fashionable tsea *room mode at jos. schonleben seen at ......fashionable tsea *room under my...

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Seen at a. Fashionable Tsea *Room Under my personal super .-ision. which insures.; the highest degree of perfection in artistie-. workmanship and fit. Furs Bought for New Year Gift* Will Be Delivered on Time. Jos. Schonleben FURRIER 822 SIXTH AYE. Phone 723 Bryant. B«t *6rh and 47:h Bta. I make Fur Garments to order, using the very best quality of choice se- lected skins exclusively. ALLMANUFACTURING Is Done on the Premises Cambridge. England. Dec. 17.-The recent no- tire given in England or tne candidacy of Mis- Jane Frances Dove for Mayor of High Wy- combe has brought again to public attention what was once considered a most extraordinary •nstiti.tlon-nameiy. Girton College. The state- ly an.l Intrepid Miss Dove, who bore nil the rigors of election time with euch admirable philosophy and said of her defeat that the •whole campaign was worth while, since it showed England that the only thing her ene- mies tou'd find to say about her u«ntne3s for the Mayoralty was that she was a woman, was one of the very first women who more than thirty years a^o astonished the world by in- sisting on attending examinations at Cambridga University. She and two of three others haii been preparing and studying at a little hired house at Hitchin. a place between Cambridge Some Points of Contrast with Institutions of the Same Kind in This Country. OBSEBVATIONS OF AMER- ICAN STUDENT THERE. MODE OF LIFE, AT GIRTON COLLEGE only two hundred or so— but a picked Mof m! iil«. No "snap" courses there! Each student burins to specialize at once in mathematics, e.momlcs. philosophy, or whatever her choice may be. and keep* it up for three years, till b' r examination. There is. therefore, a more continual Matins of lamps and girding of loins than at most of the American oolleree for women. American colleges K ive all sorts of girls an Idea of what an educated person ought to kr,mv-as well as a social stimulus. « "good time"—and thrre is a hilarity and richness or color. \u25a0 \u25a0•»••- In?- infusion of gayly dad Idlers erho 'come for th' life," which does not disturb the real stu- de-ite. but makes grlad their sterner Bvea The professor's daughter from a poor New England vil aga may room next door to a belle of Pitts- burg, and while she explains the "Vita Kuova of Dante to her affluent neighbor and perhaps aajaJM Pittsburg's ears to the choir invisible. aha is learning how to fix her own neglected ha r in the splendid halo faishion of the belle** Hut there is a sterner consistency of atasoe- ph-re at Girton. Dancing occurs only one \u25a0 week. After dinner you ought to be not dan<-- inr but working up material for the debating CM b. Dramatics make a senseless wastn «'f time, supper parties are not childish orgies r>U "fudge," but the adult and civilized enjoyment of coffee mad« with great care— and biscuits. C.trtontnns rather pride themselves on a Spar- tan indifference to luxury, and consider that if tlvy come to oollfge for mental training that ts all they need live for at the time. Round hats with one bow of ribbon on them, thick boots, an ulfter, no umbrella, is the costume of the day; an i at night, though they dress for dinner in th« low nec.ic-d dress of "the world." the gown is of some modest black material. There nothing to dlstinsuigh the costume of a »truggl!ng JOSEPH P. McHUCH &CO. Can Now .Make Deliveries erf THE HANDWROUGHT WII.T.QW The Secret to Slenderness Lies in the wearing of the Famous Dissolvene Rubber Garments the only harmless and efffctßßl method to Reduce Superfluous Flesh Without Effort Made of Finest pure Para Rubber \u2666o cover any part of the body, worn under the clothing at any or eH times •nut the slightest lnc«i-^ Tenience or annoyance. No drugs, no dieting, no change in the mode of living. Recommended by physicians. RESULTS POSITIVE. Call at our parlors or send for Booklet W. DISSOLVENE COMPANY. Astor Court i Adjoining Waldorf-Astoria*. IS West S4th St.. X. V T«l.. 35M 3*tii. Carriage entrance. 2.". West 83.1 Sc costume cf dead leaf cloth. Like all the latest gowns the skirt showed a trifle more fulness, ye- It etnas closely over the hips, the serpent tail train writhed narrowly after her as she Bought a table, anft as she seated herself with a knowing swoop It was deftly deposited under her chair, coiled into a heap like a live thing:. It was a redlnsote gown, closing at one side of the front with three .arge buttons Just below th« waist line, and turning low from the neck into narrow revers. Starting from the edge, beginning just below the buttons, went a wide hand of embroidery mounted under the arm to pas« about the figure and end under the rever- Colored velvet ribbon woven through lace entre- deux finished the stock at its base, end a band of lace laid over colored velvet filled a space above the rever?. Her hat. an immense mob crown of black velvet shirred on great cords on the two-inch brim, suggested a fanciful rim to a great Inverted bowl. A twist of velvet, with perky ends set at MMskle. was the only trimming. Black hats are charmingly trimmed with bunches of sliv»r raising: nothing else. The effect is one of extreme refinement. All street costuming is strangely quiet-black or dark tones of taupe and the enchanting yet deeply sombre lead color. Coat skirt and hat. all of this deep dark shade- coldly ilajaal aril wcrn by a tall, gray haired yet young beauty in the luncheon room of the Ritz a few days ago. As she came in the bunch of violets pinned to her huge muff of srmine fur was the only touch of color visible. But when the coat was thrown aside there was a lovely bodice cf silver tulle veiled with leau colored tulle, em- broidered In pale green and old rose tones. It was in perfect harmony with the hair and the cool, fresh tints of the complexion. The top of the -kin that reached in girdle fashion up onto the lull- bodl-e. was *dged with a little soutache braiding. The tight sleeves, of the cloth of the "cstume. shewed the new adornment, several inches of braiding at the top ending In a straight line, and a similar bit at the wrist. Between were cir- cling tucks. Tl.e latest tailored costumes show cloth skirts with half-lorg coats of velveteen or heavy silk. matching In color. These are strictly for travelling or forv morning wear. For more dressy occasions the redimrote. or the one-piec* frown, is the correct thin- The short coats are of straight cut. with 100-e fronts sloping sharply back, and seamless backs, cleverly adjusted to the figure, defining without touching it. White gloves are no longer worn in the street, or indeed, anywhere. For all occasions gloves are either carefully matched to the costume or se- lected from pale shades of flesh? biscuit and tan. besides the natural tones of suede. Evening shoes are of silk or satin to match the gown, em- broidered with tiny pearls, beads and jet; they are further beautified by gold or silvered Louis XV heels and big buckles. Lace is little used at the moment- It ie, there- fore, a good time to purchase it. MARGARET ALICE FRIEND- Last Word in Gowns Worn by Three Graceful Parisiennes— Street Costumes Are Very Subdued*. Paris. December 17. In the Salon <3* ; a :• •. just closed, there wr.s abwlutely ncthinc t-.ev. in ik« stalls and eat <>- voted to pownins for this sort cf progression. Therp were the already classic manteaus of thick \u25a0wool in piny and prrenish tones, lined with petlt- rris. real or caracul, with wide collar and huge cuffs of coar?=er rur offering more resistance to the weather. The he.ad covering* were indeed pretty, as well 8s practical. The fur turban, or bonnet. Such as one s»^B everywhere, was the favorite. A feat that had an air cf novelty was a silk cabriolet, fur trimmed, and ti«Kl ly wide "brides" of Liberty riMar. As nearly a!! the ai:tos are closed now a *pecja.l order of costume is not necessary- The Interior of the motor car Is truly luxurious, laaastaaaaa; practical things and luxuries in a mar- vellrus manner. One may play bridge, write, •elect a bock to read, smoke and make a toilet for •\u25a0 •:\u25a0'• A party c* three women left by their car at the" coor of a smart taa room yesterday were all gowned hi the latest fashions. A one-piece gown Cf clack velvet showed a pretty garniture in a tine Jet aid aUk braiding on the top and wrist of the tight sleeves, and in a narrow border about the «m*;: ?