CREPE AND SATIN WEAVEBy Ashutosh Gupta & Ayush Tyagi

INTRODUCTION

Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves and are also known as “crape” or “oatmeal” fabrics due to their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles and their arrangement on the fabric surface determine the type of crepe fabric.

The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns (highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and sometimes by special process of finishing, i.e., embossing.

Methods for the construction of crepe weaves-

Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base

Combination of a floating weave with plain threads

By reversing a small motif

Insertion of one weave over another.

Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base• In this case the base weave is a

sateen, upon which a chosen weave is inserted to get the irregular effects. This is shown in Fig. 7.1.

• At Fig. A, is shown the base sateen weave and at Fig. B, is shown the crepe effect obtained by insertion of a twill weave (3/1 and 1/3) upon the sateen base. The sateen weave has been marked with a different notation in order to identify the base weave.

Combination of a floating weave with plain threads•In this method a floating weave is inserted upon a plain weave to get the desired crepe effect as shown in Fig.7.2

• At Fig. A, is shown the insertion of plain weave. The arrow marks indicate the boxes where the floating weave is to be inserted.

By reversing of a small motif

• In this method a simple motif can be chosen and reversed at intervals within the design repeat to get an irregular effect as shown in Fig. 7.3.

• At A, is shown a simple motif and at B, is shown the crepe designs obtained by reversal of the motif at regular intervals.

Insertion of one weave over another

• In this method two different weaves are chosen and are inserted over one another to get the desired crepe effect as shown in the Fig. 7.4. In order to produce an irregular effect, at least one of the weaves should be irregular and would be better if both are irregular. Sateen and sateen derivatives are generally used in this method.

• In Fig. A, is shown a sateen derivative and in Fig. B, is shown a 4 end sateen. In Fig. C, is shown the crepe effect obtained by the insertion of A over B.

Satin fabrics

Thumb rules for making satin weave

Move can not be one or less than one of the satin no.

Move no. should not be factor of satin no.

There should not be any common factor between move no. & satin no.

Thank you