FASH 15 textiles

natural cellulosic fibers—seed fibers

natural cellulosic fibers

all plants contain fibrous bundles that give •strength to the stem & root•pliability to the leaves•cushioning or protection to developing seeds

natural cellulosic fibersclassified according to plant component from which they are removed:•seed•stem (bast)•leaf•miscellaneous—root, bark, husk, moss

natural cellulosic fibers

Seed Fibers Bast Fibers Leaf Fibers Miscellaneous Fibers

CottonKapokCoirJute

FlaxRamieHempMilkweedKenafHibiscusNettleBamboo

PinaAbacaSisalHenequen

RushSea grassMaizePalm fiber

hundreds have been used—we’ll focus on the ones that are more globally significant or have potential for future growth

natural cellulosic fibers

properties common to all cellulosic fibersProperties Importance to Consumer

Good absorbency Comfortable for warm weather; activewear; interiors. Good for towels, diapers & activewear

Good conductor of heat Sheer fabrics cool for warm-weather wear

Ability to withstand high temp

Fabrics can be sterilized; no special pressing precautions

Low resiliency Fabrics wrinkle badly unless finish applied

Low loft; good compressibility

Dense, high-count fabrics possible; wind-resistant fabrics possible

Good conductor of electricity

No static build-up

Properties Importance to Consumer

Heavy fibers Fabrics are heavier than comparable fabrics of other fibers

Harmed by mineral acids, minimal damage by organic acids

Remove acid stains immediately

Attacked by mildew Store clean items under dry conditions

Resistant to moths, eaten by silverfish & crickets

Store clean items under dry conditions

Flammable Ignite quickly, burn freely with an afterglow and gray, feathery ash; loosely constructed garments should not be worn near an open flame; interior textiles should meet required codes

Moderate resistance to sunlight

Draperies should be lined

seed fibers

seed fibers develop in the seedpod of the plant

to use the fiber it must be separated from the seed—seed is then used to produce oil & animal feed

most important seed fiber?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KZWe0sYglc

cotton

cotton is an important cash crop in more than 80 countries

the major producers in the world are:•China—32.0%•India—21.8%•USA—12.2%•Pakistan—7.8%•Brazil—5.7%

in 2007 worldwide, 113 million bales (480 lbs/bale)

cotton

physical structure of cotton—length

cotton fiber is a single cell—grows from the seed as a hollow tube over 1000 times as long as it is thick

staple length is very important:•affects how fiber is handled during spinning•relates to fiber fineness & tensile strength

longer cotton fibers are finer and make stronger yarns

range from ½ - 2 inches long•upland cottons: 7/8 – 1 ¼ inches, Mexico/Central America (97% of US crop)•long-staple cottons: 1 6/16 – 1 ½ inches, Egyptian/South American•short-staple cottons: less than ¾ inch, Indian/Eastern Asian

physical structure of cotton—length

long staple fibers are considered to be higher quality—produce softer, smoother, stronger & more lustrous fabrics:

• Pima• Supima• Egyptian• Sea Island

physical structure of cotton—distinctive parts

the cotton fiber is made up of:•cuticle—waxlike film covering primary wall•primary wall•secondary wall—cellulose layers•lumen—central canal that carries nourishment

physical structure of cotton—convolutions

convolutions are ribbon-like twists that characterize cotton

twists form a natural texture that enables the fibers to cling to one another—thus despite short length spinning is easy

convolutions may trap soil making cleaning more difficult

physical structure of cotton—fineness

cotton fibers vary from 16-20 micrometers in diameter

cross-sectional shape varies with maturity:•immature tend to be u-shaped•mature nearly circular

physical structure of cotton—color

cotton is available in a range of colors—creamy white most desirable for dyeing purposes

interest in naturally colored cottons is increasing due to less environmental impact—brown, rust, red, beige & green are available

plant breeders continue to work to add blue, lavender & yellow

classification of cotton

describes the quality of cotton in terms of:•staple length—based on the length of a representative bundle; 19 staple lengths•grade—refers to color and absence of dirt, leaf matter, seed particles, motes/dead fibers, tangles (neps); 39 grades •character—includes aspects such as maturity, smoothness & fiber uniformity, fineness, strength and convolutions

