connecticut food & farm, fall 2015, issue 2
DESCRIPTION
Welcome to a delicious fall issue of Connecticut Food and Farm! Hit the road for a foliage tour stop at America’s oldest steam-powered cider mill or a Connecticut winery. Warm up your kitchen with autumn comfort foods. Learn about making harvest-time pies, garlic planting (it’s time!), keeping pigs, starting a food truck, and making hand-forged knives… and we share our TOP PICKS for your Thanksgiving Table!TRANSCRIPT
H
and
-For
ge
d Knives
fall day tripping Touring Connecticutrsquos Wineries
3 Connecticut Food and Farm
Contents fall 2015 volume 2
Features 6 Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigs
14 Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives RusticRefinedandUseful
24 An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
30 Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup Warm Rich Earthy and Satisfying
36 Mercado Catering amp Food Truck A Lesson in Local Inspiration
46 Lucky Girlrsquos Favorite Pies for Harvest Time
56 BF Clydes Americarsquos Oldest Steam-Powered Cider Mill
64 Our Top Picks for Your Thanksgiving Table
88 Autumn Day Tripping Touring Connecticutrsquos Wineries
96 A Chefrsquos Take on Fall Comfort Foods
In Every Issue 5 Letter from the Editor
106 Contributors
107 Recipe Index
6
14
46
64
4 Fall 2015
Letter From the Editor
5 Connecticut Food and Farm
WelcomeWe harvest when the crop is ripe Garlic cures now hung in bunches in the barnrsquos rafters hay bales are stacked in the loft freezers are filled and pantry shelves are lined with gem-toned jars of canned tomatoes and Concord-grape jam
Ideas reach fruition too as do projects For a dozen years the primary work of the 501c3 that also oversees Connecticut Food and Farm has been operating the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market which concludes its run at the end of October
Started as a seed of an idea of creating something unlike anything else in Connecticut the Market grew to become an award-winning national phenomenon drawing more than 5000 customers per day and providing a critical direct-sales outlet for farmers and makers It has been a linchpin for connecting our statersquos food producers to consumers who believe in what they do
Endings also hold the promise of beginnings From the most perfect specimens of our crops we save the seeds In doing so we not only make possible the bounty of another harvest but what we grow gets a little better than before
Our 501c3 focus now turns fully toward our green-and-growing Connecticut Food and Farm project which calls to action everything wersquove learned about telling the stories of the local food movement to people who support it A ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo of farmers chefs food makers photographers writers and designers all contribute to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine
The magazine is presented ad-free through the support of a single generous sponsor Whole Foods Market so our energies can be poured into creating great content
I hope you devour this delicious autumn issue
If you have a story idea or would like to lend your talents to this passion project please e-mail me at winterctfoodandfarmcom
Winter Caplanson
Editor in Chief
ldquoA cooperative spirit enjoys a better harvestrdquo - TF Hodge
6 Fall 2015
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
3 Connecticut Food and Farm
Contents fall 2015 volume 2
Features 6 Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigs
14 Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives RusticRefinedandUseful
24 An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
30 Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup Warm Rich Earthy and Satisfying
36 Mercado Catering amp Food Truck A Lesson in Local Inspiration
46 Lucky Girlrsquos Favorite Pies for Harvest Time
56 BF Clydes Americarsquos Oldest Steam-Powered Cider Mill
64 Our Top Picks for Your Thanksgiving Table
88 Autumn Day Tripping Touring Connecticutrsquos Wineries
96 A Chefrsquos Take on Fall Comfort Foods
In Every Issue 5 Letter from the Editor
106 Contributors
107 Recipe Index
6
14
46
64
4 Fall 2015
Letter From the Editor
5 Connecticut Food and Farm
WelcomeWe harvest when the crop is ripe Garlic cures now hung in bunches in the barnrsquos rafters hay bales are stacked in the loft freezers are filled and pantry shelves are lined with gem-toned jars of canned tomatoes and Concord-grape jam
Ideas reach fruition too as do projects For a dozen years the primary work of the 501c3 that also oversees Connecticut Food and Farm has been operating the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market which concludes its run at the end of October
Started as a seed of an idea of creating something unlike anything else in Connecticut the Market grew to become an award-winning national phenomenon drawing more than 5000 customers per day and providing a critical direct-sales outlet for farmers and makers It has been a linchpin for connecting our statersquos food producers to consumers who believe in what they do
Endings also hold the promise of beginnings From the most perfect specimens of our crops we save the seeds In doing so we not only make possible the bounty of another harvest but what we grow gets a little better than before
Our 501c3 focus now turns fully toward our green-and-growing Connecticut Food and Farm project which calls to action everything wersquove learned about telling the stories of the local food movement to people who support it A ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo of farmers chefs food makers photographers writers and designers all contribute to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine
The magazine is presented ad-free through the support of a single generous sponsor Whole Foods Market so our energies can be poured into creating great content
I hope you devour this delicious autumn issue
If you have a story idea or would like to lend your talents to this passion project please e-mail me at winterctfoodandfarmcom
Winter Caplanson
Editor in Chief
ldquoA cooperative spirit enjoys a better harvestrdquo - TF Hodge
6 Fall 2015
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
4 Fall 2015
Letter From the Editor
5 Connecticut Food and Farm
WelcomeWe harvest when the crop is ripe Garlic cures now hung in bunches in the barnrsquos rafters hay bales are stacked in the loft freezers are filled and pantry shelves are lined with gem-toned jars of canned tomatoes and Concord-grape jam
Ideas reach fruition too as do projects For a dozen years the primary work of the 501c3 that also oversees Connecticut Food and Farm has been operating the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market which concludes its run at the end of October
Started as a seed of an idea of creating something unlike anything else in Connecticut the Market grew to become an award-winning national phenomenon drawing more than 5000 customers per day and providing a critical direct-sales outlet for farmers and makers It has been a linchpin for connecting our statersquos food producers to consumers who believe in what they do
Endings also hold the promise of beginnings From the most perfect specimens of our crops we save the seeds In doing so we not only make possible the bounty of another harvest but what we grow gets a little better than before
Our 501c3 focus now turns fully toward our green-and-growing Connecticut Food and Farm project which calls to action everything wersquove learned about telling the stories of the local food movement to people who support it A ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo of farmers chefs food makers photographers writers and designers all contribute to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine
The magazine is presented ad-free through the support of a single generous sponsor Whole Foods Market so our energies can be poured into creating great content
I hope you devour this delicious autumn issue
If you have a story idea or would like to lend your talents to this passion project please e-mail me at winterctfoodandfarmcom
Winter Caplanson
Editor in Chief
ldquoA cooperative spirit enjoys a better harvestrdquo - TF Hodge
6 Fall 2015
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
5 Connecticut Food and Farm
WelcomeWe harvest when the crop is ripe Garlic cures now hung in bunches in the barnrsquos rafters hay bales are stacked in the loft freezers are filled and pantry shelves are lined with gem-toned jars of canned tomatoes and Concord-grape jam
Ideas reach fruition too as do projects For a dozen years the primary work of the 501c3 that also oversees Connecticut Food and Farm has been operating the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market which concludes its run at the end of October
Started as a seed of an idea of creating something unlike anything else in Connecticut the Market grew to become an award-winning national phenomenon drawing more than 5000 customers per day and providing a critical direct-sales outlet for farmers and makers It has been a linchpin for connecting our statersquos food producers to consumers who believe in what they do
Endings also hold the promise of beginnings From the most perfect specimens of our crops we save the seeds In doing so we not only make possible the bounty of another harvest but what we grow gets a little better than before
Our 501c3 focus now turns fully toward our green-and-growing Connecticut Food and Farm project which calls to action everything wersquove learned about telling the stories of the local food movement to people who support it A ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo of farmers chefs food makers photographers writers and designers all contribute to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine
The magazine is presented ad-free through the support of a single generous sponsor Whole Foods Market so our energies can be poured into creating great content
I hope you devour this delicious autumn issue
If you have a story idea or would like to lend your talents to this passion project please e-mail me at winterctfoodandfarmcom
Winter Caplanson
Editor in Chief
ldquoA cooperative spirit enjoys a better harvestrdquo - TF Hodge
6 Fall 2015
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
6 Fall 2015
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
7 Connecticut Food and Farm
Everything but the Squeal A Guide to Raising Pastured Pigsby Michelle Firestone Winter Caplanson Photos
hree piglets are sleeping peacefully in their house while three others are lounging in the sun A seventh piglet is grazing in the field It is a typical summer day on Proctor-Hall Farm in Andover CT the quaint country setting where brothers Dan and Scott Warren raise high-quality humanely raised pigs
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your food comes from and to raise animals responsiblyrdquo said Scott ldquoItrsquos better for everyone to have their food come from a local sourcerdquo Scott recently shared some advice on how to raise pigs for those who want to follow in his and his brotherrsquos footsteps
Buying a PigIt is best to buy a pig from a local farm rather than a commercial operation Scott said Pigs currently cost about $100 each Piglets must be weaned and should be six weeks old before purchasing
Pig AnticsJust like dogs and humans pigs are social animals and should never be raised alone Each pig has its own unique personality Donrsquot be alarmed if they tug on your jeans or shoelaces theyrsquore just being playful Pigs also love to be scratched Because they lack sweat glands they must roll around in the mud to cool off on a hot day However despite that habit pigs are considered to be very clean animals And regardless of the temperature they sleep next to each other
GrubWhen pigs are hungry they make quite a scene begging for food by squealing Their water should be checked throughout the day especially when it is hot Theyrsquoll eat nearly anything ldquoFor the most part pigs can eat any natural vegetation including grass hay vegetables and fruitrdquo said Scott One exception is raw potatoes which are difficult for pigs to digest and can make them ill It is
