A publication of It’s A Winederful Life

CATALONIA Can DO It!

INSIDE:

Catalonia Can DO It!

Cava Comes of Age

The Botanists, Story Tellers & Passito-Style Wine

Keepers of the Castle

Trend Spotting

The Prior’s Promised Land

The Art of Wine

The French Modernists

El Celler de Can Roca

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When you arrive by plane in Barcelona, they will stamp your passport as having entered Spain, but make no

mistake --for all intents and purposes you are not really in Spain. Rather, you are in Catalonia, which may

actually return to its independent state come the November elections, but regardless of governmental status, the

people themselves are fiercely proud of being Catalan (as opposed to identifying themselves as Spanish). They

speak their own language – Catalan – which they tellingly explain is closer to French than Spanish or Italian.

Situated on the northeastern coast of the land mass adjacent to Portugal (as I took to calling the country), just

south of France, Catalonia boasts of a quality wine industry and an exalted gastronomic culture. There are over

30 Michelin-starred restaurants within the region. Home to El Cellar de Can Roca (and the much-missed El

Bulli), Catalans can cook!

They can also make wonderful wines. There are 12 Dominacion de Origen (DOs) within the triangular-shaped

region, running from Figueres at the French border in the north (somewhat of a continuation of France’s

Roussillon) to just beyond Tarragona in the south.

Despite its limited geographic stretch, there is a wide variety of climates and wine styles, making the Catalonian

region quite diverse. Low-lying areas closer to the sea provide more moderate conditions, while further inland is

much cooler. Additionally, the multi-peaked Montserrat mountain range offers a stark landscape on the

horizon and shelters the valleys from the various winds that blow through, most notably, the Tramontana.

Drink Wisely & Well

What does hold in common is

the repeated use of indigenous

grape varieties, namely

Garnacha (known as Grenache

in French and spelled as

Garnatxa in Catalan),

Tempranillo (known here as

Ull de Llebre), Cariñena and

the Cava trio: Xarel-lo,

Parellada and Macabeo. In

fact, the region is probably best

known for being the center of

Spain’s Cava production as

well as for the Priorat DOCa.

Throughout the region, large

multi-national companies

co-exist with tiny family owned

farms, all striving to produce

high quality wines indicative of

the Catalonian region.

4

Cava Comes of Age

Drink Wisely & Well

A dmittedly, Cava is big business. With an annual pro-

duction of f 250 million bottles, 55% of which are exported,

there is a lot of cheap and cheerful Cava produced each year.

But, when crafted with care, this sparkler can be so much more.

Cava’s connection to Catalonia dates from 1872 when the

Raventos family started sparkling wine production in the

Penedes area. Influenced by his travels to France – notably

Champagne - Josep Raventos initiated a secondary fermentation

in the bottle, capturing the yeasty aromas and CO2 within the

resulting wine, ultimately ushering in an age of bubbles.

Since Cava can legally be produced almost anywhere in Spain,

the Cava DO serves more to define production methods than to

mark geographical terroir. However, its origin and heartland is

still centered on the village of

Sant Sadurni d’Anoia in

Penedes, where the climatic

and soil conditions produce

the best wines.

Under the minimum require-

ments, the wine must be aged

for at least nine months in

contact with the lees, but the

better producers far exceed

these minimums. And, some

producers further limit their

production to Reserva

(minimum of 15 months) or

Gran Reserva (aged for 30

months or longer) levels in

their quest toward quality

Cava.

Although the very first Cava

was produced from

Mourvèdre, Cava, like Cham-

pagne, is most often a blend of varieties with current production

based primarily on the triumvirate of the indigenous Xarel-lo,

Macabeo and Parellada. These grapes are supplemented with

Trepat, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the latter two were permit-

ted as of 2002 and 2008 respectively). As is the case with most

blends, each grape variety brings its own unique and important

attributes to the wine – the whole being greater than the sum of

the parts. In this regard, Xarel-lo is prized for both its acidity

and structure; Macabeo is thought to provide elegance and fi-

nesse; and floral notes and freshness are attributed to Parellada.

