fashion tech · major trends in fashion industry i fashion tech for a fashion brand, it is hard to...

Fashion Tech

Milan, February 2018

Source: FashionbiSource: Fashionbi

1

Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center and Fashionbi have identified and analyzed five main trends in

2018 that will be growing in the next years and will impact the global Fashion & Luxury markets.

These five main trends are:

Fashion Tech

Fashion & Healthcare;

Digital Retail Marketing;

Brands’ Collaborations for Market Expansion;

Socially Responsible Business.

In 2018 Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center and Fashionbi will prepare 3 reports. Each report will

contain an analysis of the chosen trend and will be supported by the case-studies of the existing players

in the industry as well as startups.


2

The 3 Reports (English and Italian) in pipeline are:

1st Report 2018: Fashion Tech: innovations in product design, production and

deliveries

2nd Report 2018: Fashion & Healthcare: the cross - link between fashion market

and the healthcare industry – End June 2018

3rd Report 2018: Digital Retail Marketing: modern techniques to reach potential

customers and increase business efficiency – End October 2018


1 Major Trends in Fashion Industry

2 Fashion Tech

3 Innovation in Fabrics

4 Innovation in Design

5 Innovation in Production

6 Smart Products

7 Innovation in Delivery

8 Future of the Fashion Industry

INDEX

3


4

Major Trends in Fashion Industry

FASHION TECH FASHION &

HEALTHCARE

DIGITAL RETAILING

MARKETING

BRANDS’

COLLABORATIONS

SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE

BUSINESS


5

It has become clear that traditional shopping and service are not enough, so the brands are going the extra

mile and are attempting to provide a unique experience by introducing technology into the shopping. Some

brands were able to amaze and captivate customers with an even stronger “Wow effect” by introducing

Virtual Reality, Augmented Reality and even Artificial Intelligence into the shopping experience.

>75% of fashion retailers plan to invest in AI in 2018/2019.

Major Trends in Fashion IndustryI Fashion Tech

13% consumers sign up to

brand communications

through VR content

by 2020, 85% of customer

interaction in retail will be

managed by AI

Number of connected

wearable devices is expected

to reach 830 Mln in 2020

European fashion tech start-

ups raised €440 Mln in the

first 5 months of 2016

Source: tech.eu, www.businessoffashion.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEMH5nWwrMQ


6


The UK and Germany, and more

specifically London and Berlin, have

emerged as Europe’s leading fashion

tech hubs that account for the vast

majority of investments.

90% of the €440 million raised so far in

2016 is attributed to two massive rounds

from British/Portuguese startup

Farfetch and Global Fashion Group,

Rocket Internet’s fashion retailer. Even

excluding GFG and Farfetch’s deals,

funding activity in the sector has

increased year-on-year.

Distribution of investment in fashion startups, Europe & Israel

Source: tech.eu

For 2016 the data is indicated till May only


7


Since the emergence of interactive

textile and e-textile, the market using

these products in the fabrics has grown a

lot. These textiles embed conducting

threads into the fabric to give the

garments a functional ability.

During the past few years the revenues

from the interactive and e-textile has

surged with double digit growth.

Through the period of 2012-2018, the

revenue had an average annual growth

of 16.44% per year.

Source: Statista.com

Global smart, intelligent, digital & interactive fabrics/textile

market revenue, Bln US dollars

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQonFuDfTfs


8


Greater acceptance and demand for technology innovation have led to synergies with the field of fashion,

the following being some of the major trends:

CLOUD

COMPUTING

The virtualization and

central management of

data resources as software-

defined pools.

With the expansive use of

big data in fashion, Cloud

computing helps in reducing

costs, better collaboration

across the supply chain and

easy interaction with

consumers.

CONNECTED

PRODUCTS

Connected products are

achieved by giving a

physical item a unique

digital identity in the

cloud, allowing them to tap

into real-time software

capabilities, applications

and analytics by making

the products part of the

ecosystem of the web.

ARTIFICIAL

INTELLIGENCE

AI technologies are

capable of performing

tasks that normally require

human intelligence. With

increasing amount of data

about sales and consumer

preferences, AI provides

leverage to improve the

retail experience for the

digitally-savvy affluent

consumer.

MIXED

REALITY

A hybrid of both Augmented

Reality and Virtual Reality,

Mixed Reality (MR) is far

more advanced, providing

the capability to overlay

augmented holographic

digital content into the

real-time space, creating

scenarios that are

unbelievably realistic.


9


For a fashion brand, it is hard to lead a technological innovation on its own. As the result, the top

companies collaborate with the tech giants like Microsoft, Google, IBM, Cisco. It is important to

mention that both the parties of such collaborations are proudly mentioned, when it comes to the

innovation release.

Asos switched to the

Microsoft's cloud Azure

platform-as-a-service for

the growth of the online

business

Cisco have developed

virtual smart mirrors

‘StyleMe’ for retailer John

Lewis’ flagship store on

Oxford Street

The North Face is using

the IBM Watson-based

Fluid XPS system for the

online shopping

consultancy

Levi’s smart jacket uses

advantage technology from

Google, which involves

weaving multi-touch

sensors into clothing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkyxtq0vcY8


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Major Trends in Fashion IndustryII Fashion & Healthcare

STAYING HEALTHYIS THE NEW BLACKGrowing concerns of ill health and fitness have led to an unprecedented trend in the fashion and lifestyle

industry. Health and wellness have become the ultimate luxury.

