food snapshot - welcomheritage hotels food... · like hyderabadi food, chettinad cuisine from the...

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23 22 origin from the royal houses of Awadh (Lucknow), Hyderabad, Kashmir and Patiala, are now widely enjoyed. Even small streetside eateries have adapted them to suit the common palate. Rich culinary milieu e history of royal cuisines in India is one of varied influences. From the 13th to the 18th century, India saw the rise of Hindu and Sikh kingdoms, conquests by Turkic and Afghan rulers, the mighty Mughal Empire which had a Central Asian heritage, the arrival of European powers like the Portuguese, utappam, is said to have grown out of this creation in the Maratha courts of anjavur. is is just one story exemplifying how food that developed in the palaces and other homes of India’s erstwhile ruling families has since been integrated into the country’s mainstream menus. Not all royal pedigree dishes, however, are as down-to-earth as sambar; many of the tender, delicately spiced kebabs, slow-cooked meats, rich curries, fragrant biryanis and pulaos (rice cooked in vegetable or meat broth) that claim Shahuji, the 17th-century Maratha ruler of anjavur in Tamil Nadu, is said to have missed amti dal, a lentil stew from his ancestral homeland in Maharashtra, west India. To honour the visit of Maratha emperor Sambhaji, Shahuji had it made using local ingredients, replacing kokum (a tart mangosteen fruit extract), popular on the west coast, with tamarind, commonly used in the south coast, and pigeon peas instead of mung beans. e result was a slightly sour and spicy lentil soup. Sambar, essential to a southern Indian meal and also served with signature snacks such as dosa, idli and Food Snapshot The elaborate cuisines that developed in the palaces and stately homes of southern India are infusing regal flair and flavour into the country’s dining scene. BY ANIL MULCHANDI Facing page: kachhe gosht ki biryani, made by cooking marinated meats with rice seasoned with expensive spices like saffron, was a speciality of the palaces of the Nawabs. This page, from top: Decked out in Italian marble and objet d’art, the Falaknuma Palace Hotel has a lavish setting to match the royal Hyderabadi cuisine served at Adaa; nalli nihari, slow cooked lamb or goat shank, was a lunch favourite among Hyderabad’s nobility DINESH SHUKLA, SHOT AT TAJ FALAKNUMA PALACE Dutch, French, and the British, and trade with Persian, Arabic, East Asian and European countries. e intermingling of cultures produced an interesting culinary heritage. Under British rule during the 1800s and early 1900s, chefs called khansamas and bavarchis were employed to refine the cuisine for royal repasts and lavish entertaining. ere are many stories surrounding exotic ingredients used in the palace kitchens, the huge demand for skilled khansamas, some of whom would specialise in just one dish, the attention to detail that went into creating each meal, and exquisite gold, silver and porcelain dinner services. According to Aman Tandon, an executive chef with the Pride group of hotels, the Muslim Nawabs or rulers enjoyed foods that drew from Persian and Indian influences. Kebabs like the melt-in-the- mouth galaouti and kakori, elaborate pulaos and biryanis and desserts such as the creamy bread pudding shahi tukra, were created for the Nawab of Awadh. ese have since become part of any meal in Lucknow, which was the capital of Awadh. e conversion of palaces and castles to heritage hotels in northern states like Rajasthan has also brought much of the specialities of the Maharajas and feudal lords to the regular dinner menu, such as the suley (mutton) kebab and laal maas (mutton or lamb curry). While the cuisines of the north have been much touted, interest in the foods of the southern states is relatively more recent, despite the fact that the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maharajas of Mysore, Travancore and Cochin on the Kerala coast, and the Raja of Sandur in Karnataka, were all among India’s premier princes. North meets South e largest of all princely states, Hyderabad produced one of India’s most sophisticated strains of Indian cuisine. Predominantly a blend of Mughal and other Indo-Muslim flavours with the food of the Telugu-speaking Andhra- Telangana region, Hyderabadi food also benefitted from Middle Eastern influences: the Nizam’s guest list included aristocrats from Persian, Arabic, Turkish and Afghan lands, and he chose wives from various noble families, including those of Turkey. But the best known contribution from Hyderabad’s royal kitchens is the kachhe gosht ki biryani, according to Arun Sundararaj, executive chef of the Taj Falaknuma Palace Hotel. “Instead of layering cooked meat and rice, the khansamas use raw meats marinated in curds, herbs and spices cooked with parboiled rice such that the juices of the meat would slowly infuse the rice.” It is said there were 28 different biryanis on the ancient royal court menu. Sundararaj adds that most Hyderabadi specialities are similar to those of northern India’s Muslim-ruled states, like nalli nihari (slow-cooked lamb trotters or shanks), raan (stuffed leg of lamb), haleem (a rich wheat, lentil and minced meat porridge), and dum murg (slow-cooked chicken), but oſten include ingredients associated with the south like tamarind, raw mango, coconut, black cumin seeds, poppy, melon seeds and spice mixes of cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Confectionery and desserts reflect Turkish and Persian influences, apparent in the use of dried fruits and nuts. Khubani ka meetha was a royal dessert made from dried apricot puree and cream blended with ground apricot kernels, while fig and pistachio are common in sweets and ice creams. Over in Mysore, the European influence is apparent at the WelcomHeritage Fernhills Palace in Ooty, the summer palace of the Maharaja of Mysore, where