chemical composition of cotton

cotton is when picked is 94% cellulose—finished cotton is 99% cellulose

cotton can be altered using chemical treatments or finishes

EXAMPLE:mercerization—treating yarns or fabrics with sodium hydroxide causes a permanent physical change: makes fibers more absorbent and improves dyeability

properties of cotton—aesthetics

cotton certainly has consumer acceptance

matte appearance & low luster are standard

drape, luster, texture & hand are affected by choice of yarn size & type, fabric structure, and finish

cottons range from soft, sheer batiste to crisp, sheer voile to fine chintz & sturdy denim and corduroy

properties of cotton—durability

cotton is a medium-strength fiber—30% stronger wet

can be handled roughly during laundering & in use

abrasion resistance is good—heavy fabrics more so than thinner fabrics

fiber elongation is low, with low elasticity

properties of cotton—comfort

cotton makes very comfortable fabrics for skin contact because of absorbency, soft hand & good heat and electrical conductivity

static buildup is not a problem

has no surface characteristics that irritate the skin

good for use in hot, humid climates—moisture passes freely through fabric , thus aiding evaporation & cooling

properties of cotton—appearance retention

overall appearance retention for cotton is moderate with very low resiliency

hydrogen bonds holding molecular chains together are weak so it wrinkles easily

all-cotton fabrics shrink unless finished otherwise; untreated cottons shrink less in cool water with drip dry

cotton stays stretched out in areas of stress—such as elbows or knees

properties of cotton—care

cotton can be washed with strong detergents and requires no special care during washing and drying

white cottons can be washed in hot water—dyed cottons retain their color better if washed in warm water

cotton releases most soils readily but soil-resistant finishes are desirable for some interior & apparel uses

excessive bleaching weakens cellulosic fibers

cotton fabrics respond best to steam pressing or ironing while damp—can be ironed safely at high temperatures

properties of cotton—care

cotton draperies should be dry-cleaned

cotton upholstery may be steam-cleaned with caution

cottons should be stored clean and dry

cotton is harmed by acids—fruit & fruit juice stains should be treated promptly

cotton oxidizes in sunlight which causes yellowing and degradation—some dyes are especially sensitive

environmental concerns & sustainability

•agrichemicals—pest control, defoliants•soil erosion•water-intensive•genetically-modified cotton ???

long-term environmental & health effects are unknown

organic cotton—no synthetic commercial pesticides or fertilizers are used

transition cotton—produced on land where organic farming is practiced but 3 year minimum has not been met

green cotton— fabric that has not been bleached or treated with other chemicals

conventional cotton—everything else

environmental concerns & sustainability

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2Crnk9ZiZs

identification of cotton

microscopic identification of cotton is relatively easy—convolutions are easily seen along the fiber

burn tests verify cellulose

fiber length helps identify content

cotton is soluble is sulfuric acid

uses of cotton

cotton is the single most important apparel fiber in the US

also very important in interiors because of its versatility, natural comfort and ease of finishing and dyeing•sheets & pillowcases•blankets & bedspreads•draperies & curtains•upholstery•slipcovers•rugs•wall coverings

uses of cotton

medical, surgical & sanitary supplies frequently made of cotton—can be autoclaved for sanitization

technical uses include book bindings, luggage, handbags, shoes, slippers, tobacco cloth, woven wiping cloths

recycled denim? paper currency, insulation

other seed fibers—coir

coir comes from fibrous mass between outer shell and husk of the coconut

has good resistance to abrasion, water & weather

used for indoor/outdoor mats, rugs, floor tiles, and brushes

floor textiles are extremely durable and blend with many interior styles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM3uviXP0VU

other seed fibers—kapok

kapok is obtained from the seed of the Java kapok (silk cotton) tree or the Indian kapok tree

fiber is lightweight, soft, hollow, very buoyant; breaks down quickly

difficult to spin into yarns—used mainly as fiberfill

researchers are studying ways to blend kapok with cotton for apparel uses

other seed fibers—milkweed

milkweed produces a soft, lustrous, hollow-floss seed fiber resembling kapok

has been used as fiberfill in comforters, personal flotation devices and upholstery

very difficult to spin into yarns because it is so weak, smooth and straight

also known as silkweed fiberand asclepias cotton