=quar<-r;it neck. It broadened on the shoul- ders to meet that on Ike top of the sleeve The tiny ejuiiciw and chocker were Slack dotted net. laid jg»v?r a bit of bright colored brocaded ribbon, stretched diagonally across. Such a pretty touch! JTb* frJH? .at finished the stock and foil over the *fcaj«d« were * .£\u25a0 : lightly with fur. This cut or •fotm shows no waist line; It hangs Ftraight from 'the shoulder to below the hip lines; It flares then. •Slightly, to allow ease of movement, 'The train "snarea a perfectly sharp point, achieved by insert- =tnr into the back seam a square breadth with the {upper ends shaped, to avoid over-much fulness. tOver th:» costume of black velvet was worn a wide 'mar,; *. lons enough to touch the ground or. either laid* I: was finished with the new eilk fringe, *«hot«in; a netted heading, quite twelve inches in v This mantle of heavy srajM preen Ottoman ]«Uk was landed and edße<i with sable fur. The 'hat wa6 i. 1 ; of jet-shinto?. sparkling jet; a tall 'feather waved from or.<- fidv. Showinr a tunic overskirt, short in front, trail- ilnpin a i>oint at the back, was a costume of lead colored meteor crepe. The underskirt, visible only *in front end a little on the Fides, was widely 'hemmed prtth lir.es of fine silk braid, the tops of |the sleeves, the wrists 3rd the edge of the low Iround corsage were trimmed !n the same manner. 'Tucked pray tulle, laid over 1right blue and silver changeable ntt. maSe the gt:imp and stock. On Uhe front of the bodice «as a ma?«« of raised em- broidery don*> in pold and silver threads, mingled jwith blue *nd gray. Topping this costume was a fhet cf lead colored silk, faced with blue velvet and (trimmed with blue and gray feathers. It was of the new shap*\ moderate In crown ard brim. Dip- gtiag « litti* on one f<id«>. on the other it curved jt3lsfctlyj t3lsfctly upward, sweeping gently sack. I>rop*plnp her long fur coat to the footman, the third woman showed all at once her charming Of Interest to Clubbvomen BAR HARBOR CHAIR <£>> ; No Charge for Seat Cushion. 9W. 42d St.. ~ Opposite Library. (SIGN OF THE "POPULAR SHOP.* NEW WING OF GIRTON COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND. BY HELEN' M. TTTIfSIXm. MILLIUS Society's rr.ist wciect and exclusive Hair !>:•?!>':. tea no* on ••x.r-.ibitlor. his very latest creations anl Importations In Hal Goods a^i Hair Ornaments. Also arpli<"atlcroa of Hen Noir and Henna iUonie In all the r.rtv shaJo-^ At THK PLAZA HOTEL «o?th SL Entrar-ce* and 1? Went 2«th St. - IMPORTER OF HAIR GOODS. 140 W. 44th St.. brt. B>iJ * «h »r. t . . rompaJours. transformations, wavy switches. ™JJ*** DlrectrMre. puffs, curls: specialist In hair c"!or:=«. JUr- eel wavJns. shampooing, manlcurire: facial, .cm,? treat- ments: ladies exclusively. Andre Hair Coloring restore. gray hair to Its or!«:ln»l color. Andre AlSfrtaa H*» Tonic cures dandruff, prevents hair faUinsi out^ In these days when II seesaa to the casual ob- rerver that there \u25a0 a woman's club at every cross ro?!J. directions for forming a club may appear superfluous, yet it is a fact that leaders in club •work receive every now and then requests for dl- reruons Ja jurt this way. And In this connection the- rul*s wit cut by the General Federation (in the form of opea letters on request) will have a distinct .value. In any neighborhood where there is one woman \u25a0who desires in form a rlub. and she has a friend or two in eympalhy v i'.h her. let lier issue invita- tion.* to such voma as 6he desires to meet at her own or any other house for a preliminary meet- in?. It Is not even necessary to 6tate ( In the in\-Ita- ticn for what purpose '\u25a0 is sent out. ' T , Is best to begin ar. organization very simply, ami [or that rtacon Cfea constitution should be a* short as pos- sible, leaving changes and additions to be put in the by-tews as occasion seems to demand. The < onstltution should include: 1. The name of the proposed club. : The object for which it Ss lonned'. 3. The number and duty of Its officers. 4. The time for holding the annual sieetins> •'. How many shall constitute a quorum. 6. How the miiilii illmi ebaS amended. Ui-lawc vary with the Mze and needs of the \u25a0dab. r.nd the rules for amending them should make it easier than la amend the constitution It- »-<\u25a0:' The most essential points to be covered by th« by-law* are: The time sad pases of regular icetUng; how the work of the club shall be pre- eentfd; Hie manner of electing officers; the order e.rifi business of annual meetirics; the authority on parliamentary usage: how the by-la may be a . uwadefi. r ItIs a Kot.a plan for she rr"poscr of th* club to **ri<i Iwfor'-han'i for th* constitution of som» oth*r Iclubs In order to have a aattera to go by. Iflnrx- pfr!»nced in such work. If thrr? 1? a limited •\u25a0. a lansi ;p, it is necessary as have a membership committee, and sometimes vlth an unlimited one such a committee hi advis- «ble. Following are -fxJ rules for taking In new , members: Here are some good resolves for clubwomen at the beginning of another year: Let us resolve That when asked to do committee work we will never excuse ourselves unless our home duties require it. That if we have to write a paper, we will not go to the encyclopedia for it. That when we rise to speak we will make our- selves heard, even if we have to practise at home first. That when the woman who was to apeak falls us at the last moment we will not say she never intended to do It anyway. That we will make the club a place where help- fulness and kindliness go hand in hand with in- spiration. That the Golden Rule is Just as good a guide to club life as to home life. And that we will adopt and practise it every- where. The name of a candidate must be presented to the committee in writing by the member proposing her, together with a statement of the qualifications that make her a desirable member. The proceedings of thin committee shall strict- ly confidential. The name of a candidate accepted by this com- mittee must te presented at a regular meeting, to be balloted upon at the next regular meeting. This Is the method in use by exclusive societies like the Colonial Dames. He. But as the club movement grows, the lines are a little less rigidly drawn, for the club movement alms to ba demo- cratic and to take In all classes of women, pro- vided they are of good moral character and not too quarrelsome in disposition. It is always advisable, whenever possible, to have present at the first meeting some woman who ie versed in club proceedings, as she knows how to start and manage an organization, and can give others a feeling of confidence and self-control that Is often lacking In the- formation of a new club. ~Tome Way* of the World MME. APHE, PICAUT Ostrich and Fancy Feathers, Boas, etc. REPAIRING. llßlMsl an* DYEING 33 West 34th Street Tel. 8312— 35tb. Formerly 04 West -Ist St.. X.T. Our work has given sat ufa for over fifty years to many of York's representative families Wfc feel that it will also sarufy daughters, fully grown, watch their mother's reck- less dealings with bated breath. Does the woman with the unlined eklrt realize how Immaculate must be her hosiery end the build of her boots? A well-braced ankle, a trim shoe and a straight heel are as important as the gown itself, for these things are quite as much displayed as if the skirts reached but half way \u25a0\u25a0law the knee In no era have the nether limbs been more freely shown than at the present time, and misshapen ankles ran be noted in almost every other fair pedestrian. The solitary woman '•' wealth, he she spinster e>r widow, has \u25a0)!*\u25a0\u25a0: to devote -her attention to the management of her affairs, as part of her <laily life, or else leave them entirely to some lawyer, whom she not only trusts impJicltely, bat to whom Eh* j'&ys a good percentage. It murt be one tblcc or the other, do dabbling or doing by haJv**?. else phe courts disaster. It is am rising. t«v>. how many »nm*i delicately reared. ''1 de- velop a. ke«n business intellect when left to manage their own \u25a0...