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Page 1: Formulation Development of a Skin Rejuvenating Cream

FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT OF FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT OF A SKIN REJUVENATING CREAMA SKIN REJUVENATING CREAM

ByParul DixitM.Pharm (Pharmacology)

Submitted to-Dr. Ganga SrinivasanProfessor,SPTM, NMIMS.

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IINTRODUCTION

SKIN REJUVENATION:

The therapies are used to perk up your skin to restore its

youthful appearance are termed as skin rejuvenation

therapies. Skin rejuvenating products must address skin

clarity, darkening & pigmentation , loss of firmness, age-

spots, acne and uneven skin tone, which cause a decline

in the skin’s over all youthful appearance.

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Skin rejuvenation can be brought about by:Decreasing Skin pigmentation Slowing down the aging process of the skin

and removal of wrinklesKeeping the skin effectively Moisturized to

preserve the supple texture of the skin.

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Global Market & usage of Rejuvenating Creams

Concept of skin rejuvenation is a relatively new concept, earlier moisturizing creams, anti-wrinkle creams, anti-acne creams held a large portion of the cosmetic consumer market.

Product expectations and skin care needs for this large, consumer group go beyond addressing fine lines and wrinkles to actually treating skin tone and skin fitness

Women not only want to slow the aging process and but also attain that elusive rosy glow. As a result , the U.S. skin rejuvenation market was worth $4 billion in 2007.

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Various Procedures for Skin Rejuvenation

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Recent Advances in Delivery Systems and Product development

More sophisticated with new More sophisticated with new combinations of ingredients, combinations of ingredients,

delivery systems play an delivery systems play an increasingly increasingly important role. important role.

Formulators are challenged with the problem of transporting active ingredients to the skin that can moisturize, exfoliate and protect all at once.

Many facial treatment products now provide the proven benefits of AHAs with soothing ingredients to help eliminate irritation, as well as various anti-oxidants, enzymes, vitamins, botanicals, and sunscreens.

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Lancome unveiled new technology in a glycerin-enriched water droplet which holds the vitamin

C, protecting it for optimum effectiveness.

L'Oreal's patented micro-sphere delivery

Christian Dior another cosmetic company is

utilizing liposomes for delivery of active

ingredients.

Many cosmetic companies still

employ conventional cream bases as

delivery systems

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Herbal Rejuvenating Creams

In the Indian Market the following rejuvenating creams are available:

Recova – Paras Pharmaceuticals Himalaya – Anti-Wrinkle & rejuvenating cream Neova Replenix green tea cream Revale anti-aging and rejuvinating cream Avon Skin rejuvenating cream

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AIM & OBJECTIVE

The objective of this project work is Formulation Development of a Herbal Rejuvenating Cream.

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PLAN OF WORK

• Selection of Active Ingredients & Herbs• HPTLC of the individual Herbal Ingredients• Selection of ingredients for a cream base• Optimization of a Cream Base• Preparation of the rejuvenating herbal Cream• Evaluation of viscosity, appearance and PH of the

cream in comparison with a standard Marketed Preparation

• Evaluation of the cream using HPTLC

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SELECTION OF HERBS/ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

• The following active ingredients were selected based on there skin rejuvenating properties :

• Glycerrhiza• Green Tea Extract• Aloe Extract• Jojoba Oil• Curcuma Longa Extract• Vitamin C

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GLYCERRHIZA

• Licorice root has been used in skin care for millennia. According to the National Cancer Institute it has "potential anti-inflammatory, antioxidant activities.“

• Licochalcone is a molecule contained in licorice root extract which helps control oil production, and helps calm and soothe acne-prone skin.

• It is suitable for sensitive skin, and imparts a natural glow to the skin.

• The major bioactive constituent is glycyrrhizin.

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GREEN TEA EXTRACT• The polyphenols found in tea mainly belong to the subtype called

catechins (about 25%). • Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching free

radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. • Since exposure to sunlight is a major factor that ages the skin, green tea

cream could help prevent premature aging.• Green tea constituents may be useful topically for promoting skin

regeneration & wound healing.• The major active ingredients are epicatchecin, epigallectin,

gallactocatchecin etc.

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CURCUMA LONGA EXTRACT Curcumin protects skin by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation through nuclear factor-

KB inhibition. Curcumin treatment also reduced wound-healing time, improved collagen deposition and increased fibroblast and vascular density

Tetra Hydro Curcuminoids are colorless compounds present in turmeric that might have antioxidant and skin-lightening properties

Turmeric acts as a free radical scavenger and antioxidant, inhibiting lipid peroxidation and oxidative DNA damage. Hence helps in restoration of youthful and glowing skin

VITAMIN C

Also known as ascorbic acid, is key to the production of collagen, a protein that aids in the growth of cells and blood vessels and gives skin its firmness and strength

It is a potent anti-oxidant and hence scavenges free radicals which are responsible for fecilitating the process of aging

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Aloe Vera Aloevera increases the activity of the fibroblasts in the tissues so the fibroblasts produce

more collagen and elastin fibers and that reduces wrinkling. Aloe is also active against skin infections and is effective in treatment of acne. It is an excellent skin moisturizer that keeps the skin increases the strength and synthesis of

skin tissue. The active ingredients include alloin, aloe-emodin etc

Jojoba Oil Its excellent inherent emollient and moisturizing properties – coupled to its oxidative stability

properties make it one of the world’s top lipid (oil) cosmetic ingredients.

