Roots

Synonyms: root vegetables

Root vegetables are rich in nutrients, low in fat and calories, inexpensive and usually available throughout the year. Beyond that, they have wildly varying characteristics. Radishes are pungent, carrots sweet, beets earthy. Others, like parsnips, turnips, and rutabagas, have more subtle flavors. Root vegetables will last awhile in your pantry, and even longer in your refrigerator.

Substitutes: tubers

beet = beetroots Equivalents: 3 - 5 medium beets = 1 lb. = 2 cups diced Notes: Beets have a distinctive earthy flavor that's enhanced by roasting, but they can also be steamed, microwaved, or boiled. A beet will be more flavorful and colorful if you leave the peel and some of the stem on while it's cooking. After it's cooled down, the peel comes off fairly easily. Varieties include the familiar red beets, golden beets, which turn a golden orange when cooked and are slightly sweeter than red beets, white beets, and chioggia (pronounced KYAHD-dja) = candy-stripe beets = candy cane beets which have alternating white and red rings inside. Baby beets are sweeter and faster-cooking than larger beets. Select beets that are heavy for their size. Canned beets are a good

substitute for fresh. Substitutes: carrots OR (in salads) slicing tomatoes

beggar's button

black oyster plant

black radish Notes: These large, pungent radishes are better known in Eastern Europe than in the United States. With their black peels and white interiors, they can be fashioned into attractive garnishes, or you can peel and cook them like turnips. You can also serve them raw, though it helps to tame them down first by salting and rinsing them. Substitutes: rutabaga (much milder flavor) OR turnip (much milder flavor)

black salsify

burdock = gobo root = great burdock = beggar's button Notes: Burdock is becoming increasingly popular in the United States, but it's already an important vegetable in Asia. It lends an interesting, earthy flavor to soups, stews, or stir-fried dishes. Select small, firm roots. Substitutes: salsify OR asparagus OR artichoke hearts

carrot Notes: Raw or cooked, carrots add sweetness and color to stews, soups, stir-fries, slaws, cakes, and crudité platters, plus they're a great source of Vitamin A. Try to buy them with the greens still attached, they're usually fresher and sweeter that way. Equivalents: 1 large carrot = 1 cup grated Substitutes: parsnip (don't serve raw) OR jicama OR daikon (especially if served raw) OR celery (good raw or cooked) OR celeriac (consider blanching first if using in a raw salad) OR turnip (if cooked) OR kohlrabi (great cooked or raw) OR broccoli OR rutabagas (if cooked) OR cauliflower OR salsify (dip in acidulated water after peeling to prevent them from turning black)

celeriac = celery root = celery knob = turnip-rooted celery = knob celery = Germany celery = soup celery = turnip celery = céleri-rave Pronunciation: suh-LAIR-ee-yak Notes: This underrated vegetable is a relative of celery that's been developed for its root, which has a pleasant celery flavor. It's popular in France and Northern Europe, where it's usually peeled and cooked in stews or grated and served raw. Many large supermarkets carry celeriac; select smallish roots that are heavy for their size. Substitutes: turnips OR celery ribs (weaker flavor) OR parsley root OR (in salads of grated vegetables) carrots + dash celery seeds

celeri-rave

celery knob

celery root

Chinese radish

Chinese turnip See jicama OR lo bok.

coriander root = cilantro root Notes: Thai recipes sometimes call for these roots, but they're hard to find in markets. The best source is to pull out a cilantro plant in your garden, or you can use cilantro stems instead. Substitutes: cilantro stems (use two stems for each root)

daikon = white radish = Japanese radish = Chinese radish = icicle radish = lo bak = loh baak = loh buk = mooli = Oriental radish = lo pak Pronuncation: DIE-kon Notes: Daikon is larger and milder than its relative, the red radish. The Japanese like to grate it and serve it with sushi or sashimi, but you can also pickle it, stir-fry it, or slice it into salads. Japanese daikons tend to be longer and skinnier than their Chinese counterparts, but the two varieties can be used interchangeably. Choose specimens that are firm and shiny. They don't store well, so try to use them right away. Substitutes: jicama (This is especially good in recipes that call for daikon to be grated.) OR young turnip (for pickling) OR radish (not as hot) OR black radish (much more pungent) OR pickled ginger (as a garnish) OR parsnips (in soups or stews) OR turnips (in soups or stews)

Dutch parsley

Germany celery

German mustard

goatsbeard

gobo root

great burdock

Hamburg parsley

heimischer

horseradish (root) = German mustard Notes: This is a very pungent brown root that's usually peeled and grated to make a condiment for meats. Its intense flavor and aroma dissipate quickly when exposed to air, so it should be grated just before serving or mixed with something sour (like vinegar, lemon juice, or beet juice) to lock in the heat. It's easiest to use a blender or food processor to grate it. Fresh horseradish is surprisingly potent, so make sure your kitchen is well ventilated, wear rubber gloves, and don't rub your eyes. Substitutes: wasabi OR horseradish sauce (not as potent as freshly grated horseradish, so use more.) OR black radish (salt, let stand for an hour, then rinse if serving raw)

icicle radish

Japanese radish

knob celery

lo bak

loh baak

loh buk

lotus root Notes: Slices of the lotus root have a beautiful pattern. The fresh version is available sporadically; if not, the canned version is almost as good. Rinse and drain before using. Look for it in Asian markets. Substitutes: water chestnuts OR sunchokes OR jicama (This is cheaper, but has a less delicate flavor.)

mooli

Oriental radish

oyster plant

parsley root = parsnip-rooted parsley = turnip-rooted parsley = Hamburg parsley = Dutch parsley = heimischer = padrushka Notes: This is hard to find in the United States, but it's a popular root vegetable in Central Europe. Substitutes: celeriac OR carrots OR parsnips OR turnips Notes: For more information, see the Wegman's Food Market's page on Parsley Root.

parsnip Notes: These are like carrots, except that they're cream-colored and never served raw. Northern Europeans like to add them to stews, but they can also be puréed or served as a side dish. Choose small, crisp ones. Substitutes: carrot OR salsify OR turnip OR celeriac OR parsley root OR sweet potato

parsnip-rooted parsley

radish Notes: With their crisp texture and peppery flavor, raw radishes are great in salads and on crudité platters. They can also be cut into attractive garnishes. Select firm, fresh-looking radishes and store them in your refrigerator for no more than a week. Substitutes: daikon (slightly hotter) OR jicama (for snacking)

rutabaga = Swede turnip = Swede = yellow turnip Pronunciation: roo-tuh-BAY-guh Notes: Rutabagas look like turnips, only they're a bit larger and have a yellow complexion. Use them just as you would turnips. Substitutes: turnip (smaller, not as sweet; takes less time to cook) OR celeriac OR kohlrabi

salsify = goatsbeard = oyster plant = vegetable oyster Pronunciation: SAL-suh-fee OR SAL-suh-fie Notes: When cooked, salsify has the taste and texture of an artichoke heart. There are two types: white salsify (pictured at left) and the more highly regarded black salsify = scorzonera = black oyster plant = viper grass. After peeling salsify, put it into acidulated water right away to prevent it from turning brown. Canned salsify is a good substitute for fresh, but it's hard to find. Substitutes: parsnip OR burdock OR Jerusalem artichoke OR artichoke heart OR asparagus OR turnip OR carrot

scorzonera

soup celery

Swede

Swede turnip

turnip Notes: Turnips can be roasted, boiled, steamed, or stir-fried. Select small turnips that feel heavy for their size. Substitutes: rutabaga (larger and sweeter than turnips; takes longer to cook) OR kohlrabi bulbs (similar flavor) OR black radish (more pungent) OR celeriac OR parsnip OR carrot OR salsify OR daikon

turnip celery

turnip-rooted celery

turnip-rooted parsley

vegetable oyster

viper grass

white radish

white salsify

yellow turnip

Tubers & Corms

Technically, tubers and corms are swollen underground plant stems, but it's easier to think of them as the "family of potato-like vegetables." They're used worldwide as a source of carbohydrates, often taking a back seat to more flavorful and colorful ingredients.

Pronunciation: TOO-ber OR TYOO-ber and KORM

Varieties:

ahipa

apio

arracacha = apio Shopping hints: These come from South America. According to the FAO, they taste like a cross between celery, cabbage, and chestnuts. Substitutes: potatoes

arrowhead

arrowroot = arrow root = Chinese potato (this name also is used for jicama) = goo = seegoo = arrowhead = Chinese arrowhead = tse goo = ci gu = tsu goo Notes: The name arrowroot is more commonly associated with a thickener that's made from the plant. A fresh arrowroot tuber looks like a small onion, only without the layers. It should be peeled, and then it can be boiled or stir-fried. Look for it in Chinese markets during the winter. Substitutes: water chestnuts OR jicama

baddo

bitter casava

Brazilian arrowroot

casava

cassava = casava = manioc = mandioca = tapioca root = yucca = yucca root = yuca root = Brazilian arrowroot Pronunciation: kuh-SAH-vuh Notes: People in Hispanic countries use cassavas much like Americans use potatoes. There's both a sweet and a bitter variety of cassava. The sweet one can be eaten raw, but the bitter one requires cooking to destroy the harmful prussic acid it contains. It's often best to buy frozen cassava, since the fresh kind is hard to peel. Look for it in Hispanic markets. It doesn't store well, so use it within a day or two of purchase. Substitutes: malanga OR dasheen OR potato (not as gluey)

Chinese artichoke = crosne = Japanese artichoke = chorogi Notes: These look a bit like caterpillars, and they taste like Jerusalem artichokes. They're popular in France but hard to find in the U.S. Your best bet would be an Asian market. Substitutes: Jerusalem artichoke OR salsify

Chinese potato See arrow root or jicama.

Chinese water chestnut

coco

cocoyam

dasheen

eddo

elephant's ear

girasole

goo

Japanese artichoke

Japanese potato

Jerusalem artichoke = sunchoke = sunroot = topinambour = girasole Equivalents: One cup sliced = 150 grams Notes: These look like small, knobby potatoes, but they have a crisp texture and an interesting earthy flavor. You can eat them raw, stir-fry them, or bake them like potatoes. It's best not to peel them, but you'll want to scrub off the dirt. If you slice them, dunk them immediately in acidulated water to keep them from discoloring. Substitutes: artichoke hearts (Artichoke hearts are less crunchy, but their flavor is somewhat similar flavor to Jerusalem artichokes.) OR potatoes (This is a good substitute if the recipe calls for the Jerusalem artichokes to be baked.) OR water chestnuts ( These have a similar texture to Jerusalem artichokes.) OR jicama ( This is less expensive than Jerusalem artichokes. The texture is similar, but the flavor is completely different.)

jicama = jícama = yam bean = Mexican yam bean = ahipa = saa got = Chinese potato (this name also is used for arrow root) = Mexican potato = Chinese turnip (this name also is used for lo bok) Pronunciation: HIH-kuh-ma Equivalents: One jicama, cubed = 2 cups Notes: This tan-skinned tuber has a mild, nondescript flavor, but a nice crunchy texture. It's a good, cheap substitute for water chestnuts in stir-fries. Since it doesn't discolor, it's also a great vegetable to serve raw on a crudité platter. Peel it before using. Substitutes: water chestnuts (These are more expensive and sweeter than jicama. Like jicama, water chestnuts retain their crispiness when stir-fried.) OR Jerusalem artichoke ( Like jicama, these can be eaten raw and they stay crunchy even when stir-fried. They're more expensive than jicama, but they have an earthier, nuttier flavor.) OR tart apples OR turnips OR daikon radish

lilly root

ling gaw

malanga = tanier = tannier = tannia = yautia Notes: Like taro and cassava, malanga is used in tropical countries in much the same way that potatoes are used in more temperate climates. Substitutes: dasheen OR sweet potato OR potato OR yam OR plantain

mandioca

manioc

Mexican potato

Mexican yam bean

old cocoyam

potatoes

saa got

sato-imo

seegoo

sunchoke

sunroot

sweet casava

sweet potatoes

tanier

tannia

tannier

tapioca root

taro = taro root = dasheen = coco = cocoyam = eddo = Japanese potato = baddo = elephant's ear = old cocoyam = sato-imo Pronunciation: TAHR-oh Notes: If you've sampled poi at a Hawaiian luau, then you're already familiar with taro. Many people don't think much of poi, but taro can be served far more advantageously. It has an interesting, nutty flavor, and it's quite good in stews or soups, or deep-fat fried or roasted. In its raw state, it can be toxic and harsh on the skin, so wear gloves or oil your hands when handling it, and always cook it before serving it. Substitutes: malanga OR parsnip OR sweet potato OR yam OR new potatoes

topinambour

water chestnut = Chinese water chestnut Notes: Water chestnuts are delightfully sweet and crisp--if you buy them fresh. Though canned water chestnuts are more easily available, they're not nearly as good. Look for fresh water chestnuts in Asian markets. You need to peel off their brown jackets and simmer them for five minutes before stir-frying. If you must use canned water chestnuts, blanch them first in boiling water for thirty seconds. Substitutes: jicama (less expensive, but less flavorful) OR Jerusalem artichokes OR lotus roots (especially if you don't have access to fresh water chestnuts; canned lotus roots are more crisp and flavorful than canned water chestnuts)

water lily root

yam bean

yam

yautia

yuca root Pronunciation: YOO-kuh See cassava.

yucca root Pronunciation: YOO-kuh See cassava.

Stalk Vegetables

anise

asparagus

Pronunciation: uh-SPARE-uh-gus

Asparagus has a wonderfully distinctive flavor and a meaty texture. It's often served as a side dish, after being steamed or briefly boiled. Better cooks insist that it be peeled first, but many people skip this step. To remove the tough base, simply snap the asparagus in half with your hands. The stalk should break right about at the point where it starts getting too tough to serve to company.

There's a purple variety, but it turns green when it's cooked and so loses its novelty. White asparagus, on the other hand, is more tender than green, and more expensive. Asparagus is often available year-round, but the best time to buy it is in the spring.

Substitutes: white asparagus OR leeks OR okra OR fiddlehead fern OR broccoli

bamboo shoots = takenoko = take-noko = tung sun = choke-sun = chun-sun Notes: You can buy fresh shoots at some Chinese markets, but you must boil them first to rid them of hydrocyanic acid, a toxin that causes cyanide poisoning. Canned shoots are safer and more widely available. Rinse them well before using. Submerge any unused shoots in fresh water and store them in a sealed container in the refrigerator, changing the water daily. Substitutes: asparagus OR coconut shoots (sweeter)

bulb fennel

cardoon = cardoni = cardi = Texas celery = chardoon Pronunciation: kar-DOON Notes: This vegetable is very likely an early ancester of the artichoke. Its large, grayish-green stalks are somewhat bitter, but they remain popular in Italy and North Africa. You can find them in large produce markets in late fall. Substitutes: artichoke hearts OR celery (not as bitter) OR salsify

celery Equivalents: 1 rib = 1/2 cup sliced Notes: Raw celery is flavorful and wonderfully crunchy, and it's a great vehicle for dips or fillings like peanut butter or cream cheese. Celery can also be sautéed and used to flavor soups, stews, and sauces. A bunch or stalk of celery consists of a dozen or so individual ribs, with the tender

innermost ribs called the celery heart. Substitutes: carrots (for snacking) OR fennel stalks (takes longer to cook) OR Chinese celery (This is a good substitute if the celery is to be cooked; Chinese celery has a more intense flavor than conventional celery.) OR bok choy (raw or cooked) OR cardoon (for cooking) OR jicama (for snacking or crudités)

Chinese celery = khuen chai = kinchay Notes: This has a stronger flavor than ordinary celery, and it's often used in stir-fries and soups. Look for it in Asian markets. Substitutes: celery

coconut shoots Substitutes: bamboo shoots (not as sweet)

fennel = finocchio = Florence fennel =bulb fennel = garden fennel = sweet fennel = (incorrectly) sweet anise = (incorrectly) anise Equivalents: 1 cup sliced = 87 grams; 1 bulb = 2 1/2 cups Notes: Fennel tastes like licorice or anise, and it's commonly used in Italian dishes. It's very versatile; you can sauté it and add it to sauces, braise it as a side dish, or serve it raw as a crudité. Substitutes (for fennel bulb): Belgian endive + 1 teaspoon crushed fennel or anise seed OR celery + 1 teaspoon crushed fennel or anise seed (celery takes less time to cook) OR celery + chopped onion + crushed fennel or anise seed (celery takes less time to cook) OR celery + Pernod, Ricard, or anisette (celery takes less time to cook) OR udo OR celery (celery takes less time to cook) Substitutes (for fennel leaves = fennel feathers): unsprayed avocado leaves OR hoja santa leaves OR parsley Notes: For more information, see the Wegman's Food Market's page on Fennel.

fern

fiddlehead fern = pohole = fiddlehead greens = fern Notes: When a fern first emerges from the ground, its uncoiled frond is called a fiddlehead. Edible varieties of fiddleheads include those from the ostrich fern and the less common wood fern. They're available in the late spring and early summer. Select the smallest, freshest-looking fiddleheads you can find. Warning: Fiddleheads from bracken ferns resemble those from ostrich ferns, but are believed to be carcinogenic. Be very careful if you're gathering fiddleheads from the wild. Undercooked ostrich fern fiddleheads also have been linked to some cases of food poisoning. Substitutes: asparagus OR green beans OR spinach

finocchio

Florence fennel

garden fennel

hearts of palm = palmitos = palm hearts = swamp cabbage Equivalents: 1 cup = 146 grams Notes: These are peeled cabbage palm buds, and they're terrific in salads or as a vegetable side dish. You can buy them fresh only in Florida, but the canned version is quite good. Substitutes: artichoke hearts (to add to salads) OR asparagus (as a side dish)

khuen chai

kinchay

ostrich fern

palm hearts

palmitos

pie plant

pohole

rhubarb = pie plant Pronunciation: ROO-barb Notes: Though a vegetable, rhubarb is treated more like a fruit, and it's typically made into such things as pies, tarts, preserves, and wine. It's very tart, and at its best when combined with berries. Varieties includes cherry rhubarb and the more delicate strawberry rhubarb. Fresh rhubarb shows up in markets in the spring. If you can't find it fresh, frozen rhubarb is a fine substitute. Don't eat rhubarb leaves; they contain high levels of oxalic acid, a toxin. Substitutes: cranberries OR quinces

swamp cabbage

sweet anise

sweet fennel

udo Substitutes: fennel

white asparagus Notes: Growers make asparagus white by shielding it from the sun, thus stifling the production of chlorophyll. The result is daintier looking and a bit more tender than green asparagus. Substitutes: asparagus

wild asparagus

Onions

green onions and leeks

dry onions and shallots

Garlic

Synonyms: stinky rose

Almost every cuisine on our planet has found an important role for garlic. Europeans mince it raw and add it to salad dressings, or sauté it and use it to flavor their sauces. Asian cooks add it to to their stir-fries; Indian cooks to their curries; Hispanic cooks to meats and vegetables. And Americans have lately taken a fancy to roasting whole bulbs, and then spreading the garlic like a soft cheese on bread or crackers. Garlic's good for you, too. Researchers believe that garlic can bolster the immune system, lower blood pressure and prevent heart disease, and at least some people believe that it can ward off vampires and insects. The only downside is that raw or undercooked garlic tends to linger on the breath, though many people are more than willing to pay that price.

Types of garlic include the mild green garlic, the purple-skinned Italian garlic and Mexican garlic, and the

common white-skinned garlic = California garlic, which is the most pungent of all.

Equivalents:

A head or bulb of garlic usually contains about 10 cloves. 1 clove = 1 teaspoon chopped garlic = 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic = 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/2 teaspoon garlic flakes = 1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic = 1/2 teaspoon garlic juice

Substitutes:

granulated garlic (provides flavor, but not texture) OR garlic flakes (Substitute 1/2 teaspoon garlic flakes for

every clove of garlic) OR garlic powder (Substitute 1/8 teaspoon powder for every

clove of garlic called for in recipe.) OR garlic salt (Substitute 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt for every

clove of fresh garlic called for in recipe. Reduce salt in recipe.) OR

asafetida (powder) OR rocambole OR garlic juice (especially when you want the flavor, but not

the pungency, of garlic) OR shallots OR onions OR garlic chives

Varieties:

dehydrated minced garlic See garlic flakes.

dried garlic flakes See garlic flakes.

elephant garlic = great-headed garlic = Oriental garlic Notes: This looks like an overgrown garlic, but it's more closely related to a leek. It's much milder than ordinary garlic, so it's a good choice if you want to impart the flavor of garlic to a delicately flavored dish. It's often sold in a mesh stocking to keep the cloves together. Substitutes: garlic (smaller and more potent)

garlic flakes = dehydrated minced garlic = dried garlic flakes Notes: When rehydrated in water, garlic flakes provide much of the flavor and texture of fresh garlic. Substitutes: garlic (1 clove of garlic = 1/2 teaspoon of garlic flakes) OR garlic powder (1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/2 teaspoon garlic flakes)

garlic greens = garlic sprouts Substitutes: greens onions + minced garlic

garlic juice Notes: These are sold in spray bottles or in small jars. Look for them in the spice section of larger supermarkets. To make your own: Strain the juice from a jar of minced or pressed garlic. Substitutes: granulated garlic (1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic = 1/2 teaspoon garlic juice) OR garlic powder (1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/2 teaspoon garlic juice)

infused garlic oil To make your own: Add whole cloves of garlic to olive oil and heat gently, then discard cloves. Use immediately or refrigerate and use within 24 hours. OR Combine one cup vegetable oil and one teaspoon minced garlic. Use immediately or refrigerate and use within 24 hours.

garlic powder = powdered garlic Notes: Garlic powder provides some of the flavor, but not the texture, of fresh garlic. It disperses well in liquids, so it's a good choice for marinades. Substitutes: fresh garlic (Substitute 1 clove for every 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder.) OR garlic salt (Substitute 4 teaspoons garlic salt for every teaspoon garlic powder, then reduce salt in recipe by 3 teaspoons.) OR garlic juice (1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/2 teaspoon garlic juice) OR garlic flakes (1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/2 teaspoon garlic flakes) OR granulated garlic (1/8 teaspoon garlic powder = 1/4

teaspoon granulated garlic )

garlic salt To make your own: Combine 3 parts salt and 1 part garlic powder.

granulated garlic Notes: Like garlic powder, granulated garlic provides the flavor, but not the texture, of fresh garlic. It disperses well in liquids. Substitutes: garlic powder (1 teaspoon granulated garlic = 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder)

great-headed garlic See elephant garlic.

green garlic See garlic.