Not surprisingly, these grapes perform best in different environ-

ments and when possible, Macabeo is planted on the grey

gravel of the Serralada/Litoral area, while Xarel-lo is grown on

the clay and deposits of the Depressio del Penedes and the slate

soils of the Serralada Prelitoral are given over to Parellada and

Trepat. Additionally, the majority of people feel that Parellada

needs to be planted at higher elevations to produce high quality

grapes. Yet, what is surprising is that, despite the reliance on

multiple grapes, each producer seems to have its allegiances to

a specific variety.

Cava’s Controversy In fact, it appears that grape varieties could spark quite a bit of

controversy among winemakers on which grapes result in the

best Cavas. In this regard, there were not just mild preferences,

but definite, adamant opinions. One winemaker even

completely trash-talked Parellada, but his identity will remain a

secret to protect the not-so-innocent.

Mostly Macabeo: Augusti Torello Mata Although the Augusti Torello Mata winery wasn’t founded until

1993, Augusti Torello Mata was responsible for opening the

first technical lab in the Penedes region in the 1950s, with a

focus on base wine production. As early as 1979, the family

began producing its Kripta wine, with seven years of lees

aging, (mainly for friends and family), before they even had a

winery.

Augusti Torello Mata winery works only with local varieties,

with a predilection for Macabeo since it ages very well and they

prefer to age their wines for long periods of time.

6

The entire 500,000 bottle annual production is all estate produced,

with an emphasis on producing the highest quality wines. According-

ly, not only are the grapes hand harvested, but they work at only 50-

60% of the permitted maximum yield. In addition, they use very low

(and slow) pressure for pressing – equivalent to that used for blowing

up a balloon –so as not to damage the grapes.

Similarly, the entire tirage process is completed at once in the

beginning of the year since it is the coldest month and, therefore, the

development will be slow, thereby promoting tiny bubbles and

elegance in the wine. In addition to the extremely long-aged Kripta,

all of their Cavas are aged longer than required.

Augusti’s son Alex admitted that, “I love Parellada,” but suggested

that it has two handicaps: high yields and large grapes, which can

produce only water and acid. But, if planted at high elevations, it can

ripen more slowly and offer fruity and tropical notes.

Juve Y Camps: A blend of old and new varieties

Similarly, Antoni Cantos Llopart, winemaker at Juve Y Camps, be-

lieves strongly that Parellada does best when planted at elevations of

700 meters and higher. Consequently, there is no Parellada planted in

the vineyards at Juve Y Camps’ newly built winery (designed by a

member of the family and completed in 2008), but rather it is found

further up in the hills, alongside Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

One of the larger scale quality-minded producers, Juve Y Camps has

250 hectares planted and produces three million bottles of cava each

year. Despite their size, they continue to hand harvest and all of their

Cavas spend a minimum of 30 months on the lees.

Drink Wisely & Well

Alex Torello, Augusti Torello Mata

Jose Maria Ferrar, Casa Sala With a strong emphasis on quality, they sell off the first press juice

and keep only the second pressing. This is opposite to what they do in

Champagne, but winemaker Antoni explained that the traditional Cava

grapes are larger sized and more easily juiced than those used in

Champagne, making the press juice more prized than the free run.

Reserva de la Familia, their flagship wine, brings together Xarel-lo,

Macabeo, Parellada and Chardonnay, while they also produce a Cava

from 100% Chardonnay as well as one from 100% Pinot Noir.

A Preference for Parellada: The Huguet brothers

Conversely, the Huguet brothers are more favorable in their estimation

of Parellada, although they do prefer to plant it at high elevations (a

minimum of 400 meters of altitude). When planted at this height and

harvested at low yields, they believe that Parellada can give delicacy

and elegance along with good concentration to the resulting wines.

For this reason, their Cavas often lead with as much as 60% Parellada,

joined by 20% Pinot Noir for body and rounded out with 20%

Macabeo.

Named for the original Feixes family that owned it, the house situated

on the Can Feixes property dates from the 15th century, with the

cellars built in 1768. Eventually there were no descendants to sustain

the property and it was sold to the Huguet family.

8

Today, the three brothers divide and conquer to maintain the

340 hectare estate, 80 hectares of which are planted to grape-

vines, with another 10 hectares given over to olive trees.