Jojoba can be heated to 370°C over a 96-hour period without displaying degradation in general composition and carbon chain length.

In addition to thermal stability jojoba also has unsurpassed oxidative stability.

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HPTLC Silica gel F-60-254 (10x10cm) plate with 200 µm thickness was used. A sample volume of 5 µl was loaded on a plate of 5 mm band with automatic applicator. Development of plate was done in 10X10 cm twin trough chamber, saturated for 30 min. Slit Dimensions – 1x4 mm & 40 mm/sec scanning speed. A distance of 60 mm from lower edge of the plate was used for development.

HPTLC ANALYSIS OF HERBAL EXTRACTS

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Herbal Extract Solvent Mobile Phase Wavelength

Glycerrhiza Extract

Green Tea Extract

Turmeric Extract

Aloe Extract

Jojoba Extract

70% Methanol

70% Methanol

Methanol

Chloroform

Hexane

chloroform-methanol-water (6.5 :3.6 :0.75)

toluene, acetone, formic acid (9:9:2)

Chloroform : Methanol(9.25:0.75)

Chloroform: Ethyl Acetate (7.5:2.5)

Hexane: Ethyl Acetate (9:1)

254 nm

285 nm

430 nm

260 nm

280 nm

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Preparation of Cream Base

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Oil Phase Ingredients

Trial-1 Trial-2 Trial3 Properties

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl MonostearateCetyl AlcoholCocoa Butter

Jojoba OilMineral OilIsopropyl MyristateLanolinLavender Oil

4%

2%

--

2%4%1%

1%qs

3%

2%

1.5%1%

1%4%1%

-qs

3 %

1.5%

1%1 %

1%3%1%

1% qs

Emollient & smoothening

Self Emulsifying Wax

HumectantMoisturizing & emollient

Active IngredientOil phaseAbsorption Enhancer& EmulsifierMoisturizingPerfume

FORMULATION OIL PHASE

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Water Phase Ingredients

Trial -1 Percent

Trial -2Percent

Trial –3Percent

Properties

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Allantoin

PEG 400Tri-ethanolamine

Methyl ParabenAloe ExtractAscorbic AcidGreen Tea ExtractTurmeric ExtractGlycerrhiza Extract

3%

1%-

-

0.2%

0.1%5%1%1%0.5%1%

2%

2%0.5%

0.5%

0.2%

0.1%3%1%0.2%0.2%0.2%

2%

3%1%

1%

0.2%

0.1%4%1%0.5%0.2%0.5%

Aqueous Phase/Moisturizing

HumectantMoisturizing and Keratolytic

Thickening, Humectant

Emulsifyer & PH adjustment

PreservativeActive IngredientActive IngredientActive IngredientActive IngredientActive Ingredient

WATER PHASE

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PROCEDURE FOR FORMULATION

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EVALUATION

The evaluation parameters selected were spreadability, appearance, PH, viscosity and stability of herbal actives. The Himalaya anti-wrinkle and skin rejuvenating cream was considered as standard form comparison of PH and Viscosity.

The stability of the herbal active ingredients in the formulation was evaluated by HPTLC analysis of the formulation using specific chromatographic conditions for evaluation of specific individual herbs. (i.e the cream was run in different mobile phases for different herbs). The HPLTC profile of the cream was thus compared to the HPTLC profiles of the individual herbs to check for stability .

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Determination of pH:Accurately weighed 1 g. of the cream (standard as well as sample) was dispersed in10 ml. of water to determined the pH of the suspension at 27°C using digital pH meter. The PH of the formulated cream was found to 6.5 and the standard was 6.8 (both near to neutral)

Viscosity:The viscosity of formulated rejuvenating cream and the standard cream was measured by Brook field Viscometer using spindle 62 at 50 rpm. Viscosity determinations were performed at room temperature. The viscosity of both cream were similar – 27 and 25 thousand cps respectively)

Appearance:The appearance and colour of the cream was visually examined. It was found to be aesthetically acceptable. The cream showed a light yellow appearance due the presence of curcuma extract.

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Spreadability

Spreadability is a term expressed to denote the extent of area to which the topical application spreads on application to skin on the affected parts. For the determination of spreadability, excess of sample (3g) was applied in between two glass slides and was compressed to uniform thickness by placing 1000 g weight for 5 minute. Thereafter weight (50g) was added to the pan and the top plate was subjected to pull with the help of string attached to the hook. The time in which the upper glass slide moves the lower plate to cover a distance of 10 cm is noted. A shorter interval indicates better spreadability. (To be performed)

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FURTHER WORK PROPOSED

(1) HPTLC analysis of the herbal cream formulation for evaluating the stability of the herbal active ingredients.

(2) Evaluation of spreadability of the cream.

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THANK YOUTHANK YOU


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