florence news&events october issue

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Palazzo Strozzi Presents Divine Beauty

PAGE 2City Prepares for Pope’s Visit

PAGE 9Jeff Koons’ SculptureDisplayed on Piazza Signoria Until Dec. 28

PAGE 3

News & Events

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www.florencenewsandevents.com October 2015

As cold winds and chilly nights announce the beginning of the fall, Florence keeps her energy up with events of all kinds. Several art exhibitions will accompany the beginning of the season. The show Prince of Dreams features Medici tapes-tries that have not been togeth-er in 150 years. The tapestries, commissioned by Cosimo de Medici in the 16th century, tell the story of Joseph as told in the book Genesis. The exhibi-

tion “Magic of Blue” regails the history of lapis lazuli, including Cosimo I’s acquisitions, while the continuing exhibit Divine Beauty — which will be hon-ored by Pope Francis in Novem-ber — features artists from van Gogh to Munch to Matisse. Dis-played on the Palazzo Vecchio are the sculptures of American artist Jeff Koons, including one exhibited in PIazza della Signo-ria until the beginning of De-cember. October also houses

two beloved food festivals. The 52nd annual Marradi Chestnut Festival invites visitors to taste countless delicacies centered around the brown nut, includ-ing cakes, candies and savory foods, while those with a sweet tooth can make their way to the 20th edition of the Perugia Eu-roChocolate Festival (#Musta-Choc) that will begin mid-Oc-tober. Music fans should buy their tickets now for the Dave Mat-

Creativity Festival wraps up month with art and funthews Band concert on October 18. In the sport’s world, October could be the month in which the dream of football fans to see Fiorentina competing for premiership of the League is re-alized. The month will end with the fourth annual Florence Cre-ativity Festival in which Floren-tines and foreigners alike can practice their hand at a wide variety of crafts.

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Jeff Koons’ Sculpture on Display at Piazza della Signoria until Dec.28

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CONTACT [email protected]: + 39 380 90 44 142

Carlo Dolci: 1616–1687Until November 15

Palatine Gallery, Palazzo Pittiwww.unannoadarte.it

Until Jan. 2410a.m. to 8p.m., Thursdays

10a.m. to 11p.m.+39 055 2645155 ; info@

palazzostrozzi.org

Reservations: +39 055 2469600 ; [email protected]

Carlo Dolci on Display

After the restoration of 33 works by Carlo Dolci, the Palatine Gal-lery is hosting an exhibition on the famous Florentine painter until November 15. The exhibit provides an opportunity to deep-en knowledge of Dolci’s painter-ly technique, which included a range of highly original methods, such as the application of gold dust to create a nuanced effect for haloes. An artist lauded by the critics and biographers of his day for produc-ing works unique to their genre, Dolci (1616–1687) was popular with members of the Medici fam-ily and the European aristocracy, distinguishing himself with the masterly definition of his figures, which were often captured in poses of ecstasy, and his devoted attention to details. Describing Dolci’s ability to paint jewels, his biographer Filippo Baldinucci wrote that they were “imitated in such an astounding (and real) fashion that, however much one might touch the canvas to make sure that they were in fact painted, the eye still harboured doubt.”

The exhibition showcases works taken from some of Florence’s leading museums as well as re-nowned public and private inter-national collections, including the British Museum in London, the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the Staatliche Museen in Berlin, the Nationalmuseum in Stockholm, the Cleveland Museum of Art in Cleveland, the Alte Pinakothek in Munich, the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge, the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, Burghley House near Stamford, the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Brest, the Mu-seo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Ma-drid and the Royal Collection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who has loaned Dolci’s fabulous Salome with the Head of St. John the Baptist for the occasion, which has never been shown in Italy be-fore.

Palazzo Strozzi Presents Divine Beauty

Palazzo Strozzi is presenting the exhibition Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana which will run from Sept. 24 to Jan. 24, with Pope Francis expect-ed to attend the conference that will held in Florence from Nov. 9 to 13.The show, which explores the relationship between art and re-ligion from the mid-19th to the mid-20th century, includes over 100 works by famous Italian and international artists including Edvard Munch, Pablo Picasso, and Henri Matisse. The exhibit includes celebrated works such as Jean-François Millet’s Ange-lus, on exceptional loan from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, Vincent van Gogh’s Pietà from the Vatican Museums, and more.The exhibition ranges from Re-alism to Divisionism to Expres-sionism. Its objective is to analyze a century of modern religious

art and to highlight different in-terpretations of the relationship between art and religion. Divine Beauty will provide visitors the opportunity to compare famous works of art in a new and different light.The idea for the exhibit came from a joint venture between the Fon-dazione Palazzo Strozzi, the for-mer Soprintendenza Speciale per il Patrimonio Storico, Artistico ed Etnoantropologico e per il Polo Museale della città di Firenze, the Archdiocese of Florence and the Vatican Museums.

Exhibit awaits Pope Francis’ ‘benediction’

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Florence News & Events

Jeff Koons SculpturesUntil Dec. 28

PIazza della Signoria

Between Michalengelo and Donatello

Mona Lisa’s Remains “Very Likely” Found

Jeff Koons’ Sculpture on display at Piazza della Signoria until Dec. 28

A sculpture by American artist Jeff Koons is currently exposed in front of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria between a copy of Michelange-lo’s David and a copy of Donatel-lo’s “Judith and Holoferne.” Titled “Pluto and Proserpina,” the sculp-ture stands 3.2 meters tall and is made of mirror-polished stainless steel with a transparent gold color coating and live plants, and will be on display until Dec. 28. It is the first time in nearly 500 years that a sculpture has been displayed in the square, the last being Baccio Bandinelli’s sculpture “Hercules and Cacus,” which was completed in 1534.“It’s an honor for me to have been invited to Florence to represent contemporary art and to have one of my works displayed between Michelangelo and Donatello,”said Jeff Koons.Other works by Koons will be on display in Palazzo Vecchio’s Sala dei Gigli until Dec. 28.Koons is known for reflections on the eternity of beauty and in-stability of life, along with bold provocations. His art is known in-ternationally and has sold for high prices. Koons’ art can be found next to the creations of Michelan-gelo and Donatello. The show, “Jeff Koons in Flor-ence,” was organized by the Flor-ence-based cultural association Mus.e with the contribution of the Chamber of Commerce, Moret-

ti Fine Art, and David Zwirner. It also inaugurated the Internation-al Antiques Biennial last month.“I wanted to affirm the perempto-ry and the generosity of the mir-ror surface and the joy that trig-ger balls like these,” Koons said. “The Gazing Ball series is based on transcendence. The awareness of his own mortality is an abstract thought, and from this discovery one starts to have greater aware-ness of the outside world, their families, the community, can es-tablish a broader dialogue with humanity beyond this.”Curated by Sergio Risaliti, the ini-tiative will present in particular two works by the artist, including the three-meter-high sculpture in Piazza della Signoria.

The technology to determine if the DNA of the human remains re-cently found in a Florence convent are those of Leonardo’s model for the famous Mona Lisa’s painting still does not exist, experts said last month. The statement came after the release of the results of carbon-14 tests on one of three batches of bones that have been dated back to the period of Lisa’s death in 1542.“There are converging elements, above and beyond the results of the carbon-14 tests, that say we may well have found Lisa’s grave; I’m talking of historical, an-thropological and archeological analyses that have been carried out very rigorously,” said lead re-searcher Silvano Vincenti. “We can’t provide absolute cer-tainty that some of the remains examined are Lisa’s but the like-lihood is very high. I have to say that many historians would have stated this was Lisa on the basis of written records, with many fewer elements and without scientific data.”According to Vincenti, it will take several more years to invent the technology to confirm the dis-covery but that, when invented, this could even provide informa-tion on the color of eyes, hair and skin of the remains of the people found and possibly solve a centu-ries-long mystery. Scientists will be able to digitally reconstruct how the model looked like when the remains of the model will be found.

Baptistery and Museum of the Works of the

Cathedral to Reopen

The Baptistery and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Museum of the Works of the Cathedral) are scheduled to reopen to the public after restoration on Oct. 25 and Oct. 29, respectively, just in time for Pope Francis’ November visit. The Baptistery took two million Euros and 18 months to restore, while the Museum required more at 31 million Euros and two years. The restoration involved the ex-ternal marble cladding, roof, and lantern.

“It was a conservative intervention aimed at removing the layers of scale and polluting substances, in addition to consolidating and re-defining the marble elements that had deteriorated over time,” said a spokesperson of the Museum of the Works of the Cathedral, the institution in charge to preserve and enhance the monuments of the Dome complex.The work will completed in time

for the Fifth National Ecclesial Convention which will be held in November. Pope Francis will at-tend.The Baptistery is one of the oldest buildings in the city. It was con-structed between 1059 and 1128 in Florentine Romanesque style, whose influence was decisive for the subsequent development of architecture and formed the ba-sis from which architects such as Francesco Talenti, Leon Battista Alberti, and Filippo Brunelleschi, among others, invented Renais-sance architecture.The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo will reopen with an exhibition presenting the works of the most important collection in the world of sculpture, sacred medieval and Renaissance Florentine master-pieces such as Donatello, Michel-angelo, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Luca della Robbia, and many more.

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Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devotion

Until November 3 Medici Chapels Museum

Open daily: 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m.(Closed on 2nd & 4th Sunday: 1st, 3rd & 5th Monday of each month)

Cost: €8; €4 reducedwww.polomuseale.firenze.it

Palazzo Pitti Silver Museum

Piazza de’ Pitti 1Tickets:

Full price: € 7,00Reduced ticket: € 3,50

The Medici Chapels Museum is presenting the exhibition Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devo-tion. On display until November 3, the exhibition showcases the Medici family’s collection of sacred and precious objects, commissioned by Cosimo II and Maria Maddale-na of Austria, which were once of-fered to religious sanctuaries and the state. Some of these devotional items were even offered to shrines far beyond the family’s rule in Tusca-ny, which include those of Loreto, the Holy Land and Goa, India.The priceless gifts, which have not been revealed to the public

Medici Devotion Showcasedsince 1945, include votive crowns, mounts for altars, chalices, mon-strances, reliquaries, candle-sticks, holy wreaths, crosses and altar panels among many other valuable pieces. Such treasures are not only in-dicators of the family’s uncondi-tional devotion towards religion, but also reflect Medici wealth, culture, taste and undisputed eco-nomic and political prestige over Tuscany as a whole. The range of precious stones skillfully worked into gold, silver, crystal and other precious mate-rials also provide insight into the sophisticated and high level of craftsmanship achieved during

the era. The exhibition, preceded by Sa-cred Splendor at the Medici Trea-sury and The Other Half of Heav-en at the Casa Martelli Museum, completes the series of these three major displays dedicated to devo-tional themes.

Palazzo Pitti’s Cucinone reopens

Visiting the Medici Kitchens

Silver Museum Presents Magic Blue

The restoration of the Medici kitchen complex, the so-called cu-cinone, has been completed and is open to public only through guid-ed visits by Palatine Gallery per-sonnel from Tuesday to Sunday (10:30–11:30 a.m. and 3:30–4:40 p.m.). The restoration began earlier this year and cost approximately €100,000. With their fireplaces, ovens, sinks, and various utensils, the kitchens were originally built in the years between 1588 and 1599, in time for the celebrations of the mar-riage between Maria de’ Medi-ci and Henry IV, King of France, and were used to prepare food for three dynasties of Italian nobility: the Medici, Lorraine, and Savoy families.In the period between 1631 and 1640, the kitchens became part of the building complex, while in

The exhibition “Lapis Lazuli: The Magic of Blue” hosted at the Pala-zzo Pitti’s Silver Museum is run-ning until Oct.11. Items on display include vases, goblets and am-phorae, inlaid furniture and table counters.The exhibit retraces the use of lapis lazuli throughout history, from its use in Ancient Mesopo-tamia to its use as a pigment in Renaissance times. Lapis ore de-posits were very rare, making it a highly sought after rock. The main deposit, and also the old-est, mentioned by Marco Polo, is located in the Hindu Kush moun-tains in Afghanistan. After being long forgotten in the Middle Ages, Renaissance-era Florence helped lapis lazuli enjoy a great period of the following century, the kitchen

area underwent several important transformations in architecture. After WWII they fell into disuse and slowly deteriorated, and were even used to store furniture from the Palatine Gallery.Visitors to Palazzo Pitti are now able to explore the sophisticated aspects of everyday living that took place in its grand rooms and monumental apartments. With the restoration complete, it is possible to envision the work that went on to prepare dinners for the Grand Duke and his guests, and view the utensils that were com-monly used in different eras. The re-opening is part of Polo Mu-seale Fiorentino’s series of exhibi-tions commemorating the Milan Expo theme of ‘Feeding the Plan-et, Energy for Life’ with a focus on Florentine and Tuscan culinary heritage.

fame. Lapis lazuli, crushed and turned into a pigment, was used from ancient times until the 19th cen-tury. It became the traditional color of Virgin Mary iconography, the symbolic color of royalty, as well as the emblematic color of the kings of France. Blue came to be considered, in the late Middle Ages, the most beautiful and no-ble of colors. The blue stone has been always regarded as one of the most precious stones in the world, like gold and silver.The exhibition also documents the use of lapis lazuli in painting. Towards the end of the 17th cen-tury and throughout the 18th cen-tury, due to a shortage of lapis, de-mand for the blue pigment soared.

