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amsterdam

November 2014 Sawubona 83

.*=����+�*)<For all its casual style and cutting-edge galleries, Amsterdam owes its existence to something far less sexy: trade. For this was, first and foremost, a port city. The 17th century was a prosperous time for Holland: the “Golden Age” when the Dutch ruled the waves in trade and exploration, particularly to the Far East.

The wealth from those globe-trotting journeys can be seen in the impressive merchant houses lining the Canal District. These watery roadways that ferried ships and produce from far-off markets marked

their 400th anniversary last year and were inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2010. Wandering the canals can while away many a happy day in Amsterdam, or else hop on one of the cruises to admire this defining feature of the city.

If you’d like to delve deeper into local history, there’s no shortage of fine museums on offer. The Amsterdam Museum tells the city’s story in great depth, but you’ll find more of the romance of exploration at the Het Scheepvaart maritime museum near the Centraal Station.

The Golden Age also gave rise

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With centuries of history to explore, Richard Holmes sets out to find the old and new faces of Amsterdam

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to the delightful neighbourhood of Jordaan, where cobbled streets and cosy bars offer a taste of local Amsterdam life. Rembrandt lived his last years here and is buried in the Westerkerk church on the fringes of the suburb. On the Prinsengracht Canal you’ll also find the famous Anne Frank House, where the young Jewish diarist and her family went into hiding during the Holocaust of World War II.

If you plan to visit a number of museums, the I amsterdam card is worth buying. It includes free or discounted entrance to most major attractions, as well as unlimited use of public transport and a free canal cruise. The 2014 card is available for 24 hours (€47), 48 hours (€57) or 72 hours (€67).

.*=����+���While Amsterdam’s historic canals define the city for most visitors, it’s certainly not resting on its watery laurels. While retaining its relaxed charm, it’s constantly reinventing itself and the northern fringes of the central area are home to some exciting developments. The revamped Municipal Library and Courts of Justice near Centraal Station are both open for visitors to enjoy.

Then take a free ferry across to Noord Amsterdam, where you’ll find the striking EYE Film Museum. Aside

from its galleries and theatres, it has a restaurant offering great city views and well-priced meals.

Amsterdam’s two most famous museums have also recently reopened after major renovations. The Van Gogh Museum houses the world’s largest collection of works by Vincent van Gogh and a €20 million revamp has transformed the visitor experience. A striking new entrance that will add 800m² to the museum is also under construction, due to be unveiled in mid-2015.

Further up the Museumplein, the Rijksmuseum has reopened after a 10-year renovation that transformed this once dour landmark into a bright, airy and easy-to-navigate space.

.*=����+�9*��*�<As with so many trading ports, Amsterdam is a multi-layered merging of cultures that have sailed through the city over the centuries. And nowhere is the proverbial melting pot more visible than on the city’s restaurant menus, where traditional Dutch dishes mingle with Asian influences and French techniques.

Blauw offers the modern face of Indonesian food in the city and is a fine choice for enjoying rijsttafel, a Dutch colonial interpretation of an Indonesian banquet.

Craft beers have become big business – try Troost or Brouwerij ’t IJ – and sustainable seasonal cuisine has taken hold, with the likes of chef Bas Wiegel at De Kas pioneering farm-to-fork dining off the restaurant’s own allotments outside the city. To the east of Amsterdam, Wilde Zwijnen is worth the journey for traditional seasonal dishes such as slow-cooked wild boar stew.

The collection of sculptures, artefacts and works by Dutch Old Masters makes the new museum well worth the €17,50 entrance fee. However, despite the renovations, you’ll still need to jostle to see Rembrandt’s masterpiece, The Night Watch.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Amsterdam is also home to a crop of new boutique hotels. The Sir Albert Hotel in trendy De Pijp was my home for a few days and combines minimalist Dutch style with a convenient location. If money’s no object, the new Waldorf Astoria on the Heerengracht is generating plenty of buzz, with the transformation of historic canal houses into a remarkable waterside hotel.

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Clockwise, from top: The Sir Albert Hotel in trendy De

Pijp. Self-Portrait by Vincent van

Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum. An Indonesian dinner buffet.

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.*=����+�9)�The delicate blue lines of Delft pottery are instantly recognisable, but Dutch design has moved on somewhat from the intricate artwork of the Golden Age. While the Dutch may be famous for their pragmatic, occasionally Calvinist approach, the city boasts plenty of wonderful design boutiques that reflect national thriftiness and creativity.

First stop should be &klevering in the north of the city. &K sells a wonderful range of designer home decor and accessories that make perfect gifts to take home. The feel is a little more cutting-edge, as well as a little more upmarket, at The Frozen

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USEFUL CONTACTS Amsterdam Museum: Amsterdamse Bos: www.amsterdamsebos.nl Blauw: Brouwerij ’t IJ: De Kas: www.restaurantdekas.nl

EYE Film Museum: Het Scheepvaart: I amsterdam card: www.iamsterdam.com &klevering: Moooi: Museumplein: Pols Potten: www.

Rijksmuseum: Sama Sebo: Sir Albert Hotel: Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art: The Frozen Fountain: Van Gogh Museum: www.vangoghmuseum.nl Waldorf Astoria: Wilde Zwijnen: http://wildezwijnen.com

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Fountain on the Prinsengracht, but the collection of designer furniture, textiles and upcycled products is no less fascinating.

There are dozens of other shops worth a visit: try the Mooois gallery for furniture, or Pols Potten for ceramics – but if your suitcase is already full, simply wander through the magnificent Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art. Set on the Museumplein, the permanent and revolving exhibitions will keep fans of design and decor engrossed for hours.

Clockwise, from top left: The

Prinsengracht by night is a magical prospect. There’s

no shortage of bikes near

Centraal Station. Holland’s flowers

are legendary and among its chief exports.

Modern Dutch cuisine at De Kas.

Dutch

RICH

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HOLM

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