Download - © Cognis Corporation 2001 “ It never hurts to look a little younger”

© Cognis Corporation 2001

“ It never hurts to look a little younger”


Presentation Outline

• AHCare Concept

• What’s known about AHAs

• Differentiation of AHCare

• Project status/Timelines

• Marketing concept


PRODUCT PERFORMANCE

Price Efficacy

Mildness

Performance


A) Blends

Source Cognis

Source

Source

Neostrata(Patent & Know How)

Customer(CosmeticCompany)

Personal Care & Skin Care Formulation

Marketing Concept AHC


10 % Addition

AHCare Premix Concept

Finished Formulation

6.5% AHC

Formulation

AHCare

(60/65% active)

in Water

+ Emollients

+ Thickener

+ Water

+ Perfume

+ Preservatives

+ Emulsifiers


Relationship to Neostrata

- License Agreement

- R+D Agreement

- Project Status


Alpha Hydroxy Acids

OH R = H: Glycolic

HOOC C* R R = CH3: LacticR = (CH2)5 CH3 :Hydroxy

H CaprylicR = CH COOH :Tartaric

OHPlus many others

*Alpha carbon atom


• Wrinkles

• Collagen Changes

• Cell Turnover

• Squamation

• Sebum Production

• Age Spots

• Dry Skin

Affected Skin Aging Symptoms


AHA Skin Irritation

1. Lower pH Formulation

2. Uncontrolled AHA Release, Penetration

3. Alkali in Partial Neutralization

4. Inherent Property of AHA

5. Inherent Skin Type


Disadvantage AHA’s

• Old

• “There is no Irritation Problem”

• Safety!?

• Sunscreens


AHAs - Summary

• AHAs Are Not New

• Long Recognized Benefits for Dry Skin

• Dramatic Benefits Beyond Moisturization

• Mechanism of Action Not Known

• Actions on Stratum Corneum Can Explain Main Clinical Effects

• Safe Natural Ingredients


The Time Machine for the Skin


Signs of Agingin women 35-50 years of age

45%

23%

13%

10%

5%

Wrinkles around eyes

Lost skin firmness

Change in skin tone

Loose skin around eyes

Wrinkles on forehead

Source: Gallup for Oil of Olay


Neostrata Project Product Names

“AHCare”

“AHC”

(Ampho Hydroxy Complex)


Tasks AHCare Project

1 - Prove Superiority of AHC (11/99-02/00).

2 - Develop Standard Products (8/99-2/00).

3 - Generate Marketing Arguments (11/99-12/00).

4 - Start Market Introduction (5/00)

5 - Develop Further Products (5/00/-…)


Amphoteric System

Arginine H2N – C – NH –-CH2 – CH2 – CH2 – C – COO

AHC COO NH2 = C – NH – CH2 – CH2 – CH2 – C – COO

CH3

Lactic Acid HO – C – COOH

H

NH2

H

NH3NH2

+-

HO – C – CH3

H

NH2

H

-

-

++

Glycolic Acid

H

HO – C – COOH

H

+

HO – C – CH3

H

COO-


• Prevents Exsiccation

• Protects by Low pH

• Anti-microbiological Properties

• Enzyme Coating

Hydrolipid Film


Sweat Sebum Keratinization

Lactic Acid +++

Fatty Acid ++

Amino Acids + +

Pyrrolidone ++Carbonic Acid

Urea (Carbamide) + +

Components of the Hydrolipid


AHCare

Ampho Hydroxy Complex

Arginine(Moisturizer)

AHA(Active)

Carbamide(Moisturizer)

Other Amino acids

(Moisturizer)


AHCare Status Testing

Neostrata/CognisCumulative irritation Glycolic solution: Irritation reduction

Sting test Lactic Acid: Significant irritation reduction

Sting test Glycolic: Significant irritation reduction

Cumulative irritation Glycolic cream: Irritation reduction

Cell turnover Strong Increase


Results for Facial Sting Study AHCare (high Arginine) vs.

20% Lactic/NH4OH Acid Neutralized, pH=3.5

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8

0.9

ArginineNH4OH

0.1

0.4

*0.8

10 seconds 2 minutes 5 minutes 8 minutes

0.1

0

*0.7

0

*0.5

Stin

g S

ensa

tion

Ave

rage

s

*Statistical Significance p<0.05


Results for Facial Sting StudyAHCare (high Arginine)

10% Glycolic/ Arginine, pH=3.5

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

AHCNH4OH

0.39

0.66

*1.458

10 seconds 2 minutes 5 minutes 8 minutes

0.62

0.47

*1.46

0.26

*1.06

Stin

g S

ensa

tion

Ave

rage

s

*Statistical Significance p<0.05


kinetics

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 160.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

AHC

AHA

Irritation Threshold

C

on

cen

tra

tion

Time (arb. units)


AHCare L 65 Cell Turnover Study

10%

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 140.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

AHCare.opj (G1)

Lactic AHCare Control

Flu

ores

cenc

e In

tens

ity (

arb.

uni

ts)

Day


Overview on targeted AHCare Effects

REDUCED IRRITATION

CELL TURNOVER

SKIN COLOR

MOISTURIZATIONSTRATUM CORNEUM

STRUCTURE

EPIDERMISTHICKENING

COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS

ANTI WRINKLE


How to MarketValue Proposition for Skin Care Customers

When you buy a AHCare skin care ingredient from Care Chemicals - you get all the following:

Example Cognis Product “AHCare G 60”

• A high quality skin care active ingredient controlled for both safety and efficacy.

• The product price includes a license fee that enables you to operate under Neostrata patents on a worldwide basis.

• Formulation support - including frame formula development vs. target, laboratory mixing procedures, stability data. This support includes technology to assure maximization of efficacy and minimization of irritation during formula evolution.

• Claims substantiation support. This includes test methods for both in-vitro and in-vivo methods.


Clinical effects

• Exfoliation

• Moisturization

• Reduced Appearance of Fine Lines and Wrinkles

• Skin “Plumping”

• Firmness

• Elasticity

• Even Skin Toning

• Synergies with Other Ingredients


Patented Claims

• Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles

• Signs of aging

• Dry Skin

• Age Spots

• Acne


Labels

• Mention Patent-number

• Co-labeling:– With AHCare– Contains AHC


AHCare

-Sellingpoints-• Efficacy

• Low irritation

• Technology Backup

• Patents

• New claims possible/synergies

• “Easy to handle” Products

• Affordable

Download - © Cognis Corporation 2001 “ It never hurts to look a little younger”

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