Fashion merchandising book

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  1. 1. BasicsFashionManagement01 VirginiaGrose AVA Academias Basics Fashion Management titles are designed to provide visual arts students with a theoretical and practical exploration of each of the fundamental topics within the discipline of fashion management. Packed with examples from students and professionals and fully illustrated with clear diagrams and inspiring imagery, they offer an essential exploration of the subject. Fashion Merchandising is a comprehensiveguidetothefashion industry, which is an exciting and challenging environment in todays global marketplace. The business of fashion can be viewed as a critical path and each milestone in it, from product concept to end consumer, is specifically designed to add value. The key stages in this critical path are: concept, trend and idea generation; design strategy and product development; retail strategy; supply chain and logistics; promotions, sales and customer reaction. Each chapter in Basics Fashion Management: Fashion Merchandising aims to recreate the milestones in this critical path and in doing so is invaluable for fashion design, marketing, buying and merchandising students. To help bring the theory to life, case studies and interviews with industry professionals are included, as well as self-reflective questions and exercises. Ethical practice is well known, taught and discussed in the domains of medicine, law, science and sociology but was, until recently, rarely discussed in terms of the Applied Visual Arts. Yet design is becoming an increasingly integral part of our everyday lives and its influence on our society ever-more prevalent. AVA Publishing believes that our world needs integrity; that the ramifications of our actions upon others should be for the greatest happiness and benefit of the greatest number. We do not set ourselves out as arbiters of what is good or bad, but aim to promote discussion in an organised fashion for an individuals understanding of their own ethical inclination. By incorporating a working with ethics section and cover stamp on all our titles, AVA Publishing aims to help a new generation of students, educators and practitioners find a methodology for structuring their thoughts and reflections in this vital area. Virginia Grose originally trained as a fashion designer and has worked in the fashion industry for over 25 years within supply chain and product development. She gained her professional experience withCourtauldsTextiles,supplyingseveral majorUKandinternationalretailers. Virginia has worked with a wide range of clients from Marks & Spencer to Walmart, as well as a range of luxury designer cashmere brands. Virginia took an MBA in retailing at StirlingUniversity,Scotland,specializing in international retailing and marketing with a strong fashion bias. Virginia is currently the course leader at Westminster University in MA Fashion Business Management. She is still involved in the fashion industry and acts as a consultant for fashion brands. Featured topics context and concept from couture to high street designer typology research and idea generation trend forecasting product development the role of design in business the product mix garment specifications: sampling defining retail strategy the marketing mix position place price people the supply chain the textile industry supply chain management global sourcing risk management logistics and outsourcing in the supply chain ethics in the supply chain branding customer profiling building a brand luxury brands brand promotion brand protection Featured contributors Belinda Dickson George Sharp Kim Mannino Louis Vuitton Marks & Spencer Nicky Lovell Rob Hendry Topshop Walmart WGSN ava publishing sa www.avabooks.com http://blog.avabooks.com enquiries@avabooks.com sales@avabooks.com BASICS 01 fashion management Publishersnote BASICS FASHION MERCHANDISING 01 Virginia Grosefashion management FASHIONMERCHANDISING Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:US_CoverUS Text 9 7 8 2 9 4 0 4 1 1 3 4 4 US$34.50 CoverUS 02948-c2.indd 1CoverUS 02948-c2.indd 1 8/1/11 6:17 PM8/1/11 6:17 PM
  2. 2. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA)001_US 02948.indd 1001_US 02948.indd 1 7/19/11 11:51 AM7/19/11 11:51 AM FASHION MERCHANDISING BASICS 01 Virginia Grosefashion management Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:US_1 001_US 02948.indd 1001_US 02948.indd 1 7/19/11 11:51 AM7/19/11 11:51 AM
