KHADI ACTIVITIES AT MGIRI – A CASE STUDY

Prof. R.B.Chavan

Former Professor, I I T Delhi

Project Consultant

Mahatma Gandhi institute of Rural Industrialization

Wardha

KHADI GROUP

TECHNICAL STAFF

Ph.D 01

M.Tech 05

B. E 01

M.Sc 01

Diploma 02

Total 10

FACULTY EXPERTIES

Prof.R.B.Chavan (Chemical Processing)

Prof. Ravi Chattopadhyay (Spinning)

Shri R.P.Tewari (Weaving)

METHODOLOGY

Visits to selected khadi institutions

Identification of problems

Identification of research and development projects to deal with identified problems

ESSENTIAL REQUIREMENT

A close interaction between khadi group, KVIC and Khadi institutions

PROJECT IDENTIFICATION

1. FINISHING OF KHADI FABRIC AND GARMENTS

2. DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES

3. MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN

4. MACHINE DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

OTHER PROJECTS

1. DEVELOPMENT OF WOOL/ACRYLIC FABRIC BLENDS

2. STATUS REPORT OF KHADI INSTITUTIONS IN VIDARBHA REGION

PHILOSOPHY

NO BASIC RESEARCH

IDENTIFICATION OF WELL ESTABLISHED TECHNOLOGIES PRACTICED IN THE MILL SECTOR (MASS PRODUCTION)

DOWNSIZE THE TECHNOLOGY TO MAKE IT SUITABLE FOR KHADI SECTOR (PRODUCTION BY MASSES)

STRATEGY

PHASE I

DOWNSIZING AND STANDARDIZATION OF TECHNOLOGY IN LABORATORY AT IIT DELHI

PHASE IIDEMONSTRATION OF TECHNOLOGY AT IIT DELHI

PHASE IIIDEMONSTRATION OF TECHNOLOGY IN KHADI INSTITUTIONS

ON ALL INDIA BASIS

PHASE IV

TRANSFER OF TECHNOLOGY IN KHADI SECTOR

PROVED TO BE SUCCESSFUL STRATEGY

FIRST IDENTIFIED TECHNOLOGY

FINISHING OF KHADI FABRICS AND GARMENTS

REASONS

NO FINSHING TREATMENT GIVEN FOR VALUE ADDITION IN KHADI SECTOR

RESULT• POOR APPEARANCE

• HIGH MAINTENANCE COST IN THE FORM OF APPLYING STARCH

AFTER EVERY WASH

• LOW ACCEPTABILITY IN MARKET

MODERN FINISHING TECHNIQUES CAN OVERCOME THESE PROBLEMS

FINISHING TECHNIQUES IDENTIFIEDFINISHING TECHNIQUES IDENTIFIED

1.1. STIFF FINISHSTIFF FINISH

2. SOFT FINISH2. SOFT FINISH

3. STONELESS STONE WASH FINISH3. STONELESS STONE WASH FINISH

4. ENZYME WASH OR BIO-POLISHING4. ENZYME WASH OR BIO-POLISHING

5.5. WRINKLE FREE FINSHING FOR POLY VASTRAWRINKLE FREE FINSHING FOR POLY VASTRA

DOWNSIZING

DOMESTIC WASHING MACHINE

TUMBLE DRYER

WASHING MACHINE TUMBLE DRYER

PHASE 1

TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION

VENUE I I T DELHI

PARTICIPANTS

• SENIOR OFFICERS FROM KVIC OF DIRECTOR LEVEL

• REPRESENTATIVES OF SECRETARY LEVEL FROM SELECTED KHADI INSTITUTIONS

• REPRESENTATIVES FROM SELECTED KHADI BHANDARS

• REPRESENTATIVES FROM NGO

PHASE 2

BOOKLET ON FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS

FEED BACK

OUT OF FIVE FINSHING TECHNIOQUES

• STIFF FINSH

• SOFT FINISH

MOST SUITABLE FOR KHADI SECTOR

TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION ON ALL INDIA TECHNOLOGY DEMONSTRATION ON ALL INDIA BASISBASIS

STATESTATE NO. OF WORKSHOPSNO. OF WORKSHOPS

1. MAHARASTRA1. MAHARASTRA 22

2. UTTAR PRADESH2. UTTAR PRADESH 33

3. TAMILNADU3. TAMILNADU 11

4. JHARKHAND4. JHARKHAND 11

5. RAJASTHAN5. RAJASTHAN 11

TOTALTOTAL 88

FUNDS FROM KVICFUNDS FROM KVIC Rs. 8 LAKSRs. 8 LAKS

PHASE 3

FEED BACKFEED BACK

• MOST SUITABLE TECHNOLOGYMOST SUITABLE TECHNOLOGY

• CONSIDERABLE IMPROVEMENT IN QUALITY OF PRODUCTCONSIDERABLE IMPROVEMENT IN QUALITY OF PRODUCT

• WOULD CERTAINLY IMPROVE SALE OF KHADIWOULD CERTAINLY IMPROVE SALE OF KHADI

• FINISHED GARMENTS CAN ATTRACT YOUNGER GENERATIONFINISHED GARMENTS CAN ATTRACT YOUNGER GENERATION

• CAN BE CONVENIENTLY ADOPTED IN KHADI SECTORCAN BE CONVENIENTLY ADOPTED IN KHADI SECTOR

• TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER OF STIFF AND SOFT FINSIHING TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER OF STIFF AND SOFT FINSIHING