Although they studied conventional agriculture in school, they

are now practicing organic agriculture. Consequently, old vine-

yards are planted with grass and herbs and left to rest for 15

years to remove infection and disease. While giving us a tour of

the property, one of the brothers casually mentions, “We have

‘some’ sheep.” “Some” turns out to be 400 sheep.

Alta Alella: Three Cheers for Pansa Blanca

Waving the flag for “Team Xarel-lo,” also known as Pansa

Blanca, Alta Alella is situated within the tiny DO of Alella (the

smallest in Spain and home to only eight wineries). Alta Alella

is among the closest wineries to the city of Barcelona and, on a

clear day, you can make out the cityscape in the distance from

the property’s vineyards.

Given its proximity to the city, the area was historic for

producing wine for the bourgeois in Barcelona. But, for the

same reasons, as well as its beautiful seaside locale, vineyard

land gave way to second homes. Now, thankfully, some of the

land is being returned to use as vineyards.

The Pujol-Busquets family purchased an old house situated

within a national park and were given the rights to plant vine-

yards in 1991, with their first harvest taking place in 2001.

Josep Maria Pujol-Busquets was formerly the Technical

Director for Martini & Rossi for more than ten years, so he was

no stranger to sparkling wine when he decided to start his own

project. Meanwhile, his wife Cristina Guillen owns a well-

regarded wine shop in Barcelona, so is equally well acquainted

with the industry. Daughter Mirea studied biology and pursued

her Master’s degree in organic viticulture – a practice to which

her family has been dedicated since the beginning of their

project.

Maintaining 20 hectares of vineyards on the estate, the family

rents another 30 hectares in Penedes, dedicating 70% of their

production to Cava. They only produce at the Reserva and Gran

Reserva levels and do not add any dosage (sugar/sweetness) to

their wines, ensuring crisp, mineral wines with elegance.

The Ferrer Family: Reclaiming Casa Sala

While less focused on carrying a torch for a particular grape

variety, Casa Sala is equally intent on producing high quality

Cava. Reclaiming the family’s original 1852 estate at Casa

Sala, the Ferrer’s of Freixenet fame, have restored the old

winery at Casa Sala complete with its 150 year old press,

originally purchased in Champagne, still in use.

The Casa Sala Gran Reserva Cava is a finca (estate) wine, aged

for seven years and only made in great vintages. Here, Parellada

is traditional, while there is no Xarel-lo planted at the estate due

to its location in the southern part of Penedes and,

consequently, its proximity to the sea.

Drink Wisely & Well

10

Only a few years away from celebrating its centennial, the Ader-

nats cooperative was established in 1917 and produces both Cava

and still wines within the Tarragona DO. Prior to its founding, all

of the locals made wine in their individual homes, but in the wake

of phylloxera, it became too expensive to continue in this manner.

Consequently, it became necessary to pool resources and work in

concert with one another.

Designed by a local architect, the Adernats winery, along with 42

other cellars in the area, was built in a modern style typical of the

region,. Constructed of clay and limestone, the building easily reg-

ulates the temperature keeping it constantly cool even in the heat

of summer. The functional design extends to the inclusion of

troughs under each of the original concrete tanks as well as win-

dows along the top to vent out the gas to control the CO2 created

during wine production.

ADERNATS: Working together

Drink Wisely & Well

Recaredo: Not all Cavas are created equal Also limited to producing Gran Reserva level, vintage-dated

Cavas, Can Recaredo was established in 1924 by Josep Mata

Capellades, named in honor of his father Recaredo Mata Figue-

res. Today, Ton Mata and his three cousins manage the winery,

accounting for four of Recaredo’s nine grandchildren.

Focused exclusively on indigenous grapes, the winery actually

pulled out its Pinot Noir vines several years ago. Moreover,

Recaredo switched to biodynamic viticulture eight years ago,

becoming certified in 2010, and now uses five times less copper

in combatting disease than before the conversion. The property’s

oldest vineyard was planted in 1940 from which Recaredo pro-

duces a single vineyard Cava.

Albet I Noya: Bold Wines and Bold Moves Yet, despite these stellar examples of premium quality Cava,

others have decided to pursue an alternate course in producing

sparkling wines in the region.