A craze to get fit has given rise to many new fashion brands, and innovative products are being flaunted as

accessories to adopt the athleisure trend. The relationship between fashion and health is becoming more

and more vital, with both industries mutually inducing trends in one another.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zipGvqaSJiE


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$3.7 Tn

$51.6 Bln

5.9%

26.4 Bln

Value of Global

Wellness Economy

Increase in sales from 2013-2018

of Organic Beauty products

CAGR from 2016-2020 Globally

of Health and Wellness Marketing

Forecasted Global sales revenue

of Wearable devices in 2018

Source: womensmarketing.com ,businesswire.com, statista.com

People are gravitating towards a

healthier lifestyle. A well-balanced

lifestyle is the biggest trend that

consumers are buying into. It is a macro

trend which can be seen in almost every

industry today.

Health awareness has affected fashion

choices of many consumers, who are

now buying products which have health

benefits embedded in them. This

awareness has penetrated the fashion

industry in diverse ways.


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Wearable tech has seen

tremendous growth and will

continue to remain popular.

Devices are now becoming

sleeker, keeping up with fashion

trends.

Number of Smart clothing

shipments in 2017 were 3.3

million and will have a CAGR of

76.1% in 2021.*

Smartwatch market will climb

from 71.4 million in 2017 to 161

million in 2021; and the wristband

segment will increase from 47.6

million to 52.2 million in the same

period. Source: International Data Corporation

Beauty regimes are on the verge

of an overhaul, as cosmetics will

now be accompanied by beauty

supplements for enhanced long-

term effects.

The market is expected to

expand at a compound annual

growth rate of 8.6% over the

period from 2016 to 2024.

Presently, Asia-Pacific

dominates the segment and will

continue to do so in the next few

years, with Japan being the

biggest market.

Source: insidertradings.org

Number of wearable

devices shipped

Global beauty

supplements

market size


13


Mental Health problem for

fashion industry professionals

Health problems for customers

due to tight jeans, high heels,

restrictive clothing, etc.

Health and safety hazards for

workers in fashion industry

Models’ health in jeopardy due

to unrealistic beauty standards

fashion and health problems


14


spending power of disabled in UKpeople with disabilities globally

fashion for the disabled and ill

1.3 Bln £249 Bln

As fashion becomes more inclusive, designers and brands are now thinking of ways to bring fashionable

products to the disabled. This is a highly niche market, and remains largely untapped. Fashion can be made

accessible to the disabled by designing special clothing to suit their physical disabilities, or simply making the

stores more disability friendly. Brands are also designing clothes for people with specific illnesses, for

example, Type 1 diabetes.Source: returnondisability.com, www.gov.uk


15

Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIII Digital Marketing

In the age of technology advancements, the global retail industry is going through the major changes.

Retailers are investing in IoT technologies — from beacons that beam shoppers customized coupons

to radio frequency identification tags that track inventory. 72% of retailers plan to reinvent their

supply chain with real-time visibility enabled by automation, sensors and analytics.

Source: ZIH Corp. study

Cameras and

video analytics

for operational

purposes

Loss prevention and

inventory visibility

elements enabled by

operational technology

Cognitive computing

to drive optimizations

and insights

Visual analytics for

making sense out of IoT

data. Predictive analytics

Software

analytics for loss

prevention, price

optimization

Big data solutions for

storing and analyzing IoT

generated data

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFyDntHV89U


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Today, marketers seek more efficient ways to collect and

use data in order to improve the customer experience and

build further marketing strategies. Moreover, the possibility

to operate with the real-time data can provide a

competitive advantage to the business.

Only the data driven approach can bring fruitful

results; the data should fuel every aspect of the

marketing initiatives.

It is important to remember that data driven retail marketing

is not about collecting every piece of information, but about

collecting and analyzing right data at the right time and

in the right place.

89% of customers switch

brands after a poor

customer experience

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhxqoG03OYM


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Source: Data Mentors, Forbes Insights

The Biggest Drivers Behind Increasing Data-Driven Marketing

A need to be more customer centric

Maximize efficiency of marketing investments

Gain more knowledge of customers & prospects

The growing availability of audience data

A need to align with digital customer preferences

53%

49%

33%

24%

20%

Data-driven marketing approach can

secure the analysis and on-time

assistance to the new generation of

shoppers who want to be understood

across multiple channels.

At the same time, majority of the

companies do not have a central

repository of clean data. Much of this

data is often residing in departmental

silos.

50% of Leaders collect campaign metrics, compared to 16% of Laggards


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Where Are These Data Efforts Being Focused?

Targeting of

offers,

messages,

and content

Data-driven

strategy or

product

development

Customer

experience

optimization

Audience

analytics /

measurement

Predictive

analytics

69% 52% 49% 44% 44%

The data can help marketers target the concrete product offer for the concrete customer. This

can lead to the optimization of the customer experience and help to build further business strategy.


19

Major Trends in Fashion IndustryIV Brands’ Collaborations

The brands are constantly under the pressure of selling more goods to more customers, and it is quite

hard to do it if the company already has a wide assortment and is present in all key geographical

markets.