Italian garlic See garlic.

Mexican garlic See garlic.

Oriental garlic See elephant garlic.

white-skinned garlic See garlic.

Ginger & Other Rhizomes

Rhizomes are knobby underground stems that have pungent and flavorful flesh. Ginger is the most familiar example, other rhizomes include turmeric, galangal, lesser galangal, and fingerroot.

Pronunciation: RYE-zome

Varieties:

baby ginger See green ginger.

Chinese ginger See fingerroot.

Chinese key See fingerroot.

fingerroot = Chinese ginger = Chinese key = ka chai = kra chai = krachai Latin name: Kaempferia galanga Notes: This ginger relative is popular in Thailand. It resembles long fingers jutting from a hand. Substitutes: lesser galangal OR galangal (sharper flavor) OR ginger

fresh ginger See ginger root.

fresh turmeric See turmeric.

galanga (ginger) See galangal.

galangal = galanga (ginger) = greater galangal = (greater) galingale = (greater) galangale = Java root = Java galangal = kha = khaa = languas = lengkuas = laos (root or ginger) = Thai ginger = Siamese ginger Latin name: Alpinia galanga Notes: Look for this in Asian markets. It's sold fresh, frozen, dried, or powdered, but use the dried or powdered versions only in a pinch. Substitutes: ginger (not as pungent as galangal)

galangale See galangal.

galingale See galangal.

geung See ginger root.

ginger root = gingerroot = ginger = fresh ginger = geung = khing = shoga Equivalents: 1/4 cup, sliced = 1 ounce Notes: With its sweet yet pungent flavor, ginger has become a mainstay of many of the world's cuisines. European cooks like to use dried, ground ginger to flavor gingerbread and other baked goods. Asian and Indian cooks prefer their ginger fresh, and they use it in spicy sauces and stir-fries. Ginger not only tastes good, it's also believed to have medicinal properties, and people sometimes use it to soothe their upset stomachs and boost their energy. Ground ginger isn't a good substitute for fresh, but dried whole ginger will work in a pinch, as will the minced or puréed ginger that's sold in jars. Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = ¼ teaspoon ground Substitutes: green ginger (not as flavorful) OR galangal (More pungent than ginger, but works well in many spicy Asian dishes.) OR crystallized ginger (Substitute 1/4 cup minced crystallized

ginger for every tablespoon of minced fresh ginger called for in recipe. Rinse off sugar before using.)

gingerroot See ginger root.

green ginger = spring ginger = new ginger = young ginger = stem ginger = pink ginger = baby ginger Notes: These pink-tipped, shiny pieces of young ginger are mild and usually don't need to be peeled. They're easy to find in Asian markets. Substitutes: ginger (more pungent)

greater galangal See galangal.

greater galangale See galangal.

greater

Indian ginger See turmeric.

Java root See galangal.

Java galangal See galangal.

ka chai See fingerroot.

kencur root See lesser galangal.

kentjur root See lesser galangal.

kha See galangal.

khaa See galangal.

khing See ginger root.

kra chai = krachai See fingerroot.

languas See galangal.

laos (root or ginger) See galangal.

lengkuas See galangal.

lesser galangal = lesser galangale = kencur root = kentjur root = zedoary Notes: This Indonesian rhizome looks a bit like ginger, only it's smaller and darker. It's hard to find in the U.S., but your best bet is to look in Asian markets. It's sold fresh, frozen, pickled, dried, or powdered. Used the dried or powdered versions only in a pinch. One teaspoon powdered = two teaspoons fresh minced. Substitutes: fingerroot OR galangal (sharper flavor) OR ginger

lesser galangale See lesser galangal.

mango ginger See turmeric.

miyoga = miyoga ginger Notes: These are flower buds that emerge from a variety of ginger. They're quite mild. Look for them in Japanese markets. Substitutes: green ginger

new ginger See green ginger.

pink ginger See green ginger.

shoga See ginger root.

Siamese ginger See galangal.

spring ginger See green ginger.

stem ginger See green ginger.

Thai ginger See galangal.

turmeric = fresh turmeric = Indian ginger = yellow ginger = mango ginger Pronunciation: TUR-muhr-ik Shopping hints: Turmeric has a pungent flavor, but it's more widely known for it's brilliant yellow color. You can find fresh roots in Southeast Asian and Indian markets, but dried ground turmeric is far more commonly used. Be careful when handling fresh turmeric--it can stain your hands and clothes. Equivalents: 1 piece fresh turmeric = 1 teaspoon powdered turmeric. Substitutes: ground turmeric OR saffron (much more expensive, and more flavorful) OR Steep annatto seeds in boiling water for 20 minutes, then discard the seeds.

yellow ginger See turmeric.

young ginger See green ginger.

Cabbages

The many varieties of cabbage can be wildly dissimilar, but most have a short, broad stem and leaves or flowers that form a compact head. The most common cabbages are green and red cabbage, collards, kohlrabi, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and kale. They're loaded with vitamin C, fiber, and possibly cancer-fighting compounds to boot.

baak choi See bok choy.

baby bok choy See bok choy.

bok choy = Chinese chard = Chinese white cabbage = Chinese cabbage = Chinese mustard cabbage = pak choy = pak choi = baak choi = white mustard cabbage = white celery mustard = taisai = bai cai Pronunciation: BAHK-choy Notes: Bok choy has crunchy stems and crinkled, spinach-like leaves. It's usually stir-fried with other ingredients, but it can also be steamed or sautéed and served as a side dish. Small heads of bok choy are called baby bok choy (left), and they're more tender than the larger variety. Of the baby bok choys, bok choy sum = Canton bok choy has small yellow flowers (sum is the Chinese word for flower), while Shanghai bok choy is a uniform light green, doesn't have flowers, and isn't as sweet. Substitutes: Chinese broccoli OR yau choy OR napa cabbage (for stir-frying only; don't boil) OR broccoli OR Swiss chard OR celery (especially in stir-fry dishes) OR collard greens OR beet greens

bok choy sum See bok choy.

Brussels sprouts Notes: These look like small cabbages, and they're most often boiled or steamed and served as a side dish. They have a rather strong flavor, so it's best not to pair them with anything that's delicately flavored. They don't store well, so use them within a day or two after purchasing. Substitutes: broccoli flowerets (cooks more quickly)

cabbage See green cabbage and red cabbage.

cabbage turnip See kohlrabi

Canton bok choy See bok choy.

celery cabbage See napa cabbage.

Chinese cabbage This name is used for both napa cabbage and bok choy.

Chinese celery cabbage See napa cabbage.

Chinese chard See bok choy.

Chinese leaf See napa cabbage.

Chinese mustard cabbage See bok choy.

Chinese white cabbage See bok choy.

choy sum This is a general term in Chinese for the tender inner stalks and flowers of green vegetables. White choy sum usually refers to bok choy, while green choy sum refers to yau choy.

flowering cabbage See flowering kale.

flowering kale = ornamental kale = flowering cabbage = flowering cole Notes: This is a beautiful cabbage used more often as a garnish than as a vegetable. Substitutes: kale (tastier, but not as pretty) OR collard greens (tastier, but not as pretty)

green cabbage Equivalents: One head yields about 8 cups shredded cabbage. Notes: Cabbage is quite versatile. You can cut it into chunks, boil it, and serve it with corned beef or other fatty meats. You can also use cooked leaves as wrappers for meat fillings, or shred raw ones for cole slaw. Select heavy heads of cabbage that have shiny leaves. Substitutes: red cabbage (This can discolor other foods if combined with them in a salad or cooked with them, but it tastes just like green cabbage.) OR napa cabbage (milder flavor and more delicate texture) OR savoy cabbage (great in slaws)

hakusai See napa cabbage.

kohlrabi = cabbage turnip = stem cabbage = turnip cabbage Pronunciation: kohl-RAHB-ee or kohl-RAH-bee Notes: A kohlrabi resembles a turnip, only it's sweeter and more delicately flavored. It's light green and sometimes sold with its edible greens attached. It can be eaten raw or cooked. Choose small ones, and peel before using. Substitutes: broccoli stems OR celeriac (especially in remoulades) OR turnips OR parsnips

michihli See napa cabbage.

napa cabbage = nappa cabbage = celery cabbage = Chinese celery cabbage = Peking cabbage = Chinese cabbage = wong bok = petsai = shantung cabbage = hakusai = Chinese leaf (leaves) = michihli Notes: Like bok choy, napa cabbage is a common ingredient in Asian stir-fries. It can also be used as a milder and more delicate alternative to green cabbage in slaws and other recipes. Substitutes: bok choy OR cabbage (stronger flavor, takes longer to cook) OR savoy cabbage (stronger flavor, takes longer to cook)

nappa cabbage See napa cabbage.

ornamental kale See flowering kale.

pak choi See bok choy.

pak choy See bok choy.

Peking cabbage See napa cabbage.

petsai See napa cabbage.

red cabbage Equivalents: One head yields about 8 cups shredded cabbage. Notes: Red cabbage tastes just like green cabbage, so your choice between them depends largely on which color you prefer. One problem with red cabbage, though, is that the color tends to bleed and discolor surrounding foods. Select heavy heads of cabbage that have shiny leaves. Substitutes: green cabbage (This tastes just like red cabbage.) OR napa cabbage (milder flavor, more delicate texture) OR savoy cabbage (great in slaws)

savoy cabbage Notes: Savoy cabbage is like ordinary cabbage, but with a milder flavor. It can often be used in place of green cabbage, and your dish will probably be the better for it. Substitutes: cabbage (This has a stronger flavor and isn't as tender as savoy cabbage.) OR napa cabbage (This has a milder flavor.)

Shanghai bok choy. See bok choy.

shantung cabbage See napa cabbage.

stem cabbage See kohlrabi

su choy Notes: This is just like napa cabbage, only elongated. Substitutes: napa cabbage

taisai See bok choy.

turnip cabbage See kohlrabi

white celery mustard See bok choy.

white mustard cabbage See bok choy.

wong bok See napa cabbage.

yau choy = yao choy = yow choy = yu choy = edible rape = flowering edible rape = green choy sum = you cai Notes: Yau choy is more tender and delicately flavored than other Asian cabbages. Substitutes: bok choy

Salad Greens

arrugola

arugula [uh-REW-guh-la] = arrugola = (in Britain ) rocket (salad) = tira = Italian cress = Mediterranean rocket = rugola = rugula = roquette = rucola With its peppery and slightly bitter flavor, arugula is a terrific green to throw into an otherwise boring salad. It can be gently braised, too. Some supermarkets sell it in small bunches, but you're more likely to find it combined with other greens in a spring salad mix. Equivalents: 1 cup = 1 ounce Substitutes: WATERCRESS OR tender SPINACH leaves plus dash of ground PEPPER OR BELGIAN ENDIVE OR ESCAROLE OR young DANDELION GREENS (more bitter) OR young MUSTARD GREENS OR CHICORY OR RADICCHIO

Belgian endive = French endive = witloof = witloof chicory = chicory (in Britain) = Belgium chicory = blanching chicory = Dutch chicory = green-leaved blanching chicory = chicon Notes: These crunchy, slightly bitter leaves are often used to make hors d'oeuvres, but they can also be chopped and added to salads, or braised to make an exquisite (and expensive) side dish. Select heads with yellow tips; those with green tips are more bitter. Their peak season is the late fall and winter. Substitutes: radicchio (similar flavor) OR arugula OR watercress

Bibb lettuce = limestone lettuce Notes: This butterhead lettuce has delicate, loose leaves and lots of flavor. The only downside is that it's usually expensive. Substitutes: Boston lettuce (larger) OR corn salad OR leaf lettuce OR celery leaves

Boston lettuce Notes: This is a type of butterhead lettuce, with soft, tender leaves. It's terrific in salads and sandwiches, or the leaves can be used as a bed for other dishes. Substitutes: Bibb lettuce (smaller, more flavorful, and more expensive) OR corn salad OR leaf lettuce OR iceberg lettuce OR celery leaves

butterhead lettuce = butter lettuce Notes: This category includes Bibb lettuce and Boston lettuce.

chicory

chioggia

claytonia

corn salad = mache = lamb's lettuce = lamb's tongue = field lettuce = field salad = fetticus Notes: Corn salad has tender leaves and a very mild flavor. Substitutes: butter lettuce OR Bibb lettuce

cos

cress Notes: This is a peppery green that's great in salads, sandwiches, and soups. It's attractive enough to make a good garnish as well. There are several varieties, including watercress, upland cress, curly cress, and land cress. Cress is highly perishable, so try to use it as soon as possible after you buy it. Substitutes: arugula OR radish sprouts OR tender spinach leaves OR nasturtium leaves OR young dandelion greens OR Belgian endive OR purslane

Cuban spinach

curly endive = chicory = chicory endive = curly chicory = frisée = frisee = frise Notes: You can use this crisp, bitter green in salads or cook it as a side dish. The outer leaves are green and somewhat bitter; the pale inner leaves are more tender and mild. Don't confuse this with Belgian endive, which the British call chicory and the French call endive. Substitutes: escarole (milder flavor, different texture) OR radicchio OR dandelion greens OR mustard greens

dandelions = dandelion greens Notes: Dandelions have a somewhat bitter flavor, which Europeans appreciate more than Americans. Older dandelion greens should be cooked; younger ones can be cooked or served raw as a salad green. They're available year-round, but they're best in the spring. Substitutes: watercress (not as bitter) OR curly endive OR escarole OR arugula OR collard greens (if cooked)

endigia = red endive Notes: This crunchy new French variety blends sweet and bitter flavors. Substitutes: Belgian endive OR radicchio

endive Notes: This category includes Belgian endive, curly endive, frisee, and escarole.

escarole = Batavian endive = Batavia = scarole Notes: Escarole has sturdy leaves and a slightly bitter flavor. Young escarole leaves are tender enough to add to salads, otherwise escarole is best cooked as a side dish or used in soups. Substitutes: curly endive (stronger flavor, different flavor) OR radicchio OR borage OR mustard greens OR arugula OR spinach

fetticus

field greens

field lettuce

field salad

French endive

green-leaf lettuce Substitutes: red-leaf lettuce (different color, but otherwise similar) OR bibb lettuce

iceberg lettuce = head lettuce = cabbage lettuce = crisphead lettuce Notes: This is prized for its crispness and longevity in the refrigerator, but it's a bit short on flavor and nutrients. Substitutes: romaine lettuce (also crunchy, and more flavorful) OR leaf lettuce

Italian cress

Japanese greens

lamb's lettuce

lamb's tongue

leaf lettuce = looseleaf lettuce = bunching lettuce = cutting lettuce = salad-bowl lettuce = lechuga Notes: With their crispness and mild flavor, these lettuces are great in salads and sandwiches. Substitutes: butterhead lettuce OR Romaine lettuce

lettuce Notes: These are mild salad greens that are always served fresh, either in salads or as garnishes. There are four basic categories: iceberg lettuce, with leaves that grow in a dense "head," leaf lettuce, with loosely gathered leaves, butterhead lettuce, with tender leaves that form a soft head, and romaine lettuce, with closely packed leaves in an elongated head. Select lettuce that has rich color and crisp, fresh-looking leaves. Substitutes: spinach (use only young leaves for salads) OR spring salad mix OR radicchio OR cress OR corn salad OR arugula

limestone lettuce

lollo rosso Notes: This mild, tender lettuce has ruffled red edges, Substitutes: red-leaf lettuce

mache

Mediterranean rocket

miner's lettuce

mizuna = Japanese greens = spider mustard Notes: Mizuna has tender leaves and a pleasant, peppery flavor. Substitutes: young mustard greens (more pungent) OR arugula

oakleaf lettuce = oak leaf lettuce Notes: Oakleaf lettuce has crunchy stems and tender leaves. There are red and green varieties. Substitutes: butter lettuce OR Romaine lettuce

radicchio = red chicory = red-leafed chicory = red Italian chicory = chioggia Pronunciation: rah-DEEK-ee-oh Notes: With its beautiful coloring and slightly bitter flavor, radicchio is wonderful when combined with other salad greens. You can also use the leaves as a base for hors d'oeuvres, or sauté them for a side dish. The most common variety, radicchio rosso (left), is round, while the treviso radicchio is elongated. Substitutes: Belgian endive OR escarole OR chicory OR red-leaf lettuce (for color)

red chicory

red-leafed chicory

red-leaf lettuce Substitutes: green-leaf lettuce (different color, but otherwise similar) OR radicchio (for color)

red orach

red mustard Notes: This has a pungent, peppery flavor that adds zip to salads. You can cook it, too. Substitutes: mizuna OR arugula

rocket

romaine lettuce = cos Notes: Romaine combines good flavor and crunch, plus it has a decent shelf life in the refrigerator. It's the preferred green for Caesar salad. Green romaine is the most common variety, but you can sometimes find red romaine, which is more tender. Substitutes: iceberg lettuce OR Boston lettuce

roquette

rucola

rugola

spider mustard

spoon cabbage

spring mix

spring salad mix = mesclun = field greens = spring mix Notes: This is a mix of different young salad greens. Commercial mixes usually include arugula, mizuna, tat soi, frisee, oakleaf, red chard, radicchio, mustard greens, and radicchio.

tango Notes: This mild green lettuce has ruffled edges, which makes it an interesting salad lettuce Substitutes: green-leaf lettuce

taratezak Substitutes: watercress (leaves have smoother edges)

tat soi = spoon cabbage Notes: This has an interesting spoon-like shape and a peppery flavor. Substitutes: mizuna

trefoil Notes: Named for the three leaves that sprout from each stem, trefoil has a crunchy texture and aromatic flavor. It's great in salads or as a garnish in soups. Substitutes: sorrel OR celery leaves

treviso radicchio

winter purslane = Cuban spinach = miner's lettuce = claytonia Notes: This resembles ordinary purslane, only the leaves and stems are smaller and more delicate.

witloof

witloof chicory

Cooking Greens

African spinach

alogbati See Malabar spinach.

amaranth (There is also a grain called amaranth.)

beet greens Notes: Like their close relative, Swiss chard, beet greens have lots of flavor and a good, sturdy texture. The best ones are young and tender, and sometimes come with small beets attached. Substitutes: Swiss chard (a very close substitute) OR turnip greens OR spinach (cooks more quickly)

borecole Pronunciation: BORE-cole See kale.

broccoli de rabe

broccoli de rape

broccoli raab = broccolirab = broccoli de rape = broccoli de rabe = brocoletti di rape = brocoletto = rappi = rape = raab = rapini = cima di rapa = cima di rabe = choy sum = Chinese flowering cabbage Notes: This slightly bitter cooking green has long been popular in Italy and is now catching on in America. It's best to just eat the florets and leaves; the stems are quite bitter. Substitutes: Chinese broccoli (similar, but not as bitter) OR dandelion greens OR Swiss chard OR mustard greens OR turnip greens OR kale OR broccoli (milder, takes longer to cook) OR cauliflower OR watercress

broccolirab

calalou

callaloo = callilu = calalou = callau = taro leaf = bhaji = elephant's ear = sag = sagaloo Notes: These huge leaves are about a foot and a half long, and they're a popular vegetable among Pacific islanders and some Asians. Many Western cooks steer clear of them, though, since they must be cooked for at least 45 minutes to an hour to rid them of calcium oxalate, a toxin that irritates the throat if swallowed. Substitutes: Chinese spinach (very close substitute) OR Swiss chard OR sorrel OR spinach OR mustard greens OR turnip greens (Discard the stems first. This

may take longer to cook than callaloo.) OR collard greens OR meloukhia

callau

callilu

celtuce = asparagus lettuce = stem lettuce Notes: This is a kind of lettuce that's grown for its stalk, which can be peeled, sliced, and stir-fried. Look for it in Asian markets. Substitutes: celery

Ceylon spinach See Malabar spinach.

chard

chaya Substitutes: spinach

Chinese broccoli = Chinese kale = gai lan = gai lum = kai lan Notes: Like rapini, Chinese broccoli has small stems and green heads (which actually are flowers) and lots of leaves. But Chinese broccoli is leafier and less bitter than rapini. It's a great vegetable to stir-fry, but you can also steam or boil it, as you would broccoli. Substitutes: rapini OR broccoli OR bok choy

