crystal bracelet

by Pam Preslar

Make this simple yet elegant beaded bracelet with Swarovski Crystals while learning Right Angle

Weave.

This project will introduce you to single needle right angle weave. The single needle method is

different from right angle weave done with two needles. The look of the resulting piece is the same

as it is when done with two needles however I find single needle is more versatile in terms of what

you can create.

You can create anything with the stitch from beaded cuffs to purses and you can even cover any

object with any bead using this method. The data in this tutorial is a prerequisite to all of my other

right angle weave tutorials which cover more advanced projects with right angle weave.

89 4mm bicone shaped beads (Swarovski #5301),

8 3mm bicone beads and

31 size 11 seed beads.

14mm button with a shank

Nymo size D thread in a coordinating color or use white

and color it with a Sharpie (discussed in this tutorial)

Substitutions

You can use any size of base bead. I have made these in all sizes from 3mm to 8mm.

Any bicone shape works well, it doesn’t have to be Swarovski. Swarovski is just my personal

preference. Other shapes and sizes are discussed more fully within.

You could also use 3mm or 4mm druks (round Czech glass) or fire polish (faceted Czech

glass. This is a good substitute for children as crystal contains lead and is not safe for children.

You could use other threads. I personally do not like anything else but this topic is

discussed more within.

Size 10 or 12 beading needles.

Fine scissors or other thread cutting tool.

A bead mat or anything to keep your beads from rolling away while you work.

If you want to follow the practice section to learn the basic stitch then you will want 4 colors

of beads. (3 orange, 3 green, 5 blue, 5 red, or any substitute colors)

Figure 1

Swarovski Crystal Bracelet

© 2011 Pam Preslar of 38 www.booksbypam.com

12.7.2011

Project Description ..................................................................................................................... 1

Materials ..................................................................................................................................... 1

Tools ............................................................................................................................................. 1

Practicing .................................................................................................................................... 1

Introduction to Right Angle Weave ...................................................................................... 3

Why use Right Angle Weave? ............................................................................................. 4

Terms Used ............................................................................................................................... 4

Basic Supplies ........................................................................................................................... 4

Thread ............................................................................................................................................ 5

Preparing Your Thread .......................................................................................................... 5

Dying Your Thread .................................................................................................................. 6

Cutting Your Thread .............................................................................................................. 6

Needles ........................................................................................................................................... 8

Threading Your Needle ......................................................................................................... 8

Substitutions ................................................................................................................................ 8

Weaving the Bracelet ................................................................................................................ 9

Finishing the Woven Section ............................................................................................. 16

Common Mistakes ...................................................................................................................... 18

Breaking Thread .................................................................................................................... 18

Always Turn Corners, Do Not Cross Them ........................................................................ 19

Maintaining Tension .................................................................................................................. 21

Creating a Custom Clasp Mechanism ................................................................................... 28

Secure Your Thread ............................................................................................................. 29

Tying a Knot ................................................................................................................................ 30

Alternatives ................................................................................................................................ 35

Starting with the Clasp ....................................................................................................... 35

Other Clasp Designs ................................................................................................................. 35

Smaller Seed Beads ............................................................................................................. 35

Simple Loop Clasp .................................................................................................................. 36

Note this table is clickable. When viewing on computer just click on the item to go there.

This copy is licensed to rady sakr at [email protected]. Distribution to others by any means is a violation of the copyright.



12.7.2011

Right angle weave is largely done by creating squares in a circular motion. I call

them “squares” because of how the beads sit with four sides. The stitch is circular

as you are weaving in a circular fashion.

This photo shows part of a beaded bag

woven in 3 bead squares with size 14

Czech seed beads. You can see that when

you use seed beads in what is called “3

bead squares” that the result is a bunch

of woven squares. This is why I refer to

them as squares even when they may not

look square. It is also a useful way of

thinking of the stitch as you move on to

more sophisticated projects such as

beaded beads and larger beaded bags.

This photo shows part of a beaded

bag using 3mm Czech fire polish

(upper left) and then 2 bead

squares in right angle weave

followed by 3mm druks (round

Czech glass).

This entire piece is done in right

angle weave. The technique

remains the same. The only

variation is in the type of bead

used in the squares.

Figure 2

Figure 3




12.7.2011

I used right angle weave for many reasons. Here a couple of those reasons.

