Michelle MatkovichEsthetics Project Two

Spring 2014

Oliver Finley Academy

Exfoliation Project 2014

Acidic solutions used in Esthetics

Chemical Exfoliation Basics

• A chemical solution applied to improve the skin’s texture and tone.

• Removes the skin’s damaged outer layers • Stimulates new skin growth• Helpful for blemishes, fine lines, pigmentation

Cell Renewal Factor Skin cell turnover refers to the rate of cell mitosis and migration

from the dermis to the top of the epidermis. In other words, how long the skin takes to heal and reveal results.

Our CRF (Cell Renewal Factor) changes as we age: Babies 14 days,Teenagers 21 – 28 days, Middle age 28 – 42 days, 50 and up 42 – 84 days

Easy CRF formula: 20 year old 14 days. Add one for each extra year.

For example, 34 year old 14+14=28days for CRF.

Do antioxidant and retinol serums actually penetrate the epidermis and benefit the skin without exfoliation?

Why Exfoliation There are 15 to 20 layers of dead skin cells, giving skin a dull

appearance. Regular exfoliation keeps pores unclogged and increase CTR. Water based products containing AHA's tend to dissolve the

intracellular "glue" that holds dead cells together on the skins surface.

The AHA exfoliation approach leverages the skins own defense mechanism response and has been shown to stimulate the production of fresh skin cells.

When continued for a period of a few months, it leads to an effective gentle, gradual, enhanced cell renewal rate

Enhanced Cell Renewal exposes better moisturized skin, with less sun damage. This means a lighter complexion, fewer pigmentation spots and less fine lines and wrinkles.

The skin is prepared for maximum absorption of serums.

pH and Chemical Peels• The level of acidity or alkalinity of any solution

is measured by pH. • Acidity produces a stinging sensation.• Peels are lower than the skin’s natural pH of 4.2

to 5.62 • The lower the pH, the higher the acid and the

greater the sensation on the skin. • Alkaline solutions can irritate the skin with it’s

high pH. The higher the pH the greater chance the skin’s acid mantle will be disrupted.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids• AHA’s affect both the epidermis and dermis,

causing cells to shed more quickly causing some skin layers to thicken.

• The two most common AHA’s are Glycolic and Lactic Acid.

• AHA’s are derived from Citrus fruits, apples, sugar cane and sour milk.

• AHA’s are referred to as light or superficial peels.

AHA’s

• The objective of the glycolic acid peel is to speed up the natural skin renewal process, not wound the skin.

• Concentrations of 20-70% under a doctor’s supervision.

• Concentrations under 20% are available to Licensed Estheticians.

• Percentage is misleading as pH more accurately defines an acid’s strength

TCA

Esthetician Do’s for Peels• Undergo appropriate training• Complete a Client skin assessment and history • Perform a patch test at least 48 hours prior• Send client home with care instructions• Send client home with appropriate products• Take Before and After Photos to track progress• Manage expectations before starting a program.

Esthetician Don’ts

• Never do a peel on the first visit• Never perform a peel on a client using tretinoin • Never perform a peel on a client using isotretinoin• Never conduct a peel if a client has received Botox

or another injectable procedure that day.

Peel Consultation Questions

• Do you use sunscreen?• Have you ever had a skin peel?• Are you on any medications, or using tretinoin or

isotretinoin?• Are you pregnant or lactating?• Do you have allergies?• Are you prone to cold Sores?• What skin Care products are you currently using?• Continued…..

Questions Continued

• Have you had any of the following:

– Cosmetic Surgery– Botox Injections– Laser Resurfacing– Skin Cancer– Dermatitis– Hepatitis– Keloid scarring

Oliver Finley Skin Resurfacing Requirements

• The client begin the skin care regimin for one week before the first resurfacing treatment.

– Vital C Cleanser– Total Lightening Serum– Prevention+SPF/Moisturizer

Oliver Finley Skin Resurfacing Requirements

• An in-depth consultation and client history is mandatory.

• The types of peels used in the treatment series will be determined by the student with instructor supervision.

• Every service must be logged on the client history form along with a professional analysis of the outcome of each treatment.

Oliver Finley Skin Resurfacing Requirements

• Photos must be taken before and after each treatment.

• Photos must be taken for the project but the client does not have to agree to the photos being used in a permanent student portfolio

• Client Release Form’s must be signed and dated.

• Confidential Skin Care Evaluation must be completed, signed and dated by the client and student.

March 19, 2014• In depth consultation, history, skin analysis and

photos were taken.• Gave client Passion Peptide Enzyme Facial per

protocol.• Left enzyme on for 5 minutes and client reported

zero activity except chin area which were at a two on the 1 to 10 scale.

• Finished treatment with extra anti-oxidant serum, hylauronic filler and eye gel.

