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King Island Revegetation Best Practice Notes February 2002 Written by Greening Australia (TAS)

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Page 1: Direct Seeding

King Island Revegetation

Best Practice Notes

February 2002

Written by Greening Australia (TAS)

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Published by:King Island Natural Resource Management Group

February 2002

Written by:Jonathon Duddles, Greening Australia (Tasmania)

Illustrations and Layout by:King Island Natural Resource Management Group or as acknowledged

Cover illustration: Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) seed capsules

Acknowledgements:Many members of the King Island community shared their knowledge and experience in revegetation gained over the past few years.

The following people provided information and reviewed and contributed to the text and layout: David Robertson, Helen Morgan, Kath Lynch and Russell Warman (King Island Natural Resource Management Group), Kevin Crouch (Reekara Landcare Group), Tim Parsons (Greening Australia (Tasmania)), Richard Barnes (Bushcare, Department of Primary Industries, Water and Environment), Dave Warne, (Greening Australia (Victoria)), Richard Weatherly, (Eco Tree Seeder Pty Ltd), Cate Lowry (Fine Print Publishing Services)

Funded by:The Federal Government’s Natural Heritage Trust Program , the King Island community and the King Island Council.

WarningAny instructions for herbicide and insecticide use expressed in this manual are a guide only. For specific pesticide information, contact the chemical manufacturer representative in your region; always adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions on containers.

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King Island RevegetationBest Practice Notes

February 2002

KIRDO Building, George St, Currie King Island PO Box 147 King Island 7256 Ph. (03) 6462 1825 or 6462 1709 Fax 6462 1790

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King Island Natural Resource Management Group and it’s projects are an initiative of the King Island communitySupported by the King Island Council and the Federal Government’s Natural Heritage Trust Fund

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Contents

INTRODUCTION 7WHY REVEGETATE ? 8

Shelter 8Biodiversity or habitat restoration 9Other reasons to revegetate 9Look after what you’ve got first 9

PLANNING FOR REVEGETATION 10Site selection 11Revegetation design 12Species selection 15Site preparation 17Finance 17

DIRECT SEED OR TUBESTOCK? 18Direct Seeding 18Tubestock planting 18

DIRECT SEEDING 19Timing for direct seeding 19Weed control 19Organising the seed 21Seed preparation 21Monitoring 22

TUBESTOCK PLANTING 23Timing for tubestock planting 23Organising plants 23Ground Preparation 24Weed control 24Planting 25After Planting 25Monitoring 25

MONITORING 26Record Sheet 26

SEED COLLECTION 27

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Source of Seed 27Collecting Your Own Seed 27Storing Seed 28Seed Treatment 28Growing tubestock plants from seed 28Propagation details for plants suitable for revegetation on King Island 28

SUMMARY 31Useful Resources 32

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IntroductionThis manual is a guide for revegetation on King Island. It takes into account the unique flora and conditions that occur here. It is a practical guide to the latest methods and species for revegetation on King Island.The manual is based on discussions with local people and field assessments of past revegetation activities on the island, and advice from revegetation practitioners in Victoria and Tasmania.The manual is to help you get the best results and most of all to encourage you to have a go.

o

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Look after the native vegetation you’ve

already got before you revegetate – It’s much easier, cheaper

and better than anything you might try to grow from scratch.

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Revegetation can improve production

and ecological values on King

Island

Why revegetate ?King Island supports a unique flora and fauna. This is due to its isolation from Tasmania and mainland Australia approximately 10-12,000 years ago. Since European settlement as much as 90% of the native vegetation on the island has been cleared or significantly modified through fire, agricultural and forestry activities. The protection and management of the native vegetation that remains is vital for the sustainable future of agriculture on the island and to ensure the future viability of the island’s unique native flora and fauna. Island flora is particularly vulnerable to extinction and lost species can never be replaced.By protecting the existing bush on farms, and replacing some of it when necessary, you may increase overall farm productivity. In areas that have been overcleared in the past revegetation can be useful to replace something of what has been lost and to improve production and ecological values.

Source: Woods and Forests. (unknown date).

Other benefits to revegetation include; increased natural biodiversity, erosion control for coastal areas

and river banks, improved water quality, salinity control, shade, farm forestry and aesthetics.

The main reasons for revegetation on King Island are shelter and habitat.

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ShelterOne of the main reasons to revegetate on King Island is for shelter. Good shelter can deliver huge economic benefits to a farming enterprise, particularly on an island in Bass Strait! Crop and pasture yields can be increased substantially by reducing wind damage and moisture loss. Well designed shelter can provide up to a 30% increase in pasture productivity (Bird et al). This improves livestock production as well as reducing stock stress and loss from exposure. According to Kevin Crouch, some farmers on King Island have found that even the moderate shelter provided by native tussock grasses (Poa species.) can reduce lambing mortality by 10%.

Biodiversity or habitat restorationAnother good reason for revegetation on King Island is to support and rebuild biodiversity that has been lost from areas of the island in the past. Biodiversity is the variety of plants and animals, and their interactions. The number and diversity of birds and insects in your bush is an indicator of the health of your system, and can help control pests on your farm. It has been shown that native birds control 50-70% of insects in healthy eucalypt woodland. Small birds such as wrens, honeyeaters and pardalotes carry out most of the insect predation. These birds need a healthy understorey and multiple levels of vegetation to survive.

Other bird species also need healthy layers of vegetation including mature eucalypts to survive.

Other reasons to revegetateThis manual focuses primarily on revegetation for shelter and for increased biodiversity purposes. Where revegetation is undertaken specifically for erosion control, salinity mitigation, or for farm forestry purposes, additional

information may be useful. This will help you make appropriate decisions about the design, species selection and techniques to be used. Refer to the list of Useful Books and Contacts at the end of the manual.

Look after what you’ve got firstRevegetation on King Island is an important activity but of course any existing native bush should be looked after first. It is nearly impossible for revegetation to replicate existing vegetation. It is expensive, time consuming and difficult to attempt to re-establish the bush (even as a shelterbelt) once it has been

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Remember that it is always more cost

effective to look after the bush you’ve got

than it is to re-establish native vegetation!

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cleared or degraded to the point where it is unlikely to recover naturally.Even remnants in poor condition are worth fencing first as they often provide shelter and biodiversity values in a shorter time frame than can be achieved by a revegetation project.Infill planting may occur if the natural regeneration of a fenced remnant is not occurring. It is important when doing this to plant

only species grown from seed collected in the area.A native vegetation management plan for your property is an important aspect of whole farm planning to help identify areas of existing bush requiring protection and management, as well as identifying areas that require revegetation.

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PLANNING FOR REVEGETATION

Planning is essential to a good revegetation project. The first step is to be clear about the purpose of your project. What do you want to achieve?Revegetation activities can have a number of aims. These will determine the revegetation design, species selection, site selection and establishment methods you might use.Revegetation projects can need up to two years of planning before planting or sowing. This involves planning, organising your plants or seed collection and site preparation. The following issues need to be considered when planning a revegetation project:

Site selection Revegetation design Species selection Site preparation – weed

management and fencing Timing Available funding

How Much ?Many factors can lead to failure in revegetation and you need to ensure you take every opportunity to maximize the chances for success.

