december 2012 feast magazine

elaia & olio

MED GOES MODtower of tradition

CROQUEMBOUCHEpour like the pros

THE PERFECT MIX

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis feastSTL.com | deCember 2012 | Free

boozyhoLIday Cheer

2 feastSTL.com December 2012

2012 Schnucks

Our selection of specialty cheeses rivals any cheese shop. Stop by our Deli and youll find everything from award-winning American artisan cheeses to European classics. Create your own cheese plate or enjoy in your favorite recipes for tasteful holiday entertaining!

HeavenlySavor Specialty Cheeses!

When it means the most, come home to Schnucks for the holidays!

3Inspired Food Culture December 2012

2012 Schnucks

Our selection of specialty cheeses rivals any cheese shop. Stop by our Deli and youll find everything from award-winning American artisan cheeses to European classics. Create your own cheese plate or enjoy in your favorite recipes for tasteful holiday entertaining!

HeavenlySavor Specialty Cheeses!

When it means the most, come home to Schnucks for the holidays!


SOUTH COUNTY314-892-9002

OFALLON, MO636-978-3500

SOUTH SIDE314-968-5595

OFALLON, IL618-632-1700

DELLWOOD314-388-0200

ALTON618-462-9770

Daily 10-8

Sunday 12-5

EDINGTON features elaborate carvings, distinctive angles, and elegant curving lines.

ENTERTAIN YOUR GUESTS IN STYLE WITH OUR GREAT SELECTION OF DINING SETS AT SPECIAL HOLIDAY SAVINGS

JUST ARRIVED! ELEGANT DINING CHOICES

styledine instyle

MISSION HILLS creates a comfortable and inviting atmosphere.KENDALL offers classic Traditional styling and impeccable detailing.

6 feastSTL.com December 2012 %PGInspired Food Culture %MO %YEAR %PG feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

from the staff

| 10 | from the publisher Cheers to a happy holiday.

| 12 | feaststl.com Whats online this month.

| 14 | feast faVes Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

columNs| 26 | oNe oN oNe Explore the art of barbecue with Ronald Buechele.

| 28 | the mix The simple pleasure of a toddy.

| 30 | oN the shelf New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

DECEMBER 2012

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of A NEGRONI (P. 55) BY Jonathan Gayman

TABLE Of CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

sunday supper70

| 32 | mystery shopper Buy it and try it: Brussels sprout stalks.

| 34 | how to Make your own candy canes.

| 36 | tech school Succulent suckling pig.

| 38 | gadget a-go-go Put to the test: handheld milk frothers.

| 42 | meNu optioNs Tis the season for show- stopping Croquembouche.

| 82 | the last bite Matt Sorrell finds his sweet tooth at 1111 Mississippi.

rich with tradition

65

a better BARbuilding44double feature

..RVR.CTY RIVERCITY.COM

..RV..

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7Inspired Food Culture December 2012 %PGInspired Food Culture %MO %YEAR %PG feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR


from the staff

| 10 | from the publisher Cheers to a happy holiday.

| 12 | feaststl.com Whats online this month.

| 14 | feast faVes Inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

columNs| 26 | oNe oN oNe Explore the art of barbecue with Ronald Buechele.

| 28 | the mix The simple pleasure of a toddy.

| 30 | oN the shelf New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

DECEMBER 2012

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of A NEGRONI (P. 55) BY Jonathan Gayman

TABLE Of CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman

sunday supper70

| 32 | mystery shopper Buy it and try it: Brussels sprout stalks.

| 34 | how to Make your own candy canes.

| 36 | tech school Succulent suckling pig.

| 38 | gadget a-go-go Put to the test: handheld milk frothers.

| 42 | meNu optioNs Tis the season for show- stopping Croquembouche.

| 82 | the last bite Matt Sorrell finds his sweet tooth at 1111 Mississippi.

rich with tradition

65

a better BARbuilding44double feature


Volume 3 | Issue 12 | December 2012

Publisher and EditorCatherine Neville

Managing Editor, Print ContentBrandi Wills

Managing Editor, Digital ContentKristin Brashares

Art DirectorLisa Allen

Vice President of AdvertisingDonna Bischoff

Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler

Contributing WritersBrandon Chuang, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby

Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney

Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires

Contributing PhotographersJonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff

Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff

Contributing IllustratorDerek Bauman

Contact UsFeast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor

St. Louis, MO 63101feastSTL.com

Advertising InquiriesKelly Klein, [email protected]

[email protected]

DistributionTo distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please

contact Tom Livingston at [email protected].

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLCJennifer A. Wood, publisher

Magazine

Agnes Ross115 W. Gundlach St. 618-281-4327

Artistic Hair Design & Gift Shop237 N. Main St., 618-281-9799

Chateau La Vin119 S. Main St. 618-281-8117

Elements Off Main107 West Gundlach St. 618- 281-7846

Evalinas Antique Caf124A S. Main St. 618- 520-0569

Fabulous Finds315 N. Main St. 618-281-1954

Fashion Attic128 S. Main St. 618-281-7467

Gruchalas Restaurant210 S. Main St. 618-281-9901

Imos Pizza1450 Evergreen 618-281-5552

Joe Boccardis Ristorante117 S. Main St. 618-281-6700

Magnolia208 N. Main St. 618-281-8083

Our Coffee House Caf125 N. Rapp St. 618-281-4554

Reifschneiders Grill & Grape608 N. Main St. 618-281-2020

The Patina Pony113 W. Gundloch 618-281-7915

Tinys Pub & Grill602 N. Main St. 618-281-9977

Ultimate Tan & Nail111 W. Locust 618-281-4848

Vida Verde Studio Salon & Boutique127 N. Main St. 618-281-6767

Who Dats Cajun Food123 S. Main St. 618-281-2229

Main Street Shopping, Wine, & Dining GuideColumbia Illinois


Where you will find hospitality, warmth, charm, style and friendly faces!

Discover Historic Main StreetColumbia IllinoisExtended Holiday Business Hours:Thursdays - 8pm, or later

Sundays Noon - 4pm, or later

Visit ColumbiaIllinois.com

for upcoming event details.

618-281-2020608 North Main St.Columbia, IL 62236

www.grillandgrape.comDaily lunch and dinner specials

618-710-0200700 North State St.Freeburg, IL 62243

Large Outdoor Patio 11 Flat Screen TVs 12 Beers on Tap, Imported

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Gift CertificatesMake Great

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Offer expires 12/30/12

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618-281-6700www.joeboccardis.com

Closed Monday Tues.-Thurs. 2-9pm Fri.-Sat. Noon-10pm Sun. Noon-5pm119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL 618.281.8117

Great Wines, Specialty Beers,Spirits & Wine Accessories

chateaulavin.com

WINE SHOP,WINE GARDEN & TASTING BAR

10% OFFPURCHASE

Offer Expires 12/31/12

LARGE TWO-TOPPING PIZZA

$1395Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon

per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional.Not good with any other offer.

EXPIRES 12/31/121450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)

618-281-5552CARRY-OUT DINE-IN DELIVERY

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

113 W. Gundlach Columbia, IL 618.281.7915 thepat inapony.com

Unique Western Apparel and Decor... Crafted to LastSADDLE UP & SAVE FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

SAVE 10%with this ad

Offer expires 12.31.2012.Offer not valid on furniture.