  3. 3. An AVA Book Published by AVA Publishing SA Rue des Fontenailles 16 Case Postale 1000 Lausanne 6 Switzerland Tel: +41 786 005 109 Email: enquiries@avabooks.com Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America) 181a High Holborn London WC1V 7QX United Kingdom Tel: +44 20 7845 5000 Fax: +44 20 7845 5055 Email: sales@thameshudson.co.uk www.thamesandhudson.com Distributed in the USA & Canada by: Ingram Publisher Services Inc. 1 Ingram Blvd. La Vergne TN 37086 USA Tel: +1 866 400 5351 Fax: +1 800 838 1149 Email: customer.service@ingrampublisherservices.com English Language Support Ofce AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd. Tel: +44 1903 204 455 Email: enquiries@avabooks.com AVA Publishing SA 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of the copyright holder. ISBN 978-2-940411-34-4 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Grose, Virginia. Basics Fashion Management 01: Fashion Merchandising / Virginia Gross p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN: 9782940411344 (pbk.:alk.paper) eISBN: 9782940447152 1.Fashion merchandising.2.Clothing trade--Study and teaching.3.Fashion design--Study and teaching. HD9940 .A2 G767 2011 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Design by Pony Ltd. www.ponybox.co.uk Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore Tel: +65 6334 8173 Fax: +65 6259 9830 Email: production@avabooks.com.sg Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:US_2 002_US 02948.indd 2002_US 02948.indd 2 7/19/11 11:54 AM7/19/11 11:54 AM
  4. 4. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:3 003-176 02948.indd 3003-176 02948.indd 3 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:3 1 CAREERS IN FASHION MANAGEMENT New roles are continually being created in the fashion industry, from buyers and merchandisers to product developers, sourcing managers, textile and fabric technologists. Todays graduates have more opportunities than ever before. 1 003-176 02948.indd 3003-176 02948.indd 3 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM
  5. 5. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:4 003-176 02948.indd 4003-176 02948.indd 4 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:4 Introduction TABLE OF CONTENTS 10 Chapter 1 CONTEXT AND CONCEPT 12 From couture to high street 16 Designer typology 18 Research and idea generation 24 Trend forecasting 28 Interview: Kim Mannino 34 Case study: WGSN 38 Chapter 1 summary 40 Chapter 2 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT 42 The role of design in business 46 The product mix 50 Garment specications: sampling 54 Interview: George Sharp 60 Case study: Marks & Spencer 64 Chapter 2 summary 66 Chapter 3 RETAIL STRATEGY 68 Dening retail strategy 72 The marketing mix: position 74 The marketing mix: place 80 The marketing mix: price 82 The marketing mix: people 88 Interview: Belinda Dickson 94 Case study: Topshop 100 Chapter 3 summary 6 Introduction 003-176 02948.indd 4003-176 02948.indd 4 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM
  6. 6. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:5 003-176 02948.indd 5003-176 02948.indd 5 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:5 102 Chapter 4 THE SUPPLY CHAIN 104 The textile industry 106 Supply chain management 110 Global sourcing 114 Risk management 116 Logistics and outsourcing in the supply chain 120 Ethics in the supply chain 126 Interview: Rob Hendry 132 Case study: Walmart 136 Chapter 4 summary 138 Chapter 5 BRANDING 140 Customer proling 142 Building a brand 144 Luxury brands 148 Brand promotion 150 Brand protection 152 Interview: Nicky Lovell 158 Case study: Louis Vuitton 162 Chapter 5 summary 164 Conclusion 166 Glossary 170 Bibliography 171 Useful websites 172 Index 176 Acknowledgements and picture credits 177 Working with ethics 003-176 02948.indd 5003-176 02948.indd 5 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM
  7. 7. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:6 6 003-176 02948.indd 6003-176 02948.indd 6 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:6 Context and conceptTable of contents 1 003-176 02948.indd 6003-176 02948.indd 6 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM
  8. 8. Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:7 7 003-176 02948.indd 7003-176 02948.indd 7 7/19/11 12:34 PM7/19/11 12:34 PM Job: 02948 Title: Fashion Management (AVA) Page:7 The fashion industry encompasses anything sold in a fashion retail store, which may (or may not) have a recognizable brand name. Fashion designers are both product managers and innovators; they might work on a freelance or an independent basis or as part of a larger design team, such as in a retail business or within the supply chain at a manufacturers or agents headquarters. But the business of fashion is not built on the design function alone: areas such as forecasting, product development, manufacturing, retailing, marketing, branding and promotion combine to create a multi-billion dollar industry that employs millions worldwide. Much like the products and designs that are created, each function within this vast industry is unique. Even at the end of a major global recession, new markets continue to open up in the fashion industry because customers still want to grab a bargain, purchase something unique to wear or be seen wearing the latest trends. Fashion design and product development adds value to a retailer

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