• Client skin dehydrated, absorbed all product. • Client’s skin looked better and she was pleased.• Determined that client is Excellent candidate for

peel Project.

Client Skin Analysis• Skin Type: Combination with medium pores

throughout T –zone. Range dry to oily. Slightly rough texture especially the lower chin area.

• T-zone pores congested may be oily under dry surface skin. Skin unbalanced.

• Eye area dehydrated and puffy. Eye sensitivities.• Mature skin with fine lines and uneven skin tone.• Sun damage with age spots and freckles.• Fitzpatrick II. Northern European.

• Ormedic Passion Peptide / Ormedic Lift • Skin type indications- unbalanced, pregnant, teens• 15% Blend: Passion fruit, Papaya, Pineapple, Polypeptides• NO STEAM, NO HOT WATER OR HOT STEAM TOWELS• • First Cleanse: Vital C Hydrating Cleanser. Remove with sponges and tepid water• Second Cleanse: Ormedic Cleanser. Remove.• Peel: Dispense 1 tsp. Passion Peptide Enzyme Solution into portion cup (put lid on cup)

– Start timer at beginning of peel application. Should take approx. 30 seconds to 1 minute max.– Application: Use circular motions with large cotton swab. Evenly apply to entire face. Use all of product dispensed.

• Start: center of forehead • Proceed counter clockwise down right temple and cheek • Work across chin including jaw line• Up left cheek and temple • Back towards center of forehead • Down the nose, and finish above lip. • Avoid eyes, lips, and nasal passages.

– MAX peel time= 5 minutes (includes application) for first time. – REPEATEDLY check erythema, and ask client activity level on scale 1 to 10.

• Remove quickly with CLEAN, COOL water and cotton squares until client feels NO ACTIVITY.– Discard cotton squares used for initial product removal. – Rinse cotton squares frequently for complete removal of peel. BE VERY THOROUGH. No time limit: this step takes as long as it

takes. • OPTION: Apply cool/ room temp towel.• Apply a layer of Ormedic Soothing Gel Masque (client may feel reactivation with mask.)• Leave on 5-10 minutes. Hand and arm massage. Remove Gel Masque with cotton squares. • Press into skin :1/2 pump Ormedic Balancing Antioxidant Serum with 2 Drops hyaluronic filler. • Apply Eye Gel to orbital area.• Apply Dime Size of Image SPF/ Moisturizer• Apply ½ pea size of Ormedic Lip Complex. • End with scalp massage.• Provide client with post treatment instructions (mandatory for ALL peels and microderm clients), discuss homecare

recommendations, and treatment schedule.

March 19, 2014 Prescriptive

• Recommendations Followed:

– Resurfacing Skin Care Package purchased– Oremedic Eye Gel purchased– Start peel after using skin care for two weeks– Appointment set for Wednesday, April 9, 2014.– Image Wrinkle Lift Peel Glycolic/Retinol Blend

March 20, 2014

• Follow up phone call– Client says she loved her skin – Reported that skin is soft and hydrated– Client is very happy

April 9, 2014

• Peel One– Analyzed skin under lamp after 1st cleanse– Minor improvement from using treatment kit– Image Glycolic/Retinol Blended Peel– Test Patch on inner forearm 8 min. no activity– Followed Protocol– Left on face for 5 minutes zero activity– Went over home care instructions

•• Image Glycolic/ Retinol Blended Peel • Update 3-19-2013• Skin types: resistive, oily, acne grades 1&2• NO hot towels, NO steamer, NO hot water, NO facial massage. • • First Cleanse: Vital C or The MAX Cleanser. Remove with sponges and tepid water• Second Cleanse: Ageless Cleanser. Remove.• Peel Prep: Dispense ½ tsp. I-Prep degreaser into portion cup (put lid on cup)

– Put on gloves. Saturate gauze with I-Prep degreasing solution.– Client will feel activity with I-prep application.

• Application: DO NOT GO OVER AREAS MORE THAN ONCE. Start on forehead: Vertical wipes from eyebrows to hairline. Cheeks: horizontal wipes from side of nose, across cheeks towards ears. Wipe over chin, jaw line, and nose. Ask client to tuck upper lip then wipe area.

• Allow solution to dry. Do not remove. • Get fresh water in bowl while I-Prep solution is drying.• Peel: Dispense 1 tsp. Glycolic/ Retinol Resurfacing Solution into portion cup (put lid on cup)

– Start timer at beginning of peel application. Should take approx. 30 seconds to 1 minute max.• Application: Use circular motions with large cotton swab. Evenly apply to entire face. Use all of product dispensed. • Start: center of forehead • Proceed counter clockwise down right temple and cheek • Work across chin including jaw line• Up left cheek and temple • Back towards center of forehead • Down the nose, and finish above lip. • Avoid eyes, lips, and nasal passages. • MAX peel time= 5 minutes (includes application) for first time.

