fashion export and management
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Assignment about the production process of Velvet and its prices.TRANSCRIPT
Corduroy Fabric
Corduroy is a textile made of twisted fibres that are woven in a form parallel to one another
which makes the 'cord' in the fabric. The word 'corduroy' is derived from the word, 'corde du
roi" which means 'cord or cloth of the king'. It is a ridged form of velvet. It is considered as a
long-lasting cloth. Clothes from corduroy are preferred by people Known for its durability,
corduroy fabric is used to make all sorts of clothes from corduroy pants to corduroy skirts.
They are not as popular as they were in the past but are still being made in many parts of
the world.
Corduroy fabric is known by its characteristic parallel, lengthwise cords or ridges. On first
glance, one may confuse corduroy with twill fabric. However, there is a basic difference in
their appearance. While corduroy has parallel ridges, twill fabric is known to have diagonal
rows. The parallel ridges found in corduroy are the result of twisting of the fibers as one
weaves the fabric.
Corduroy fabric was initially made from cotton only. However, present variations of corduroy
fabric include a number of other fibers such as polyester, rayon as well as acrylic.
Moreover, modern versions of the fabric have been noted to have tufted cords. At times,
you may find channels between the tufts.
Uses of Corduroy fabric
There are quite a number of uses for corduroy fabric. Popularly used in the manufacture of
casual as well as business clothing, corduroy fabric is also a favorite for the manufacture of
winter clothing. The fabric has also been used in the making of shirts, caps, trousers as well
as bags. Another popular use of the fabric is in the manufacture of furniture upholstery.
The particular use of the fabric largely depends on the width of the cords that the fabric has.
In technical terms, this width is referred to as the "wale" of the fabric. The wale of the fabric
ranges from about 1.5 to 21. Shirts made of corduroy will typically have narrow wales as
this fabric is softer to the touch. On the other hand, corduroy fabric with wider wales will be
used for the manufacture of upholstery as well as pants.
The thickness of corduroy cords makes the fabric quite warm. As such, clothes made from
this fabric are typically worn during the winter.
Latest Trends
Types of corduroy fabric:
Corduroy can be broadly categorized as follows based on the wales size:
Broadwale: It refers to broader/larger wale sizes such that in 1 inch there are 4 – 6 ribs
(wales).
Midwale: It represents that medium category of wale size between 8 – 10 wales.
Pinwale: It is also referred to as Pincord or Needlecord, has 12 -16 wales per inch of the
fabric.
Babycord: As the name suggests is commonly used in baby or infant wear. It consists of
wale sizes between 18 wales – 30 wales. Due to its fine wale size it is often used as shirting
fabric.
Variegated Cord: Represents a special corduroy cut fabric in which the pile is cut unevenly
giving a unique look. Such an effect is possible in any wale size.
Hi – Lo: It is also a unique fabric design in which the pile has two different heights giving it
a fashionable texture. Such an effect is also possible in any wale size.
Midwale, Pinwale and Babycord are the most widely used classes of corduroy fabric in the
fashion apparel business.
Manufacturing process of corduroy (Referred from Velcord Textiles Pvt. Ltd.):
To manufacture superior quality fabrics, combed, compact yarns are used that meet the
highest technical standards. DuPont Lycra is used to get great stretch ability in fabric. The
first step in corduroy production involves the intricate and specialized weaving of the yarns
to produce uncut corduroy and velveteen fabrics. High speed Airjet Looms are used to
accomplish the task.
The uncut greige fabric is then transferred to the pile processing department. Here, the cord
or pile is cut on pile cutting machines. These machines are sophisticated, time-tested
machines that accurately cut the piled fabric. The number of wales determines the number
of cutting operations required on the fabric. This process is artfully implemented by
experienced team of processers.
The cut fabric is then brushed forming the pile and is transformed into beautiful corduroy
fabric. This fabric is then sold either as Greige or R.F.D (Ready For Dyeing) or Dyed,
depending on the customer’s requirement.
Manufacturing process of corduroy fabric consists of 5 stages as mentioned below:
1. Preparation
2. Weaving
3. Dyeing
4. Finishing
5. Packaging and dispatching
1. Preparation: Warp yarn is put on yarn feeder creel through which warp beam is
prepared on warping machine. Some yarns are very tender and soft hence need to
be made stronger before it can be put in the weaving machine. This is achieved in
the sizing machine where the yarn sheet is dipped in a binding chemical and then
dried by passing it through a heated chamber.
Figure description:1.Yarn sheet, 2.Binding chemical, 3.Squeezing,4.To drying
Yarn on Creel
Yarn Breakage Sensors
Warping
2. Weaving: The loom weaves the warp and weft yarn into two separate superimposed fabric layers simultaneously and the pile yarn is interlaced between them in either a "V" or a “W” orientation.
This pile interlaced between double sheet of fabric is then split apart by a high-speed laterally moving blade thus producing a cut pile velvet fabric. The fabric texture can be adjusted by setting the reed, pick and pile height.