•- The ii;Minct for money BLUE BLOODED CATS WHICH WILL BE EXHIBITED AT THE ATLANTIC CAT CLUB SHOW THIS WEEK. THOROUGH WORK AT GIRTON. It is not that Girton sends out such a large number of women with a bent toward civic af- fairs which Is worthy of remark, but the fact that when t'no Girtoman does tend that way she ma.kes a success of it. Naturally, for there is nothing feminine or superficial about a Glrton education. The college was founded on the un- derstanding that only women studying for hon- ors, and not. as most of the men do. for the or- dinary examination, should be enrolled there. and London, and In 3870 applied to the council Of the senate of the University of Cambridge to be examined by the university examiners. In that examination four first clasßes. and one sec- ond class were obtained. The worM was almost stunned at such ability on the part of mere women, and the following year enough funds were raised to begin the present buildings of Glrton When in 1873 Girton College was es- tablished outelde Cambridge and the number of students rapidly increased, the words "Girton girl" were as familiar in all comic songs, popu- lar Jokes and newspaper allusions as the mirth provoking "suffragette" is now. But it was no joke to the Girton girla themselves, and that they were never daunted by criticism is shown by the way in which Miss Dove has 6tea4Hy gone on Increasing In power, and only failed of being elected Mayor because, probably, the little borough of High WjrciOßßhe. seeing itself praised in many of the newspapers as the rx- tremest forerunner of radicalism and femlnin- ism. suddenly took alarm. Miss Dovp is not the only Girtonlan engaged in making- history. Lady Dorothy Howard. notable among the recent graduates of the col- lege, is an active woman suffragist, and can take the Btump as well as any boy fledgling of the universities who is intent on political am- bitions; Miss Frances Hardcastle, who was a brilliant mathematical Hsht at Girton. is now honorary secretary of the National Union of Women's Suffrage Societies. Miss Klion Me- Arthur (historical tripos, 1885>. whose class in economic history is attended in Cambridge by the mal>- undergraduates of the university, who cannot Jlnd any duplicate for It In their own colleges, is well kftown In all sorts of English societies to promote the interests of women in public life. As for what Mrs. Humphry Ward calls 'indirect influence;" in public life. Girton has that through Mrs. Walter Runciman, viio was Miss Hilda Stevenson before she was mar- ried to the Minister of Education. And there are many other instances. Tel . ll^-T OMSMi FUR S TIIESH OI.I». RELIABLE. TKAO fical furriers ar* apeetaliata in r *" mo<l*>r.i:iK. re>iy<Mnjt and r»f«!r!ng al kinds ot furs. mnk* ttM *'""< like new. an our prices ar-» th« yer1 " lowest ! W> a'.ro h«ve -\tw Fur» IS stock, and also make them t<» or!"*- 01.l Kurs taken In exchacs? 1 - >r reW- Hirshfeld Fur Co., 53 West 2 1st Street. y. NEW TOSOK CI7T. HUMANE DENTISTRY IMMEDIATE KFi.IIF For aciilnjr t«-eth. b!<^CinK sums. Extraction avM^t Teeth \u25a0• >rv*.l. Children's te^th ttOad littw a 7 . comfort. Pyorrh»a rurr-.i; eonatttatfamaJ trea:s»*nu j frown*. Br1«l«e* !'lm. s DR. !„ M. MARNIER. Oenti»t. til Wnt 31th !>:.. Adjoining Macy'* C*: *-» T*a^». Telephone 1037 SVth Street- "FED" HOTEL HELD UP. The City Federation Hotel, tor assail salaried working (iris. Is beginning to resume the position once occupied by the trades school In feminine politics. In fact, the different parties are playing battledore and shuttlecock with it. Last Saturday it was supposed the lease of two houses In Wash- ington Placo for this purpose was practically set- tlor), but the formal assent of the board of di- rectors. which met on Monday, was still require.!. and this the beard refused to give. Whether «ml not the effort to net the hotel under way at t;Jar time had anything to do With the election of the City Federation In February. its utility for cam- paign purposes was too evident to escape the at- tention of the enemy, nnd so It has been hen up. Negotiations are now under way for another home in West 10th street Whether thero will be al- '.owed to go through before February is a question in which the fair politicians of the Federation are talcing a deep and lively Interc3t. Mrs. Belle \u25a0'• Rivera, president of the hotel com- pany. and Mrs. William Grant Brown are the candidates for the presidency of the City Federa- tion. Three Hundred Blue Bibboners To Be at Atlantic Cat Chh Shore. Luxury -will be rampant, as Based, at the an- nual show of feline aristocrats, to be heid Tn the Madison Square Garden Concert Hall on Decem- ber 90 and 31 and January L In c©flne<-t?on -with the annual exhibition of the New York Poultry. Pigeon and Pet Stock Association The Atlantic Cat Club, under whose auspices the rat show is held, announces that the occasion will be. graced by the pre6er.ee of some of the mdst distinguished individuals In the cat world, and the background will be worthy of t:i« furry bluebloods. Most of them will repose in satin lined pens, cushions of eiderdown and velvet. The cat who hasn't a silver backed brush and a maid to make his toilet \u25a0will be considered not at all In our set, don't you know, by the other cats. Concerts -will be in the nature of a continuous performance. Wagnerian music in high G wtU be the rule, with a crowing chorus from the feathered contingent downstairs. Three hundred valuable oats will compete for blue ribbons and silver trophies— to gratify their mistresses. One, a blue-eyed Persian, is Im- maculata of Kensington, bo lately come from Lon- don that she hasn't lost her English accent yet. Immaculata is owned by Mrs. George Fahys. Miss Laura Gould Hopkins, secretary of the Atlantic Cat Club, will show her 'vThlte Aigrette, and also little Lad.. Friar, the charming daughter of White Aigrette and Sir Friar. Little Lady Friar 13 Quite an athlete, being able to take a rive-foot hurdle with ease. She is a kitten of most refined tastes, in spite of her athletic feats, and visitor! are \u25a0warned that any one having the faintest scent of perfumery, cigars or cigarettes will get nothing from her but an icy glare. Another feline aristocrat to be seen at the com- ing show Is Lord Kew Tangerine, owned by Mm AY. B. Wlswell, of Newtonvllle, Mass. Lord Kew's ancestral home Is In England, and the family tree Is all hung with prizes taken at Crystal Palace. Lord Kew. wkose complexion is a fine rich orange, has thirty-six sons and daughters as handsome as himself, all born during the last year, but the rumor that he will deliver a lecture at the show on •The Sin of Race Suicide" is incorrect. The show will be open each day from 9 o'clock in ihe morning until 10:30 at night. j > v FELINE ARISTOCRATS Alas, unconscious of their fats. The little -victims play. The f-re:- of the Dons are seared with marks of battle— of a struggle with their relatives, the world, even with themselves to get this edu- cation of theirs. And now, as they sit rather weary and laconic under their hard earned and scanty laurel?, they look down at the hearty, red cheeked generation beneath them, and rejoice that their old standard will still be carried— by even stouter arms than theirs. C. M. 11. v will not confer degrees upon women) are too proud to ever wear their academic caps and gowns except when visiting another college. An extraordinary feeling of loyalty and proud hu- mility makes them prefer not to assume what their own university does not choose to give them. TbeVe lecturers, or "Dons"— to use the still surviving classic slang of Fendennis and Tom Brown-are stern conservators of the tradition of scornfr! dignity that seems to breathe from this high thinking and plain living community of women. They hand down the ideals of stiff work for honors— good tennis, good coffee and no nonsense. They have a great horror of sen- tlmenta'.ity or effusiveness, in exactly the same degree as has a well bred Englishman. The Girton Dons have outgrown womanish mean- ness and unreasonableness, and they have also outgrown womanish chatter. If you go into the clubrocm. where they assemble for tea. you will find a dozen female edition* of Cato the Censor sitting in big willow chairs, each with a cup of tea In 1 *r lap. each reading a newspaper. There is not a sound in the room except the ringing of the kettle on the hob, and when even a veteran lecturer omes in, gets her tea and takes the last chair, no one looks up or pays the least at- tention to her. The principle is that ifyou have "nothing In particular to say