There seems to be a common solution: collaborations that are launched between different players

in the industry. Recently, we have witnessed numerous 'creative collaborations' of the companies from

different or even the same market segments, or with third-party companies, artists and celebrities.Brand & Brand

The brands partner for

the release of the new

products during the

fashion weeks

Brand & Retailer

Online and offline

retailers sell exclusive

collections, which were

created in limited

editions

Brand & Artist

Premium brands

attract artists from all

over the world to

design exclusive

prints

Brand & Celebrity

Celebrities become

designers and offer

new products to catch

the attention of the

market


20


Bra

nd

& B

ran

d

As the SS18 collection was

unveiled at the PFW,

Sandra Choi, Creative

Director of Jimmy Choo

has stated that the

collaboration ‘allows to

explore a new avenue and

take part in a different

conversation’.

In November 2017 a new

suitcase by Rimowa was

released, in collaboration

with Fendi. The suitcase is

available in limited number

at selected locations

worldwide. In 2016,

Rimowa collaborated with

Moncler.

Manolo Blahnik and Bulgari

co-designed an exclusive

pair of shoes with ultra-

precious ankle straps

counting more than 1,141ct

of diamonds, 4,861ct of

rubellites, and 3,819ct of

amethysts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqKJmlVy8Ms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTp7lCjZkUM


21


Bra

nd

& R

eta

ile

r

For the first time, Fendi

partnered with an online

retailer, MyTheresa.com.

The brand created a limited

edition line of millennial

pink wares, such as leather

bags and accessories,

apparel and shoes.

At the end of 2017, Giorgio

Armani launched an excusive

capsule collection of the

cocktail outfits on Net-A-

Porter.

The chic and elegant

collection includes apparel,

shoes and accessories.

Chanel x Pharrell x adidas, a

three-way collaboration was

launched to celebrate the

closing of the Colette store.

Only 500 customers, who had

registered in advance, were

able to purchase the 1000€

pair of shoes at Colette.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxjBeh23Eac


22


Bra

nd

& A

rtis

t

In December 2017, Dior released

its second edition of the ’Dior

Lady Art’. The brand asked 10

international artists all over the

world to reinterpret the iconic

handbag. The first edition of the

project was held in 2016.

Gucci teamed up with the

British artist, Helen Downie,

known as Unskilled Worker, for a

capsule collection of ready-to-

wear, shoes, bags, and

accessories. Helen also created

the visual materials for the PR

activities.

Sometimes the same artist can be a

point of reference for several brands.

Proenza Schouler cited Carmen

Herrera’s work in the Resort 2016

collection, while AKRIS collaborated

with the artist for the SS 2017

fashion show.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gn7sxkX2pCA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKR6sEYJEZY


23


Bra

nd

& C

ele

bri

ty

In December 2017, the

second collaboration between

Burberry and Kris Wu was

announced; the collection

created includes 19 pieces.

The singer also wrote a new

song about his experience

with the brand.

Rihanna and Chopard came up

with a capsule collection

inspired by Rihanna’s

hometown Barbados. The

collaboration resulted in two

collections: joaillerie collection

and haute joaillerie collection.

Gigi Hadid and Stuart

Weitzman have collaborated

again for the exclusive shoe

collection. All the money from

the sales would finance the

Pencils of Promise

organization that builds

schools and trains teachers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dgR5SjJW5k


24

Major Trends in Fashion IndustryV Socially Responsible Business

Social responsibility in business or corporate social responsibility (CSR) pertains to people and

organizations behaving and conducting business ethically and with sensitivity towards social, cultural,

economic, and environmental issues. Striving for social responsibility helps individuals, organizations, and

governments have a positive impact on development, business, and society.

Corporate Social Responsibility Trends To Look For In 2018

Source: Forbes.com

The beginning of the end of workplace harassment and inequality

Expanding the diverse conversation

Focused and forward-thinking brand activism

A shift from disaster recovery to climate resilience

More CSR in the C-Suite

Higher standards for suppliers

Prioritizing privacy and data protection

The blockchain will revolutionize CSR


25


Towards the global environment

Towards the society

& business partners

Towards employees

& customers

• In 2016, Timberland planted 500,000 trees around the globe, working toward a goalof 10 million trees planted by 2020. The company has planted 9.2 million treessince 2001.

•Every time The Body Shop develops a new formula for launch, the company calculates its biodegradability and water footprint.

•The fashion companies are starting the social movements to increase anawareness of certain problems, e.g. #TiedTogether by Valentino.

•LVMH has introduced tests to prevent discrimination during recruitment,continuously monitoring whether commitments to job applicants are respected.

•Timberland launched Worker Well-being, a program to improve the lives of apparelworkers outside the factory walls.

•The fashion brands are launching the special products and indirectly attract the customers to the charity actions, e.g. For every piece sold from the Bulgari’s Save the Children jewellery collection, a part of the proceeds is donated.


26


Source: kpmg.com

Governments, regulators and stock exchanges continue to play a key role in driving up CR reporting

rates around the world. Countries which have experienced the greatest increases in reporting since

2015 - Mexico (+32 percentage points), New Zealand (+17 percentage points) and Taiwan (+11

percentage points).

National rates of CR reporting, 2015 and 2017. Countries with CR reporting rate higher than 90%


27


Millennials represent the consumer market of the future and drive brands to practice Socially

Responsible marketing. What do they ask for?

Source: Forbes.com

They want companies to be actively invested in the betterment of society and the solution of social

problems.