Starting with small projects at first can build your confidence

and experience without expensive mistakes.

You do not have to plant out the whole property in one year – it’s can be better to spread your planned revegetation over several years doing a bit each year.

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Site selection

While site preparation, timing of revegetation and herbivore control are the main factors determining success of revegetation, it is also important to consider site selection in the planning stage.Some issues to consider when selecting a site for revegetation are:

Purpose of the revegetation project – shelter or habitat restoration.

Existing vegetation – exotic or native (weed competition, adding to natural biodiversity, potential for natural regeneration).

Exposure to strong winds. Exposure to frost. Soil type, depth and moisture

availability for seedlings. Position in landscape and slope

of the site (erosion potential, seed loss).

Previous land use, in particular the fertiliser history (fertilised sites favour weeds rather than natives).

Proximity to wallaby habitat (difficulty in managing wallaby browsing).

Existing infrastructure such as roads and powerlines (consider the safety impact on visibility near roads and avoid planting tall species under powerlines)

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The first step is to be clear about the purpose

of your project.What do you want to

achieve?

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Where possible select sites that are not too steep, have reasonable topsoil depth, have good moisture holding capacity and have manageable weed and wallaby issues. Depending on the purpose of the revegetation project it may not always be possible to select a site that has all of these conditions. It may be necessary to adopt certain techniques and management strategies to overcome the site constraints (for example erosion control matting on steep sites, wallaby fencing in highly susceptible areas, etc). The site selection will influence the choice of establishment method (ie direct seeding or tubestock planting).

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Revegetation designThe design of the revegetation project will depend largely on its desired function. Ideally a revegetation project should be designed to achieve multiple benefits. Shelterbelts are designed to protect stock and pasture from the stressful effects of wind and climate extremes.A sudden drop in temperature associated with strong winds and rain can result in major stock losses for landholders without access to good shelter, and hot dry winds can

dramatically stall pasture growth.Figure 1: shows the sort of gains and losses in pasture productivity generated on a paddock by shelter. (Garrett 1989)

Location for shelterThe majority of shelterbelts on the Island are orientated north south, providing the additional benefit of reduced shading in the winter. The beneficial effects of the shelterbelts at ground level reduce substantially at approximately 20 times the height of the shelterbelt (Figure 1). Shelterbelts should therefore be developed at no more than 20 times the height of the

shelter to achieve optimum shelter across the farm.Ideally a matrix of shelterbelts in both directions will provide protection from most wind directions and prevent wind tunnels being created. East west orientated shelterbelts on the north side of roads can result in excessive winter shade, causing roads to remain wet for extended periods of time.

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The minimum recommended

width for planted shelterbelts on King Island is 20 metres

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Size and ShapeDesign for shelterbelts can be quite different to planting a large block of native vegetation in the landscape for the re-establishment of an ecosystem. The desired objective of the revegetation will dictate the size and shape of the project site as well as the sort of species you plant within it. ShelterbeltsIn practice, farm shelterbelts tend to be long rectangular blocks along existing fence lines. Ensuring as wide a block as possible can increase success of the project. Long narrow shapes are more subject to what is called “edge effects”; they suffer a higher amount of exposure to wind and salt, a greater risk of damage by stock and a greater risk of weed invasion. As a result they tend to be less viable in the long term. Diversity of woodland and ground dwelling birds is greater in wider strips of vegetation (more than 50 metres wide).Compact shapes are better than long thin strips because they have a bigger area in the middle and are not all edges, thus reducing the ‘edge effects’. The minimum recommended width for shelterbelts on King Island is 20 metres, although 30 to 50 metres wide is preferable for shelter, biodiversity values, and more efficient use of fencing.

Figure 2: Vegetation on King Island does much better in thick belts and blocks. Hardier species on the outside such as paperbark protect more fragile plants such as gums, wattles and ferns from wind and salt.Many of the early shelterbelts on King Island were between 5-10 metres wide. With time landholders found that these shelterbelts were too narrow. It became evident that these narrow shelterbelts were not viable into the future as tree losses created large gaps in the shelterbelt. Many of the experienced revegetators on the Island are now widening their shelterbelts to between 20 and 30 metres. Habitat RestorationWhere the main objective is to restore habitat the following points should be considered:

The bigger it is the better. (Aim for at least 4 ha)

Blockier rather than long and thin is better (a circle is the ideal shape but a square is good and practical to fence)

Connected to existing vegetation is better than being isolated (this builds on what is existing making the block effectively larger still)

While ‘wildlife corridors’ have in the past been recommended for biodiversity reasons, it is often more effective to revegetate around existing remnants, making them larger and buffering them. This helps to protect the remnant, allow it to naturally regenerate and reduces the edge effects.

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Figure 3: While the two blocks above both cover about the same area the long thin one has twice as much edge. The square block also has considerable area away from the edge which is where many plants and animals need to shelter away from edge effects.

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StructureThe structure of the planting will vary depending upon the aim of the project.ShelterbeltsA combination of canopy and understorey plants is required to achieve effective shelter. A foliage density of around 50% from the top to the bottom of the windbreak is the most effective. A minimum of five to seven rows, with low shrubs planted on the windward side, grading up to larger trees on the leeward side provide best shelter. Figure 3 highlights the effects of shelter on wind speed and pasture productivity.Habitat restorationWhere the primary objective for revegetation is habitat restoration, species should be selected to replicate the structure and species composition of the vegetation community being restored.

Figure 1: Effect of shelterbelts on windspeed. This diagram shows the effects of shelter on windspeed including the

detrimental effect of gaps in shelter. (Garrett 1989)

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Species selectionThe use of local native vegetation is highly recommended for all revegetation projects, whether the project purpose is for shelter or for habitat restoration.

The advantages of using local native species

The native vegetation on King Island is uniquely adapted to suit the environment. Local native species, rather than plants from other regions, states and countries, are better suited to the soil and rainfall patterns, frost regimes, insect populations, local animals, and other factors which affect the success of revegetation efforts.

The plants on the island tend to be quite different from those in Victoria and Tasmania, even though they may be the ‘same species’. King Island has been separated from other land masses for at least 10,000 years and its uniqueness of genetic stock is highly significant. It is important to retain and protect this genetic stock from ‘genetic pollution’. An obvious example is the difference between the King Island blue gums and Tasmanian and Victorian blue gums. The King Island blue gum is a highly valuable commercial species that needs to be protected from possible genetic pollution that may be caused through the introduction of blue gums from off the island.Select a combination of species providing a variety of heights, flowering times, and habitat values. A combination of canopy and understorey plants, with a range of species from different plant families will help re-create a healthy ecosystem to increase the likelihood

of long-term survival of your revegetation project. Try to choose species that will suit your soil type, climate, wind patterns, surrounding land use and those that grow together naturally. A good guide is the species in any adjoining bush.Where existing remnant vegetation is being extended, it is important to plant species that are in the remnant or likely to be found naturally in that remnant. The aim is to mimic the natural system and restore a mix of species that naturally grow together.It should be noted that restoration of habitats and ecosystems cannot be done easily within a short period of time. In many cases it is virtually impossible to recreate the system all in one go, encompassing canopy, midstorey and understorey species. Some species may only become established when the conditions are right for them to do so, particularly when planting into exposed sites with strong exotic pasture grasses. Therefore it may be important to revisit the site and add species later, rather than attempting to include all species in the first year. The forest and scrub communities on King Island are generally dominated by several species that are appropriate for initial planting.To work out a species list that would suit your project area and achieve your aims:

go to nearby remnant bush on a similar soil type and see what is there

refer to the many books available to help you identify plants, or else ask someone with experience in revegetation for assistance (refer to the list of books and

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contacts at the end of this manual).

use the following species lists based on the type of vegetation community trying to be established.