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Page 1: Food Snapshot - WelcomHeritage Hotels Food... · Like Hyderabadi food, Chettinad cuisine from the aristocratic homes of Tamil Nadu has gained popularity in mainstream restaurant kitchens

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origin from the royal houses of Awadh (Lucknow), Hyderabad, Kashmir and Patiala, are now widely enjoyed. Even small streetside eateries have adapted them to suit the common palate.

Rich culinary milieuThe history of royal cuisines in India is one of varied influences. From the 13th to the 18th century, India saw the rise of Hindu and Sikh kingdoms, conquests by Turkic and Afghan rulers, the mighty Mughal Empire which had a Central Asian heritage, the arrival of European powers like the Portuguese,

utappam, is said to have grown out of this creation in the Maratha courts of Thanjavur.

This is just one story exemplifying how food that developed in the palaces and other homes of India’s erstwhile ruling families has since been integrated into the country’s mainstream menus. Not all royal pedigree dishes, however, are as down-to-earth as sambar; many of the tender, delicately spiced kebabs, slow-cooked meats, rich curries, fragrant biryanis and pulaos (rice cooked in vegetable or meat broth) that claim

Shahuji, the 17th-century Maratha ruler of Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu, is said to have missed amti dal, a lentil stew from his ancestral homeland in Maharashtra, west India. To honour the visit of Maratha emperor Sambhaji, Shahuji had it made using local ingredients, replacing kokum (a tart mangosteen fruit extract), popular on the west coast, with tamarind, commonly used in the south coast, and pigeon peas instead of mung beans. The result was a slightly sour and spicy lentil soup. Sambar, essential to a southern Indian meal and also served with signature snacks such as dosa, idli and

Food Snapshot

The elaborate cuisines that developed in the palaces and stately homes of southern India are infusing regal flair and flavour into the country’s dining scene. By Anil MulchAndi

Facing page: kachhe gosht ki biryani, made by cooking marinated meats with rice seasoned with expensive spices like saffron, was a speciality of the palaces of the Nawabs. This page, from top: Decked out in Italian marble and objet d’art, the Falaknuma Palace hotel has a lavish setting to match the royal hyderabadi cuisine served at Adaa; nalli nihari, slow cooked lamb or goat shank, was a lunch favourite among Hyderabad’s nobility

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Dutch, French, and the British, and trade with Persian, Arabic, East Asian and European countries. The intermingling of cultures produced an interesting culinary heritage. Under British rule during the 1800s and early 1900s, chefs called khansamas and bavarchis were employed to refine the cuisine for royal repasts and lavish entertaining. There are many stories surrounding exotic ingredients used in the palace kitchens, the huge demand for skilled khansamas, some of whom would specialise in just one dish, the attention to detail that went into creating each meal, and exquisite gold, silver and porcelain dinner services.