They want companies that prioritize “making an impact” on the world around them.

They want companies to be open and honest about their efforts — and to be public about their pro-

social initiatives.

Millennials want companies to involve their customers in their good work. They want an

opportunity to give back — whether it is with a gift of their time or their money.


28

Fashion Tech


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Fashion TechFashion Industry in Numbers

1 in every 6 people work in fashion

There are around 40 Mln garment

factory workers in the worldChina is the world's largest apparel

exporter, followed by Bangladesh

On an average, workers in Bangladesh earn 2 USD per day

Today we purchase 80 Bln pieces of new clothing each year

400% more than two decades ago


30

Fashion Tech

Source: Factmr.com, Prnewswire.com

The Worldwide

Smart Fashion

Market is expected

to reach $2939 Mln

by 2022, growing

at a CAGR of

117% during the

forecast period

2016-2022. The

USA is the biggest

driver of the smart

fashion.

The smart clothes market

is segmented into T-shirts,

underwear, socks, jackets,

shoes, and others. T-shirts

and pants will hold the

majority of the share,

expected to reach $1074

Mln by 2022.

The smart accessories

market is segmented into

jewelry, bags, wallets, and

others. The jewelry accounts

for the majority of the

market, expected to

reach $89 Mln by 2022,

growing at a CAGR of 118%

Smart Fashion Market


31

Fashion TechFashion Retail

Source: Bain Company

Today, 70% of

luxury purchases

are influenced by

online channels, it

means that at least

one digital

interaction has

taken place with

the brand or the

product before the

purchases.

2017

2025

Fashion Retail

Offline 92% Online 8%

Offline 75% Online 25%

By 2025, online and monobrand stores will become the two

largest channels for luxury sales


32

Fashion TechNew Reality For Fashion Industry

The new inventions disrupted the traditional fashion industry, making way for the fusion of

technology into fashion.

The new platforms have also led to the mix-match of customer retail experiences leveraging on

the technology of Artificial Intelligence (AI), Virtual Reality (VR), and

Augmented Reality (AR).


33

Fashion TechTraditional Fashion Process

Raw MaterialsMix of natural and synthetic fibers

IdeationBased on the creativity of the designer

ManufacturingUse of manpower and machines

ProductSimple, single purpose products

DeliveryCourier services

RetailE-commerce and physical stores

The traditional fashion process involves

the human touch through every step. Only

in textile and clothing industry

employed more than 58 Mln people, an

increase by 32 Mln employees from 2000’.

The initialization of the process is through

the designer’s creativity or available raw

materials. There is no direct

involvement of the consumer or

backward information flow through the

processes to better evaluate the

decisions. Source: ilo.org


34

Fashion TechNew Age Fashion Process

Raw MaterialsComplex and scientifically created

IdeationRational creativity based on Big Data

ManufacturingGrowing automation, reduction of human labor

ProductConnected and tech infused

Delivery Advanced, instant,

with automated solutions

Phygital Retail connecting physical and

digital retail experiences

The new age fashion process is swiftly

moving towards automation and reduction

of human touch. 51% of the tasks will

be automated in 2055 with

manufacturing and retailing being the

most affected. Big Data leads to a more

connected flow of information happens

across the processes and

companies. New products are initiated

after analysis of market demands. The

consumer is the main focus of every

process. This leads to a better informed

and calculated decision making process.


35

Innovation in Fabrics


36

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Then and To Be

Traditionally the process of acquiring

fabrics included a gradual process. With

naturally acquired fibers like wool and

leather, such elaboration of the natural

fibers is very time-consuming.

The fabrics had restrictive capacities and

dictated the creativity process of the

designer. The designer was bound to make

decisions while incorporating the

availability and limitation of the raw

material.

THEN TO BE

The modern fabric creation process is an

innovative hybrid between the existing

methods and technological systems.

The process is more complex but with

immense possibilities and capabilities.

The designer now has the creative

freedom to expand the horizons of

traditional designing due to the availability

of fabrics that are “smarter” and can

perform multiple functions.


37

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: E-Textile

One of the newest additions of textiles is

electronic textiles E-textiles. The E-textiles are

based on the integration of inherently

electrically or electronically active fibers into

textiles, being either cotton, polyester, nylon or

even advanced fabrics as Kevlar.

The E-textiles rely on combining the fabrics with

the electronically active fibers, therein allowing for

the use of connectivity and conduction, making it

possible to have stretchable electronics, for

energy harvesting, energy storage or even

memory.

Active FibresConducting Clothing

Textile Fusions


38

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Magnetic Fabrics

A different type of smart fabric, still under

development by the University of Washington, is

magnetic fabric. The fabric is created such that

it can store data as security codes to

identification tags, without the need of attached

electronic devices or sensors.

The approach leverages magnetic properties

from “traditional” off-the-shelf conductive thread

in textiles. The stored data is kept in the fabric,

where the data can be read using an instrument

embedded in existing smartphones to enable

navigation apps.Magnetic Thread

Wearable Tech Information Storage


39

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Google Jacquard

Jacquard by Google fabric can be woven into

the fabric of one's clothes, and herein

connect to the digital life of the user instantly

and effortlessly through an app.

The fabric offers a New Field Communication

(NFC). Currently the Jacquard fabric by Google is

focused on the convenience of the urban life, as

for now it is able to communicate and can handle

calls and texts, navigate through areas and

control the wearers music.

