FASH 15 textiles

natural protein fibers—wool

natural protein fibers

are of animal origin•wool & specialty wools—hair & fur of animals•silk—secretion of the silk caterpillar

natural protein fibers are luxury fibers today•originally silk, vicuna, cashmere and camel•wool production rates decrease while costs increase

composed of various amino acids—have some common properties due to similar chemical composition:•hygroscopic—absorb moisture and generate heat

wool

wool’s combined properties unequaled by any manufactured fiber•ability to be shaped by heat & moisture•good moisture absorption without feeling wet•excellent heat retention•water repellency•feltability•flame-retardancy

one of the earliest fibers to be spun into yarns & woven into fabric—most widely used textile fiber before the Industrial Revolution

production of wool

in 2007:•Australia—22.5%•New Zealand—18.8%•China—18.8%•Eastern Europe—10.0%•U.S.—.8% (ranked 10th)

Merino sheep produce most valuable wool:•good quality fleeces weigh 15-20 lbs each•3-5 inches long & very fine•produces high-quality, long-wearing products•has soft hand & luster, good drape

production of wool

fine wool in the U.S. is produced by 4 breeds:•Delaine-Merino•Rambouillet•Debouillet•Targhee

•majority produced in Texas and California•2 ½ inches long•often used for products that compete with Merino

production of wool

greatest share of U.S. wool productions is medium-grade—removed from animals raised for meat

these wools:•have larger diameter•have greater variation in length (1 ½ - 6 inches)•are used for carpeting—coarser fiber has high resiliency & good abrasion resistance

15 breeds commonly found in U.S. vary tremendously in appearance & type of wool—most raised in the west

production of wool

•generally sheared once a year—spring•fleece is removed in one piece with long, smooth strokes beginning at legs & belly

as alternatives to shearing (cut costs)•chemical feed additive—makes wool brittle; several weeks later wool can be pulled off•injection—causes sheep to shed fleece within week

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7646yA3dBSw

production of wool

raw wool/grease wool—newly removed—30-70% of weight is impurities; sand, dirt, grease, dried sweat (suint)

clean/scoured wool—impurities removed

grease is purified to lanolin & used in creams, cosmetics, soaps & ointments

grading—evaluating fleece for fineness & length

sorting—single fleece separated into sections of fibers of different quality

types & kinds of wool

the term wool legally includes fibers from sheep, angora & cashmere goat, camel, alpaca, llama, & vicuna

•sheared wool—live sheep•pulled wool—pelts of meat-type sheep•recycled wool—worn apparel & cutter’s scraps•lamb’s wool—animals less than 7 months old

often blended with less expensive fibers:•reduce cost•extend use

types & kinds of wool

Federal Trade Commission defines label terms as:•virgin wool—never been processed•wool—new wool or wool fibers reclaimed from knit scraps, broken thread and noils (short fibers removed in making worsted yarns)

•recycled wool—scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are shredded back (garnetted) to the fibrous state & reused

terms on a label do not refer to quality of fiber, but to past use

types & kinds of wool

quality is based on:•fiber fineness•length•scale structure•color•cleanliness•freedom from damage caused by environment or processing

physical structure of wool—length

•merino wool—1 ½ - 5 inches•long, fine wool fibers—average 2 ½ inches•worsted—compact yarn made from longer fibers with greater uniformity that have been combed

•shorter fibers—average 1 ½ inches •woolens—softer, more loosely twisted yarn made from shorter, less uniform & less parallel fibers

diameter varies from 10-50 micrometers

complex structure with cuticle, cortex & medulla

physical structure of wool—medulla & cortex

medulla is a microscopic, honeycomb-like core containing air spaces—increase insulating power

appears as dark area when seen through microscope—usually absent in fine wools

physical structure of wool—medulla & cortex

cortex is the main part of the fiber—made up of long, flattened, tapered cells with nucleus near center

cortical cells on two sides of wool fiber react differently to moisture & temp—thus unique, 3D crimp

physical structure of wool—cuticle

the cuticle consists of:

epicuticle—thin, nonprotein membrane that covers scales; provides water repellency

scales—a dense, nonfibrous layer that contributes to wool’sabrasion resistance and felting properties; can irritate the skin

physical structure of wool—cuticle

felting is unique & important to wool—based on structure of the fiber

combine agitation, friction & pressure with heat & moisture—adjacent wool fibers’ scale edges interlock

prevents fiber from returning to original position

results in shrinkage, or felting, of fabric

participation activity:felting wool

…take a piece of wool fabric…wet the wool with soapy water (detergent speeds wetting)…work the wool with your hands—rolling it back & forth or around…after several minutes, examine the result and answer the following questions:•is it felted?•can you separate the individual fibers?•explain what happened.

chemical composition of wool

wool fiber is a cross-linked protein called keratin— same protein found in horns, hooves & in human hair and fingernails

keratin consists of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen & sulfur—combine to form over 17 different amino acids

flexible molecular chains of wool held together by natural cross links—cystine linkages—most important part

if damaged, entire structure destroyed:alkalis, pressing & steaming, careless washing, exposure to light

properties of wool—aesthetics

wool contributes loft & body to fabrics

has matte appearance—shorter fibers often blended with longer fibers to modify luster or texture

drape, luster, texture, and hand vary according to: •yarn structure •fabric structure•finish

examine varieties of wool fabrics

properties of wool—durability

moderate abrasion resistance stems from scale structure & excellent flexibility—can be bent back on themselves 20,000 times without breaking (cotton—3,000 & flax—75)