T
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
8 Fall 2015
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
9 Connecticut Food and Farm
up to the farmer whether he or she wants to raise their pigs on grain grass scraps or a combination of the three Scott advised that if pigs are only getting grain they should be fed one pound of grain per month of age every day
ldquoIf pigs are raised on pasture they only need to be fed once a day Otherwise they should be fed twice a dayrdquo His favorite places to buy pig grain in Eastern Connecticut are Mack-eyrsquos in Willimantic Agway (several locations statewide) and CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies in Manchester
Buying in bulk at CCC Feeds and Farm Supplies costs 20 to 25 cents per pound while buying the grain in bags costs 30 to 35 cents
per pound Other pig favorites include corn watermelon and tomatoes Therersquos no need to cut up corn or other foods that are tough to chew as pigs have strong teeth that can tear through anything
HousingPigs need a three-sided shelter bedded with hay If you are in the country and have young piglets lock up the shelter at night until they are large enough to defend themselves from predators such as foxes coyotes fisher cats and bobcats Itrsquos also important to have sturdy fencing around the pigsrsquo house and grazing area Pigs are master escape artists and if there is a hole in the fence they will find it
ldquoItrsquos important to know where your
food comes from and to raise animals
responsiblyrdquo said Scott
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
10 Fall 2015
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
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95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
11 Connecticut Food and Farm
Pigs are
master escape
artists and
if there is
a hole in the
fence they
will find it
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
12 Fall 2015
This Little Piggy Went to MarketAccording to Scott if they are raised on pasture it takes between seven and eight months for pigs to grow to 250 pounds ndash the ideal butchering weight There are several butchers in the area some of which are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture Processing costs around 40 cents to $100 per pound based on the hanging weight of the pig the weight of the animal after itrsquos been slaughtered and the guts and intestines have been removed While some butchers wrap the meat others will not
Where to Sell PorkChefs at several local restaurants are using locally-raised meat in their dishes (Firebox in Hartford Millwrightrsquos Restaurant and Tavern in Simsbury The Engine Room in Mystic to name a few) There are also a number of farmersrsquo markets throughout the state seeking meat producers Learn more about the farmerrsquos markets in Connecticut at wwwfarmersmarkettrailcom
Pig LingoThere are many different names for pigs
depending on their age and gender
Boar a male adult pig with intact testicles Barrow a young male pigShoat any pig that weighs less than 120 lbs Hog any pig that weighs at least 120 lbs Sow a female pig that has farrowed (produced a litter) at least once Gilt a young female that has not farrowed
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
14 Fall 2015
Rustic Refined and UsefulAndy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
byJenniferShaffJepsen Diane Diederich Photos
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
15 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy Billipprsquos Hand-Forged Knives
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
16 Fall 2015
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
17 Connecticut Food and Farm
ANDY BILLIPP HAS A YEARrsquoS WORTH OF orders for his Gyuto-style hand-forged Billipp Brand Chef Knives See one and marvel at its beauty hold one and instantly know that this beautiful balanced organic tool is meant for serious work The blades of Billipp Knives are seamless clean strong and forge-welded through a complex process of heating hammering grinding and finishing The hammer marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking and each perfectly-balanced blade gets a whole day of hand-sanding and finishing ldquoA chef knife will get used every single day by its customerhellip I like that challengerdquo he says
Billipp credits his parents - both artists - for inspiration ldquoThere was always something being made in my householdrdquo he says ldquoa lot of access to art supplies I made a lot of swordsrdquo This boyhood craft lent itself to Andyrsquos need to make his art useful and expressive these two forcesinfluence his life After a brief stint hand-forging hunting knives Andy switched to Gyuto-style chef knives because of their constant use Even though he has only been at it for five years (first in Colorado then in Newington CT) his success is evident in his backlog of orders Feeling the way their balance belies their actual weight explains why Andyrsquos knives are in demand
Of all the knives on the market chef knives get used the most
organic tools are meant for serious work
See one and marvel at its beauty hold oneand instantly know these beautiful balanced
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
18 Fall 2015
Billipp is modest about his work but purposeful in his explanation of his forging methods In jeans and a tee shirt his calm presence his desire for organized workstations and an honest and useful end product make Andyrsquos knives clear extensions of his personality Since he and his wife moved to 61-acre Eddy Farm in Newington CT he has continued knife-making even while running the farm and farm stand He laughs at his own admis-sion of enjoying hammering hot metal smiles because he knows the physicality of blacksmithing pulls him into this complex process and acknowledges the part of him that enjoys the physical work of using tools to create more tools
Standing in the old farm machine shop and examining long thin bars of metal Andy has to touch the material he discusses Converted into his forge the shop has large machines spaced safely about on the cement floor Itrsquos not spacious but therersquos room to work safely and furnace the steel into its most basic form before heading to his work-shop Most of the equipment in the forge was surprisingly found on Craigslist For example Andy has a 100-year-old power hammer from a woman who moved her blacksmith studio from Connecticut to Idaho Rather than transport the massive piece she sold it to Andy His anvil and several other tools were left on the farm
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
19 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prior to devoting most of his time to kitchen knives he blacksmithed fireplace screens hooks and pot-racks As a metal worker he makes what he needs
In the back of the forge next to the stairs Andy lifts the end of one steel bar so it rises off the step as he explains that ldquo52100rdquo steel (also used to make massive ball-bearings in locomotive engines) is the most in-demand for knife makers The second variety that Andy uses Damascus is made from several hundred layers of steel that he forge-welds together by repeat- edly stacking heating and pound-ing The forge itself ndash essentially a heavily-insulated box ldquothat you shoot a flame intordquo ndash maintains a temper- ature up to 2000degF His language is specific when discussing the techniques knowing the difference between shades of temperature using different hammers and ldquomov-ingrdquo metal instead of ldquopoundingrdquo it His language reveals a pride in his work and a desire to have his art understood Yet when asked why he forges knives instead of cutting them in the stock-removal style he admits ldquoIrsquove always liked forging because of the processhelliphitting hot metal is just so coolhellip everyone wants to be the blacksmithrdquo Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweetrdquo
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
20 Fall 2015
Andy refers to the next heat-treating step as the most difficult since the steel has already been ldquomovedrdquo the knife has taken its basic form In this step ldquothe things that are happening in the steel that make it a success are not visiblerdquo He uses a programmable ceramic oven to get consistent results as he hardens the knife setting temperature and times Afterward Andy plunges the knife into an oil specifically de-signed to quench the hot metal and pull the heat out without altering the structure of the steel Next he does some of the rougher pro-filing on the knife to clean up the edge and to stamp it with his brand name The stamp by the way was also purchased on Craigslist
Andyrsquos workshop in another building across the farm has a rough wooden table in the middle and a clean workbench along two walls Above on one wall varied long belts of what appear to be colored sandpaper are hung but Andy explains that these are actually strips of cloth backing covered by different gradations of ceramic grit He starts the grind-ing process with belts of larger grit on his mo-torized grinder then moves up to the finer ones to buff the deeper scratches He then sands the knife at another clamp with sandpaper and various sanding blocks ldquoWhat I want is a seamless and clean finishrdquo which describes the finished product perfectly He admits to spend-ing a whole day hand-sanding and finishing the blade alone The result looks ldquoorganicrdquo as he says smooth near the edge rough towards the top from the hammering ndash aka the firescale As he puts it ldquothe story of how the knife was made is evident in the piecerdquo In the last step Andy shapes the wood handle and attaches it to the blade with a custom-designed brass bolster to strengthen the knife Once attached
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand The marks from that process are still on it
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
22 Fall 2015
Andy shapes the handle on the grinder works his way through the machine grits and finishes by hand Once he cuts an elegant leather sheath it is ready to be shipped to the customer
The physical joy of heating pounding grinding and refining steel along with the pride in producing traditional functional art is what drives Andy to continually hone his craft ldquoThe reason I forge is that it is very visible on the knives Obviously this was made by hand the marks from that process are still on it They are geometrically beneficial as well the marks and the shape of the blade prevent food from sticking as the knife slices His Gyuto chef knives become easy extensions of the hand
Andy Billipp strives to make knives that make for beautiful balanced organic useful tools that reveal their past mdash which in effect mir-ror his artistic journey The rougher surface at the top of the blade symbolizes the small boy pointing a wooden sword the smooth sharp well-finished tip represents the blacksmith ldquoIf yoursquore buying a handmade piece it ought to show in some way that it wasnrsquot made in a factory But how do you show that without having mistakes in it I like the rustic style of things I want to strike a balance between rustic and refinedrdquo His response to his year-long waiting list Andy says ldquopeople want to buy the knives so Irsquoll keep making themrdquo
Andy Billipprsquos hand-forged Damascus-Clad or Mono-Steel Gyuto Knives are available at wwwBillippknivescom
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
23 Connecticut Food and Farm
Andy has a serious dedication to his craftrsquos traditions then just as easily steps back and laughs at himself ldquoTo pound on stuff is sweet
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
24 Fall 2015
Amy Benson
by Wayne M HansenAmy Benson June Mita Winter Caplanson Photos
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
25 Connecticut Food and Farm
arlic is a perennial but it is grown as an annual planted in the autumn It
is not difficult to grow but as with almost everything attention to detail reaps the best results