NoteThe following lists are intended as a guide only.Other local species that may be worth trying if they are appropriate to the site are included toward the end of the manual in the seed treatment section. Establishment indicates whether plants can be established by direct seeding or by tubestock planting.

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Eucalyptus-Melaleuca forestScientific name Common name Establishment

Trees Eucalyptus globulus Blue gum Seeded or plantedEucalyptus brookeriana

Seeded or planted

Eucalyptus viminalis

White gum Seeded or planted(drier or sandy sites)

Tall shrubs Melaleuca ericifolia Swamp paperbark Seeded or plantedAcacia melanoxylon Blackwood Seeded or plantedElaeocarpus reticulatus

Blueberry ash Planted later

Medium shrubs Acacia mucronata var. mucronata

Variable sallow wattle

Seeded or planted

Leptospermum scoparium

Manuka Seeded or planted

Understorey Carex appressa Tall sedge Seeded or plantedGahnia grandis Cutting grass Seeded or plantedPolystichum proliferum

Mother shield-fern

Planted later

King Island scrubScientific name Common name Establishment

Trees Eucalyptus viminalis

White gum Seeded or planted(drier or sandy sites)

Shrubs Banksia marginata Banksia Seeded or plantedAcacia mucronata var. mucronata

Variable sallow wattle

Seeded or planted

Leptospermum scoparium

Manuka Seeded or planted

Leptospermum glaucescens

Glaucous tea tree Seeded or planted

Understorey Lepidosperma longitudinale

Common sword sedge

Planted

Gahnia grandis Cutting grass Seeded or plantedCoastal scrub

Scientific name Common name EstablishmentTall shrubs Acacia melanoxylon Blackwood Seeded or planted

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Banksia marginata Banksia Seeded or plantedMedium shrubs Acacia sophorae Coast wattle Seeded or planted

Leptospermum scoparium

Manuka Seeded or planted

Leptospermum laevigatum

Coastal tea tree Seeded or planted

Understorey Cyathodes juniperina

Crimson berry Planted

Pteridium esculentum

Bracken Planted later

Site preparation Good site preparation is important to a successful revegetation project. It provides or enhances the conditions required to enable plants to germinate, develop strong roots and survive into the future. There are some essential elements of site preparation that are common to most methods of establishment.Weed control Studies and on ground experience have repeatedly shown that weeds reduce the growth and survival rates of revegetation. Weed control can be achieved through application of herbicides, mechanical or manual weed removal and mulching.

FencingAll revegetation projects are susceptible to grazing from stock or wildlife. With the substantial investment in a revegetation project it is essential to provide the site with

appropriate protection. Many options have been tried on King Island with varying degrees of success depending on the intensity of the problem.Fencing needs to be in place in time for planting although it can pay to leave a small section unfinished to allow vehicle access. A gate is also valuable for this purpose and for being able to remove any wayward stock.Planning for insect attackInsect attack on direct seeding is a potential problem to be planned for. By discussion with experienced seeders in your area try to gain an appreciation of potential risks and plan for these.

TimingThe timing for revegetation can significantly affect the success of the project. Critical factors that can be managed by good timing are: soil moisture, soil temperature and competition from weeds. The appropriate timing is also dependent on the method of vegetation establishment used. See direct seeding and planting sections for details.

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The most critical aspect of site

preparation is weed control. Weeds

compete with seeds and seedlings for

light, moisture and

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It is worthwhile to plan a timeline for the revegetation project and allow at least 12 months for site preparation, and seed collecting or planting.

FinanceIt is important to prepare a budget estimate for revegetation works and consider how the project will be funded. Do this before you begin so you know what you are getting yourself in for.Funding may be available externally from time to time such as through the King Island Devolved Grant..

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Direct Seed or Tubestock?Both direct seeding and tubestock planting have been carried out successfully on the Island. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages and the decision on which method to use will depend on the following issues: Size of the site (direct seeding is

very cost effective for revegetation on large sites).

Site topography (eg. steep sites may be difficult to direct seed).

Soil type (eg. direct seeding is not recommended for cracking clays).

Species selection (eg. hard to get seed might best be grown as tubestock ).

Existing vegetation (eg. tubestock planting is more appropriate for planting into existing native vegetation).

The use of one method does not exclude the use of the other. It may be appropriate to begin with direct seeding and later plant tubestock between the rows to increase the diversity, or fill in the gaps.

Direct SeedingDirect seeding is a method whereby native seed is directly sown at a prepared site. On King Island this is carried out using an Eco-Tree seeder designed specifically for sowing native seeds. The seed then germinates in the ground without the need for transplanting. This is an excellent technique for covering large areas in a mechanised way. For large-scale plantings the cost is generally lower than planting potted plants. Direct seeded plants are hardy and develop stronger root systems early. The random spacing and germination of plants can provide a more natural appearance than other establishment methods. Some of the limitations of direct seeding are that large quantities of seed are required; seedlings need to compete directly with weeds as soon as they germinate, and protection from wallabies and other herbivores is essential. The key to direct seeding is good site preparation particularly weed control and fencing.

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Large scale planting

Small scale planting

Organic weed control

Strong pasture weeds

Semi native areas

Direct seeding using a mechanical seeder

Direct seeding using hand broadcasting

Tube stock planting

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Tubestock plantingTubestock planting requires seeds to be germinated and potted on in a controlled environment, ready for planting out when they are large enough and hardy enough to survive the elements. Many people on the Island have had success with tubestock planting, although in the past many of the seedlings have been purchased from nurseries in

Tasmania and Victoria. As mentioned earlier it is highly recommended to use local native plants sourced from King Island. Nurseries on and off the island will generally grow King Island plants to order if they are provided with the seed.

The table here summarises the methods and suitability (from Furneaux Natural Resource Management 2001).

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Direct Seeding Timing for direct seedingGetting the timing right is important for a successful project.The recommended timing for direct seeding on King Island is spring. Spring is the optimum time for germination of native seed as well as the time that plants put on the most growth. The soil temperature is rising which is essential for germination but the water table is falling, so picking the perfect time for direct seeding is a fine art! Ideally the seeds germinate and the roots chase the falling water table to ensure deep root systems to allow the seedling to survive the dryer months.Direct seeding on King Island has taken place mostly in the spring, however some people have tried direct seeding in the winter and autumn. While the winter and autumn sites have had some success, there are more advantages in a spring planting. In autumn planting the seeds often do not germinate until spring anyway, by which time the weed free area that was prepared has gone and the competition for light, moisture and nutrients is fierce.A general rule of thumb is to sow as early as practical when the site is accessible (ie don’t get bogged or churn up the ground). In Reekara this has typically been early October. In the south of the Island where moisture remains longer in the heavier clay soils the timing might be later, and on the coast

where the sandy soils dry out quicker, it may be earlier.