– REPEATEDLY check erythema, and ask client activity level on scale 1 to 10. • Remove quickly with CLEAN, COOL water and cotton squares until client feels NO ACTIVITY.

– Discard cotton squares used for initial product removal. • Rinse cotton squares frequently for complete removal of peel. BE VERY THOROUGH. No time limit: this step takes as long as it takes. • Apply thin layer of Ormedic Soothing Gel Masque (client may feel reactivation with mask.)• Leave on 5-10 minutes. Hand and arm massage. • Press into skin: 1 drop of 15% Total Hyaluronic Acid w/ 1 pump Lightening Serum. (may add half pump of Vital C Serum if appropriate for client)• Apply pea size of Eye Gel to orbital area.• Apply dime to nickel size of SPF.• Apply ½ pea size of Ormedic Lip Complex • Provide client with post treatment instructions (mandatory for ALL peels and microderm clients), discuss homecare recommendations, and treatment schedule.

April 11, 2014

• Follow-up phone call

– Client reported that her skin looks amazing– Clients is continuing with home treatments.– She is very happy

April 16, 2014• Peel Two– Cleanse, Mag-Lamp Analysis, Photos.– Skin continues to show improvement– Skin is moist and smooth– Pores are smaller and complexion is clear– Image Glycolic/Retinol Blended Peel– BT micro current used to exfoliate after cleanse– BT micro current used to push serum after peel.– All protocols followed– Reinforced home care instructions– Follow-up phone call place the following day– Clients has no concerns and is very happy

April 23, 2014• Peel Three– Cleanse, Mag-Lamp Analysis, Photos.– Areas of hyperpigmentation remaining same– Changed to Image Lightening Lift Peel– Followed all protocol– Client reported zero activity– Spoke to instructor who recommended 5-Berry Peel

for remaining treatments.– Brows waxed and tinted prior to treatment and

sealed with petroleum jelly before peel applied– Advised to wait a couple of weeks before restarting

peel project again

__Image Lactic/ Kojic Blended Peel Update 6/04/2013

Skin types: resistive, oily, acne grades 1&2NO hot towels, NO steamer, NO hot water, NO facial massage. First

Cleanse: Vital C Hydrating Cleanser. Remove with sponges and tepid waterSecond Cleanse: Ageless Total

Cleanser. Remove.Peel Prep: Dispense ½ tsp. I-Prep degreaser into portion cup (put lid on cup)Put on gloves.

Saturate gauze with I-Prep degreasing solution.Client will feel activity with I-prep application. Application: DO

NOT GO OVER AREAS MORE THAN ONCE. Start on forehead: Vertical wipes from eyebrows to hairline. Cheeks:

horizontal wipes from side of nose, across cheeks towards ears. Wipe over chin, jaw line, and nose. Ask client to

tuck upper lip then wipe area. Allow solution to dry. Do not remove. Get fresh water in bowl while I-Prep

solution is drying.Peel: Dispense 1 tsp. Lactic/ Kojic Resurfacing Solution into portion cup (put lid on cup)Start

timer at beginning of peel application. Should take approx. 30 seconds to 1 minute max.Application: Use

circular motions with large cotton swab. Evenly apply to entire face. Use all of product dispensed. Start: center

of forehead Proceed counter clockwise down right temple and cheek Work across chin including jaw lineUp left

cheek and temple Back towards center of forehead Down the nose, and finish above lip. Avoid eyes, lips, and

nasal passages. MAX peel time= 2 minutes (includes application) for first time. REPEATEDLY check erythema,

and ask client activity level on scale 1 to 10. Remove quickly with CLEAN, COOL water and cotton squares until

client feels NO ACTIVITY.Discard cotton squares used for initial product removal. Rinse cotton squares

frequently for complete removal of peel. BE VERY THOROUGH. No time limit: this step takes as long as it takes.

Apply thin layer of Ormedic Soothing Gel Masque (client may feel reactivation with mask.)Leave on 5-10

minutes. Hand and arm massage. Press into skin: 1-2 drops of 15% Total Hyaluronic Filler w/ 2 pumps

Lightening Serum. Apply pea size amount of Total Retinol-A Crème.Apply half a pump Vital C Hydrating Serum.

You may apply dime size of Vital C Repair Crème if appropriate for client skin.Apply dime size of Image SPF/

MoisturizerApply pea size of Eye Gel to orbital area and ½ pea size of Ormedic Lip Complex to lipProvide client

with post treatment instructions (mandatory for ALL peels and microderm clients), discuss homecare

recommendations, and treatment schedule.

May 15, 2014• Peel Four– Switched to Glymed 5-Berry seeking greater results.