The collection showcases the ex-pression of the Florentine man-nerism and focuses on both the artistic and the mineralogical side of these artifacts, that Cosimo I began to collect to be followed by his successors.

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By Mark Massey

The impact of Milan Expo is being felt in Florence, as the city serves up a platter of exhibitions and events related to the Expo’s theme of ‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life.’ The events have already been going on for several months, but October is the last month to enjoy the festivities. They are ex-pected to draw an additional one million visitors to Florence during its entire programme. Venues throughout the city are participating to showcase Flor-ence’s cultural and historical roots, starting with a modern take on Brunelleschi’s dome. Entitled I_

A ‘Taste’ of Expo in Florence

Dome, the three-dimensional in-stallation been created with video mapping and invites visitors to step into a full-immersion expe-rience in the courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio. A temporary mall known as La Casa delle Eccellenze (House of Excellence) displays Tuscan in-novation in the fields of fashion, homeware, crafts, mechanical construction and technology, alongside a series of seminars and workshops. This mall can be found in the ex-Tribunal of San Firenze, right next to the Bargello Museum. Local Bio highlights the emphasis on sustainability, where visitors

can expect to see and taste many traditional, organically produced products, while the Jellyfish ex-hibit located by the Arno River encourages visitors to think seri-ously on the issue of sustainability, reflecting largely on the concerns faced by the agricultural sector. Putting the spotlight on the Tus-can region, I Giorni del Fare (Ar-tisan Days) presents guided tours of select regional companies that are different by virtue of their cul-tural, historical and traditional heritage. Towards the end of the Expo an international forum entitled Grani e Pani (Grains and Bread) takes place at Orsanmichele, once

Florence’s granary. Aside from hosting experts on grain-milling, bread-making and ancient gains, it also includes book presenta-tions and tastings. The forum will be held at the Accademia dei Georgofili, one of Italy’s foremost national institutions, which for over 250 years has been contrib-uting to the progress of science and its application in agriculture. The meetings will be divided into four sessions: grain, flour, bread in Tuscany, and bread in Italy. Each will host a panel of sector experts: growers, agronomists, millers, and break-makers from all over the nation. They will be recount-ing ancient and modern practices, as well as presenting their experi-ences tied to family and regional identities. Until October 30th, every day of the work week there will be an itinerary from 3 to 6 p.m., start-ing with the documentary “Del-le Specie diverse di frumento e pane siccome della panizzazione.” (“On Different Species of Wheat, on Bread, and on Bread-Making.”). The presentation is enhanced by an information-teaching presen-tation that covers the three theme areas. Wheat, with a selection of samples of ancient varieties cul-tivated in Tuscany and in other regions of Italy. Flour, exhibiting different types of flour alongside models of mills and historic illus-trations. Bread, illustrating the different ways bread is made in Tuscany and other parts of Italy. Concluding the itinerary will be a collection of proverbs and folk sayings relating to the exhibition’s theme. Information on all events can be found in English at www.expo-2015firenze.it/en.

How to get to Expo 2015:

Reaching Milan from San Casciano is done in about three hours using public transport (the bus or the fast train).

Trains from Firenze S. M. Novella:FrecciaRossa or Frecciargento, operated by TrenitaliaItalo, operated by NTV

From the main railway stations and the center of Milan: Buses will be available to and from the Expo. Alternatively, a new railway station is going to be opened at the north-west entrance of the Expo area, servicing fast trains and regional ones.

The Southwest entrance can be reached by metro Linea 1.

For more information, visit the official Expo 2015 website: www.expo2015.org

THEENGLISH THEATRE SHOW

IN FLORENCEBEHIND THE SCENES OF THE MEDICI FAMILY

From Wednesday to Sunday at 7pm | Piazza San Lorenzo, 6Advance purchase 26€ | Student discount Student discount 17-20 €

www.medicidynasty.com | [email protected]

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NEWSOCTOBER 2015


The Ascent of Orpheus:Bargello Hosts Adi Da Samraj

For the second time in its 150-year history the Bargello National Mu-seum is hosting a solo contempo-rary art show by American artist Adi Da Samraj (1939–2008). The exhibit is Samraj’s retelling of the Orpheus and Eurydice myth. Through nine large-scale pieces and a multimedia projection, it shows Samraj’s radical approach to “aperspectival, aniconic and anegoic” art. Drawn from the artist’s 2007 Or-pheus One and Linead One suites, the digitally composed works demonstrate Samraj’s reach be-yond the linear perspective and individual perspective that have dominated Western art since the Renaissance. “The abstraction of Adi Da Samraj is anti-rhetorical and aspires to restore humanity to a state of contemplation and reflection,” said Achille Bonito Ol-

iva, the internationally acclaimed Italian art critic and historian who curated Samraj’s official collateral exhibition at the 2007 Venice Bi-ennale.Adi Da Samraj created visual, lit-erary and performance art for more than 40 years with the in-tention of creating works to draw the viewer beyond the feeling of ego separateness into that of “pri-or unity.” His art encompasses drawings, paintings, sculptures and a large body of groundbreaking photo-graphic, videographic and digital-ly composed work. Samraj’s work also appeared in solo exhibitions at the 2007 Ven-ice Biennale and Florence’s Og-nissanti, and in galleries in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and Amsterdam.

“Adi Da’s pursuit of the spiritual

The Ascent of OrpheusUntil October 11

Bargello National Museumwww.daplastique.com

paths found in early abstraction, from Kandinsky to Mondrian, and his translation of that pursuit into the digital age, restore a tran-scendental spirituality to the ma-terialism of the machine aesthet-ic,” said Peter Weibel, Chairman of ZKM Center for Art and Media in Karlsruhe, Germany.In addition to being a prolific artist, Adi Da Samraj was also a widely recognized spiritual teach-er who produced many volumes of literary, poetic, practical, phil-osophical and spiritual writings. His foundation has brought the legacy of Adi Da Samraj to audi-ences around the world.

By Mark Massey

Last few days to attend the exhibit presented by the Accademia Gal-lery and the Order of Friars Minor Franciscan Art: Masterpieces of Italian art and Asian lands from the 13th to the 15th centuries. The exhibit highlights the success of Franciscan art throughout Asia and sets out to illustrate the flow-ering of art directly related to the Franciscan movement between the 13th and 15th centuries. The works showcased are not on display solely for their Franciscan iconographic value but also be-cause they were commissioned either by Franciscan friars or by private citizens who nurtured a special devotion for the saint.Crucial importance attaches to the work of Giunta di Capitino, the Franciscan Order’s first official painter, whose influence spread throughout vast areas of central

Franciscan Art in Asia

Italy and the first half of the 13th century.Of particular interest is the sec-tion hosting some of the earliest devotional portrayals of St. Fran-cis and illustrating the most fa-mous events in his life, joined in this section by a similar panel from the Civic Museum of Pis-toia and by the St. Francis with Two Stories from his Life and Two Posthumous Miracles, attributed to Gilio di Pietro, from the Dioc-esan Museum in Orte, which has been restored expressly for this exhibition.

Franciscan Art: Masterpieces of Italian art and

Asian lands from the 13th to the 15th centuries

Until November 10Accademia Gallery

Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

Exhibit extended until Nov. 10

7OCTOBER 2015www.florencenewsandevents.com


NEWS

Open Art Hosts FabbriIl Ponte Presents Jan FabreA collection of works by Agenore Fabbri (1911-1998) is on display un-til the end of November at the Open Art Gallery in Prato. The collection represents a small but significant view of the influential Italian paint-er, sculptor and ceramist. Entrance is free. The exhibit focuses on the pro-duction of Fabbri from 1957-1965, featuring 30 pieces between sculp-tures and paintings. Fabbri’s art is characterized by a high dramaticity, a consequence of the suffering deriving to the artist from the experience of World War II. His intense expressionism caresses and revisits the wounds of the war.

By Emily Baqir

The Contemporary Art Gallery Il Ponte is presenting the exhibit

“Knight of the Night” by Jan Fab-re. The exhibit showcases a series of works by the belgian artist re-alized from 1997 to 2013 that have the common theme of Chivalric romance. Main characteristic of Fabre’s art is that the viewer is invited to a meta-morphosis, in the specific case of this exhibit that of the tragic chi-valric eroe, to reach the infinite po-tential of each person. As the viewer, the artist himself enters with his body into his artworks confronting with the body of others in an at-tempt to metabolize them.

“I want to become what I live and become what I want to become changing shape different times, liberating myself of feelings and emotions already experimented, looking for new ones through new

Italian and international contem-porary art galleries including the Italian Galleria del Milione, the Gal-leria del Naviglio, Studio Marconi, as well as galleries in Madrid, Paris, Munich, London, New York, Boston and Tokyo. He has also participat-ed in some of the most important Italian fairs, including four editions of the Venice Biennale and sever-al editions of the Quadriennale di Roma. His works are displayed in some of the principal museums in the world, including the MART muse-um, Rovereto, GAM, the Museo del Novecento in Milan, the Uffizi Gal-lery, the Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston, the Kunst Museum in Bonn, the Brooklyn and the MoMA in New York City and the modern art museums of Copenhagen, Graz, Munich and Sao Paulo.

Knight of the Night Exhibit to Run Until Dec. 18

bodies,” is Fabre’s motto. The works presented aim to invite the audience to a dialogue, as the viewer is asked to ‘enter’ into the body of the work, transcending himself and his mental and phys-ical limits becoming the principal subject of a metamorphosis.All the art of Fabre refers to the hu-man body, its fragility, and its pos-sible defense. His fascination with the human body and for science dates back to his youth, a period from which, influenced by the re-search entomologist Jean-Henri Fabre (1823-1915), the Belgian art-ist’s favorite activity was to examine the insects and other animals by dissecting their bodies and turning them into new creatures. In Fabre’s conception of metamorphosis the existence of man and animals in-teract continuously. According to the artist, the representation of the

body and spiritual senses, and the creation of various types of bodies in their transformations, is dictated by the natural cycle of growth and decay. The entire art of Fabre is conceived in the name of beauty, as an ‘exer-cise’ in which we all celebrate life as a preparation for death.

Galleria Il Ponte

Via di Mezzo, 42 / b - 50121 Florence

Hours: Monday / Friday 4:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Saturday during the exhibition 11:00 to 19:00, or by appointment

Closed on holidaysPhone : (+39) 055 240617Fax : (+39) 055 5609892

Email : [email protected]

Open Art GalleryUntil November 21

Free Admission

15.00-19.30 Monday - Friday

10.30-12.30 / 15.00-19.30 Saturday

Born in the small town of Barba in the province of Pistoia, Tusca-ny, Fabbri began his art career by working with ceramic and terracot-ta, eventually moving on to bronze and wood. In the early 1980s, he dis-covered painting, favoring oils and acrylics. In the last “phase” of his career, Fabbri focused on ‘recovery’ materials, such as sand, stones, rags, and more.Fabbri has been one of the most important contemporary Italian artists, having exposed in the main

8 OCTOBER 2015www.florencenewsandevents.com


NEWS

Lucy David

A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously un-known theorems hidden in Leon-ardo’s mechanical designs, shed-ding light on the full scope of his genius.Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabri-ele have spent decades construct-ing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collabo-ration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and six-teenth centuries. The rigor of practical and me-chanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s ap-proach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such as his fa-mous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. How-ever, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be lim-ited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies. In his studies for a European Com-mission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the me-chanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, al-lowing artisans to create individ-

Realizing Leonardo’s Projects Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs

The Machines of Leonardo da VinciMichelangiolo Gallery

Leonardo da Vinci MuseumVia Cavour, 21

Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m.Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced);

€3 (groups of 15 or more).Entrance, snack and drink

promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.).

