““EFFECT OF STICH DENSITY ON EFFECT OF STICH DENSITY ON SEAM PERFORMANCE OF DENIM SEAM PERFORMANCE OF DENIM MEN’S WARE SUITING FABRIC”MEN’S WARE SUITING FABRIC”

PROJECT DEVELOPERSPROJECT DEVELOPERS

• SUHEF MOMIN : 06DTMX38• AMIT MAGDUM : 06DTMX32• VINAYAK KAMBLE : 06DTMX26• RAMDAS KAMATE : 06DTMX25• AMIR MUJAWAR : 06DTMX40

PROJECT GUIDE: Ms. PAVITRA SHYAM

GROUP MEMBERS:

PROJECT GOALPROJECT GOAL

Ultimate goal of project is to achieve optimum stitch density for the selected following types of seams by varying the three different stitch density

LITERATURE REVIEWLITERATURE REVIEWLITERATURE REVIEWLITERATURE REVIEW

• Man made textile in India (Jan 09)-Dr.Nemailal Tarafder, Rajib Karmarkar& Mithun Mondal.

• Stitches & Seams -Laing. R.M.

• A.S.T.M. Standerds-Dorkin & Chamberlain.

Sample Size: 300mm x 50mm

EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDUREEXPERIMENTAL PROCEDUREEXPERIMENTAL PROCEDUREEXPERIMENTAL PROCEDUREPURCHASE THE FABRIC

PHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRIC

SELECTING SEAMS & STITCH TYPE

PREPARE THE SAMPLES BY VARYING THE DIFFERENT STITCH DENSITY FOR DIFF. SEAMS

PERFORMING TESTING OF PREPARED SAMPLES

TAKING THE RESULT FROM TESTING

SELECTING THE OPTIMUM STITCH DENSITY FOR THE SEAM

FABRIC PARTICULARSFABRIC PARTICULARSFABRIC PARTICULARSFABRIC PARTICULARS

PERTICULARS LYCRA DENIM NORMAL DENIMEPI 75 95PPI 50 48WARP Ne 8 10WEFT Ne 15 20GSM 360 320

PHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRICPHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRICPHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRICPHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRIC

PHYSICAL TESTSLYCRA NORMAL

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

CRIMP (%) 20 28 13 19BENDING LENGTH ( cm) 2.7 3.7 3.1 3.3CREASE RECOVERY (o) 65 130 46 99FABRIC STRENGTH (kgf) 127.89 73.45 87.45 42.33FABRIC EXTENSION (mm)

70.28 106.44 39.61 46.00

• CRIMP (%) : Crimp Tester• BENDING LENGTH ( cm) : Stiffness Tester• CREASE RECOVERY : Crease Recovery Tester• WARP/WEFT COUNT (Ne) : Weight Balance• FABRIC & SEAM STRENGTH (kgf) : Instron (6556)

INSTRUMENT USED FOR TESTINGINSTRUMENT USED FOR TESTINGINSTRUMENT USED FOR TESTINGINSTRUMENT USED FOR TESTING

In sewing, a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching. there are various types of seams for e.g..

1) Superimposed Seam (SS)

2) Lapped Seam (LS)

3) Flat Seam (FS)

4) Bound Seams (BS)

SEAM:SEAM:SEAM:SEAM:

SELECTION OF SEAMSELECTION OF SEAM

• 1) Superimposed Seam (SS):1.1) SSa.

• 2) Lapped Seam (LS) 2.1) LSb.

2.2) LSc.

For This Project We Had Selected First Two Seams As These Seams Are Mostly Used In Denim

SUPERIMPOSED SEAM (SS)SUPERIMPOSED SEAM (SS)SUPERIMPOSED SEAM (SS)SUPERIMPOSED SEAM (SS)

• The superimposed seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of together. This is the one of the most recognized methods of seaming. The most basic superimposed seam is the SSa. One ply of fabric stacked upon another with thread stitching through all plies of fabric. SSa is used for in-seam in garment.

SSa

LAPPED SEAM (LS)LAPPED SEAM (LS)LAPPED SEAM (LS)LAPPED SEAM (LS)

• This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge.

USE OF LAPPED SEAMUSE OF LAPPED SEAMUSE OF LAPPED SEAMUSE OF LAPPED SEAM• Lapped seams are common when

working with leather and sewing over lay yokes seams on jeans.