Skin analysis, Photos, Protocol as follows,– Gentle Purifying Cleanse– Gentle facial Wash 10% glycolic– Oxygen deep pore Cleanser, rinsed and dried skin– Applied 3 layers of 5-Berry, drying between layers– Monitored for redness, Client highest score 2.5– After skin dried, applied moisture mist and cell

protect serum and mega moisture cream.– Gave client follow-up and home care instructions.– Follow-up phone call, client experiencing skin

shedding post treatment days 3 to 5.

• Glymed 5 Berry Pigment Control Peel (updated 8-1-2012)• You will need:• -Gloves• -Gauze• -Cotton Squares• -Products listed below• 1. First Cleanse: Glymed Mega Purifying Cleanser• 2. Second Cleanse: Glymed Gentle Face Wash• 3. Apply thin layer Glymed Ultra Hydrating Enzyme Masque. Hand, arm, neck, and décolleté massage while mask sits. • 4. Remove with cotton squares and tepid water. • 5. Cleanse skin with Glymed Gentle Face Wash.• 6. Apply gloves. Saturate gauze with Glymed AHA Pre-treatment Solution. • -- Using even pressure, begin application at forehead, around perimeter of face in a clockwise motion, over chin, upper lip, nose

and finish on cheeks--• -- Do not go over any areas more than once.-- • 7. Instructor will dispense: ½ tsp of 5 Berry Peel into dish. Recap peel bottle lid tightly.• 8. Saturate 2x2 gauze in 5 Berry Peel. • 9. Apply 5 Berry Peel using same technique as the AHA Pre-treatment solution.• -- Do not go over any areas more than once at this point.--• -- DO NOT THROW GAUZE AWAY--• 10. Use a Woods Lamp to review peel application. Touch up any areas missed. • --This peel is self-neutralizing; it does NOT need to be removed.• 11. Spray with Skin Recovery Mist.• 12. Gently press ½ pump of Living Cell Clarifier mixed with Ultra Hydro Gel into skin.• -- Apply the following products slowly allowing each to be completely absorbed into the skin before moving to the next--• -- You may do gentle pressure point massage with application of hydrogel based on client skin reaction to peel--• 13. Apply Photo-Age Protection Gel SPF 15 to face, neck and ears. • 14. Apply Hydrating Eye Crème and Ormedic Lip Treatment.• 15. Provide client with post-peel information and product recommendations.

• •

May 27, 2014• Peel Five– Glymed 5-Berry per protocol– Instructors approved for 5 layers– Cleanse, Mag-Lamp Analysis, Photos– Smooth, glowing even skin tone– Advised client that improvement will continue over next

three months– Gave client follow up instructions– Continue Vital C Cleanser, Total lightening Serum and

Sunscreen.– Follow-up phone call– Client reported that skin is peeling off in layers.– Another call and client still shedding skin after 5 days.– Client is doing well and looking forward to bright new skin

Skin Shedding 3 days after 5 layer application

June 12, 2014

• Post Peel Project Signature Facial– Skin analysis and photo after cleanse.– Image Ageless Facial per protocol– Wax upper lip– Jane Irredale, mineral make up applied – Photos– Clients skin glowing and beautiful

•

• Image Ageless Facial • (updated 3/27/2013)

• First Cleanse/eye makeup removal: Vital C Cleanser– Remove with sponges and tepid water

• Skin analysis• Begin steaming with second cleanse • Second Cleanse: Ageless Cleanser

– Remove with sponges and tepid water• Mask 1: Mix Ageless Resurfacing Exfoliating Mask with Vital C Cleanser or Ormedic.

– Place steamer 18-20 inches away. – Steam while massaging skin for 3-5 minutes– Remove with sponges and then warm towel.

• Face, neck, and décolleté massage. (10min.)• a. Remove excess massage crème with warm towel• Mask 2: Vital C Hydrating Masque.

– Allow mask to work into skin for 10 minutes.– Perform hand and arm massage.– Remove mask with warm towel.

• Mix Ageless Lightening Serum with 2-3 drops of 15% Total Pure Hyaluronic Filler. – Press into skin.

• Apply half pump Ageless Total Anti-Aging Serum • Apply half pump Vital C Hydrating Serum• Apply pea size amount Vital C Repair Crème if necessary. • Apply half pea size amount of Eye Gel.• Apply dime size amount of SPF• Apply Ormedic Lip Complex• Discuss homecare and treatment plan.

Pretty Skin since 1963

Resources• http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/

ingredients/Peel-Away-the-Mysteries-of-Acids-103929301.html

• http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/product-application-videos

• Milady Standard, Joel Gerson, Janet D’Angelo, Sallie Deitz, Shelley Lotz,2013, Cengage Learning, Clifton Ny 12065.

• Oliver Finley Academy, Hand-outs, Notes, Protocols, Instructor Direction, spring 2014.