055 295 264www.macchinedileonardo.com

ual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact that Leonardo’s codi-ces have been split up and reas-sembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artis-tic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war. Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic ad-justments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a se-ries of self-locking mechanisms. A deeper understanding of Leon-ardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological inno-vations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of

Syracuse, which Leonardo adapt-ed to his own context. His modi-fication of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so re-duced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it.The Niccolai family has been re-constructing working models of Leonardo’s designs since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private col-lection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 300 working models created by him-self and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, histo-rians and architects. The models have been displayed

at more than 100 international ex-hibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on perma-nent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Gal-leria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour. Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scu-ba-diving apparatus, glider, bicy-cle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing de-votion to realising the vast inheri-tance that Leonardo left to science.

Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the techno-logical level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our the-ories and contributes to study in-depth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.” Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million purchase of the Leicester Codex indicates, we have much to be grateful to Leon-ardo for: next time your car gets a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for inventing the jack.

Leonardo’s designs on display include the aerial screw (used in today’s helicopters), human robot, hydraulic drill, scuba-

diving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight,

lifebuoy and jack.



NEWS

Francis in Florence on Nov. 10.Pope Arriving

Visiting the Papal Villas

Bar Owner Proposes

Tourist Fee for Venice

By Marine Le Canne

Pope Francis will be coming to Florence on Nov. 10. The Pope will remain in the city for three days as Florence will be the venue of the Italian Church Forum — orga-nized by the CEI — and the Italian Bishops’ Conference — hosted by the Archdiocese at the Fortezza da Basso. The Pope will be visiting institutions that deal with chari-ties and the poor. This will be the first time that a Pope comes to Florence since 1986, when Pope John Paul II vis-ited the city. The Pope’s visit will coincide with the opening of the Divine Beauty exhibit at the Pala-zzo Strozzi, part of a program of events devised to run concurrent-ly with the Fifth National Bishops’ Conference. Pope Francis will visit the Baptistery and the Ca-thedral, make his speech to the participants of the Fifth Nation-al Bishops’ Conference at 10 a.m.,

Tourists that visit the Vatican will now be able to take a train to loca-tions formerly closed to the public, thanks to an agreement between the Vatican Museums and Italy’s state railway carrier. This will include the Vatican’s Apostolic Palace and papal villas outside of Rome.The train service will take visitors from the historic Vatican Station to inside the Papal States and to-ward Castel Gandolfo and Alba-

The owner of the famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, Arrigo Cipriani, proposed last month that tourists pay to visit the city in order to help combat damage caused by over-crowding and littering.Cipriani made his proposal to the local newspaper La Nuova di Venezia, saying that the payment system should be located on Free-dom Bridge, which connects Ven-ice to the mainland, with free pas-sage for Venetians only.

“Everyone feels they have a right to make a mess. Tourists see that the city is disgusting and so they don’t feel bad about adding their bit,” Cipriani said, adding that he was shocked by a tourist who was re-cently filmed jumping nude into the Grand Canal.

Siena Reveals Floor of its Dome

Described by Giorgio Vasari as “the most beautiful, grand and magnif-icent” pavement ever created, the floor of Siena Duomo is currently on view until the end of October for its annual unveiling to the public.Although usually covered to pro-tect it from the cathedral’s hordes of visitors, it was revealed a full month earlier this year to com-memorate Milan Expo.Famous for both its intricate inlaid work and themes regarding the search for knowledge, the pave-ment was begun in the fourteenth century and continued over the course of 500 years until the nine-teenth century. The floor was created using en-graving techniques and variously hued local marble ranging from yellow to grey and green. The ini-tial designs for the 56 inlays were produced by important artists, al-most all from Siena, including Sas-setta, Domenico di Bartolo, Matteo

di Giovanni, Domenico Beccafu-mi, as well as the ‘foreign’ painter Pinturicchio from Umbria, whose Monte della Sapienza is famous for its symbolic representation of the path to virtue through inner seren-ity. Domenico Beccafumi’s frieze of Moses Drawing Water from the Rock was created using his innova-tive technique of colouring marble by tinting the base instead of using different pieces of stone. A catalogue is available detailing the iconography of the entire floor, as well as audio guides and multi-media tablets that enable closer ex-amination of details that are other-wise difficult to see.

Siena Duomo Floor Until October 27

Mon to Sat: 10:30 a.m.–7 p.m.Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.

Tickets: €7/€12/€15/€20 (depending on sites selected)

www.operaduomo.siena.it

and then will go to the Basilica of Santissima Annunziata where he will meet the disabled of the Op-era assistance. At 1 p.m., on the same piazza, he will have lunch with the poor in the refectory of St. Francis, run by the Caritas foundation before a reprieve af-ter lunch in the archbishopric. At 3:30 p.m., he will say mass at the Artemio Franchi Stadium before returning to Rome.The city is expecting the event with great impatience. An exten-sion of the tourist season, usually ending at the end of October, is also expected.

no Laziale, right outside of Rome, where the papal villas are located.

“The pontifical villas, for a cen-tury inaccessible secret summer papal residences, will be open to the public and arriving by train, the most ‘of the people’ and dem-ocratic mode of transport,” said Antonio Paolucci, director of the Vatican Museums.

“As an art historian, I think of the visitors’ amazement when they see the splendor of these villas.”



Florence Creativity Returns for Fall 2015 Edition

Creativity never ends, especially at the fall edition of the Florence Creativity Festival that is taking place at the Fortezza da Basso next month from Thursday, Oct.29 to Sunday, Nov. 1.The fair, now in its fourth year, includes events, courses and ex-positors presenting new ideas, techniques and materials, and is a not-to-miss event for all of those who feel passion in their hands and those who are interested in developing and investing in the art of ‘do-it-yourself.’Fabrics, buttons, paints, brushes, needles, threads, glues and paper

will be the tools through which anyone will be able to stimulate his or her creativity. The cours-es offered include painting on silk with all its techniques, home decor, cutting, sewing, creative sewing, crochet, knitting, repairs, weaving for children and adults alike, creative workshops for chil-dren, creating bracelets, bijoux and necklaces, processing wool, painting and so on, as infinite are the ways human creativity can ex-press itself.One of the initiatives that was at the last edition that thrilled the most was the Creative Zoo, a pan-

el to create a zoo following given patterns that can be downloaded from the fair website: www.flor-encecreativity.it.Tickets cost €10 for adults and €5 for children. A ticket for the four days of the fair cost €16. Entrance is free for children younger than 10 and for accompanies or dis-ables. Groups of more than 10 people will pay €5, for each group bigger than 20 people, a free tick-et will be given to the organizer. Those interested in becoming expositors can find a form in the fair website. Opening hours at the event are from 9.30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Explore a Bohèmièn Marketplace

Country-style, shabby chic, restyl-ing, party planner, home decor, vintage, workshops, dreaming artists and... aspiring dreaming artists. These are the ingredients of The Bohèmièn Marketplace, the core event of the Florence Creativi-ty festival that takes place next month at the Fortezza da Basso. The Bohèmièn Marketplace is where exhibitors release their creativity, creating magical atmo-spheres through fabric, glue, wire, and various other materials. This is where participants can find experts teaching short cours-

es giving lessons on the secrets of dexterity, how to use classic and innovative creative techniques, create frames, lace and precious fabrics, and transform old objects giving them a new and romantic light.

The Bohèmièn MarketplaceOctober 29-November 1

Opening hours: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.Tickets: €10

www.florencecreativity.it

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LITERATURE

BIBLIOTECA GABINETTO G.P. VIEUSSEUX

Piazza Strozzi055 28 34 2

www.vieusseux.fi.it

BIBLIOTECA MARUCELLIANA Via Cavour, 43

055 21 06 02 // 055 21 62 43 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m.www.maru.firenze.sbn.it

BIBLIOTECA MEDICEA-LAURENZIANA

Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9055 21 07 60

www.bml.firenze.sbn.it

BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALEPiazza Cavalleggeri, 1/a

055 24 91 91 // 055 24 91 91Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m.www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it

IRIS Piazza Strozzi, Palazzo Strozziwww.iris.firenze.it/index_e.php

BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE CENTRALE

Via S. Egidio, 21055 26 16 512

www.comune.firenze.it/comune/biblioteche/comunale.htm

BIBLIOTECA DEI RAGAZZI Via Tripoli, 34 055 24 78 551

BIBLIOTECA PALAGIO DI PARTE GUELFA

Piazza Parte Guelfa, 1 055 21 47 40

www.comune.firenze.it/comune/biblioteche/ppguelfa.htm

THE UFFIZI LIBRARY 055 23 88 647

Tuesday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesday: 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

Thursday-Friday: 9 a.m.-1 [email protected]

MAIN LIBRARIESFar Away From Home:Nostalgia and Nostalghia

By Lee Foust

Milan Kundera’s begins the sec-ond chapter of his most recently translated novel, Ignorance (2002), with an etymological exploration of the word “nostalgia.” He writes,

“The Greek word for ‘return’ is nostos. Algos means ‘suffering.’ So nostalgia is the suffering caused by an unappeased yearning to re-turn.” However, other European languages have terms with a sim-ilar meaning, but different roots:

“In Spanish añoranza comes from the verb añorar (to feel nostalgia) which comes from the Catalan en-yorar, itself derived from the Lat-in word ignorare (to be unaware of, not know, not experience, to lack or miss).” These observation launch the novel’s primary study: two expatriate protagonists’ rela-tionship to the land they left be-hind during the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia in 1968 and to the new, liberated Czech Repub-lic, to which they have been able to return since the collapse of the Soviet empire in 1989. As a theme, though, the novel uses its charac-ters as a jumping off point to dis-cuss the nature of calling a place home, the way places change over time and how our memories of those places become new places, and longing in general.I, myself, am an expat American living in Florence, so the novel resonated with me despite the fact that my emigration was in no way forced but a matter of choice—as much as anything in life is chosen.

It also brought to mind a much-loved film, exiled Russian direc-tor Andrei Tarkovsy’s Nostaghia, a similarly-themed study of a Russian poet in Italy researching the life of a nineteenth century composer who studied music in Bologna. Both Kundera’s novel and Tarkovsky’s film may well in-terest any émigré, but particularly our ever growing and changing community of non-Italians here in Florence.While both works strike a rath-er tragic tone and perhaps evoke the algos more than the nostos or expatriatude, both are ultimate-ly cathartic, I think, particularly in terms of the lingering survival guilt associated with abandoning one’s homeland. While the expa-triate does lift him or her self out of a continuum—often conquer-ing narrow-minded provincial-ism and xenophobia—we are also always somewhat suspect to those we leave behind. We are simul-taneously feted as prodigals and branded as deserters when we re-turn home. The very word “home” rings with accusation when my mother inadvertently drops it during my annual California vis-its. The new ambivalence of the word “home” is what Ignorance and Nostalghia evoke and there is no easy solution to the problem of such linguistic ambivalence.If you’ve read either of Kundera’s masterpieces The Unbearable Lightness of Being (1984) or Immor-tality (1990), you’ll find yourself on familiar ground with Ignorance.

Unlike the author’s first two nov-els written in French, Slowness (1995) and Identity (1998), Igno-rance returns to the easy-going post-modern style established in those earlier Czech-language novels. It presents its characters through an intrusive narrator of-ten interrupting scenes to openly discuss the themes invoked, talk philosophy, digress on correlative historical situations and figures, or to give telling etymologies. Per-

reviewed in its day—it only comes up short in comparison to Kunde-ra’s own previous work, where he set a very high bar indeed.Tarkovsky’s film Nostalghia, with its luscious Tuscan visuals (the Gothic ruin of San Galgano in the Senese and the Bagno Vignoni in the Val d’Orcia), and its consid-erably more impressionistic ap-proach, has had a bit of the oppo-site journey: beleaguered with the Soviet Union’s censorship and the tribulations of exile during his life-time, Tarkovsky’s films have only really been celebrated since his death. Underwritten by the RAI and co-written (mostly in Italian) with Antonioni’s stalwart screen-writer Tonnino Guerra, Nostal-ghia is a highly personal and spir-itual statement—the two films Tarkovsky made in exile before his untimely death from cancer in 1986 both tell the story of pro-tagonists who become convinced that a single act on their part will save humanity as the apocalypse approaches. Is this, then, the fate of the exile, of the expat? To col-lapse both time and space in his or her perception by living far away from home both spatially and temporally, or at-home in an interior ignorance, a longing born of time and distance? Do we re-ally carry the weight of the world across a dark void in the form of a candle? When I watch this beauti-ful and mysterious film I believe it. The only way to know a place is to leave it, to remember it, and some-times to long for it.