Generally speaking there are three easily- distinguished types of garlic Soft Neck Hard Neck (also referred to as Stiff Neck) and Elephant Soft Necks are most commonly found in the supermarket larger cloves surround smaller cloves in a bulb Hard Necks feature four to eight larger cloves around a central stem Elephant garlic which is more closely-related to leeks has very large bulbs and the cloves also surround a stem Being much milder than true garlic it is best when roasted baked or even sliced raw in a salad
Many varieties of Soft and Hard Neck are out there but there is only one style of Elephant garlic Try two or three varieties to see what you like and what works best for you I find the Porcelain or Continental varieties such as German Extra-Hardy are easy to grow and give great results
SOIL PREPARATION Good garden soil with a pH of seven or greater is best Bury any green-manure crop a couple of weeks before planting I try to apply compost to the bed and linseed meal green-sand and Azomite to the row
SEED SELECTION As a rule plant the largest cloves selected from the largest bulbs Save the smaller cloves for kitchen use or plant for spring greens Bulbs 2rdquo or larger in diameter work best Remember that garlic acclimates seed from a local source is often your finest bet If you try seed foreign to your region for example from the West Coast replant it for a couple of years even if it doesnrsquot do well right away ldquoPoprdquo the cloves one day or less before planting
An Organic Farmerrsquos Tips for Growing Great Garlic
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
ldquo Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes
are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make
a dynamite pesto
26 Fall 2015
PLANTING I try to plant during the last two weeks of October this allows some root growth and minimum top growth before the ground freezes Too much top growth can lead to winter kill when the truly cold weather hits
I plant cloves with the root end down and the base about 3rdquo below the surface I space the cloves 5rdquo apart in rows 1 apart I use a six-foot dibble board for even spacing and to save time in a large planting (I plant about 3500 row feet) Smaller plantings can be punched out with the handle of a hoe For Elephant garlic I place the cloves 1rsquo apart in rows 18rdquo apart Make sure that the root end of the clove is down It will grow upside-down with the stem coming up in a J-shape and the roots like an umbrella The energy required for that reduces the bulb size
I cover the holes using a wheel hoe with a small cultivator shovel on each side of the row pushing dirt up over the holes I mark varieties plainly on a stout steak and mulch right away with 4rdquo ndash 6rdquo of loose straw (more on Elephant garlic)
EARLY SPRING CARE After the harshest weather is over (commonly in late March) check to see that all the bulbs are sending up leaves some varieties will show before others If the majority is up but there are gaps in the spacing check to see if the leaves have grown sideways under the mulch If so just lift them upright
At 3rdquo or so of top growth (usually in April) spray with Neptunersquos Harvest Fish Hydrolyzate or fish with kelp Doing this every three weeks or so has worked well for me as garlic likes plenty of nitrogen Blood meal is a good source spread between the rows
June Mita
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
ldquo Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot
Like other alliums garlic does not compete
well with weeds
27 Connecticut Food and Farm
June Mita
LATE SPRING CARE Irrigate if it is a dry spring I use drip lines atop the straw Stop irrigating about mid-June
Scapes flower buds that grow up out of the stems of Hard Neck and Elephant garlic should be snapped or cut off to get good bulb size The scapes appear around the second week in June I begin to take them off as soon as they are a couple of inches above the top leaf before the buds have swollen too much
Minced and stored in the refrigerator garlic scapes are a nice addition to salads or dressings and they make a dynamite pesto Add them to cooked dishes late in the preparation as their flavor fades quickly with heat Scapes are excellent raw in sour cream as a dip They will keep a few weeks or longer refrigerated in plastic whole or minced minced will freeze for winter holiday dips Sheep and goats go wild for them as well
Be sure to keep weeds out of the garlic plot Like other alliums garlic does not compete well with weeds Straw mulch will keep most of them down but occasional hand work may be necessary
HARVEST AND STORAGE Garlic top growth ends about June 22 in the North-east at that point the energy goes to the bulb David Stern of the Garlic Seed Foun-dation advises harvesting within 30 days after that date He also explains that most people harvest too early and that when garlic is at its harvest peak the bulbs will show a tiny space between the stem and the cloves You can only know this by cutting through a bulb I have always gone by the ldquosix green leaves rulerdquo When the sixth leaf from the top begins to brown
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
28 Fall 2015
Farm to Hearth Bread at Cafemantic Winter Caplanson Photo
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
29 Connecticut Food and Farm
itrsquos ready In my experience this takes place during the second and third weeks of July
With a garden cart at hand plunge a spading fork alongside the garlic row and pull back to loosen the plants Do this for a few feet then pull up the bulbs by the stalks and brush away any clumps of heavy dirt Stack the bulbs in the cart and move into storage Your storage shedcontainer should never ever be left in strong sunshine
Using loops of twine gather six or eight plants into a bunch and secure it at one end of the loop a second bunch at the other then hang the two connected bunches over a nail
Garlic needs a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight Another suggestion from David Stern is to wash the bulbs under the spray from a hose nozzle Dunking in a bucket is likely to spread any disease present Spraying is done before hanging This leaves the garlic whiter and saves cleaning
After the garlic is hung particularly in humid conditions a fan can help I use a 20rdquo window fan in each of the three bays of my carriage shed to keep the air moving If you choose to wash the bulbs I feel using a fan is especially important The bulbs are cured enough for storage when the stem is dry 5rdquo above the clove tops
I usually cut and store them in clean onion bags at 55deg to 65deg F in a well-aerated area out of direct sunlight You can also store garlic with the stem on if you have room or braid bunches I recommend braiding Soft Necks soon after harvest while the tops are still pliable Hard Necks can be braided
June Mita
using twine at any time Most varieties of garlic will store four to eight months or longer after curing Elephant garlic often lasts longer still
For further study read Growing Great Garlic by Ron L Engeland and become a member of the Garlic Seed Foundtion To learn more about festival l ist ings recipes and growing tips or to receive the Foundationrsquos newsletter The Garlic Press visit httpwwwgarlicseedfoundationinfo
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
31 Connecticut Food and Farm
learned to cook when I was about twelve years old My mother knowing responsibility was good for kids assigned each of her children a separate part of the house and through some mysterious prescience settled me in the kitchen I should probably thank her every day for that decision because I quickly entrenched myself in the world of bubbling pots and searing pans While my sister devoted herself to becoming an expert in the laundry room and my brother sorted out the garage and mowed the lawn I explored the spice cabinet
I donrsquot know what was running through the minds of other middle-schoolers but I was usually contem- plating how I could bring life to the wizened carrots in the bottom of the crisper drawer (I glazed them with orange juice) or daydreaming different flavor com-binations Based just on their smells would coriander pair well with cumin Being serious and introspective I set about experimenting every success and faiure added to my burgeoning kitchen knowledge
Through teaching I try to convey to people the techniques of cooking ndash the craft ndash which is a thing much larger and more enduring than merely following a recipe With a grasp on technique a person has access to an infinite number of combinations and iterations and can create what pleases him or her the most Long-ing for roasted curried squash but only have carrots or sweet potatoes Theyrsquoll work One must have presence in the kitchen paying attention to everything that is happening and opening up onersquos senses Onions will tell you when they are finished sauteacuteing by their smell cel-ery likes being chopped and lets up a satisfying ldquoshunkrdquo with each downward thrust of a blade steaks announce their doneness with a gentle prod
by Amelia Lord
Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
32 Fall 2015
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
33 Connecticut Food and Farm
love this soup itrsquos warm rich earthy and satisfying Itrsquos also quick especially if you decide to cook the mushrooms simultaneously alongside the vegetables in a separate pan It means one more dish to wash (Although yoursquore cooking right Hopefully it isnrsquot you) but makes short work of getting dinner together
Therersquos the idea that for a good soup you must have a good stock Irsquom not an ascriber to this philosophy exactly I find using chicken stock here muddies the flavors slightly I prefer a cleaner finish Feel free to reserve the soaking liquid from the rehydrated mush-rooms as the cooking fluid (straining first to remove any grit) and top off with water There will be plenty of flavor from the ingredients alone If you really canrsquot resist using stock go ahead and boil some onion skins cloves of garlic half a stalk of celery and some parsley stalks with a bay leaf for about 15 minutes Strain use and be content Whatever you do please resist the temptation to use a shelf-stable container of chicken- vegetable- or beef-flavored water from the grocery store They make everything taste the same and they are an unnecessary expenditure
You can make this soup using only fresh mushrooms but I love the extra depth of flavor and richness that comes from cooking with dried as well Mince the stems of the fresh mushrooms and cook them along side their rounded tops Test the stems of the dried mushrooms after rehydrating If they are tender chop the mushrooms and use them in their entirety If the stems are tough (which can be the case particularly with Shiitake) you can discard them or save them for homemade stock Dried Black Trumpet mushrooms are gloriously delicious and my favorite to use although dried Shiitakes (easy to find in massive bags at Asian markets) or any ldquogourmet mixrdquo are fine
Although Irsquom not huge on staunch recipes I under-stand their necessity and I encourage you to be fairly free with the one below My students learn how to trust their instincts and develop basic practices to guide them through the kitchen A flexible approach to quantity will yield approximately the same result as itrsquos a forgiving recipe Adjust it as you like after giving it a try
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
34 Fall 2015
Half of a medium sized carrot peeled and chopped
3 shallots minced
3 cloves of garlic minced
One stalk celery chopped
3 c chopped mushrooms (I use a combination of White Button and Portabello)
1 large handful of dried mushrooms
1 tsp fresh rosemary minced
12 c cooked wild rice
Butter
Salt and pepper
1 bay leaf
1 glass of dry white wine (optional)
Water
4 Tbsp fresh parsley roughly chopped
Boil the water and pour over the dried mushrooms in a heat-resistant bowl Steep for 15 minutes and chop
In a large sauteacute pan or heavy-bottomed pot melt two Tbsp of butter over medium