Right angle weave is a very secure stitch. Once a piece is woven it will take

scissors to take it apart. It is not going to fall apart while being worn or used.

The finished beadwork has a silken feel when you weave in this stitch.

You can use just about any size and shape of bead. Some look great while

others do not. Bicone and round shapes work really well.

You can easily combine shapes and sizes all in one piece and you can make just

about anything with this stitch.

Needling – This refers to weaving through beads without adding any additional

beads. You will “needle around” or “needle through” in order to get your thread in

the right position for the following step.

Square – This refers to one group of four beads woven together forming a square.

You only need a couple of things to get

started: thread, needles, scissors and

some beads.

Figure 4




12.7.2011

I use Nymo (originally created for the shoe industry) brand for all weaving no

matter the bead type. I think the name Nymo is for Nylon Monofilament. Over the

years I have tried it all. When I started weaving with Swarovski crystals I thought

I would need something more robust. Everything I tried ended up cut or frayed

(including Kevlar thread, which is, or was, used in bullet-proof vests).

Nymo comes on large spools or little bobbins in a variety of sizes from OOO to D,

with D being the thickest. I have only seen OOO, OO, O, A, B, and D. I use D for

beads that are 3mm and larger. For tiny (size 13 and smaller) seed beads I use B.

For beads with smaller holes I go down to an O. I personally have never had to use

something finer than O.

Nymo comes in a variety of colors but you can also dye it. This is covered later in

this section. You can click on any blue underlined text in this tutorial.

FireLine, SoftFlex and other fine wires are stiffer than I like. Nymo leaves the

piece with a silken feel rather than the stiff feel which results with fine wire.

When you get your thread off of a small

bobbin it’s all curly. This is rather annoying

to work with so I straighten it before I

use it.

You can use a product called Thread

Heaven or beeswax and stretch it between

your fingers.

I’m pretty lazy so I just iron it. Just put it

under a warm iron and pull the thread

through – it doesn’t take much time.

Remember Nymo is nylon. Do not let the

iron sit on it.

Figure 5




12.7.2011

I never seem to have thread in the

exact right color handy so I quit

trying to collect it. Instead I just

buy white thread and a collection of

Sharpies and dye it to the color I

want.

Place the thread on an old piece of

cardboard (so the color doesn’t

bleed through), put a Sharpie on top

of it and pull the thread through.

I’ve tried other brands of markers

but Sharpies are permanent and

reliable. You don’t want the color coming off so use a quality product.

Of course you can use a fine pair of scissors but when it comes to cutting the

excess thread off of a finished piece

I like to use this Speedy Wax tool.

It is battery operated and heats up

in a jiffy. Beadsmith distributes this

item so you should be able to get it

from any bead store. Your locally

owned store will order it for you if

they don’t have it in stock. The

drawback is that it can be a little

pricey and run about $25.

The battery is under the cap on the

bottom. Just press it in and turn to

access the battery.

Figure 6

Figure 7




12.7.2011

Press on the side button for a few

seconds to heat the end wires.

Place the hot wire tip against the

thread. It will burn right off. Of

course, be careful not to cut sections

of the thread you want to remain in-

tact.

It’s safe to put the cap on and put the

tool aside. It stays hot for a bit but

the cap protects it from touching

anything.

Figure 8

Figure 9




12.7.2011

I use English beading needles in a size appropriate to match the project. Usually

size 10 will do until you get into smaller seed bead sizes.

I find that Big Eye needles tear up my thread but some of my students like them.

The amount of thread you start with is a personal decision. If it’s too short then

you have to start a new thread more often. If it’s too long then you get more

tangles and lasso stuff on your table; the corner of the table, the wheels under

your chair, the dog, etc., I use about two arms lengths, from my right fingertips to

my left fingertips.

DO NOT DOUBLE YOUR THREAD. Just thread the needle and pull it through

leaving a tail. The length of the tail can vary as you work. Be sure you don’t weave

the tail along with the main thread into your work.

I have never made a piece without having to correct an error at least once. If you

have doubled thread you will not be able to simply remove the needle and undo

previous weaving. You will have to start over (argh! I dislike re-do’s).