Smart Fabric

Touch Sensitive

Conducting fibers


40

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Touch Sensitive

A different take on the E-textiles comes from the

company Loomia, a 3-year-old Brooklyn-based

startup, which makes a fabric layer that has

electrical components built as thin and flexible as

nylon. Loomia's fabrics are touch-sensitive

and can heat up and emit light.

Loomia created an ultra-thin, almost weightless

textile layer with built-in electronic circuits. The

layer connects to a slim battery, called the

Loomia Tile, which powers the garment.

Loomia's fabrics have sensors which collect data

about temperature, motion, or frequency of wear,

and then store it in the Loomia Tile.In-fiber sensors

Power connected

Electronic layer


41

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Wearable Sensors

E-textiles also allows a more fashionable use.

‘Twenty Four 15’ is the fashion brand for the

digital generation because of technology is in its

DNA. Currently the brand offers a line of app-

connected, fiber optic, color-changing

apparel.

The products are connected via Bluetooth to an

app that controls the LED lights otherwise

embedded in them. There is a color wheel to shift

the shade of the lights and a music feature that

lets the user synchronize them so they also

animate to the beat.

Color changingApp connected


42

Fashion TechInnovation in Fabrics: Pros & Cons

PROS CONS

Re-thinking of the clothing design.

Stretches the scope of innovation for

fashion.

Transformation and opening up the

scope of fabric utility.

Enhance convenience for the final

users.

Induces sustainability and reduction in

wastage due to multipurpose and

resistant fabrics.

Design could be restricted due to

components of the fabric.

Potential dangers of making the

garment risky for the final user.

Limitations due to possible wear and

tear uncertainties.

Unknowns with health and safety on

long-term use of e-textiles.

Recycle uncertainties of garments and

waste materials.


43

Innovation in Design


44

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Then and To Be

Design initially was purely based on the

person’s creative vision or ready trends

formed in the market. This meant that the

consumer most often were disregarded

from the ideation.

As the design process failed to take into

consideration the consumer point of view, it

showed a one way interaction, with the

designer ruling the process and trying to

create a need, rather than addressing one.

THEN TO BE

With the availability of Big Data, the

fashion brands can design new products

while keeping the consumer on the

forefront and turn the process into a two-

way communication, where the brand

interacts with the final consumer.

Based on the data about physical

parameters of a customer and his/her taste

the brand can create customized products

with industrial speed.


45

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Google Tilt Brush

With the swipe of a digital brush users can paint

life-sized, three dimensional strokes, important to

wear a connected HTC Vive or Oculus Rift

headset.

The Google Tilt Brush has the potential to drive

change in the fashion industry, because

illustrators can paint with textured fabrics

such as denim, silk and cotton, as well as

leather. This can help designers to view their

work in progress from every angle and share it

with Tilt brush users around the globe to get a full

understanding of the creation and response of

the audience.

3D sketching

Real time ideationDynamic Painting


46

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Ivyrevel & Google

Google teamed up with H&M’s digital fashion

house Ivyrevel on a project dubbed “Coded

Couture”.

The Awareness API by Google daily monitors

the user’s activity with a goal to create a

custom-made Data Dress, which is possible to

buy through the Ivyrevel app. All the data is

analyzed to take the conditions, wearer and

occasions into consideration. For example, the

material will be selected based on weather data

like the temperature and the fit will be based on

the wearer’s activity level. Behaviour tracking

PersonalizationData driven design


47

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: NikeLab

NikeLab has developed the Nike Advanced

Apparel Exploration 1.0 collection. Having the

outline of trajectory tracking of the body’s

function and motion, the Nike is offering

base-layer and mid-layer garments where the

focus is on the user and the environmental

impact from the scenarios when the garments are

used.

By analyzing digital body maps, with lifestyle

parameter as a cling map, airflow map, sweat

map and heat map gathered with Big Data

analytics, Nike is able to make a shirt taking a lot

of variables from different environments into

account.

Computation approach

Big DataBody tracking


48

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Amazon Algorithmic Design

Amazon is working on the algorithm that is able

to design clothing by analyzing images and by

finding common denominators in the fashion

trends. This could mean spotting a particular

trend on Instagram or on its own collection of

fashion imagery.

This means that potentially algorithmic designer

can pick up subconscious trends that have not

been elaborated upon yet, and quickly design a

new product. Moreover, Amazon has patented

an automated on-demand clothing factory,

where the first phase is sale, not production for

the future sales. Amazon’s on-demand clothing factory


49

Fashion TechInnovation in Design: Pros & Cons

PROS CONS

Better understanding of consumer preferences

and latent needs.

Greater involvement of customers into designing

and production.

Market oriented approach.

Faster and more responsive to changing

conditions.

Flexibility in scaling of the operations.

Reduces design and prototyping lead times and

waste, more sustainable approach of business.

Loss of human creativity.

Predominance of data analysis over

creativity.

Risk to have very similar products on

the market, due to the analysis of

common data/trends.

Heavy dependence on data:

quantitative and qualitative.

Risk to miscalculate the customer

parameters due to the system errors.


50

Innovation in Production


51

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Then and To Be

An era of limitations and complete

reliability on human capabilities and skill

sets, the manufacturing process is tedious

and time-consuming.