you had better be reading the reports of Parliament. And yet, in spite of all this apparent indif- ference to human ties, there is as much "college spirit" at Girton as there is In any of America's more vcclferous institutions. Old students come* back every year after a plunge into the real world, and realize how much they love the big red tower through which one drives In at the front gate, the green "quads" over which the |dear old decayed cab horse, who will dig his toe* into the sacred smoothness of the turf, is al- ways pulling the lawn mower, and* the wood- lands at the back, with the surprising little lake therein, where two white swans, named John and Emma, sail forever stately. (John and Emma, so named after their donor*. St. John's and Emmanuel College!) The "old stu- dent" even visits the college vegetable garden, so prolific and unfailing In Its supplies that there is a Girton proverb running. "There Is as much salad in the garden as ever came out of i It," and she rejoices to dine "in hall' and eat the übiquitous lettuce and contemplate the Dons sitting grandly and coldly at the "high table" on their platform at the end of the dining room. If she does not regard the Dons with the same feeling of tremendous awe that she had for them as a young "fresher," she loves them and understands them better now. There Is something touching In the dryly affectionate smile they cast down at the new, young crop of martyrs dining below them. Pont »tarv» your^'.f or take harmful Jrus*. i^*i mm Kit !••\u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0 ««oH as a d«OCM« <\u25a0!•«•» m or Wj" '!!." fluid. which ran r>» (tpplli'rt any time; UllulHi °^,~J , drugstore. D H. Macy : .ircuUr sent' trtf. IS. riEr»t.ER. M»nufart»irer. "3 9th ar«T. v ** TW* LORD KEW TANGERINE. ARGE^T MODEL. ARGENT GLOrVOUS. LADY FRIAR. FRENCH MARKET MEAT*. rOl I.TRY. CAME. rnMai * F.C.ETABLES. GUOCERIES. \u0084, §&&.**«• and 25th St. r . ?3*,- sZil MaJ 1 I>Kl tM t«K»- rr^^. MILLEKSBATHS ,, H £SfST^- Separate department for laJle*. 9 a- «- «•»»• \u25a0 r. .«..-rr |1 V. t .r. v > , NS \u0084\u25a0 -^ ' c7rseiTtol)rder BSAS^-*:: Fl oral Decorator, G^sd^jf Malta iv. i 53d St. T«to»li«ae -..Vii p!a«« *~ l'ailnn'ficheerfully Riven. MME. BESSIE LAPAIX, 'l t3 WEST Mill ST.. Ilflwicn fifth Aye. and ti'way. New York Headquarter* for All Material* (or L»ilt-« ' 1 \u25a0«\u25a0.. : v Work. E*p>t-iully .Narrow JUbbona i for Pompadour Work and Killing Still. Worsted*. 6llk». Cottons. Canvases. EalublUUcd »* Ymii. The wemea lecturers a< Oirton, all -'f whom have degrees given by some other unhernity more getteroua than Cambridge ((<n CambrMga ' vicar's daughter from that of Lord So-and-So'a niece, who may sit next to her. LIFE IS STERN AT GIRTON. The buildings of the college, long, low struct- ures, all connected and standing at right angles to one another, like a pocket ruler unfolded, are also pait of the stern ascetic plan of life. The endless corridors are partly heated, It Is true, but at every yard stands an opened window, so that the fog and east winds of old England chase constantly up and down the stone floors. In the rooms a little grate fire supplies the only Bi>ot of warmth. At night it is a useful spot for giving out light, too, for the single lamp hardly throws much glow over your sitting room, and your bedroom candle must not be burned reck- lessly a d with wanton waste. You will need It when you go calling in some remote part of the building, for the gas Is put out at 10 o'clock, and ! If you happen to overstay that hour you will be roaming down the chillingcaverns of hallway In pitchy i arkness, unless you fall in with some wise and provident student who has brought h"r tin . undlestlck along with her. It Is a droll sight at an evening- party In this twentieth century to see the guests stacking outside the door their candlesticks for the home- ward Journey. I am not quite sure, but I think it must be at least a mile's walk from one end Of the Girton edifice to the other. Each joint of it is only one room thick, so that there will b*» plenty of air, and as each student has two good sized rooms the llzardlike structure crawls along for a seemingly Interminable length be- tween one point of interest, like the front door, to another vital spot, like the dining room. .The two rooms make for a greater dignity of life, though, than may be found In most of the American colleges for women. Tlm maid tiptoes j in every morning before you are up, softly shuts j your bedroom door and tidies up the sitting room, removing the coffee cups of last night's entertainment, sweeping the floor, laying your fire. And then, after breakfast, when you are working in your sitting room, she does the bed- room. The decoration of college rooms, too. Is more elegant and really comfortable than the bizarre trappings of most American Mlnervas. No Princeton banners ramp above plaster bulldogs or Teddy bears; no formless hill of pillo-vs with excruciating female heads machine embroidered <> i them takes up all the room left over from the tabourette laden with toy elephants. Instead, a pot of Michaelmas daisies, a copy of a Gainsbor- ough, an open fire, a coffee set, much used, and many deep old willow chairs, comprise the soothing and quiet furniture of Girton. ATTITUDE TOWARD MEN STUDENTS. Oirton prides itself on a spirit of irreriroach- ablo dignity and "good fbrjm," especially In re- spect to its relations with the university. In order to keep out the sort of girl who thinks her living at college may be the means of carry- ing on flirtations with the Cambridge male un- dergraduates, the woman's college was built at a good distance out of town, on a particularly/ dreary road, and the girls drive In to lectures in respectable and aged four wheelers, very slow li. pace, renowned throughout Cambridge. To £> •• all Girton come Into Cambridge In Cox's c:ibs is one of the most humorous things in the worM to the average Cantabrigian, who wonders why in the world girls will put up with so many absurd Inconveniences la order to get an educa- tion that in his opinion nobody cares about. In a sort of morbid dread of having their motives for being at Cambridge mistaken. Gir- ton students never walk with male undergrad- uates, and never go to Matthews's teashop. or to the Bull Hotel, or to any of the really rheery places for tea, because they arc frequented by the men. The girls betako themselves to dull and dim bakeshops. in the less fashionable street*. There is ,-i rule that the same male caller is not allowed to come more than once a term to Oirton, and in every other way the idea of soda! Intercourse with th« university la discouraged. m»Klng often develop*, also, «> that many of the . richest heiress*** are "on th» market." not us matrimonial raters, but as Investors and manipu- lators of storks. This passion as it grows become* pp*!i;r.. for an occasional Bfroke of luck with j trie ?T3liiin*> rt'»"k fK-rid. wipes <:i!t swminEly the r*<m^rr.branr* of ?ny !o:-ses and sh«" will plunge us fceavily at the ;,oldej;t f.j.anri»r. Once a taste for \u25a0P«>**u'ating If «l<»vH"j>^d it can never Ik- chf-ck^J a* many instances are there where sous and ••Down ob T^ng Island." "up the river." In "Jer- I sey'i hills" and. in fact. In ail country pln~-a the \u25a0 houses Hr open for the. Christmas holidays. Re- turning prosperity haa given an unprecedented boom to Santa Claus this rear. The youngsters wi'l have every 'wish gratifled. and by the same i token their elders will have merry house parties, I and the country 'lib hunt, balls and other New ' Year jollifications will be animated by a spirit that | ItU sees) mourned as lacking fur several seasons. i So all Glrton girl? must work harder than th» average Cambridge man. It is the only wom- an's college in England where euch an extraor- dinarily high standard Is a necessity, for even NVunhani, the other famous woman's institu- tion nt Cambridge, docs not always insist that a student shnll receive a certificate from the university us well as from her college, and th- result at (Jirton is a small number of students NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE. SrSDAT. DECEMOTR^T^OOa \u25a0JfEtV " i vJJtvJLV xJAi~LiJL' - XXVXX>UX^XL<» •\u25a0- ij*-> i. *\u25a0\u25a0 . - \u25a0ARE YOUTODFAT?] /^nl^k "-^ '*\u25a0*\u25a0* S wS \§i £¥ jffl U m£ft M rat r& Jv ttra Wok jS £f . Ja3 ft \ 4