The Albet family has been in the wine industry since the late

19th century initially selling its grapes, then eventually establish-

ing its own winery, Albet I Noya, during the 1950s.When his

father passed away, the young Jose Marie Albet felt a responsi-

bility to take over the family business and has been stewarding it

ever since.

No stranger to new ideas, Albet I Noya has been a pioneer from

its earliest days, practicing organic viticulture since 1979 and

dipping a toe into biodynamics as well. Similarly, Albet I Noya

was the first winery to sell its wine under screw caps in Spain,

making the move back in 2002.

Now, Jose Marie, who also serves as President of the Penedes

DO, has made another bold move. Previously a member of the

Cava DO, Albet I Noya is no longer part of that consortium.

Instead, Albet I Noya sparkling wines are produced as Penedes

DO Traditional Method wines.

Jose Marie and his colleagues want to protect quality of the

wines as well as the growers of the region. In this regard, the

regulations for Penedes DO Traditional Method wines are strict-

er, requiring a minimum of 15 months of aging instead of the

nine months minimum permitted for the Cava DO. In addition,

they eventually hope to have all of the Penedes DO Traditional

Method wines as 100% organic, but today this figure is only at

50%.

Ton Mata, Can Recaredo

All of Recaredo’s Cavas exceed the minimum aging require-

ments and, as with Alta Alella, all are Brut Nature (no dos-

age) as a way to represent the landscape and ensure that the

wines are especially well suited for food pairing.

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The BotanIST: Vins de Taller

Antoni Falcon, Vins de Taller

Drink Wisely & Well

V ins de Taller started small – very small. The first vineyard was planted in 2001 with only four hectares of vines,

while its first vintage, in 2003, was limited to only 180 bottles. Today, the Certified Organic vineyards planted on

their property have since been supplemented by vineyards elsewhere and production has risen to an average of

35,000 to 40,000 bottles annually.

Although Vins de Taller is now a commercial venture instead of the family

experiment it once was, experimentation continues with grapes from Langue-

doc-Roussillon such as Marsanne and Roussanne planted on the property.

While this approach is novel, it is far from revolutionary given the Emporda

DO’s proximity to these French regions.

Similarly, the Mistral winds that plague southern France find their way across

the border into Catalonia where it is referred to as the Tramontana. At their

height, the winds can reach forces of 100 km/hour, breaking off the young

shoots (see image, opposite page) and naturally limiting production. Conse-

quently, there is no need for a manual green harvest. The winds also result in

big diurnal temperature shifts, which help to preserve acidity in the grapes.

Above: The area surrounding their house teems with rose bushes and other

flowers, evidence of Antoni Falcón’s botanic roots. Left: This point is further

emphasized with wine names inspired by flowers such as Phlox .

14

Also located within the Emporda DO, LaVinyeta – meaning both

a small vineyard and a story (vignette) -- came into existence

when a husband and wife duo of agricultural engineers bought an

old, two hectare vineyard back in 2002. They have since grown

the property into 22 hectares planted with 19 different varieties

and are partially certified organic

Many of their labels feature one of the winery’s two main icono-

graphs –bird and muse- designed by the wife’s godfather. Their

Heus (the Catalan

word for “once” as in

Once upon a time…)

line of wines produces

a white, rosado and

red, all of which are

blends.

Their Vins de Pedra

blanc is a barrel-aged

Chardonnay from 50-

year-old vines located

in the Conca de

Barbera DO, situated

to the south from

Emporda.

Also working on a small scale, the Ferrer family of the Freixenet

brand is reaffirming its heritage. For Cava, this has meant a res-

toration at Casa Sala (see story on page 8), but for the family’s

non-Cava concerns, the focus has centered on its Freixenada

estate.

At 80 years old, Mr. Ferrer, owner of Freixenet, has since

retired, but he wanted to restore the 13th century farm house

since it represents the origin of his company. Consequently, the

estate now houses a new winery with the goal of making wine as

in the past but with modern technology. The result is something

completely different than all other Freixenet wines.

Taking inspiration from Amarone, the new Freixenada wine is a

passito-style wine produced from grapes dried in a temperature-

and humidity-controlled room. State-of-the-art tanks with two

chambers separate the free run from the press wine and large

(1200 L) bota of Slavonian oak, crafted by an Italian barrel

maker, have been left untoasted to receive the wine for an aging

period up to 25 months. Once bottled, the wines will be closed

under a glass stopper created by Swarovski crystal.