Chinese flowering cabbage

Chinese kale

Chinese mustard cabbage

Chinese mustard greens

Chinese spinach = hiyu = hon-toi-moi = yin choy = een choy = amaranth = hsien tsai Notes: This is similar to spinach, only it's prettier, tastier, and more nutritious. Look for it in Asian markets. Substitutes: spinach (This isn't as delicate as Chinese spinach) OR callaloo

chop suey greens

choy sum

chrysanthemum leaves = chop suey greens = tong ho = tung ho = garland chrysanthemum = shungiku Notes: This Asian potherb is used to flavor salads, soups, sukiyaki and other dishes. The leaves are usually blanched briefly to soften them and deepen their color, but young leaves can be served raw. Add them to cooked dishes at the last minute, as they become bitter if overcooked. Substitutes: spinach

cima di rabe

cima di rapa

collard greens = collards Notes: This is a favorite of Southern cooks, who often cook them with salt pork or smoked ham hocks. Frozen collards are an acceptable substitute for fresh. Substitutes: kale (crinkled leaves) OR kohlrabi leaves OR bok choy (milder flavor) OR turnip greens OR mustard greens (spicier flavor)

cow cabbage See kale.

curled mustard

dock

een choy

gai choy = kai choy = Chinese mustard cabbage = Chinese mustard greens = Indian mustard = leaf mustard Notes: Asian cooks like to pickle this, or else use it in soups or stir-fries. If you find gai choy too pungent to stir-fry, blanch it first in salted water. Substitutes: mustard greens (more pungent) OR broccoli raab

gai lan

gai lum

garland chrysanthemum

hiyu

hon-toi-moi

jam leaf

jute leaf = West Africa sorrel = krin-krin = saluyot = rau day = Jew mallow Notes: These are tossed into stews in Africa, the Philippines, and Southeast Asia. Substitutes: spinach

kai choy

kail See kale.

kale = borecole = cow cabbage = kail Pronunciation: KAYL Notes: Kale is a kind of cabbage with dark green, wrinkled leaves. It's prized more for its hardiness than its flavor or delicacy, but it continues to be popular in the South, where it's often cooked as a side dish. Remove and discard the tough center stalks before cooking. Varieties include curly kale, dinosaur kale = black cabbage = lacinato kale, and the popular Red Russian kale = ragged jack kale. Substitutes: collard greens (smooth leaves) OR rapini OR Swiss chard (This cooks more quickly than kale.) OR flowering kale OR cabbage OR napa cabbage OR kohlrabi leaves OR mustard greens OR spinach (in casseroles and souffles)

kangkong

kohlrabi greens Notes: These can be cooked just like Swiss chard. Remove the stems first if they're too thick. Substitutes: Swiss chard OR collard greens OR kale

kontomire = African spinach Shopping hints: This African green is very hard to find fresh in the United States, and the canned version is terrible. Substitutes: Swiss chard OR spinach

leaf beet

long green

Malabar spinach = Ceylon spinach = saan choy = slippery vegetable = alogbati = mong toi = Vietnamese spinach Notes: This is cooked much like spinach, but it's a bit slimy like okra. It occasionally shows up in Asian markets. Substitutes: spinach OR okra

mustard greens = curled mustard Notes: These are more popular in the South than in the rest of the country. There are red and green varieties, and both have a peppery bite. If the greens are too pungent for your taste, you can tame them by blanching them in salted water. Substitutes: gai choy (less pungent) OR escarole (less pungent) OR kale (less pungent) OR Swiss chard (less pungent) OR spinach (less pungent; cooks more quickly) OR radish greens

nettles = nettle leaves Shopping hints: Nettles have long been used in Europe as a substitute for spinach or kale, but they're tricky to use. The tips contain formic acid, a nasty irritant that can give you a serious rash on the outside and cause even more damage on the inside. You can remove the formic acid by cooking and/or soaking the nettles, but don't try this unless you know what you're doing. If you're harvesting your own nettle leaves, select young ones. Substitutes: escarole OR beet greens OR spinach

pumpkin leaves = pumpkin greens Substitutes: Swiss chard OR turnip greens OR chicory OR spinach

purslane = verdolaga Shopping hints: Hispanic cooks especially like these crunchy, mild tasting greens. You can use them raw in salads, or cook them as a side dish. Look for them in Hispanic markets. Substitutes: watercress (milder flavor) OR spinach (milder flavor) OR okra

quail grass Substitutes: spinach

raab

radish greens Notes: These have a peppery flavor, and they're great raw in salads and sandwiches, or you can cook them as you would other leafy greens. The leaves are fairly pungent, though, so a little goes a long way. The greens from young plants are best. Substitutes: mustard greens

rape

rapini

rappi

rosella

saan choy See Malabar spinach.

seakale beet

silver beet

slippery vegetable See Malabar spinach.

sorrel = rosella = sour grass = dock = sour dock Pronunciation: SORE-uhl Notes: This sour herb is quite popular in France. They like to cook it briefly and make a purée out of it, which they ladle over eggs, fish, meat, and other dishes. It can also be served raw in salads. Substitutes: spinach + lemon zest OR arugula

sour grass

spinach Equivalents: One pound fresh = 1 cup cooked = 5 ounces frozen Notes: Spinach is packed with nutrients, and it's quite versatile. You can toss it raw into salads, or cook it briefly to make a side dish or soup. Of the two main varieties, smooth leaf spinach = flat leaf spinach = salad spinach is more delicate and better suited to salads than curly leaf spinach. Look for spinach with small, narrow stems--they're younger and more tender. And always use fresh spinach if you

can; it's much more palatable than frozen or canned spinach. Substitutes: Chinese spinach (more delicate) OR Swiss chard (more flavorful, but takes longer to cook) OR beet greens (more flavorful, but takes longer to cook) OR sorrel (color fades when cooked; consider adding parsley for color) OR kale (especially in casseroles; takes longer to cook) OR turnip greens (discard stems; takes longer to cook) OR escarole (especially with hot bacon dressings)

spinach beet

swamp spinach

Swiss chard = chard = spinach beet = leaf beet = seakale beet = silver beet = white beet Notes: Swiss chard is used much like spinach, except that it has an appealing beet-like flavor and a heavier texture, which requires longer cooking. Many cooks simply sauté it in olive oil and serve it as a side dish. Red chard = rhubarb chard = ruby chard, with green leaves and red stalks, is slightly more tender and flavorful than white chard = green chard, with white stalks and green leaves, but the two are interchangeable in most recipes. Substitutes: beet greens OR spinach OR turnip greens OR bok choy OR escarole OR mustard greens

tangkong

taro leaves

tong ho

turnip greens = turnip tops = turnip salad = Hanover greens Notes: A staple of Southern cuisine, turnips greens are traditionally served with salt pork or ham hocks. The leaves are pungent and slightly bitter, especially older ones, but they become milder when cooked. Don't prepare them with aluminum cookware, as it will affect their flavor and appearance. Substitutes: dandelion greens OR mustard greens OR kale (takes longer to cook) OR collard greens (takes longer to cook, consider blanching first to reduce bitterness) OR Swiss chard (milder flavor) OR spinach (milder flavor)

turnip salad

turnip tops

ung choy

verdolaga See purslane.

water spinach = swamp spinach = ung choy = long green = kangkong = tangkong Notes: This cooking green is very common in the Philippines. Some varieties have purple stems. Substitutes: spinach OR watercress

white beet

yin choy

Inflorescent Vegetables

artichoke = globe artichoke Notes: Artichokes are the unopened flowers and stems of a kind of thistle. You cook them, then peel off and eat the bases of the thick green petals (called leaves). At the center is the heart, the choicest portion of the artichoke, covered by the choke, a hairy pad that should be peeled off and discarded. Their peak season is early summer. Substitutes: Jerusalem artichokes (crisper; consider blanching or roasting first) OR salsify OR burdock OR hearts of palm

banana blossom = banana flower Notes: These are popular in Southeast Asia and India, where they're boiled in water or coconut milk, then eaten like artichokes. Substitutes: artichokes

broccoflower = green cauliflower Notes: This is a green variety of cauliflower. Substitutes: cauliflower OR broccoli

broccoli Pronunciation: BRAHK-uh-lee OR BRAHK-lee Notes: Broccoli is tasty, good for you, and easy to cook. The florets can be steamed or boiled and served as a side dish, or served raw on a crudité platter, or stir-fried. The stems are good, too, but you should peel them first and cook them a little longer. Select broccoli that's dark green and fresh smelling. Substitutes: broccoflower OR cauliflower OR broccoli raab (stronger, more bitter flavor; takes less time to cook)

broccoli Romanesco Notes: This is similar to broccoli, but its florets resemble pine cones. It's especially good raw. Substitutes: broccoflower OR broccoli

broccolini = baby broccoli Notes: Broccolini results from a cross between broccoli and Chinese broccoli. The slender stems resemble asparagus in flavor and texture. Substitutes: asparagus OR Chinese broccoli

cauliflower Equivalents: 1 head = 4 cups florets Notes: Cauliflower florets often wind up in soups, or as a side dish smothered with a cheese sauce, or served raw on a crudité platter. Select heads that are heavy for their size. Substitutes: broccoflower OR broccoli

globe artichoke

green cauliflower

Snap Beans

Synonyms: string beans

With most beans, you eat only the seeds, usually after they've been dried. But you can eat snap beans pod and all. Until a century ago, the pods had tough strings that cooks had to pull off before cooking (hence the name "string beans") but the snap beans you'll find in markets today are almost all stringless.

Substitutes: asparagus OR broccoli OR okra

Varieties:

asparagus bean See yard-long bean or winged bean.

chepil Shopping hints: Look for this in the produce section of Hispanic markets. Substitutes: green beans

Chinese long bean

dau gok

dow gok

dragon tongue bean Notes: You can eat these, pods and all, just like green beans. Substitutes: green beans

French bean

four-angled bean

goa bean

green bean = string bean = snap bean Equivalents: One pound = 3 to 3.5 cups Notes: These are meant to be cooked and eaten, pods and all. They're best if they're steamed or stir-fried just until they're tender but still crisp. Select bright green beans that snap when broken in half. Their peak season is in the summer. Substitutes: wax bean (different color; wax bean is yellow) OR Italian flat bean (flatter pods, excellent flavor) OR dragon tongue bean OR winged bean (less flavorful)

haricot verts = French bean = French green bean = French filet bean Notes: This is a very thin variety of green bean that's crisp, tender, and expensive. Don't confuse this with the haricot bean, which is a dry bean. Substitutes: green beans (as thin as possible; consider cutting thicker green beans in half lengthwise)

Italian flat bean = Romano bean = runner bean Notes: These green or yellow beans are like ordinary green beans, but they're flatter. Select small, brightly colored beans that snap when you break them in half. Substitutes: green bean (Green beans have a rounder pod than Italian flat beans, but they can be used interchangeably in most recipes.)

long bean

Manila bean

princess pea

Romano bean

sator Notes: Thai cooks like to add these squat green beans to stir-fries. They have a strong, somewhat bitter flavor. Substitutes: green bean OR asparagus

snap bean

string bean

Thailand long bean Substitutes: yard-long beans

wax bean Notes: These are similar to green beans except for the color, which can be yellow or purple. Don't confuse these with lima beans, which are sometimes called wax beans. Substitutes: green bean (different color)

winged bean = winged pea = goa bean = asparagus pea = asparagus bean = four-angled bean = manila bean = princess pea Notes: This pods have deep ridges, and attached leaves that open up like wings. Young ones are best. Don't confuse this with the yard-long bean, which is also sometimes called an asparagus bean. Substitutes: asparagus OR green beans (more flavorful)

yard-long bean = asparagus bean = dow gok = dau gok = Chinese long bean = long bean = bodi = boonchi Notes: These beans usually aren't a yard long--half a yard is more typical. Asians like to cut them into smaller pieces and add them to their stir-fried dishes. You can also boil or steam them like green beans, though they're not as sweet and juicy. They don't store well, so use them within a few days of purchase. Substitutes: Thailand long bean OR green bean (smaller and sweeter)

Edible Pods

Chinese pea pod

Chinese pea

Chinese snow pea

edible-podded pea

mange-tout pea

ochro

okra = ochro = okro = bamia = bamie = bhindi = bindi = gumbo = gombo = ladies' fingers = ladyfingers = quingombo = quiabo Notes: When cooked, okra exudes a slimy substance, which serves as a wonderful thickener in stews.

Unfortunately, that sliminess puts off many diners, but you can minimize it by buying small, fresh okra and by cooking it very briefly. Okra's popular in the South, where they fry it in cornmeal, pickle it (this also gets rid of the sliminess), and use it to thicken their gumbos. Substitutes: gumbo filé (This is also used a thickener in gumbos. Substitute one tablespoon gumbo filé for every three cups okra, but don't add the gumbo filé until after the gumbo has been completely cooked.) OR nopales (also serves as a thickener) OR asparagus (takes longer to cook) OR eggplant (takes longer to cook) OR purslane

okro

snow pea = Chinese snow pea = Chinese pea = Chinese pea pod = sugar pea = mange-tout pea = edible-podded pea Equivalents: 2 cups fresh = 6 ounces frozen Notes: You eat these whole, pod and all. They're often stir-fried very briefly (no more than a minute), but they're also good raw. They're easy to prepare, just wash and trim

the ends. Some people string them as well, but that's not necessary. Select crisp, flat snow peas that snap when you break them. Substitutes: sugar snaps (rounder, sweeter, and crisper) OR asparagus OR (for stir-fry dishes) bean sprouts

sugar pea

sugar snap = snap pea = sugar snap pea = sugar pea Notes: This cross between an English pea and a snow pea is sweet and crisp, and is eaten whole, pod and all. Sugar snaps can be served raw, briefly stir-fried, pickled, or steamed as a side dish. Substitutes: snow pea (flatter, not as sweet) OR asparagus OR carrots (for a crudité platter)

Fresh Beans

Synonyms: shelly beans = shellies = shuckies = shellouts

Fresh beans appear in the summer and fall, and they're sweeter and more tender than dry beans. They're also easier to prepare, since you don't need to soak them or cook them very long.

Varieties:

beer bean See edamame.

fresh cannellini bean = fresh white kidney bean = fresh fazolia bean Substitutes: cannellini bean (dried)

fresh cranberry bean = fresh borlotti bean = fresh saluggia = fresh shell bean = salugia bean = fresh crab eye bean = fresh rosecoco bean = fresh Roman bean = fresh fagiolo romano Notes: These are available in the summer months. Substitutes: cranberry bean (dried)

edamame = sweet bean = vegetable soybean = beer bean = edible soybean = garden soybean = immature soybean = green soybean Pronunication: ed-duh-MAH-may Notes: These are fresh soybeans, often sold in the pod. Steam them, then split the pod open and eat the beans inside. They're also great in soups. Substitutes: garden pea OR fresh black-eyed pea

edible soybean See edamame.

fresh fava bean = fresh broad bean = fresh butter bean = fresh Windsor bean = fresh horse bean = fresh English bean Pronunciation: FAH-vah Notes: Tender fresh fava beans are available in the fall and are much better tasting than canned, dried, or frozen ones. Fresh young fava beans need only be shelled, but more mature beans should also be peeled to rid them of their tough, waxy skins. Substitutes: fava bean (dried) OR fresh lima beans (These are sweeter, and more delicately flavored.) OR chickpeas

garden soybean See edamame.

green soybean See edamame.

immature soybean See edamame.

fresh lima bean = fresh butter bean = fresh Madagascar bean = fresh wax bean Notes: These are exquisitely sweet and tender, as long as you get to them soon after they're picked. The freshest pods are brightly colored and snap crisply when you bend them. Fresh lima beans don't need to be soaked and you need only cook them about 15 minutes. Substitutes: garden peas OR lima beans (dried)

sweet bean See edamame.

vegetable soybean See edamame.

Mushrooms

Markets stock a variety of cultivated mushrooms, but many people prefer wild mushrooms, which are often more flavorful. Be careful when picking wild mushrooms--some species are poisonous--and always cook them thoroughly, both to release their flavors and to convert their proteins into a more usable form. To prepare fresh mushrooms, first trim off the bottoms of the stems, then wipe them off. Don't rinse them or soak them, for they'll absorb water and turn mushy when you cook them. Dried mushrooms are often excellent substitutes for fresh, though some species don't dry well. You can reconstitute dried mushrooms by soaking or simmering them. Don't throw out the soaking liquid--it can add more flavor to your sauce than the mushrooms themselves. You can also pulverize dried mushrooms with a food processor or blender, then use the mushroom powder to flavor sauces and stews.

Substitutes: tempeh OR eggplant OR asparagus (Like mushrooms, this works well in a cream soup.) OR bell peppers (in a pasta sauce) OR zucchini

Equivalents: 1 pound fresh mushrooms = 6 cups sliced fresh mushrooms = 3 ounces dried mushrooms

Varieties:

abalone cap mushroom

bear's head mushroom = satyr's beard mushroom = bearded tooth mushroom Latin: Hericium erinaceus Notes: These grow yellow and sour-tasting with age, so buy only white ones. They're best sautéed or gently boiled.

black forest mushroom

black mushroom

black trumpet mushroom = black chanterelle Notes: This is a very choice, flavorful mushroom. Dried black trumpets are excellent, too. Substitutes: chanterelle OR hedgehog mushroom

black winter mushroom

blewit mushrooms = blewitt mushrooms = blue-leg mushrooms = blue foot mushrooms = bluette mushrooms Pronunciation: BLEW-it Latin name: Clitocybe nuda Notes: These are prized more for their beauty than their flavor, which is pleasant but somewhat mild. Dried blewits are even less flavorful than fresh. Substitutes: white mushrooms OR shiitakes

bolete

borowik

brown mushroom

brown oak mushroom

button mushroom

cauliflower mushroom Notes: These are very flavorful, but a bit chewy. They're good fried, or in soups or stews. Select small, young-looking heads.

chanterelle = egg mushroom = girole = pfifferling Equivalents: 1 pound fresh = 3 ounces dried. Notes: Chanterelles are a whole family of mushrooms, most of which are quite choice, but the name is most often applied to the golden chanterelle = yellow chanterelle. These yellow mushrooms are highly prized for their exquisite flavor, color, and texture. Other tasty chanterelle varieties include the yellow foot chanterelle, which is less meaty and less flavorful than other varieties, the black trumpet mushroom, and the white

chanterelle, which is similar to the golden chanterelle, but lighter in color. Fresh chanterelles are best; dried or canned chanterelles are less flavorful and tend to have a rubbery texture. Substitutes: hedgehog mushroom OR white mushroom OR oyster mushroom OR ear mushroom OR morel

chestnut mushroom

chicken-of-the-woods mushroom = sulfur mushroom Notes: This got its name because it has the texture of cooked chicken. You can sauté it or, if you want to make mock chicken, simmer it in chicken stock. Substitutes: portobello mushrooms OR cremini mushrooms OR shiitake mushrooms OR porcini mushrooms

Chinese black mushroom

cinnamon cap mushroom Notes: Cinnamon cap mushrooms have a firm texture and an earthy flavor. Substitutes: shiitake

clamshell mushroom = clam shell mushroom Notes: Varieties include the brown clamshell mushroom (left). This mushroom goes well with seafood or meats. Cook them before eating.

cloud ear mushroom = cloud ear fungus = mo-er mushroom Notes: It's hard to find these fresh, but dried cloud ears are an excellent substitute. Reconstitute them by soaking or simmering them in lots of water for a few hours. Substitutes: wood ear mushrooms

cremini mushroom = crimini mushroom = Italian brown mushroom = Italian mushroom = brown mushroom Notes: These are closely related to common white mushrooms, but they're a bit more flavorful. Large cremini mushrooms are called portobello mushrooms. Substitutes: white mushroom OR portobello (larger and more flavorful) OR shiitake

egg mushroom

enok

enoki mushroom = enok = enokidake = enokitake = golden needle mushroom = golden mushroom = snow puff mushroom = velvet foot mushroom = velvet stem mushroom = winter mushroom Pronunciation: eh-NO-kee Notes: Enoki mushrooms have a delicate fruity flavor. They're usually served raw. Substitutes: oyster mushroom OR white mushroom

enokidake

enokitake

eryngii mushroom = eringii mushroom = king oyster mushroom Substitutes: matsutake

fairy-ring mushroom Substitutes: white mushrooms OR chanterelles

forest mushroom

funnel chanterelle

gamboni mushroom = big leg mushroom

girole

golden chanterelle

golden mushroom

golden needle mushroom

golden oak mushroom

hawk's wing mushroom

hedgehog mushroom = sweet tooth mushroom Notes: Hedgehog mushrooms are similar to chanterelles in color and flavor. Substitutes: chanterelles OR porcini

honey mushroom Substitutes: shiitake OR hedgehog mushroom

huitlacoche = cuitlacoche = corn smut = maize mushroom = maizteca mushroom = Mexican truffle Notes: This is a fungus that forms black kernels on ears of corn in damp weather. It's a prized delicacy in Mexico, and tastes a bit like wild mushrooms. You can get it fresh or frozen by mail order, or canned in some Hispanic markets. WARNING: May cause contractions in pregnant women. Substitutes: morel mushrooms OR squash blossoms

Italian brown mushroom

Italian mushroom

king bolete

lobster mushroom Notes: These are actually white mushrooms that have been coated by a red fungus.

maitake mushroom = hen-of-the-woods mushroom = ram's head mushroom = sheep's head mushroom = kumotake mushroom Notes: This Japanese mushroom is reputed to have numerous health benefits. It also has a nice, earthy flavor. Substitutes: oyster mushrooms (a close relative)

matsutake mushroom = pine mushroom Notes: These are popular in Japan, but they're hard to find fresh in the United States and dried matsutakes aren't nearly as flavorful. Avoid canned matsutakes, they're even worse than dried. Substitutes: portobello (especially for grilling) OR shiitake

mo-er mushroom

morels Equivalents: 1 pound = 2 - 3 ounces dried Notes: Morels are highly prized for their rich, earthy flavor, and also because their caps are hollow, which allows them to be stuffed. Dried morels are very flavorful, and they're an excellent substitute for fresh in sauces and stews. Substitutes: shiitake OR chanterelles

nameko mushroom Pronunciation: NAH-meh-koh Notes: Nameko mushrooms are hard to find fresh, but Asian markets sometimes stock cans or plastic bags of it. They have a gelatinous texture and the Japanese like to add them to miso soup. Substitutes: shiitake