The only way to know a place is to

leave it, to remember it, and sometimes to

long for it.haps because the author is no lon-ger writing in his mother tongue, or grown a little tired of the style himself, or because he’s already written about the headier events of his own exile and its trauma in those other novels, Ignorance seemed slightly thinner than his earlier books. However, I loved the meditations on the word “nos-talgia,” how Homer’s Odyssey has constructed the theme for not only Western literature but our feelings about the topic, and was rapt by the journeys of his two protago-nists heading toward their even-tual climactic encounter with one another. The novel was very well



HALLOWEEN

Dirty Deeds and... Dire Deaths Horror Between Florence’s Bloody

Walls

By Ivana Scatola

It is said that the feast of Hallow-een originated from a merging of harvest festivals, pagan celebra-tions of the dead and most impor-tantly, as the eve before the two day Christian feast days All Hal-lows’ or All Saints’ Day (November 1), and All Souls’ Day, (November 2): a feast for the dead. With this somber theme in mind, we look back at the most famous deaths Florence has produced in its civic history, and their various sinister forms.The most famous of these is undoubtedly that of Girolamo Savonarola: Dominican friar, Florentine influential political personage and preacher. Sa-vonarola was renowned for his passionate sermons, in which he entirely condemned moral corruption and forewarned of

By Ivana Scatola

With Halloween creeping (quite literally) upon us, you can’t help but wonder about Florence’s eclectic history and the sights it must have witnessed in the past. Behind the extraordinary monu-ments and breathtaking architec-ture that comprise this city, it is inevitable that a few sinister and gory sights took place. The Bargello National Museum with its gothic Florentine archi-tecture is an ideal location for a horror film. Indeed, as one of the oldest buildings in the city — dat-ing back to 1255 — the Bargello was not always a museum. It now holds some of the city’s most pre-cious sculptures and treasures, including works by Donatello, Mi-chelangelo and Cellini. Howev-er, before 1865, the building was the headquarters for the Head of the Guards, whose responsibil-ity it was to arrest, question, and condemn criminals. By 1574, the building had been transformed into a prison, complete with tor-ture chambers.The prison witnessed important historical moments: sieges, fires and executions such as that of Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli, conspirator of the infamous Pazzi plot against the Medici family. Furthermore, as a warning and re-minder of the building’s purpose, apparently a tree stump would be

an oncoming apocalypse. He orchestrated the so-called ‘Bon-fire of the Vanities’, which was responsible for destroying thou-sands of Renaissance treasures: books, artworks (allegedly some by Botticelli), clothes and musical instruments, all set alight in an attempt to purge the city of ma-terialistic goods and temptations. After denouncing Pope Alexander VI, he was naturally excommuni-cated by the leader of the Catholic Church, and soon the city turned against him. He was arrested and imprisoned with fellow friars Fra Domenico and Fra Silvestro Maruffi, and tortured, until he confessed that he had invented seeing prophecies and visions that he had previously claimed were divine. The three friars were pub-licly hanged and then (ironically) burnt in the Piazza della Signoria on May 23, 1498, precisely where

a commemorative plaque in hon-our of the three lies today.Other famous deaths granted by the city are those of the con-spirators of the Pazzi plot against the Medici family. An attempt to overthrow the Medici family and their political hold over the city by means of the assassination of brothers Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici was dramatically carried out in the Duomo, during Mass. The attempt was not entirely suc-cessful; Giuliano was killed and Lorenzo was merely wounded, and the conspirators were humil-iated in facing their fates. Jacopo de’ Pazzi was flung from a window, and mobs dragged his naked body through the streets and threw it in the Arno. Francesco Salviati was hanged from the walls of the Palazzo Vecchio, and Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli was publicly executed at the Bargello.

placed outside the building dis-playing the victim’s head, for all to see.American writer Charles Godfrey Leland’s reports in his Legends of Florence Collected from the Peo-ple (1896), that prisoners of the Bargello were subject to horren-dous cruelty and maltreatment. He writes that when Cosimo de’ Medici was preparing the venom to poison Piero Strozzi, he would experiment on condemned pris-oners of the Bargello.Similarly, Le Murate, a notori-ous Florentine location for public housing, restaurants, bars and shops and a popular social and cultural hub, is in fact another converted prison and convent. It began in 1424 as the Santissi-ma Annunziata alle Murate and Santa Caterina convent, home to the Benedictine nuns who gave the building its name. They were nicknamed le murate (closed up, walled in) as they had chosen to lead a closed, religious life and, previous to living in this convent, had lived in cells in the walls of the Rubaconte bridge (now Ponte alle Grazie). From 1883 to 1985 Le Murate was transformed into a male prison, and incarcerated the political prisoners and partisans of World War II that were arrested by Nazi fascists.



FOOD AND WINE

Drawing From the Wine Well Understanding Chianti

Ivana Scatola James Taylor

For a wine-tasting tour with a dif-ference, look no further than Poz-zo Divino on Via Ghibellina just north of Santa Croce. Owned by Pino, well-known among students as a famous local identity, ‘Pozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well in question is now part of a cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well is seven cen-turies old and was originally built to supply water through a vast sys-tem of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of the local prison, known as the Stinche (now Teatro Verdi), that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal inten-tion to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine pro-pelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent con-dition. Pino’s sommelier training is at the forefront of Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. He imparts his impressive knowledge while taking guests

Lucy David

According to Tuscan native Gal-ileo Galilei (1564–1642), “Wine is sunlight, held together by water”. He may well have been speaking of Chianti Classico, the veritable original of the Chianti clan, which carves out its territory between Florence and Siena. Since 1924, this production zone covering 14 municipalities has been protected by the Chian-ti Classico Wine Consortium, founded to protect the integrity of the Chianti Classico label. Chianti is classified into different denom-inations depending on the area in which it is produced, and in order to qualify for DOCG (controlled and guaranteed denomination of origin) status, strict rules must be adhered to.Chianti Classico wine must con-tain grapes grown within the production zone and comprise 80–100 percent Sangiovese and up to 20 percent of approved local and international varieties. True

Pozzo DivinoVia Ghibellina, 144/r

055 24 66 907

Open from Monday to Saturday: 11:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m./ 3–7:00 p.m.

Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people)

PRICE 15€

[email protected]@pozzodivino.com

www.pozzodivino.it

Take a wine-tasting tour alongside Pozzo Divino’s 700-year-old well

around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vin-egar. Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a vari-ety of the region’s renowned Chi-anti Classico to white wines that

Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find com-prehensive information on ship-ping zones and freight costs on the company’s website.Pozzo Divino is currently offer-ing patrons a range of Christmas specials. Its cellars yield a variety of sparkling wines to toast the fes-tive season, from Italian prosecco to French Champagne, as well as local Chianti vin santo for round-ing off a celebratory meal. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, fam-ilies and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tast-ing ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepul-ciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself.Pino proudly boasts that 90 per-cent of the wines he holds are of

Chianti Classico is noted for its ru-by-red color, limpidity, floral aro-ma combined with red fruits, with a harmonious, dry and tannic fla-vor and a minimum alcohol con-tent of 12 percent. Chianti Classi-co Riserva (Reserve) may exhibit fine and spicy notes and contain a minimum of 12.5 percent alcohol.Chianti wine boasts an ancient history: the Etruscans of the re-gion were noted for their wine cul-tivation more than 2500 years ago, and historians believe that they even experimented with grafting and hybrid techniques.According to legend, the so-called Gallo Nero or black rooster be-came a symbol of the Chianti re-gion after a horse race was orga-nized by the two rival republics of Siena and Florence to decide their official borders.A cockcrow was established as the departure signal for the two horsemen in their respective cit-ies; however Florence tricked Sie-na by starving its black rooster so that it began crowing before sun-rise, enabling the Florentine rider to set off well in advance of his Sienese rival. The Florentine met his opponent a mere 12 kilometers from Siena, thereby winning the Chianti region for Florence.The Gallo Nero became a sym-bol of the League of Chianti in the Middle Ages and is now rec-ognised as the official mark of Chianti Classico Wine Consor-tium, one of the most renowned wine brands in the world.

WINE BOTTLES FILLED AT THE SOURCE IN SANTO SPIRITO

Bring your bottle to be filled for less than €1.50, straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wine in bottles or barrels sourced throughout Tuscany and Italy, as well as spirits and digestives. Il Santo Vino also provides a home-delivery service along-side selected local specialty and organic products, such as truffled goods, honey, jam, coffee and a variety of Sicilian spreads.

Opening hours: Monday: 5–9 p.m.

Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m.

Borgo Tegolaio, 46/rTel. 055 53 87 122

345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com

[email protected]: ilsantovino

Facebook: Il Santo Vino



FOOD AND WINE

Named from the Source

Medieval fast food

Fellini’s Favorite

By Chiara Fonzi

Located in the upper part of Via de’ Benci near Ponte alle Grazie, wine bar and restaurant La Buchet-ta derives its name from a long-standing local tradition of wine tabernacles, which in Florentine dialect were called “buchette.”Too small for people, too low to be used as windows, and with a consistent architectural style: a 40-centimeter door-like hole closed by a wooden shutter, crowned by an arch and framed by bricks. These are the so-called

“wine tabernacles” of Florence can still can be seen on the facades of some Florentine palaces. Al-though they are called taberna-cles, they are not of religious sig-nificance.At the end of the 16th century, northern Europe, especially En-gland, presented tough competi-

By Lara May

According to history, the smell of tripe cooking on the streets of Florence was so overwhelming that Lorenzo de’ Medici banned the kiosks altogether. However, such was its popularity that once the Medici lost power, tripe re-turned in force and has secured its place as a Florentine street food mainstay ever since. Lampredotto is a local Florentine specialty made from the cow’s fourth stomach, called the abo-masum. The name lampredotto comes, curiously, from the Italian

La Buchetta

Via De’ Benci 3/3a055 21 78 33

www.labuchetta.comL’ Antico Trippaio

Via dei Cimatori 16( Near Piazza della Signoria )

Trattoria BoboliVia Romana 45055 233 6401

Restaurant revives the history of wine tabernacles

Discover the dish that defied Lorenzo de’ Medici’s ban

‘Tasting’ Trattoria di Boboli in Oltrarno

tion to Florentine merchants, in particular in the textile markets. Because of this, Florentine fami-lies abandoned the business that had made them rich and began a more profitable investment: land. Once established, they began sell-ing their products directly to the consumer, rather than to taverns, leading to the birth of tabernacles as the means of wine vending.But where are yesterday’s wine tabernacles? Some of them have been sealed, but others can still be visited.

It was Federico Fellini’s favor-ite restaurant in Florence. It was here that the most famous Italian movie director of all time loved to spend the beginning of his nights in Florence. Rather than luxury restaurants, Fellini wanted a place that was like home for his dinners. Nestled in the Oltrarno neighbor-hood of Florence, Trattoria Boboli is on a quaint corner. It is easy to pass by the restaurant without much thought; however, with the new management, the restau-rant is making strides with new crowds of people.The restaurant was opened in 1978 by Gisberto Tamburini. However, recently, Tamburini died. Before passing away, he wanted someone

The meat is served in a Tuscan saltless bread roll (panino) with salt, pepper, chilli oil or salsa verde (green sauce), with the top slice of the roll dunked in the lam-predotto stock.Located in the Piazza dei Cimatori, L’Antico Trippaio has an impres-sive track record; it has provided Florentines with high-quality yet affordable street food for more than 80 years.

to give his most important lega-cy, the restaurant that he treated as a son. That someone had to be a person with experience that could bring on the tradition. The ultimate choice was Michael Flor-

estani, the current owner of Il Gat-to e La Volpe. So far, Florestani has revamped the menu to include favorites such as lasagna, and specialties that change every seven to 15 days and that are inspired seasonal-ly. He views his menu as simple but in season. In addition, he has opened up the garden in the back that had not been in use since the 1990’s.

word for lamprey eels, lampreda – once very abundant in the waters of the Arno River – as it resembles the inside of the mouth of a lam-prey in shape and color.

Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

SNACK BAR ANNATHE BAGEL POINT

Via de’ Ginori, 26/r055 23 81 143

[email protected]



COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students. Courses include: Market tour & cooking class, four-course dinner, easy dinner, easy lunch, home-made pasta and pizza & gelato.