According to Aman Tandon, an executive chef with the Pride group of hotels, the Muslim Nawabs or rulers enjoyed foods that drew from Persian and Indian influences. Kebabs like the melt-in-the-mouth galaouti and kakori, elaborate pulaos and biryanis and desserts such as the creamy bread pudding shahi tukra, were created for the Nawab of Awadh. These have since become part of any meal in Lucknow, which was the capital of Awadh.

The conversion of palaces and castles to heritage hotels in northern states like Rajasthan has also brought much of the specialities of the Maharajas

and feudal lords to the regular dinner menu, such as the suley (mutton) kebab and laal maas (mutton or lamb curry). While the cuisines of the north have been much touted, interest in the foods of the southern states is relatively more recent, despite the fact that the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maharajas of Mysore, Travancore and Cochin on the Kerala coast, and the Raja of Sandur in Karnataka, were all among India’s premier princes.

North meets South The largest of all princely states, Hyderabad produced one of India’s most sophisticated strains of Indian cuisine. Predominantly a blend of Mughal and other Indo-Muslim flavours with the food of the Telugu-speaking Andhra-Telangana region, Hyderabadi food also benefitted from Middle Eastern influences: the Nizam’s guest list included aristocrats from Persian, Arabic, Turkish and Afghan lands, and he chose wives from various noble families, including those of Turkey. But the best known contribution from Hyderabad’s royal kitchens is the kachhe gosht ki biryani, according to Arun Sundararaj, executive chef of the Taj Falaknuma Palace Hotel. “Instead of layering cooked meat and rice, the khansamas use raw meats marinated in curds, herbs and spices cooked with parboiled rice such that the juices of the meat would slowly infuse the rice.” It is said there were 28 different biryanis on the ancient royal court menu.

Sundararaj adds that most Hyderabadi specialities are similar to those of northern India’s Muslim-ruled states, like nalli nihari (slow-cooked lamb trotters or shanks), raan (stuffed leg of lamb), haleem (a rich wheat, lentil and minced meat porridge), and dum murg (slow-cooked chicken), but often include ingredients associated with the south like tamarind, raw mango, coconut, black cumin seeds, poppy, melon seeds and spice mixes of cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Confectionery and desserts reflect Turkish and Persian influences, apparent in the use of dried fruits and nuts. Khubani ka meetha was a royal dessert made from dried apricot puree and cream blended with ground apricot kernels, while fig and pistachio are common in sweets and ice creams. Over in Mysore, the European influence is apparent at the WelcomHeritage Fernhills Palace in Ooty, the summer palace of the Maharaja of Mysore, where

Page 2: Food Snapshot - WelcomHeritage Hotels Food... · Like Hyderabadi food, Chettinad cuisine from the aristocratic homes of Tamil Nadu has gained popularity in mainstream restaurant kitchens

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Where To eAT:Firdaus, Taj Krishna Hotel, HyderabadA charming restaurant with chandeliers and windows overlooking gardens. Sample dum ka murgh (chicken slow-cooked in a sealed vessel) and shahi daawat, a multi-course menu of Hyderabadi fare.tajhotels.com

Adaa, Falaknuma Palace, HyderabadOne of the finest settings in which to enjoy royal hyderabadi cuisine, such as kachhi biryani and haleem.tajhotels.com

Aish, Park Hotel, HyderabadThis upscale restaurant boasts décor to match the era of the Nizam. Try shikampuri kebabs (mutton kebabs with yoghurt filling). theparkhotels.com

Jewel of Nizam, Golkonda Hotel, HyderabadAs its name suggests, this is the jewel in the Nizam’s dining crown. A must-try is the double ka meetha (rich bread pudding with cream and garnished with nuts). thegolkondahotel.com