Oriental black mushroom

oyster mushroom = tree oyster mushroom = pleurotus mushroom = pleurotte = abalone mushroom Notes: Oyster mushrooms are prized for their smooth texture and subtle, oyster-like flavor. They can also be grown commercially, so they're widely available and fairly inexpensive. Substitutes: white trumpet OR enoki OR chanterelle OR white mushroom (takes longer to cook)

paddy straw mushroom

pfifferling

pine mushroom

pleurotte

pleurotus mushroom

pom pom mushroom = lion's mane mushroom = beard mushroom Notes: The flavor of this mushroom has been likened to that of lobster and crab. Substitutes: porcini

Polish mushroom

puff ball mushroom = puffball mushroom

porcino = cepe = cep = bolete = king bolete = borowik = Polish mushroom = steinpilze = stensopp Plural: porcini Pronunciation: singular: pore-CHEE-noh; plural: pore-CHEE-nee Equivalents: One pound fresh = 3 ounces dried Notes: Porcini mushrooms are well appreciated in Europe for their meaty texture and interesting flavor. If you can find them fresh, pick the largest caps you can find (or afford). Just wipe them clean before using; if you wash them, they'll soak up the water like a sponge. Dried porcini are also excellent. Substitutes: hedgehog OR chanterelle (fruitier flavor) OR portobello OR oyster mushrooms OR truffles

portobello mushroom = portabello mushroom = giant cremini Notes: These are just large cremini mushrooms, and their size (about the same as a hamburger patty) makes them perfect for grilling or roasting. They're also more flavorful than younger, smaller creminis. Substitutes: cremini (smaller) OR matsutake (for grilling) OR porcini (for grilling)

red oyster mushroom Notes: This beautiful mushroom, unfortunately, loses its red coloring when cooked. Substitutes: oyster mushrooms OR button mushrooms OR shiitake mushrooms

shiitake mushroom = shitake mushroom = black forest mushroom = black mushroom = black winter mushroom = brown oak mushroom = Chinese black mushroom = Oriental black mushroom = forest mushroom = golden oak mushroom = donko Equivalents: 1 pound = 3 ounces dried. Pronunciation: she-TAH-kay Plural: shiitake Notes: Though shiitake mushrooms are now cultivated, they have the earthiness and flavor of wild mushrooms. They're large and meaty, and they work well in stir-fries, soups, and side dishes, or as a meat substitute. Dried shiitakes are excellent, and often preferable to fresh due to their more intense flavor. Soak them in water for about thirty minutes to reconstitute them, then use the water they soaked in to enhance your sauce. Substitutes: crimini mushrooms OR enoki mushrooms OR straw mushrooms OR chanterelles OR porcini mushrooms OR white mushrooms OR oyster mushrooms

shimeji mushroom = pioppini mushroom Notes: Like matsutake mushrooms, these grow on trees. They're very tasty, with a peppery flavor. They're great in stir-fries. Substitutes: matsutake mushrooms

shitake mushroom

silver ear mushroom = snow mushroom = white fungus = white jelly fungus = white tree fungus Substitutes: cloud ear mushroom OR wood ear mushroom (less expensive)

snow mushroom

snow puff mushroom

steinpilze

stensopp

St. George's mushroom

straw mushrooms = paddy straw mushrooms Notes: These are a common ingredient in Chinese stir-fries. They're hard to find fresh, but canned straw mushrooms work well and are sold in many supermarkets. Better yet, but harder to find, are dried straw mushrooms, which have a more intense flavor than canned. Substitutes: enoki mushrooms OR white mushrooms

sweet tooth mushroom

tree ear mushroom See wood ear mushroom.

tree oyster mushroom

truffles Notes: Truffles are one of the most expensive of the fungi (technically, they're not mushrooms), but they're packed with flavor. You can grate raw truffles into salads, or chop and sauté them and use them to flavor sauces. Their flavor is complex, so truffles work best in delicately flavored dishes like cream sauces. Truffles are highly perishable, so you should plan to use them within a few days after buying them. To preserve them, add slices of them to bourbon, then use the bourbon and truffle pieces to flavor sauces. Fresh truffles are often sold in containers filled with rice. Don't throw out the rice--it was put there to absorb some of the truffle's exquisite flavor. Substitutes: morels OR porcini

trumpet royale mushroom Notes: This is a tasty, meaty mushroom. Substitutes: shiitake OR porcini

velvet foot mushroom

velvet stem mushroom

white button mushroom

white chanterelle mushroom Notes: White chanterelles are very similar to golden chanterelles, except for their color and relative rarity. Fresh chanterelles are best; dried or canned chanterelles are less flavorful and tend to have a rubbery texture. Substitutes: chanterelle OR hedgehog mushroom

white fungus

white jelly fungus

white mushroom = button mushroom = white button mushroom = supermarket mushroom Notes: These are the mushrooms you're most likely to find in supermarkets. They're good raw, but more flavorful if cooked. Substitutes: cremini mushrooms (more flavorful than white) OR oyster mushroom (cooks faster)

white tree fungus

winecap mushroom = wine-cap mushroom

winter chanterelle

winter mushroom

wood ear mushroom = woodear mushroom = black fungus = tree ear mushroom Notes: Chinese markets carry fresh or dried pieces of this tree mushroom. You're supposed to soak or simmer the dried chips until they soften, and then rinse them carefully to remove any dirt. They're not very flavorful, but they have an interesting texture and are believed to have medicinal benefits. Substitutes: cloud ear mushroom (thinner) OR silver ear (more expensive) OR shiitake

yellow chanterelle

yellow foot chanterelle

yellow foot mushroom = yellow foot chanterelle = funnel chanterelle = winter chanterelle Notes: Though not as flavorful as golden chanterelles, these mushrooms work well in most chanterelle recipes. Substitutes: chanterelle OR hedgehog mushroom

Fruit Vegetables

Asian squash

avocados

chile peppers (dried)

chile peppers (fresh)

cucumbers

eggplants

olives

summer squash

sweet peppers

tomatillo = ground tomato = husk tomato = jamberry = Mexican green tomato = Spanish tomato = tomate verde = Mexican husk tomato = Chinese lantern plants = fresadilla = miltomate Pronunciation: toh-mah-TEE-yoh Plural: tomatillos

Tomatillos look like small green tomatoes encased in a papery husk. They're pleasantly tart, and principally used to make Mexican salsas, particularly salsa verde. They're good raw, but many cooks cook them briefly in order to enhance their flavor. Frozen tomatillos are good substitutes for fresh. Store fresh ones in the refrigerator for up to a month, or cook them and freeze them.

Substitutes: green tomatoes + dash lemon juice OR plum tomatoes + dash lemon juice OR cape gooseberries

tomatoes

winter squash

Tomatoes

With their rich flavor and mild acidity, tomatoes have worked their way into thousands of recipes. You can eat them raw in salads, salsas, or sandwiches, cook them to make sauces, stuff them and bake them, or grill them on skewers with other vegetables. Summertime is the the best season for tomatoes; those sold at other times of the year are often bland. Indeed, better cooks often prefer canned tomatoes for their sauces over fresh out-of-season tomatoes. Select tomatoes that are brightly colored, smooth skinned, and heavy for their size. Don't refrigerate tomatoes--it ruins their flavor.

Equivalents: 1 large tomato = 1 cup, chopped

Substitutes: sun-dried tomatoes (reconstitute first in water) OR tomato paste (1 medium tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped = 1 tablespoon tomato paste ) OR roasted red peppers OR tomatillos OR mangos (in salsas) OR papayas (in salsas)

Varieties:

beefstake tomato

cherry tomato Notes: These are less than an inch in diameter, perfect for adding to salads or crudité platters, or grilling on skewers. There are both red and yellow varieties. Substitutes: teardrop tomato OR slicing tomato (for salads)

Chinese lantern plants

currant tomato Notes: These are about half the size of cherry tomatoes. Substitutes: cherry tomato (larger) OR teardrop tomatoes OR grape tomatoes

fresadilla

grape tomatoes Substitutes: teardrop tomatoes OR currant tomatoes OR cherry tomatoes

green tomato Notes: These are picked before they turn green. Southerners like to fry them. Substitutes: tomatillos OR slicing tomatoes (especially underripe ones) OR bell peppers

ground tomato

husk tomato

jamberry

Italian tomato

Mexican green tomato

Mexican husk tomato

miltomate

paste tomato

pear tomato See teardrop tomato

plum tomato

poire-joli

sauce tomato = paste tomato = plum tomato Notes: This tomato isn't as juicy as other tomatoes, which gives it a more concentrated flavor that works well in sauces and stews. These are also the best tomatoes for drying. You may want to remove the bitter seeds before cooking these tomatoes, but save the gel that surrounds the seeds--it's rich in flavor. Varieties include the roma tomato = Italian tomato = Italian plum tomato and saladette tomato. Sauce tomatoes are most flavorful in the summer. During the rest of the year, many cooks prefer canned tomatoes over the bland and mealy fresh tomatoes they usually find in markets. Substitutes: slicing tomato (This has a higher water content, so you'll need to cook it longer to concentrate its flavor.)

slicing tomato = globe tomato Notes: These large tomatoes are best for sandwiches and grilling. Varieties include the beefstake tomato and oxheart tomato. The red varieties tend to be more acidic than the yellow. Substitutes: cherry tomato (for salads) OR vine tomato OR Belgian tomato OR beets (for salads)

teardrop tomato = poire-joli = pear tomato Notes: Like cherry tomatoes, these are great in salads and on crudité platters. Substitutes: cherry tomatoes OR grape tomatoes

tomate verde

vine tomato = vine-ripened tomato Notes: For best flavor, tomatoes should stay on the vine until they're fully ripened. This is a tall order for growers, who prefer to pick tomatoes while they're still green and sturdy, and then gas them with ethylene until they turn red. Vine tomatoes, on the other hand, are picked after they begin to "break" or turn red, which allows them to develop fuller flavor. Expect to pay more for the special handling required to bring these to market.

Eggplants

Synonyms:

aubergine = berenjena = brinjal = garden egg = egg apple = patlican = melongene = melanzane = Guinea squash

This is a spongy, mild-tasting vegetable that's meaty yet low in calories. It's never eaten raw, but it can be baked, grilled, or sautéed. The best eggplants are firm and shiny eggplants with unbroken skin. Male eggplants tend to have fewer seeds, and are therefore less bitter than female eggplants. To sex an eggplant, look at the indentation at bottom. If it's deep and shaped like a dash, it's a female. If it's shallow and round, it's a male. Smaller eggplants also tend to be less bitter. Freshness is important, so don't store them for very long.

Substitutes:

zucchini OR cocozelle OR okra OR portobello mushrooms

Varieties:

American eggplant = globe eggplant

This is the familiar large, dark purple, pear-shaped variety.

1 medium = 1 pound = 4.5 cups of peeled and cubed eggplant

Substitutes: Italian eggplant (this is smaller but similar) OR Japanese eggplant (1 American eggplant = 3 Japanese eggplants)

apple green eggplant = green apple eggplant

Asian eggplants = Oriental eggplants, which include Japanese eggplants and Chinese eggplants, have thinner skins and a more delicate flavor than American eggplants, and not as many of the seeds that tend to make eggplants bitter. They're usually more slender than American eggplants, but they vary in size and shape. They range in color from lavender to pink, green, and white.

baby eggplants These are small versions of American eggplants, with sweeter flesh and thinner skins. If substituting larger eggplants for these, try peeling and salting them before cooking.

Chinese eggplant

Compared to the familiar American eggplant, Chinese eggplants have thinner skins, a more delicate flavor, and not as many of the seeds that tend to make eggplants bitter.

Substitutes: Japanese eggplant (This is similar, but it tends to be a bit more bitter than the Chinese eggplant.) OR small Italian eggplant

dried eggplant Notes: Look for these in Middle Eastern markets.

Filipino eggplant

garden eggs These are tiny eggplants, the size of an egg or smaller. Their color ranges from white to greenish-yellow.

green goddess eggplant Notes: This has a very mild flavor.

Hawaiian eggplant

Holland eggplant

Indian eggplant

Substitutes: Japanese eggplants

Italian eggplant

These are smaller than American eggplants, but they're otherwise very similar.

Substitutes: American eggplant (preferably smaller ones)

Japanese eggplant

Like other Asian eggplants, Japanese eggplants have thin skins, and a sweet, delicate flavor.

Substitutes: Chinese eggplant (This is similar, but it's quite as bitter as the Japanese eggplant.) OR small Italian eggplant

pea eggplants = baby Thai eggplants makua puong = makheau phuang Notes: These tiny Thai eggplants are quite bitter. They're sold in clusters and look like large green peas. You can find them fresh in Thai markets, or buy them pickled in jars. Substitutes: Thai eggplant (larger, not as bitter) OR English peas (For looks only; these have a completely different flavor.)

Rosa Bianca eggplant Notes: This Italian hierloom eggplant has very sweet, mild flesh and a creamy texture.

Sicilian eggplants These are large with purple stripes. They have thin skins and a subtle flavor.

Thai eggplants

These golf-ball sized eggplants are more bitter than American eggplants. They come in different colors, but they're usually green mixed with yellow or white. They're often used in hot chile or curry dishes. Remove the bitter seeds before using. Substitutes: pea eggplants (smaller, more bitter)

white eggplant This eggplant has a tough skin but a more delicate flavor and firmer flesh than the American eggplant.

Winter Squash

Winter squash come in many sizes and shapes, but all have hard outer rinds that surround sweet, often orange flesh. Winter squash arrive late in the growing season and they have a long shelf life, so they've long been a staple in winter and spring, when other vegetables are harder to come by. Unlike summer squash, winter squash must be cooked. They're usually baked or steamed, and then sometimes puréed. Select squash that are heavy for their size.

Varieties:

acorn squash Notes: These are popular because of their small size--one squash can be cut in half and baked to make two generous servings. The biggest drawback to this variety is that the rind is quite hard, and therefore difficult to cut. Select acorn squash with as much green on the rind as possible. Substitutes: buttercup squash (drier) OR butternut squash (nuttier flavor; easier to peel when raw) OR banana squash (much larger) OR turban squash (sweeter) OR Hubbard squash (much larger) OR pumpkin (much larger) OR green papayas OR golden nuggest squash (hard to cut open; consider baking first)

baby acorn squash Substitutes: summer squash

banana squash Notes: This variety is so large that grocers usually cut into smaller chunks before putting it out. It's tasty, but its biggest virtue is the beautiful golden color of its flesh. Substitutes: butternut squash OR buttercup squash OR acorn squash OR Hubbard squash OR pumpkin

buttercup squash Notes: With sweet and creamy orange flesh, the buttercup is one of the more highly regarded winter squashes. The biggest shortcoming is that it tends to be a bit dry. Choose specimens that are heavy for their size. Substitutes: butternut squash (nuttier, sweeter flavor; easier to peel when raw) OR acorn squash (less flavorful, moister) OR Hubbard squash OR delicata squash OR kabocha squash OR pumpkin OR green papaya

butternut squash Notes: This variety is very popular because it's so easy to use. It's small enough to serve a normal family without leftovers, and the rind is thin enough to peel off with a vegetable peeler. As an added bonus, the flavor is sweet, moist, and pleasantly nutty. Substitutes: buttercup squash (not as sweet and moist; harder to peel when raw; consider baking with skin on) OR acorn squash (not as sweet; harder to peel when raw, consider baking with skin on) OR calabaza OR delicata squash OR kabocha squash OR Hubbard squash (harder to peel when raw, consider baking with skin on) OR green papaya

calabash 1. spaghetti squash 2. cucuzza

calabaza = green pumpkin = West Indian pumpkin = Cuban squash = toadback = Jamaican pumpkin = crapaudback = ahuyama = zapallo = abóbora = giraumon Pronunciation: kah-luh-BAH-zuh Equivalents: 1 pound yields 2 cups cooked squash Notes: These are popular in Hispanic countries and throughout the Caribbean. They're large, so markets often cut them up before selling them. Substitutes: sugar pumpkin OR butternut squash OR buttercup squash OR Hubbard squash OR acorn squash

delicata squash = sweet potato squash = Bohemian squash Pronunciation: de-lee-CAH-tuh Notes: This is one of the tastier winter squashes, with creamy pulp that tastes a bit like sweet potatoes. Choose squash that are heavy for their size. Substitutes: butternut squash OR buttercup squash OR sweet potato

golden delicious squash Substitutes: hubbard squash

golden nugget squash = Oriental pumpkin = gold nugget squash Notes: This has a pleasant flavor, but it doesn't have as much flesh as other squashes and the heavy rind makes it hard to cut before cooking. Select specimens that are heavy for their size, and that have a dull finish. Those with shiny rinds were probably picked too young, and won't be as sweet. Substitutes: acorn squash

green pumpkin

Hubbard squash Notes: This variety has tasty flesh, but it's too large for many families to hand and the rind is hard to cut though. Some grocers cut them into smaller pieces before putting them out. Substitutes: pumpkin OR golden delicious squash OR buttercup squash OR butternut squash (easier to peel when raw, sweet flavor) OR banana squash OR acorn squash OR green papaya

Japanese pumpkin

Japanese squash

kabocha squash = Japanese squash = Japanese pumpkin = nam gwa = sweet mama = kabachi Pronunciation: kuh-BOW-tchah Equivalents: 1 cup cubed raw squash = 116 grams Notes: This orange-fleshed winter squash has a striated green rind. It's sweeter, drier, and less fibrous than other winter squash, and it tastes a bit like sweet potatoes. Substitutes: butternut squash OR acorn squash OR turban squash OR other winter squash

kin nam gwa

nam gwa

Oriental pumpkin

pumpkin Notes: Use the small sugar pumpkin = pie pumpkin for pies; the larger jack o'lantern pumpkin is too watery. Canned pumpkin purée is convenient and a good substitute for fresh. Substitutes: autumn squash OR Hubbard squash (especially in pies) OR calabaza OR butternut squash (good in pies) OR buttercup squash OR acorn squash OR sweet potato (especially for pies)

spaghetti squash = calabash = vegetable spaghetti Notes: After it's cooked, you can dig a fork into the flesh of a spaghetti squash and pull out long yellow strands that resemble spaghetti. Though they taste like squash, the "noodles" can serve as a low-calorie substitute for pasta. Substitutes: spaghetti OR butternut squash OR banana squash

sweet dumpling squash Notes: Sweet dumpling squash are fairly small, so you can cut them in half, bake them, and serve each half as an individual portion. The flesh is sweeter and drier than that of other winter squash, and the peel is soft enough to be eaten. Substitutes: butternut squash OR kabocha squash OR acorn squash

sweet mama

sweet potato squash

toadback

turban squash Notes: This squash has a gorgeous rind, but ho-hum flavor. It makes a good centerpiece, or you can hollow it out and use it as a spectacular soup tureen. Substitutes: butternut squash OR acorn squash OR green papaya

vegetable spaghetti

West Indian pumpkin

Summer Squash

Unlike winter squash, summer squash can be eaten rind, seeds, and all. The different varieties vary in size, shape, and color, but they can be used interchangeably in recipes. Select summer squash that's small and firm.

Substitutes: eggplant (this must be cooked) OR bok choy (in stir-fries) OR cucumbers (if served raw) OR winter squash

Varieties:

bottle gourd

calabash 1. spaghetti squash 2. cucuzza

chayote = cho-cho = chocho = christophene = christophine = chuchu = mango squash = mirliton (in the South) = pear squash = vegetable pear = sousous = choko = custard marrow = pepinella = pepinello = xuxu = xoxo Pronunciation: chi-YOH-tay or chi-YOH-tee Notes: This mild-flavored squash looks like a wrinkled, pale green pear. It needs to be cooked before serving, and for a longer time than other summer squash. You should peel a chayote before cooking it, but don't take the seed out--it's edible and tasty. Cooked chayotes make good low-fat substitutes for avocados. Substitutes: zucchini (stonger flavor, cooks more quickly) OR kohlrabi OR other summer squash OR carrots OR bell peppers (for stuffing)

cho-cho

choko

christophene

chuchu

courgette

cucuzza = cucuzzi = bottle gourd = calabash = zucca = suzza melon = Tasmania bean = New Guinea bean = Italian squash Substitutes: zucchini OR yellow squash

cucuzzi

custard marrow

custard squash

cymling

globe squash = Ronde de Nice Notes: You can stuff these and bake them, or slice and sauté them. Substitutes: zucchini OR baby acorn squash

Italian marrow

Italian squash

mango squash

marrow squash

mirliton

New Guinea bean

pattypan squash = scalloped squash = scallop = custard squash = white bush squash = cymling = white squash Notes: These have a pleasant, nutty flavor, and they're easy to hollow out, stuff, and bake. There are green and yellow varieties; yellow ones are sometimes called sunburst squash. Substitutes: scallopini (darker and rounder) OR zucchini OR yellow squash OR baby acorn squash

pear squash

pepinella

scallop

scalloped squash

scallopini Notes: This is like a pattypan squash, only it's greener and rounder. Substitutes: pattypan squash (ligher and flatter) OR zucchini OR baby acorn squash

snake gourd Substitutes: zucchini (smaller) OR other summer squash

sousous

sunburst squash

suzza melon

Tasmania bean

tinda = Indian baby pumpkin = Punjabi tinda

vegetable marrow = marrow squash Substitutes: zucchini (smaller)

vegetable pear

white bush squash

xuxu

yellow crookneck squash

yellow squash Notes: This category includes yellow straightneck squash and yellow crookneck squash (left). Substitutes: zucchini (This is more flavorful, and there's a yellow variety.) OR pattypan squash OR cucuzza

yellow straightneck squash

zucca

zucchini = courgette = Italian marrow squash Pronunciation: zoo-KEE-nee Equivalents: 1 medium zucchini = 1 cup sliced Notes: America's most popular summer squash, zucchini can be served raw, sautéed, baked, grilled, and

even shredded and baked in a cake. Green zucchini is the most popular, but some grocers also carry a bright yellow variety.