heat Sauteacute the shallots celery carrots and garlic until all but the carrots are soft and translucent Remove all from pan and set aside Melt another two Tbsp of butter in the same pan When bubbling slightly add the fresh mushrooms in sections being sure to never crowd the pan The aim is to sauteacute rather than steam It usually requires two steps to get through all of the mushrooms Once all the fresh mushrooms are cooked add in both the chopped rehydrated mushrooms and fresh rosemary and cook alongside the rest of the panrsquos contents for about five minutes Stir in the white wine nestle in a bayleaf and add the shallot mixture and cooked wild rice to the mushroom pan Pour in the reserved water from the dried mushrooms and enough water to not quite cover the contents of the pan Salt and pepper to taste Bring to a low boil reduce heat to a simmer cover and cook for 20 minutes If you feel there is too much liquid turn up the heat and leave uncovered A few minutes will allow some of the water to evaporate and will further intensify the flavors Season to taste Garnish with fresh parsley and serve
Feeds 4-6
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
35 Connecticut Food and Farm
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
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82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
36 Fall 2015
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
37 Connecticut Food and Farm
Catering amp Food Truck
Mercado
A Lesson in Local Inspiration
by Kelley Citroni Carla McElroy Photos Maya Oren Video
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
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er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
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80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
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95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
38 Fall 2015
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
39 Connecticut Food and Farm
It is a scientific fact that runny egg yolks are Mother Naturersquos dipping sauce By their very ilk they improve everything upon which theyrsquore served A flawlessly cooked over-easy egg binds every other item on the plate in its gorgeous golden viscosity Such is the case with Mercado Catering and Food Truckrsquos signature dish Duck Fat Potatoes with Bacon Chimichurri and a Farm Fresh Egg While their menu is constantly evolving to celebrate sea-sonal ingredients this gem stays put Looking to expound upon something that had already captured his palate Mercado Co-Founder and OwnerOperator Chef Roy Riedl drew inspiration from his former co-worker Chef Helton daSilva of Barcelona Wine Bar who commonly cooked potatoes in duck fat ldquoThey blew my mindrdquo said Riedl ldquoThey provide a better flavor profile they stay soft and creamy on the inside and have an impeccable crust I knew I wanted to use them as a base for a Mercado dishrdquo
Originally served with a simple jalapeno Con-fit ndash spicy Jalapeno peppers high-quality extra virgin olive oil and garlic ndash it was certainly tasty but Riedl wasnrsquot completely in love So in clas-sic left-brained gastronomic style he started daydreaming He pondered the combination of French fries and vinegar and why it appealed to so many The acidity in Chimichurri ndash a staple condiment in the Basque region of Spain ndash provided the tang reminiscent of vinegar which Riedl sought to showcase And the bacon part Thatrsquos just because he had bacon on hand when he was formulating the recipe I can only speak for myself of course but Irsquom absolutely fine with that explanation
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
40 Fall 2015
As he and his wife Mercado Co-Founder Heather Riedl prepared for the Connecticut Farm amp Folk Festival last summer Roy wanted to add an element that paid tribute to the eventrsquos location and the businessrsquos hometown Glas tonbury The answer Local eggs Gently crack one of those puppies on the flat top while its sizzling layer crispy duck fat potatoes and bacon Chimichurri then slide the eggs atop Sprinkle with some freshly-chopped chives and yoursquove got yourself a dish you wonrsquot even share with your own children (Irsquom serious my dad legit wouldnrsquot give me any)
I digress Every artist can name someone some event or sometime that stirred something in them early in life For Riedl it was his paternal grandmother of German descent While he ad-mits it wasnrsquot her specific dishes that sparked his interest in cooking it was the concept of com-munity and provision Just before her passing she told me that all she wanted to was to cook a Christmas dinner for the whole family That stuck with merdquo he said
After earning his Culinary Arts degree from Johnson and Wales University in Providence RI Riedl found a place for himself in the local food culture by working as the Sous Chef at Barcelona Wine Bar As part of his orientation he spent a week grazing his way through Spain with the restaurantrsquos Culinary and Beverage Directors While the ingredients themselves left a lasting impression it was more so the Spanish approach to cooking that resonated the loudest Its bare-bones methodology and stress on technique became etched in Riedlrsquos memory and served as a theology after which Mercado was modeled
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
41 Connecticut Food and Farm
There are growing pains that cause stress
and worry and there are serendipitous
achievements that affirm your work touches people
that they want more
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
42 Fall 2015
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
43 Connecticut Food and Farm
At the onset of Mercadorsquos birth Roy and Heather envisioned owning a catering business whose menu options were dictated by the seasons which used a commercial kitchen space for preparation The truck came after the fact with the intention that it would serve as a means of sampling and promotion for potential private-party customers That notion has since pulled a 180 After deciding that the kitchen wasnrsquot conducive to catering the Riedls chose to move in a different direction ldquoYou shut the door or you find another way rightrdquo commented Roy They bought a truck called a friend to help customize it and got to work Theyrsquove had so much success with the truck ndash specifically in the farmers market and festival scene ndash that it seems hard to believe that they didnrsquot see it coming
Itrsquos the best part about running a fledging business Roy explained There are growing pains that cause stress and worry and there are serendipitous achievements that affirm your work touches people that they want more Roy uses the truck itself as an example ldquoI chose my equipment to mirror a production line just like it is in restaurants I have an 18rdquo flat top a fryer and six burners Some trucks have twice thatrdquo he said His set-up lends itself well to the cooking portion and has presented some lim-itations in the vending part ldquoIrsquom learning why trucks have the gear that they do versus com-mercial kitchensrdquo I found his candid advice refreshing ldquoI try and teach other up-and- coming small business owners that there are always going to be moments when you feel like yoursquore winging it You learn as you gordquo
Roy gives a tremendous amount of credit for his feats to Gutt Family Farm on Addison Road in Glastonbury Not only has he known the
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
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70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
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75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
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80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
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84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
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88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
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95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
44 Fall 2015
wwwmercadofoodscom
family since childhood he lives near them now as well Itrsquos not just that they have according to my favorite trustworthy Yelper ldquothe best corn in the staterdquo they only sell what they grow or raise stunning pick-your-own wildflowers brightly-colored zucchini and yellow squash tender eggplant crunchy cukes and green beans a variety of peppers fresh herbs and eggs ndash all at an old-school farm stand that still uses the honor system In a business cli-mate where some farm stands sell items they do not make or grow on-site itrsquos paramount for Roy and Heather that Gutt Family Farm steers clear of that practice As he was searching for a more tactful way to describe the Farmrsquos stringency Roy gave up and kept it real ldquoThey just give a shit you knowrdquo
I do know Roy Thatrsquos why Mercadorsquos Blistered Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt Pork Belly Sliders and Grilled Corn amp Heirloom Tomato Salad have already made a fan out of me As Mer-cados popularity grows so will the workload and logistics But Irsquom not worried about Roy and Heatherrsquos ability to navigate the twists and turns of a growing audience and an ever-chang-ing menu When Roy and I had a chance to speak last month one of his hands was holding the phone the other was feeding a baby (His six-month old son was happily babbling in the background) his voice was telling me his story and his mind was on all three Royrsquos ability to juggle his focus with agility and efficiency makes him an asset in the kitchen no doubt But I think it also proves that he was meant to be there
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
Learn more about Mercado and see Chef Riedl in action Click here for exclusive video by Mojalvo
45 Connecticut Food and Farm
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
Lucky Girls
By Jessica Giordani Lucky Girl Bakery Winter Caplanson Photos Food Styling Melinda Kuzmak Garnet Leigh Designs
Favorite Piesfor
Harvest Time
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
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68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
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70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
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80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
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89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
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92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
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95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
48 Fall 2015
Autumn may be my very favorite season for baking (and eating ) piesThe days are shorter the nights a bit cooler and there is a bounty of beautiful fruits and gourds just waiting to be bathed in warm spices and tucked away in buttery flaky pastry dough Fall baking tends to be steeped in tradition As we gather with family and friends to celebrate holidays and harvests alike we reach for well-loved recipes Dog-eared cookbooks and faded handwritten notes on treasured slips of paper guide us in creating the comfort food that we lovingly bake and share with one another
While we crave the warm familiarity of time tested family recipes pies give us freedom The two-part construction (pastry dough + sweet or savory filling) urges us to play with flavors and textures without feeling ruled by the exact proportions involved in baking a cake With a bit of practice yoursquoll make lovely piecrusts and then yoursquore free to play Add herbs and spices to your dough Spirits to your fillings Citrus to your whipped cream Chocolate everywhere The possibil-ities are limitless and the results are deli-cious
