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A project of the Textile Design Course at the Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Fashion on Furniture
The Project
Fashion on Furniture explores the intersection of materiality, trends in fashion and contemporary cul- ture. It manifests itself in the dialogue between the experimental upholstery and the different characters of the chairs. The coverings were developed in a studential project and are presented on “Divina KID”, designed by Jacco Bregonje, Felicerossi, Italia, and on an open metal framework of a child’s chair.
The Textile Design Course at the Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design facilitates the fundamental mastery in the making specialisms of woven, printed, knitted and mixed media textiles. Exploratory projects engage students to look beyond existing bound- aries to anticipate future needs, trends and societal challenges.
This project was initiated and developed with the helpof the following Professors – Jörg Hartmann, Karl Höing –, academic staff – Anja Müller, Dorothee Silbermann, Michaela Wirsig – and associate lec- turers: Jacco Bregonje (Felicerossi, Italia) Francesco Collura, Sandra Disselhoff, Horst Mayer. The tech- nical workshop STRICKWERK and this exhibition have been made possible with the generous support of the H. STOLL AG & Co. KG, D-Reutlingen.
www.abk-stuttgart.de/studium/studienangebote/textildesign
www.textildesign.abk-stuttgart.de
Index
Marina Doroschkov
Sofia Furmanov
Leandra Heisen
Lauren Luckert da Costa Tavares
Janna Luisa Monn
Laura Nell
Myriam Ruff
Mara Salehi-Gilani
Selma Waibel
Lena Waizmann
Franziska Theresia Walz
The Academy
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Marina Doroschkov
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Marina Doroschkov
ownchair.com simulates an online shop where customers use a configurator to create their own per- sonalized chair. They can choose from two chair models and various knitted upholstery fabrics. The chairs draw their inspiration from major European cities such as Paris, London, and Milan and their char- acteristic architecture, fashion design, and life- style. Every chair is different and is upholstered by hand, emphasizing its distinctive form – haute couture for chairs.
ownchair.com
A Satine Lurex, natural and synthetic yarn knitting
B London Calling Cotton, elastic yarn knitting, padding
C La Dolce Vita Lurex, natural and synthetic yarn knitting
Since 2013 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
2017 Internship Daimler AG, D-Stuttgart
[email protected] www.doroschkov.de
Marina Doroschkov
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Sofia Furmanov
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Sofia Furmanov
Behind takes a theoretical approach to our digitized and networked world. The research shows how this world is physically interconnected and reveals the tan-gible structures behind the functioning Internet sys-tem. These structures, including data centers, power lines, cables, and circuit boards, provide a variety of materials, colors, structures, and patterns that serve as criteria for textile creation. These various ele-ments were the basis for developing knitted fabrics that combine clear, metallic colors, the proper- ties of synthetic yarn, and a “technical” surface feel.
Behind
Since 2014 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Sofia Furmanov
A Chair 1 Thermoplastic polyurethane knitting, thermosetting
B Chair 2 Cotton, polyester knitting
C Chair 3 Cotton, polyester, metal knitting
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Leandra Heisen
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Leandra Heisen
The Vertigreen project presents the different compo- nents of a contemporary urban phenomenon – verti- cal gardens. These gardens bring together nature and architecture to create a new unity, as seen in the construction project “Bosco Vertikale” of Studio Boeri, Milan. Various aspects of architecture and nature, as well as combinations of the two were translated in- to upholstery fabrics that feature various woven structures and knotting techniques, as well as vibrant knitted elements. The project is intended to encour- age dialogue about climate change and future-oriented thinking based on the idea that “architecture + nature = future.”
Vertigreen
A Vertigreen_1 Natural and synthetic yarn piqué weave
B Vertigreen_2 Natural and synthetic yarn various weaving and knotting techniques
C Vertigreen_3 Natural and synthetic yarn knitting
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Design:Since 2012 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
2016 Internship apartment91, D-Stuttgart
2015 Erasmus exchange in Tallinn, Estonia
[email protected] www.leandraheisen.com
Leandra Heisen
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Lauren Luckert da Costa Tavares
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The science of biomimicry provides a basis for design- ing knitted upholstery fabrics. Biomimicry creates design solutions by observing and imitating natural forms. In this case, the designs result from the sur- face structures of seeds and pollen, whose capsules protect and cushion their contents. The function and appearance of the capsules were transferred to the textiles using recycled neoprene and knitted patterns. The neoprene is utilized in the seat and back, creating an organic interplay with the pattern and the chair.