•atmospheric moisture helps wool retain flexibility•crimp & scale make fibers cohesive & clingy—stronger yarns•excellent flexibility, elongation & elastic recovery

wool fabrics can be used & enjoyed for many years

properties of wool—comfort

more hygroscopic than any other fiber—13-18% moisture regain under standard conditions

poor conductor of heat—good insulator

wool fibers recover well from crushing—fabrics remain porous & trap air

some are allergic to chemical components of wool; others bothered by harsh edges of coarse wools

lightweight wools very comfortable in spring & fall

properties of wool—appearance retention

resists wrinkling and recovers well from wrinkles

maintains its shape fairly well during normal use

dry-cleaning helps to retain shape & size

when hand-washing be careful to avoid shrinkage or stretching

properties of wool—care

does not soil readily—removal of soil is relatively simple•grease & oil do not spot wool fabrics as easily•do not need to be cleaned after every use•layer with washable garments next to skin

gentle use of firm, soft brush removes dust & returns matted fibers to original position

garments require rest between wearing to recover

very susceptible to damage when wet

properties of wool—care

dry-cleaning recommended

hand-washing procedures:•avoid agitation•squeeze gently•support item so it does not stretch•air-dry flat

•do not machine or tumble dry—felting will occur•chlorine bleach damages wool•very sensitive to alkalis—strong detergents•attacked by moth larvae & other insects—store so inaccessible to moths

environmental concerns & sustainability

although a renewable resource, not produced without environmental impact•sheep graze so closely—soil erosion•animal waste disposal•sheep producers oppose programs to save wolves & other natural predators•treatment of sheep•shearing practices•health & back problems associated with shearing hundreds of sheep daily•intensive use of water, energy & chemicals used to clean wool fiber, produce fabrics & finish and dye them

environmental concerns & sustainability

organic wool—•sheep fed organically grown feed•graze on land not treated with pesticides•not dipped in synthetic pesticides

some companies use barcodes to enable consumers to trace path wool takes from grower to production—criteria must be met to have barcode•animal health & welfare•long-term environmental respect•fiber quality standards

uses of wool

most important use is adult apparel•perform well & look great•fit well—shaped through tailoring•durable fabrics drape well•comfortable under variety of conditions•retain appearance during wear & care minimal use in interiors—•standard by which carpet is judged•upholstery—durability & natural flame resistance

specialty wools

most obtained from goat, rabbit, and camel families

available in smaller quantities & usually more expensive

vary in quality & require dry cleaning

two categories: •coarse, long outer hair—interlinings, upholstery & some coatings•soft, fine undercoat—luxury coating, sweaters, shawls, suits, dresses, interior textiles

mohair

•angora goat•major producers: South Africa, U.S., Turkey•sheared twice a year—fall & spring•adult goat yields about 5 lbs of fiber•fiber length 4-6 inches/8-12 inches •used in hand-knitting yarns, pile fabrics & suitings

qivuit

•rare, luxurious fiber•underwool of domesticated musk ox—6 lbs of wool per year•can be used just as it comes from animal•resembles cashmere in hand & texture—much warmer•shed naturally

angora

•hair of angora rabbit•produced in Europe, Chile, China, & U.S.•harvested up to 4 times/year—plucking or shearing•fiber yield varies with rabbit, health, breed 8-30 oz.•two most common breeds—•English—fine, silky fiber•French—coarser

camel hair

•obtained from two-humped, Bactrian camel•major producers: China, Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia, New Zealand, Tibet, Australia•excellent insulator•collected as shed or sheared—about 5 lbs/year•finer fibers valued for apparel•often blended with sheep’s wool•used in coats, jackets,scarves & sweaters

cashmere

•small Cashmere goat•raised in China, Mongolia, Tibet, Afghanistan, Iran•main source of income for herders in these countries•vary in color from white to gray to brownish gray•usually combed by hand during molting season•used for sweaters, coats, suits, jackets, loungewear & blankets•fabrics are warm, buttery in hand,and have beautiful draping

llama & alpaca

•domesticated animals of South American camel family branch•fiber 8-12 inches long•noted for softness, fineness, & luster—appreciated by fashion designers•natural colors range from white-light fawn, light brown, dark brown, gray & black•used for apparel, handcrafts & rugs•more difficult to dye than other wools•llama is coarser and most often used for coats, suitings, ponchos & shawls

vicuna & guanaco

•rare wild animals of South American camel family•were killed for fiber, now sheared similar to sheep•vicuna is one of softest, finest, rarest and most expensive of all textile fibers•short, very lustrous fiber; light cinnamon in color•threatened species—poaching continues to be problem

yak

•produced by large ox found in Tibet & Central Asia•collected by combing out during spring molt•fiber is smooth & lustrous•often used natively in apparel, rope, tent covers•internationally used to blend with cashmere—extend use & lower cost•coarser than cashmere•dark brown or black