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Page 1: Fashionable Tsea *Room MODE AT Jos. Schonleben Seen at ......Fashionable Tsea *Room Under my personal super.-ision. which insures.; the highest degree of perfection in artistie-. workmanship

Seen at a. Fashionable Tsea *Room

Under my personal super .-ision. which insures.;the highest degree of perfection in artistie-.workmanship and fit.

Furs Bought for New Year Gift*

Will Be Delivered on Time.

Jos. SchonlebenFURRIER

822 SIXTH AYE.Phone 723 Bryant. B«t *6rh and 47:h Bta.

Imake Fur Garments to order, usingthe very best quality of choice se-

lected skins exclusively.

ALLMANUFACTURINGIs Done on the Premises

Cambridge. England. Dec. 17.-The recent no-

tire given in England or tne candidacy of Mis-

Jane Frances Dove for Mayor of High Wy-

combe has brought again to public attentionwhat was once considered a most extraordinary

•nstiti.tlon-nameiy. Girton College. The state-

ly an.l Intrepid Miss Dove, who bore nil the

rigors of election time with euch admirablephilosophy and said of her defeat that the•whole campaign was worth while, since it

showed England that the only thing her ene-

mies tou'd find to say about her u«ntne3s for

the Mayoralty was that she was a woman, was

one of the very first women who more than

thirty years a^o astonished the world by in-sisting on attending examinations at Cambridga

University. She and two of three others haiibeen preparing and studying at a little hired

house at Hitchin. a place between Cambridge

Some Points of Contrast with

Institutions of the Same Kind

in This Country.

OBSEBVATIONS OF AMER-

ICAN STUDENT THERE.

MODE OF LIFE, ATGIRTON COLLEGE

only two hundred or so—but a picked Mofm!iil«. No "snap" courses there! Each student

burins to specialize at once in mathematics,

e.momlcs. philosophy, or whatever her choice

may be. and keep* it up for three years, till b'r

examination. There is. therefore, a more

continual Matins of lamps and girding of loins

than at most of the American oolleree for women.

American colleges Kive all sorts of girls an Idea

of what an educated person ought to kr,mv-as

well as a social stimulus. « "good time"—and

thrre is a hilarity and richness or color. \u25a0 \u25a0•»••-

In?- infusion of gayly dad Idlers erho 'come for

th' life," which does not disturb the real stu-

de-ite. but makes grlad their sterner Bvea The

professor's daughter from a poor New England

vilaga may room next door to a belle of Pitts-

burg, and while she explains the "Vita Kuova

of Dante to her affluent neighbor and perhaps

aajaJM Pittsburg's ears to the choir invisible.

aha is learning how to fix her own neglected

ha r in the splendid halo faishion of the belle**Hut there is a sterner consistency of atasoe-

ph-re at Girton. Dancing occurs only one \u25a0

week. After dinner you ought to be not dan<--

inr but working up material for the debating

CM b. Dramatics make a senseless wastn «'f

time, supper parties are not childish orgies r>U"fudge," but the adult and civilized enjoyment

of coffee—

mad« with great care— and biscuits.C.trtontnns rather pride themselves on a Spar-

tan indifference to luxury, and consider that iftlvy come to oollfge for mental training that ts

all they need live for at the time. Round hats

with one bow of ribbon on them, thick boots, anulfter, no umbrella, is the costume of the day;

aniat night, though they dress for dinner in th«low nec.ic-d dress of "the world." the gown is ofsome modest black material. There i» nothing

to dlstinsuigh the costume of a »truggl!ng

JOSEPH P. McHUCH &CO.Can Now .Make Deliveries erf

THE HANDWROUGHT WII.T.QW

The Secret to SlendernessLies in the wearing of the Famous

Dissolvene Rubber Garmentsthe only harmless and efffctßßlmethod to

ReduceSuperfluous Flesh

Without EffortMade of Finest pure Para Rubber

\u2666o cover any part of the body, wornunder the clothing at any or eHtimes •nut the slightest lnc«i-^Tenience or annoyance.No drugs, no dieting, no change inthe mode of living. Recommended byphysicians. RESULTS POSITIVE.

Call at our parlors or send forBooklet W.

DISSOLVENE COMPANY.Astor Court iAdjoining Waldorf-Astoria*.IS West S4th St.. X. V T«l.. 35M

—3*tii.

Carriage entrance. 2.". West 83.1 Sc

costume cf dead leaf cloth. Like all the latest

gowns the skirt showed a trifle more fulness, ye-

It etnas closely over the hips, the serpent tail train

writhed narrowly after her as she Bought a table,

anft as she seated herself with a knowing swoop

It was deftly deposited under her chair, coiled into

a heap like a live thing:. It was a redlnsote gown,

closing at one side of the front with three .arge

buttons Just below th« waist line, and turning low

from the neck into narrow revers. Starting from

the edge, beginning just below the buttons, went a

wide hand of embroidery mounted under the arm

to pas« about the figure and end under the rever-Colored velvet ribbon woven through lace entre-

deux finished the stock at its base, end a band of

lace laid over colored velvet filled a space above

the rever?. Her hat. an immense mob crown of

black velvet shirred on great cords on the two-inchbrim, suggested a fanciful rim to a great Inverted

bowl. A twist of velvet, with perky ends set at

MMskle. was the only trimming.

Black hats are charmingly trimmed with

bunches of sliv»r raising: nothing else. The effect

is one of extreme refinement. Allstreet costuming

is strangely quiet-black or dark tones of taupe

and the enchanting yet deeply sombre lead color.Coat skirt and hat. all of this deep dark shade-coldly ilajaal aril wcrn by a tall, gray hairedyet young beauty in the luncheon room of the Ritz

a few days ago. As she came in the bunch of

violets pinned to her huge muff of srmine fur was

the only touch of color visible. But when the coat

was thrown aside there was a lovely bodice cf

silver tulle veiled with leau colored tulle, em-

broidered In pale green and old rose tones. It was

in perfect harmony with the hair and the cool,

fresh tints of the complexion. The top of the

-kin that reached in girdle fashion up onto the

lull- bodl-e. was *dged with a little soutachebraiding. The tight sleeves, of the cloth of the

"cstume. shewed the new adornment, several inches

of braiding at the top ending In a straight line,

and a similar bit at the wrist. Between were cir-

cling tucks.Tl.e latest tailored costumes show cloth skirts

with half-lorg coats of velveteen or heavy silk.

matching In color. These are strictly for travelling

or forvmorning wear. For more dressy occasions

the redimrote. or the one-piec* frown, is the correct

thin- The short coats are of straight cut. with100-e fronts sloping sharply back, and seamlessbacks, cleverly adjusted to the figure, defining

without touching it.White gloves are no longer worn in the street,

or indeed, anywhere. For all occasions gloves are

either carefully matched to the costume or se-

lected from pale shades of flesh? biscuit and tan.

besides the natural tones of suede. Evening shoes

are of silk or satin to match the gown, em-

broidered with tiny pearls, beads and jet; they are

further beautified by gold or silvered Louis XV

heels and big buckles.Lace is little used at the moment- It ie, there-

fore, a good time to purchase it.MARGARET ALICE FRIEND-

Last Word in Gowns Worn by Three Graceful Parisiennes—Street Costumes Are Very Subdued*.

Paris. December 17.

In the Salon <3* ; a :• •. just closed, there wr.sabwlutely ncthinc t-.ev. in ik« stalls and eat <>-

voted to pownins for this sort cf progression.Therp were the already classic manteaus of thick\u25a0wool in piny and prrenish tones, lined with petlt-

rris. real or caracul, with wide collar and hugecuffs of coar?=er rur offering more resistance to theweather. The he.ad covering* were indeed pretty,

as well 8s practical. The fur turban, or bonnet.Such as one s»^B everywhere, was the favorite. Afeat that had an air cf novelty was a silk cabriolet,

fur trimmed, and ti«Kl ly wide "brides" of LibertyriMar. As nearly a!! the ai:tos are closed now a*pecja.l order of costume is not necessary-

The Interior of the motor car Is truly luxurious,

laaastaaaaa; practical things and luxuries in a mar-vellrus manner. One may play bridge, write,

•elect a bock to read, smoke and make a toiletfor •\u25a0 •:\u25a0'•

A party c* three women left by their car at the"coor of a smart taa room yesterday were allgowned hi the latest fashions. A one-piece gown

Cf clack velvet showed a pretty garniture ina tine

Jet aid aUk braiding on the top and wrist of thetight sleeves, and in a narrow border about the

«m*;: ?=quar<-r;it neck. Itbroadened on the shoul-ders to meet that on Ike top of the sleeve The tinyejuiiciw and chocker were Slack dotted net. laidjg»v?r a bit of bright colored brocaded ribbon,

stretched diagonally across. Such a pretty touch!