3. Dyeing: Corduroy fabric can be dyed by following methods:
a. Direct dyeing on winches or jumbo jiggersb. Cold Pad for Ramazol dyeing
4. Finishing:
Finishing is done on brushing stenters and then on Super Finishing Line from Sistig Germany and Comet Unitech Italy. Fabric is dipped in softening chemicals, then squeezed through mangles and then dried and brushed simultaneously. The pile orientation can be set here to either flat laid or upright. Flat laid pile produces a shiny surface whereas upright pile gives a dull but soft surface. Then fabric is put in Super Finishing Line through entry and exit accumulators. These accumulators provide non-stop working capability of big batches thereby providing better finish without many stopping marks.
The fabric is passed through steam for pile blooming and then heated, this gives bloomed pile. Then the fabric passes through beater to remove any loose fluff. This process may be repeated again in tandem. Then velvet is passed through shearing to cut the surface evenly. Then fabric is calendered to remove any crease. A heated glazing roll in the end may be applied to boost the shiny surface of the laid down pile.
Then finally the fabric is rolled on edge guided rolling machine ready to be packed
5. Packaging and Dispatch:
The rolls are packed either in suspended type cardboard boxes or in bales, depending on the customer's requirement. Overseas dispatches are done in containers and can be mounted in pallets as well. A 20 feet container can accommodate anywhere between 3,500 to 4,500 meters of fabric and a 40 feet HQ container can take anywhere between 8,000 to 11,000 meters depending on the fabric quality and mode of packing.
Cardboard box with end fitment
Lead Times
Lead time normally varies for each and every manufacturer depending upon their production capacity and varies if there is a requirement of Dyed and Finished Corduroy Fabric. It also depends upon the orders the manufacturers receive. It takes approximately 45-60 days for the production of Corduroy and Frosted Corduroy for an order of above 5 lakhs metres.
Manufacturer Selling Price
These are the prices of Lycra-Cotton Corduroy, currently in trend in the Fashion Apparel Business. These Prices are as per the Indian Textile Manufacturers.
8-10 Wales (Midwale) – Rs. 95-100/metre 14 Wales (Pinwale) – Rs. 120-125/metre
19 Wales (Babycord) – Rs. 140-145/metre 21 Wales (Babycord) – Rs. 145-150/metre
26 Wales (Babycord) – Rs. 170-175/metre
The SME’s in India like Noddy, Little Kangaroos, Mint, etc. (available on Jabong.com) predominantly use Midwale Corduroy Fabric (Cotton Lycra), which they procure from the Distributors of Manufacturers like, BVM Fabrics, Vayusut Industries, etc.; which they procure at a price of Rs. 180-200/metre.
Suppliers for corduroy fabric:
Domestic suppliers:
1. Velcord textiles Pvt. Ltd: Plot no.23, Mira Co-op Industrial Estate, Kashimira, Thane District. Pin - 401 104, India. Tel : (91) - 22 - 2845 5135
(91) - 22 - 2845 5037 (91) - 22 - 3295 8655
Fax: (91) - 22 - 2845 4217
Email id: [email protected]
2. Texperts India Pvt. Ltd. : 3, Commerce Centre,Gujarat Industries Compound,Vishweshwar Nagar Road, Off Aarey Road,Goregaon (E),Mumbai – 400063,Maharashtra, IndiaTel: +91 – 22 – 40777333
3. Aura herbal textiles limited: 69 N.I.D.C., Nr. Stovac Industries, Lambha, Post Narol, Ahmedabad 382 405, Gujarat, India Phone: +91 - 79 - 25711685 Fax: +91 - 79 - 25714232E-mail:[email protected]@auraherbalwear.com
4. Maple International Pvt. Ltd. : Behrampur Road, Village KhandsaNational Highway 8, GurgaonHaryana -12200, INDIA
Email: [email protected]: +91 98118 55555
Email: [email protected]: +91 98110 67649
5. BVM Textiles Pvt. Ltd. : Rohtak Road, Near Ishwar Dharam Kanta, Kalupur chungi, Sonepatsonepat - 131001 (Haryana) India
Phone(s) : 0130-2212444Mobile : 09813447000
6. Vardhman textiles limited: Vardhman Textiles LimitedChandigarh Rd,Karam ColonyLudhiana, Punjab 141010
7. Bal Krishna Textiles Pvt. Ltd. : Narol Cross Road, Bombay Highway,Narol, Ahmedabad –
382 405 Gujarat.IndiaTel No. +91 - 79 - 25713878/79
Fax No. 91 79 25715606
Some other domestic suppliers are
Indo chord, Vayusut Industries, Suzuki suiting pvt. ltd., exim tradelinks etc.
International suppliers:
1. Narula and Sons Company Limited,Thailand2. Regal Textile Company, China3. KS Exports, China4. Goldlink Industries Company Limited5. Tashiro Enterprise, Bangladesh .etc