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAKMon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Via dei Velluti, 18 • 055 21 76 72www.intavola.org • [email protected]

Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010www.daqueiganzi.it • [email protected]

CITY GUIDETOURIST INFORMATION

Firenze Turismo 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33Via Cavour, 1/rMon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m.(Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Comune info points below for Sunday hours.)[email protected] Airport ...........................055 31 58 74Via del Termine, 1Daily: 8:30 a.m.–8:30 [email protected] ....................................... 055 21 22 45Piazza Stazione, 4Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 [email protected] loggia .............................. 055 28 84 96Piazza San GiovanniMon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 [email protected]

EMERGENCY SERVICESPolice – emergency ..................................... 113Police – carabinieri ...................................... 112Police – municipal ...................... 055 32 83 333Ambulance ................................................... 118Fire department ........................................... 115Tourist medical service .............. 055 21 22 21Poison Center ............................. 055 79 47 819Pharmacies (open) ...................... 800 42 07 07Vehicle breakdown (ACI) ............................. 116Obstruction& towed vehicle ...... 055 42 24 142Civil protection services .............. 800 01 5 161Child abuse hotline ...................................... 114Emergency vet services ........... 055 72 23 683Environmental emergency response ....... 1515Lost & Found (Florence office) ... 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORTBUS & COACHATAF (www.ataf.net) ................... 800 42 45 00BluBlus (www.blubus.it) ............. 800 27 78 25SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ... 800 37 37 60CAP (www.capautolinee.it) ........ 055 21 46 37Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ........ 058 35 87 897TRAINTrenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) .......... 89 20 21Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ............... 06 07 08

DIRECT BUS TO PISA AIRPORT

Coaches depart from: Pisa Airport ar-rivals area, in front of the arrivals gate and Florence City Center S.M. Novella Train Station, outside the station. Jour-ney: 70 minutes.

Check page 6 or the website

APPROXIMATE FARESFlorence-Pisa Airport ................... €140Florence-Bologna Airport ............ €180Florence-Montecatini ..................... €90Florence-Arezzo ........................... €140Florence-Siena ............................. €120Florence-Livorno .......................... €160Florence-San Gimignano ............. €100Florence-Outlet Barberino ............. €65Barberino A/R+ 1 hr ..................... €120Florence-Outlet Leccio .................. €65Leccio A/R+1 hr ............................ €120Florence-Outlet Prada .................. €110Prada A/R+1 hr .............................. €160

FLORENCE AIRPORT FROM/TO DOWNTOWN

Weekdays – €20 + LuggageHoliday – €22 + LuggageNight – €23 + Luggage

Taxi Bus1 Pax €20** €6*2 Pax €20 ** €12*3 Pax €20 ** €18*4 Pax €20 ** €24*5 Pax €20 ** €30*** more €1 each bag * need a taxi

www.airportbusexpress.it

• Shampoo & dry (short) ......... €15/€16• Shampoo & dry (long) ......... €18/€20• Cut ................................................ €15• Perm ............................................. €30• Color [tips] .................................... €24• Color [full] .................................... €32• Toning .......................................... €17• Highlights with headset ............. €29• Highlights with spatula .............. €32• Woven highlights ....................... €41• Two-toned highlights ................. €62 • Shampoo & cut (men) .................. €20

Tue. to Thurs.: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.Fri. to Sat.: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

Via dei Benci, 37r055 234 48 85

HAIRDRESSING SALON IN VIA DE’ BENCI

YOUR ITALIAN FASTFOOD

YOUR ATMNEAR S. CROCE

18 r 16 rIN VIA DE’ NERI



FESTIVALS

The Sweetest Reason for a Day Trip At the Chestnut Festival

By Emily Baqir

The 20th edition of the annual Pe-rugia Eurochocolate Festival is re-turning from October 16 to 25. The festival will host the most delicious and assorted chocolate emporium with thousands of different prod-ucts presented by more than one hundred Italian and international artisans.This year’s theme, #MustaChoc, goes right along with the world’s growing fascination with mus-taches, as well as the ever increas-ing use of social media. In addition to the hashtag, the festival has also adopted the playful slogan “Eat Your Mustache.” The president of Eurochocolate, Eugenio Guarducci, hopes that

The 52nd annual Marradi Chest-nut Festival will begin on Sunday, October 4 offering visitors tradi-tional delicacies of the brown nut. The festival takes place every Sun-day in October.Per usual, food stalls will be sell-ing typical local products such as chestnut cake, chestnut jam, roast-ed chestnuts and more. A highlight of the festival will be a tasting of traditional Marradese cuisine. The meal will include po-lenta with porcini mushrooms and rotisserie meats, accompanied by local wines and sweets made with chestnuts.Food tasting and purchasing will be accompanied by be live music, chil-dren’s attractions, and illusionists. For more information contact the Tourist Office of Marradi by call-ing 055/8045170, writing to [email protected] or visit lnx.pro-marradi.it.

Bus2AlpsBus2Alps Day Trip (includes round trip, Choco Card, Mini Metro Pass, and trip leader).

At the Eurochocolate Festival in Perugia with Bus2Alps

this theme will appeal to people’s quirky sense of humor and their love of mustaches and chocolate. “Ours will be an event without equal,” Guarducci said. “The mus-tache is a retail trend. We want to tie the timeless appeal and passion of this look with the timeless ap-peal of chocolate.”Among the main attractions of this edition is the largest chocolate mustache in the world, which will be set up in Piazza IV Novembre.The mustache is also the inspira-tion for creations of all candymak-ers, which for the occasion will offer lollipops and a special choc-olate porter. Also, the ChocoStore has a new line of full cups, T-shirts, covers for smartphones and more. Products and gadgets will be avail-

able in the special temporary shop during the event, which will make its appearance in the heart of Peru-gia.Thanks to the collaboration with the Italian Festival of Mustaches of Taranto, an original exhibition to trace the history and customs of the mustache will be offered. In addition, a “contestche” will allow participants to compete in three categories of mustache: white, dark and milk chocolate. The program also includes themed parades. Men are invited to grow their mustaches in celebration of #MustaChoc.This edition of Eurochocolate will also support the global campaign launched by Movember Founda-tion by organizing an awareness

campaign.One last important thing: The ChocoCard is returning for 2015 entitling to confectionary gifts and discounts on purchases. Cardhold-ers will also be able to participate in the ChocoCard 2015 contest to win prizes.More information on the festival can be found at http://www.eurochocolate.com/perugia2015/

15% STUDENT DISCOUNT

VIA DEI PANDOLFINI 13/R • 055 2001854 • [email protected]

SEAFOOD SPECIALSLIVE SPORTS



MUSIC

Space Presents Caramello: The Special Night of

International Students

Dave Matthews to Perform Live on Oct. 18

By Mackenzie Broderick

Just in time for a new batch of study-abroad students, Space is hosting Caramello, the “sweet uni-versity night” — as the organizers define it — of every Wednesday for Italian, European and American students.Caramello presents themed nights and, often, also fashion shows. Entry before 12:30 a.m. is only one euro. The ground floor, which opens at 10 p.m., hosts a bar playing hip-hop and R&B music, and on the upper floor is the club with its exclusive privè and commercial house music. A long, glorious history in Floren-tine night life is the main charac-

The Dave Matthews Band will be performing at the Mandela Forum of Florence on Oct. 18. The concert will start at 8 p.m., with ticket costs from 46 to 69 euros. Tickets can be purchased at www.ticketone.it.The concert is part of a series of shows consisting of two concerts in one, as experimented by the band in their tour last year, in-cluding their first ever trip to the United Arab Emirates.The tour is the first European tour from DMB since 2010, with stops in Abu Dhabi before the Eu-ropean leg kicks off on Oct. 11 in Lisbon, Portugal, the site of the band’s Live Trax 10 release which

teristic of this club. The legacy of Space began in February 1969, in the midst of the electrifying hippy ‘underground’ music. Carlo Cald-ini, Mario Bolognesi and Fabrizio Fiumi, the founders of the club, wanted to create a place in the heart of Florence that could be the most important place to attend concerts by the most famous Ital-ian and foreign bands of that pe-riod. The idea of the name came from the “Electric Circus” club of New York. The groups that first played at Space were primarily rock bands. Although the live music scene has died down since then, Space con-tinues to bring the beats. Now a more modern nightclub, several famous DJ’s have taken the stage

in recent years, including Chingy, DJ UNK, Chris Willis and Pitbull.What has remained the same since the late 60s is from the time the club doors open until clos-ing, Florentines and internation-al students come together for an unforgettable experience. Until midnight, the downstairs room hosts a karaoke party, and has an unique installment — an aquari-um. Special effects, lights shows and laser effects all add to the spaceship-feel of the club.

Guests can reserve tables or plan group events by visiting www.spaceclubfirenze.com or

calling 348 7768435.

featured a surprise appearance from Rage Against the Machine’s Tom Morello. Additional stops along the way include an exten-sive jaunt through Italy as well as stops in Germany, Belgium and France, before finishing up with a run through the United Kingdom with notable gigs at the O2 in Lon-don and a closing slot on Nov. 13 in Dublin.DMB’s first and only performance in Florence was 20 years ago. The Florence concert is one of the four the band will hold in Italy. The first one will be at the Mediolanum Fo-rum in Assago, Milan, the second in Florence, the third in Rome and the last in Padua.

Breakfast Brunch Lunch Dinner

Via dell’Acqua 3055 29 07 48

www.theflorencediner.com

Open every day from 9 a.m.-12 a.m.



FOOD & WINE



CITY BEAT

Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s el-egant leather workshop is a sur-prising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradi-tion. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo bus-ily working at an island bench in-dicates that this is, in fact, a botte-ga (workshop) producing finely crafted leather bags, backpacs, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself.Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certi-fied by Tuscan company Consor-zio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather full-time for six years, he’s already

Take Home Artisan Tradition With Furò e Punteruolo

made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan. However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability.“In Tuscany, manual skill is wide-spread and forms part of the ge-

netic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo. Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

Discover Venice in Santa Croce

Alvise GiustinianCorso Tintori, 19/r

055 246 62 95www.alvisegiustian.com

Engel & Völkers Firenze Michelangelo

Lungarno Guicciardini, 25-27r055 281 076

Murano glass and Carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Ven-ice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian is a gift and art store spe-cializing in Murano-made items, which guarantees the sale of purely Murano products without importa-tion. Products include masks, jew-elry, and glass objects for the home. Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of prod-ucts starting at merely €5, according to its owner Paola. Alvise Giustini-an’s spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience. Paola’s customers tell her that pric-

es in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice. If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as pa-pier-mâché masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

A Florentine Branch for Engel & Völkers

With more than 35 years of expe-rience in the brokerage of high-end real estate, Engel & Völkers belongs to the leading service providers in the industry today. The international network and the local market knowledge of the company experts create the foun-dation of its success. This gives the customer invaluable benefits, particularly in the commercial real estate sector. Whether you

wish to sell or to let or are looking for a suitable property yourself, or you are seeking sustainable com-petitive advantages or the long-term creation of value, Engel & Völkers is the best choice.

On Tour in Florence

As a leading tour operator in Flor-ence with multilingual staff, Ciao Florence offers a range of regular and private tours to Venice, Rome, Naples and Tuscany. Ciao Florence has a variety of dai-ly and weekend excursions where one can discover the Cinque Terre and hike between the enchanting villages that cling to the cliffs, or dine in the Chianti with a sunset view of Tuscan hills and vineyards.

The tour company also offers its customers the chance to skip the queue at museums and galleries such as the Uffizi and Accademia. Other activities include pizza- and gelato-making classes and Florence Walking Tours (complete with an aperitivo). Tuscan cooking classes and Chianti wine-tasting sessions are also available.

For more information visit:www.ciaoflorence.it

R E S T A U R A N T



CITY BEAT

A Dynasty in Mosaics

The Fratelli Traversari factory is specialized in mosaics and cos-tume jewelry, with an emphasis on micromosaics whose designs and origins date back to the nine-teenth century. The factory is family-owned, and has been for the past four generations. As time passes, the artisan work-shop has selected the optimal quality of the mosaics that are used, as well as a mosaic tech-nique that continues to this day. The mosaics are complete-ly handmade and are produced with three different techniques: micromosaic in enamel glass that is spun, mosaic in enamel glass that is cut, and Florentine mosaic made of natural hard stones. The production also includes silver and gilded brass costume jewelry with spun enamel micromosaics. Earrings, rings, pins, bracelets, pendants, boxes, frames, and crosses include the jewelry and objects that are created. The workshop also reproduces mosaic portraits, works of art, and tabletops; as well as micromosaic

restoration. Many ideas for mosa-ics are based on clients’ designs and ideas that are then trans-formed into masterpieces. The factory has been in the family since 1870, when it was founded. The founder, Arturo, began with a small souvenir shop on Via Ser Ventura Monaci, in the zone of Piazza Ferrucci. However, it was already focused on micromosa-ics, especially high-quality jewel-ry. In 1944, the factory was given to Arturo’s two children, Alfredo and Aldo, and moved to Via Pen-demonte. From there, they es-tablished the production of new items, such as earrings, rings, pins, bracelets, frames, and cross-es. Today, the workshop is handled by Daniele and Letizia, who are the fourth generation of the Traversa-ri family. For 150 years a family tradition has been passed on, a common patrimony that express-es a unique and precious artistic inheritance. This technique of micromosaics was born in Rome in 1750. The stones are placed on teghe, which are thin sticks in glass-spun enamel of various forms and col-ors, and then into a special oven with Murano glass. Due to the spinner, they are melted togeth-er to draw different forms and shapes: plates, rose petals, daisy petals, leaves, and other forms.