Nonetheless, if you do have to backtrack it may still take some patience. Right

angle weave is very secure and does not come apart easily. Even taking a piece

apart with scissors takes extra patience! It is actually a key advantage to right

angle weave. You know it is not going to fall apart when worn!

You can use larger bicone beads. I have used 6mm and 8mm bicone beads in lots of

right angle weave projects. Of course, you would then use fewer beads. You can

also go smaller and then use more beads.

This also looks great in 3 or 4mm druks (round Czech glass beads) and Czech fire

polished beads (basically faceted glass smoothed a bit by fire). Larger than 4mm in

these other shapes is not desirable to me for many projects as it leaves more

empty space than I like.




12.7.2011

If this is your first project I would stick to the same size and shape beads

throughout the project. Once you are familiar you can try all kinds of things

including mixing a variety of bead sizes and shapes. The variations and possibilities

are endless once you understand the stitch. See “Finishing the Woven Section” for

information on how to measure the bracelet and adjusting for your bead size and

wrist size.

In this example I am choosing

four colors. I will refer to the

colors directly rather than

labeling them A, B, C, etc., I

find that labels just make me

have to look back to see what

color each label represents.

If you are following along with

your bead colors and they do

not happen to be blue, green,

red and yellow then just mark

up your copy indicating your

chosen color. Just cross out or white out my color names and put in your own or

make notes in the blank space provided in each step.

You may also want to lay your beads out on a beading mat in the order they will be

used.

Pick up four beads in this order:

yellow,

red,

green,

blue.

Figure 10

Figure 11




12.7.2011

Pull thread through the beads toward the

end of the thread leaving a 2” tail.

Bring needle through the yellow, red, green

and blue again, creating a circle.

As you take up the slack a circle of thread

will form.

Your thread will sit as shown once it is

pulled snug.

This is your first square. Congratulations!!!

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15




12.7.2011

Needle through the yellow bead in the same

direction. This is simply your next bead in

the square. Your thread will now sit as

shown.

Needle around the complete square a couple

of times. This will secure your thread and

no knot will be needed.

You can leave the tail to cut off until later.

I cut it off here to avoid confusion of the

threads in the photos.

Needle around until you are exiting the

green bead. This is just so you can follow

my color scheme.

Figure 16

Figure 17

Figure 18




12.7.2011

Thread on three beads.

Blue

Yellow

Red

Circle around and needle through the same

bead that you just exited to start a new

circle of beads. Make sure you are needling

through the hole on the side opposite of

the side you came out of (follow the

arrow).

As you pull on the thread it will form a

circle. If it doesn’t then something is wrong

in an earlier step. You could back up and

start over until you figure out where you

went wrong.

When you take up the slack in the thread

the bead will sit snug, as shown, creating

two squares sitting side-by-side.

Once you are confident that your square is

correct needle around the square again to

secure it in place.

Figure 19

Figure 20

Figure 21

Figure 22




12.7.2011

Needle around the newest square until you

are exiting the yellow bead.

At this point you may want to look at the section entitled “Maintaining Tension.”

Thread on three beads in this order…

Red

Green

Blue

Then enter through the yellow bead as

shown.

At this point you may want to look at the section entitled “Common Mistakes.”

The circle will form as you take up the

slack.

Figure 23

Figure 25

Figure 24

Blue underlined text is

clickable and will take you to

the appropriate section in

this tutorial.




12.7.2011

Your work should look like this after you

have taken up the slack. You now have 3

squares sitting side by side.

Needle around the square again to hold it in

place. I did not go around twice in the

photographs and you can see the gaps. You

will not have those if you go around again,

but you won’t be able to undo to correct

mistakes very easily.

Needle around until your thread exits as

shown.

Pick up three beads in this order…

Blue

Yellow

Red

Needle through the green bead. This is the

bead you had exited previously.

Figure 26

Figure 27

Figure 28

Figure 29




12.7.2011

This is how it should look as you take up all

of the slack.

Needle around the square again.

Needle around until you exit the yellow

bead.

Add three beads in the following order…

Red

Green

Blue

Circle around and needle through the

yellow bead as shown.

It should look as shown when you pull up

the slack.

Needle around the square again.

Needle around until you exit as shown.

Note: You will be moving the beadwork

around as you weave but the photos only

show the steps. See the section

Maintaining Tension for how to hold the

beadwork as you weave.