JTb* frJH? .at finished the stock and foil over the*fcaj«d« were *

.£\u25a0 : lightly with fur. This cut or•fotm shows no waist line; It hangs Ftraight from'the shoulder to below the hip lines; It flares then.•Slightly, to allow ease of movement, 'The train

"snarea a perfectly sharp point, achieved by insert-=tnr into the back seam a square breadth with the{upper ends shaped, to avoid over-much fulness.tOver th:» costume of black velvet was worn a wide'mar,; *.lons enough to touch the ground or. either

laid* I: was finished with the new eilk fringe,*«hot«in; a netted heading, quite twelve inches in

v This mantle of heavy srajM preen Ottoman]«Uk was landed and edße<i with sable fur. The

'hat wa6 i.1; of jet-shinto?. sparkling jet; a tall'feather waved from or.<- fidv.

Showinr a tunic overskirt, short in front, trail-

ilnpin a i>oint at the back, was a costume of leadcolored meteor crepe. The underskirt, visible only

*in front end a little on the Fides, was widely

'hemmed prtth lir.es of fine silk braid, the tops of|the sleeves, the wrists 3rd the edge of the low

Iround corsage were trimmed !n the same manner.'Tucked pray tulle, laid over 1right blue and silverchangeable ntt. maSe the gt:imp and stock. On

Uhe front of the bodice «as a ma?«« of raised em-broidery don*> in pold and silver threads, mingled

jwithblue *nd gray. Topping this costume was a

fhet cf lead colored silk, faced with blue velvet and(trimmed with blue and gray feathers. It was of

the new shap*\ moderate In crown ard brim. Dip-

gtiag « litti*on one f<id«>. on the other it curvedjt3lsfctlyjt3lsfctly upward, sweeping gently sack.

I>rop*plnp her long fur coat to the footman, thethird woman showed all at once her charming

Of Interest to Clubbvomen BAR HARBOR CHAIR <£>> ;No Charge for Seat Cushion.

9W. 42d St..~

Opposite Library.(SIGN OF THE "POPULAR SHOP.*

NEW WING OF GIRTON COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE, ENGLAND.

BY HELEN' M. TTTIfSIXm.

MILLIUSSociety's rr.ist wciect and exclusive Hair !>:•?!>':. tea no*on ••x.r-.ibitlor. his very latest creations anl ImportationsIn Hal Goods a^i Hair Ornaments. Also arpli<"atlcroaof Hen Noir and Henna iUonie In all the r.rtv shaJo-^At THK PLAZA HOTEL «o?th SL Entrar-ce* and 1?Went 2«th St. -

IMPORTER OF HAIR GOODS.140 W. 44th St.. brt. B>iJ *«h »r.

t..rompaJours. transformations, wavy switches. ™JJ***DlrectrMre. puffs, curls: specialist In hair c"!or:=«. JUr-

eel wavJns. shampooing, manlcurire: facial, .cm,? treat-ments: ladies exclusively. Andre Hair Coloring restore.gray hair to Its or!«:ln»l color. Andre AlSfrtaa H*»Tonic cures dandruff, prevents hair faUinsi out^

In these days when II seesaa to the casual ob-

rerver that there \u25a0 a woman's club at every crossro?!J. directions for forming a club may appear

superfluous, yet it is a fact that leaders in club

•work receive every now and then requests for dl-

reruons Ja jurt this way. And In this connectionthe- rul*s wit cut by the General Federation (in

the form of opea letters on request) will have adistinct .value.

In any neighborhood where there is one woman\u25a0who desires in form a rlub. and she has a friendor two in eympalhy v i'.h her. let lier issue invita-tion.* to such voma as 6he desires to meet ather own or any other house for a preliminary meet-

in?. ItIs not even necessary to 6tate(In the in\-Ita-

ticn for what purpose '\u25a0 is sent out.'

T,Is best

to begin ar. organization very simply, ami [or that

rtacon Cfea constitution should be a* short as pos-sible, leaving changes and additions to be put inthe by-tews as occasion seems to demand.The < onstltution should include: 1. The name of

the proposed club. :The object for which it Ss

lonned'. 3. The number and duty of Its officers.

4. The time for holding the annual sieetins> •'.

How many shall constitute a quorum. 6. How the

miiiliiillmi ebaS b« amended.Ui-lawc vary with the Mze and needs of the

\u25a0dab. r.nd the rules for amending them should

make it easier than la amend the constitution It-»-<\u25a0:' The most essential points to be covered by

th« by-law* are: The time sad pases of regularicetUng; how the work of the club shall be pre-eentfd; Hie manner of electing officers; the ordere.rifibusiness of annual meetirics; the authority onparliamentary usage: how the by-la may be

a .uwadefi.r ItIs a Kot.a plan for she rr"poscr of th* club to

**ri<i Iwfor'-han'i for th* constitution of som» oth*r

Iclubs Inorder to have a aattera to go by. Iflnrx-pfr!»nced in such work.

If thrr? 1? a limited •\u25a0. a lansi ;p, it is necessary

as have a membership committee, and sometimesvlth an unlimited one such a committee hi advis-«ble. Following are -fxJ rules for taking In new,members:

Here are some good resolves for clubwomen at

the beginning of another year: Let us resolveThat when asked to do committee work we will

never excuse ourselves unless our home dutiesrequire it.

That if we have to write a paper, we will not goto the encyclopedia for it.

That when we rise to speak we will make our-selves heard, even if we have to practise at homefirst.

That when the woman who was to apeak fallsus at the last moment we will not say she neverintended to do It anyway.

That we willmake the club a place where help-fulness and kindliness go hand in hand with in-spiration.

That the Golden Rule is Just as good a guide to

club life as to home life.And that we will adopt and practise it every-

where.

The name of a candidate must be presented to thecommittee in writingby the member proposing her,

together with a statement of the qualifications thatmake her a desirable member.

The proceedings of thin committee shall b« strict-lyconfidential.

The name of a candidate accepted by this com-mittee must te presented at a regular meeting, tobe balloted upon at the next regular meeting.

This Is the method in use by exclusive societieslike the Colonial Dames. He. But as the club

movement grows, the lines are a little less rigidlydrawn, for the club movement alms to ba demo-cratic and to take In all classes of women, pro-vided they are of good moral character and not too

quarrelsome in disposition.

Itis always advisable, whenever possible, to havepresent at the first meeting some woman who ieversed in club proceedings, as she knows how to

start and manage an organization, and can giveothers a feeling of confidence and self-control thatIs often lacking In the- formation of a new club.

~Tome Way* of the World

MME.APHE, PICAUTOstrich and FancyFeathers, Boas, etc.

REPAIRING. llßlMsl an*DYEING

33 West 34th StreetTel. 8312— 35tb.

Formerly 04 West -Ist St.. X.T.Our work has given sat ufa

for over fifty years to many ofYork's representative familiesWfc feel that it willalso sarufy

daughters, fullygrown, watch their mother's reck-less dealings with bated breath.

Does the woman with the unlined eklrt realizehow Immaculate must be her hosiery end thebuild of her boots? A well-braced ankle, a trimshoe and a straight heel are as important as thegown itself, for these things are quite as muchdisplayed as if the skirts reached but half way

\u25a0\u25a0law the knee In no era have the nether limbsbeen more freely shown than at the present time,

and misshapen ankles ran be noted in almostevery other fair pedestrian.