SHOULD BE DONE AT THE EARLIEST IN DIFFERENT ZONESSHOULD BE DONE AT THE EARLIEST IN DIFFERENT ZONES

RECOMMENDATION BY KHADI GROUP

TO SET UP MODEL KHADI GARMENT FINISHING UNIT AT

KSHETRIYA SHRI GANDHI ASHRAM BARABANKI

GRANT OF RS 12.5 LAKHS FROM KVIC

FOR SETTING UP

MODEL GARMENT FINISHING UNIT

MODEL GARMENT FINISHING UNIT AT

KSHETRIYA SHRI GANDHI ASHRAM,

BARABANKI

TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER

JUNE 2, 2003

PRESS CLIPPINGS

10 NEWS PAPERS FROM LUCKNOW

03 NEWS PAPERS FROM BARABANKI

COVERED THE EVENT

MEDIA COVERAGE

HINDUSTAN TIMES ; Modernization of khadi unit renews hopes

PIONEER India’s first khadi finishing unit at Barabanki

INDIAN EXPRESS Hi-tech unit to give khadi wings

TIMES OF INDIA India’s first modern model khadi finishing unit

inaugurated

ASSOCIATION OF KHADI INSTITUTIONS

SERVING AS COMMON FACILITY

CENTRE FOR 21 KHADI ISSTITUIONS

STATES COVERED

• UTTAR PRADESH,

• UTTARANCHAL,

• MADHYA PRADESH

TECHNOLOGY OF DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES

TECHNOLOGY OF MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN

TECHNOLOGY READY FOR TRANSFER

TECHNOLOGY READY FOR TRANSFER

QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUALQUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

ESSENTIAL TO SET UP QUALITY ASSURANCE LABORATORIES IN DIFFERENT ZONES

KHADI GROUP ACTIVITIES AT A GLANCE 2001-2005

TECHNOLOGIES DOWNSIZED FOR KHADI SECTOR

FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS

DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES

MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN

BLENDING OF WOOL ACRYLIC BLENDS FOR SHAWL MANUFACTURE

QUALITY ASSUANCE FOR KHADI

PUBLICATIONS

FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS

QUALITY ASSURANCE Manual FOR KHADI

QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL FOR KHADI AT A GLANCE

TECHOLOGY TRANSFERED

FINISHING OF KHADI GARMENTS

TECHOLOGIES READY FOR TRANSFER

DYENG OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES

MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN

NEED TO SET UP QUALITY ASSURANCE LABORATORIES

LABORATORY MODELS OF MACHINES DEVELOPED

MERCERIZATION MACHINE

YARN DYEING MACHINE

FABRIC DYEING MACHINE

TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR KHADI

TECHNICALLY VIRGIN AREA

NO CONCENTRATED EFFORTS TO

MODERNIZE THE KHADI SECTOR

TO MEET THE CHALLENGES OF

GLOBAL COMPETITION

Decentralized Sector

TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

NATURAL FIBRES / FABRICS

MAN-MADE FIBRES / FABRICS

Organized Sector(Mills)

Spinning Composites Handloom Powerloom Khadi

WOLL

JUTE

SILK

COTTON

RAYONCellulose / viscose

BLENDED(Synthetic + Natural)

SYNTHETIC(Nylon, PET, PAN)

TOTAL CLOTH PRODUCTION 47,330 Mn Sq. Metres

TOTAL KHADI PRODUCTION 111.49 Mn.Sq. Meters

CLOTH PRODUCTION SHARE

SECTORSECTOR

CLOTH CLOTH PRODUCTION PRODUCTION

%%

ORGANIZED ORGANIZED MILL SECTORMILL SECTOR

0404

POWER LOOMPOWER LOOM 6363

HANDLOOMHANDLOOM 14 14

HOSIERYHOSIERY 1919

KHADIKHADI 0.0030.003

FUNDS PROVIDED FOR MODERNIZATION OF ORGANIZED TEXTILE MILL SECTOR

yearyear Amount Amount

(Crores)(Crores)

19861986 750750

1999-20041999-2004 25,00025,000

TECHOLOGY MISSIONS FOR OTHER TEXTILE SECTORS

TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR JUTE

TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR COTTON

NEED FOR

TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR KHADI

TECHOLOGY UPGRADATION FUNDS FOR MODERNIZATION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY

SUGGESTIONS

1. IDENTIFICATION OF KHADI INSTITUTIONS AND PROVISON OF FUNDS FOR TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER OF

• DYEING OF KHADI WITH NATURAL DYES

• MERCERIZATION OF KHADI YARN

2. SETTING UP QULAITY ASSURANCE LABORATORIES

3. PUBLICATION OF SECOND EDITION OF QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

TECHNOLOGY MISSION FOR KHADI