Figure 30

Figure 31

Figure 33

Figure 32




12.7.2011

Weave as in the previous section with your chosen bead colors and sizes.

Continue until you have enough woven section to fit your wrist. Make adjustments

in the woven section to fit the desired size.

The clasp mechanism in the sample takes up 7/8”. Each square takes 3/8”.

My sample bracelet measures 7 7/8” when laid flat. The woven section measures 6

1/4” laid flat. I used 29 squares for the base woven section.

I try to make the woven section in an odd number of squares. This is useful for

embellishment later, if desired (see the Embellished Swarovski Crystal Bracelet

tutorial wherever you purchased this tutorial).

Of course, all of this can be adjusted to suit what beads you are using and what

clasp mechanism you have chosen to use.

This bracelet

was made with

8mm sterling

silver beads and

2mm round

sterling beads

in the clasp

mechanism.

Figure 34




12.7.2011

Here is another way to look at right angle weave it. This is a page from a book I

published back in the 90’s (ISBN #978-0-9650282-0-2). The diagrams are with

seed bead shapes. Seed beads also make a charming little strand.

Figure 35




12.7.2011

1. The first mistake I find students making is

in completing the square after adding three

beads. Often students will try to go back

through the last bead added the same way

they were exiting. This mistake is shown in

the photo at right. If you pull up the slack

here you would just have a dangling piece of

fringe.

2. The other mistake is trying to add the next

square from the wrong starting position. In the full-color example herein

that would be trying to add a square from a red or a blue bead.

I’ve only found three reasons for thread breaking when weaving crystals using

right angle weave.

1. Trying to pull the thread snug by pulling in the opposite direction. There is

no reason to pull the thread super tight. To pull it snug you need to pull your

thread in the direction that it is already exiting the beads. See “Maintaining

Tension” for more information.

2. Using Big Eye needles. I think this is

because the eye of the needle clamps down

on the thread rather than allowing it to

flow through the eye.

3. Using thread other than Nymo. I

haven’t found an alternative that I like. I

like thread because of the smooth

flexibility of the resulting piece. Products

such as Fireline (which certainly has its

uses) break when weaving crystals and the

final piece is not as silky and is instead

rather stiff.

Figure 36

A variety of

bead shapes and sizes.

From left to right, seed

beads, crystals, faceted

Czech glass.

Figure 37




12.7.2011

This is my cardinal rule in single needle right angle weave.

If you follow the method in this tutorial

exactly you will not have crossed corners.

Nonetheless, I often find my students having

trouble with this when learning the stitch.

The trick is to always weave your thread in a

circular fashion and never go straight down a

row.

The single row strand in this photo shows no

crossed corners and no thread showing.

In this photo is an extreme example of

crossed corners.

When you are reinforcing your work or adding

embellishments you also want to be sure to

not cross corners.

Always follow the rule of Always Turn

Corners, Do Not Cross Them unless you want

the beadwork to be stiff.

There are cases where you want a section to

be stiff. Some of my future tutorials use this

but you don’t want it in this bracelet.

Figure 38

Figure 39




12.7.2011

This wider piece is an example of where one

can easily cross corners without realizing it.

Notice that the squares each have an empty

space between them. This is what you usually

want.

This photo shows one crossed corner in the

middle of the woven piece.

I almost always find one of these in my

beadwork when I have a large piece woven in

small beads.

A couple them accidently woven in will not

ruin the whole piece so you needn’t destroy

your work when you find one. Realize that either it won’t be noticed or see it as an

opportunity to add some embellishments : ).

This is just a close up of the crossed corner from

the last photo. That is how they look to me -

magnified and glaring, when it’s in my own work. No

one will notice and it won’t wreck the piece.

However, a bunch of crossed corners will ruin the

flexibility. Can you distinguish the crossed corner

from the uncrossed corner in the photo?

Figure 40Figure 41

Figure 42




12.7.2011

A key trick to making a right angle weave piece look uniform is maintaining an even

tension. The pictures presented so far do not show how I hold the piece while

weaving. Of course you are not going to weave your piece while it sits flat on your

table. Here is how I hold the piece and how I maintain even tension at the same

time.

Hold the piece in your non-dominant hand as

shown. (Left-handers will probably be

opposite of the photo.)