The solitary woman '•' wealth, he she spinster

e>r widow, has • \u25a0)!*\u25a0\u25a0: to devote -her attention to

the management of her affairs, as part of her<laily life, or else leave them entirely to somelawyer, whom she not only trusts impJicltely, batto whom Eh* j'&ys a good percentage. It murt beone tblcc or the other, do dabbling or doing by

haJv**?. else phe courts disaster. It is am rising.t«v>. how many »nm*i delicately reared. ''1 de-velop a. ke«n business intellect when left to managetheir own \u25a0...•- The ii;Minct for money

BLUE BLOODED CATS WHICH WILL BE EXHIBITED AT THE ATLANTIC CAT CLUB SHOW THIS WEEK.

THOROUGH WORK AT GIRTON.It is not that Girton sends out such a large

number of women with a bent toward civic af-

fairs which Is worthy of remark, but the factthat when t'no Girtoman does tend that way shema.kes a success of it. Naturally, for there isnothing feminine or superficial about a Glrton

education. The college was founded on the un-derstanding that only women studying for hon-ors, and not. as most of the men do. for the or-dinary examination, should be enrolled there.

and London, and In 3870 applied to the councilOf the senate of the University of Cambridge to

be examined by the university examiners. In

that examination four first clasßes. and one sec-

ond class were obtained. The worM was almost

stunned at such ability on the part of mere

women, and the following year enough fundswere raised to begin the present buildings of

Glrton When in 1873 Girton College was es-tablished outelde Cambridge and the number ofstudents rapidly increased, the words "Girton

girl" were as familiar in all comic songs, popu-lar Jokes and newspaper allusions as the mirthprovoking "suffragette" is now. But it was no

joke to the Girton girla themselves, and thatthey were never daunted by criticism is shown

by the way in which Miss Dove has 6tea4Hy

gone on Increasing In power, and only failed ofbeing elected Mayor because, probably, thelittle borough of High WjrciOßßhe. seeing itselfpraised in many of the newspapers as the rx-

tremest forerunner of radicalism and femlnin-ism. suddenly took alarm.

Miss Dovp is not the only Girtonlan engaged

in making- history. Lady Dorothy Howard.notable among the recent graduates of the col-lege, is an active woman suffragist, and cantake the Btump as well as any boy fledgling ofthe universities who is intent on political am-bitions; Miss Frances Hardcastle, who was a

brilliant mathematical Hsht at Girton. is nowhonorary secretary of the National Union ofWomen's Suffrage Societies. Miss Klion Me-

Arthur (historical tripos, 1885>. whose class in

economic history is attended in Cambridge by

the mal>- undergraduates of the university, whocannot Jlnd any duplicate for It In their owncolleges, is well kftown In all sorts of English

societies to promote the interests of women inpublic life. As for what Mrs. Humphry Ward

calls 'indirect influence;" in public life. Girton

has that through Mrs. Walter Runciman, viiowas Miss Hilda Stevenson before she was mar-

ried to the Minister of Education. And there

are many other instances.

Tel . ll^-T OMSMi

FUR STIIESH OI.I». RELIABLE. TKAO

fical furriers ar* apeetaliata in r*"mo<l*>r.i:iK. re>iy<Mnjt and r»f«!r!ng alkinds ot furs. W» mnk* ttM *'""<like new. an our prices ar-» th« yer1

"lowest ! W> a'.ro h«ve -\tw Fur» ISstock, and also make them t<» or!"*-01.l Kurs taken In exchacs? •

1->r reW-

Hirshfeld Fur Co.,53 West 21st Street.

y. NEW TOSOK CI7T.

HUMANE DENTISTRYIMMEDIATE KFi.IIF

For aciilnjr t«-eth. b!<^CinK sums. Extraction avM^tTeeth \u25a0• >rv*.l. Children's te^th ttOad littw a 7 .comfort. Pyorrh»a rurr-.i; eonatttatfamaJ trea:s»*nu j

frown*. Br1«l«e* !'lm. sDR. !„M. MARNIER. Oenti»t.

til Wnt 31th !>:.. Adjoining Macy'* C*: *-» T*a^».Telephone 1037

—SVth Street-

"FED" HOTEL HELD UP.The City Federation Hotel, tor assail salaried

working (iris. Is beginning to resume the position

once occupied by the trades school In femininepolitics. In fact, the different parties are playingbattledore and shuttlecock with it. Last Saturdayit was supposed the lease of two houses In Wash-ington Placo for this purpose was practically set-tlor), but the formal assent of the board of di-rectors. which met on Monday, was still require.!.and this the beard refused to give. Whether «mlnot the effort to net the hotel under way at t;Jartime had anything to do With the election of theCity Federation In February. its utility for cam-paign purposes was too evident to escape the at-tention of the enemy, nnd so It has been hen up.Negotiations are now under way for another homein West 10th street Whether thero will be al-'.owed to go through before February is a questionin which the fair politicians of the Federation aretalcing a deep and livelyInterc3t.

Mrs. Belle \u25a0'• Rivera, president of the hotel com-pany. and Mrs. William Grant Brown are thecandidates for the presidency of the City Federa-tion.

Three Hundred Blue Bibboners ToBe at Atlantic Cat Chh Shore.

Luxury -will be rampant, as Based, at the an-nual show of feline aristocrats, to be heid Tn theMadison Square Garden Concert Hall on Decem-ber 90 and 31 and January L In c©flne<-t?on -withthe annual exhibition of the New York Poultry.Pigeon and Pet Stock Association The AtlanticCat Club, under whose auspices the rat show isheld, announces that the occasion will be. gracedby the pre6er.ee of some of the mdst distinguishedindividuals In the cat world, and the backgroundwill be worthy of t:i« furry bluebloods. Most ofthem willrepose in satin lined pens, cushionsof eiderdown and velvet. The cat who hasn't asilver backed brush and a maid to make his toilet\u25a0will be considered not at all In our set, don't youknow, by the other cats.

Concerts -will be in the nature of a continuousperformance. Wagnerian music in high G wtU bethe rule, with a crowing chorus from the featheredcontingent downstairs.

Three hundred valuable oats will compete forblue ribbons and silver trophies— to gratifytheir mistresses. One, a blue-eyed Persian, is Im-maculata of Kensington, bo lately come from Lon-don that she hasn't lost her English accent yet.Immaculata is owned by Mrs. George Fahys. MissLaura Gould Hopkins, secretary of the AtlanticCat Club, will show her 'vThlte Aigrette, and alsolittle Lad.. Friar, the charming daughter of WhiteAigrette and Sir Friar. Little Lady Friar 13 Quitean athlete, being able to take a rive-foot hurdlewith ease. She is a kitten of most refined tastes,

in spite of her athletic feats, and visitor! are\u25a0warned that any one having the faintest scent ofperfumery, cigars or cigarettes will get nothingfrom her but an icy glare.

Another feline aristocrat to be seen at the com-ing show Is Lord Kew Tangerine, owned by MmAY. B. Wlswell, of Newtonvllle, Mass. Lord Kew'sancestral home Is In England, and the family treeIs all hung with prizes taken at Crystal Palace.Lord Kew. wkose complexion is a fine rich orange,has thirty-six sons and daughters as handsomeas himself, all born during the last year, but therumor that he will deliver a lecture at the show on•The Sin of Race Suicide" is incorrect.

The show will be open each day from 9 o'clockin ihe morning until 10:30 at night.

j > v

FELINE ARISTOCRATS

Alas, unconscious of their fats.The little -victims play.

The f-re:- of the Dons are seared with marksof battle— of a struggle with their relatives, theworld, even with themselves

—to get this edu-

cation of theirs. And now, as they sit ratherweary and laconic under their hard earned andscanty laurel?, they look down at the hearty, redcheeked generation beneath them, and rejoicethat their old standard willstill be carried— byeven stouter arms than theirs. C. M. 11.

vwill not confer degrees upon women) are too

proud to ever wear their academic caps andgowns except when visiting another college. An

extraordinary feeling of loyalty and proud hu-

mility makes them prefer not to assume what

their own university does not choose to give

them.• TbeVe lecturers, or "Dons"— to use the still

surviving classic slang of Fendennis and Tom

Brown-are stern conservators of the traditionof scornfr! dignity that seems to breathe from

this high thinking and plain livingcommunity

of women. They hand down the ideals of stiff

work for honors— good tennis, good coffee andno nonsense. They have a great horror of sen-tlmenta'.ity or effusiveness, in exactly the same

degree as has a well bred Englishman. The

Girton Dons have outgrown womanish mean-ness and unreasonableness, and they have also

outgrown womanish chatter. Ifyou go into theclubrocm. where they assemble for tea. you willfind a dozen female edition* of Cato the Censorsitting in big willow chairs, each with a cup of

tea In1 *rlap. each reading a newspaper. Thereis not a sound in the room except the ringing ofthe kettle on the hob, and when even a veteran

lecturer omes in, gets her tea and takes the

last chair, no one looks up or pays the least at-tention to her. The principle is that ifyou have

"nothing In particular to say you had better bereading the reports of Parliament.