Cranberries bourbon and pumpkins are some of my go-to fall ingredients for baking The following pies get baked again and again for both my family and my customers between September and the New Year
Pie Dough This recipe will make enough dough for all three pies You can easily cut the recipe in half or freeze any well-wrapped unused dough for up to three months 5 c all-purpose flour Scant frac14 c sugar frac14 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp kosher salt 2 c (4 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut into 24 pieces 1 c very cold water
In a large bowl mix dry ingredients Toss cold butter in flour mixture With a pastry blender cut butter into the dry ingredients If you donrsquot have a pastry blender this is not a problem Use your fingers to crumble the butter into the flour Stop when the bits of butter range in size from oats to peas
Sprinkle chilled water over the mixture and fold together with a bowl scraper The dough will look moist and shaggy Try to handle your dough as little as possible Your finished dough should have visible pieces and streaks of butter throughout this is what makes a beautiful flaky crust Press and knead the dough into a large disk (You may break it up into portions at this point) and wrap tightly in plastic wrap Refrigerate for at least one hour to rest
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
50 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling 2 c pumpkin pureacutee frac34 c packed light brown sugar frac34 tsp cinnamon frac12 tsp nutmeg frac12 tsp ginger 1 tsp sea salt frac34 c heavy cream frac12 c whole milk 3 large eggs beaten 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 375degFCombine all ingredients for pie filling and whisk together until well blended Pour into prepared piecrust and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 355degF and bake for an additional 40ndash50 minutes until filling is set Let pie cool before pouring on Pecan Praline topping
You can use either canned solid-pack pumpkin pureacutee for this recipe or homemade pureacutees of Sugar pumpkin Butternut squash Blue Hubbard squash or a variety of other gourds If using a homemade pureacutee be sure to strain it well to eliminate excess liquid so that the pie filling will set correctly
Pecan Praline Sauce
6 Tbsp butter frac14 tsp salt (if using unsalted butter) frac14 c heavy cream frac12 c packed light brown sugar 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac34 c chopped pecans
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
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82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
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88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
51 Connecticut Food and Farm
Combine sugar butter heavy cream and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat Whisk occasionally as the mixture simmers cook for three to five minutes until mixture is bubbling and thick Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and pecans Pour over whole pie or serve warm with individual slices
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
52 Fall 2015
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
53 Connecticut Food and Farm
Prepare the Crust
Roll 1frac14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and press into a 9rdquo tart pan Press dough along the crimped edge of the tart pan to remove any excess and place in freezer until dough is firm Meanwhile grease a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover your tart pan with a thin coating of butter Press the prepared foil tightly against your chilled dough Bake the wrapped dough for 20 minutes Remove the foil If the center of the dough appears to have puffed up underneath the aluminum foil press it down firmly with an oven mitt then remove the foil Return to oven and bake for an additional 10ndash15 minutes until crust is golden brown You may use any additional dough and either a knife or cookie cutters to make decorative leaves or other shapes to arrange on your finished tart Simply bake on a cookie sheet alongside the tart shell (15 minutes or so) and remove from oven when golden brown
Filling
1 c sugar frac14 c water frac14 c orange juice 3 c cranberries (1 12-ounce bag) Orange zest 3 Tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder frac14 c dark raisins frac14 c golden raisins frac14 tsp ginger frac12 tsp cinnamon frac14 tsp nutmeg Pinch of ground clove frac14 tsp allspice frac14 tsp sea salt
Preheat oven to 375degF In a large saucepan combine sugar water and orange juice over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved Reduce heat to medium and add cranberries raisins and orange zest Cook five to seven minutes until the liquid is simmering and some of the cranberries have popped Add spices sea salt and cornstarch or arrowroot to the fruit mixture and stir continuously for an additional two to four minutes until the fruit has thickened Pour into prepared tart shell and arrance decorative cutouts on cranberries Cool before serving
Cranberry TartMakes one 9rdquo pie
This zesty cranberry tart is one of my all time favorites and is a breeze to make The tart crust is blind-baked and the filling is prepared on the stovetop
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
54 Fall 2015
Makes one 9rdquo pie
Prepare the Crust Roll 14 of the pie dough recipe on a lightly floured surface and fit into pie plate Leave a 1rdquo overhang so that the edge can be decoratively tucked under or crimped Chill prepared pie plate until ready for use
Filling
3 large eggs frac34 c light corn syrup or golden syrup 3 Tbsp sugar frac14 c packed light brown sugar 3 Tbsp butter melted 1 tsp pure vanilla extract frac14 c bourbon (Be sure to use something you would like to drink) 1 c (8 oz) of dark chocolate chopped (60-70 cocoa) 2 c of pecan halves
Preheat oven to 375degF Whisk together eggs syrup and sugars until well combined Add melted butter vanilla and bourbon to mixture Line the bottom of prepared piecrust with the chopped dark chocolate and then cover with pecan halves Pour mixture over nuts and chocolate and bake for 15 minutes Reduce oven temperature to 350degF and bake for an additional 40 ndash 50 minutes until filling is set
Serve warm or cooled with whipped cream If yoursquore feeling adventurous spike your whipped cream with a few tablespoons of bourbon
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
By Laura Graham
Tali Greener ERTDMystic Country Photos
BF Clydersquos AmeriCArsquos Oldest steAm-POwered Cider mill
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
58 Fall 2015
Sharp fall breezeS ruStle the vibrant yellow and orange leaveS overhead Sunlight falls across the late 19th century wooden buildings making the view painting-like Stone walls fall foliage colonial structures BF Clydersquos Cider Mill in Old Mystic is why people come to New England
When you step into the mill you immediately sense the tart slightly musty smell of crushed apples and fermentation Visit on the weekends and you can see the cider being made Apples are
loaded from a truck up a conveyor belt and sent down through a chute Inside overhead belts whiz around pulley wheels powered by a steam engine that chugs off to the side The massive cast iron press squeezes the apples that are held in place in large wooden racks The sweet cider runs off and is collected in troughs that surround the press
This is the real thing Four generations later Benjamin Franklin Clydersquos family continues to keep the business thriving Fifth and sixth generations already work within the business that was founded in 1881 With no refrigeration hard apple cider was standard table fare at that time and by 1898 Clyde had earned enough money from selling his cider that he was able to buy his own property and equipment and build his mill
The statistics are daunting Only 30 of family businesses are passed to the next generation 12 to the third generation and 3 to the third BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is the oldest continuous-ly-operated manufacturer of hard cider So how have they done it How have they stayed the same yet evolved to survive from 1881 until 2015 Through the kind of entrepreneurial wit that makes a great story
Sales were going strong BF Clyde and his wife Abby had their business figured out Apples arrived by freight train to the station in Mystic and hauled by a team of horses for the three-
mile trip back to the mill They sold hundreds of barrels locally and as far as New York City Then Prohibition arrived Businesses went bankrupt doors closed but not Clydersquos Pressing apples to make hard cider begins with making sweet cider This in turn ferments to make hard cider which if left to age becomes vinegar
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
When you step
into the mill
you immediately
sense the tart
slightly musty
smell of crushed
apples and
fermentation
Rita
Riv
era
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
60 Fall 2015
In 1920 home canning and preserves were the norm and so was pickling Clydersquos wife Abby who handled the sales part of the business relabeled the hard cider ldquovinegar stockrdquo What was left in barrels as hard cider was certainly not intended to be consumed before it turned to vinegar Twice federal agents came to inspect and then arrest Abby for bootlegging but she was never convicted She stood her ground and told them not to touch a single barrel of her product Miraculously they never did and business went on
When Prohibition ended on December 5 1933 however there was a bigger threat Beer had gained popularity and hard cider sales dropped There was a sales slump until 1950 when the business was handed over to the next
generation BF Clydersquos great grandnephew and his wife Jack and Barbara Bucklyn took it over and they ran it until 1997 In that time Clydersquos Cider Mill became a New England travel destination
In 1997 BF Clydersquos great granddaughter Annette and her husband Harold Miner took the reins Annette and Harold met when she was eleven and he was twelve fami-ly lore says the day they met Harold went home and told his mother that he met the prettiest girl he had ever seen They married when Annette was 18 and today they have three children and six grandchildren All of their children work full-time at the business and their eldest granddaughter started full-time this summer (Even the younger grandchildren work
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
61 Connecticut Food and Farm
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
62 Fall 2015
part-time) Annette has been at the Cider Mill her whole life Her mother used to keep her as an infant sleeping in a laundry basket next to her while she worked now Annettersquos grand- children work at her side
When Annette and Haroldrsquos first grandchild arrived they noticed that parents worried about their children drinking unpasteurized juice So Clydersquos made the switch to pasteurizing their sweet cider Theyve survived by staying in touch wih the times
Today Clydersquos sells 18 different kinds of hard cider In the world of craft beer and kombucha hard apple ciders are boom-ing but Clydersquos tries to avoids being trendy Their ciders are the straight up traditional non-effervescent type Their ABVs (Alcohol by Volume) run from eight to 12 and are aged in oak bourbon barrels The most popular are the Original Hard Cider and the Black Out Hard Cider which is fermented with raisins giving it a darker color and richer taste Other limited edition flavors include Pumpkin Spice Apple Blueberry and Apple Strawberry
Clydersquos also sells a variety of traditional products that include local preserves and honey maple syrup and fudge Annette and her family are at work before dawn to make pies apple dumplings turnovers and their famous apple cider doughnuts all of which pair up well with their Sweet Apple Cider Slushies Hot Mulled Sweet Cider is served as well
BF Clydersquos Cider Mill is open seven days a week September 1 to October 31 900 am to 600 pm November 1 to mid-December 900 am to 500 pm
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