Note: These are larger 6mm beads and I am

using only three colors in this example.

Grasp it with your thumb as shown.

Pull the thread over your index finger and

hold it in place between your index finger

and second finger.

Notice in the photo that it is wrapped

tightly around my finger.

Figure 43

Figure 44

Figure 45




12.7.2011

Keep the thread wrapped around your

finger and continue to hold the piece with

your thumb.

Load your needle with the next three

beads and needle up through the fuchsia

bead on the last square.

Pull the needle and thread through the

fuchsia bead. Do this while holding it all

with your thumb (I lifted my thumb only to

show the position of the thread).

Wrap the thread around your index finger.

Needle into the next bead in the square.

This is the tanzanite bead in this example.

Figure 46

Figure 47

Figure 48

Figure 49




12.7.2011

Needle into the next bead (fuchsia).

Note: It is not necessary to pull the thread

all the way through the tanzanite bead at

this point. Keep that thread section around

your index finger to maintain the tension as

you complete this square.

Needle through the blue zircon bead.

Try to ignore all the messy thread in the

photo and notice the needle. The needle is

going in the direction of the arrow.

Pull the needle and thread all the way

through the blue zircon bead.

Note: The thread is still wrapped around

your index finger.

Throughout the above steps you should hold

the beadwork under your thumb as much as

possible.

You should be

exiting from the

Blue Zircon bead.

Figure 50

Figure 51

Figure 52

Figure 53




12.7.2011

We were here, exiting the blue zircon

bead.

Needle up through the previous fuchsia

bead. Thread is still around my index

finger – you just can’t see it in the photo.

Once again, hold on to the beadwork.

Pull the thread through and let it come

off of your index finger.

Figure 54

Figure 55

Figure 56

Figure 57




12.7.2011

This shows the beadwork and where the

thread exits at this point.

Needle around the square again to secure

it and hold it in place.

Once you have needled around the square

again, needle through the tanzanite bead.

Needle down through the fuchsia bead.

Continue to hold onto the beadwork as you

pull the thread through.

Figure 58

Figure 59

Figure 60

Figure 61




12.7.2011

This is how it should all sit at this point.

Flip the beadwork over so that the thread

is pointing up.

Wrap the thread around your index finger

and add the three beads for the next

square.

Continue in this way throughout the woven

section.

It may seem complicated but it is not. Step by step instructions on how to walk may

make walking seem very complicated also.

Note: Always pull your thread in the direction that it is exiting the bead. In other

words do not pull across the edge of the bead.

Figure 62

Figure 63

Figure 64




12.7.2011

You should have a completed woven section before the next step.

I used five squares of silver in the

center and ended each side with a

silver square.

There are two squares of Heliotrope

beads on either side of the center

silver squares.

Actually, I was low on the smoke

color beads and added the others to

accomplish the length. You can use

this idea to make designs within your

bracelet.

The

completed

woven

section

Figure 65

4mm Czech

Fire Polish

4mm round

Czech Glass

aka Druks

4mm

Swarovski

Crystal in

Blue Zircon

Figure 66




12.7.2011

I like the clasp to be something that the

wearer wants to display proudly up front. I

never treat it as an afterthought and often

make it the focal point of a piece. I like to

add the surprise of the functionality of a part

of the piece that appears to be just

decorative.

Make sure that the loop on the other end will

fit over your button. It must be large enough

to fit the button through but not so large

that the bracelet falls off.

Just string on some beads and see how they

fit around your button. In this sample I used

a 12mm button.

In this photo I am testing to determine how

many beads it takes to circle around half of

the button. This gives me a starting point for

testing a loop size.

What follows is the design I came up with for

my loop.

Close up

of the end

of the

woven

section

Figure 67

Figure 68

Figure 69




12.7.2011

Pick up:

3 size 11 seed beads

1 3mm crystal

1 seed bead

1 3mm crystal

1 seed bead

1 3mm crystal

3 seed beads

1 4mm crystal

3 seed beads

Then needle back through the

4mm crystal and reverse the

pattern for the other side of the

loop. All exactly as in the photo.

Needle around one more time to reinforce

the loop. Be careful not to pull too tight or

the beads won’t sit nicely.

You can secure your thread by just needling

into your beadwork until it is snug.