Substitutes: cocozelle OR yellow squash OR pattypan squash (especially for stuffing) OR chayote squash (not raw; takes longer to cook; excellent for stuffing; peel first) OR eggplant OR cucuzza OR carrots OR pumpkin (This is a great substitute for grated zucchini in breads and cakes)

Asian Squash

ampalaya

angled loofa

ash pumpkin

balsam pear

bitter cucumber

bitter gourd

bitter melon = balsam pear = bitter cucumber = bitter gourd = ampalaya = Chinese bitter melon = foo gwa = karela Notes: This bitter vegetable is believed to have medicinal properties and is widely used throughout Asia. Substitutes: winter melon (larger, needn't be salted before cooking to remove bitterness)

Chinese bitter melon

Chinese okra = silk squash = silk melon = Taiwanese okra Notes: There can either have a smooth surface or one with deep ridges. The ridged version is sometimes called angled luffa = angled loofa = angled loofah. Substitutes: zucchini

Chinese winter melon

foo gwa

fuzzy melon = hairy melon = hairy cucumber = moqua Notes: This sweet and mild squash has a fuzzy feel to it. Substitutes: zucchini

hairy cucumber

hairy melon

Indian bitter melon

karela

opo squash

silk melon

silk squash

wax gourd

winter gourd

winter melon = ash pumpkin = winter gourd = Chinese winter melon = wax gourd Substitutes: bitter melon (much smaller; salt and let stand for 30 minutes before cooking to reduce bitterness)

Cucumbers

cucumber = cuke These gourd relatives are crisp, cool, and juicy, but get only so-so marks for flavor and nutritional content. A slicing cucumber = table cucumber is usually served raw in salads, sandwiches, drinks, sushi, and hors d'oeuvres to add crunch, but they can also be cooked like zucchini. Pickling cucumbers are usually smaller than slicing cucumbers, and often have thick, warty skins. They're hard to find in supermarkets, but you can often find them during the summer months in farmers' markets.

Select firm, unblemished cucumbers that are rounded at the tips and heavy for their size. Reject those with soft spots or withered ends. Within each variety, try to pick cucumbers that are relatively small and slender--they'll often have better flavor and fewer seeds.

Supermarket cucumbers are often waxed to seal in moisture; unwaxed cucumbers can be sealed by wrapping them tightly in plastic wrap. Store cucumbers unwashed in the refrigerator crisper, where the higher humidity will help keep them crisp. Don't freeze cucumbers--they get mushy if they're too cold. Use them within a week or so of purchase.

Many cooks remove the tips, peels and seeds, which are tough and bitter in some varieties. To seed a cucumber, cut it lengthwise and scrape the seeds out with a spoon or knife.

Varieties:

Best for slicing: garden cucumber, English cucumber, Japanese cucumber, Armenian cucumber, lemon cucumber

Best for pickling: gherkin, cornichon, Kirby cucumber, lemon cucumber

Equivalents: One pound yields about 2 cups sliced.

Substitutes: zucchini OR beets

Complements: dill OR mint OR vinegar OR yogurt OR salt OR sugar OR fish OR cream OR celery seed OR tarragon

Varieties:

American dill Substitutes: gherkin (smaller) OR cornichon (smaller)

Armenian cucumber = snake melon = snake cucumber = uri This is hard to find, but one of the best-regarded slicing cucumbers. It's crisp, thin-skinned, and mild-flavored, and it has soft seeds. Like the English cucumber, it doesn't need to be peeled or seeded. It's not good for pickling. Substitutes: English cucumber

cornichon This is a small pickling cucumber. Substitutes: gherkin

cuke

English cucumber = burpless cucumber = English cucumber = European cucumber = hothouse cucumber = seedless cucumber = gourmet cucumber = greenhouse cucumber This foot-long slicing cucumber is pricier and less flavorful than other varieties, but it has less conspicuous seeds, a thinner skin, and a plastic wrapper--instead of a wax coating--to improve shelf life. All of this saves preparation time, since there's no need to peel or seed the cucumber before slicing it. This is a good variety if you focused on looks--you can cut it into round, green trimmed slices. Substitutes: Japanese cucumber OR garden cucumber, peeled and seeded

gherkin These are very small pickling cucumbers. Substitutes: cornichon OR American dill (larger)

Japanese cucumber These are just like English cucumbers, only with bumps. Like English cucumbers, they don't have to be peeled or seeded. Substitutes: English cucumber

Kirby cucumber This short, versatile cucumber is used for both slicing and pickling. It's small, with bumpy yellow or green skin. Like the English cucumber, it has a thin skin and inconspicuous seeds. Substitutes: burpless cucumber (much larger)

lemon cucumber This versatile cucumber is sweet and flavorful, and doesn't have much of the chemical that makes other cucumbers bitter and hard to digest. Though it's often served raw, it's also a good pickling cucumber. Substitutes: green cucumber (not as delicately flavored)

garden cucumber = market cucumber = common cucumber = regular cucumber = outdoor cucumber = field-grown cucumbers You can find these throughout the year at all but the most poorly stocked markets. The ones you find in supermarkets are usually waxed to hold in moisture and improve shelf-life--these should be peeled or at least scrubbed well before serving. Unwaxed cucumbers don't need to be peeled, but better cooks often do so since the peels tend to be thick and

bitter. It's also a good idea to remove the seeds from these kinds of cucumbers; just cut them in half lengthwise and scrape them out. Select cukes that are firm, dark green, and rounded at the tips. Substitutes: English cucumber (Less flavorful, but doesn't need to be peeled or seeded.) OR Japanese cucumber OR Armenian cucumber OR lemon cucumber

Mediterranean cucumber

Persian cucumber Notes: This is very similar to a Japanese cucumber.

Sweet Peppers

aji dulce

bell pepper = capsicum = sweet pepper Equivalents: One tablespoon dried = 3 tablespoon chopped fresh Notes: Red and yellow peppers are riper, more flavorful, and pricier than the more common green ones. You can occasionally find bell peppers in other colors as well, like brown, white, pink, orange, and purple. Substitutes: Holland bell peppers (thicker walls) OR Italian frying peppers OR cubanelle (more flavorful) OR poblano pepper

(hotter than bell) OR Anaheim pepper (hotter than bell) OR pimiento OR dried bell pepper flakes

bull's horn Substitutes: green bell pepper

cachucha pepper = rocatillo = aji dulce Substitutes: bell pepper

cubanelle = Cuban pepper Notes: These turn from green to red as they mature. Substitutes: red or yellow bell pepper (less flavorful)

Cuban pepper

European sweet pepper

Holland bell pepper Notes: These are like bell peppers, only with thicker walls. Substitutes: other bell peppers (may have thinner walls than Holland bell)

lamuyo = European sweet pepper = rouge royal Substitutes: bell pepper (not as sweet or large)

pimento Notes: Pimentos are often sold roasted and peeled in cans or jars, or used to stuff green olives. Substitutes: red bell pepper (thinner walls)

rocatillo

rouge royal

sweet banana Substitutes: yellow bell

Fresh Chile Peppers

Synonyms: chili pepper, chile, hot pepper, chilli pepper

Plural: chilies, chiles, chillies, or (chile, chili, chilli) peppers

Varieties:

Mild Moderately hot Hot Very hot Extremely hot

Anaheim chile = California green chile = long green pepper = chile verde [CHEE-lay VER-day] These large, mild chiles are perfect for chiles rellenos. Mexican cooks also like to dice or purée them, and then add them to sauces, soups, and casseroles. They have a tough skin, but it peels off easily if you first char the chiles over a flame and then steam them in a paper bag for several minutes. Anaheims are available year-round, but they're best in the summer. When mature and red, an Anaheim is called a chile colorado = California red chile. Substitutes: NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILE (very similar, but hotter) OR POBLANO CHILE (Poblanos are sweeter and a bit hotter than Anaheims, and their skin isn't as tough. They’re especially good for stuffing.) OR BIG JIM CHILE (hotter) OR canned GREEN CHILIES (preferably fire-roasted)

ancho chile See ancho chile (dried) or poblano pepper (fresh).

banana chile See banana pepper.

banana pepper = banana chile = sweet banana pepper Notes: These are easily confused with hotter yellow wax peppers. Sample before using. Substitutes: yellow wax (hotter)

bird cherry pepper See cherry pepper.

bird pepper 1. cayenne pepper 2. Thai chili

California green chile See Anaheim chile.

California red chile See Anaheim chile.

caloro See guero.

caribe See guero.

cayenne pepper = finger chili = ginnie pepper = bird pepper Equivalents: One pepper = 1/8 teaspoon ground Notes: These are often used in Cajun recipes. Green cayennes appear in the summer, while hotter red cayennes come out in the fall. Substitutes: chile de arbol OR Thai pepper OR habanero OR jalapeno OR serrano OR cascabel OR pequin OR tepin OR Holland OR cherry pepper

cherry pepper = hot cherry pepper = Hungarian cherry pepper = bird cherry pepper = Creole cherry pepper = wiri-wiri Notes: Along with pepperoncini, this is a good pickling pepper. Substitutes: cayenne pepper OR pepperoncini

chilaca =chile chilaca = pasilla chile pepper Substitutes: poblano pepper

chile chilaca See chilaca.

chile colorado See Anaheim chile.

chile guero See guero.

chile verde See Anaheim chile.

Creole cherry pepper See cherry pepper.

cuaresmeno Substitutes: jalapeno pepper (very similar) OR serrano pepper

Dutch chile See Holland chile.

finger chili See cayenne pepper.

Fresno pepper Pronunciation: FREZ-noh Notes: These are similar to jalapeno peppers, but with thinner walls. They're great in salsas. Green Fresnos are available in the summer. the hotter red ones come out in the fall. Substitutes: jalapeno pepper OR Serrano pepper

ginnie pepper See cayenne pepper.

goldspike See guero.

guero = chile guero = yellow hot chile = caribe = Sante Fe grande = caloro = goldspike Substitutes: Hungarian wax chile peppers OR Fresno pepper OR jalapeno pepper OR serrano pepper

habanero chile Notes: These extremely hot chiles have a fruity flavor. They're best in the summertime. Substitutes: Scotch bonnet chiles (very close) OR manzana chile OR fresh cayenne peppers OR jalapenos OR Serrano peppers (use twice as many)

Holland chile = Dutch chile Substitutes: fresh cayenne pepper OR Fresno chile

hontaka pepper Substitutes: mirasol chile pepper

hot cherry pepper See cherry pepper.

hot Hungarian wax pepper See yellow wax pepper.

Hungarian cherry pepper See cherry pepper.

Hungarian wax pepper See yellow wax pepper.

jalapeno pepper Shopping hints: These popular chiles have a good amount of heat and rich flavor. Green jalapenos are best in the late summer, while red jalapenos appear in the fall. Canned jalapenos aren't as fiery as fresh. Substitutes: cuaresmeno (very similar) OR Fresno chile OR guero chile OR malagueta (hotter) OR serrano pepper OR yellow wax chile pepper OR fresh cayenne pepper

long green pepper See Anaheim chile.

malagueta pepper Substitutes: jalapeno (not as hot) OR tabasco sauce

manzana chile Notes: This habanero relative is often used in salsas. It has black seeds. Substitutes: habanero pepper OR Scotch bonnet chile

mirasol pepper Notes: Mirasol peppers have a distinctive fruity flavor. Substitutes: hontaka chili OR serrano pepper

New Mexico green chile = New Mexico chile = New Mexico red chile (when mature) Notes: These large chiles are similar in size to Anaheims, but they're hotter. New Mexico green chiles peak in the late summer, while the hotter New Mexico red chiles appear in the fall. Substitutes: Anaheim chile (milder) OR a combination of Anaheim chiles and jalapenos.

pasilla chile pepper See chilaca or ancho chile or poblano pepper.

piquant pepper = sport pepper Substitutes: poblano peppers

poblano pepper (fresh) = (incorrectly) ancho chile = (incorrectly) pasilla pepper Pronunciation: puh-BLAH-noh Notes: These mild, heart-shaped peppers are large and have very thick walls, which make them great for stuffing. They're best in the summer. Substitutes: Anaheim (Like poblanos, these are great for stuffing. Since they have a tougher skin, you may want to char, steam, and peel them first.) OR bell pepper (for stuffing, milder) OR canned chile peppers (preferably fire-roasted) OR Serrano pepper (hotter)

prik chi fa See Thai chile.

rocotillo Substitutes: another small, mild pepper

rocoto chile Notes: These hot chiles look like tiny bell peppers and have black seeds. They have an interesting fruity flavor. Substitutes: manzana chile (very similar) OR habanero (similar heat)

Sante Fe grande See guero.

Scotch bonnet chile Notes: This chile is almost indistinguishable from the habanero, except that it's a bit smaller. It's popular in the Caribbean. Substitutes: habañero chile OR Serrano chilies (use twice as many) OR jalapeno peppers (use twice as many)

Serrano pepper Pronunciation: seh-RAH-noh Notes: These have thin walls, so they don't need to be charred, steamed, and peeled before using. Substitutes: jalapeno (not as hot) OR Fresno chile (not as hot) or guero chile (not as hot)

shishito chile Notes: This Japanese chile is very sweet and mild. It's about two inches long.

sport pepper See piquant pepper.

sweet banana pepper See banana pepper.

Thai bird chile See Thai chile.

Thai chile = bird pepper = Thai bird chile = prik chi fa = Thai jalapeno Substitutes: chile de Arbol OR fresh cayenne pepper OR jalapeno peppers (not as hot) OR Serrano peppers (not as hot)

Thai jalapeno See Thai chile.

Turkish pepper Substitutes: Anaheim pepper

xcatic chile Substitutes: yellow wax pepper OR guero pepper

yellow hot chile See guero.

yellow wax pepper = Hungarian wax pepper = hot Hungarian wax pepper Notes: These are easily confused with milder banana peppers. Sample before using. Substitutes: banana pepper (milder) OR guero

Dried Chile Peppers

Mild Moderately hot Hot Very hot Extremely hot

dried chiles = dried chilies = dried peppers

ají panca chile = aji panca chile Notes: This reddish-brown chile is fruity and mild.

ancho chile pepper = (incorrectly) pasilla chile Pronunciation: AHN-choh Notes: These are dried poblano peppers, and very commonly used in Mexican cuisine. They're brownish-black and wrinkled. Substitutes: mulato (darker with earthier, more pungent flavor) OR pasilla chile OR California chile OR dried New Mexico chile peppers

arbol chile See chile de arbol.

bola chile See cascabel pepper.

California chile Notes: These are dried Anaheim chiles, very mild. Substitutes: dried New Mexico chile peppers (a bit hotter)

cascabel pepper = rattle chile = bola chile = chile bola These are nicknamed rattle chiles because the seeds rattle when you shake them. They're a rich brown color and moderately hot. Substitutes: GUAJILLO CHILE OR PEQUIN PEPPER (much hotter) OR TEPIN

PEPPER (much hotter) OR CAYENNE PEPPER (hotter)

Catarina chile = Catarina pepper Notes: This Mexican chile is used to make tamales, marinades, stews and soups.

cayenne pepper = Ginnie pepper Notes: These are very hot, bright red chiles. Recipes that call for cayenne pepper may be referring to a ground powder that goes by the same name, or to the fresh version of the pepper. Substitutes: chile de Arbol OR guajillo

Chilhuacle negro chile Notes: This excellent Mexican chile is loaded with flavor but hard to find. It's used to make mole negro and bean dishes.

Chilcostle chile This Mexican chile is used in soups, stews, tamales, and mole sauces.

chile bola See cascabel pepper.

chile de arbol = arbol chile = red chile Pronunciation: ARE-bowl Notes: Unlike many chiles, these remain bright red even after drying. They're fairly hot. Don't confuse the dried version with the fresh, which goes by the same name. Substitutes: cayenne pepper OR pequin chiles

chile negro See pasilla chile.

chiles de ristra See New Mexico red chile.

chile seco See chipotle pepper

chiltecpin See tepin.

chiltepin See tepin.

chiltpin See tepin.

chipotle pepper (chile) = smoked jalapeno pepper = chile seco Pronunciation: chuh-POT-lay Notes: These lend a wonderful smoky flavor to sauces. They're usually canned in adobo sauce, but you can also buy the dried peppers in cellophane bags. Substitutes: (for chipotles in adobo sauce) 1 tablespoon catsup + 1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke + 1 jalapeno pepper OR morita (smaller) OR mora OR ancho (larger and milder)

Costeño Amarillo chile This Mexican chile is used to make soups, stews, and mole sauces.

Ginnie pepper See cayenne pepper.

guajillo chile Pronunciation: gwah-HEE-yoh Notes: These moderately hot chiles are smooth, shiny, and reddish-brown. They have a tough skin, so they need to be soaked longer than other chiles. Substitutes: cascabels (rounder and shorter) OR New Mexico chiles OR California chiles (milder)

habanero (habañero) chile (or pepper) Pronunciation: hah-bah-NYAIR-oh Notes: Don't confuse dried habaneros with the fresh version, which goes by the same name. These extremely hot chiles are wrinkled and orange. Substitutes: chile de Arbol

Japanese dried chile

mirasol chile (dried) Substitutes: chile de Arbol

mora chile Notes: This is a smoked and dried red jalapeno pepper. Substitutes: chipotle chile OR morita chile (smaller)

morita pepper Notes: Like the larger mora chile, this is a smoked and dried red jalapeno. Substitutes: chipotle (larger) OR mora chile (larger)

mulato chile = mulatto chile Pronunciation: moo-LAH-toe Notes: This very popular chile looks like the ancho, but it's darker and sweeter. It's fairly mild and has an earthy flavor. Substitutes: ancho chile (sweeter)

New Mexico red chile = New Mexican chile = chiles de ristra Notes: These chiles have an earthy flavor and resemble the California chile, only they're hotter and more flavorful. Substitutes: California chile OR ancho chile

Onza roja chile This is used in sauces and soups.

pasilla chile = chile negro = pasilla negro Pronunciation: puh-SEE-yuh Notes: This is the dried version of the chilaca chile. It's long, black, and wrinkled, and a standard ingredient in mole sauces. Ancho chiles are sometimes mislabeled as pasillas. Substitutes: ancho chile (sweeter) OR mulato chile (stronger, earthier flavor)

pequin pepper = piquin pepper Pronunciation: pay-KEEN Notes: These small red peppers are fairly hot. Substitutes: chile de Arbol OR tepin OR cayenne OR cascabel

piri piri pepper Substitutes: malagueta peppers

piquin pepper See pequin pepper.

puya chile = pulla chile Pronunciation: POO-yuh Notes: This is similar to the guajillo chile, only smaller and more potent. It has a fruity flavor that's good in salsas and stews.

rattle chile See cascabel pepper.

red chile See chile de arbol.

smoked jalapeno peppers See cayenne pepper.

tepin (tepín) = chiltpin (chiltpín) = chiltepin (chiltepín) = chiltecpin (chiltecpín) Notes: These look a bit like large dried cranberries. They're also sold fresh. Substitutes: pequin OR cascabel OR cayenne

Olives

A staple of Mediterranean cuisines, olives are most often eaten out of hand, though cooks also use them to flavor everything from pizzas to martinis. Raw olives must be cured before they can be eaten, and the curing medium--usually lye, brine, or salt--affects their flavor and texture. So too does the olive's degree of ripeness when it's picked. Green olives are picked while unripe, which makes them denser and more bitter than brown or black olives, which stay on the tree until fully ripened. Olives become bitter if they're cooked too long, so always add them to hot dishes at the last minute. Opened cans or jars of olives should be refrigerated, but some olives can be stored at room temperature if they're submerged in brine or olive oil.

Substitutes: caper berries (as a garnish for martinis) OR cocktail onions (this turns a martini into a Gibson) OR chopped sun-dried tomatoes OR capers

Varieties:

Agrinion olive Notes: This is a large, green Greek olive with very tender flesh.

Aleppo olive Notes: This is a black, dry-cured Middle Eastern olive that's hard to find in the United States. Substitutes:

Alphonso olive Notes: This large Chilean olive is cured in a wine or wine vinegar solution, which gives it a beautiful dark purple color and tart flavor. Its flesh is very tender and slightly bitter. Substitutes: Kalamata olives OR Gaeta olives

Amphissa olive = Amfisa olive Notes: These are dark purple Greek olives that are hard to find in the U.S. They're great for snacking. Substitutes: Kalamata olives OR Gaeta olives

Arauco olive Notes: These are large green Spanish olives flavored with rosemary. Substitutes: Manzanilla olives

Arbequina olive Notes: These are tiny green Spanish olives with a mild, smoky flavor. They're hard to find in the U.S. Substitutes: Manzanilla olives (much larger)

Atalanta olive = Atalanti olive Notes: This is a muddy-green Greek olive with soft flesh. Substitutes: Royal olive

Bella di Cerignola

black olives = ripe olives Notes: These are olives that have been allowed to ripen on the tree. American recipes that call for black olives are probably referring to the Mission olive. Other varieties of black olives are the Aleppo, Alphonso, Amphissa, black Cerignola, Gaeta, black Greek, Kalamata, Ligurian, Lugano, Moroccan dry-cured, Niçoise, Nyons, Ponentine, and Royal.