At the same time, the market conditions

push the companies to shorten the lead

time from the design and production

phases to the product availability in

customers' hands.

THEN TO BE

Replacing human reliability with major

automation, the manufacturing process

seems to be more efficient. The lead

times between the design and

manufacturing have reduced to a

fraction, making the notion of ‘see now

buy now’ more achievable. The new age

techniques reduce wastage and overall

costs, also providing greater capacity of

mass production.


52

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: SewBo

The Seattle based company, SewBo developed

an industrial robot to sew together a T-shirt.

The robot uses stiffened fabrics by drenching

them in liquid polymers, as this turns it into

temporary thermoplastic composites, and then

can be treated like hard materials so the robots

can handle the garments. In order to put the t-

shirt back into its soft state, the finished garments

in then drenched in hot water, which dissolves the

layer of liquid polymer, making the finished

product usable.Liquid polymer

T-shirt production

Robotic Sewing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjjzo3c7b_8


53

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: SoftWare Automation

SoftWare Automation registered a Sewbots as a

trademark for the fully automated manufacturing.

Sewbots work with the fabrics on a flat horizontal

surface using cameras to map the fabric and

robots to steer it through the sewing needles.

The Sewbot can produce a T-shirt just in 22

seconds, adidas is planning to produce 800 000

T-shirts per day via SoftWear Automation at

Tianyuan Garments Company, of Suzhou, China.

Fabric mapping via camerasT-shirt production

Robotic sewing machines

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbkOTg0lqhY


54

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Kniterate

The startup Kniterate offers an affordable and

compact digital knitting machine for smaller

productions and less technical expertise.

Kniterate turns digital designs into knitted

garments automatically. This simplifies the

process of designing and allows to go from an

idea for a product within a few minutes.

Small scale business

Customized production

Digital knitting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_5PEAyMoKU


55

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Marc Cain 3D Knitting

German based company, Marc Cain for the SS17

show presented innovative pullovers which were

knit in one step and with the special inkjet print.

The machine is able to create pullovers,

knitted jackets and skirts completely without

seams by the means of a special 3D knitting

process. The entire process avoids having to

send the merchandise to sewing factories, thus

saving the time for production and reduce impact

on the environment.

Seamless production

3D Knitting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjjzo3c7b_8


56

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: New Balance 3D Printing

New Balance created the midsoles for running

shoes by using laser sintering powder

created from an Elastomer composite. The

company is using selective laser sintering (SLS),

a process which converts the powder material

into solid cross-sections, layer by layer, using a

laser.

The whole process goes from mixing the

thermoplastic powders with additives to optimize

performance of the end product, while the design

is on files and prepared for the midsoles through

3D renderings.

Flexible & durable

Thermoplastic powder

3D Printing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi-qkY_-7NQ


57

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: adidas Speedfactory

In October 2017 adidas announced the first major

project to be created at its SPEEDFACTORY

facility in Ansbach, Germany.

adidas Made For London (AM4LDN) shoe is first

in a series of individually designed and

manufactured shoes adidas will release in six

key cities around the world. SPEEDFACTORY

will allow for consumers to benefit from state-of-

the-art manufacturing processes that allow

adidas to create truly tailored product solutions

with unprecedented speed, thanks to in market

automated production.

Purpose-built productsIndividual design

Data-driven design

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyum6GZp3r4


58

Fashion TechInnovation in Production: Pros & Cons

PROS CONS

Shorter production cycles, cost effective

processes, reduction in wastage.

Possibility of producing on demand,

reducing the risks of market

uncertainties.

Customization as per the consumer

needs and market trends.

Makes way for smaller designers to

compete in the industry.

Increased production capacity at lower

costs.

High investments.

Loss of employment opportunities.

Limitations in the scope of transforming

actual designs into final product.

Possible Environmental hazards.

Easy duplication and counterfeiting of

products.

Increased competition from new entrant,

with easier production.

Higher cost of errors through production.


59

Smart Products


60

Fashion TechProducts: Then and To Be

Traditionally, fashion accessories and

garments were restricted to a single

dimension of functionality. They were

simple, made of natural or synthetic fibers

that were cultivated over time.

The products served the purposes of

functionality (cover up, provide warmth,

etc.) with the touch of self-expression and

beauty.

THEN TO BE

The new development in fiber construction

has given rise to more complex raw

materials. These materials, when used in

garments, enhance the functionality of

the products making it “smarter” and

multidimensional.

The functionality of the product now is not

restricted to the basics anymore. The

clothing and accessories are now more

inter-linked to the wide base of technology.


61

Fashion TechSmart Products: Safilo & InteraXon Brain Sensing Eyewear

Safilo in collaboration with brain sensing

company, InteraXon developed a pair of

sunglasses for personalized data tracking. The

product was launched under the Smith brand and

named Smith Lowdown Focus mpowered by

Muse.

The integrated brain-sensing EEG technology in

the Lowdown Focus eyewear provides visual

feedback on your brain’s activity level so you can

learn how to control your focus. The products is

synchronized with Smith Focus App featuring 3

programs to specifically target cognitive

performance. Conductive materials

Focus measurement

Cognitive-training eyewear

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0pDhme6mHc


62

Fashion TechSmart Products: Hussein Chalayan & Intel

Hussein Chalayan and Intel presented the

sunglasses that pick up biosensing data such

as fear and stress. In the product was installed

the Intel Curie module which is a button sized

tech that can be incorporated in multiple

products. The glasses also used Bluetooth

technology to measure EEG signals in the

brain, and a sensor for the heart and pulse

rates.