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68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
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70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
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84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
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88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
63 Connecticut Food and Farm
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
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70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
Thanksgiving
ConneCtiCut Food amp Farm
Chef Scott Miller Member of the
Connecticut Food and Farm ldquoKitchen Cabinetrdquo
Winter Caplanson Executive Director of
Connecticut Food and FarmWinter Caplanson amp Amy Benson Photos
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
66 Fall 2015
We have a bounty of incredible local farm foods and CT-made products from which to choose What does the Connecticut Food and Farm team select for their own Thanksgiving feasts These are our TopPicks the best of the best CT-grown and made and where to find them
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
67 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
68 Fall 2015
White Gate Farm raises only 100 turkeys a year Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted Whites sent to them as day old-poults They are fed only organic feed grass and bugs and they have their own designated pasture and shade-covered structure White Gate uses the most humane methods to process their turkeys on-farm themselves and then freezes them Weights range from 12 to 24 lbs
To reserve a turkey simply e-mail infowhitegatefarmnet with your name desired turkey weight e-mail address and phone number (Also ask about pre- ordering side dishes pumpkin pies and apple crisp made in the farm kitchen) Reservation is secured with a $50 deposit Cost of turkeys is $6lb At turkey pick-up time customers choose from among the weights available
The farm store is open Wednesdays and Saturdays 900 am to 500 pm at 83 Upper Pattagansett Rd East Lyme Also shop for their own USDA Certified Organic produce including potatoes sweet potatoes winter squash Brussels sprouts spinach and more
1 Turkey White Gate Farm
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
69 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
70 Fall 2015
On Saturday pick up a selection of classic autumn vegetables for your feast at Sub Edge Farmrsquos one-day Thanksgiving Farm Shop at 1990 Town Farm Rd Farmington They will have Butternut squash Sugar Pie pumpkins kale cabbage beets carrots a few kinds of potatoes lettuce arugula Bok Choi Napa cabbage radicchio escarole Tatsoi turnips Sub Edge eggs and honey plus local apples and cider Tastings and tours are offered as well Watch the farmrsquos Facebook page for hours and directions
On Sunday join 30 producers from the Coventry Regional Farmersrsquo Market at their Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market from 1100 am ndash 200 pm at the historic Bellingham Ballroom at the Windham-County Courthouse Willimantic On the wooden stage Dan Foster will perform Old Time Celtic and Scottish Fiddle and the Irish Dance Academy Scoil Rince Luimni will dance The event will be brimming with fresh locally-grown foods for your holiday weekend
2 Fresh Vegetables Sub Edge Farm and The Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
The weekend before Thanksgiving offers two notable opportunities to buy directly from Connecticut farmers
Winter Caplanson Photos
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
73 Connecticut Food and Farm
3 Oysters The Fish MarketThere was a time when no Thanksgiving meal in America was complete without oysters Oysters on the half shell oyster stew oyster stuffing ndashndash oysters everywhere In 1621 when Governor Bradford of Plymouth Colony set apart a special day for public praise and prayer in thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest there is little doubt that oysters were included among the food items in the holidayrsquos first year
For all of our seafood we rely on a good fishmonger to get us the freshest and best product There is none better than Paul Butterfield at The Fish Market in Willimantic at 1307 Main St Look for Noank oysters around Thanksgiving or ask Paul whatrsquos best when you arrive Hersquoll happily give you a shucking lesson if yoursquore new to this
Wint
er C
aplan
son
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
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85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
74 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
75 Connecticut Food and Farm
Cornbread Stuffing with apples sausage thyme sage and pecans itrsquos the recipe our friend Chef Donna Fisher has been making every Thanksgiving since 1979
We opt to make our own cornbread earlier in Thanksgiving week with non-GMO Johnny Cake Corn Meal from Stanton Davis Farm at 568 Greenhaven Rd Pawcatuck
(Use your favorite recipe for cornbread or try Chef Sean Brockrsquos unsweetened cornbread recipe a favorite of Brandon Scimeca executive chef at Interlaken Inn at 74 Interlaken Rd Lakeville)
The Davis family has been growing distinctive White Cap Dent corn in Pawcatuck since 1654 saving seed each year to replant as the Native American tribes of the region did before them This is available at the Stonington Village Farmersrsquo Market which operates in November indoors Saturday Mornings at the Velvet Mill on Bayview Ave or through CT Farm Fresh Express a delivery service which also offers our preferred sausage for stuffing Firefly Farmsrsquo (at 96 Button Rd North Stonington) Breakfast Sausage from forest-raised Heritage breed pork
4 Cornbread and Sausage for Stuffing Stanton Davis Farm amp Firefly Farm
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
76 Fall 2015
Among our favorite Connecticut cheese makers are Cato Corner Farm (178 Cato Corner Rd Colchester) making aged cowrsquos milk cheeses and Oak Leaf Dairy crafting fresh and aged goatrsquos milk cheeses (68 Bogg Lane Lebanon)
Also we are currently obsessed with Woodstock Hill Smoked Fruit Preserves Woodstock Hill is the oldest preserves company in Connecticut (651 Brickyard Rd Woodstock) but remains among the most innovative This summer they introduced a line of preserves made with fruit gently smoked over aromatic wood Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Smoked Mango Pineapple Smoked Cherry Bomb Smoked Strawberry with aged Balsamic Vinegar and Smoked Pear Preserve
5 Connecticut Cheese Plate Cato Corner Farm Oak Leaf Dairy and Woodstock Hill Preserves
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
77 Connecticut Food and Farm
Amy Benson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
78 Fall 2015
We charged cheese maker Mark Gillman of Cato Corner Farm with creating some Thanksgiving cheese plate suggestions showcasing all three makers Here are the results
Smoked Cherry Preserve pairs wonderfully with a mild creamy cheese like Cato Dutch Farmstead or fresh Chevre from Oak Leaf served on a water cracker or plain sourdough bread
Serve Smoked Pear Preserve with Cato Bloomsday or Oak Leaf Aged Goatrsquos Milk Cheddar and some toasted almonds Try serving the cheese on a slice of a crisp Bosc pear with the preserve spread on top
Mark suggests serving Cato Corner Aged Bloomsday with Smoked Mango Pineapple Preserve The cheddar-y bite of the cheese
balances the fruit flavor nicely Serve on a slice of apple - something crisp but with moderate sweetness like Empire or Rome this combo handles walnuts well
Cato Corner Hooligan is a fabulous pairing with Smoked Peach Bourbon Chipotle Preserves The cheese is strong enough to handle the pepper heat and still shine through
Finally serve Cato Corner Black Ledge Blue with Smoked Strawberry with Balsamic Vinegar Preserve and a slice of raisin-walnut sourdough Try to sneak a slice of an Empire apple between the cheese and the bread
Cato Corner and Oak Leaf Dairy cheeses and Woodstock Hill Preserves will all be available at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Winter Caplanson
Wint
er C
aplan
son
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
80 Fall 2015
Crafted in the traditional Champagne method from a blend of estate-grown hand-picked Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc grapes Hopkins Silver Label Sparkling Wine is dry crisp and well-balanced with hints of hazelnut and fresh bread Enjoy a glass prior to dinner with smoked salmon red onions capers lemon slices
6 Wine Sparkling Wine Estate Bottles Silver Label Hopkins Vineyard
7 Beer Delicata Squash Saison Black Hog Brewery
and dill on pumpernickel toast It pairs well with Manchego Comte Gruyere and Brie cheeses Each elegant bottle is about four years in the making and only 50 cases are produced annually It is best found at the winery at 25 Hopkins Rd New Preston or purchased online
We ldquosamplerdquo plenty of Connecticut brews but wersquore inordinately smitten with Black Hog Brewery Count on them for well-crafted ales with a focus on quality consistency and drinkability They often include seasonal local produce and ingredients in their batches
Come fall their year-round beer offerings Easy RyersquoDa (session rye IPA) Ginga Ninja (red IPA with ginger) Granola Brown (American Brown Ale) and Nitro Coffee Milk Stout are supplemented by seasonal beers including THC (The Hop Collective) single hop American Pale Ale series and the
FLS (Farmland Series) which features Rosemary Dunkel Peach Gose Delicata Squash Saison and Autumn Nugget The Delicata Squash Saison is our Top Pick for Thanksgiving more than 200 lbs of Delicata squash from Waldingfield Farm Washington will go into this brew
Purchase growlers at their brewery and tast-ing room at 115 Hurley Rd Building 9A Oxford open on Wednesdays 400 pm ndash 600 pm Fridays 200 pm ndash 700 pm Saturdays 1200 pm ndash 600 pm and Sundays 1200 pm ndash 400 pm
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
8 Spirits Westford Hill Distillers Organic Rime Vodka
15 oz Rime Vodka
15 oz local cider
5 oz Amaro
5 oz lemon juice
25 oz Saint Elizabeth Allspice (dram)
1 tsp Sugar in the Raw Syrup
2 dashes apple bitters
Combine and shake with ice Pour into a tall Collins glass Garnish with an apple slice and a cinnamon stick
Honestly before we tasted this we had no idea a vodka could be so much better than all others Produced with the same care as Westford Hillrsquos fine brandies Rime is 100 organic and gluten free with no glycerin or ldquoflavor bridgesrdquo typically found in factory-produced commercial brands
Rime Organic Vodka is widely distributed in CT MA and RI at fine wine shops and restaurants Rime infused with fresh or roasted cranberries is ideal for Thanksgiving cocktails Check Westford Hill Distillers (at 196 Chatey Rd Ashford) Facebook page for cocktail and culinary recipes this holiday season or try Bartender Derek Vitalersquos recipe as served at Maxrsquos Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Ave West Hartford)
9 Pies Lucky Girl BakeryThis small-batch bakery in Preston (22 Old Shetucket Turnpike) turns out some of the most delicious desserts wersquove ever had Take a gander at their Special Order Thanksgiving Pie Menu Mexican Chocolate with Gingersnap Crust Classic Pumpkin with Pecan Praline Salted Caramel Apple Pumpkin Tiramisugrave Cranberry Mince and Chocolate Bourbon Pecan
Additional sweets for order Spiced Pumpkin Whoopie Pies New England Hermits and Salt-ed Caramel Sauce Pick-up is available at the bakery or at the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market at 2299 South St Coventry
Fall Jacket
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
82 Fall 2015
10 Granola Over Ice Cream Pure Love Granola amp E konk Hill Turkey Farm
Pure Love Granola has an earthy toasty flavor and is just sweet enough Itrsquos made by hand with premium ingredients like organic coconut oil organic coconut sugar and pure CT maple syrup from Fabyan Sugar Shack Over Ekonk Hill Turkey Farmrsquos ice cream flavors like Black Currant Sweet Corn Pumpkin or Indian Pudding we scatter one of Pure Love Granolarsquos November special granola choices Toasted Almond Espresso Cacao Hazelnut Blueberry Pecan Sugar Pumpkin Spice and Bourbon Butter Pecan with tart dried cherries
