
CRÉMEUX DE CHOU-FLEUR, SAINT-JACQUES CARAMÉLISÉES,
PIGLENS DE ROSCOFFCream of cauliflower soup, with caramelised
scallops & pickled Roscoff onionsFor the pickled onions
1 Peel the Roscoff onions and slice them thinly. Put them in a bowl of white vinegar for two hours, then drain and blot them on absorbent kitchen paper. The vinegar should be pink, having taken the colour from the onions. Set the pickled onions aside to garnish the soup.
For the soup
1 Cut the cauliflower into large florets. Bring a pan of water to the boil, add a sprinkle of salt and the cauliflower florets, and cook for ten minutes. Drain and set aside.
2 Melt the 40g of butter in a casserole dish, add the chopped onion, the garlic and the cauliflower florets.
3 Mix together the milk and single cream, then pour into the casserole dish to just cover the cauliflower. Simmer for 15 minutes then blitz the mixture with a hand blender/liquidiser.
4 Add the thick cream, heat through and add salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper.
5 In a separate pan, fry the scallops in 2 tbsp of butter for one minute on each side.
6 Serve the soup in a dish, placing the scallops, pickled onion slices, croutons and springs of chervil on top.
Serves 6
Preparation and cooking time: 45min (not including soaking time for onions)
For the pickled onions3 small Roscoff onions500ml (17½fl oz) white vinegar
For the soup1 medium-sized cauliflowersalted water, for boiling cauliflower40g (1½oz) butter, plus 2 tbsp for frying scallops1 large onion, finely choppedtip of a garlic clove (approx 2mm/¾in)250ml (8¾fl oz) milk250ml (8¾fl oz) single cream300ml (10½fl oz) thick creamsalt, to tastepinch of cayenne pepper12 scallopscroutons, to servechervil (or half flat-leaf parsley /half
tarragon), to serve
Tip For a midweek meal, the soup can be served
without the scallops. Loïc prefers to add a pinch of cayenne pepper, rather than black
pepper, as it gives a warmer flavour.
‘Why onion “Johnnies”? Well, because back then, all the men were called Jean-this, or Jean-that, so the
English just started calling them all “Johnny”.’ Loïc Le Bail
49. Salade Lyonnaise
55. Quenelles
61. Fondue
60. Tartifle�e
54. Soupe au Pistou 59. Tartare de Caviar d'Aubergine
58. Bouillabaisse
53. Provençal aperitif
57. Wild boar and chestnut stew
50. Salade Niçoise
56. Ratatouille 51. Socca
52. Pissaladiere
63. Crepes Suze�e 62. Tarte au Citron
60
61
5549
54 59
5358
57
5056 52 51
63 62
Nimes
Toulon
RoanneAnnecy
Grenoble
Montpellier
Saint-Etienne
Aix-en-Provence
LYON
NICE MONACO
MARSEILLE
Golfe du Lion
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
Rhône-Alpes
Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur
Auvergne
Languedoc-Roussillon
FRANCE
ITALY
SWITZERLAND
SoutheastFrance
219 | Southeast France
SOUTHEAST FRANCEThe sun-drenched vegetables of Provence combine to create some of the Mediterranean’s most vibrant dishes, while the
hearty cuisine of the mountains soothe the soul. In France’s gastronomic capital Lyon , the menus tell stories of days gone by.