Or

You could quickly needle around the whole bracelet again, exiting the other end to

add the button side of the clasp. This is also a chance to take up any slack on any

loose squares.

This is what

worked for

my 14mm

button. You

should

adjust for a

button of a

different

size.

Figure 70

Figure 71




12.7.2011

Or

Instead of needling around you could tie a

knot. I rarely tie a knot in beadwork but some

beadworkers prefer it. Below are the

instructions on tying and hiding a secure knot.

Needle under an exposed thread.

As you pull on your thread a loop will be

formed.

Figure 72

Figure 73

Take your

needle

through the

loop.

Figure 75 Pull the

thread

through the

loop.

Figure 74




12.7.2011

Continue to pull until a loose knot forms. Do

not pull it snug yet.

Needle through the next bead. The arrow is

pointing the next bead.

Pull the thread snug (not too tight) and the

knot will tighten and hide inside of the bead.

Stop pulling once it is inside of the bead. You

can needle through a couple of beads and tie

an additional knot.

Figure 76

Figure 77

Figure 78




12.7.2011

Needle all the way down the bracelet to the other end. Be sure to not cross

corners as you do this. This always makes me feel the bracelet is more secure and

it provides an opportunity to “snug up” any squares that are rather loose. You could

also embellish the bracelet as you go. This is covered in my Embellished Swarovski Crystal Bracelet Tutorial.

At the other end add a button by stringing on some seed beads with a button in the

center.

Following the photo string on

3 seed beads,

1 3mm crystal,

3 seed beads,

the button,

3 seed beads,

1 3mm crystal,

3 seed beads.

Front view of the button end of the clasp

Figure 79

Figure 80




12.7.2011

Circle around and needle through the last

bead in the woven section.

As you take up slack.

This is how it should look as you pull the

thread snug. Don’t pull too snug, just take up

the slack so the beads sit comfortably next

to each other.

I like to go back through this loop one more

time for security.

Figure 81

Figure 82

Figure 83




12.7.2011

At this point you can weave

back through a couple of

squares to secure the

thread. Tie a knot if you

prefer.

Once the thread is secure

you can bury it and cut off

any excess.

Figure 85

Figure 84

Write to me with any questions you have about any of my tutorials.

I enjoy helping!

Please write via the web site where your downloaded this tutorial.




12.7.2011

Of course you can come up with your own variations but here are a couple of ideas.

I do not usually have a concrete plan when I start weaving but if you know what you

want to use as a clasp you can:

1. Weave one square.

2. Attach the button end of the clasp to that one square

as shown in earlier pages.

3. Weave the length of the bracelet.

a. Needle through each square an extra time as you go along.

4. Create a loop on the other end.

This speeds up the process tremendously if you want to create a bunch of

bracelets.

I used size 15 seed beads on this one. You can do all kinds of designs and any size

seed bead but just make sure to test the size of your loop before you commit to it.

2 seed beads,

3mm crystal,

10 seed beads,

12mm button,

10 seed beads,

3mm crystal,

2mm seed beads.

Figure 86

Figure 88

2 seed beads,

3mm crystal,

10 seed beads,

3mm crystal,

3 seed beads,

needle through crystal,

repeat to match the other side.

Figure 87




12.7.2011

This one is the easiest custom clasp. Just make your loop to fit over the button.

These are some numbers I worked out. You should still test your loop as seed

beads can vary a little with each lot.

I used 64 6mm

crystals to

create a woven

section that is

6 ½” long.

The clasp

mechanism adds

another 7/8th of

an inch when

closed.

I used 11 size 15 seed beads on

either side of this 12mm

button.

Figure 90 I use 26 size 15 seed beads for

the loop.

Figure 89

Bracelet

woven with

6mm crystals

and using an

18mm button

for the clasp.

Figure 91

I used 18 size 11 seed beads

for the loop side of the clasp.

Figure 92 I used 11 size 11 seed beads on

either side of the 18mm button.

Figure 93




12.7.2011

More Tutorials in

Right Angle Weave

by Pam Preslar

Download these

where you

purchased this

tutorial.


Woven

Swarovski

Cuff

Embellished

Swarovski Bracelet

Beaded Bag

Beads,

Buttons & Baubles

Beaded Bead

Items in photos are not to

scale relative to each other.


by Pam Preslar


crystal bracelet

Documents