Discover the Traversari Brothers

Micromosaics made of tiny pieces obtained by cutting thin glass rods made

by melting and spinning highly colored Murano glass.

Traversari Fratelli Via Senese, 68

055 [email protected]

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES

San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends.

Specialty:TUNA STEAK

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r055 21 68 79

[email protected]

Nuti Showcases Napoleon’s ClockTime is money. And in time of war, it can be also a matter of life or death. For this reason Napo-leon, during his camps in Italy more than 200 years ago, decid-ed to provide his perennially late officials with clocks. One of this clocks today is part of the Nuti collection of antique clocks and jewellery. The collection is worth a visit. In addition to the clocks that Napoleon gave to his military officials, it features pieces that belonged to the Florentine aris-tocracy (which form the core of the collection); pendulum clocks from the French Directory period; a French amphora-shaped clock from the second half of the nine-teenth century; English tower clocks by John Hoger; and clocks from the late eighteenth and ear-ly nineteenth century by Breguet, a company established in 1775 in Paris. All clocks and jewels are certified, making the shipping faster as it can take up to several days to ship a non-certified piece.The story of the Nuti company is interesting itself. One day in the early 1950s a young woman took

Antichi Orologi e Gioielli NutiVia della Scala 10/rTel.: 055-294594

Opening hours: 9 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.4 to 7 p.m., closed on Monday

morning

her son Valerio by the hand and led him to his first day of school. She wanted him to become a den-tist. As with all mothers, she want-ed a safe, well-paid job for her son.The school was one of the most renowned in Florence, offering courses in different disciplines. But this particular day proved dis-appointing.

“The dentist school is full, but there is one place available in the watchmaking school – should we sign your son up here?” she was asked by the employee.The woman said yes. No choice could have been more appro-priate. Valerio soon excelled at watchmaking; his manual dexter-ity was natural, as natural as the passion he developed for clocks.After school he repaired watch-es and fell in love with collecting them. In 1975, he made the move and opened his own jewelry shop, Antichi Orologi e Gioielli Nuti.The jeweller’s is now run by Vale-rio’s family, which keeps his spirit and story alive.Time is money. At Nuti, it is also history.

Situated 30 meters from the Ponte Vec-chio, Pinart has offered quality statio-nery for more than 20 years.

• Books, notebooks and photo albums in artisan-worked leather with handmade paper;

• A large selection of writing instruments from top Italian brands, including fountain, roller and ballpoint pens;

• Hand-painted wooden boxes and photo frames portraying details from Florentine monuments.

Open: Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Via Guicciardini, 2/r 055 23 98 450www.pinart.it

ARTISAN LEATHER JOURNALS & ITALIAN PENS

BOTTEGA D’OLTRARNO

PINART

Located near Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women and mens’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands. Open daily from 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.Services include: • Haircuts, color and highlight• GreatLengths® extensions• Keratin reconstruction & hair botox• ESSIE Gel reconstruction and

permanent enamel• Acrylic nail care• Waxing• Massage (healing and relaxation)• Eyelash extensions

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES

Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49–51/r055 24 16 04

www.alchimia-hairdesign.com



FASHION

Shopping in Florence

Virtually

Understanding the Roots of Italian Fashion

A new platform for shopping in Florence has been launched on-line. Entitled YouMODY, the con-cept enables consumers to ‘stroll’ the streets of Florence virtually, and enter the city’s most presti-gious shops and artisan work-shops to buy products. It’s the first time such a compre-hensive approach has been taken to online shopping in Florence. The objective is to make hidden artisans more visible and enable them to be ‘visited’ by a greater number of virtual clients, in order to promote the range and quality of items hand-produced in Flor-ence. Consumers can browse shops that range in location from the city’s most exclusive thoroughfares, such as Via de’ Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, to the centrally located Via Porta Rossa, Via della Vigna Nuova, Via de’ Rondinelli and Via del Parione; and Borgo San Jacopo and Via de’ Bardi in the traditionally artisan Oltrarno district. Items can be purchased online via computer, smartphone or tablet, and are delivered free worldwide by specialized courier.

By Costanza Menchi

As the sophisticated Italian writ-er Gianna Manzini noted early in the 1930s, the renowned Bronzi-no’s portrait of Eleanora di Toledo with her son Don Garzia acts as if it were “a program, a prophecy,” a document of an epoch. It was in the Renaissance we first find a manifestation of a “discourse on dress” and on the rhetoric of the bella figura (literally beautiful fig-ure; or making a good impression). The Renaissance is the key epoch for an understanding of the direc-tion taken by Italian fashion in the 21st century. Fashion in the Renaissance be-came scientia habitus as well as a political and a state affair via the Sumptuary Laws. In the 16th century numerous authors, like Baldassar Castiglione and Cesare Vecellio, expressed an existing concern for appearance, and the body was a vital component in the construction of an identity by in-dividuals who saw themselves as agents of their own fate, first of all the members of the Medici family. In the Renaissance time, the act of “fashioning” had connota-tions different from modern ones. Clothes were seen to transform the wearer and to dress in par-ticular clothes, gave the person a form. In the context of court life in mid-16th century Florence, Co-simo de’ Medici became a duke and his wife, Eleonora, a duchess, by putting on the robes of state. From her wedding dress of 1539 to her burial dress of 1562, the Span-ish-born Eleonora wore ceremo-nial dress designed to advertise both the Florentine silk industry

and Duke Cosimo’s loyalty to the Spanish Emperor Charles V. Our primary evidence for their new ducal status is portraiture. The Florentine painter Agnolo Bronzino understood the impor-tance of dress in crafting Eleono-ra’s public persona, and he made the virtuoso depiction of cloth-ing and jewels (some of them at-tributed to Cellini) central to his four portraits of her in ceremonial dress. In these portraits, Bronzi-no depicted Eleonora as an icon of Spanish nobility, and together

with her two eldest sons, as a sym-bol of fecundity and of Medicean dynastic ambitions. Thus, just as Eleonora’s public appearances in lavish dress were carefully staged, Bronzino’s images of her in this clothing were part of Duke Co-simo’s political culture in which he presented his duchess as he wished her to be seen.Eleonora, Cosimo and the mem-bers of the Medici family repre-sented in those official portraits were not just showing off their personal refined style and taste

but the richness of the city of Florence. Through their ward-robe and clothing choices, they adopted different ways and tricks by means of which ideas, ideolo-gy and power could be conveyed through appearance. Today, Florentine heirs of that tra-dition are still recognized world-wide for the superb “Made in Ita-ly” fashion, textiles, leather goods, jewels and accessories, which still let people wearing them making a good impression during public and private occasions.



CITY BEAT

... to Paint

... to Make Jewels ... and to Sculpt

The Studio d’Arte Toscanella is a visual arts workshop located in the most traditional Florentine heart of the historical center of Florence. Just steps from Palazzo Pitti, art students of all levels can benefit from lessons.The Studio provides courses in drawing and painting. The aim of the courses is to help the student combine ancient techniques with a modern eye. Students should ex-pect to explore and develop tradi-tional art techniques.The Studio offers single sessions, and intensive workshops, short- and long-term, as well as private and group lessons. Teaching is done on an individual basis and provides personalized training with step-by-step coaching in the

Among the many internation-al schools and art institutes in Florence, there is one that stands out particularly because of its originality in its philosophy and unique teaching methods. That would be, Alchimia School of Contemporary Jewellery, where the art of contemporary jewellery making is guided, taught and nur-tured. The name of the school reflects its mission, as ‘Alchimia’ was chosen for its symbolism and its sugges-tions. A term that recalls the an-cient discipline crossing science and metaphysics, a discipline of-fering a way to, through creative impulse, manual skill, imagina-tion and enthusiasm, transform the “worthless” quality into the

execution of the pieces.Not only can students get practice in creating still life pieces, but also portraits and nude figure draw-ings based on live models.The Studio is also kid-friendly, in-viting families to the space in or-der to help children develop their artistic skills with watercolors, colored pencils, and oil paints.Sessions are conducted every Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday beginning at 6:00 p.m. Sessions on Thursday, Friday, and Satur-day are throughout the day in the morning, afternoon, and evening. The Studio will also consider spe-cial time and day requests.Located in the Oltrarno area, the Studio’s neighborhood is full of local artisans, art galleries, muse-

Learning to Sew...Marianna Jaross

“Colourful, creative, and social” are three words used by founder and creator Romana Rocchino to describe Merenda in Sartoria, a needlecraft workshop tucked away on the quieter side of bridge, in the heart of San Frediano. Sewing machines are available to rent for those who need only the equipment to do make their own clothes, or do repairs without as-sistance or supervision. For those who are new to the art of sew-ing and design, Rocchino offers ‘Stitch and Bitch’ sessions to learn how to create, repair, transform or customize a wardrobe. What the shop offers is not sim-ply limited to sewing; classes are

available in knitting, crochet-ing, and other workshops are run throughout the year, further fus-ing creativity with a friendly at-mosphere. In fact, the workshop’s title derives from the idea of en-joying afternoon tea at the tailor’s. Merenda in Sartoria is a great place to delve into the world of design more seriously for aspiring seamstresses, or to pursue a bud-ding hobby amidst an environ-ment of good conversation and in-novation. Events are announced on Facebook.

Merenda in Sartoria Via del Drago d’Oro, 11/r

338 958 [email protected]

Via Toscanella 33R340 737 1239

Piazza Piattellina 3/r50124 Firenze, Italy

Tel. +39 055 2396154E-Mail: [email protected]

“highest.”The courses offered range from beginning to advanced levels, and gives students the possibility to develop high technical skills, elaborate artistic concepts and express their creative language.The teaching method focuses on giving value to the skills of each student and their individual na-ture. It is precisely this that has given Alchimia the possibility to win several international prizes and acknowledgements.

Heir to five generations of sculp-tors, Raffaello Romanelli special-izes in portraiture and opens his family workshop at the Romanelli Studio Gallery to individual and group lessons. This practice con-tinues the ancient tradition of master and apprentice, in which young boys worked under a mas-ter craftsman in order to learn his secrets (known as ‘andare a botte-ga’).Raffaello guides the students in learning the basic technique of modeling a realistic subject in clay with the traditional ‘sight-size method’, which trains the eyes to measure the proportions and vol-umes of the figure. The studio also offers the opportunity to learn how to prepare works for kiln fir-

um collections, and antique shops of sculptors and restorers, making it the perfect setting for a unique and enriching educational expe-rience.More information can be found at the Studio’s Facebook page.

ing, as well as the molding tech-nique to cast it in plaster. The Romanelli Studio Gallery is one of the oldest active sculpture studios in Europe. Originally a church, it became a sculpture stu-dio in the early nineteenth centu-ry under Lorenzo Bartolini, who

was then succeeded by his favorite student, Pasquale Romanelli. Five generation later, the studio is still owned and run by the Romanel-li family. It offers weekly courses from Monday to Friday, as well as part-time courses or single les-sons. Each class lasts three hours and takes place at the studio’s his-toric workshop in Borgo San Fre-diano in the Oltrarno district, long a haunt of Florence’s top artisans. Participants can coordinate the program and class schedule with the teacher, and classes are also open to beginners.

Galleria RomanelliBorgo San Frediano, 70

055 239 60 47www.raffaelloromanelli.com

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available. Daily from 11 a.m.–2 a.m.