Raintree, Vivanta by Taj Connemara Chennairaintree offers cuisines of the chettinad region and its neighbouring kingdoms.specialities include kuruvapillai year (curry leaf dish with meat), and kozhi melagu (Chettinad-style chicken pepper fry). vivantabytaj.com

Jamavar, The Leela Chennai Don’t miss the chemmeen varutharacha curry (prawns in roasted coconut and Chettinad spicy curry). theleela.com

chefs turn out family favourites that are largely Anglo-Indian or Indo-European.“The most popular creation from the Mysore royal kitchen is the Mysore pak,” says Purshottam Naidu, corporate sous chef at The Leela Palace Hotel in Bangalore. It is said that a palace cook named Kakasura Madappa created this sweet using gram flour, sugar and ghee (clarified butter). The Maharaja liked it and popularised it as the state sweet of Mysore. Today, the Mysore pak is widely available not only in sweet shops of Mysore but elsewhere in India, too.

Spiced varietyLike Hyderabadi food, Chettinad cuisine from the aristocratic homes of Tamil Nadu has gained popularity in mainstream restaurant kitchens. The royal house of Pudukkottai and the mansions of the affluent mercantile Chettiar community of Sivaganga district enjoyed distinctive fare. Food was made using spices such as dried flower pods called maratti mokku, star anise and a species of lichen

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known as black stone flower or kalpasi in addition to tamarind, whole red chillies, fennel seed, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, peppercorn, and fenugreek, which are used in other Tamil cuisines. According to Avinash Mohan, executive sous chef of The Leela Palace Chennai, meats like

lamb or mutton are popular, as are fish and seafood, poultry and, before hunting was banned in India, game like hare and quail. Dishes are spicy and pungent,

and may be topped with boiled eggs. Rice is a staple and used also

for making dosas or string hoppers called idiappam, which are classic

accompaniments to meals in Chettinad’s palaces and mansions.

Middle Eastern nuancesTracing the history of Kerala, one discovers that during the medieval era, the Zamorin of Kozhikode commanded trade with Arabic countries, bringing Middle Eastern influences to the foods of the Malabar coast. The Portuguese, Dutch, French and British established their rule, also influencing the cuisine. After the British took power, Travancore and Cochin were the two princely states of Kerala. But though Travancore was on the coast, the Rajas were pure vegetarian and excluded onion and garlic from their diet. “Yam, long beans, lady finger,

colocasia, tender coconut and milk products were used in many dishes,” says Dinesh Lal, executive sous chef of The Leela Kovalam, a beach resort set around the seaside palace of Travancore. The resort’s Royal Travancore menu includes dishes adapted for the contemporary restaurant like chunna cheera avial (red spinach with cumin and coconut), parippu (cumin and coconut tempered lentil curry) and karikku paysa, a dessert made from tender coconut cooked with clarified butter, jaggery and milk.

Vivanta by Taj Kovalam, too, claims royal pedigree for dishes like karikku masala (tender coconut cooked in spices) and anchila thoran (a curry with five leafy vegetables) that form part of its Travancore menu. Until recently, cuisines of noble provenance were often associated with exclusive – not to mention expensive – fare, an indulgence enjoyed only amongst elite circles. But steadily, India’s restaurants have been whetting appetites with reinventions of royal cuisines, while seducing senses with the thematic décor, traditional utensils and dining formalities to match their resplendent history – nicely seasoning India’s food scene with a dash of sovereign heritage.

Facing page, from top: Welcomheritage Fernhills Palace, the summer abode of the Maharaja of Mysore; savour parippu, a coconut and cumin lentil curry, a Kerala speciality. This page, clockwise from top left: Sweets from the Taj Krishna Hotel; haleem, a meat porridge served during ceremonial occasions in India’s Muslim-ruled states; khubani ka meetha, a rich and creamy apricot dessert popular among the aristocracy of India’s Muslim states; The Leela Kovalam’s lavish interiors