Biomimicry – Seeds & Pollen
Lauren Luckert da Costa Tavares
A Softshell 1 Elastane, polychloroprene, polyester knitted fabric with milled neoprene
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Since 2014 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Since 2017 Internship State Theater of Stuttgart
Lauren Luckert da Costa Tavares
B Softshell 2 Polychloroprene, polyester application of neoprene, surrounded by knitted fabric
C Softshell 3 Elastane, polychloroprene, polyester knitted double layer fabric with incorporated neoprene
D Softshell 4 Polychloroprene, polyester knitted fabric, bonded with neoprene, both quilted
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Janna Luisa Monn
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The skin of the chameleon (from the Latin “chamaeleonidae” meaning “lion of the ground”) is the fascinating starting point for the concept of Haut Couture – Fashion on Furniture. The project’s name is a play on words, uniting “haute couture” with “Haut,” the German word for “skin”. Chameleons are well known for their vivid coloring and their ability to blend in with their surroundings. Another dis- tinctive feature of the animal is that it sheds and renews its skin. The appearance and characteristics of the chameleon’s skin before, during, and after this process of regeneration are the inspiration for the textile design of the chairs Stuol, Epidermis, and Corium.
Janna Luisa Monn
Haut Couture
Since 2011 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
2015 Internship Zimmer + Rohde, D-Frankfurt
2016 Internship people design, D-Berlin
Janna Luisa Monn
A Stuol Cotton, polyacrylic, polyester, polyurethane foam, wool weave, paillette embroidery, pigment print, padding
B Epidermis Cotton, polyacrylic, polyester, polyurethane foam, viscose, wool weave with pile, padding
C Corium Cotton, polyacrylic, polypropylene, wool inlaid weave
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LauraNell
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The traditional social activity of cooking and eating together seems to be declining in our society, where people increasingly live alone. The Sharechair project critically addresses this trend. The chair Divina was designed for human interaction. Its distinctive armrest can also be used as a small tabletop, making it easy to create a line of different variations on the same chair and enabling people to eat and socialize in small or large groups. The sensuous realm of flav- ors inspired the choices of color and surface feel. The four flavors “salty”, “bitter”, “sour”, and “sweet” are translated into their unique associated colors and re- created in exciting fabrics.
LauraNell
Sharechair
A Bitter Cotton, linen, wool, polyurethane foam weave, padding
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Since 2013 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
2017 Internship REUBER HENNING, D-Berlin
[email protected] lauranelltextiledesign.com
Max Borchert
B Salty Cotton, linen, wool, polyurethane foam weave, padding
C Sour Cotton, elastane, linen, wool flexible weave, padding
D Sweet Cotton, linen, polyester, wool, polyurethane foam lancé and brocade weave, padding
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Myriam Ruff
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Myriam Ruff
For the Fashion on Furniture project, fabrics for up- holstery were developed under the title Comfortzone. The story of living in and leaving the protective area is told in three evolutionary stages: starting with wrap- ping up in the comfort zone (enfolded in comfort), tran- sitioning to waking up and realizing (recognition), through to breaking out of the comfort zone (stretching out of your comfort zone). These different stages have been translated into furnishing fabrics and pres-ented on chairs.
Comfortzone
A enfolded in comfort Cotton, wool, polyester wadding knitting
B recognition Natural and synthetic yarn, Lurex, polyester wadding knitting
C stretching out of your comfort zone Cotton knitting, foam print
Since 2013 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Myriam Ruff
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Mara Salehi-Gilani
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Mara Salehi-Gilani
Combining knitting and macramé is an exciting and interesting challenge. Using the macramé tech- nique to finish and fasten chairs creates an interlaced look in which the two materials complement each other esthetically. Producing knitted furnishing fab-rics and applying the macramé technique to cover the structure of the chair gives rise to a new style.