Begin your revegetation planning in spring at least 12 months in advance of sowing for direct seeding projects.

This includes commencing site preparation (weed control, and fencing) and ordering seed or planning to collect seed.

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The recommended time for direct seeding

on King Island is spring

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Weed control Weed control is absolutely vital to direct seeding success. Timing is crucial, requiring forward planning to achieve adequate site preparation. The options are:Chemical methodsThree applications of a knockdown herbicide are recommended for direct seeding sites. Assuming the sowing is undertaken in spring as recommended above, the spray regime should begin 12 months in advance. A spring, autumn and spring spray regime will remove the majority of weed seed in the soil. Recommended rate for each application is 2-4 litres per hectare.Residual herbicides are generally not recommended for direct seeding sites on King Island, as they have not been found to improve the establishment result. Residual herbicides can especially be a problem in sandy soils where the residual can find its way into the trench line and restrict the germination of the native seedlings. There may be some specific weed species that require an application of residual herbicide.The area can be sprayed in a 1.5m wide strip or boom sprayed depending on the conditions. Where there are native grasses present, the spray should be restricted to a narrow strip along the planting rows.

Any recommendations for herbicide use expressed in this manual are presented as a guide only. For specific herbicide information, contact the chemical manufacturer representative in your region. Always adhere to the manufacturers instructions on containers.

Organic methodsWhile organic methods are rarely used for weed control at large direct seeding sites, they can be used with some success. Such methods include removal of weeds by rotary hoe, or scalping of the top soil with a grader.One on King Island achieved good plant establishment following a 12 month regime of rotary hoeing with no chemical sprays used at all. This site also had several native plants found invading the site that were not in the original seed mix. Often long lived seed such as native peas can remain viable in the soil for up to 50 to 100 years. Given the opportunity through disturbance of the site and removal of competing weeds these plants can germinate and greatly enhance the long term sustainability of the site. Follow up weed controlGood weed control prior to sowing will minimise the need for follow up weed control. However there are some options for follow up weed control if required.Herbicide overspraying is a controversial method of follow up weed control that involves overspraying germinated seedlings with a light application of Roundup in the winter when native seedlings are dormant. This method has been used by the Reekara Landcare Group, with disastrous results. Chemical oversprays are not recommended on King Island.Weeds along the edges of the tree line can be wick wiped with Glyphosate (3:1), but this is time consuming and tedious if there are kilometres of tree line. Another option is the use of a shielded spray using Glyphosate at 2 litres per hectare at the end of winter. The shield protects the native seedlings from being contacted by the herbicide.

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Trials in Victoria suggest that most follow up weed control is less effective than doing nothing (Weatherly 1993). The only method of weed control that was found to be more effective than doing nothing was hand pulling of weeds, which for direct seeding sites is usually impractical (Weatherly 1993).

FencingFencing must be erected prior to sowing to ensure that stock or other animals do not disturb the seed after sowing. The fence must be stock proof and in localities close to native bush, fencing must also be wallaby-proof. While a gate is useful for future access this is often the weak link in the system when it comes to protection from wallabies and other native browsers. The grazing issues and recommendations for control are provided below. WallabiesWallabies pose a serious threat to the establishment of native vegetation on King Island. The most effective method of control has been to fence them out of revegetation sites using a wallaby fence. While this requires a large investment upfront, it has proven to be the most effective method of controlling the wallaby grazing pressure on King Island.

Illustration: Greening Australia

The recommended fence is Ringlock 11/85/15, with a single strand of electric wire, with 10 metre spacing between posts. Wallaby fencing costs approximately $3500/km for materials.Other options for wallaby protection include; Electric ringlock 5/70/30

plus one live wire. This is generally only sufficient if other wallaby control measures are in place, or in areas where wallaby numbers are low.

Chicken wire can be used around individual plants but it is probably cheaper to use wallaby wire around the whole area.

Bags and stakes can be used around individual plants but this is only partially effective, as wallabies tend to pull the bags down. Given the high cost of bags and stakes it is often more cost effective to fence around the whole area.

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Tea-tree brush can be used successfully in small areas to protect tubestock plantings from wallaby damage.

StockAdequate protection must be provided to keep stock out of revegetation sites. The recommended minimum standard fence for protection of sites from stock is a 3-4 wire electric fence. The wallaby fence recommended above would be more than sufficient for stock.

InsectsSeeds and young seedlings are susceptible to insect attack and this needs to be considered in planning and implementing your seeding project..Red Legged EarthmiteFor protection from Red-legged Earthmite attack you can add Lemat (or other suitable product) to the Roundup when you do your weed control spraying. The rate is 100 ml per hectare. This gives three weeks minimum protection. A boom spray width around the perimeter of the revegetation project is also good protection. If you need to spray after direct seeding has been completed you can use a higher rate of Lemat or Supracide on the bare ground (ie 200 ml per hectare). FASTAC can also be used at 100ml per hectare and may give longer protection (@ $245 for 5 litres).Slugs and snailsBe on the lookout for slug and snail attack if prolonged wet weather sets in. They hide under the turned over soil and then nip out and decimate the emerging trees. Snail pellets will work - one pellet every 2 or 3 steps should do the trick. The pellets are toxic but animals can be saved if the blue pellets are ingested and

immediate veterinary attention is sought.AntsSometimes ants can be a problem by taking away the seed after direct seeding has taken place. You can try to alleviate this problem by adding one teaspoon of Magnesium Carbonate into the seed box on sowing. Mix in well with the seed. Insects, including ants find that the Magnesium Carbonate itches their joints on contact so they stay clear. Environmentally friendly and low cost! It is available at the chemist.

Organising the seedOrder seed or begin planning to collect seed at least 12 months in advanceRemember that local native seed is strongly recommended for direct seeding projects on King Island

Calculate your seed requirements and order it from a commercial seed collector or plan to collect your own seed.To calculate the amount of seed required first work out the area of your revegetation site in hectares. To determine the actual amount of seed required you will need to work out the total length of the seeding rows. This is typically about 3km of row to a hectare (rows are typically 3m apart. (400-500g/km of seeding row). The majority of direct seeding sites on King Island have had sowing rates of 1kg of seed per kilometre of row. More recent direct seeding sites on King Island have used 400-500gm/km of row. You should order your seed 12 months before you plan to sow the revegetation site (i.e. the previous spring). This is because the best time to collect seed is over spring and

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summer and commercial seed collectors need to know which species and how much they need to collect. If you wish to collect your own seed then you also need to consider your seed requirements at this time.Note that once you get your seed delivered you should keep it in a cool, dry, dark place, ideally in the refrigerator in a well sealed container.