Look for Pure Love Granola at ShopRite Canton and West Hartford the Old Wethersfield Country Store The Fresh Monkee Blue State Coffee Act Natural Health amp Wellness Hardcore Sweet Cupcakes Hastings Farm and the Feast amp Fiddle Harvest Market
Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm Ice Cream is available at their farm store packed in pints and quarts at 227 Ekonk Hill Rd Sterling(Mailing address and GPS identify the address in Moosup) Check their website for hours If you make the trip also shop for Ekonkrsquos pasture-raised meats turkey beef pork chicken lamb goose and goat Ekonk is also an excellent source for your Thanksgiving turkey
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
83 Connecticut Food and Farm
11 Coffee Shearwater Organic Coffee RoastersThe mellow smooth roast of Shearwater Organic Coffee Roasters (101 Corporate Dr B106 Trumbull) hits us just right and is bound to please a wide range of coffee lovers at your place too They offer a full line of single-origin coffees and blends year-round but our pick is Toasty Hearth a signature blend of rustic full-bodied Sumatra and sweet fruity Ethiopian coffees
Shearwater is the only USDA Certified Organic Coffee Roaster in Connecticut They specialize in handcrafted small- batch coffee roasting to produce the most wonderfully aromatic flavorful naturally sweet and bitter-free coffee Shop online visit their Trumbull roastery and tasting room or purchase at retail outlets throughout the state
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
84 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
85 Connecticut Food and Farm
12 Ready-to-Eat Cafemantic amp Max Catering
Because sometimes cooking the whole feast from scratch looks less than doablehellip Who does the cooking is less important than the Thanksgiving gathering itself and we are glad to know there are locally-sourced scratch-made menu options to take home from famed Connecticut caterers
Add something extra to your Thanksgiving dinner with Cafemanticrsquos (948 Main St Willimantic) freshly-prepared holiday menu Order in advance online and pick up the day before All orders include heating and serving instructions They offer everything but the turkey portioned for 12 including appetizers breads sides such as Sour Cream Yukon Gold Potato Puree Roasted Root Vegetables Rosemary Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Applewood Smoked Bacon soups and specialty desserts Pumpkin Meringue Tart and Apple Cheddar Galette Look for an announcement of this yearrsquos Thanksgiving offerings on Cafemanticrsquos Facebook page or at wwwctfeastcom
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
86 Fall 2015
Want a chef to cook your whole feastMax Catering offers an Old Fashioned Turkey Dinner with all the fixinrsquos for 6ndash8 or 13ndash15 people Turkey gravy stuffing cranberry chutney sides such as roasted winter squash and root vegetables mashed sweet potatoes with CT maple syrup and classic green bean casserole dinner rolls and a pie Want more A La Carte items include House-made Crab Cakes Smoked Berkshire Ham and Truffle Mac and Cheese Inquire about delivery in the Hartford area
The entire Connecticut Food and Farm team wishes you happy cooking a meal to remember in a place you love best with the people who mean the most to you
Happy Thanksgiving
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
87 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
88 Fall 2015
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
89 Connecticut Food and Farm
By Christy Colasurdo Winter Caplanson Paula Deutz Photos
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
90 Fall 2015
Over the past 20 years winemakers in the North- east have made notable inroads ramping up production quality and incorporating farm kitchens tasting rooms live music and events to attract wine aficionados
ldquoConnecticut wines have been underappreciated more than underestimatedrdquo says Reneacutee Allen a wine educator and director of the Wine Institute of New England ldquoSo many people are still unfamiliar with what Connecticut has to offer by way of wineries and wines Although the popularity of the whole local movement has had the positive side effect of increasing awareness about local wines there is still room for more education I think the wines have improved more dramatically than the perceptions of them have I always tell people if you havenrsquot tried Connecticut wine in the last few years itrsquos time to try it againrdquo
Allen says Connecticut wineries are making the case for themselves that they can compete with other notable wine-producing states She points out that several Connecticut wines have recently won awards in national and international competitions Clearly these wines are thought to be as good as those from other parts of the country
The winery and vino tourism business in Connecticut has been growing at a steady clip for more than a generation bringing in $38 million in annual revenues according to the most recent report from the University of Connecticut
This September as the hills blaze into hues of burnt orange and amber wine lovers can hit the road on a tasting tour at some of Connecticutrsquos 33 picturesque vineyards many dotting the pastoral landscape of the Litchfield Hills (and others) perched against the back-drop of the Long Island Sound September to October
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson
Paula Deutz
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
91 Connecticut Food and Farm
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
92 Fall 2015
is the ideal time to visit with harvest festivals live music pig roasts wine classes tastings and other attractions designed to turn you into an oenophile
Both The Connecticut Wine Trail and the Connecticut Farm Wine Development Council Passport Program will help you chart your itinerary Be sure to call each winery before visiting as many farm wineries are by appointment only and some close down on weekends for weddings and private events
Below we stop by a few Connecticut vineyards and brought back the lowdown on whatrsquos happening for fall and which varietals and blends the owners are drinking right now
As far as coastal wineries our faves are all in Stonington with the exception of Chamard Vineyards in Clinton a lovely vineyard with an alluring farm bistro just minutes from outlet shopping Our other coastal picks include Jonathan Edwards Winery Stonington Winery and Saltwater Farm Vineyard mdash a sprawling historic coastal vineyard bordered by tidal marshes a cove and vistas on Long Island Sound At Saltwater there are 100 panoramic acres ndash 15 of which are planted with six varieties of grapes Which varietals top owner Merrily Conneryrsquos current hit list The 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc the 2014 Estate Chardonnay and the 2013 Pinot Noir Connery notes ldquoWe grow only varietals no hybridsrdquo
If yoursquore still sipping Roseacute as the weather grows cool yoursquore not alone Connery says ldquoWe find that many enjoy Roseacute year-round In fact she says Saltwaterrsquos 2013 Cabernet Roseacute is one of the top wines shersquos enjoying right now in addition to the vineyardrsquos 2013 Gold Arc Chardonnay
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
93 Connecticut Food and Farm
2012 Cabernet FrancMerlot Blend and 2013 Estate Merlot
On top of this Saltwater Farm Vineyardrsquos events including a fall harvest celebration and live music are held at the vineyardrsquos beautifully renovated WWII-era private airport hangar which makes Saltwater an enormously popular wedding destination
Amy Senew of Haight-Brown Vineyard one of Connecticutrsquos oldest vineyards set amongst the Litchfield Hills says her team has been planting Seyval Blanc and Chardonel (two white hybrid grapes) instead of new varietals and theyrsquore both worth a sip Since late 2011 Haight-Brown has been employing experienced winemakers from South Africa with bachelorrsquos degrees in viticulture andor oenology including award-winning winemaker Jacques van der Vyver Senew notes ldquothey have several years of experience working at large South African wine farms in the Stellenbosch region This has been very significant for us and a true differentiator from many of the family-run wineries Our winemakers have been trained in the science of winemaking versus having only practical experiencerdquo
As summer winds down Senew says shersquos still enjoying the 2014 Railway White ldquoIt received a Silver at the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition and is made with two of our grapes in stainless steel We used some Nouveau tech-niques resulting in a dry but very fruity white wine we pair it off its acidityrdquo
Senew who has achieved a Sommelier designation places a premium on education She notes ldquoWe really try to provide our customers with an unpretentious education of wine and cheese
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
94 Fall 2015
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
95 Connecticut Food and Farm
We offer wine tasting classes as well as a whole series on pairingrdquo In addition to education the team spent the spring of 2015 renovating the inside of the winery and the event spaces to meet demand for more private catered events Recently HBV paired up with Fasciarsquos Choco-lates and the Railroad Museum of New England to create a series of monthly Friday night wine and chocolate trains which include a cocktail hour a tour of the Chocolate Factory and a sunset stop over the Thomaston Dam Whatrsquos more Haight is planning its 44th Annual Harvest Festival September 19-20
At Sunset Meadow Vineyards in Goshen currently producing 15 different grape wines owner George Motel explains ldquoWe grow and produce all our wines on site Wersquore proud of the fact that our wines are estate-grownrdquo
Heading into fall Motel is excited to introduce a 100-percent apple wine made from apples grown at nearby March Farms in Bethlehem CT Sunset is also introducing a line of reserve wines which George explains ldquoare aged and processed in a fashion that will please the most discriminating wine drinkerrdquo Another of Sunsetrsquos winners Midnight Ice one of only two ice wines in Connecticut which bowled over the judges at the CT Specialty Foods Wine Awards
The foliage season begins in late September and the views and colors from the 35-plus-acre vineyard are truly spectacular through the end of October Motel encourages visitors to hit The CT Wine Festival at the Durham Fair September 25 ndash 27 that features a number of local wineries pouring and talking about 100-percent Connecticut-grown wines it is a quintessential autumn outing that will allow oenophiles to sample a variety of local wines in one stop
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
96 Fall 2015
Comfort is the CureWritten and Photographed by Jennifer Marcuson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
97 Connecticut Food and Farm
A cozy sweater a heavy knitted blanket a glass of red wine by the bonfire with friends and family the smell of falling leaves apple crisp in the oven and warm cider on the stovetop kids jumping in leaf piles football games and back to school shopping hikes through the woods and acorns on the ground There is something simply magical about fall in New England If you grew up here you know exactly what Irsquom talking about
Being a self-proclaimed foodie and having been born and raised in Connecticut (and spending my whole life living throughout the Northeast US and Quebec) I was thrilled when I was approached by Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine to interview my incredi-bly talented brother Chef and Partner Greg Marcuson of Cure in Unionville CT about fall comfort foods With the opening of Gregrsquos restaurant time was limited and I wondered if perhaps I was putting too much on his plate by adding this to his queue But he was excited and honored to share his thoughts and a couple of mouth watering interpretations with the Connecticut Food and Farm FamilyCFF As a chef and New Englander what does the word ldquofallrdquo bring to mind