SALADE LYONNAISE Lyon salad
SALADE NIÇOISE Salade niçoise
SOCCA Chickpea pancake
PISSALADIÈRE Caramelised onion tart
APERITIF PROVENÇALE Provençal dips &
vegetables
SOUPE AU PISTOU Pesto soup
QUENELLES DE BROCHET À LA
LYONNAISE, SAUCE NANTUA
Pike dumplings & crayfish sauce
RATATOUILLE Ratatouille
SAUTÉ DE SANGLIER À LA CHÂTAIGNE Wild boar stew with
chestnuts
BOUILLABAISSE Provençal fish stew
TARTINE DE CAVIAR D’AUBERGINE
Aubergine & hazelnut dip on grilled aubergine
TARTIFLETTE Reblochon, bacon &
potato gratin
FONDUE DE BEAUFORT
Beaufort cheese fondue
TARTE AU CITRON Lemon tart
CRÊPES SUZETTE
Flambéed crepes with orange butter sauce
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page 276
page 280
49 50 51 52
56555453
57 58 59 60
636261
287 | Index286 | Index
A Anjou cream cheese dessert 145–147 apple & rhubarb tartlet 63–65aubergine & hazelnut dip on grilled aubergine 265–267Auge Valley chicken 39–41
B baguette 27–29baked Camembert, flambéed with Calvados 19–21Beaufort cheese fondue 273–275boeuf bourguignon 125–127 bouillabaisse 259–263bread, cakes and pastries, see also desserts baguette 27–29 madeleine cakes 73–75 cheese pastries 109–111 Nantes cake 153–155 savoury cheese loaf 113–115Breton pancakes 35–37brioche-style cake with brandy 83–85butter cake 55–57
C caramelised onion tart 233–235 cassoulet 195–199cheese dishes baked Camembert, flambéed with Calvados 19–21 Beaufort cheese fondue 273–275 goat’s cheese mousse 101–103 ramekins with three Normandy cheeses 23–25 tartiflette 269–271cheese pastries 109–111cherry flan 201–203chicken dishes Auge Valley chicken 39–41 chicken breast stuffed with bacon & foie gras 189–193 cold chicken with Dijon mustard 129–131
M madeleine cakes 73–75 moules marinières 181–183
N Nantes cakes 153–155
P pears in red wine 157–159 pesto soup 241–243 pike dumplings & crayfish sauce 245–249potato, Dauphinois gratin 51–53Provençal dips & vegetables 237–239
Q quiche lorraine 47–49
R ramekins with three Normandy cheeses 23–25 ratatouille 251–253red mullet with Bordeaux sauce 177–179rice pudding three ways 59–61
S salads salade lyonnaise 221–223 salade niçoise 225–227 tomato salad 97–99sardine pâté 15–17savoury cheese loaf 113–115snails with butter & parsley 105–107soups cream of cauliflower, with caramelised scallops & pickled Roscoff onions 11–13 French onion 31–33 pesto 241–243 tomato, chilled 97–99
coq au vin 133–135chickpea pancake 229–231chocolate mousse cake 213–217Cointreau-flavoured soufflé 149–151coq au vin 133–135 cream of cauliflower soup, with caramelised scallops & pickled Roscoff onions 11–13crème brûlée 87–89crêpes and pancakes Breton pancakes 35–37 chickpea pancake 229–231 flambéed crêpes with orange butter sauce 281–283
DDauphinois potato gratin 51–53desserts, see also bread, cakes and pastries Anjou cream cheese dessert 145–147 apple & rhubarb tartlet 63–65 brioche-style cake with brandy 83–85 butter cake 55–57 cherry flan 201–203 chocolate mousse cake 213–217 Cointreau-flavoured soufflé 149–151 crème brûlée 87–89 fluted rum & vanilla cakes 209–211 honey dessert 161–163 île flottante 77–81 lemon tart 277–279 pears in red wine 157–159 rice pudding three ways 59–61 strawberry yuzu macaron 67–71 sweet tart with dried fruit filling 137–139 tarte tatin 141–143 walnut cake 205–207duck filo parcels with vegetable terrine 167–169
Eeggs, poached in red wine sauce 121–123
F filo parcels of duck & vegetable terrine 167–169fish & seafood bouillabaisse 259–263 John Dory with chanterelle mushrooms & apricots 43–45 moules marinières 181–183 pike dumplings & crayfish sauce 245–249 red mullet with Bordeaux sauce 177–179 sardine pâté 15–17 white fish with white wine butter sauce 117–119flambéed crêpes with orange butter sauce 281–283 fluted rum & vanilla cakes 209–211 French onion soup 31–33frogs’ legs with garlic cream & parsley 93–95
G goat’s cheese mousse 101–103
H honey dessert 161–163
I île flottante 77–81
J John Dory with chanterelle mushrooms & apricots 43–45
L lamb, roasted Quercy with stuffed vegetables 171–175 lemon tart 277–279
stews cassoulet 195–199 veal with Espelette pepper 185–187 wild boar with chestnuts 255–257strawberry yuzu macaron 67–71sweet tart with dried fruit filling 137–139
T tarte tatin 141–143tartiflette 269–271 tomato salad & chilled tomato soup 97–99
V veal stew with Espelette pepper 185–187
W walnut cake 205–207 white fish with white wine butter sauce 117–119 wild boar stew with chestnuts 255–257
INDEX