Macramé a knitted visualization of expression, optics, and technique
A Blue Chair Rayon knitting, macramé
B Green Chair Synthetic yarn knitting, macramé
C Grey Chair Synthetic yarn knitting, macramé
Since 2014 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Mara Salehi-Gilani
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Selma Waibel
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Selma Waibel
The working title of the semester project on display is body culture. A small variety of knitted uphol- stery fabrics were designed. Two contrasting groups demonstrate how the current ideal of beauty, on the one hand, and the imperfection and authenticity of the human body, on the other, are visualized in fash- ion. The first group is characterized by perfection and flawlessness, with clean, transparent knitted fab- rics incorporating materials such as synthetic strings. The rough knitted fabric of the second group is inspired by human skin itself, its scars, and its volu-minous curves.
Body culture
A Chair 1 Cotton, synthetic string knitting
Since 2013 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Selma Waibel
B Chair 2 Polyamide, wool knitting
C Chair 3 Cotton, elastic strap knitting
D Chair 4 Cotton, Lurex knitting
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Lena Waizmann
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Lena Waizmann
The collection of upholstery fabrics was inspired by and named for the 2015 motion picture Ex Machina by Alex Garland. The movie focuses on the latest ad- vances in computer technology and centers on an-thropomorphic robots that not only look like human beings, but also behave authentically thanks to their artificial intelligence. The upholstery collection reflects this development from machine to human.
Ex Machina
A Robot: Hardened carbon, optical fibre, polyester weave, electrical installation, padding B Robot to Human Cotton, leather, optical fibre, polyester weave, macramé, electrical installation, padding C Human Cotton, leather, polyester, viscose weave, macramé, braids, padding
Since 2013 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Max Borchert
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Franziska Theresia Walz
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In Shell considers the cocoon as a natural protective covering for a sensitive creature. The flexible structured pavilion is reminiscent of a shell and enables the person sitting in the chair to inter- act with the outside world, without separating the sitter from their surroundings. The chair conveys a feeling of security and comfort.
Franziska Theresia Walz
In Shell
Since 2014 Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Franzika Theresia Walz
A In Shell Cotton, wool knitted fabric with felted parts, colour gradient dyed
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The Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design with a history extending back over 250 years is one of the largest of its kind with University status. The Acad- emy has a longstanding academic tradition of ex- cellence in the fields of fine art, architecture, design and conservation. With 18 academic degree courses across four departments it provides a broad spectrum of educational and research opportunities to over 900 students from all over the world. Its 32 excellently equipped technical workshops include metal, wood and plastics, as well as bronze casting, print, textile, glass and bookbinding. Students study in small classes under the intensive supervision of professors, academic staff and part-time lecturers.
The Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design is entitled to confer degrees at doctoral and post- doctoral level. Students can achieve further qualifi- cations in areas ranging from Architecture, Art Related Studies, Art History and Media Theory to Art Education and Philosophy. In Stuttgart Killesberg the Academy is situated nearby the world-famous Weißenhof-Siedlung (Bauhaus architecture).
TheAcademy
www.abk-stuttgart.de 47
Imprint
Textile Design Course Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
Marina Doroschkov, Sofia Furmanov, Leandra Heisen, Lauren Luckert da Costa Tavares, Janna Luisa Monn, Laura Nell, Myriam Ruff, Mara Salehi-Gilani, Selma Waibel, Lena Waizmann, Franziska Theresia Walz, Dorothee Silbermann, Karl Höing
Cordula Friedländer, Lexsys GmbH
HuM, hum-co.de
Authors of the projects, Maxilmilian Borchert: Sharechair, Ex Machina
Offizin Scheufele Druck & Medien GmbH & Co. KG
Roboto Sans, Prata
LuxoArt Samt
© 2017, Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design
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Our thanks to everyone for their support with the publication and the exhibition.
Design Language
Fondazione Milano Civica Scuola Interpreti e Traduttori Altiero Spinelli
Milan Design Week 4 – 9 April 2017