GM Warmth family cool nights hot days starting to use the fireplaces again foliage and the harvest
CFF Why do you think we identify autumn with comfort and warmth
GM Itrsquos the time of change death before the rebirth As a farmer itrsquos the last harvest the last final fruits of all of your labor Leaves change and fall Fruit tumbles and rots so the seeds can sow themselves and come back in the spring Itrsquos a time to reconnect to the earth
CFF When you think about what happens from summer to fall and how farming and food change how does that change your cooking
GM In the summer we have an abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables at our disposal We donrsquot need to worry about from where we will get produce Come fall itrsquos time to start thinking about preserving fermenting pickling and freezing Itrsquos time to store your fresh veggies properly so you can ride them out through the winter radishes onions corn you name it
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
98 Fall 2015
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
99 Connecticut Food and Farm
CFF Do you agree that in the present day people generally donrsquot want to outsource for their produce anymore
GM Oh God yeah And thatrsquos why we (at Cure) to the best of our abilities get our ingredients locally We want our guests to know where their food is coming from and to feel connected to it And you know yeah I do reach halfway around the world for one of my products (Honolulu Fish Company) but I know the name of the captain the boat and the time and date the fish was caught Itrsquos purchased ndash if up to quality standards ndash by the company filleted on a refrigerated dock vacuum-packed in ice and shipped immediately overnight It is caught today and on my doorstep tomorrow
CFF What foods appeal to your customers at this time of the year and how are local ingredients incorporated Whatrsquos available in the fall in Connecticut
GM Pumpkin Acorn squash late harvest corn soups local cheeses and good breads Think warm plentiful sweet and savory
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderellapumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere Carrots parsnips and kale are popular as well Sage and rosemary outlast everything else in my herb garden so I play with those a lot in my fall dishes
CFF What are some of your personal favorite seasonal foods
GM I love pumpkin and late harvest corn Apples ndash Honey Crisp to be specific My favorite I love to start playing with cinnamon nutmeg hearty warm spices and braising meats come colder weather Braised lamb shank and roasted root vegetables parsnip pureacutee (hit it with a little cardamom) I love bourbon in my Cheese pumpkin as a marinade candied nuts sweet and savory roasting squash and gourds and toasting the seeds make for a nice textural addition to dishes that otherwise have a fairly softer texture
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
100 Fall 2015
I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly reflected in the kitchen and on our plates
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
101 Connecticut Food and Farm
On the colder nights people crave sweeter gourds like Butternut Squash and Long Island Cheese pumpkin otherwise known as Cinderella pumpkin When you cut into one of those pumpkins you see sugar crystals everywhere
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
102 Fall 2015
CFF Do you have a favorite childhood fall comfort dish How does that play into your inspiration as a chef
GM Mac and cheese we have one here on the menu It has house-made bacon and caramelized pearl onions Gruyere aged cheddar parmesan and Stilton blue and some nice toasted buttered bread crumbs on top that add a little bit of depth and saltiness
CFF What do you think first triggers people to crave fall foods
GM In the summer we are out a lot traveling camping and vacationing at the beach Come September itrsquos back to school re-rooting and preparing for the New England winter Comfort food to me is the stuff that warms the soul when it starts to get cold again The days are getting shorter the apples have all fallen and the leaves are start-ing to change color You need a sweater on at night I love the rustic muted earthy tones of fall we see them everywhere and it is directly
reflected in the kitchen and on our plates I think autumn in New England may possibly be one of the most exciting nurturing and rewarding times to be a chef because of that re-connection
Chef Gregrsquos approach to autumn comes through on Curersquos seasonal menu An exam-ple is the Duck Leg Confit with Sweet Potato and Date Hash The hash is made with brown butter sage and maple syrup topped with a sunny side duck egg from Sub Edge Farm and has crispy sage for garnish
The perfect beverage pairing is Curersquos Roasted Beet and Smoked Sage Cocktail made with freshly-roasted beet juice smoked sage Honey Crisp apple warm local cider and Anejo tequila
The Cure team shared their recipe for Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets served on a bed of Griffin Farmstead Goat Yogurt rosemary burnt honey and toasted Butternut squash seeds
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
103 Connecticut Food and Farm
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
104 Fall 2015
Step One Roast BeetsPreheat oven to 400deg Roll beets in frac14 c of olive oil and salt Place beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45-60 minutes depending onsizeofbeetsUsingaforkortoothpickstabthecenter of the beet to be sure it is tender through You should be able to push through with no resistance Set aside to cool
Step Two Marinate Butternut SquashPeel squash split base and scrape out seeds Rinse the seeds with water and reserve Cut the squash into 14 slices Boil the slices in lightly salted water for two to three minutes Remove slices and cover with brown sugar and bourbon Cover and set aside for 30 minutes
Step Three Roast SeedsToss squash seeds in 1 Tbsp of olive oil and a few pinches of salt Spread them evenly over a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 400degforaboutfive minutes or until golden brown Set aside to coolStep Four Roast SquashInaroastingpanplacetheroundsflatandcookat400deg for 10-12 minutes or until caramelized and tender (but not mushy)
Step Five Dice BeetsCuttheskinoffofthecooledbeetsanddiscardskinMedium dice the clean beets into frac12rdquo cubes Toss in Champagne vinegar
Step Six Rosemary HoneyPour honey into a small sauteacute pan Break sprig of rosemary into four pieces and add On medium heat cook until honey turns dark amber constantly stirring as it cooks Immediately remove from pan into a small bowl
Ingredients
1cGriffinFarmsteadGoatYogurt
1 c bourbon
frac12 c light brown sugar
3 medium Bullrsquos Blood beets (red
beets) washed (We source from
Maizeyrsquos Market Farm Stand
in Farmington)
1 Butternut squash
frac14 c plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
frac14 c honey
frac14 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Champagne vinegar
1 sprig of rosemary
Caramelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted BeetsYields 4
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
105 Connecticut Food and Farm
Step Seven PlatingPlace frac14 c of yogurt in center of plate and spread out slightly with the back of a spoon to make a bed Layer three to four pieces of squash in the center of yogurt spoon the beets on top Drizzle 1 Tbsp of honey over the entire dish Sprinkle squash seeds on top and garnish with one piece of rosemary
Enjoy - preferably with a glass of oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
106 Fall 2015
Contributorswinter CaplanSon
Kelley Citroni
ChriSty ColaSurdo
MiChelle fireStone
JeSSiCa giordani
laura grahaM
Jennifer Shaff JepSende
SoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
aMelia lord
tali greener
diane diederiCh
paula deutz
aMy benSon
Connecticut Food and Farm is lead photographer and linchpin at Connecticut Food and Farm Her camera is a backstage pass to some of the most exciting experiences the local food scene has to offer
is the editor of and a contributing writer to Connecticut Food and Farm Magazine She can also eat more pizza than you
is a writer and local foods enthusiast who recently published The Connecticut Farm Table Cookbook a celebration of the relationship between farmers chefs and food producers in Connecticut
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a reporter at The Chronicle newspaper who loves to play with her swine in her free time
is the owner and baker at Lucky Girl Bakery She believes a daily dose of coffee pie and dog hugs are the secret to happiness
of Pawcatuck Connecticut and Assisi Italy is the owner of Drink with Food a sales and marketing company that helps small suppliers in the food and beverage industry get better distribution
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
has made a lot of messes in a lot of kitchens and looks forward to making more (and always always cleans up after herself) She teaches students her own brand of intuitive technique-based cooking in the hopes that they will eventually ignore her and do it their own way
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
107 Connecticut Food and Farm
Recipe IndexSoupS
Main CourSeS
drinKS
deSSertS
isnt horsing around when you see her with camera Besides art and photography she is also a Private First Class with The First Company Governors Horse Guards in Avon CT
prides herself in her ability to tell a story without words Whether she is shooting models weddings business stock food or editorial her unique perspective shines through with her bold use of color humor and clean composition
is a writer teacher spouse and mother - but not necessarily in that order
Mushroom and Wild Rice Soup p 36
Carmelized Bourbon Butternut Squash with Roasted Beets p 106
Fall Jacket p 83
Pie Dough p 50
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline p 52
Cranberry Tart p 55
Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie p 56
SCott Miller
rita rivera Cover deSign
liSa niCholS Magazine deSign
June Mita
Carla MCelroy
Jennifer MarCuSon
His earliest memories are of wanting to be a chef and standing on a chair to cook with his grandmother He became one of Connecticutrsquos most celebrated chefs and now is a managing partner of Max Catering amp Events working to localize catering fare and deliver memorable experiences to the public
owner Love amp Pop graphic designer writer and illustrator shipwrecked in Connecticut Three hour tour indeed Loves soda pop comics cupcakes and the Bee Gees
owner Right Click Design amp Photography Vermont farm girl by birth and luck world traveler alongside artist-husband perpetual student and lover of photography and all things design
is a writer and photographer from Tolland Connecticut Her photos have appeared in Connecticut tourism brochures and have won numerous awards from art shows and local fairs
is a photographer of all things beautiful specializing in capturing the essence of children and pets She is a lover of dogs silliness and food
runs her own photography business in both Quebec Canada and New England specializing in lifestyle wedding and foodrestaurant photography Some of her absolute favorite things are bonfires eating beach plums picnics at the park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway babies love stories and adorable old couples who hold hands in public
has been a professional photographer for 15 years the last 10 in and around Connecticut Whether she is photographing newborn babies or baby goats high school football or a country fair Tali is most interested in capturing the emotion and the light that make each moment unique and beautiful
Freelance web and graphic designer She has had an eye for photography since college
Winter Caplanson
Winter Caplanson