Fashion 1910’s – 1919’s

Rich & exotic opulence in first half of decade - Orientalism

Practicality of garments during WWI – 1914 – 1918

Changes made because of necessity over fashion

Periods of upheaval are often a catalyst for profound social change, which in turn is a catalyst for dramatic change in fashion.

Influences

Women’s suffrage movement Roots of Prohibition Great Influenza Epidemic (1918) Titantic sank in 1912 Frank Lloyd Wright – Arts & Crafts

movement Silent Films – Charlie Chaplin & Mary

Pickford

Designers

Jacques Doucet Mariano Fortuny Coco Chanel

Silhouette

Rectangular

- Tunic over a long underskirt

- Empire waist early – loosened and gradually dropped to natural waist

- Tunics gradually became longer and underskirts were made fuller and shorter

- 1916 – calf-length dresses over ankle length underskirt

Hobble Skirt

Mimicked the Harem skirts of middle east

1914 Widest at hips – narrow at ankle

The Great WarWWI 1914 – 1918 Women went to work – factories Independence increased – levels of activity

and desire for practical shoes Clothing more utilitarian – tailored, mannish

appearance Hemlines inched up – dropped underskirts –

above ankles – material shortages Darker Colors – Mourning – Monochrome

look

Hats/Hair Styles

Large hats with wide brims early Small hats with flat brims – end Bobbed haircut

Men

Unchanged Styles Sack Suit Pants with cuff/with front/back creases Tuxedo jacket Ties same

Children

Boys – suits with trousers Girls – less “adult”

- shorter skirts

- Material Rationing