Located in the Old Distillary

FREE GIFTLike us on Facebook for Sales,

Events & Much More!www.facebook.com/ar.agnesross

Located in The Old Distillery Center115 West Gundlach Street

618-281-4327

With any purchase over $25.

with this ad. Expires 12/31/12

TINYS PUB & GRILL602 N. Main St.

Columbia, IL 62236618-281-9977Grill open Sunday-Wednesday 11-8 pm

Thursday-Saturday 11-9 pmPub open til 1 am.

DAILY DRINK &

FOOD SPECIALS

$550 LUNCH SPECIALSaturday or Sunday 1-4pm

December 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23

Santa Hut at City Hall100 Block S. Main Street

Santain Columbia, IL

December 1 at 5pm LIGHTED CHRISTMAS PARADE

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS:

& Visit

10 feastSTL.com December 201210 feastSTL.com NOVEMBER 2012

PHOTO

GRAPHy by Jon

athan

Gayman

When we sat down to plan the December issue, managing editor brandi Wills and I threw around a bunch of ideas, but none of them stuck. Well, none of them stuck until we started chatting about her husbands

fascination with cocktails. Anthonys home bar could rival some professionals and that got us thinking: What does it take to

build a solid collection of spirits, mixers, garnishes, glassware and tools that gives you what you need to craft just about any

cocktail, but doesnt waste space or money? Mixologist Matt Sorrell was up to the investigative task and Im happy to present

our boozy double feature, building A better bar, on p. 44.

To round out this tipsy issue, we introduce you to baker Peter Rosciglione and his decadent cassata cake. Roscigliones family

has been baking traditional Sicilian pastries here in St. Louis for generations. And for our cooking feature, we reached out to

chef Erik Jacobs to devise a meal meant to keep you in the kitchen, happily cooking, baking, nibbling and sipping during a long,

cold winter day (p. 70). At the holidays its good to find quiet time to enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of serving a meal that

was leisurely braised for hours, and if you can snuggle up by the fire while you dine, all the better.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville [email protected]

Feast Your Eyes sat., Dec. 1, noon; Contemporary Art Museum st. louis

Enjoy a tasting prepared by chef Nick Hatfield of Food Outreach in

response to the exhibitions.

Taste of the NFLMon., Dec. 3, 6 to 9pm; st. louis Area Foodbank

$175, call Jane Corpora at 314.292.5764

Meet Rams players and enjoy food from some of St. Louis best

restaurants at Taste of the NFL. St. Louis Rams General Manager,

Les Snead, will be on hand as well. Proceeds benefit St. Louis

Area Foodbank.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Dec. 19, 6pm; schnucks Cooks Cooking school

$40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make a French meal of roasted rack of lamb,

potato-celeriac gratin and a towering Croquembouche.

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience Previewthu., Jan. 10, 6:30 to 8:30pm; schnucks Des Peres

$25, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Sample and purchase premier wines before theyre offered at the

Food & Wine Experience.

St. Louis Food & Wine Experience January 25 to 27; the Chase Park Plaza Hotel

Pricing varies, repstl.org/foodandwine

More than 700 premier wines, 90 exhibitors and culinary

demonstrations from acclaimed local and national celebrity chefs

make for a not-to-be-missed, weekend-long epicurean adventure

to benefit The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.

Baltic Odyssey Cruisesept. 3 to 13, 2013

314.968.9600, altairtravel.com

Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our

second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This years trip takes you

to Scandinavia, the worlds newest center of culinary innovation.

youll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day

stop in St. Petersburg.

FEAST EVENTS

FEEdbAck?

Jennifer Silverberg set up her lights and cameras in my dining room to shoot Sunday Supper (p. 70). After spending the day in the kitchen cooking and photographing Erik Jacobs recipes, we cozied up in front of the fireplace to feast on the delicious props.

pubLiShErS LETTEr


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The Feed Dine Out Dine In Drink Feast Events Multimedia

CONNECT WITH US

feastSTL.com

MULTImedIa How-To Video: Get behind the bar with Feast publisher Cat Neville and BCs Kitchens award-winning mixologist Justin Cardwell for a demo on two classic cocktails that you can easily mix up for guests or yourself. Plus, Cardwell walks you through a hot cocktail trend: dehydrating liqueurs (more on p. 60).

facebook.com/feastSTLScan this tag to like us

Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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ThE feed: GifT ideaS & GiVeawayS: Our 12 Days of Christmas Gift Guide is chock-full of great ideas for the food lovers in your life. If you happen to fall in love with the items as well, we have good news: you can enter to win them! Were launching a daily giveaway on Wed., Dec. 12 counting down to Christmas with a new gift every day. Visit feastSTL.com on Mon., Dec. 10, for entry details.

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SUBSCRiBe Now! Our award-winning enewsletter delivers the latest news on the St. Louis food scene, extra recipes, special events and more to your inbox every Tuesday. Sign up at feastSTL.com/site/newsletter or by scanning the tag at right.

BReaK oUT THe BUBBLy: Take Champagne beyond a simple New Years Eve toast with our tips for pairing it with everything from sushi to corn nuts and building a specially themed bar. Visit feastSTL.com on Tue., Dec. 4, for both!

ONLINE CONTENT

The Magazine


PHOTO

GRAPHy by Jon

athan

Gay

man

An Art Deco gas station and a 120-year-old two-family flat have been joined to create Elaia and Olio, ben Porembas new restaurant and wine bar. Olio beckons with a warm, edgy modernity, offering relaxed dining and over 150 wines from which to choose. Elaia is the concepts refined other half. With seating for fewer than 30, the intimate restaurant serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine that pulls from Porembas past but speaks to where food is today. Milky white bay scallop ceviche is plated with fresh chickpeas and green tomatoes. Poached eggs with sabayon are given a textural and visual pop with the addition of salmon roe. And in homage to Porembas mom, Rachel, who was also a chef, his chicken dish highlights her traditional ingredients apricot, pumpkin and preserved lemon prepared as a sous-vide-cooked roulade that is roasted before serving. Elaias wine list is extensive and unusual, and trust us when we say to try the wines from Lebanon. They have an earthy funk that pulls the foods Mediterranean flavors together perfectly. C.N.

1634 Tower Grove Ave., botanical Heights314.932.1088; elaiastl.com, oliostl.com

elaia and olio


St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

the civil lifes brown ale @ pastariawritten by Jennifer Johnson

Order a St. Louis beer in an italian restaurant? Absolutely, if its the Civil Life brewerys brown ale at Pastaria in Clayton. this medium-bodied beer is a splendid pair with the braised beef and a fine complement to the chile-flaked roasted brussels sprouts and crispy risotto balls. Pastaria offers casual conviviality, and the kitchen shows implicit respect for local foods with its simply prepared italy-inspired dishes. the student-dining-hall-meets-italian-open-air-bistro mix of diners offers guests an immediate understanding that the food will be rustic and familiar, much like a great beer. brown ale is chestnut to mahogany in color and moderately bodied with at least slight malt flavors and yeasty notes of citrus and spice from warm fermentation. its more robust by nature than most lagers. it can finish sweet or dry, and the Civil Lifes brown leans more toward bitter in its toasty-nuttiness and coffee and toffee notes with light hops of lemony florals. its solid structure and acidity ready the palate for the savory richness of Pastarias braised beef and the melt-in-your-mouth tender texture of this slow-cooked dish, pulling the sweet freshness of rosemary and thyme from the braising juices. this beer is a fantastic example of whats being produced by our regions numerous microbreweries.