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r055 09 44 561

www.thejackpub.com

OPEN EVERY DAYBREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER

Via de’ Neri 12/R055 29 07 03

[email protected]



CITY BEAT



SAN GIMIGNIANO

The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125San Gimignano

Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.0577-940526, 055-940151

Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5

Ticket valid for free admission to the Museum of Death Penaltywww.museodellatortura.it

A JOURNEY THROUGH HUMAN CRUELTY

By Marine Le Canne

Two paintings by Florentine Re-naissance painter Filippino Lippi portraying the theme of the Annun-ciation are on display at San Gimi-gnano’s town hall until November 2, following recent restoration.The first painting focuses on the archangel Gabriel as he bears the news that the Virgin will give birth to Christ, while the second portrays the Virgin receiving the news, her eyes cast downwards. Both were commissioned by San Gimignano’s Guelph party Priors and Captains for the city’s Palazzo Comunale (town hall) in 1482.A major feature of the exhibition is the display of historic documents

Filippino Lippi’s Annunciations Showcased

detailing the paintings’ commis-sion, preserved in San Gimigna-no’s city archives for five centuries, which give voice to the Guelph par-ty’s civic spirit and desire to beau-tify their city’s seat of government. The exhibit also includes original sketches by Filippino Lippi from the same period, on loan from the Uffizi Gallery.Lippi, who lived in the second half of the fifteenth century, began his career as an artist training under his father Filippo. Both worked to-gether in the cathedral of Spoleto in Umbria, where they began to paint frescoes depicting the life of the Vir-gin Mary. Lippi eventually complet-ed the frescoes following the death of his father in 1469.

Filippino Lippi and the Annunciation of San

GimignanoTown Hall of San Gimignano

(Pinacoteca di San Gimignano)Until November 2

€7.50; €6.50 (reduced price) www.sangimignanomusei.it

The Galleria Gagliardi was estab-lished in 1991, in a 400-square-me-ter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. Today, the Galleria bears absolutely no resem-blance to the original building apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards, covering a hole which once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machinery in the absence of a ramp. This work of art was created by the previous owner, Dino Conforti, and has been left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area of the gallery has been extended and the gallery has now become a cultural reference for the promotion and sale of con-temporary art. Every work is chosen

directly from the studios of artists who constantly experiment new solutions through their research, renewing their approach and skills. The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and inter-national artists.

Explore the Gagliardi Contemporary Art

Gallery

Galleria GagliardiContemporary Art

Via San Giovanni, 57San Gimignano

[email protected]

Lippi went on to become an ap-prentice under Sandro Botticelli, who had also been a pupil of his father. Lippi’s first works greatly re-semble those of Botticelli’s, but with less sensitivity and subtlety. He was also drawn to Dutch paintings of his time, which are still prominent in Renaissance exhibitions today, particularly at the Uffizi Gallery.



CHIANTI

A Visit to Greve

By Yena Lee

As grape-harvesting season is in the full swing of things, the Chi-anti wine district comes to mind when in Tuscany. Although there are many notable small and large towns in Tuscany that create fla-vorful and notable wines, they are also enjoyable beyond the wines they produce.One particular city, named after the small river that runs through the town, Greve in Chianti is of-ten considered as the “gateway” into the Chianti wine district. The town adopted ‘in Chianti’ to its name when it was included into the Chianti wine district in 1972. Greve in Chianti is nestled between Florence and Siena —

about 31 kilometers south and 42 kilometers north, respectively.The town of Greve in Chianti plays a vital role in the growing of the grapes that are used to make the local wines — the most notable being the Chianti Classico. Be-yond their role in the grape pro-duction, the town is also heavily invested in olive oil production and truffle harvesting. Another notable production of Greve in Chianti is meat, especially pork. The Cinta Senese pig, a special breed unique to the region, is ex-cellent quality pork. The town’s frazione, or subdi-vision, Montefioralle claims to be the birthplace of the famous Amerigo Vespucci, who was an explorer and America’s name-

sake. Although there are conflict-ed reports regarding Vespucci’s birthplace, there is a house in Montefioralle’s main street that is marked with a “V” and a wasp for the Vespucci family. Another famed explorer, Giovanni da Ver-razzano, was born just north of Greve in Chianti. Famous for dis-covering the Hudson Bay in New York, the Giovanni da Verrazza-no statue stands tall in the main square of the town.How to get to Greve: Although getting to Greve in Chianti via car would be the easiest and the most scenic, there are other modes of transportation available. An easy way to get to the town would be from the Santa Maria Novella sta-tion. Hop on bus line 365 and you

will get to Greve in Chianti in just about an hour.What to do: Beyond being the entrance gate into the Chianti region, Greve in Chianti is full of historical sites.Every Saturday morning, the weekly market takes place in Greve in Chianti’s main square, Piazza Matteotti. The Saturday morning market offers local prod-ucts by artisans, workshops and restaurants. In addition, the main square is home to the Antica Ma-celleria Falorni, which is a butcher shop that has been nestled in the same location of the square since 1729.The Chiesa Santa Croce is in the main square, as well. The church was originally constructed in

Wine TastingWine Shop

Bistrot

Via Vittorio Veneto 112/a50022 Greve in ChiantiTel. +39 055 8546209

Mail: [email protected]: www.enotecadigreve.it

Piazza Matteotti 1850022 Greve in Chianti (FI)

[email protected]

WINE & TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTSSPECIALTIES

Via C. Battisti 950022 Greve in Chianti

0558544802www.enoristorantegallonero.it

Typical Tuscan GrillHandmade Pasta

the 11th century; however, it was burned down and rebuilt in 1325 with a neo-classical façade. If you happen to find yourself in Greve in Chianti during the sec-ond weekend of September, be sure to check out the Chianti Clas-sico wine festival, which is held every year. Although it is a wine festival, there are local olive oil and cheeses available, as well.What to eat: Beyond sipping on the wine from Greve in Chianti, which usually is a Chianti Classico, there are must-eats in the town.As the pork is special in Greve in Chianti, a must-eat local dish is a Cinta Senese porchetta sandwich. In addition, when it is truffle sea-son, restaurants will offer up sea-sonal dishes with truffles.



STUDENT LIFE

Maximizing Florence Keep your eyes open. As well as your ears, nose, mouth and mind. During your first few weeks here you are bound to be inundated with a flood of new sensations. Try to absorb the new sights, smells, flavors and attitudes with an open mind.

Take in all the gorgeous art, ar-chitecture and scenery that Flor-ence has to offer, but also look for the hidden secrets. How many plaques of inscriptions by Dante can you spot? What level did the flood reach in 1966? Have you no-ticed all the graffiti around? Take side streets and see what you can discover. Florence is a historical maze.

Get lost. The absolute best way to learn the city is by foot. Bring a map, a camera and your wallet with you when you set out. Wan-der. Get lost. Then try to find your way back. The word “dove,” mean-ing “where,” might prove to be useful while exploring the city. If you get turned around, just look for the golden ball on top of the Duomo and you’ll find your way to the center in no time. Or pick a well known Florence landmark, such as the Duomo or Santa Maria Novella train station, so you can ask locals for directions if need be.

Become a regular. Find a local restaurant or cafe and visit it reg-ularly, so you become a familiar face to the employees. Not only will it give you something nor-mal and consistent, but you’ll feel

Tips for Foreign Studentsvery Italian when you order your

“cappuccino e cornetto.” One rec-ommendation of a small cafe is on Via Bernardo Cennini, a short walk from the train station, called Jaster. They have excellent cap-puccino, caffe latte, panini, cor-netti, and more. Plus, the owner is always willing to help non-natives practice their Italian.

Head to the Central Market of San Lorenzo. If the best way to discover Florence is on foot, the second best way is through your mouth. Check out this indoor market from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. for fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, fish and meats, sweets and count-less other products. Not only will you discover a wealth of typical-ly Tuscan culinary delights, but you’ll also have the opportunity to practice your Italian.

Check out Cascine Park. Located just a few bridges north of Ponte Vecchio, Cascine Park is one of the largest and best parks Florence has to offer. Come here Tuesday mornings to check out the outdoor market, or bring your bike here and go for a spin. Better yet, grab a friend, prepare a picnic, and wile away an afternoon in spring un-derneath some shady green trees.

Take una passeggiata. During the evening, tons of Italians take to the streets for a stroll around the city. Join them to take in the sights, window shop, or enjoy a gelato.

Watch your spending. Europe

can be expensive, and it’s easy to spend a lot without realizing it. Keep an eye on the exchange rate and try to save money where pos-sible.

At the grocery store. Always car-rying cash is a good idea. Nobody wants to wait around for you and your credit card transaction when buying groceries. It is better to use small bills and always have change on you for quicker trans-actions. On that same note, don’t buy too many groceries; Italians usually stop at the grocery store several times a week instead of stocking up for fresher items and it also makes your load lighter.

Cheap eats. One of my favorite places to go for lunch in the city is I Due Fratellini, a small panini stand just next to the church of Orsanmichele near Piazza Signo-ria. You might have to wait in line because this place attracts a big crowd during lunchtime, but the fresh and quickly made sandwich-es are worth the 2.50 euro price.

Try aperitivo. Lots of places around town set out a light buffet to accompany your drink starting around 7pm. All you have to do is show up, order a drink, and you can munch on any array of dishes before starting your night. Go to Kitsch in Piazza Beccaria or on Via San Gallo near San Marco for the best aperitivo in town.

For used books and textbooks stop into the Paperback Exchange,

the Anglo-American bookstore just behind the Duomo on Via del-le Oche. All the books are in En-glish, and the staff is really friend-ly and willing to help you find books for your classes. Or try the Florence National Central Library. One tip I learned from my Italian teacher is to read Italian children’s books to learn basic Italian.

Book trips in advance. If you’re not that into planning but still want to travel, check into package deals from places like Euroadven-tures and Bus2Alps. Otherwise, keeping an eye on special promo-tions on Ryanair.com can provide really cheap airfare. If you book one or two months in advance, airfare can be as low as 8 euro one way (keep in mind this does not include taxes or travel costs to and from the airport). Planning in ad-vance can save a lot of money and also let you work out the travel de-tails ahead of time. Don’t wait.

Get involved. Take advantage of activities and field trips offered by your school. They can be a great way to connect with other peo-ple in your program, and possibly even find future travel buddies. Also, check your school’s notice board. You might spot a potential partner for a language exchange, or an interesting wine tasting course. Keep your eyes out for op-portunities.

Tips on where to study: check out the Oblate Library. It’s on Via Oriuolo just behind the Duomo.

There are three floors with an out-door rooftop terrace where you can take in great views of the Duo-mo. There is even a cafe where you can order a cappuccino and read E.M. Forster’s “A Room With A View” in English. Get a head start on homework, and you will thank yourself later when you are able to lounge at a café near the Arno or soak up the sun at Boboli Gardens.

Speak the language. One of the best things you can do while you are in Florence is meet local peo-ple. Not only will you improve your language skills, but your horizons will be broadened as well. Instead of speaking only to other American students and go-ing to the same American bars every weekend, try branching out and meeting new people. It will give you greater insight into Ital-ian culture, and you will gain so much more from your time here. Why would you want an American experience while studying abroad in Italy anyway?

Write a Florence Bucket List. One exciting part of being in Italy is how easy it is to travel, but some-thing you can’t ignore is the city you’re in! Florence is so full of history and life, so make a list of things you want to do before you leave even if it’s something tour-isty like climbing to the top of the Duomo or something more per-sonally-fulfilling like seeing the sunset from the top of the Piazza Michelangelo or haggling with a street vendor.



SPORT

FIORENTINA SEPTEMBER HOME GAMES

October 4 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina vs. Atalanta

October 22 at 7:00 p.m. Fiorentina vs. Lech Poznan

October 25 at 6:00 p.m. Fiorentina vs. Roma

Tickets can be bought through When in Florence, online at it.violachannel.tv, at the stadium and at Fiorentina Point on Viale

Manfredo Fanti, 85/A.Keep up to date with Fiorentina at

en.violachannel.tv

DISCOVER FLORENCESOCCER MUSEUM

The Museo del Calcio (Soccer Museum) located in the Coverciano area, not far from the stadium. The museum is divided into three floors that reveal the history of Italian and international soccer from its origins in the twentieth century. All jerseys exhibited belonged to former players, and the cleats on display date back to the years of the sport’s pioneers during the second half of the nineteenth

century.Viale Aldo Palazzeschi, 20

Mon–Fri: 9 a.m.–1 p.m.; 3–7 p.m.Sat: 9 a.m.–1 p.m.