And yet, in spite of all this apparent indif-ference to human ties, there is as much "collegespirit" at Girton as there is Inany of America'smore vcclferous institutions. Old students come*

back every year after a plunge into the realworld, and realize how much they love the big

red tower through which one drives In at thefront gate, the green "quads" over which the

|dear old decayed cab horse, who willdig his toe*into the sacred smoothness of the turf, is al-ways pulling the lawn mower, and* the wood-lands at the back, with the surprising little laketherein, where two white swans, named Johnand Emma, sail forever stately. (John andEmma, so named after their donor*. St. John's

and Emmanuel College!) The "old stu-dent" even visits the college vegetable garden,

so prolific and unfailing In Its supplies that

there is a Girton proverb running. "There Is asmuch salad in the garden as ever came out ofiIt," and she rejoices to dine "in hall' and eat

the übiquitous lettuce and contemplate the Donssitting grandly and coldly at the "high table"

on their platform at the end of the dining

room. If she does not regard the Dons withthe same feeling of tremendous awe that shehad for them as a young "fresher," she lovesthem and understands them better now. ThereIs something touching In the dryly affectionatesmile they cast down at the new, young crop ofmartyrs dining below them.

Pont »tarv» your^'.f or take harmful Jrus*. i^*imm Kit !••\u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0 ««oH as a d«OCM« <\u25a0!•«•» m or Wj"'!!."fluid. which ran r>» (tpplli'rt any time; UllulHi°^,~J,drugstore. D H. Macy:.ircuUr sent' trtf.IS. riEr»t.ER. M»nufart»irer. "3 9th ar«T. v **TW*

LORD KEW TANGERINE. ARGE^T MODEL.ARGENT GLOrVOUS. LADY FRIAR.FRENCH MARKET

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MME. BESSIE LAPAIX, 'lt3 WEST Mill ST..

Ilflwicnfifth Aye. and ti'way.New YorkHeadquarter* for All Material* (or L»ilt-«

'1\u25a0«\u25a0..:vWork. E*p>t-iully .Narrow JUbbona ifor Pompadour Work and Killing Still.

Worsted*. 6llk». Cottons. Canvases.EalublUUcd »* Ymii.

The wemea lecturers a< Oirton, all -'f whomhave degrees given by some other unhernity

more getteroua than Cambridge ((<n CambrMga

'vicar's daughter from that of Lord So-and-So'aniece, who may sit next to her.

LIFE IS STERN AT GIRTON.The buildings of the college, long, low struct-

ures, all connected and standing at right angles

to one another, like a pocket ruler unfolded, are

also pait of the stern ascetic plan of life. Theendless corridors are partly heated, It Is true,

but at every yard stands an opened window, sothat the fog and east winds of old England

chase constantly up and down the stone floors.

In the rooms a little grate fire supplies the only

Bi>ot of warmth. At night itis a useful spot forgiving out light, too, for the single lamp hardly

throws much glow over your sitting room, andyour bedroom candle must not be burned reck-lessly a d with wanton waste. You willneed It

when you go calling in some remote part of thebuilding, for the gas Is put out at 10 o'clock, and

!If you happen to overstay that hour you willberoaming down the chillingcaverns of hallway Inpitchy iarkness, unless you fall in with somewise and provident student who has broughth"r tin .undlestlck along with her.ItIs a droll sight at an evening- party In this

twentieth century to see the guests stacking

outside the door their candlesticks for the home-ward Journey. Iam not quite sure, but Ithinkitmust be at least a mile's walk from one endOf the Girton edifice to the other. Each joint

of it is only one room thick, so that there willb*» plenty of air, and as each student has twogood sized rooms the llzardlike structure crawlsalong for a seemingly Interminable length be-tween one point of interest, like the front door,

to another vital spot, like the dining room..The two rooms make for a greater dignity of

life, though, than may be found In most of theAmerican colleges for women. Tlm maid tiptoes

jin every morning before you are up, softly shutsjyour bedroom door and tidies up the sittingroom, removing the coffee cups of last night'sentertainment, sweeping the floor, laying yourfire. And then, after breakfast, when you areworking in your sitting room, she does the bed-room.

The decoration of college rooms, too. Is moreelegant and really comfortable than the bizarretrappings of most American Mlnervas. NoPrinceton banners ramp above plaster bulldogsor Teddy bears; no formless hill of pillo-vs withexcruciating female heads machine embroidered<> ithem takes up all the room left over from thetabourette laden with toy elephants. Instead, apot of Michaelmas daisies, a copy of a Gainsbor-ough, an open fire, a coffee set, much used, andmany deep old willow chairs, comprise thesoothing and quiet furniture of Girton.

ATTITUDE TOWARD MEN STUDENTS.Oirton prides itself on a spirit of irreriroach-

ablo dignity and "good fbrjm," especially In re-spect to its relations with the university. Inorder to keep out the sort of girl who thinksher livingat college may be the means of carry-ing on flirtations with the Cambridge male un-dergraduates, the woman's college was built ata good distance out of town, on a particularly/dreary road, and the girls drive In to lectures inrespectable and aged four wheelers, very slowli. pace, renowned throughout Cambridge. To£> •• all Girton come Into Cambridge In Cox'sc:ibs is one of the most humorous things in theworM to the average Cantabrigian, who wonderswhy in the world girls willput up with so manyabsurd Inconveniences la order to get an educa-tion that in his opinion nobody cares about.

In a sort of morbid dread of having theirmotives for being at Cambridge mistaken. Gir-ton students never walk with male undergrad-uates, and never go to Matthews's teashop. orto the Bull Hotel, or to any of the really rheeryplaces for tea, because they arc frequented bythe men. The girls betako themselves to dulland dim bakeshops. in the less fashionablestreet*. There is ,-i rule that the same malecaller is not allowed to come more than oncea term to Oirton, and in every other way theidea of soda! Intercourse with th« universityla discouraged.

m»Klng often develop*, also, «> that many of the .richest heiress*** are "on th» market." not usmatrimonial raters, but as Investors and manipu-lators of storks. This passion as it grows become*•pp*!i;r.. for an occasional Bfroke of luck with jtrie ?T3liiin*> rt'»"k fK-rid. wipes <:i!t swminEly ther*<m^rr.branr* of ?ny !o:-ses and sh«" will plunge usfceavily at the ;,oldej;t f.j.anri»r. Once a taste for\u25a0P«>**u'ating If «l<»vH"j>^d it can never Ik- chf-ck^Ja* many instances are there where sous and

••Down ob T^ng Island." "up the river." In "Jer- Isey'i hills" and. in fact. Inail country pln~-a the \u25a0

houses Hr open for the. Christmas holidays. Re-turning prosperity haa given an unprecedentedboom to Santa Claus this rear. The youngsterswi'l have every 'wish gratifled. and by the same i

token their elders willhave merry house parties, Iand the country 'lib hunt, balls and other New

'Year jollifications will be animated by a spirit that |ItU sees) mourned as lacking fur several seasons. i

So all Glrton girl? must work harder than th»average Cambridge man. It is the only wom-an's college in England where euch an extraor-dinarily high standard Is a necessity, for evenNVunhani, the other famous woman's institu-tion nt Cambridge, docs not always insist thata student shnll receive a certificate from theuniversity us well as from her college, and th-result at (Jirton is a small number of students

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