Story Tellers: LaVinyeta

All Dried Up: Freixenada’s Passito-style Wine

Drink Wisely & Well

16

The Margenat

family can

trace its history

and that of its

castle to the

10th century.

Originally

potters, the

family made

pots and

shields from

the local clay

soils, with the

old kilns still in

existence

(though not in

use) in the

middle of the

estate. Frank

Margenat is the

36th generation

of his family to

maintain the

property.

The estate is

located within

the Pla de

Bages DO,

which has a

long history of winemaking and was actually the largest region

in Spain prior to phylloxera’s arrival. But, even though the

family has a long tenure in the area, its entry into the wine

industry is much shorter. While they had been growing grapes

for some time, the winery itself dates only to 2003. Unfortu-

nately, the venture was supposed to be a partnership with

Frank and his father, but his dad passed away in August 2003.

But, in spite of his historic roots, Frank is not afraid to experi-

ment. Moving further along from its Certified Organic status,

he is experimenting with biodynamics as well as with concrete

eggs and clay amphorae – produced in France, but from clay

sourced from the estate. He has also spared no expense when it

comes to investing in the winery having recently purchased an

optical selection machine to further improve quality control

during sorting.

Due east of Pla de Bages, Emporda –known as Empurius by

the Greeks who inhabited the area 27 centuries ago – has been

producing wine since that time. The area also holds the dubi-

ous distinction of being the point where phylloxera entered

Spain.

Within the DO, Count Rocaberti built a castle in the village of

Perelada during the 14th century, adjacent to a monastery. This

castle was owned by the same family for centuries, with the

last count dying in 1899. At that point, a relative took over the

estate, but ultimately couldn’t afford to maintain the property

and sold it to Miguel Mateo in 1923. Inspired by the local

monastery, Mr. Mateo decided to produce wine, eventually

building a winery in 1932.

More recently, the region has shifted its focus, beginning in

the 1990s when Emporda welcomed a new generation of wine-

makers who eschewed traditional Spanish winemaking with a

new emphasis on quality. Castello Perelada, owned by the

Mateo family, was started during that period. Today, the win-

ery is still owned by the Mateo family, with Miguel’s grandson

currently at the helm. He is described, not as a wine lover, but

as a wine freak.

Perelada maintains five different vineyards encompassing five

different terroirs. The jewels in the crown are its two single

vineyards: Finca Garbet and Finca Maleveina, both of which

were planted in 1997. The inland 20-hectare Finca Maleveina

is planted to traditional Bordeaux varieties, with Merlot and

Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for nearly 60%. The tinier

Finca Garbet (12 hectares) is situated along the coast, just

three miles south of the French border. Here, the terraced vine-

yards (to prevent erosion) are planted to red Rhȏne varieties,

which do well in the warm, abundant sunshine despite

extremely low yields.

Keepers of the Castle: Oller del Mas & Perelada

Drink Wisely & Well

18

First of all, don’t let the “X” scare you off. Used heavily in

Catalan, the letter “X” is pronounced like “ch” as in cha-cha. In

this regard, Xarel-lo seems to be striking a chord and stepping out

on its own. In what appears to be a new trend, the traditional

Cava varieties are now finding their way into non-sparkling wine

production and earning accolades. For example, Augusti Torello

Mata produces a still, stainless steel fermented, Xarel-lo and a

barrel-fermented Macabeo called Aptia, while Adernats’

Macabeo AdN is a 100% Macabeo aged one-third in large

barrels, one-third in steel and one-third in concrete reminiscent of

Semillon and offering up some aging potential.

Similarly, Vilarnau is a large producer of Cava, but also produces

60,000 bottles of still wine. Most interestingly, the winery makes

a still Xarel-lo aged in chestnut oak. Why chestnut? Well, appar-

ently, Xarel-lo is very reductive, therefore the chestnut is a good

wood for aging it due to its larger pores, which permit more

oxygen to exchange with the wine. They previously used French

oak, but found it masks the flavors of the variety too much.