Seed preparationBefore you sow you will need to prepare your seed. Correct preparation of seed is critical to good germination.The seed of some species will require treatment just prior to sowing (for example Acacia seeds require treatment with boiling water), then drying before mixing with the rest of the seed. Refer to the Seed section of the manual for a list of species detailing any special requirements for seed preparation. The seed mix will also need to be bulked before sowing, so that it can flow through the seeder freely and smoothly. Bulking agents used for this purpose include Barastoc Chicken Crumbles, Kitty litter, vermiculite, bran etc. The amount of bulking agent required depends on the flow rate of the seeder and the area to be sown. You should discuss the choice of bulking medium and the amount required with the seeding contractor.

MonitoringMonitor progress at your revegetation site and record your observations eg time of germination, insect problems, effects of weather. An example record sheet is included in the monitoring section of this manual. Monitoring your site helps you and others learn more about

revegetation, about what works and what doesn’t work under different conditions.

Troubleshooting If after the first growing season

nothing has happened. Don’t panic, keep looking, and do nothing. Wait at least 2 growing seasons before passing judgement. Many of the sites in the case studies had limited signs of success after the first year.

If seedlings germinated then died over the summer. Don’t panic, keep looking, and do nothing. There may still be seed that did not germinate in the first season.

If seedlings germinated then became out-competed with weeds. Wait for another growing season. If your problem weed is thistles, then the seedlings may beat the weeds, if it is clover or grass then it will be more difficult but still wait and see. If you decide to use herbicides then use a wick wiper or shield spray.

If a decision is made to try something active. Make sure you talk to someone with experience before you take any action. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket. Do it only on part of the site; if the approach doesn’t work you only lose part of the site. Another option is to plant with tubestock between the rows, leaving the direct seeded rows untouched as they may still recover. Always document what you do, so that others can learn from it.

Some options to try if no sign of seedlings at all after 2 years: over-spray weeds in winter with low dose of roundup; or try burning the site before the spring to stimulate germination of native seedlings

31

Correct preparation of seed is critical to good

germination

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Tubestock planting

Timing for tubestock plantingAs for all revegetation, the right timing can significantly affect the success of the project. The recommended timing for tubestock planting on King Island is late winter / early spring. A general rule of thumb is to plant as early as practical when the site is accessible. In the south of the Island, where moisture remains longer in the heavier clay soils, the timing might be later. On the coast where the sandy soils dry out quicker, it may be earlier. The aim is to plant when the ground is wet and cool to allow the plant to establish and grow roots down, following the lowering ground water into the summer. Planting in summer runs a high risk of tubestock death due to water and heat stress.

It is essential to begin your revegetation planning in spring at least 12 months in advance of planting tubestock. This lead time is required for seed collection from local native species and plant propagation.

Organising plantsIt is essential to consider your seedling requirements and how you are going to obtain them at least 12

and preferably 18 months prior to planting out. To work out the number of seedlings required first work out the area of your site in hectares. You will need about 1000 seedlings per hectare based on 3 x 3 metre spacing. The number of plants and spacing will vary depending on the objective of the revegetation project.You can collect your own seed or arrange for a commercial seed collector to collect and provide local provenance seed for propagation. The seed will generally need to be collected over the summer months at least 6 months prior to planting out.

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An advantage of using tubestock is that you need to collect much smaller quantities of seed.The propagation of plants will need to begin no later than the spring prior to planting (approximately 12 months prior to planting out). This can be done through the Understorey Network (see contact details later in manual) or through a nursery. Most nurseries in Tasmania are willing to propagate and grow plants using local seed if you provide them with the seed.KI Council Nursery has plant propagation facilities. Contact staff at the depot on 64621883 if you are interested.Note that some plant species which are slow to germinate may need to be grown for 12 months or more before planting. You need to factor this into the planning. It may be that some of the slower plants are planted out in the second year. The list of plants suitable for revegetation provided later in the manual indicates the time required from sowing in pots to planting out.

Ground PreparationExcept in soft sandy soils, most tubestock planting will benefit from some sort of ground preparation. Ripping and/or cultivation can improve water retention in the ground, help with weed control and substantially improve the ease of planting. Not only is the loose, friable planting bed easy to plant into but it allows the new seedling to quickly grow and establish roots in the first critical months.Generally deep ripping is undertaken on hard or heavy soils followed by some form of cultivation. On sandy soils some form of ploughing will suffice to prepare a good bed for planting.

Weed controlWeed control is vital to getting a good revegetation result. Weed control reduces potential competition for moisture, light and nutrients between the plants you are trying to grow and the weeds. Chemical methods

Weed control methods used for direct seeding with the mechanical tree seeder may be appropriate for tube stock planting, depending on the site, if broad scale weed control is required. However, for localised weed control in semi native areas or existing revegetation sites, other techniques are required. Other methods can include spot spraying at each planting spot.See the section on Chemical and organic weed control in Direct Seeding for more details.Organic methodsOrganic methods are especially recommended for planting into semi native areas or existing revegetation sites where broad scale weed control is not appropriate. Scalping by chipping with a mattock to a diameter of 1 metre at the time of planting will further assist long-term weed control. Organic methods are common for tubestock plantings and include localised methods such as scalping the topsoil to remove the weed seed bank prior to planting, or smothering the weed seed bank by using weed mats or mulch. These

33

Remember to try and source tubestock

grown from King Island seed. Collecting your

own seed and sending it to a nursery to be

grown for you can be a good option.

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methods have been very successful at some sites on the Island. A major advantage of using organic methods is that they tend to allow other native plants to regenerate and invade.FencingFencing must be erected prior to planting out to ensure that stock or other animals do not disturb the plants. The fence must be stock proof and in localities close to native bush, fencing must also be wallaby-proof. While a gate is useful for future access, this is often the weak link in the system when it comes to protection from wallabies and other native browsers. Allow at least 2 m between the fence and first row to

prevent stock browsing if not using any electric wires.Bags and stakes are only partially effective in protecting seedlings from wallabies, as they are able to pull the bags down. Given the high cost of bags and stakes and the amount of labour required, depending on the size of the revegetation site, consideration should be given to fencing the whole site with a wallaby–proof fence.Refer to the recommendations on fencing in the direct seeding section.

PlantingGetting your plants ready for plantingA lot of leaves are not always favorable, especially in windy conditions or on dry sites. If plants move excessively in the wind, it can result in damage to the root system, potentially causing a high plant mortality over a dry summer. Ideally the plant should have an equal ratio of root to shoot. If your pot is 125mm high the plant should be between 125mm and 200mm high. If your plants are taller than 300mm high, and it is a dry site, plants can be pruned, but do not remove more than 1/3 of the foliage. Pruning should be done a few weeks before planting out to reduce the shock to the plants. Note that pruning is not recommended for farm forestry plantings where a strong single stem is required. Liquid seaweed (Seasol), applied to the seedlings prior to planting out, has been found to be beneficial to reduce transplant shock, increase frost resistance and improve root development.How to plantPlant into prepared sites using a spade, Hamilton planter or pot pouki gun. Be sure to press the soil around the plant’s roots with a mallet or your foot to remove air pockets. Make sure all the rootball is well covered with soil – it’s better to cover a few centimeters of the stem then to leave the potting mix exposed.Watering helps to reduce air pockets.Protect seedlings with bags and stakes if plants are in a location exposed to the wind. (Sometimes a

34

Most tubestock planting will benefit from some sort of

ground preparation

Page 35: Direct Seeding

windbreak can be attached to an existing fence). Bags and stakes also provide some protection from wallaby grazing but see comments under fencing. It is a good idea to put holes in the bags to allow some wind to flow through. This reduces the likelihood of bags blowing away.