7734 Forsyth blvd.,Clayton, 314.862.6603pastariastl.com

PHOtO

GrAPHy by Corey W

oodruff

Holiday Flower & Train Show

Come celebrate Merry Botanical Traditions at the Garden!

The annual Gardenland Express holiday flower and train show

returns to delight visitors of all ages with its animated G-scale

model trains and hundreds of traditional holiday plants.

For more information visit:

www.mobot.org

November 21 through January 1, 2013

Sponsorship support by: Central States Coca-Cola

Bottling Company and CBIZ & Mayer Hoffman

McCann P.C.

4344 Shaw Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63110 (314) 577-5100 www.mobot.org

GardenlandExpress


vanbuskirk artisanal chocolate bar

PHOTO

GRAPHy by Corey W

oodruff

Tis the season to indulge, and at Vanbuskirk Artisanal Chocolate bar, you can do just that. Food-centric truffles, hand-brewed coffee, small-batch cheeses, house-made ice cream, cocktails, wine and even cigars are on offer at this new Cottleville gathering place. With quality and creativity top of mind, the folks at Vanbuskirk source seasonal ingredients for their gorgeous truffles think cardamom and walnut, yuzu and ginger, or caramelized pear and goat cheese. Pair your truffles with a single-origin coffee brewed as an espresso or hand-brewed using your chosen method: Chemex, French press, beehouse or cold press. If youre seeking something with a different kind of kick, Vanbuskirks bartenders will mix a cocktail using their house-made chocolate syrup or pour you a craft beer, which would be delicious alongside a few of the great cheeses that are available, like Prairie Fruits Farms Little bloom or Moonglo. This cozy chocolate-shop-slash-bar is a sweet addition to St. Charles Countys growing food scene. C.N.

5326 Highway N, Cottleville, 314.229.7445vanbuskirkartisanal.com


christmas candies

| 1 | Fudge, $3.25 (-lb slab); Chefs Shoppe, 2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, chefsshoppe.com | 2 | Zetties Confections cashew brittle, $11.99 (8-oz box); The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com | 3 | Cherry cordials, $13.95 (8-oz box); Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co., multiple locations, chocolatechocolatechocolate.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

break out the bing Crosby, throw on your favorite ugly sweater and indulge in the best of holiday traditions: Christmas candy. These are just a few of our locally made favorites. B.W.

Mint-chocolate and pepperMint swirl fudGe

white chocolate-covered cashew brittle

cherry cordials

133 West Clinton PlaceSt. Louis, MO 63122

314-965-9005www.citizenkanes.com

Conveniently located in KirkwoodDinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

HOLIDAY GIFT CARDSNOW AVAILABLE

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18 feastSTL.com December 2012%PG feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR

nhb knife works

Photo

gra

Phy by J. Pollack

Photog

raph

y

written by Brandon Chuang

with phrases like Japanese imports and material costs that reach many thousands of dollars being thrown around, youd think that nate bonner was some kind of high-end, The Fast and the Furious-style mechanic. but bonner makes knives.

and not just any knives. with help from his artist friend, tom Stone, bonners nhb Knife works makes one-of-a-kind, completely from-scratch knives that utilize some jaw-dropping materials. with over a decade of whetstone and grinding experience, bonner hones the blades, and together with Stone, he creates handles made from things like snow fungus, morel mushrooms and shrimp.

though a bit secretive about the process, bonner notes that the pair have created a method that allows them to take unorthodox materials, harden them and then carve them like wood. their most recent exercise has them making handles out of recycled cutting boards that have been crystallized. they look like the cave in Superman, says bonner.

nhb Knife works can create custom designs, and its retail knives ($80-$280) will be available locally at bertarelli Cutlery.

nhbknifeworks.com

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO.

314-631-2440

DELIVERY IN ST. LOUIS METRO AREA, $20.00 "Kenrick's Gift Cards - An Extremely Tasteful Gift for the Holidays. Any Denomination Available"

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Joe the butcher says...Give the perfect Gift, the Perfect Steaks from...

Joe the butcher says...Give the perfect Gift, the Perfect Steaks from...


Give the gift of food

This Holiday Season, share the gift of foodwith over 30 of Saint Louis' best local restaurant!

www.SaintLouisOriginals.com (877) 229-7299


chefs shoppeTucked in the back of Chefs Shoppe, a 6,500-square-foot kitchen supply store in Edwardsville, is one hoppin popcorn factory. It churns out 65 fresh-popped flavors every day, including staples such as caramel, Cheddar and kettle corn as well as creative options like dill pickle, beer, strawberry cheesecake and mac n cheese. When owners Scott and Nancy Schneider expanded the store earlier this year, they wanted to add more than square footage to their business. Since they already catered to the foodie crowd, offering gourmet treats made perfect sense.

Grab a bag of your favorite flavor when you arrive and hit the aisles. With more space (and goods) than your typical specialty shop, the Schneiders have simplified the shopping process by color-coding their store. On the green wall youll find tools for working with fruits and vegetables, such as corers, peelers and slicers; the orange wall packs in the protein, with grilling supplies and egg and seafood accessories; the yellow wall holds all your utensil needs; and the blue wall is chock-full of baking gear, from cookie cutters and cupcake liners to pans and tins. Some people bake every day, and others only brave the task at holidays, so we try to carry the right pan for the right person, says Nancy Schneider. If plan to use your loaf pan once a year, well suggest a less expensive version and show you how to take good care of it so it lasts you year to year. But if youre going to use that pan on a regular basis, well set you up with a high-quality pan you can bang around the kitchen for a lifetime.

Dont leave without checking out the dip and bread mixes, bartending tools, and entertaining wares; everything you need to put on a swinging holiday soiree. And you might as well grab a few more bags of popcorn on your way out. It makes a great gift this time of year. B.W.

2320 Troy Road, Edwardsville, 618.659.9840chefsshoppe.com

PHOTO

GRAPHy By Corey Woodruff

| 1 |

| 1 | The word raclette refers to a classic Swiss dish as well as the grill used to cook it. you grill meats and vegetables on top, and then you place them in the pans with some cheese and pop them under the broiler, says Nancy Schneider. | 2 | Eucalyptus Stoneware bread bowls are perfect for holiday entertaining. Theyre made to go in the oven, and their ceramic bases stay hot while the outside edges are cool to the touch, says Schneider. As a bonus, theyre quite lovely on the table. | 3 | Emile Henry bakeware is beautifully designed so you can cook in it and immediately present it on the table, says Schneider. Plus, it cleans up incredibly easy. No more scrubbing pans until midnight after a dinner party.