Among its still wines, Pares Balta offers up an off-dry, but nicely

balanced, 100% Parellada called Honeymoon and a duo of

Xarel-los – one blended with 15% Sauvignon Blanc and another

aged and fermented in oak.

At Vins el Cep, the Blanc de Blancs wine is an 85% Xarel-lo/

15% Chardonnay blend done entirely in tank, but with bâtonnage

yielding a refreshing wine with high acidity and lime and mineral

notes. Meanwhile, their single vineyard Xarel-lo wine, Clot del

Roure, is fermented in a combination of large oak and chestnut

barrels, resulting in a very integrated, but noticeable wood

influence.

Trend-setter Albet I Noya has several still whites, including its

Petit Albet Blanc (60% Xarel-lo/40% Chardonnay), XA (100%

Xarel-lo from “younger” vines) and Xarel-lo El Fanio (100%

Xarel-lo from 60+ year old vines partially aged in Acacia

barrels).

Finally, the Can Feixes Blanc Seleccio brings together Parellada,

Macabeo, Chardonnay and the rare Malvasia de Sitges in a

complex, still white with floral, pear, almond and citrus notes.

What’s Old is New Again

Beyond the non-traditional use of these grape varieties, another

trend spotted was that of non-traditional aging vessels. Or rather,

some of the vessels were so traditional as to be ancient – many

producers were using clay amphorae for aging their wines. Like

Oller del Mas, Pares Balta also sourced local clay for the

production of its amphorae. Additionally, the winery uses a

combination of large (400L) French and Hungarian oak barrels.

More modern approaches to vessels were the use of concrete egg

tanks, which were seen at a handful of wineries.

Weird Science At the Torres Winery, in Penedes, a high tech facility on the

estate more easily brings to mind a science fiction film instead of

a winery’s laboratory. Here, tiny vines in test tubes are the

precursor to restoring ancient varieties, which will eventually be

strong enough to survive the elements, but for now they are

happy in their sterile environment. Among the success stories is

Querol, a variety similar in structure to Syrah, with fresh

pomegranate flavors and lively acidity.

Similar research is being carried out at Albet I Noya. A man bent

over a grapevine, tweezers in hand, is carefully removing the

male part of the flower – birth control for vines? Not exactly,

rather he seeks to propagate indigenous varieties, saving them

from the brink of extinction. Among the reclaimed varieties is

Belat, which translates as “invisible cloak” in recognition of the

fact that the vine was hidden by time until Jose Maria found it

while riding his motor bike through the forest one day. The resto-

ration of these unique varieties is truly a trend worth supporting!

Trend Spotting: X Marks the Spot

Drink Wisely & Well

20

Priorat:

THE PRIOR’s

Promised Land

Drink Wisely & Well

Making Priorat a Priority Winemaking in the Priorat region dates to the 12th century when

monks emigrated from France and built a Cartusian monastery

here, bringing their viticultural and vinification knowledge with

them. As monks, they gave the name Priorat to the area in which

they settled, which literally translates as land under control of

the Prior.

Today, there are more than 2,000 hectares of vines planted in

Priorat, but before phylloxera (which arrived in 1890), there

were fourfold as many vines. After the epidemic, the majority of

people moved to Barcelona and elsewhere to make a living in

something other than viticulture.

The few who survived on grape growing did so with the

production of bulk wine. But, during the 1980s, the area saw its

first recognition of quality wines from Priorat, eventually

earning Spain’s highest quality designation – DOCa.

Despite Priorat’s international acclaim, the region is still quite

isolated and desolate. The village located nearest to the Salmos

winery is El Lloar, but when we tried to get coffee on a Saturday

afternoon around 4:00 PM, we were told that we’d have to wait

until 7:00 PM when the guy running the pharmacy closed it for

night and opened up the coffee shop.

Moreover, it is not for the faint of heart. Most producers are

relatively small, producing an average of 30,000 to 100,000

bottles annually. They must contend with extreme conditions:

very cold winters coupled with fog and very hot summers with

temperatures as high as 40oC. But, the rewards are worth it –

intense, ageworthy wines based primarily on Garnacha and

supplemented by Cariñena.