After Planting Give your revegetation project

time. If you are concerned talk to someone with experience before you take action. Replace losses as necessary and continue to control weeds and keep wallabies out. Record any replacement plantings.

Follow-up watering should not be necessary if ground preparation, weed control, and soil moisture at planting were right. Remember watering often

promotes weed growth and may not be necessary for the natives, but use your judgment on that.

Follow-up weed control is sometimes required. This is difficult and should be avoided by good weed control before planting. If the weeds are not causing any threat it is best to leave them, as your efforts are likely to result in other weeds colonising the area. A shielded sprayer or hand chipping can be used.

MonitoringMonitor progress at your revegetation site and record your observations, e.g. time of germination, insect problems, effects of weather. An example record sheet is included in the monitoring section of this manual. See the next page for details

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MonitoringMonitoring and recording progress at your revegetation site helps you improve on your early efforts and prevents you making the same mistake twice. It also helps you and others learn more about revegetation, about what works and what doesn’t work under different conditions.

Record SheetAttached at the back is a sample record sheet, which you can copy and use for your revegetation projects. Pages 1 and 2 are for recording

the details of the site and how revegetation was undertaken.

Page 3 is for recording how the site progresses over time, eg. germination after 6 months, how many seedlings survive after one year, which species have survived after one year or five years, any events that may affect survival and growth. You can fill in the date and any comments, monitoring results or measurements, or you can attach any more detailed results.

For measuring and recording useful information on survival and growth keep the following in mind.o Measurements should be

standard and repeatableo When you document

survival or growth, also document the method you used to estimate it.

o Locate the areas you are monitoring at a marked fence

post or some other feature that it is possible to relocate.

o Measure as many plots as you have time for but try to cover areas which encompass the variation within the site, including any areas where there seem to be differences.

The following are examples of techniques that you may like try. However they are only examples. You can develop your own method, as long as you record it somewhere and you use it as standard procedure.o Measuring germination Record number of

seedlings per metre; using a 1-metre long sample plot encompassing all rows across the width of the shelterbelt (record width and number of rows).

o Measuring number of tube stock seedlings alive.

Record number of seedlings alive in a 10-metre long sample plot including all rows across the width of the shelterbelt (record width and number of rows).

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Record species (alive and dead), if you want to find out if there are differences between species.

o Measuring number of seedlings alive after direct seeding

Record number of seedlings per meter; in a 10-metre long sample plot encompassing all rows across the width of the shelterbelt (record width and number of rows).

Record species (alive and dead), if you want to find out if there are differences between species.

o Measuring growth of seedlings

Record height of all seedlings, using a measuring stick, in a 10 metre long sample plot encompassing all rows across the width of the shelterbelt (record width and no of rows)

Record species (alive and dead), if you want to find out if there are differences between species.

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Seed CollectionSource of SeedThe use of local native seed will provide the best chance for successful revegetation. Importing seed or plants from other parts of Tasmania or Victoria of the same species, could lead to interbreeding with King Island plants, and this in turn could degrade the genetic history of the local vegetation of King Island. If seed or plants of the species you require are not available, then it would be best to substitute locally collected seed or plants of other available species, rather than use imported seed or plants. A list of species suitable for revegetation can be found later in this section.Seed can be collected locally yourself, or else purchased from a commercial seed collector. If seed is to be purchased from a commercial seed collector it is worthwhile putting in an advanced order to allow adequate time for local seed to be collected.

Collecting Your Own SeedWhen collecting seed for your own use: Ensure that seed is ripe

before collecting. Be careful to collect no

more than 20% of the seed from any one plant to ensure that some seed remains for the bush.

Try and collect seed from a number

of plants to allow genetic diversity.

Keep track of the date it was collected and where from for future identification.

If collecting on crown land or you are collecting from threatened species a permit is required from Department of Primary Industries, Water and Environment .

Only collect from natural populations, not from garden plants.

Keep in mind that your own revegetation projects will be providing seed in 5 to 10 years

The use of local native seed will provide a good

chance for successful

revegetation.

Page 39: Direct Seeding

time. Using only local indigenous species will maximise the value of farm revegetation sites as seed orchards in the future. Good records at planting time are essential for future seed collection from revegetation projects.

The Florabank (www.florabank.org.au) provides excellent information on seed collection, storage and handling. There are also several useful books that detail methods of seed collection and the best times for collecting certain species. A book list can be found toward the end of this manual.

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Storing SeedTips for storing seed that you have collected include: Clean seed as soon as possible.

Do not leave uncleaned collected plant material and seed in plastic bags, as they will go moldy very quickly.

Dry seed for extraction and in preparation for storage. Lay plant material out on tarps in a dry shed with good air flow.

Magnesium Carbonate sprinkled over the branches whilst seed is drying assists with insect control.

Thorough cleaning of seed to remove chaff prior to storage reduces the insect population and hence insect damage to seed.

Dichlorobenzene in the form of Perfumed Deodorant Blocks can be used for insect eradication. Leave one block in the jar for one month or so as this is long enough to kill any insects. Mothballs can also be used in the same manner but may not be as effective on species such as she-oaks.

When dry and extracted place seed in a sealed bag or jar with minimal air.

Store seed in a cool, dry, dark place with uniform or even temperature (ideally in the refrigerator)

Label each bag with species name, collectors name, place collected from, and date collected.

Seed TreatmentFor adequate germination, pre-treatment of seed is required for some species as follows. Murray Ralph’s ‘Growing Australian Native Plants from Seed’ book provides

good practical advice on seed treatment for a range of species (refer to the list of useful books).Wattles (Acacia spp.) and peas have hard seedcoats that allow the seed to be stored in the soil for a long time (up to 100 years for some species). In the natural environment fire is usually the factor that encourages germination. To simulate this natural process hot water treatment is required. There are several methods, but the easiest and safest method is to pour boiling water over the seed and allow the seeds to soak in the hot water for around 10 minutes. The temperature and time depends on the species so if unsure seek advice or err on the side of caution. Allow the seed to dry prior to sowing, otherwise the wet seed can clog the seed box on the mechanical tree seeder. The next section contains a list of local native species with details on seed pre-treatment.

Growing tubestock plants from seedOne advantage of growing tubestock plants over direct seeding is that seed goes much further. A higher strike rate can generally be achieved under nursery conditions than at a direct seeding site. This is particularly important for some species where the seed is difficult to collect, where there is limited access to mature plants, or where germination is sporadic.Locally sourced seed can be sent to established nurseries that have the experience, expertise, and equipment to propagate and look after seedlings until they are ready to plant out.