LSb

LSc

LSb: Attaching overlay Yoke’s & patch pockets

LSc: In-seam in Jeans

In sewing, the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

STITCHSTITCHSTITCHSTITCH

• Lock Stitch• Over Edge stitch• Chain stitch

LOCK STITCHLOCK STITCHLOCK STITCHLOCK STITCH• The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper

and a lower. The upper thread runs from a spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to the machine, through a tension mechanism, a take-up arm, and finally through the hole in the needle. We are uses 3 different stitch density

STITCH DENSITY: 1) 2.5

2) 3.0

3) 3.5

SEAM TESTINGSEAM TESTING

SUPER IMPOSED SEAM

Seam Allowance both edge: 1cm

Grip : 5 cmGrip : 5 cm

Distance between 2 jaws : 20 cm

SEAM TESTINGSEAM TESTING

LAPPED SEAM

Seam Allowance both edge: 2cm

Grip : 5 cmGrip : 5 cm

Distance between 2 jaws : 20 cm

RESULTS OF SEAM TESTINGRESULTS OF SEAM TESTINGNORMAL DENIM :

WARP WAY WEFT WAYSeam Type

Stitch Density

Load (kgf)Extension

(mm)Load (kgf)

Extension (mm)

SSa2.5 52.59 37.87 35.07 35.3

3.0 53.58 37.28 45.78 41.82

3.5 55.9 37.36 46.71 42.91

LSb2.5 48.1 36.69 55.43 50.52

3.0 50.85 36.34 47.77 43.17

3.5 50.43 36.72 45.36 44.66

LSc2.5 63.4 36.0 71.38 55.41

3.0 65.69 36.04 59.63 49.91

3.5 70.29 36.99 70.42 51.96

RESULTS OF SEAM TESTINGRESULTS OF SEAM TESTINGLYCRA DENIM :WARP WAY WEFT WAY

Seam Type

Stitch Density

Load (kgf) Extension (mm)

Load (kgf) Extension (mm)

SSa 2.5 67.59 70.47 46.70 83.73

3.0 67.16 74.45 48.88 84.35

3.5 67.17 71.23 46.28 88.08

LSb 2.5 58.32 68.13 53.83 86.71

3.0 60.68 69.92 42.64 87.14

3.5 64.99 70.38 47.90 86.76

LSc 2.5 91.59 68.58 67.77 95.47

3.0 88.69 70.11 72.56 97.33

3.5 95.61 73.29 68.25 94.07

CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION

• FOR LYCRA-DENIM FABRIC.

1.SSA (warp):- 2.5

2.SSA (weft) :- 3.0

3.LSB (warp) :- 3.5

4.LSB (weft) :- 2.5

5.LSC (warp) :- 3.5

6.LSC (weft) :- 3.0

FOR NORMAL DENIM FABRIC

1. SSA (warp):-3.5

2. SSA (weft) :-3.5

3. LSB (warp) :-3.0

4. LSB (weft) :-3.0

5. LSC (warp) :- 3.5

6. LSC (weft) :-2.5

CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION

REFERENCEREFERENCE

• 1) Morris, P. A. and Brain, D. H., Seam Slippage, Clothing Res. J. 3, 135-144 (1975)

• 2) Shimazaki, K. and Lloyd, D. W., Opening Behavior of Lockstitch Seams in Woven Fabrics Under Cyclic Loading Conditions, Textile Res. J. 60, 654-662 (1990)

• 3) Annual Book of ASTM Standards, ASTM D 6193-97: Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams, pp. 909-1049; ASTM D 1682-64: Breaking Load and Elongation of Textile Fabrics, pp. 347-354; ASTM D 1683-81: Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics, pp. 355-361; American Society for Textile and Materials, Easton, PA, 1985

• 4) International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Volume 17, Numbers 3-4, March 2005, pp. 225-231

• 5) www.fibre2fashion.com• 6) www.thedenimloft.com• 7) www.fashion-era.com • 8) www.amefird.com

THANK YOUTHANK YOU

• Thank you one and all for your kind support and attention for our

presentations.

• We thank you for your valuable time.

• We also thank our professors for their valuable guidance throughout