Entry: €5; €3 reduced

Fiorentina competing to win the national leagueA Dream Called Scudetto

Thomas Ricciotti

“Keep Calm and Support Fiorenti-na.” This, in short, is the message that Fiorentina’s Portuguese coach Paulo Sousa sent last month to dreamy Fiorentina’s fans as the team reached the top of the League after 17 years, even though sharing this primacy with Inter Milan.The reason why Sousa has preached

“Keep Calm” hides a non-confessed dream that the coach is sharing with the city, that of winning the third ‘Scudetto’ in the history of the club. Sousa has sensed that this could be the right year. Winning the title implies the converging of several factors, the most important of which being the quality of the playing and the lower performanc-es of other major teams. Two factors that clearly seem to exist in the be-ginning of this season: Fiorentina is showing solid and technical play-ing skills, while other big teams are currently experiencing difficulties.

last season were sold during the summer. Supporters were worried after the selling out of Cuadrado, Salah, Gilardino, Aquilani, Mario Gomez and the departure of coach Montella following a dispute with the staff. They all played well and their departure created an uncer-tain future.Thus, October is the month of ‘truth’ for Fiorentina. The four games scheduled this month will tell if the dream can really be reached or not. The first game will be in Florence against Atalanta, with the odds in favor of Fiorentina. The ‘moment of truth’ for the season is the upcom-ing away game against Naples and the home game against Rome, two of the most accredited rivals for the final victory. These results will tell Sousa and Fiorentina fans the real potential of the team. What can Fiorentina fans do to help their team? Simply listen to Sousa and

“Keep Calm and Support.” The fight to-ward the dream has just began.

ON FOOT: Start on the north side of the Ponte Vecchio. Head east until the parallel street finally turns into Lungarno Pecori Giraldi. Turn left at Viale Giovanni Amendola, past the roundabout and then right onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino. This street takes you to Campo di Marte train station; cross the footbridge over the tracks and follow the road for one block down Viale Manfredo

The away victory of the end of last month of 1-4 against Inter Milan, a team that appears as the main rival to Fiorentina for the ‘Scudetto,’ gave a sense of pride and confidence to the team and to the fans that what is necessary to make the dream come true exists. It also gave a sur-

prise within a surprise, as three goals were scored by an almost un-known player, striker Nikola Kalin-ic, that could be the bonus needed to achieve a historic result.Further, the victories of the first part of the season came quite unexpect-edly, as most of the best players of

Fanti until you arrive at the stadium, which will be on your right hand side of the street.BY BUS: Bus no. 17 runs services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Ma-ria Novella train station at various times on game days. These buses are usually packed, so make sure you give yourself plenty of time to catch a later bus, in case you miss an earlier one.

How to get to the stadium: How to get tickets:

Stadium tickets typically cost any-where from €20–70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near the Piazza della Republica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common deal-er. Sitting behind a goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the ac-tion on the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor

section. This section is physical-ly barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this des-ignated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards. Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Flo-rentine soccer match.



TRAVEL

Book in Advance to See the Christmas Markets With Bus2Alps

Fairy lights, handicrafts, ginger-bread and snow-dusted squares transport visitors into a magical and timeless world at the Christmas mar-kets in Vienna, Salzburg and Prague.Browse stalls selling hand-carved wooden toys, Christmas decorations, nutcrackers, Advent calendars and traditional confectionary, and en-joy outdoor concerts with a glass of glühwein in hand. This spicy red wine is not only a delectable festive beverage, but a great way to warm up during the outdoor celebrations.Vienna’s Rathausplatz hosts 150 stalls in a shimmering mass of color, with Christmas decorations, tradi-tional sweets and child-friendly ac-tivities on offer. Smaller markets can be found dotted around the city, in-cluding Riesenradplatz, Spittelberg, Karlsplatz, Maria-Theresien-Platz and Schönbrunn Palace.At Salzburg’s Schloss Hellbrunn Christmas market, visitors can sam-ple Mozartkugel chocolate pralines and enjoy a reindeer-pulled sleigh

ride. Booths offer a range of Christ-mas decorations and handcrafted gifts, as well as fine baked goods and delicious aromatic glühwein. The city that gave us Mozart also offers popular performances by tra-ditional Salzburg choirs and chil-dren’s school groups, which lure crowds every year. The market is opened by the Archbishop on the first Saturday in Advent right after the blessing of the Advent wreaths.Prague’s Old Town Square hosts a red-roofed Christmas village sell-ing decorations, a children’s work-shop and an entertaining program of Christmas events alongside its enticing Christmas fare. Sample the roasted chestnuts and Christmas confectionary on offer, and take home a memento in the form of a special mulled wine mug. Strolling through the snow-dusted stalls with hot chocolate or a hot mug full of glühwein is the highlight of Europe’s many treasured Christ-mas festivities, offering a refreshing

change from commercialized Christ-mas shopping to the enchantment of a centuries-old tradition.At the end of Nov., Piazza Santa Croce transforms into a German Christmas market from Dec. 3 to 21. Fifty-five wooden house-shaped ki-osks take over the piazza, with stalls selling products from various Euro-pean countries. Traditional German alpine crafts and foods are the main feature of the market, which offers tastings of such specialties as pork shanks, sauerkraut, pretzels, stru-del, and of course beer, mulled wine and sweets. The market is open dai-ly from 10 a.m. until 10 p.m. (until 8 p.m. on Dec. 21).Fortezza da Basso hosts Christmas in the City for the first time from Dec.11 to 14, with a range of gift items and gastronomic products on display, as well as a dedicated chil-dren’s space featuring Santa Claus. The fair runs from 3 p.m. until 8 p.m. on Dec. 11 and throughout the day from Friday to Sunday (11 a.m. until

8 p.m.). Entrance costs €5 and is free for children under 12.If you’re looking for that last-minute gift idea then Piazza Santo Spirito hosts a Christmas-themed fair of or-ganic and hand-made products from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. on Dec. 21. The Italian Red Cross in Florence keeps the Christmas spirit alive with its annual Christmas market at Te-atro Obihall from Nov. 21 through 23. It’s the perfect occasion for buying all your Christmas gifts in one place, featuring Italian gastronomic excel-lence, clothes, festive decorations, arts and crafts and games. The market was devised to raise funds for the charity, and therefore differs from other markets in that its pro-ceeds go towards helping the needy. The Florentine Red Cross is an in-valuable service in the area, provid-ing the most disadvantaged with clothes, food and financial support. Unfortunately, in the holiday period, the number of requests for aid more than double. Buying your gifts from

this market will ensure you contrib-ute just a little this Christmas; which is, after all, a holiday for giving. At the Florence Nöel fair at Stazione Leopolda, specially chosen exhib-itors decorate their stands as cre-atively and enchantingly as possible to disperse the magic of Christmas all across the venue. Games, activi-ties, hand-made crafts and manda-tory festive food stalls all feature, as well as Christmas decorations and accessories on sale to enable visitors to re-create the fairy-like charm in their own home. One of the prime features of this year’s fair is the impressive ‘Polar Ice’ stage, where continuous flurries of snowfall on giant trees are lit by five kilometers of Christmas lights. Florence Nöel also hosts a ‘Christmas Bio — San-ta’s pantry stall, as well as ‘Winter Weddings’ and naturally, a ‘Santa’s Workshop’ for children wishing to impart their long-held desires to Santa’s little helpers.



TRAVEL

INCLUDED• Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom)

• Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostelsBreakfast

• The New Prague Walking Tour

• Bus2alps walking tour

• Bus2alps trip leader

• The Prague Bus2alps informational guide

• Bus2alps exclusive discounts

Avani Kapur With the prestige of being one of the locations on the UNESCO World Heritage List, Prague’s ar-chitectural splendor has influ-enced the development of most European architecture, through monuments created over a thou-sand years that give this city a magic, unique glamour. A fairy-tale glamour, because when you walk in the streets of Prague you really have the sensation of being in a fantasy world. The historic center, built between the eleventh and eighteenth cen-turies, is one of Europe’s cultur-al and aesthetic gems. As one of the cities that has effectively pre-

A fairytale comes aliveDiscovering Prague with Bus2Alps

served much of its original struc-ture, the intriguing architecture of the early Middle Ages, High Gothic period and High Baroque period can be seen nestled on the banks of the Vltava River. Many of the glorious monuments, palaces and churches such as the Hrad-cani Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge were built mostly under the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV in the fourteenth cen-tury and remain main attractions. Sites such as the Prague Cas-tle, the Cathedral of St Vitus and Hradćany Square in front of the Castle have become internation-ally known, as well as the Valdgte-jn Palace on the left bank of the river, the Gothic Charles Bridge,

the Romanesque Rotunda of the Holy Rood and the Gothic arcad-ed houses of the Old Town Square.Not only does Prague offer much of Europe’s visual brilliance, but it was additionally one of the main centers of Christianity. Founded in 1348, and one of the earliest to be established in Europe, the Prague University was a major factor in the European Reforma-tion. Many ideas of the Hussite Movement were formed at the university which gave way to the beginning of the reformation.Prague has also been a vital center for the intellectual and cultural advancement of central Europe, being associated with renowned individuals such as Wolfgang

Amadeus Mozart, Franz Kafka, Albert Einstein and co-founder of the League of Nations, Edvard Beneš.In addition to its rich history, the modern side of Prague comple-ments the city with a diverse selection of traditional cuisine, entertainment, art and nightlife. Many of the best Czech restau-rants are located amongst the his-toric attractions. The John Len-non Wall offers a perspective on a more recent period of the Czech Republic, while Prague’s largest nightclub, Karlovy Lazne, offers five floors and 10 bars, proving the city’s truly unique ability to mix old with new.

Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitch-black stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Open daily:11–2 a.m.

Via Nazionale, 114/r(near the train station)

055 23 02 928www.mostodolce.it

HAMBURGERS AND AWARD-WINNING

ARTISAN BEER

The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwich-es and snacks amidst a tradi-tional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promo-tions and contests with many ex-citing prizes. The genuine atmo-sphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Open daily from 5 p.m.

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO

Via Faenza, 27055 27 41 571

[email protected]

Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open.• Fully outfitted with the latest

cardio & strength equipment from Technogym

• Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week

• All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees

• Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi

Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

Via dei Fossi, 56/r055 23 96 497

NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart ofFlorence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet.Get in and discover the Supermarket to test and taste!Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition.Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

THE SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN:

• Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

Il Supermercato...da Gustare e deGustare

Via dei Cerretani

Via de

l Gigli

o

Piazza dellaRepubblica

Via della Vigna Nuova

Via di Parione

Via d

ei Fo

ssi

Basilica diSan Lorenzo

Via delle Oche

Via Porta Rossa

Borg

o Sa

n Lo

renz

oVi

a de

’ Gin

ori

Via

della

Stu

fa

Via Faenza

Via Taddea

Via

Cam

illo B

enso

Cav

our

Piazza diSanta Cicilia

Borgo Santi Apostoli

Chiesa diSanta Trinità

Lungarno Gucciardini

Via dello Sprone

PiazzaSanta Felicita

Via

Mag

gio

Piazza degliAngiolieri

Piazza diSanto Stefano

Piazza dellaSignoria

Piazzadell’Unitàitaliana

Largo FratelliAlinari

Piazza degliOttaviani

Basilica di SantaMaria Novella

Via della Spada

Via dell’ArientoVia Nazi

onale

Via

dei C

alza

iuol

i

Piazza De’ Donati

Via Panzani

Via degli Agli Via dei Pecori

Via dei Lamberti

Via

dei V

ecch

ietti

Via

dei S

asse

tti

Via

dei P

esci

oni

Via

de’ T

orna

buon

i

Via delle Belle Donne

Via de

l Moro

Largo

F. Alina

ri

Via Fiume

Piazza dellaStazione Centrale

Piazza delDuomo

Via

dei M

arte

lli

Via

Rica

soli

Via del Pucci

Stazione FerroviariaFirenze Santa Maria Novella

Via L.Gori

Via del Canto dei Nelli

Via de’ Bardi

Via de’ Bardi

Costa dei M

agnoli

Costa S.Giorgio Lungarno Torrigiani

Pont

e Ve

cchio

Fiume Arno

Via Fiume

Largo Fratelli Alinari

Piazzadell’Unitàitaliana

Largo FratelliAlinari

Stazione FerroviariaFirenze SantaMaria Novella

Sapori & DintorniLargo Fratelli Alinari, 6/7

Borg

o Sa

n Lo

renz

o

Via

dei M

arte

lli

Via

Rica

soli

Via L.Gori

Via dei Biffi

Battistero diSan Giovanni

Cattedrale diSanta Maria

del Fiore

Basilica diSan Lorenzo

Sapori & DintorniBorgo San Lorenzo

Ponte

Vecc

hio

Via de’ Bardi

Costa S.Giorgio

PiazzaSanta Felicita

Fiume Arno

Sapori & DintorniVia de’ Bardi, 45/47

FIND YOUR LOCAL SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER

_S&D_Borgo San Lorenzo_290x405.indd 1 05/03/15 10.37

florence news&events october issue

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