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There are some simple methods of growing tubestock plants from seed without the need for a glasshouse or other specialist equipment. A commitment to shade, water and tend the seedlings for several months is required but the results can be very rewarding. Advice on these methods can be obtained through Greening Australia or through the Understorey Network. The Understorey Network has recently produced a Guide to growing native plants in Tasmania, which gives some handy tips for growing tubestock plants from seed.

Propagation details for plants suitable for revegetation on King IslandBelow is a list of plants suitable for revegetation projects on King Island.

They are grouped into types of plants, i.e. trees shrubs grasses and so on. This list should be seen as options of species that can be used, and is not suggesting that all species are used. Try to use a few species from different layers within the vegetation community you are copying. Adding more seed and different species over time is also a good idea. Next to each plant are details on the pre-germination treatment required, the time from sowing the seed to when they are big enough to plant and the longevity of the seed where known. N/A means it has a long life span (greater than 10 years) if stored under ideal conditions. An explanation of the pre-germination treatments follows the list.

Common Name

Plant Name Pre germination treatment

Time from sowing seed to planting

Life of seed

TREESBlue gum Eucalyptus globulus None 4 months N/AManna gum Eucalyptus viminalis None 6 months N/ASwamp gum Eucalyptus brookeriana None 6 months N/ASHRUBS 5 – 8m HIGHBlackwood Acacia melanoxylon Hot water 4- 6

monthsN/A

Dogwood Pomaderris apetala Soaking over night hastens germination

4 –6 months

N/A

Scented paperbark

Melaleuca squarrosa None 4- 6 months

N/A

Silver Banksia marginata None 12 2 years

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Banksia monthsSwamp paperbark

Melaleuca ericifolia None 4- 6 months

N/A

Variable sallow wattle

Acacia mucronata Hot water 6 months N/A

MEDIUM SHRUBS 1. 5– 5m HIGHManuka Leptospermum

scoparium None 6 months N/A

Coast tea-tree

Leptospermum laevigatum

None 6 months N/A

Woolly tea-tree

Leptospermum lanigerum None 6 months N/A

Coastal wattle

Acacia sophorae Hot water 4 months N/A

Dolly bush Cassinia aculeata Needs light to germinate

6- 8 months

1 + years

Dusty daisy bush

Olearia phlogopappa Needs light to germinate

8- 12 months

1 year

Native currant

Coprosma quadrifida 12 months

Necklace sheoak

Allocasuarina monilifera none 8 –12 months

N/A

Prickly box Bursaria spinosa Cold stratification

12 – 18 months

Suspected of being short lived

Broad leaf hop bush

Dodonaea viscosa subsp. spatulata

Warm water

8 – 12 months

2-4 years

Common Name

Plant Name Pre germination treatment

Time from sowing seed to planting

Life of seed

Prickly moses Acacia verticillata Hot water 4 - 6 months N/ABulloak Allocasuarina

littoralisNone 6 months N/A

Sheoak Allocasuarina verticillata

None 4 months N/A

SMALL SHRUBS LESS THAN 1. 5m HIGHCommon Aotus

Aotus ericoides Hot water 8 – 10 months N/A

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Smooth parrot pea

Dillwynia glaberrima

Hot water 8 – 10 months N/A

Sweet wattle Acacia suaveolens Hot water 8 – 10 months N/APrickly beauty Pultenaea

juniperinaHot water 8 – 10 months N/A

Twiggy daisy bush

Olearia ramulosa Needs light to germinate

? 1 year

HERBS, ORCHIDS, LILIES AND CLIMBERSFlax lily Dianella tasmanica Soaking

over night hastens germination

8 – 10 months 5 years

Spreading flax lily

Dianella revoluta Soaking over night hastens germination

12 months 5 years

Buzzy Acaena novae-zelandiae

? ?

Climbing Clematis

Clematis aristata None, or cold stratification

8 – 12 months Suspected of being short lived

FERNS, RUSHES, GRASSES AND SEDGESCutting grass Gahnia grandis Very

difficult to germinate

Unknown Unknown

Knobby clubrush

Isolepis nodosa None 2 – 4 months ?

Thatch saw sedge

Gahnia radula ? ? ?

Coastal tussock

Poa poiformis None Unknown ?

Tussock grass Poa labillardierei None 2 – 4 months ?Various pre-germination treatments can be applied to achieve better seed germination rates. Cold stratification: plant the

seeds in a seedling punnet. Water well, place on a plastic tray (eg old meat tray) and then place in the fridge for 3-6 weeks. Put a notice on the fridge with

the date as a reminder. Check regularly and maintain moisture.

Boiling water treatment: pour boiling water over seeds and allow to soak overnight

Hot water: allow boiled water to cool ( 5-10) minutes, pour over seed and soak overnight.

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Warm water treatment: pour warm water over seeds and allow to soak overnight.

Light: some seeds require light to germinate. Cover sparsely with mix. Covering well will result in very poor germination.

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SummaryThe key considerations are:

Look after existing bush first. It is always more cost effective to look after the bush you’ve got than it is to re-establish native vegetation!

Be clear about purpose. The first step in revegetation planning is to be clear about the purpose of your project. What do you want to achieve?

Allow plenty of time – revegetation should be planned and implemented over at least twelve months and ideally over 18 – 24 months.

Start small. Starting with small projects and building up confidence and experience with time makes good sense.

Weed Control is absolutely critical. The most critical aspect of site preparation is weed control. Weeds compete with seeds and seedlings for light, moisture and nutrients.

Use King Island Native Seed. The use of local native seed will provide a good chance for successful revegetation. Try and source tubestock grown from King Island seed. Collecting your own seed and sending it to a nursery to be grown for you can be a good option.

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Useful ResourcesContactsContact Contact

detailsKing Island Natural Resource Management Group (King Island Council)

6462 1709PO Box 147 Currie

Bushcare Technical ExtensionDepartment of Primary Industries Water and Environment

6233 6556 .GPO Box 134 Hobart TAS 7001

Greening AustraliaBushcare Support

6223 637711 Albuera St Hobart 7000

Understorey Network

03 6399 3593www.understorey-network.org.auemail: [email protected]

Useful BooksSeed Collection and Growing PlantsGrowing Australian Native Plants from Seed - for revegetation, tree planting and direct seeding. By Murray Ralph, 1997. Published by Bushland Horticulture, PO Box 2546, Fitzroy, 3065ph (03) 9517 6773

A “must have” for anyone growing Tasmanian plants. Comprehensive yet to-the-point. (About $20)

Seed Collection of Australian Native Plants – for revegetation, tree planting and direct seeding. By Murray

Seed collection hints for each genus, with a calendar of

Ralph, 1993. Published by Bushland Horticulture, PO Box 2546, Fitzroy, 3065ph (03) 9517 6773

seed ripening times for most species. (About $20).

Guide to Growing Native Plants in Tasmania By Understorey Network, 2001.Published by Understorey Network, Tasmania.

A recent, comprehensive text on growing Tasmanian seed.