Three holiday enTerTaining MusT-haves:

| 2 |

| 3 |


You can have a box delivered every week or every other week for as little as $25. We offer a variety of box sizes to choose from. For more details, please visit our website ConniesGreenGrocery.com.

Sign-Up today and enter the promo code to save $12 towards your registration fee.

Promo Code: Feast12

Offer Expires: December 31st, 2012

Organic Produce Delivered To Your Door

636.498.2500 ConniesGreenGrocery.com

Lasagna Recipe

To assemble, spread a small amount of tomato sauce on bottom of 9x13 baking dish. Arrange 5 noodles on top of sauce. Spread tomato sauce on top of noodles. Spread 1/4 of meat and mushroom mixture on top of sauce. Spread 1/4 amount of cheese mixture on top of meat. Spread 1/4 of Ricotta cheese on top of cheese mixture. Repeat 3 more times to make 4 layers.Cover with aluminum foil. Bake at 350 for 60 min.

- 1 QT sliced sauted mushrooms- 20 Lasagna Noodles cooked- 1 1/2LBS ricotta cheese-*3/4LBS grated provel cheese -*3/4LBS grated mozzarella cheese

- 2 LBS Ground Beef cooked- 1 Cup chopped onion- 1/4 Cup olive oil- 1 TBL spoon salt- 1 TSP pepper

-*1 Cup Romano cheese- 3 QTS prepared tomato sauce *Combine three cheese to make one mixture

2061 Zumbehl St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratell isristorante.com

17352 Manchester Rd. Wildwood 636.458.3200 BigChiefSTL.com

Hard to Find Impossible to ForgetSince 1929, Big Chief Roadhouse has been a landmark along the famed Route 66. Under new ownership, the restaurant has returned to its original glory. Providing the best in quality dining and entertainment, a visit to Big Chief will not soon be forgotten.

All Meats Smoked In-House Fresh From Scratch Dishes Family Friendly | Kids Game Room Private Banquet Room Personal and Corporate Catering

Wildwood 636.405.1100 Warson Woods 314.821.1000 BigBearGril l.com

Big Bear Grill Serving Lunch and Dinner Seven Days a Week

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Voted Best Fried Chicken Dinner 2012 in St. Louis

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belles of the bar

| 1 | Tilt chilling sphere, $17.99; soireehome.com | 2 | Tavolo King Cube ice tray, $8.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Kirby cordial glasses, $8.95 each; Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com | 4 | English mug with horn handle, $84; Byron Cade, 13474 Clayton Road, Clayton, byroncadegifts.com | 5 | Sheesham ice bucket, $198; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 6 | Olive picks, $1.25 each; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

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Bartending gear is a lot of fun to play with, but its design can often be a bit Plain-Jane. These barware beauties will bring a splash of style to your next cocktail party. To really up your game, turn to p. 44 for our double feature on home bartending. B.W.

| 1 |


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Catch our premier on "Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives": Monday December 10th 9pm Food Network

34 S. Old Orchard Webster Groves 314.968.0061 hwy61roadhouse.com

We sharpen

Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands.

Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.

Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi Saint Louis 314.664.4005 Bertarelli Cutlery @STLKNIVES

Family owned and operated since 1967. Knives Scissors

Garden tools Lawn mower blades

Old fashion rotary mowers And much much more

Fair Trade Coffee & Chocolate.

6271 Delmar Blvd. Delmar Loop 314.863.3723 137 W. Jefferson Ave. Kirkwood 314.909.9401 plowsharing.org

For over 27 years, Plowsharing Crafts has been St. Louis' source for Fair Trade coffee, chocolate and handcrafts.

We invite you to enjoy a great cup of coffee and experience a fine piece of chocolate while supporting small farmers around the world.

University City Holiday Hours: M-F 10-9, Sat. 10-5:30

Kirkwood Holiday Hours: M-F 10-8, Sat. 10-5:30

Plan Your Holiday Party Now

4426 Randall Place St. Louis 314.533.9830 bissellmansion.com

A Christmas Sleigh-ing Come celebrate your Christmas this year at the Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre as we try to unravel the truth behind the song, Grandma got Run Over by a Reindeer. Was it a reindeer? Or did someone want the old lady dead and just make it look like a reindeer accident? In all our years of doing murder mystery shows we have found, its never the reindeer!Help Fred Scrooge and Granny track down the killer in this interactive comedy/murder mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Ask for a starring role or just sit back and guess whodunit. Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN!

Call Today for Reservations! Open New Year's Eve


St. Charles, Missouri

HistoricMAIN STREET

Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays

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Kernel Daves Gourmet PophouseLittle Hills Wine Shop Second Floor

710 S Main Street, St. Charles Mo 63301 636.946.9165

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In May of 2000, Ron Buechele purchased the old Third District police station and turned it into Mad Art, a well-known art gallery and event space. Originally I wanted a gallery that would predominantly feature St. Louis artists, says Buechele. If I could find a way to pay for the gallery without taking commissions on art sales, I could exhibit a broader range of work. That gave way to using the space for private events, [and we]eventuallyoffered catering. This allowed the gallery to grow and survive. To this day we still take no commission on art sold. Buechele recently launched a lunch-only, takeout-only barbecue joint, Capitalist Pig, inside the gallery.

How did the Capitalist Pig concept develop? A little over a year ago we renovated the kitchen. I was thinking about ways to maximize revenue from it. What do St. Louisans love when it comes to food?Barbecue. St. Louis is said to consume more barbecue sauce per capita than any other city in the nation. Now, how can I make it different so that Im not just another guy with a smoker eating from the same pie? That was where the sustainability came in. You use only sustainably raised meats. Why? It should be important to everybody, but lets start with me. Loosely defined, heritage hogs are those relatively distinct breeds that were present and can be traced back to the period before industrial farming. It is these old breeds that we call heritage. My use of the term heritage refers not only to breed but also the way the animal was raised. Can you give us a hint as to whats in your dry rubs and brine? For the rubs, I borrowed extensively from my Sicilian and Latin heritage. The brisket rub uses several different types of dry chiles and a bit of coffee. The pork rub has a few surprises in it, like cardamom, coriander, juniper and epazote. The brine contains sweet tea. Its an extra step, but I believe its worth it. The chicken is brined as well and then wet-rubbed with Berber spices. How do you see food and art intersecting? Food and art bothfulfilla range of desires. Food fills physical hunger and stimulates usaesthetically. Art feeds the senses and stimulates academic discourse. Food and art can both be cheap, mass-produced, pedestrian, expensive, rarified or even entirely exclusive. The more I think about it, the more similarities I can find between the two. The necessity of food doesnt need defending, but there is a schism between individuals who consider art a basic human need and those who consider it superfluous. How is being in the food biz different from the art biz? Its not really. Whether its art or food, you are promoting and selling a one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted product to an audience who always thinks it should be cheaper than it actually is.