These sunglasses were used on the runway to

track models emotions at different points of the

shows which were transformed into the abstract

images on a projector via special belt powered by

an Intel Compute Stick.

Responsive fashionEmotion tracking

Biosensing data

https://iq.intel.com/hussein-chalayan-brings-biosensing-wearables-to-paris-fashion-week/


63

Fashion TechSmart Products: Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon

Louis Vuitton Tambur Horizon smartwatch rely on

Google Android Wear 2.0 and Qualcomm

Technologies, while the case is made at Louis

Vuitton. Via the smartwatch it is possible to check

incoming calls, mails, receive information on flight

times, and even to have a city guide that covers

seven of the world’s major cities to detect a

wearer’s location and makes recommendations

on nearby restaurants, hotels and landmarks.

In selected countries and stores, the Tambour

Horizon watch now features contactless

payments, Android Pay and Alipay services.Contactless payments

The city guides application

Personalized smart watches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AjdAObqC74


64

Fashion TechSmart Products: Tag Heuer Connected Modular

The TAG Heuer Connected Modular by

Android Wear and engineered in collaboration

with Intel. Tag Heuer provides more than 60

models, every client can decide the size, color,

material, horns, etc. as per his/her personal taste.

Tag Heuer Connected watch gives the possibility

to manage the notifications, access your favorite

apps, translator, weather, maps and also covers

other basic features like timer, alarm, and

stopwatch. The watch can be paired with a

smartphone. Google & Intel technologyModular design

Tailored smart watches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKyKXrznXfI


65

Fashion TechSmart Products: Kate Spade Charging Bag

In collaboration with Everpurse, Kate Spade

launched a special collection of bags that can

charge the iPhone, wire-free and on the go.

In the lining of the bag there is a charging pocket,

where the phone will connect and can be

charged. And in order to charge the battery pack

in the bag itself it is necessary to use the

charging mat, simply by placing the bag on top of

the mat and therein it connects remotely.

Wireless connection

Technology embedding

Charging bag

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuwsdnpalYM


66

Fashion TechSmart Products: Digitsole Smartshoe

Being described as the world’s first intelligent

footwear, the Smartshoe is able to loosen and

tighten itself via the app as well as count

calories and distance travelled.

The shoe tracks and stores the distance; the

calories, step size, posture and impact force of

the wearer, but also control the integrated heating

of the shoe, which comes from the special

developed heating sole. The entire control of the

shoe is happening via the app, as well as walking

pattern analysis and real-time analytics.

Auto-tighteningShock absorbing

Intelligent sneaker

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/141658446/digitsole-smartshoe-the-worlds-first-intelligent-s


67

Fashion TechSmart Products: IOFIT by Samsung Electronics

The Samsung Electronics spinoff startup

developed and presented a smart shoe, IOFIT.

The IOFIT shoe is able to support the wearer

with in-depth analysis and tracking of the

pressure by certain exercises either within

sports and weightlifting or even in golf

swings. The data and control is connected to an

app, where it’s possible to see, retrieve and

analyze the information.

A combination of pressure sensors and the

coaching app also help to improve a user’s

balance and body posture to enhance one’s

fitness routine. Coaching app

Pressure sensors

Posture measuring

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcgQoPTCXf0


68

Fashion TechSmart Products: Levi's & Google Trucker Jacket

Levi's® and Google created the newest in

wearable technology - the Levi's Commuter™ x

Jacquard by Google Trucker Jacket.

A smart sleeve allows the wearer to control

their smartphone by swiping the left cuff of

the jacket sleeve.

With the Levi’s Commuter jacket it is possible to

hear who incoming texts are from, have these

text read to you and send calls to voicemail to

listen to later. It is also possible to navigate the

city by getting turn reminders and play the music

without slowing down to grab the phone.Music control

Jacquard by GoogleTouch sensitive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJ-lcdMfziw


69

Fashion TechSmart Products: Emel and Aris Heating Coat

The smart coat collection Emel and Aris means

high-quality formal and informal coats that, with

the touch of a button, provide extra heat. The

heating technology is made from a specially

formulated lightweight polymer that is inert. It

produces far infrared (FIR) heat energy that is

absorbed by the skin to heat the muscles and

increase blood flow. Safe and self-regulating it

conducts heat uniformly which means it cannot

overheat or produce hotspots and therefore

cannot burn.

There is a short cable that connects the battery to

the coat, that’s all the wiring there is.

Battery connected

Temperature control

Heat Technology

https://emelandaris.com/heating/


70

Fashion TechSmart Products: Pros & Cons

PROS CONS

Aimed to solve problems associated

with the daily lives.

Multiple functions to one garment.

An opportunity to get more personalized

solutions with use of sensors and

trackers.

Remain connected to your preferred

devices in a more convenient way.

Enhancing human abilities through data

and performance.

Possible harm because of the unknowns

in long-term use.

Short life-span of the technology

embedded in the garments, e.g.

functionality can decrease after washes.

The rising concern of data security.

Environmental impact with disposal of

the clothing at the end of its Life Cycle.

A move towards complete technological

dependency.