Calamata olive

Cerignola = Bella di Cerignola Notes: These Italian olives are very large and have a sweet flavor. Black Cerignolas are softer than green Cerignolas.

cracked Provencal = cracked Provençal Pronunciation: proh-vahn-SAL Notes: These aromatic green olives are marinated in a solution with herbes de Provence.

empeltre olive Notes: These Spanish black olives are soaked in sherry.

Gaeta olive = Gyeta olive Notes: These are small, black Italian olives are either dry-cured (making them black and wrinkled) or brine-cured (making them dark purple and smooth-skinned). Substitutes: Kalamata olives (as a substitute for brine-cured Gaetas)

Greek black olives Notes: A generic black Greek olive is large, dark purple and brine-cured. Popular varieties include Kalamata, Amphissa, and Royal.

Greek green olives Notes: Napfilion and Ionian olives are the most common types of green Greek olives.

green olives Notes: Green olives are picked from the tree before they're completely ripened. The most common variety is the Manzanilla olive, which is often pitted and stuffed. Other green olives varieties include the Agrinion, Arauco, Arbequina, Atalanta, green Cerignola, cracked Provençal, Kura, Lucque, Nafplion, Picholine, Sevillano, and Sicilian. Substitutes: black olives (usually softer in texture) OR caper berries (as a garnish for martinis) OR cocktail onions (This turns a martini into a Gibson.)

Greek royal olive

Gyeta olive

Hondroelia olive Notes: This is a juicy, meaty olive.

Kalamata olive = Calamata olive Notes: You can find these popular Greek black olives in most large supermarkets. They're salty and very flavorful. Substitutes: Gaeta olive (This is smaller than a Kalamata.) OR Amphissa

Kura olive Notes: This Middle Eastern cracked green olive is hard to find in the U.S. Substitutes: Nafplion olives (not as bitter)

Ligurian olive Notes: These small Italian black olives are brine-cured. Substitutes: Niçoise olives (very similar)

Lucque olive Notes: These green olives are brine-cured.

Lugano olive Notes: These are salty Italian black olives.

Manzanilla olive = Spanish olive Notes: These green olives are available in most supermarkets. They're often pitted and stuffed with pimento or garlic. These are the olives that are often put into martinis. Substitutes: caper berries (These are also used to garnish martinis.)

Marche olive

Mission olive Notes: These are the common black ones that are ubiquitous in supermarkets, pizza parlors, and salad bars. They don't have as much character as European black olives. Substitutes: Kalamatas (more flavorful)

Moroccan dry-cured olive = Moroccan oil-cured olive = Moroccan salt-cured olive Notes: These are shriveled black olives that are somewhat bitter. They're best used for cooking rather than snacking.

Moroccan green olive Substitutes: green olives (rinse off the vinegar brine first)

Nafplion green olive = Nafphlion = Nafpelion = Naphlion Notes: These are green, brine-cured Greek olives. They're somewhat salty. Substitutes: Greek green olives

Nicoise olive = Niçoise olive Pronunciation: nee-SWAHZ Notes: A key ingredient in Salade Niçoise, these small purplish-black olives have a distinctive sour flavor. Substitutes: Kalamata (This works well in a tapenade) OR Gaeta (This also works well in a tapenade)

Nyons olive Notes: These black, slightly wrinkled olives from France are salt-cured.

Picholine olive Notes: Picholines are green, torpedo-shaped olives that are brine-cured. Those made in Provence are marinated with coriander and herbes de Provence, while American picholines are soaked in citric acid. They're great martini olives. Substitutes: green olives OR caper berries (as a garnish for martinis) OR cocktail onions (This turns a martini into a Gibson.)

Ponentine olive Notes: These are mild Italian brine-cured black olives.

raw green olive Notes: These are for the rare cook who's intrepid enough to cure olives from scratch.

ripe olives

Royal olive = Victoria olive = Royal Victoria olive = Greek royal olive Notes: This is large brown Greek olive is brine-cured. Substitutes: Atalanta olive OR Kalamata olive

Seracena olive

Sevillano olive = Queen olive Notes: This is a large, green, brine-cured olive. Substitutes: Manzanillas (not as large and easier to pit than Sevillanos)

Sicilian olive Notes: These are large, green, sour olives that are usually marinated with herbs. They sometimes pitted and stuffed with pimento, garlic, or jalapeño pepper. Substitutes: Manzanillas

Spanish pitted olive

Toscanelle olive

Victoria olive

Avocados

avocado = alligator pear = midshipman's butter

Pronunciation: AV-uh-KAD-oh

Rich and creamy avocados are quite versatile. You can dice them into salads, stuff them with fillings, or mash them to make guacamole or sandwich spreads. Their only big drawback is that they're also high in calories and fat, though the fat is mostly monounsaturated, which isn't as bad as other kinds. Since they bruise easily, grocers want customers to buy them while they're still hard and then take them home to ripen at room temperature for a few days. They’ll ripen more quickly if you put them in a paper bag along with an apple or banana. They're ripe when they yield to a gentle squeeze.

To open an avocado, just cut it in half lengthwise around the seed, twist the two halves apart, and then pop the seed out with a spoon or knife. Avocados darken soon after being cut, so serve them right away or sprinkle them with lemon or lime juice to slow the discoloration. Don't ever refrigerate, freeze, or cook avocados.

Varieties: The Hass = California avocado is available year-round and has a rich flavor and creamy texture. This is the best variety for guacamole, but it turns a bit mushy in salads. The skin turns almost black when the avocado is ripe—this, unfortunately, can camouflage bad bruises. The Pinkerton peels easily and has excellent flavor. The Reed is a large, round avocado that slips easily from the peel, and has very good flavor and texture. It will stay firm even when ripe, so it's great in salads, but not a good choice if you're making guacamole. The Fuerte = Florida avocado is in season from late fall through spring. It's not quite as buttery as the Hass avocado, but its flavor is excellent. The bacon avocado is a sweet, smooth-skinned variety that shows up in the middle of winter, but isn’t as flavorful as other avocados. Mexican avocados are small and have shiny black edible skins.

Substitutes: CHAYOTE SQUASH (Once cooked, this works as an excellent low-calorie substitute for avocados in many dishes.) OR puréed raw PEAS (to make a fake guacamole) OR puréed cooked and chilled ASPARAGUS (to make a fake guacamole) OR puréed cooked and chilled BROCCOLI (to make a fake guacamole) OR ARTICHOKE HEARTS

(for salads)

Substitutes:

chayote squash (Once cooked, this works as an excellent low-calorie substitute for avocados in many dishes.)

(for guacamole) peas (Purée raw peas in a blender.) OR (for guacamole) asparagus (Cook until tender, chill, then purée.) OR (for guacamole) broccoli (Cook until tender, chill, then purée.) OR (for salads) artichoke hearts

Varieties:

avocadito Pronunciation: AV-uh-kah-DEE-toh See cocktail avocado.

bacon avocado

This sweet, smooth-skinned variety shows up in the middle of winter. It's not as flavorful as other avocados.

cocktail avocado = avocadito Notes: This is a very small variety.

Fuerte avocado = Florida avocado

This is in season from late fall through spring. It's not quite as buttery as the Hass avocado, but its flavor is excellent.

Hass avocado = California avocado

This is available year-round and has a rich flavor and creamy texture. The skin turns almost black when the avocado is ripe, which can camouflage bad bruises. This is the best variety by far for guacamole, but it turns a bit mushy in salads.

Mexican avocado

With their small size and shiny black skins, these look like elongated plums. You can eat them, skin and all.

Pinkerton avocado

These peel easily and their flavor is excellent. One of the best varieties.

Reed avocado

This large, roundish avocado slips easily from the peel, and has excellent flavor and texture. It will stay firm even when ripe, so it's not a good choice if you're making guacamole.

Links:

The California Avocado Commission is a great source of information about avocados.

Sea Vegetables

Synonyms: seaweeds = algae = marine algae

Most of us unknowingly eat processed sea vegetables every day. Manufacturers use them as thickeners and stabilizers in such products as ice cream, instant pudding, whipped toppings, salad dressings, and even toothpaste. But unprocessed sea vegetables haven't caught on much outside of Asia. It's a shame, since they're dense with vitamins, minerals, and protein, yet low in calories. You can usually find plastic bags of dehydrated sea vegetables in health food

stores, or in the Asian foods section of larger supermarkets. After rehydrating, chop them up and add them to salads, soups, stews, or stir-fries.

Varieties:

arame Notes: This popular seaweed is very sweet and mild, and it's loaded with iron, calcium, and iodine. Substitutes: hijiki (similar, but not as sweet or mild) OR wakame OR kombu OR dulse

dulse Notes: This is a salty seaweed, so it makes a great salt substitute in soups and stews. Some people eat it raw, like beef jerky. It's rich in iron. Substitutes: wakame OR arame OR hijiki OR sea lettuce

glasswort

hair vegetable = black moss = hair seaweed = hair-like vegetable = fat choy Notes: The Chinese add this to soups and use it as a garnish. Look for it in Chinese markets and pharmacies.

hijiki = hiziki Notes: Hijiki has a mild flavor, so it's a good choice if you want to slip a sea vegetable unobtrusively into your soups and stews in order to fortify them with calcium, iron, and other nutrients. When rehydrated, it roughly quadruples in size, so a little goes a long way. Substitutes: arame (This is milder than hijiki, and it doesn't expand as much when rehydrated.) OR dulse

katsuo bushi

kombu

konbu = kombu = tangle = sea tangle = oarweed = sea cabbage = kelp Pronunciation: KOM-boo Notes: Like other sea vegetables, konbu is rich in minerals. It's very popular in Japan, where it's used to flavor dashi, a soup stock. Konbu is usually sold dried, in strips or sheets. Choose konbu that's very dark, almost black, and don't wipe off the white residue that often appears on the surface; it's very flavorful. Substitutes: monosodium glutamate (as a flavor-booster; use just a dash)

laver

marsh samphire

sushi nori = seaweed sheets = nori Pronunciation: SUE-she NOH-ree OR SUE-she NOR-ee Notes: These thin dark sheets are used to make sushi. They're usually a dark purplish-black, but they turn green and acquire a pleasant, nutty flavor when toasted. You can make your own toasted nori sheets by passing nori sheets over a flame a few times. Yaki means cooked in Japanese, so pretoasted nori sheets are labeled yaki-nori or yaki sushi nori. Look for

toasted and untoasted sushi nori in the Asian foods section of large supermarkets. The name nori is also used for laver, the plant that sushi nori is made from. Unlike sushi nori, laver should be rehydrated before use. If you can't find sushi nori, one option is to make sushi without a wrapper. It helps to use plastic wrap to shape the roll. Substitutes: soybean paper (This also makes a good wrapper for sushi.)

laver = purple laver = purple seaweed = nori = redware Pronunciation: LAY-ver Notes: This protein-rich seaweed is popular in Britain and Japan. To rehydrate, soak it in water for about an hour, then add it to soups and salads. Laver is sometimes called nori, but that name is more commonly used for the dark sheets that the Japanese use to wrap sushi, which are made from the same plant. Substitutes: sushi nori

salted seaweed = nama wakame Notes: Nama wakame is Japanese for "raw seaweed." Look for bags of this heavily salted seaweed in Japanese or Korean markets.

passe-pierre

pousse-pierre

purple laver

purple seaweed

rock samphire Shopping hints: This is more commonly found in Europe than in the United States. Substitutes: seabean

salicornia

samphire

seabean = sea green bean = pousse-pierre = passe-pierre = pousse-pied = salicornia = glasswort = samphire = marsh samphire = sea pickle Notes: These crisp, salty sprigs make terrific garnishes. They're sometimes available fresh in the summer. If not, look for a pickled version in specialty food shops. Substitutes: rock samphire (available in Europe) OR capers (not as crunchy)

sea green bean

sea lettuce Substitutes: wakame OR dulse

sea pickle

sea vegetables = seaweeds

wakame = alaria Pronunciation: wah-KAH-may Notes: This has a sweet flavor, and it's rich in calcium. It's often rehydrated and then added to miso soup or sautéed as a side dish. Dry wakame can also be toasted and crumbled over salads and other dishes. It's very high in calcium. Substitutes: sea lettuce OR dulse OR arame

Sprouts

Sprouts spring from newly germinated peas and beans. They won't add much in the way of nutrients--or calories--to your diet, but they're tasty and inexpensive. There are many varieties, ranging from mild and crunchy mung bean sprouts to spicy and delicate radish sprouts. Raw sprouts are great in salads and sandwiches, and the sturdier varieties can also be stir-fried briefly.

Substitutes: lettuce OR carrots (grated) OR green onions (minced)

Varieties:

alfalfa sprouts Notes: These are too wispy to cook, but they're great raw in salads and sandwiches. Substitutes: sunflower sprouts OR mung bean sprouts (thicker shoots, crunchier, less sweet) OR soybean sprouts (more of a bean flavor) OR fenugreek sprouts (more bitter)

bean sprouts

broccoli sprouts Notes: These are rich in sulforaphane, a cancer-fighting compound. They also have a pleasant, peppery flavor. Substitutes: daikon sprouts OR alfalfa sprouts

buckwheat sprouts Substitutes: alfalfa sprouts

daikon sprouts = kaiware = radish sprouts = tsumamina = clover radish Notes: These have a pungent, peppery flavor that works wonders for otherwise bland salads and sandwiches. They're too delicate to cook, so always serve them raw. Substitutes: onion sprouts

fenugreek sprouts Substitutes: mung bean sprouts (thicker, sweeter) OR alfalfa sprouts (sweeter)

kaiware Pronunciation: ki-WAHR-ay See daikon sprouts.

mung bean sprouts = bean sprouts Notes: These are the large sprouts that are common in supermarkets. They're crisp and nutty, and they're the best sprouts for stir-frying, though they can also be served raw. Select bean sprouts that are crisp and white with just a tinge of yellow. To keep them fresh, rinse them off and immerse them in cold water, then store them in the refrigerator. They're very perishable, so try to use them within a day or two. Canned bean sprouts are a very poor substitute for fresh. Substitutes: snow peas (sturdy enough to cook) OR sunflower sprouts (sturdy enough to cook) OR soybean sprouts (bigger, bean-like flavor)

onion sprouts Notes: These have a distinct onion flavor. Substitutes: daikon sprouts

radish sprouts

snow pea shoots Notes: Look for these in Asian markets. Substitutes: mung bean sprouts

soybean sprouts Notes: These sturdy, crunchy sprouts are good in salads or stir-fries. They become bitter when the tails get too long, so eat them soon after they sprout. Substitutes: mung bean sprouts (smaller, less bean-like flavor)

sunflower sprouts Notes: These are sweet and crunchy. Substitutes: mung bean sprouts OR alfalfa sprouts OR soybean sprouts

tsumamina

Other Vegetables

nopale = prickly pear cactus pad = prickly pear cactus leaf = prickly pear cactus paddle = nopal Notes: The canned version is acceptable substitute for fresh, but it has an inferior texture. Substitutes: okra OR green beans OR green peppers

nopalitos Substitutes: chopped nopales

Citrus Fruit

Citrus fruits have stippled rinds that surround pulp that's tart, juicy, and rich in vitamin C and other nutrients. Most citrus fruits are first peeled, then the pulp is either eaten out of hand or squeezed to make juice, but some, like the kumquat, are eaten peel and all. The peels contain fragrant oils, and their zest is often used to flavor foods. When buying citrus fruit, select specimens that are smaller, thin-skinned, and heavy for their size. They keep longer if you store them in the refrigerator.

Pronunciation: SIH-truss

Varieties:

bergamot = bergamot orange Pronunciation: BUHR-gah-mot Notes: This is a small acidic orange, used mostly for its peel. Don't confuse it with the herb that goes by the same name. Substitutes: limes

blood orange = pigmented orange Notes: These red-fleshed oranges are more popular in Europe than in the United States. Look for them in the winter and spring. Substitutes: orange (flesh orange, not red, more acidic) OR tangerines (sweeter)

Buddha's hand citron = Buddha's fingers citron = fingered citron Notes: This fragrant fruit has hardly any flesh, but the peel can be candied. Substitutes: citron OR lemon

calamansi (lime) See kalamansi (lime).

calamondin = calamondin orange = China orange = Panama orange Substitutes: kumquats (slightly smaller) OR kalamansi

cedro See citron.

China orange See calamondin (orange).

Chinese grapefruit See pomelo.

citron = cedro = yuzu Pronunciation: SIHT-ruhn Substitutes: lemon

clementine orange See mandarin orange.

fingered citron See Buddha's hand citron.

Florida key lime See lime.

grapefruit Notes: A grapefruit is a large, slightly tart kind of citrus fruit. The rind is mostly yellow, and often tinged with green or red. Grapefruits are categorized by the color of their pulp: red, pink, or white (which is more honey-colored than white). The color of the pulp doesn't affect the flavor. When buying grapefruit, select specimens that are smaller, thin-skinned, and heavy for their size. Some varieties are seedless. They're best in the winter and spring. Substitutes: ugli fruit (more flavorful, but don't cook it) OR pomelo (less acidic and less bitter) OR tangelo (tangerine-grapefruit cross)

jeruk purut See kaffir lime.

kabosu = kabosu lime Substitutes: lime

kaffir lime = jeruk purut = leech lime = limau purut = magrood = makroot = makrut Notes: Thai cooks use these golf ball-sized limes to give their dishes a unique aromatic flavor. Kaffir limes have very little juice, usually just the zest is used. Substitutes: citron OR lime OR kaffir lime leaves (One tablespoon of zest from a kaffir lime is equivalent to about six kaffir lime leaves.)

kalamansi = kalamansi lime = calamansi = calamansi lime = musk lime = musklime Notes: The very sour kalamansi looks like a small round lime and tastes like a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange. It's very popular in the Philippines. Substitutes: calamondin (This is very similar to the kalamansi.) OR lemons OR mandarin oranges

key lime = Florida key lime = Mexican lime Notes: These are smaller and more acidic than the more common Persian limes. Substitutes: limes (Many cooks prefer freshly squeezed Persian lime juice over bottled key lime juice for key lime pies.)

kumquat Pronunciation: KUHM-kwaht Notes: These look like grape-sized oranges, and they can be eaten whole. The flavor is a bit sour and very intense. They peak in the winter months. Substitutes: limequats OR calamondin oranges OR Seville oranges (for marmalade)

leech lime See kaffir lime.

lemon Equivalents: One lemon yields about 2-3 tablespoons lemon juice. Notes: This very sour citrus fruit is rarely eaten out of hand, but it's widely used for its juice, rind, and zest. Varieties include the Eureka lemon, which is what you're most likely to find in markets, the Lisbon lemon, which shows up in the winter and is smaller and smoother than the Eureka, and the trendy Meyer lemon, which is much sweeter and pricier than an ordinary lemon. When buying lemons, select specimens that are smaller, thin-skinned, and heavy for their size.

Substitutes: grapefruits (These make an interesting meringue pie.) OR limes OR citrons (These are used only for their peels.) OR lemongrass (in soups and marinades)

limau purut See kaffir lime.

lime Notes: These tart green fruits are similar to lemons, but they're more acidic and have their own unique flavor. Varieties include the common Persian lime = Tahiti lime and the smaller, less juicy, and more acidic Florida key lime = key lime = Mexican lime. When buying limes, select specimens that are dark green, smaller, thin-skinned, and heavy for their size. Equivalents: 1 lime yields about 2 tablespoons lime juice Substitutes: lemon (Lemons have a weaker flavor and are less acidic, so use a bit more to compensate.) OR kalamansi

limequat Notes: This is a cross between a lime and a kumquat. It's similar in size and shape to a kumquat, but with a green or yellow-green skin. It has a strong lime flavor. Substitutes: kumquats (very similar in appearance, different flavor)

magrood See kaffir lime.

makroot See kaffir lime.

makrut See kaffir lime.

mandarin orange Notes: These have a pleasant enough flavor, but their big asset is that they come out of their peels and segment easily, so you can eat them in your good clothes. Varieties include the popular tangerine, the seedy but juicy honey tangerine = Murcott, the satsuma orange, the sweet and tiny clementine orange, and the seedy and orange-flavored temple orange.

Substitutes: orange

Mexican lime See lime.

Meyer lemon Notes: This is sweeter than an ordinary lemon, and highly prized by gourmet chefs. It's a bit hard to find in supermarkets. Substitutes: ordinary lemons

musk lime See kalamansi (lime).

orange = sweet orange Notes: Most American oranges are produced in Florida and California. Florida oranges are juicier, and better suited to squeezing, while California oranges segment more easily and are better for eating out of hand. The best oranges are smaller, thin-skinned, and heavy for their size. Substitutes: blood orange (less acidic, red flesh) OR mandarin orange Or kumquats OR ugli fruit OR grapefruit OR pomelo (especially for marmalade)

Panama orange See calamondin (orange).

Persian lime See lime.

pigmented orange See blood orange.

pomelo = pummelo = Chinese grapefruit = shaddock Pronunciation: PUHM-uh-low Notes: This has a very thick peel, so you have to work hard to eat it. Many people think it's worth the trouble, for the pulp is milder and sweeter than its closest substitute, the grapefruit. Substitutes: grapefruit (more acidic and more bitter)

pummelo See pomelo.

rangpur lime Notes: This is similar to a mandarin orange, only more acidic. Substitutes: mandarin orange

satsuma orange See mandarin orange.