WRITTeN By Catherine Neville PhOTOgRAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

Chef and owner, Capitalist pig

2727 S. 12th St., Soulard314.772.1180capitalistpigbbq.com

Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Ronald Buechele.

ronald BueChele


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At one point in our history, not all drinks containing booze were referred to as cocktails. In fact, a cocktail was a certain type of drink. A toddy was also a certain type of drink but not a cocktail. Slings, fizzes, fixes, daisies and skins were drinks as well. Heres a breakdown of what each class of drink consisted of:

Toddy = water, booze, sugar, nutmegSkin = water, booze, sugar, lemon peelSling = booze, water, sugar, nutmeg, iceCoCkTail = booze, water, sugar, bitters, iceSmaSh = booze, water, sugar, mint, berries, iceJulep = booze, water, sugar, mint, iceSangaree = wine, water, sugar, ice

Fix = booze, sugar, water, lemon juice, seasonal fruit, iceSour = booze, sugar, water, lemon juice, icedaiSy = booze, lemon juice, orange cordial, simple syrup, iceFizz = booze, lemon juice, simple syrup, carbonated water, iceCollinS = more booze, lemon juice, simple syrup, carbonated water, ice riCkey = booze, lime juice, carbonated water, iceCobbler = booze, sugar, orange slices, berries, ice

To make this a little clearer, let me explain. A skin is a toddy with lemon peel and no nutmeg. A sling is a toddy with ice and more booze than water. A cocktail is a sling with bitters and no nutmeg. A smash is a Julep with less booze and berries. A fix is a sour with fruit added to it. A Collins is a larger fizz.

Booze, sugar and water. Thats it. Thats a toddy. This enormously popular drink was favored by our forefathers. Its incredibly simple because not many had access to the slew of liqueurs, fruits and other mixers we have at our disposal today. Also, it was viewed as medicine. Headache? Drink a toddy. Foot hurt? Drink a toddy. Wife complaining about things not getting done around the house? Get those done. Then drink a toddy.

The secret to a good toddy lies in its simplicity. First, decide whether you want it hot or cold. Yes, a toddy can be served cold. Boil your water or get it in the fridge to chill. If using boiling water for your toddy, make sure you serve the drink in a coffee mug or tempered glass. It will retain the heat better than a regular glass. Also, preheat your mug by filling it with hot water and letting it sit for minute or so.

Second, pick your base spirit. I prefer brown spirits like scotch, aged rum or cognac. The aging of those spirits adds a lot to the overall flavor of the drink. White spirits can be used, but Ive found those toddies to be OK at best. Theres a missing component to those, and I think its the barrel-aging.

Third, pick your sugar. Dont limit yourself to the plain white sugar. Try Demerara sugar. Its not as sweet as white sugar and adds more of a molasses flavor. Plus, when its diluted, it is a little creamier and heavier on the palate. Powdered sugar is awesome in toddies. It adds a flavor akin to cake icing. You can also use honey, agave syrup or maple syrup if you so choose. But, depending on to whom youre talking, they may disagree that the drink can be referred to as a toddy. If that happens, slap them and take their drink away. Once these decisions are made, the drink is easy as easy can get.

ToddyServes | 1 |

4 oz water, boiling or cold, divided 1 tsp sugar 2 oz spirit 1 whole nutmeg, for grating (use fresh-grated, not the granulated stuff)

| Preparation | Fill your glass with 2 oz water, hot or cold. Add your sugar and stir

to dissolve. How much you use is up to you.

I prefer about 1 tsp per serving. Once the

sugar is dissolved, add your spirit and the

rest of the water. Give it a quick stir, grate

some nutmeg on it and enjoy.

CoCkTail ClassifiCaTions

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders Guilds St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBGs MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

a Simple pleaSure STOrY AnD reCIPe BY Matt seiter PHOTOGrAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman


10 Clarkson Wilson Centre Chesterfield 636.728.1140 sarahscafestl.com

Stop in to see the newly expanded cake shopSarah's Cake Shop offers a wide variety of delicious treats daily in their Chesterfield location. Whether your looking for a custom cake for a special celebration or a small treat to bring a friend. Specializing in custom cakes, cupcakes, desserts and wedding cakes.

20%* off Holiday Order when you bring ad.*Not valid with any other coupon or discount. Discount up to $15.00. Valid thru December 31st. Offer not available on Wedding Cakes

Monday & Tuesday 8 a.m. 5 p.m.Wednesday-Saturday 8 a.m. 7 p.m.

Authentic chinese cuisine since 1979Mandarin House is a well-loved and respected Chinese restaurant in St. Louis. Since it's opening in 1979, Mandarin House has hosted numerous high-profile clients in their 10,600-square-foot, 430-seat restaurant and banquet room. Our banquet room and main dining room can be customized to fit many needs, and you will find that our menu and staff will cater to anything you might want. Call today for your holiday catering needs!Dine in, banquets, catering.

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STYLE: English Bitter (4.2% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., Tower Grove South, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com; $5 (16-oz draught)PAIrIngS: Warm pretzels Edam

Its always astonishing to see how much flavor Civil Life can pack into a beer thats only 4.2 percent abv.

Whats most impressive is that this beer is full-flavored while remaining light and refreshing. The British Bitter has a crisp malt body with a gentle hop bite.

STYLE: Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout (14.5% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $19.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIng: Chocolate cake Solo, as an aperitif

I do not say this lightly: Goose Island Bourbon County Stout may be the best beer ever made. Its a lush and decadent monster that beautifully melds every ingredient together to produce a beer that features the perfect notes of chocolate, vanilla, bourbon and coffee. It may be difficult to find, so if you see it, dont let it pass you by.

STYLE: American Double IPA (8.2% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Randalls Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIrIngS: Carne asada Sharp Cheddar I say that I like Double IPAs to have a light body that way you can really taste the hops. However, Maximus sticky body actually does a great job accentuating the beers hops, providing a viciously viscous, hoppy beer. It will stick to your ribs and maybe to your tongue. I like being proved wrong.

ProVEnAncE: Edinburgh, Scotland (43% abv)AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $28.99TrY IT: With your favorite tonic and a squeeze of lime

Scots have produced gin since the 1700s, and Edinburgh was the epicenter of that production.

Much like their friends in England, the Scots use local botanicals such as juniper, milk thistle, pine and heather to flavor their gin. Edinburgh Gin is a smooth, high-quality distillate. Juniper is the dominant botanical, but there are also strong notes of orange and lemon zest and a smooth, oily and slightly bitter finish.

ProVEnAncE: Scotland (40% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Randalls Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $109.99TrY IT: Neat, of course.

Many scotch fans focus their love on single malts, but blending the best single malts on the planet into one bottle would only lead to a world-class whiskey with even more complexity. This is what Johnnie Walker has been doing for centuries. The Gold label is a blend of more than 15 single malts, commonly 15 to 18 years old. The Gold was first produced in 1920 to celebrate 100 years of Johnnie Walker whiskeys. It is silky-smooth with a delicious honey-sweet finish and the trademark Walker smokiness.

ProVEnAncE: Iowa (40% abv)AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $39.99TrY IT: Neat or in your favorite Manhattan

The good folks in Templeton, Iowa, were making the most prized whiskey in the country during Prohibition. Al Capone and his gang made it famous all over the country. In 2006, production started again, based on the original Prohibition-era recipe, and now it is here in Missouri. With a mash bill of 90 percent rye grains, this is a spicy mouthful of whiskey, which makes it a fantastic cocktail component. Its notes of caramel, butterscotch and allspice make it equally amazing alone in a glass.