71

Innovation in Delivery


72

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Then and To Be

With a major reliability on human labour,

the delivery process is time consuming and

an not always efficient. Accessibility to

certain geographies was even more

tedious. Logistics was one of the major

processes handled by outside agencies.

Which meant no control of the brand on

the activities. The consumer was hesitant

to trust brands due to the gap in order

placement and order fulfilment which was

also the cause of the slow growth of the e-

commerce expansion efforts.

THEN TO BE

The retailers are now able to serve

consumers in a matter of minutes without

almost any geographical restrictions. Most

logistics companies are working towards

solutions like drone delivery, robots and

self-driving cars to make the process

more efficient and serve the consumers

need for instant gratification.

Many companies are also investing in

technology that can help them take

complete control over the logistic process.


73

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Drone Delivery

JD.com is the largest online retailer in China.

Serving over 235 million customers the company

has a vast network of warehouses and delivery

stations, and deliver most orders in less than a

day. The one-of-a-kind drone network helps to

deliver the orders to hard to reach areas.

The JD drones can carry up to 33 pounds of

weight and travel up to 12 miles at speeds up to

34 mph and handle moderate rains and wind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2b2aX-t3c_g


74

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Autonomous Delivery Robots

JD.com also introduced a robot delivery service,

currently being tested at universities around

China. JDRover, a Jetson robots powered by

NVIDIA can easily navigate through crowded

streets to deliver packages to customers that

have purchased items through JD.com’s online

mall.

The launch of the robot delivery service combines

small, self-driving robot vehicles with smart locks

and secure storage. The customer can retrieve

the package, by opening the robot via QR

code.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LOYvHnh5GY


75

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: JD.com Autonomous Delivery Vehicles

JD.com also partnered with automotive

manufacturer SAIC Maxus Automotive Co., Ltd.,

and Dongfeng Motor Corp. to conduct research

into the use of autonomous vans in deliveries.

Fitted with radar, sensor and positioning system,

vans are being tested to go from the distribution

center of JD.com and deliver to urban delivery

stations and bulk deliveries to offices and

residential areas in cities. The vans have

conducted successful tests of the

autonomous route planning, overtaking,

obstacle avoidance and self-parking

functions.


76

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Hermes Logistics, Autonomous Delivery Robots

Hermes, a provider of the international logistics

services to the retail industry, in collaboration with

Starship Technologies released the autonomous

delivery robots for parcels collections and

deliveries.

The robots are small, six-wheeled vehicles

trundling along at 4mph and pose significantly

less threat than a drone. Also the delivery robots

have a sophisticated obstacle detection

system, which allows them to build a picture

of the area around them and create a “bubble

of awareness”. Sophisticated sensors help them

avoid people and to cross roads when it’s safe to

do so.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5sIWbyG_kc


77

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Amazon Prime Air service

Amazon Prime Air is a service that will deliver

packages up to five pounds in 30 minutes or less

using small drones. The vehicles are built with

multiple redundancies, as well as sophisticated

“sense and avoid” technology.

The company has filed for a patent for “multi-

level fulfillment centers” that would

accommodate the landing and takeoff of

drones in dense urban settings.

In 2017 Amazon also has filed a patent for a

self-driving airship that can store inventory and

be used as a base to launch delivery drones.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNySOrI2Ny8


78

Fashion TechInnovation in Delivery: Pros & Cons

PROS CONS

Less dependence on humans, eliminating

errors and increasing efficiency.

More flexible delivery to suit the customer

requirements.

Elimination of geographical limitations.

Faster delivery times with reduction in the

gap between order placement and receipt.

Ability to offer cheaper delivery options.

High development requirements and

costs.

Hazards of autonomous vehicles on the

streets, as they may be a danger to

people.

Full dependency on technology in case of

errors.

Still at a relative early state in deployment.

Governments are still being cautious

granting permissions for drones.


79

Future of the Fashion Industry


80


The United States sees

immediate savings of 180,000

from sewbots over 5 yearsOne company replaced 3 workers with the

pair of sewbots

Textile and Clothing workers at risk

of joblessness because of

automation

64% in Indonesia

86% in Vietnam

88% in Cambodia

Source: International Labour Organization

The technology can increase labour

productivity, product quality and

reduce waste

One Chinese manufacturer invested US$500,000 in

a digital printer which prints 30 metre lengths of

cloth in 1 minute. The printer reduced the

workload of 8 people down to 3 and allows sales of

US161 Mln to be achieved with maximum 300 workers

Modern technology will increase the demand for skilled workers

knowledgeable in operating new machines and computer software


81


Stitchless or non-sewing technology

which involves a special type of glue

reduce the production time by 25%-35%

“3D printing and robotic technology will

help up set the scene for large-scale

commercial production so each consumer

can locally get what they want faster than

ever.” Gerd Manz, Vice President of

Technology Innovation, adidas.

“Custom-made clothing

is going to be a big thing.

Consumers will be able

to scan their own body at

home and send a scan to

their favorite brand and

make custom clothing

from it.” Roger Lee, CEO,

TAL Apparel Group

Brook Brothers launched the service of Digital Tailoring which takes 3D image of

the body in just 12 seconds yielding hundreds of measurements that are

electronically transmitted to the factory where a personalized pattern is made

specifically for a single customer.


82

...

• TBC

June 2018

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