Seville orange = bitter orange = bigarade orange = sour orange Notes: These are too bitter for eating out of hand, but they make a wonderful orange marmalade and the sour juice is perfect for certain mixed drinks. Substitutes: (for the juice) Mix 1 part lime or lemon juice + 2 parts orange juice OR 2 parts grapefruit juice + 1 part lime juice + dash orange zest OR 2 parts lime juice + 1 page orange juice OR (for marmalade) kumquats OR (for marmalade) oranges

shaddock See pomelo.

Tahiti lime See lime.

tangelo Notes: There are several different varieties of tangelos, each a cross between a tangerine and another citrus fruit. The Mineola, a tangerine-grapefruit cross, is especially popular. Look for them in markets from late fall through winter. Substitutes: mandarin orange OR grapefruit OR orange

tangerine See mandarin orange.

temple orange See mandarin orange.

ugli fruit = Uniq fruit®

This grapefruit-mandarin cross looks like a grapefruit in an ill-fitting suit. It's sweet and juicy, though, and simple to eat since the peel comes off easily and the fruit pulls apart into tidy segments that are virtually seedless. Americans pronounce the name "ugly," but in Jamaica, where it's grown, it's pronounced "HOO-glee." Some marketers have tried calling it "Uniq fruit®," but the name hasn't caught on much. Ugli fruit are available from December through April. Most specimens are much uglier than the one pictured here, but don't let that deter you. Select fruits that are heavy for their size, and that give a little when you press them.

Substitutes: grapefruit (not as sweet) OR orange (smaller)

uniq fruit® See ugli fruit.

yuzu See citron.

Berries

Berries are the delicious and often fragile fruits that grow on vines, bushes, and runners. They have many virtues--they're colorful, easy to prepare, good for you, and so delicious that you can serve them for dessert all by themselves. The only downside is that they're often pricey, since it's a Herculean challenge to get them to market before they spoil. Many don't make it, so check them over carefully for mold before putting them in your shopping cart. Berries don't ripen once they're picked, so the deeply colored ones tend to be the sweetest and most flavorful. When you get them home, store them in the refrigerator and use them as soon as possible. Don't wash them until you're ready to use them, and freeze any that you can't get to right away.

alkekengi See Cape gooseberry.

baby kiwifruit Notes: You can eat this tiny kiwifruit hybrid skin and all. Substitutes: grapes

bilberry = whortleberry = blaeberry = whinberry Notes: This small, tart berry is the European counterpart to the American blueberry. Bilberries are usually made into preserves. Pronunciation: BILL-beh-ree Substitutes: juneberries OR huckleberries OR cranberries (tarter than bilberries) OR blueberries (larger and sweeter) OR currants

blackberry = bramble Notes: These would be excellent berries were it not for their rather large seeds. They're still great for eating out of hand, but cooks often strain out the seeds when making pies and preserves. Select berries that are free of mold, and as black as possible. They arrive in markets in the summer. Substitutes: loganberry OR boysenberry OR mulberry (larger, more fragile) OR raspberry OR youngberry OR olallieberry OR dewberry OR red currant

black currant = cassis Pronunciation: KER-unt Notes: These are too tart to eat out of hand, but they're often used to make syrups, preserves, and the liqueur cassis. Frozen are a good substitute for fresh. Substitutes: elderberries OR blueberries OR red currants OR gooseberries

blaeberry See bilberry.

blueberry Equivalents: 1 pint = 3 cups Notes: Blueberries are small and sturdy, so they're perfect for tossing into cakes, muffins, cereal bowls, and fruit salads. Like other berries, they also make good preserves and tarts. Select firm, dark berries that have a whitish bloom on them. You can find fresh blueberries in the summer, but frozen blueberries are available year-round and work well in many recipes. They're very perishable, so keep them refrigerated and use them as soon as possible. You can also buy blueberries frozen, dried, or canned. Frozen berries get a little mushy after they're defrosted, but they'll

work well in many recipes. Substitutes: huckleberry (larger seeds and tarter, otherwise very close substitute) OR juneberry OR red currant OR raisins (in baked goods) OR dates (in baked goods) OR bananas (in baked goods)

boysenberry Notes: A boysenberry is a cross between a blackberry, a raspberry, and a loganberry. It's more fragile than a blackberry, but it also lacks the blackberry's conspicuous seeds. Select boysenberries that are dark in color and free of mold. Substitutes: loganberry OR blackberry (This has larger, more noticeable seeds.) OR raspberry OR olallieberry OR dewberry OR youngberry

bramble See blackberry.

Cape gooseberry = Chinese lantern = physalis = golden gooseberry = alkekengi = strawberry tomato = ground cherry = husk tomato = golden berry = golden husk = poha Notes: Like its relative the tomatillo, the Cape gooseberry is covered with a papery husk. The fruit inside looks a bit like a yellow cherry, and tastes like a sweet tomato. You can eat Cape gooseberries whole, minus the husk, or use them to make very tasty preserves. They're hard to find in the United States; your best bet is a specialty produce market in the spring. Substitutes: tomatillos OR gooseberries OR cherry tomatoes

champagne grapes See Zante grapes.

Chinese gooseberry See kiwi fruit.

Chinese lantern See Cape gooseberry.

cloudberry Notes: Both the color and flavor of these Scandinavian berries pale in comparison to the raspberry. Substitutes: raspberries

cranberry = bounceberry Shopping hints: These tart berries are traditionally used to makes sauces and garnishes for Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. It's best to buy them at their peak in October and November, and freeze any that you don't use right away. Substitutes: lingonberry (smaller, better flavor) OR carissa (especially for jellies) OR rhubarb

currant Pronunciation: KER-unt Notes: These berries are too tart for most people to eat out of hand, but they make terrific preserves and garnishes. They come in three colors: red, white, and black. If color's not important, you can use them interchangeably in most recipes, though red and white currants aren't as tart as black. Don't confuse these berries with the dried fruit of the same name that looks like a small raisin. You can sometimes find fresh currants in specialty produce markets in the summer. If not, frozen currants are a good substitute. Substitutes: gooseberries OR raspberries

dewberry Notes: These are similar to blackberries, only they're smaller. Substitutes: youngberry OR blackberry OR raspberry OR loganberry OR boysenberry OR olallieberry

elderberry Equivalents: 1 cup = 145 grams Notes: These are too tart for most people to eat out of hand, but they make terrific preserves and wine. Substitutes: black currants OR cranberries

frais des bois = wild strawberry = wood strawberry Plural: fraises des bois Pronunciation: (singular) FRAY-day-BWAH (plural) FREHZ-day-BWAH Notes: These small, wild strawberries are either white or red, and have a very intense flavor. Substitutes: strawberries

golden raspberry Notes: This is a blonder version of the red raspberry. Substitutes: raspberries

golden berry See Cape gooseberry.

golden gooseberry See Cape gooseberry.

golden husk See Cape gooseberry.

gooseberry Equivalents: 1 cup = 150 grams Notes: These large, tart berries are in season only in June and July, but canned gooseberries work well in pies and fools. American gooseberries are round and about 1/2 inch in diameter, while European gooseberries are oblong, and about twice the size of American gooseberries. They're very acidic, and so they're great with roasted meats, like

goose. The freshest gooseberries are covered with fuzz. Substitutes: rhubarb (excellent in fools) OR kiwi fruit (These are much larger than gooseberries, but they're excellent in fools.) OR currants (preferably red currants)

grapes = table grapes Notes: Many varieties of grapes are turned into wine, vinegar, jelly, and raisins, but table grapes are for eating out of hand. They're classified by their color--red, green, and blue--and by whether they have seeds or not. Seedless varieties are popular because they're easy to eat, but often the seeded varieties offer more flavor and better value. Substitutes: kiwi fruit OR blueberries (in fruit salad)

ground cherry See Cape gooseberry.

huckleberry Notes: These are similar to blueberries, and they're great for making preserves and syrups. Some specialty markets carry them in the summer. Substitutes: blueberry (inconspicuous seeds and less tart, otherwise very close substitute) OR bilberries

husk tomato See Cape gooseberry.

jaboticaba Pronunciation: zhuh-BOO-ti-KAH-buh Notes: These resemble large, dark purple grapes, and they're very popular in Brazil. You can eat them like grapes, though you might want to first remove the seeds and thick skin. You can also make delicious jams, jellies, and wines from them. Substitutes: grapes

juneberry = saskatoon = serviceberry = shadberry Notes: These are very similar to blueberries. Substitutes: blueberry OR huckleberry

keriberry

kiwi See kiwi fruit.

kiwi fruit = kiwi = kiwifruit = Chinese gooseberry = monkey peach = yang-tao Pronunciation: KEE-wee Notes: This small, oblong fruit is has fuzzy brown skin and beautiful green flesh dotted with edible black seeds. It tastes like a cross between gooseberries and strawberries. It's very versatile--you can eat it as a snack, blend it into sauces or sorbets, or peel and slice it as a garnish. It also contains an enzyme that tenderizes meat. Select kiwis that are hard, allowing them to ripen at room temperature for a few days. Substitutes: pitaya (very similar, but sweeter) OR gooseberry (much smaller berries) OR strawberry OR papaya (as meat tenderizer) OR pear (different flavor)

lingonberry Notes: These tart relatives of the cranberry grow only in cold climates. Substitutes: cranberry (larger, tarter, inferior flavor) OR red currants

loganberry Notes: These are like blackberries, only they're dark red when ripe and more acidic. They're especially good in pies and preserves. Substitutes: raspberry OR blackberry OR boysenberry OR olallieberry OR youngberry OR dewberry

marion berry Notes: After Washington, D.C., mayor Marion Barry was arrested for possessing cocaine in 1989, marion berry jam enjoyed brief popularity as a novelty item. Substitutes: blackberry (smaller)

monkey peach See kiwi fruit.

mulberry Notes: These are so fragile that almost no markets carry them. Substitutes: blackberry (smaller, not as fragile)

olallieberry = olallie berry Notes: This cross between a youngberry and a loganberry is black and fairly sweet. Substitutes: loganberry OR youngberry OR raspberry OR boysenberry OR dewberry OR blackberry

physalis See Cape gooseberry.

poha See Cape gooseberry.

raspberry Notes: It's a real challenge to get these hollow, fragile berries to consumers before they spoil, so you'll have to pay a high price for those that make it. Many don't, so check them carefully for mildew before you buy them. A good alternative is to buy them frozen. Substitutes: loganberry OR strawberry OR blackberry OR boysenberry OR olallieberry OR youngberry OR dewberry OR thimbleberry OR carissa (especially for preserves)

red currant Pronunciation: KER-unt Notes: With their brilliant coloring, red currants make terrific garnishes. They're also pleasantly tart, and often used to make jellies, syrups, and wine. Fresh ones are available in some markets during the summer, but frozen currants are acceptable substitutes for fresh in many recipes. Substitutes: blueberry OR black currant (for preserves) OR white currant (for eating raw) OR gooseberry (tarter) OR cranberry (as a garnish) OR blackberries OR red currant jelly (for sauces; sweeter than whole fruit)

saskatoon See juneberry.

serviceberry See juneberry.

shadberry See juneberry.

strawberry Notes: Strawberries aren't as fragile as other berries, so they don't need the special handling that makes most berries so expensive. The best time to buy them is in the spring, but you can find them throughout the year, though the price might be higher and the quality lower. Select berries that have fully ripened to a dark red. Substitutes: raspberry OR guava (especially for shortcakes) OR kiwi

strawberry tomato See Cape gooseberry.

sweet gooseberry Notes: These are similar to gooseberries, but they have a red blush and are much sweeter. Substitutes: gooseberries

tay berry Substitutes: blackberry

thimbleberry Substitutes: raspberry

whinberry See bilberry.

white currant Pronunciation: KER-unt Substitutes: red currant

whortleberry See bilberry.

yang-tao See kiwi fruit.

youngberry Notes: This is closely related to the blackberry. Substitutes: blackberry OR olallieberry OR loganberry OR raspberry OR dewberry OR boysenberry

Zante grapes = champagne grapes Notes: These clusters of tiny grapes are often used as a garnish. Substitutes: other garnish

Stone Fruit

Synonyms: drupes = summer fruit

The family of stone fruits includes cherries, plums, apricots, nectarines, and peaches. They all arrive in the summer, though you can sometimes find pricey imports during the off-season. Stone fruits don't become sweeter after they're picked, but growers often harvest them while they're still a bit underripe so that they won't bruise during transit. At the market, select specimens that have the color, if not the softness, of fully ripened fruit, then take them home and let them soften at room temperature for a few days.

Varieties:

acerola = Barbados cherry = Puerto Rican cherry = West Indian cherry Pronunciation: ass-ah-ROH-lah Notes: These are very rich in vitamin C, and somewhat acidic. You can eat them out

of hand, but they're probably better suited for making preserves. Equivalents: 1 cup = 98 grams, 1 pitted acerola = 4.8 grams Substitutes: cherries

apricot Notes: Like other stone fruit, apricots are sweetest--and most prone to bruising--when they're allowed to ripen on the tree. But unless you can pick your own, you'll probably have to make do with the slightly underripe, more durable apricots sold in markets. Allow them to soften at room temperature for a few days before eating them. They're best in the summer. Substitutes: apriums OR pluots OR peaches OR nectarines

aprium Notes: This is an apricot/plum cross, with apricot dominating. Substitutes: pluots OR apricots OR plums

Barbados cherry See acerola.

cherry Notes: There are three main categories of cherries: sweet cherries, which are for eating out of hand, sour cherries, which are best suited for making pies, preserves, and sauces, and tart chokecherries. Substitutes: stone fruit

chokecherry Notes: These are too tart for most people to eat out of hand, but they make delicious preserves. Substitutes: sour cherries OR cranberries

donut peach = saucer peach Notes: These squat peaches have white flesh, and a very good flavor. Use them as you would ordinary peaches. Substitutes: peaches

green almonds Notes: Middle Eastern cooks use these in stews and desserts.

nectarine Pronunciation: nek-tuh-REEN Notes: Nectarines resemble peaches, but they're sweeter and more nutritious. They're best if they're allowed to ripen on the tree. Unfortunately, tree-ripened nectarines bruise easily, so most growers scrimp on flavor and pick and market them while they're still slightly underripe. After buying nectarines, you're supposed to let them ripen for a couple of days at room temperature before eating them. This makes them softer and juicier, but not sweeter. Avoid buying nectarines that are too hard or that have green spots--a sign they were picked way too soon--or those that are bruised. The superior freestone varieties arrive in June and July; the cling varieties that come later aren't as good. Substitutes: peaches (not as sweet) OR apricots

peach Notes: Most of the peaches that are sold in markets are freestone, and de-fuzzed by the grower. Select peaches that are colorful and free of bruises. After you get them home, let them ripen at room temperature for a day or so until they become softer. They're best and cheapest in the summer. Substitutes: nectarines (sweeter) OR apricots OR papaya OR mango

pie cherry See sour cherry.

plum = fresh prune Notes: Plums are juicier than other stone fruits, and have a longer growing season. There are many varieties, some sweet, some acidic, and some best suited for drying into prunes. They're often eaten out of hand, but they also work well in cobblers, compotes, and tarts. Substitutes: pluot (plum/apricot cross, with plum dominating) OR aprium (apricot/plum cross, with apricot dominating) OR loquat OR prunes (rehydrate first in water)

pluot = plumcot Notes: This is a plum/apricot cross, with plum dominating. Substitutes: apriots OR plums OR apricots

Puerto Rican cherry See acerola.

saucer peach See peach.

sour cherry = pie cherry = tart cherry = red cherry Notes: While sweet cherries are best for eating out of hand, knowing cooks turn to sour cherries for pie fillings, sauces, soups, and jams. Popular varieties include the Montmorency, Morello, and Early Richmond. Sour cherries don't transport well, so they're difficult to find fresh. Canned sour cherries, though, are almost as good. If you want, boost their flavor a bit by adding one tablespoon of Kirschwasser per cup. Substitutes: chokecherries (for preserves) OR sweet cherries (use less sugar) OR loquats (similar flavor, good in pies and preserves) OR sweet cherries OR dried cherries (Soak these in cherry liqueur before using.)

sweet cherry Notes: These appear in the summer, with the popular and exquisite Bing cherries arriving in June and July. Other varieties have the virtue of arriving before or after the Bings, but they're often not nearly as tasty. Select cherries that are large, deeply colored, and firm. Substitutes: sour cherries (These are the preferred cherries for preserves, sauces, pie fillings, and many desserts because they're more flavorful than sweet cherries when cooked. Add sugar to taste.) OR dried cherries (Soak these in cherry liqueur before using.)

tart cherry See sour cherry.

West Indian cherry See acerola.

Common Tropical Fruit

banana Varieties: Most of the bananas you and I have eaten in our lifetimes are the yellow Cavendish bananas. The burro banana = chunkey = chunky is shorter than the Cavendish, and has an interesting lemony flavor. The manzano banana is smaller yet and a bit drier, but it fits nicely into lunch boxes. The red banana has a purple peel and is best used for baking. The plantain is larger than other banana varieties, and is usually fried, baked, or mashed before eating. Yellow bananas are ripe and ready to eat, while green ones will ripen at room temperature in just a few days. Refrigerating ripe bananas will keep them from getting softy and mushy, though the peels will darken. Substitutes: plantain (for baking, mashing, and frying) OR mango (different flavor)

burro banana See banana.

carambola Pronunciation: kah-rahm-BOH-luh See star fruit.

Cavendish banana See banana.

Chinese apple See pomegranate.

Chinese star fruit See star fruit.

chunkey See banana.

chunky See banana.

coconut Equivalents: 1 whole = 3-4 cups grated; 1 tablespoon grated dry = 1 ½ tablespoons fresh grated; 6 cups grated = 1 pound. Notes: The most common form of coconut in markets is the dry coconut, with a hard brown shell surrounding firm coconut meat with liquid in the center. Green coconuts = water coconuts are young coconuts with very soft meat inside. They're more often found in the tropics. Select coconuts that are free of cracks or mold, that are heavy for their size, and that have lots of water in them when you shake them. To crack one, hit it along its equator with a blunt instrument, pouring off the water when the first crack appears. Substitutes: Brazil nuts OR macadamia nuts

cooking papaya See green papaya.

dates (fresh) Notes: Fresh dates are sometimes available at farmer's markets in the late summer. They're crunchy, and not as sweet as dried dates. Substitutes: dried dates

dry coconut See coconut.

fig Notes: Varieties include Calimyrna = Smyrna and Kadota, both with green skin and pinkish-white flesh, and the most popular variety, and the Mission fig = black Mission fig, with dark purple skin and pink flesh. Dried figs are not good substitutes for fresh. Substitutes: pears (especially as a dessert served with cheese or prosciutto)

five-angled fruit See star fruit.

five corners See star fruit.

fruta bomba See papaya.

green papaya = cooking papaya Notes: Southeast Asian cooks like to shred these into salads. Substitutes: chayote squash

green coconut See coconut.

Kadota fig Notes: This has green skin and pinkish-white flesh.

lechosa See papaya.

mango Equivalents: The pulp from one large mango will yield one cup of purée. Notes: It's always a challenge to eat a mango. The pulp clings desperately to both peel and seed, and it usually turns into a mushy mess by the time you free it. Despite this, the mango is one of the most popular fruits in the world. It's sweet and juicy, and it has a wonderful, distinctive flavor. Select richly colored, firm mangoes, then let them ripen at home for a few days. Frozen mangoes are good substitutes for fresh. Substitutes: peaches OR nectarines OR papayas

manzano banana See banana.

papaya = fruta bomba = lechosa = tree melon = (in Australia) pawpaw = papaw Notes: With their subtle tropical flavor, papayas are wonderful in fruit salads, puréed fruit drinks, or even shish kabobs. They're also good for you and easy to peel and seed. Papayas from Hawaii are more common and more flavorful than those from Mexico. Yellow ones that yield to gentle pressure are ready to eat, and should be refrigerated. Green ones will ripen at room temperature in just a few days. Substitutes: mango OR peaches (use twice as many) OR nectarines (use twice as many) OR cantaloupe OR honeydew melon OR kiwifruit (as a meat

tenderizer) OR tomatoes (in salsas) OR pineapples (Like papayas, these hold their shape when cooked, so they work well on shish kabobs.)

persimmon Notes: There are two varieties: the dark orange, acorn-shaped Hachiya and the light orange, tomato-shaped Fuyu. Many people have sworn off persimmons for life after biting into an underripe, astringent Hachiya. But if you wait until it's ripened to a soft, shriveled mess, you can spoon out its exquisitely sweet and delicate pulp. Fuyus aren't as flavorful, but they're more idiot-proof in that you can eat them while they're still firm and not get your mouth in a pucker. Substitutes: plums OR pumpkin (Mashed pumpkin is a good substitute for persimmons in many baked good recipes.)

pineapple Notes: Pineapples are juicy, mildly acidic, and very versatile. They can be squeezed for juice, sliced on cakes, skewered and grilled, or eaten raw without adornment. Select only ripe pineapples; they stop becoming sweeter once they're picked. A new variety, the golden pineapple, is sweeter, juicier, and richer in vitamin C than ordinary pineapples. A white pineapple also has been developed. Canned pineapple is an acceptable substitute for fresh in many recipes. Substitutes: papaya (Like a pineapple, it holds its shape when cooked.)

pomegranate = Chinese apple Notes: Cut through the pomegranate's leathery skin, and you'll find hundreds of pretty kernels, each with a tiny seed surrounded by ruby red pulp. You can eat the kernels, seeds and all, and they're great as garnishes or sprinkled in salads. You can also press the kernels for juice and strain out the seeds. Wear an apron when working with pomegranates; the juice can stain your clothes. They arrive in markets in the late summer and early fall. Substitutes: grenadine (for the juice)

red banana See banana.

star fruit = starfruit = carambola = five-angled fruit = five corners = Chinese star fruit = tree melon Notes: Star fruit have a clean, crisp texture, and they make terrific star-shaped garnishes when sliced. They're also easy to use, since they don't need to be peeled or seeded, and they're slow to discolor. Some varieties are sweet, some are sour. Try to avoid ones that have brown spots or streaks. Substitutes: melons OR lemon slices (as garnish)

tree melon See papaya.

water coconut See coconut.