Scala Dei: In the heights

At Scala Dei, some of the historic Cartusian vineyards are still

under cultivation today. Initially owned by the monks until 1845

at which point the government took over church properties and

sold them to private companies, Scale Dei became the first

winery in the area, with 180 acres from the original plots spread

throughout 41 vineyards; the largest vineyard totals six acres.

Although Scala Dei’s wine was shown at the Paris Exposition in

1878, the modern winery wasn’t established until 1973. In 1974,

the first Priorat was bottled – called Carrtoixa, which was the

name of the Cartusian monastery.

The vineyards span a range of elevations with the lower altitude

vineyards situated at 1500 feet above sea level, while higher

altitude vines exist at 1800-2600 feet above sea level. Due to the

altitude, there is no Cariñena planted at Scala Dei since it is not

warm enough to ripen the grapes sufficiently. However, it is the

best place to grow Garnacha, ripening much later than elsewhere

in the region due to the height. Consequently, the maturation

process is slower and cooler, which avoids burnt skins and

results in potential alcohol levels of only ~14% at harvest.

22

Interestingly, Scala Dei chooses not to de-stem its high alti-

tude grapes because the tannins add aging potential to the

wine. Moreover, when Ricard Rofes arrived at the winery in

2007, he had the opportunity to taste wines from Scala Dei’s

library. What he found surprised him – the wines from the

1970s were fresher than those from the 1980s.

Rofes searched the records to see what, if anything, had

changed between the two decades and discovered that in the

1970s, there were no destemmers, no stainless steel (only

concrete), no temperature control (they used sulfur) and

large wooden vats. Conversely, during the 1980s, Bordeaux

style vinification came into vogue, while the 1990s brought a

Burgundian philosophy with an emphasis on single vine-

yards and village names. While these latter wines were

probably great to drink early, there was less aging potential

for them as a result of this winemaking philosophy.

Today, Scala Dei seeks to make wines in both styles to please

a range of consumers, but does so deliberately and with

careful attention to each stage of production.

Drink Wisely & Well

S almos: A hope and prayer come true

Despite its youth as a winery, the Salmos – meaning psalm –

project, owned by the Torres family, started in 1996 when Miguel

Torres decided to do wine in Priorat. However, the family has

desired to own land and make wine in Priorat as early as 1950.

The 80 hectare estate is planted to Cariñena, Garnacha and

Syrah, with grapes purchased from older vineyards to supplement

their own production. Run by Miguel’s daughter, Mirea, the

wines are a blend of the varieties. Mireia suggests that in such a

blend, the Cariñena is analogous to Cabernet Sauvignon, while

Garnacha behaves most like Merlot.

Mireia Torres Maczassek

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Merche Perez, Clos Galena

Clos Galena:

From leaden to lighter hearts

Drink Wisely & Well

Established at roughly the same time as

Salmos, Clos Galena is situated on the

southern limits of Priorat. Named for the

crystalized lead that was mined nearby,

Miguel Pérez Cerrada dedicated almost two

decades of his life to the family-owned winery,

while his wife Merche ran her pharmacy.

With an emphasis first and foremost on the

vines, the majority of money was directed into

the organic vineyard. However, over time, the

winery’s success necessitated the need to

invest in the winery and build a larger cellar,

which it did this summer.

As evidence of Miguel’s passion, once on a

visit to New York City Miguel and Merche

were forced to evacuate their hotel room due

to a fire. As they walked down the stairs to

safety, she was thinking of her daughter back

in Spain potentially about to become an

orphan, while her husband audibly lamented

the bottles of wine left in their room.

But, when her husband died suddenly in April

2013, Merche decided to carry on his dream

with the help of close friends who have rallied

around her. Although the adjustment has been

very emotional and challenging for her,

Merche is beginning to make her own mark on

the winery as she explores the link between art

and wine. Connecting with local artists, Clos

Galena has featured their art on its labels and

decorative crates.

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Drink Wisely & Well

The isolated DO of Costers del Segre is the most westerly of the

Catalonian DOs. Here, a small handful of wineries cultivate a scant 300

hectares of vines where there are more olives grown than grapes. The

area’s high elevation - higher than that of Priorat - means that the cooler

climate forces growers to pick at the end of October with the harvest

occasionally lasting until late November or even early December, depend-

ing upon the year. Sometimes, there is snow on the ground by then.