What Seed is That, A field guide to the identification, collection and germination of

Excellent sketches and propagation information

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native seed in South Australia By Neville Bonney. Published by Finsbury Press P/L Email [email protected] or [email protected]

for a range of genera that also occur in Tasmania

Revegetation and ManagementTasmanian Bushcare Toolkit 1999, DPIWE.$38.50 inc. postage and G.S.T. Ph: 6272 5526.

Excellent guide to managing the bush on your property.

Direct Seeding of Trees and Shrubs – a Manual for Australian Conditions by Greg Dalton, 1993. Published by Primary Industries (SA), Adelaide. Freecall 1800 356 446

A thorough but clear guide to direct seeding techniques.

Design Principles for Farm Forestry, 1997, Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation, ph. 06 272 4539 Email [email protected]

A handbook for farmers planting trees and farm plantations (approx $15)

Restoring Wetlands and Waterways – a Guide to Action, by Veronica Thorp. Published by the Tasmanian Environment Centre, 102 Bathurst St, Hobart. About $25.

A Tasmanian guide to restoration, habitat, construction etc. Excellent.

A Guide to Excellent

Riparian Vegetation and its Management, by Sarah Munks 1996. Published by the Dept of Primary Industry and Fisheries, Tas. (About $20 from DPIWE, ph: 6336 5405)

info on willow control, fencing, riparian plants, revegetation methods.

Revegetating with Native Grasses on Roadsides in Tasmania, by A. Zacharek 1993. Avail. from Greening Australia (ph: 6223 6377).

Excellent, not only for roadsides.

Planting Wetlands and Dams, by Nick Romanowski 1998, UNSW Press

Specifically for wetlands and dam plantings

Establishing Trees and Shrubs on Saline Seeps by Trevor Dooley, 1995 Primary Industries South Australia.

WeedsRoadside Weed Manual, 2nd Edition, 1997, Department of Transport, Tasmania.

Useful, slim volume with photos and control methods of common weeds.

Garden Plants Are Going Bush and Becoming Environmental Weeds. Pamphlet/poster available from Greening Australia

Excellent photos of most of the environmental weeds in Tasmania.

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and many councils.IdentificationA Guide to Flowers and Plants of Tasmania. By Launceston Field Naturalist Club, 1981. Published by Reed Books, Chatswood NSW (about $20 at most bookshops)

The common plants of Tasmania, with good photos, divided into habitats.

Plant Identikits – Rainforest Plants of Tasmania/ Alpine Wildflowers of Tasmania/ Woodland Wildflowers of Tasmania/ Orchids of Tasmania/ Wildflowers of Mt Wellington. By the Society for Growing Australian Plants (about $6ea from bookshops)

Great pocket guides with painted illustrations and useful info.

Native Trees of Tasmania. 1981, JB Kirkpatrick, Sue BackhousePublished by Pandani Press, 3 Petty St, West Hobart

Simple illustrated keys for common Tasmanian trees (about $20)

Native Trees and Shrubs of South-eastern Australia by Leon Costermans, 1986. Published by Rigby, NSW.

Excellent guide, with line drawings and photos, and the differences between species clearly pointed out.

A Field Key to The best

Tasmanian Species of Eucalypts, by Fred Duncan. Tasforests Vol.8, Dec. 1996 (journal put out by Forestry Tasmania). This whole journal issue is about eucalypts.

key and information on eucalypts, yet is hard to find.

Forest Trees of Tasmania, Field Guide, by Peter Naughton (ed) 1995. Free from Boral Timber.

Useful, detailed pocket guide (with very small writing!).

The Students’ Flora of Tasmania, Parts 1, 2, 3, 4A, 4B By Winifred CurtisPublished by St David’s Park Publishing, GPO Box 307C Hobart (About $20 each volume from many bookshops)

Detailed botanical keys and descriptions of all Tasmania’s “higher” plants (ie not mosses etc). Essential for the serious.

A Census of the Vascular Plants of Tasmania, 3rd ed 1999Edited by A. M. BuchananA Tasmanian Herbarium Occasional Publication No 6 (about $20 from the Herbarium – ph: 6226 2635).

A list of the current scientific names of all plants in Tasmania plus an index to the Students’ Flora.

Aquatic and Wetland Plants – a Field Guide for Non-Tropical

An excellent and informative start to

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Australia, 1998, by Nick Romanowski. Published by Uni NSW Press, Sydney. Available from many bookstores at the moment.

identifying those sedges and other wetland plants.

Common Grasses of Tasmania – An Agriculturalists GuideBy Peter Lane, Dennis Morris,

Sketches and descriptions of common native and introduced

Gillian ShannonPublished by the Tasmanian Environment Centre

grasses

Ferns and Allied Plants of Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia, 1994, B.D. Duncan and G. Isaac, Penguin Books

The best fern book for identification, although some names out-of-date.

Useful WebsitesWebsite Descriptio

nwww.understorey-network.org.au

Understorey Network web page including a database of propagation details for around 1000 native plants

www.florabank.org.a Anything

u you wanted to know about seed collection, storage, and handling.

www.bushcare.tas.gov.au

Bushcare Tasmania website

ReferencesBird, P.R., G.A. Kearney and D.W. Jowett. (1996). Trees and shrubs for South West Victoria, Agriculture Victoria, Technical Report Series No. 205Bird, P.R., J.J. Lynch and J.M. Obst. (unknown date). Effect of shelter on plant and animal production. Animal Production in Australia Vol 15.FNRM (Finders Natural Resource Management), (2001) Furneaux Revegetation InfoPac Garrett, B.K. (ed)(1989). Whole Farm Planning – Principles and Options. Department of

Conservation, Forests and Lands. Benalla,Victoria.Greening Australia (Victoria) (1999). South Western Victoria Revegetation Guide.Trees (1994). Financial Benefits of Farm Trees: A brief economic study of trees on four Victorian farms. Trees and Natural Resources. June 1994.Weatherly, R (1993). Herbicide Trials with the Eco Tree-Seeder, 1982-1993. Eco Tree Seeder Pty Ltd., Victoria.

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Weatherly, R. (2000). Shade and shelter for livestock production. Eco Tree Seeder Pty Ltd., Victoria.

Woods and Forests. (unknown date). Windbreaks and shelterbelts: A broad outline. Woods and Forests Native Plants. No 11 in a series Part 1.

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REVEGETATION RECORD SHEETSITE INFORMATIONPropertyLocalitySite nameObjectiveSite dimensions / areaPosition / terrain

SlopeSoil typeSoil pHSITE PREPARATION (weed control)VEGETATION PRIOR TO SITE PREPARATION(native / pasture / weeds)

Date Method Spray rate (if applicable)

VEGETATION PRIOR TO SOWING / PLANTING

TYPE OF FENCING AND REASON(wallaby / sheep / cattle)

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ESTABLISHMENTDate

Establishment by (self / name of contractor)

Direct seeding Tubestock PlantingSeed source Seedling source

Wt seed (kg) (species mix list attached)

Number of plants and Spacing (species list attached)

Wt bulking agentSowing rate

Soil moisture

Weather (prior to and on the day of establishment)

Comments

Attach Species List

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REVEGETATION MONITORINGDate Comment/ Measurement