The Civil life Brewing Co.s BriTish BiTTer

goose island Beer Co.s BourBon CounTy sTouT

TempleTon rye

laguniTas Brewing Co.s maximus

Johnnie walker gold

edinBurgh gin

beer spiritsWrITTEn By Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

WrITTEn By Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

top DECEMBER pICKS


Provenance: Edna Valley, Calif.available at: Straubs, 211 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, straubs.com; $26.99Pairings: Winter bisque Glazed ham Gruyre Known for being a pioneer of the Rhone Rangers of California, John Alban has often been credited with bringing Viognier, a French grape, to California. Blends of bright tropical and stone fruits rounded out with layers of honeysuckle and sweet herbs make up both the stunning nose and the opulent palate of this wine. Its full body and creamy texture make it an exceptional selection for white-wine drinking during the colder red-wine-friendly months.

Provenance: Napa Valley, Calif.available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, 9755 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, wineandcheeseplace.com; $49.99Pairings: Grilled steak Venison Stilton

From first glance at the deep violet color of this California blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, its clear that youre in for an intense sensory experience. Aromas of dark berry and smoky tobacco hit long before the glass reaches your nose, and then rich flavors of plum and mocha fill your mouth. Given enough time to breathe after opening, this firmly tannic wine will transform into a complex ripe and spicy indulgence.

Provenance: Champagne, Franceavailable at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $46.99Pairings: Baked Brie Smoked fish Quiche

This growers Champagne is a traditional blend of 60 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir and 10 percent Pinot Meunier. A highly versatile bubbly, it showcases a wide range of flavors, from peach and apple notes to hints of vanilla and baked bread. Alone, the wine stays clean, crisp and classic, perfect for toasting and pre-dinner enjoyment. With food, its creamy and sometimes spicy qualities emerge.

%PGInspired Food Culture %MO %YEAR

AlbAn VIneyArds CentrAl CoAst VIognIer 2011

gAlAxy 2006

gonet-MedeVIlle trAdItIon brut, nV

wineWRITTeN By Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.


Stop by to pick up more delicious recipes featuring Brussels sprouts. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.check it out!

Feast extra

Brussels Sprout-Duck Confit PastaBy TrenT Thrun, Steven Becker Fine Dining

This elegant pasta entre with rich flavors and lush ingredients is perfect for a dinner party.

Serves | 8 |

16 Brussels sprouts 1 to 2 tsp olive oil 2 shallots, peeled and minced 12 oz shredded duck confit* cup dried cranberries

2 lbs tagliatelle cup dry white wine 3 cups chicken stock 2 tsp orange zest cup slivered almonds, roasted 2 cups shaved tomme de savoie*

| Preparation | Bring a large pot of water to boil. Blanch Brussels sprouts for 5 minutes. they will be tender and bright green. remove with a slotted spoon and shock them in a prepared ice bath. cut in half and set aside. Heat olive oil in a saut pan. Add the Brussels sprouts and turn carefully until golden-brown. Add

Deep in our primal hunter-gatherer genetic code, it seems we still harbor the desire to conquer the biggest and best to feed our clan. So there is a certain satisfaction in bringing home a fully loaded stalk of Brussels sprouts from the market. Looking like a tropical vegan croquembouche, a stalk of fresh Brussels sprouts is not only a visual treat but also a nutritional superfood.

WhaT Is IT?

Brussels sprouts are a member of the brassica family of vegetables, which includes mustards, crucifers and cabbages. the sprouts are buds of the Brassica oleracea plant and grow upward from a central stem. the taste of Brussels sprouts is milder than that of cabbage, and they have a dense, chewy texture. Modern strains have been engineered to reduce the bitterness that used to define this most maligned vegetable. Purchasing the sprouts still on the stalk does little to improve flavor, but the stalk does continue to give sprouts some nutrients after harvest and allow the sprouts to remain vibrant and fresh longer.

hoW Do I use IT?

if you serve your Brussels sprouts boiled to a mealy pulp like your parents did, then please, please, please pay attention. roasting, steaming and braising are much better methods for showcasing the nutty character of the Brussels sprouts. Or try leaving them raw and shaving them thinly for salads. Pairing sprouts with ingredients such as bacon or pancetta, gruyre, balsamic vinegar, or lemon lends support to the natural complexity of the sprout. remove them from the stalk by twisting, not by pulling. the stalk is generally inedible, so the less of it that remains on the sprout, the better and the less prep work you have to do.

written by Erik Jacobs PhotograPhy by Jennifer Silverberg

Meet: BruSSelS Sprout StalkS

shallots and continue cooking until translucent. Add shredded duck confit and dried cranberries.

While the duck mixture cooks, boil the pasta until al dente. When the duck mixture starts to crisp, deglaze the pan with wine. Add chicken stock and simmer until reduced by half. Add cooked tagliatelle, orange zest and almonds. Warm until just heated through. Divide pasta among 8 bowls and garnish with tomme de Savoie.

* Duck confit and Tomme de Savoie, an Alpine cheese, are both available at The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com.


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No More PlaiN CaNeNow that youve mastered the candy cane basics, try mixing in different flavors such as cinnamon or a touch of cayenne. And theres no limit to the number of colors you can use simply divvy up the initial candy mixture into however many colors you want and add distinct hues to each part before you combine them. The more, the merrier.

Make Candy Canes

Keep It SImpleCandy canes start out much like simple syrup. To begin, combine 3 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup light corn syrup and 1 cup water in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir continuously until the sugar dissolves. Stop stirring, place a candy thermometer into the pan and heat the mixture to 285F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 225F and apply nonstick spray to two baking sheets.

pour Some Sugar on meOnce the mixture has reached temperature, pour it onto one of the baking sheets. Cool the mixture for about 1 minute so that it becomes malleable. Add 1 Tbsp vanilla and 1 tsp peppermint extract. | 1 | Using a spatula or bakers blade the mixture will be too hot to touch fold the candy over itself until the flavorings are fully incorporated.

a touch of colorVery quickly, the mixture will begin to cool into a putty-like consistency. Separate the mixture into two equal parts. Place one part on the second baking sheet and keep it in the oven to maintain its malleability. To the other half, add 2 to 4 drops of red food coloring. Fold the mixture over itself until the color is fully incorporated.

the long Stretch| 2 | Put on two pairs of kitchen gloves (the candy is still extremely hot on the inside), and stretch out the red candy until its about three feet long. Bring the ends together and stretch it again. Continue stretching and folding until the candy takes on a ribbon-like sheen. Once complete, place the red candy in the oven and repeat with the noncolored candy. As you aerate the noncolored candy, it will turn white. Roll each pile of candy into a log roughly 1 inches in diameter. | 3 | Place the two logs side by side and roll them together into one large red-and-white log.

hooK emTwist and roll one end of the log to make a thinner linear section roughly -inch in diameter. The circular motion will create the barber pole stripe ubiquitous to candy canes. | 4 | Cut off an 8-inch length and bend one side to create the candy cane hook. Place on one of the baking pans and repeat with remaining candy. Wait for the whoas.