Among the few wineries operating in the region is Mas Blanch I Jove.

Although this husband and wife team both come from farming families,

they chose to start an iron company in 1975, which proved to be quite

successful. But, despite their financial success, the family led a simple life,

remaining close to home and never going anywhere. Then, in 1984, the

family won an all-expense paid trip to London that forever changed them;

it opened up their eyes to travel. They starting traveling from that point

forward and have since been to China, India and Canada among other

exciting destinations.

In addition to expanding their geographic horizons, the family has

expanded its interests into the worlds of wine and art. Since the winery is

essentially a hobby (their iron business continues to support them

financially), they are able to combine these passions, using all of the

money earned in the winery to support “starving artists.” Noticing that

artists make very little money in pursuit of their dreams, they commission

local artists each year. Accordingly, a walk through their vineyard is

almost like walking through a sculpture garden since various works of art

are scattered throughout the estate

Mas Blanc I Jove: The Art of Wine

28

LEON & TORRES:

Drink Wisely & Well

Founded in 1870, the Torres family name has been synonymous

with quality wine for several generations. But, it wasn’t until the

mid-1960s that modern viticulture and winemaking really took

hold for the company. At the time, Spanish wines were not par-

ticularly well regarded internationally; instead, the approach to

creating a quality wine was to “copy and paste” France.

Consequently, the winery focused on planting Chardonnay and

Cabernet Sauvignon, ultimately producing its Milmanda and

Mas La Plana wines, respectively. These vines continue to flour-

ish today, resulting in long-lived wines with power and concen-

tration. However, as Spanish wines have developed a reputation

on their own, the Torres family has also embraced more tradi-

tional varieties such as the Garnacha, Mazuelo, Garro, Samso

and Cariñena blend of its Grans Muralles.

Charting a similar course in viticulture, Jean Leon took a circui-

tous route from Spain and back before establishing “…the first

French winery outside of France” in 1963. After leaving Spain at

a young age, Jean Leon first went to Paris and then to New

York, initially working as a busboy and then driving a NYC taxi

(#3055 – now the name of the winery’s base line). After New

York, it was off to Los Angeles where he worked at Frank Sina-

tra’s restaurant and eventually opened the renowned La Scala

restaurant in Hollywood. With his financial success, Leon re-

turned to Spain, purchased land in Catalonia and pulled out in-

digenous varieties to plant French varieties.

Unfortunately, Jean Leon died in 1996 of cancer, but the winery

is currently owned by the Torres family who were good friends

with Jean Leon during his lifetime.

Philippe Miecaze and daughter Elise

The FRENCH MODERNISTS

Miguel A. Torees

30

In the town of Girona, an hour and a half north of Barcelona, the

Roca brothers -- Jordi, Josep and Joan -- continue to rack up Michelin

stars (they earned their third star in 2009) and worldwide acclaim.

Currently ranked as the #2 restaurant in the world on Restaurant maga-

zine’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list, El Celler de Can Roca

ceded the top spot it held in 2013 to Noma in 2014. For true foodies, Can

Roca is a reservation worth pursuing.

The multi-course meal (choose from a 14-dish Classic Menu or the 20-

course Festival Menu) is a feast for all of the senses with each dish not

only artfully plated, but scientifically crafted, before being lovingly pre-

sented by the server. For example, in a quest to texturize Cava, the Roca

brothers collaborated with Cava producer Augusti Torello Mata on a

revolutionary product – a solid Cava.

To complement the amazing meal, the restaurant’s wine list comes in

three hefty volumes – reds, whites and sparkling wines – each of which

are weighty tomes requiring careful study, stamina and the strength to

hold them aloft.

During a special insider tour of the restaurant’s wine cellar, Josep Roca

revealed his reverence for several key categories, notably Pinot Noir and

sparkling wines.

A FOOD PORN ADDICT’s WET DREAM

Josep Roca, El Celler de Can Roca

Drink Wisely & Well

32

All content and images, copyright © 2014 Tracy Ellen Kamens.

All rights reserved.

www.ItsAWinederfulLife.com | contactme (at) TracyEllenKamens.com

Front cover: Perelada’s Finca Garbet in Emporda; Back Cover: Alta Alella and Barcelona