There are a multitude of reasons to make something from scratch better flavor, better quality, better presentation. But sometimes you make something from scratch because you want the whoa. It gives validation to your kitchen skills. In fact, the only thing more satisfying than the whoa is answering the question that always follows: Did you really make that from scratch? And the answer is always, Really, it was no big deal. To that end, this month were making candy canes yes, candy canes. Start practicing your humble face now because the season of whoa is upon you.

WRITTeN By Brandon chuang IllUSTRATION By Derek Bauman

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| 1 |

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Serves | 8 to 10 |

1 suckling pig (20 lbs is ideal) salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 heads garlic, peeled 4 onions, chopped 2 lemons, quartered 2 oranges, quartered 2 sprigs rosemary 2 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs oregano 1 small apple

| Preparation | Rinse the suckling pig under cold water and place on a sheet pan large enough to hold it. Season liberally with salt and pepper and place uncovered in the fridge overnight.

Preheat the oven to 275F. Season the inside cavity of the pig with salt and pepper and stuff with garlic, onion, lemons, oranges and herbs. Sew the cavity closed with a needle and kitchen twine. Place the pig, back side up, on the roasting pan with its arms and legs tucked under it. Season again with salt and pepper. Cover the

ears with aluminum foil and place a ball of aluminum foil in the pigs mouth.

Roast for 3 to 4 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 160F. Remove the foil from the ears and mouth. Replace the foil from the mouth with a small apple if youd like. Turn the oven temperature up as high as it will go around 500F is ideal. Return the pig to the oven and cook an additional 30 minutes or until the skin is crisp and crackling. The skin may start to split, which is OK. Remove from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes before serving. Remove the twine from the belly and serve whole with small tongs for guests to serve themselves.

Known by many names around the world

lechn, guling celeng, spanferkel, cochon de

lait many cultures feature suckling pig as

the traditional centerpiece of a holiday meal

or special celebration. The pig was one of the

first animals to be raised for food. It is only

natural that someone would come up with the

idea of cooking a young piglet for its tender,

delicious meat. And we should thank that

person because it was pure genius.

Suckling pig is a pig that is still fed on its

mothers milk. A true suckling pig should be

around 20 pounds and slaughtered between

2 and 6 weeks of age. Typically a pig up to 40

pounds is still considered a suckling pig as

long as the piglet remained on a liquid diet

and was slaughtered no later than 10 weeks.

Meat from larger piglets is still delicious

but not as tender or fatty. Younger pigs have

a lot of natural collagen in them, giving the

meat and pan drippings a gelatinous texture

and making the skin incredibly crispy and

crackled, which is a true treat.

Roasting a suckling pig is incredibly easy.

I would say foolproof, but then someone

would prove me wrong. Suckling pigs are

traditionally roasted on their bellies with

their arms and legs tucked under them for

maximum skin exposure. Have I mentioned

that the crispy skin is divine? The ears will

easily burn, so covering them with a little

foil is a good preventative measure. The

traditional apple in the mouth makes for

great presentation, but it also has important

purposes. The open mouth allows some of

the steam to escape from inside the pig. Also,

without something in the pigs mouth (a ball of

foil works fine), the face tends to droop in an

unpleasant way. If the roasted pig is going to

be a centerpiece, it should be beautiful.

The most difficult part is sourcing the pig.

Your best bet is to order one online from

a reputable source, but I would certainly

recommend checking with local farmers.

High-end butcher shops will also special-

order them, especially during the holidays.

Make sure you ask them to clean the pig.

This includes removing the entrails and

sometimes the eyes and thoroughly cleaning

the pig. After that, you just have to get over

how incredibly adorable your dinner is before

you cook it. The rest is gravy literally. The

pan drippings make the best gravy ever.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home

Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary

training in Houston and has a knack for

reimagining classic dishes.

STORY And ReCIPe bY Cassy Vires PHOTOgRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

Suckling Pig Suckling pig is such a wonderful treat and really simple to make. The key is the crackling, crisp skin, which will provide a wonderful crunch next to the juicy, tender meat. Serve as the centerpiece with a simple salad and sides

of roasted vegetables.

Suckling Pig

37Inspired Food Culture December 2012 %PGInspired Food Culture %MO %YEAR

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2012 Schnucks

Stir constantly about 13-16 minutes on medium heat. The mixture is ready when it can hold its shape on the back of a spoon.

Eggnog is made by cooking eggs, sugar and half-and-half.

Mix in remaining ingredients. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours before serving.

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at schnuckscooks.com. Youll also find a variety of

Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions.

At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! Youll find all the ingredients

and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

EggnogCreate your own eggnog, or stirred custard, this holiday season! Make everyones favorite holiday drink by watching our step-by-step how-to video and recipe online. Here are a few steps to get started.


AerolAtte HAndHeld Milk FrotHer

PROS Neither too heavy nor too light, the heft on this frother was just right for me. This upscale model features all stainless-steel construction, a sturdy shaft and frothing head, and an easy-to-remove-and-replace battery cap. Foams whip creamier, faster and higher in less time with the Aerolatte frothers.

CONSNo negatives on this zippy frother. A storage case would be a nice addition.

$19.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

GeFu GeniAl Geniessen Milk FrotHer

PROSThis compact, lightweight tool features a soft-touch coating on its handle that provides a secure, comfortable grip. A side switch clicks in easily and holds steady as it froths. The designers at Gefu put more wiggle in the shaft. It rotates in a tight circle to create creamy, smooth foam. Almond milk whipped creamiest with this frother. Batteries included.

CONSThe more flexible shaft is the shortest of the bunch, so gauge shaft length to mug size before you froth. The battery cover is easy to remove, but it takes some wrangling to to work it back on.

$19.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

BonJour CAF lAtte Milk FrotHer

PROSThis hefty frother sits pretty on the counter in a swirl of chrome. Park it next to your coffeemaker and froth away. Four batteries keep this baby purring through the milk as it expands to a fine creaminess for homemade lattes, cappuccinos and mochas. The frothing head, a tiny wave-like disc, differs significantly from the whisking heads, but it churns out impressive results. Theres an informative instruction book, with recipes included, in the box.

CONSFour batteries (which arent included) require a bigger handle, so check the grip before you buy. The switch, which is on top of the unit, doesnt lock in place. Keeping the button depressed can be hard on thumbs.

$21.95; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, terrastl.com

AerolAtte steAM Free Milk FrotHer

PROSThis lightweight frother whooshed skim milk and soy milk into thick, finely textured foam in a flash. Almond milk and whole milk frothed more halfheartedly with bigger bubbles but still made the prettiest cocoas and coffees. The plastic handles easy to grip and the on/off switch locks in place as it whirls. Comes with batteries, a plastic case for storage and an instruction sheet with simple recipes.

CONS The cover of the battery case skitters rather than slides back into place on this model, but its a small quibble, easily remedied with patience.

$19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

BoduM sCHiuMA Milk FrotHer

PROSWhen an extra-long shaft meets a small, tightly wound whisk head in this frother from the coffee mavens at Bodum, milks whip up into fizzy foams in a trice. The shaft snuggles into the handle housing on a spring, which cushions the bounce if you hit the sides of your mug as you froth. Loved the results, especially the lush froth of very cold skim milk. Available in no-nonsense black and bright colors, including purple.

CONSThe battery and switch cap isnt easy to remove and replace. The go button slides across the cap. It took me awhile to figure out how to make it whirr because there are no instructions and no graphics on the tool to guide you.

$14.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

Milk Frothers

WHAt to look For :HaNdleS: Whipping up a good froth takes less than a minute, but to minimize the stress from twists and bends on hands and wrists, find a handle that fits comfortably. A nonslip grip is a nice feature, but for this tool, comfort rules.

SwitCHeS: If the on switch doesnt lock in place, make sure you can depress and hold the switch without pain. SHaft aNd fROtHiNg Head: All the frothers tested use stainless steel for the shaft and the frothing head an important feature. Check that the shaft feels sturdy. Make sure the head attaches firmly. Where the

shaft meets the handle, look for a collar or spring that reinforces the connection and prevents liquid splashes up into the battery housing. fROtHiNg MOxie: Faster frothers delivered the thickest heads of foams in the shortest time.

CleaNuP: Dishwashers and frothers dont play well together. Cleanups easy but should happen right after you make the froth. Switch on the head in soapy water, rinse, wipe down the shaft and the housing with a lightly damp cloth, and dry with a soft dishtowel.

WrITTeN By Pat eby PhoToGrAPhy By Jonathan Gayman

Grab your favorite frother and whip up some creative cocktails at your next party. For more fun drink ideas, turn to Building A Better Bar.

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Bring the family, create memories and taste the warmth of the season with Gluehwein and Feuerzangenbowle. Come and toast to the season with sweet wine, bier, music and Gemuetlichkeit. Please call for music schedule and reservations.

Frohe WeihnachtenReserve your Holiday Party now. Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9. Closed on Mondays.

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Combine boiling water, sugar, lemon, cinnamon and cloves: stir until sugar dissolves. Add wine; simmer 20 minutes. Do not boil. Strain. Serve hot with a sprinkling of nutmeg.

Stone Hill Winery's Hermannsberger Mulled WineOne of many mulled wine recipes, this one is simple and unassuming. An even simpler way to make mulled wine is to purchase a bag of mulled wine spices and just drop it in the wine before heating. We carry the small spice bags in our well-appointed Hermann, New Florence and Branson winery gift shops.

1110 Stone Hil l Highway Hermann, MO 800.909.9463 www.stonehil lwinery.com

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups boiling water1/2 cup granulated sugar1/2 lemon, sliced2 whole cloves

2 sticks of cinnamon1 bottle (750 ml) of Stone Hill Winery Hermannsbergernutmeg

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get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., dec. 19,

at 6pm to make the dishes in this months menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com.

A spectacular French dessert, croquembouche was first made by the renowned chef Antoine Carme. The name translates to crunch in the mouth, as each profiterole that makes up this decadent display has a lightly crisp exterior that gives way to its cream-filled center. This beautiful and delicious creation announces a celebratory occasion such as a wedding, baptism, or party at a special time of

| Preparation Pte Choux | Preheat oven to 425F. Combine water, butter, sugar and

salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the

flour all at once and remove from heat. Beat

with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes

together and forms a ball. Transfer the dough

to a mixing bowl and let cool for 3 to 4 minutes.

With a hand mixer set on the lowest speed,

add eggs one at a time. Make sure each egg is

completely incorporated before you add the

next. Once all eggs have been added and the

mixture is smooth, place the dough into a piping

bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe immediately

into golf-ball-size rounds spaced 2 inches apart

on parchment-lined sheet pans. Bake for 10

minutes. Turn the oven down to 350F and bake

10 more minutes or until golden-brown. Remove

from oven and immediately pierce with a paring

knife to release steam.

| Preparation Caf Crme Filling | Place egg yolks, sugar, cup coffee liqueur and tsp

instant espresso in the top of a double boiler.

Continuously whip the mixture with a whisk or a

hand mixer until tripled in volume. Remove the top

pan from the double boiler and set aside to cool.

In a small saucepan, combine gelatin and water

and let stand until thick. Place the saucepan over

low heat, stirring constantly until the gelatin

dissolves. Set aside to cool completely.

In a large chilled bowl, combine heavy cream,

powdered sugar, remaining coffee liqueur and

remaining instant espresso. Beat with an electric

mixer until the cream becomes slightly thickened.

Reduce the speed of the mixer to low and add

the gelatin to the whipped cream until combined.

Return the mixer to medium-high and continue to

beat until firm. Fold the whipped cream mixture

into the egg mixture until combined.

Serves | 16 |

Pte Choux 1 cup water 6 Tbsp butter 1 Tbsp sugar tsp salt 2/3 cup flour 4 extra-large eggs

Caf Crme filling 8 egg yolks cup sugar cup coffee liqueur, such as Copa de Oro or Tia Maria, divided 2 tsp instant espresso, divided 2 tsp unflavored gelatin 8 Tbsp cold water 2 cups heavy cream 6 Tbsp powdered sugar

toPPings 1 cup heavy cream 2 cups chopped bittersweet chocolate 1 jar fine caramel or salted-caramel topping

STORy And ReCIPe By Gabrielle DeMichele PhOTOgRAPhy By Jennifer Silverberg biTe-Size delighTS

Building a Better CroquemBouChe. When piping the pte choux, be sure to create evenly sized rounds. This will help keep your tree straight and balanced. If you do not have a pastry bag, you can use two spoons. As you reach the last of the pastry, create a few smaller rounds you can later use to fill

in empty spots in your tree. While assembling the croquembouche, turn the serving plate often and survey your work to back to ensure that your structure is straight. If you want to employ an advanced technique, drizzle the tree with spun sugar, the traditional topping for this dessert.

chefS tipS :

croquembouche

JOIN US! RSVP:

schnuckscooks.com 314.909.1704

Make the Meal: Rack of lamb Potato and celeriac gratin Roasted cauliflower

Croquembouche

learn MOre: In this months cooking class, you will learn how to french lamb chops and make and fill puff pastry. Well also stabilize whipped cream, which is a great skill for creating cream fillings and whipped cream frosting, and well perfect the drizzling technique, key to creating beautiful desserts.

| Preparation Toppings | heat the cream over medium heat until hot but not boiling. Place

the chopped chocolate in a mixing bowl. Pour the

hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for 2 to

3 minutes. Whisk ganache until smooth and set

aside to cool to room temperature.

| To Assemble | Cut a small slit in the top of each puff and fill with the caf crme. On a cake

stand or serving platter, assemble the puffs in

a circle. Top some with the ganache and drizzle

some with the caramel. Stack the next layer of

puffs, creating a circle that is smaller than

the base. Top with ganache and caramel,

and continue until you have reached

the final layer of your tree. Fill in

any empty spots with smaller

puffs. drizzle the finished

croquembouche with more

ganache and caramel.

year. Although the croquembouche is the pice de rsistance, you want the rest of the meal to be special as well. Thats why weve paired this dessert with succulent rack of lamb, a princely entre in its own right. Creamy potato and celeriac gratin complements the gaminess of the lamb, and roasted cauliflower adds earthy flavor to the meal.

314-534-1700 stlsymphony.org

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december 2012 feast magazine

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