Exotic Tropical Fruit

ababai Pronunciation: ABBA-bye Notes: Ababais are similar to papayas, only they have their own unique flavor. They're good raw, but they can also be cooked or grilled without losing their shape. The biggest drawback is that they're as yet hard to find in markets. Substitutes: papaya (This also holds its shape when cooked.) OR mango

achee See ackee.

ackee = achee = akee = vegetable brains = vegetable egg Pronunciation: uh-KEE Notes: The pulp of this fruit looks and tastes like scrambled eggs when cooked, and Jamaicans like to serve it with salt cod. Look for cans of it in Caribbean markets. Warning: Only the yellow pulp on ripe ackees is edible. Eating underripe ackees that haven't opened on their own, or eating the pink portion of ripe ackees, can cause vomiting and death.

Adam's fig See plantain.

akee See ackee.

apple cactus See pitaya.

asam gelugor Substitutes: tamarind

asam jawa See tamarind.

atemoya Notes: This cherimoya-sweetsop cross has sweet custard-like pulp. Look for it in specialty produce markets during the fall. Substitutes: cherimoya OR sweetsop OR mango

barbary fig See prickly pear.

bilimbi Substitutes: star fruit

black sapote See sapote.

breadfruit = panapen = pana de pepita Notes: This is the plant that the H.M.S. Bounty was carrying in the South Pacific when its crew mutinied. Captain Bligh's goal had been to transport the seedlings from Tahiti to the Caribbean, so that slaves there would have a ready source of starch and calories. Breadfruit is highly perishable, so fresh ones are hard to find outside the tropics. The canned version is a good substitute. A seeded version is called a breadnut. Substitutes: jackfruit (larger than breadfruit) OR plantain

(especially for tostones) OR potatoes

breadnut See breadfruit.

cactus fruit See pitaya.

cactus pear See prickly pear.

caimito See star apple.

canistel = egg fruit Shopping hints: This is a very sweet fruit, roughly the size of an egg, with a shell the color of an egg yolk. Substitutes: black sapote (not as sweet) OR mamey sapote (not as sweet) OR sapodilla (not as sweet) OR cherimoya (not as sweet) OR persimmon (not as sweet) OR yams (if the recipe calls for the canistel to be cooked)

Capuli See Capulin (cherry).

Capulin cherry = Capulin = Panama berry = Capuli = tropic cherry = tropical cherry Substitutes: sweet cherries

carissa = natal plum Notes: You won't find these in markets, but these tart plums are great for making preserves. Substitutes: cranberries (for jellies) OR raspberries (for jellies and preserves)

cashew apple = cashew fruit = marañon = merey = caju = cajueiro Notes: This Brazilian fruit looks like a squishy apple with an odd-looking stem growing out of it. According to botanists, though, the grayish "stem" is actually the fruit, and it encloses the kidney-shaped cashew nut that we're familiar with. The cashew apple is the yellowish-orange part that's attached to the fruit. Cashew apples are juicy but somewhat astringent due to a high concentration of tannin. Be careful of the grayish fruit that encloses the nut. It contains

toxic oils.

ceriman See monstera.

cheremai See Otaheite gooseberry.

cherimoya = custard apple = sherbet fruit = chirimolla = chirimoya = (incorrectly) pawpaw Pronunciation: chair-uh-MOY-yuh Notes: This South American tropical fruit is shaped like a pine cone and has a gray-green, scaly skin. The soft white pulp inside has large black (inedible) seeds and tastes like a creamy blend of tropical flavors. Hard cherimoyas should be stored at room temperature until they give a little when squeezed, then they should be refrigerated until they're ready to serve. Substitutes: atemoya OR sweetsop OR soursop (larger) OR llama OR combine equal parts strawberries, bananas, and pineapple

Chinese date (fresh) = jujube (fresh) Notes: These are usually dried, but you can sometimes find fresh dates in late summer and fall. When you get them home, let them ripen on the counter for awhile until they become soft and sweet. Substitutes: apples OR prunes

chirimolla See cherimoya.

chirimoya See cherimoya.

chocolate pudding fruit See sapote.

cooking banana See plantain.

custard apple See cherimoya.

dragon fruit = strawberry pear

dragon's eyes See longan.

duku See langsat.

durian = stinky fruit Notes: The weird and smelly durian has attracted a cult-like following. It's called the King of Fruits by aficionados in Southeast Asia, but Westerners usually don't care much for its mild oniony flavor. Once cut open, the durian gives off such a strong and foul odor that it's banned on Singaporean subways. Look for it in Asian markets. The boiled seeds of the durian are called betons.

egg fruit See canistel.

feijoa = feijoda = pineapple guava Pronunciation: feh-JO-uh Notes: To eat feijoas, just cut them in half and scoop out the pulp with a spoon. They also make terrific preserves and syrups. Look for them in large supermarkets. If they're hard when you buy them, allow them to ripen at room temperature until they give a bit when you squeeze them, then store them in the refrigerator. Substitutes: kiwi fruit OR pineapple OR strawberries OR guava

feijoda See feijoa.

goyave See guava.

granadilla See passionfruit.

grosella See Otaheite gooseberry.

guanabana See soursop.

guava = guayaba = goyave = guyava Equivalents: One guava yields about 1/2 cup pulp. Notes: These bruise easily, so markets usually sell them while they're still hard and green. Allow them to ripen at room temperature until they become yellow and very aromatic, then either eat or refrigerate them. Don't peel them, just remove the seeds. Substitutes: pineapple OR strawberries

guayaba See guava.

guyava See guava.

illama Notes: These are hard to find outside of Mexico or Guatamala. Substitutes: sweetsop OR cherimoya

Indian date See tamarind.

Indian fig See prickly pear.

Indian pear See prickly pear.

jackfruit = jakfruit = jak = nankga Notes: This is the largest tree-borne fruit in the world--it weighs up to 100 pounds. It's hard to find fresh in the United States, but Asian markets sometimes stock canned jackfruit. The yellowish pulp tastes a bit like banana. The seeds can be boiled and eaten. Watch out for the sap--it can stain your clothes. Substitutes: breadfruit (smaller than jackfruit) OR papaya OR pineapple OR lychee

jak See jackfruit.

jakfruit See jackfruit.

laichee See litchi.

langsat = lanzone = duku = lansek = lanson = lanzon Notes: This sweet and sour fruit from Southeast Asia looks like a small potato. Don't eat the bitter seed inside.

lansek See langsat.

lanson See langsat.

lanzon See langsat.

lanzone See langsat.

leechee See litchi.

lichee See litchi.

lichi See litchi.

litchi = lychee = lichee = lichi = leechee = laichee Notes: This popular Chinese fruit is about the size of a walnut, with a bumpy red shell encasing white translucent pulp that's similar in texture to a grape. The flavor is sweet, exotic, and very juicy. Don't eat the shell or the seed. Fresh litchis are available from May to July. If you can't find them, canned litchis are a good substitute. Don't confuse fresh litchis with litchi nuts, which are sun-dried litchis that have a much different texture. Substitutes: rambutans (slightly larger) OR longans (smaller and sweeter, but not as juicy) OR grapes

longan = lungan = dragon's eyes Notes: Longans are very similar to lychees and rambutans. You can buy them fresh (in the summer), dried or canned. Substitutes: lychees (larger and juicier, but not as sweet) OR rambutans

lungan See longan.

lychee See litchi.

mabolo = velvet apple Shopping hints: These look like rust-colored fuzzy apples. Substitutes: peach

mamey See mamey sapote.

mamey sapote = mammee = mamey Notes: These are about the size of a large sweet potato. The flesh is salmon-colored, with a sweet, berry-like flavor. They're great for eating out of hand, or for making fruit salads or smoothies. Markets often sell them while they're still hard and underripe, so you need to set them on the counter for a few days until they yield when gently squeezed. Peel them and remove the seeds before serving. Substitutes: white sapote OR black sapote

mammee See mamey sapote.

mangostan See mangosteen.

mangosteen = mangostan Notes: Some claim that this is the most delicious fruit on the planet. It's hard to find outside of the tropics, but I've seen some in Amsterdam. It's about the size of a tomato, and has a leathery, mottled skin. Substitutes: strawberries OR mango

maracudja See passionfruit.

maracuja See passionfruit.

marmalade plum See sapote.

maypop

mellowfruit See pepino.

melon pear See pepino.

Mexican custard apple See sapote.

monstera = ceriman = Mexican breadfruit Notes: You'll probably have to go to Florida to find this bizarre tropical fruit. It looks like a banana covered with green scales, which buckle and separate as the fruit ripens. Beneath the scales are kernels of pulp, which you scrape off like corn from a cob. The kernels have a pleasant tropical flavor and creamy texture. Wait until the scales separate before eating the kernels--unripe monsteras can irritate your mouth. Substitutes: bananas OR pineapple

moya Notes: The family of moyas includes atemoya, cherimoya, soursop, and sweetsop, all of which can be used interchangeably. All these fruits have scaly peels and hard black seeds, which you need to remove before eating. Substitutes: mango

nankga See jackfruit.

naseberry See sapodilla.

natal plum See carissa.

Otaheite gooseberry = grosella = cheremai Notes: This tart fruit looks and tastes like a gooseberry. Substitutes: gooseberries

pana de pepita See breadfruit.

Panama berry See Capulin (cherry).

panapen See breadfruit.

papaw See papaya or pawpaw.

passionfruit = passion fruit = granadilla = maracudja = maracuja Equivalents: Pulp from 12 passionfruits will yield 1 cup of purée. Notes: This aromatic fruit has a tart, tropical flavor. The red granadilla is more highly esteemed than the more acidic yellow granadilla or sweeter purple granadilla. They're ripe when their skins are wrinkled. The seeds are small and edible, so leave them in if you like. Substitutes: guava OR pineapple (especially for juice)

pawpaw = papaw Notes: Australians use this name for the papaya, while others use it for the cherimoya. A real pawpaw has a dark brown peel and orange flesh. Eat only after it's completely ripe. Substitutes: bananas

pepino = pepino melon = mellowfruit = treemelon = melon pear = sweet cucumber = melon shrub = pear melon Pronunciation: pah-PEE-no Notes: These are juicy and have a mild melon flavor. You can eat the peel if you like. Substitutes: tamarillo OR pear OR cantaloupe OR prickly pear OR papaya OR cantaloupe

pepino melon See pepino.

pineapple guava See feijoa.

pitahaya See pitaya.

pitaya = pitahaya = cactus fruit = apple cactus Notes: A few companies are starting to import this yellow cactus fruit from South America. Substitutes: kiwi (similar, but not as sweet)

pitomba Substitutes: apricots

plantain = cooking banana = platano = platano macho = Adam's fig = macho banana Shopping hints: These look just like large green bananas, and they're usually cooked before eating. Hispanic and Caribbean use them like potatoes, either frying them or boiling them in stews. Different recipes may call for plantains in varying stages of ripeness, with their skins either green, yellow, or black. A green plantain will first turn yellow and then black if allowed to ripen at room temperature. As it ripens, the pulp becomes sweeter and less starchy. Substitutes: bananas (preferably underripe ones) OR sweet potatoes OR breadfruit (especially for tostones) OR potatoes (especially if fried)

platano See plantain.

platano macho See plantain.

prickly pear = Indian fig = Indian pear = barbary fig = tuna = cactus pear Notes: The pulp of these cactus fruits is a brilliant red or, occasionally, a yellowish green, and it tastes a bit like watered-down watermelon. Cooks exploit the color by adding slices of the pulp to fruit salads, or by puréeing it and straining out the seeds. They're quite popular in Hispanic countries and around the Mediterranean. Substitutes: pepino melon OR watermelon (much larger)

rambutan Notes: These are similar to litchees and longans, but they're covered with soft spines. Substitutes: lychees (smaller) OR longans (smaller yet) Cooking hints: Peel before using.

rose apple Notes: These rose or green fruits are pear-shaped and are said to taste like rose water. The seeds are poisonous. Substitutes: apples (not as acidic)

roselle Shopping hints: This is grown in Africa. Substitutes: cranberries

salak Shopping hints: These are about the size of a plum and are covered with brown scales.

sapodilla = naseberry Shopping hints: This fruit looks like a bald, brown kiwi fruit. Substitutes: pear OR black sapote OR mamey sapote OR canistel (sweeter) OR cherimoya OR persimmon OR apricot

sapota See sapote.

sapote = sapota = zapote = Mexican custard apple = marmalade plum Pronunciation: sah-POH-tay OR sah-POH-tee Notes: This is a family of sweet, tropical fruits. Varieties include the black sapote = chocolate pudding fruit, the brown-skinned, pink-fleshed mamey sapote = mammee = mamey, and the white sapote = zapote blanco. Substitutes: sapodilla OR canistel OR soursop OR cherimoya OR persimmon OR plum OR peach OR mango

sherbet fruit See cherimoya.

soursop = guanabana Pronunciation: sow-ER-sop Notes: This large, dark green fruit is covered with soft prickles. The pulp has a slightly acidic, tropical flavor. Don't eat the seeds or peel. Substitutes: cherimoya (smaller)

star apple = caimito Notes: These are similar to star fruit, only with purple skins. Substitutes: star fruit

stinky fruit See durian.

sugar apple See sweetsop.

sweet cucumber See pepino.

sweetsop = sugar apple Notes: This sweet tropical fruit looks a bit like a small cherimoya. It's great for eating of hand or for making shakes. It's available in the fall, but it's hard to find outside of Florida. Substitutes: atemoya (this is a cross between the sweetsop and cherimoya) OR cherimoya

tamarind = asam jawa = Indian date = tamarindo Notes: The pulp from the tamarind pod is used as a souring agent in Latin America, India, the Middle East, Africa, and Asia. To extract the pulp, shell the pods, put them in a saucepan, then add enough water to completely cover the pulp. Simmer for about half an hour, then strain out and discard the seeds. It's a nuisance to do this, so many cooks simply buy the extracted pulp in bricks, jars, cans, powders, or bottles. There's also a sweet tamarind, which looks like the sour variety and is used

primarily to make drinks. Substitutes: asam gelugor OR lime juice OR lemon juice OR vinegar mixed with some sugar OR amchoor

tamarindo See tamarind.

tamarillo = tree tomato = tomate de árbol Pronunciation: tam-uh-RIHL-oh Notes: This fruit is notable more for its ravishing beauty than its flavor. It's about the size of a oblong plum, with a smooth peel that can be purple, red, orange, or yellow, with the yellow variety tending to be a bit sweeter. Slicing it in half reveals black or orange flesh (the darker the peel, the darker the flesh) surrounding a nest of seeds. It's more acidic than sweet, and tastes a bit like a tomato. It's best if it's peeled and cooked before eating. Substitutes: papaya (sweeter, not as acidic)

toddy palm seeds = loog than (Thai) = tad gola Notes: These are seeds from the toddy or jaggery palm. Sap from the same tree is used to make jaggery (a kind of sugar), wine, and vinegar. You have to cook them before you can eat them. People in Indian and Southeast Asia roast and split the seeds, then suck out the yellow gelatinous pulp inside. It's available frozen or canned in Indian and Southeast Asian markets. Be careful if you pick your own: the red fruit surrounding the seeds contains oxalic acid, which can burn your skin and do even more damage if eaten.

treemelon See pepino.

tree tomato See tamarillo.

tropical cherry See Capulin (cherry).

tropic cherry See Capulin (cherry).

tuna See prickly pear.

vegetable brains See ackee.

vegetable egg See ackee.

velvet apple See mabolo.

white sapote = zapote blanco = matasano = casimiroa = custard apple Notes: This tropical fruit has sweet, creamy pulp that's wonderful in fruit salads or shakes. They arrive in the summer. Since they bruise easily when ripe, they're usually sold while they're still hard. Take them home and let them ripen on the counter for a few days until they yield to a gentle squeeze. Remove the peel and seeds before serving. Substitutes: sapote

zapote See sapote.

zapote blanco See white sapote.

Melons

Melons are great all by themselves, though some people like to perk up their flavor by sprinkling lemon juice, salt, or liqueur on them. Look for three things when selecting a melon: (1) Was it picked too soon? Each variety turns a certain color at maturity. If your melon isn't the right color, reject it. (2) Is it damaged? If it has soft spots, cracks, or mold, reject it. (3) Is it ripe? Even mature melons may need a few days to ripen fully.

If a melon flunks either of the first two tests, don't buy it. If it passes those tests, but isn't ripe, just leave it on your kitchen counter for a few days until it reaches full flavor. All melons should also be heavy for their size.

Substitutes: starfruit OR papayas (these also work in salsas)

Equivalents: One pound = one cup, cubes

Varieties:

African horned cucumber See kiwano (melon).

African horned melon See kiwano (melon).

ambrosia melon Notes: This looks and tastes like a cantaloupe, but the flesh is a brighter orange. Substitutes: cantaloupe

Canary melon = Juan Canary melon Notes: These tend to vary in quality, so unless you're good at selecting melons, stick with more idiot-proof varieties like the honeydew or cantaloupe. Canaries should, at a minimum, have bright yellow rinds. They're in season in the fall. Substitutes: honeydew OR cantaloupe

cantaloupe = nutmeg melon = muskmelon = netted melon = rockmelon Notes: These are popular because they're easy to select and very sweet. Ripe cantaloupes have dull yellow backgrounds with raised netting. Avoid those with protruding stems, or tears in the rind at the stem end--it's a tell-tale

sign that the melon was picked too soon. When ripe melons are picked, the stem falls off easily, leaving a small, clean depression. After checking the stem end, flip the melon over and check the blossom end. It should be fragrant and yield a bit when pressed. Cantaloupes are cheapest in the summer. Substitutes: Cranshaw melon OR honeydew melon OR Persian melon (larger)

casaba melon Notes: These aren't as flavorful as other melons, but they have a fairly long shelf life. Since they have thick rinds, it's useless to smell them as a test for ripeness. Look instead at the color (it should be bright yellow), and then check to see if the blossom end yields to gentle pressure. Substitutes: Santa Claus melon (These also have a long shelf life.) OR Crenshaw melon OR Spanish melon OR Sharlyn melon OR cantaloupe

Charantais melon = French Charantais melon Notes: This is reputed to be one of the best melon varieties of all. Substitutes: honeydew melon OR cantaloupe

Christmas melon See Santa Claus melon.

Crane melon Notes: This melon-cantaloupe cross is exceptionally juicy and flavorful, but it's hard to find outside of Sonoma County, California. Substitutes: cantaloupe

Cranshaw melon = Crenshaw melon Notes: This large, popular melon is a cross between the Persian and Casaba melons. The rinds come in two colors: yellow and creamy white. The yellow ones taste better. You can buy Cranshaws while they're still a little underripe and let them sit on the counter for a few days. When fully ripe, a Cranshaw will be fragrant and yield slightly to gentle pressure at its blossom end. They're best in the fall. Substitutes: casaba melon OR Persian melon OR Sharlyn melon OR Spanish melon OR cantaloupe OR honeydew melon

Crenshaw melon See Cranshaw melon.

English tomato See kiwano (melon).

Galia melon Notes: This sweet, juicy melon is a honeydew-cantaloupe cross. Its biggest drawback is its relatively high price. Substitutes: honeydew OR cantaloupe

hedged gourd See kiwano (melon).

honeyball melon = honey ball melon Notes: This is just like a honeydew melon, only it's smaller, rounder, and covered with netting. Substitutes: honeydew melon (larger) OR cantaloupe

honeydew melon = honey dew melon Notes: These large, choice melons have either green or orange flesh. As honeydews ripen, they turn from green to creamy white to yellow. Avoid green ones, but a creamy white one will (unlike other melons) ripen on your counter in a few days. A perfectly ripe honeydew will yield just a bit to pressure at the blossom end and have a sticky, velvety rind. Substitutes: cantaloupe OR Cranshaw melon

horned melon See kiwano (melon).

jelly melon See kiwano (melon).

kharbouza melon Notes: This is a very crunchy, mildly sweet melon.

kiwano = kiwano melon = horned melon = African horned cucumber = African horned melon = English tomato = hedged gourd = jelly melon = melano Pronunciation: kee-WAH-noh Notes: This melon has a gorgeous orange rind with spikes--poke a stick in it and you'd have a medieval mace for a Halloween costume. The yellow-green flesh has the consistency of jello, and tastes a bit like cucumbers. Substitutes: cucumber (the flesh lacks the brilliant chartreuse color of the kiwano's flesh.) OR other melon

melano See kiwano (melon).

muskmelon See cantaloupe.

netted melon See cantaloupe.

nutmeg melon See cantaloupe.

Ogen melon Notes: This melon hails from Israel, and it's very highly regarded by melon fans. Substitutes: honeydew melon OR cantaloupe

Persian melon Notes: These are large, round melons. They're excellent when vine-ripened, but mediocre when not. Avoid Persian melons that have green backgrounds below the netting--they were picked too early. Also avoid those with protruding stems, or tears in the rind at the stem end--it's a tell-tale sign that the melon was picked too soon. When ripe melons are picked, the stem falls off easily, leaving a small, clean depression. They peak in the summer months. Substitutes: Cranshaw (a cross between the Persian and casaba melons) OR Sharlyn melon (white flesh instead of orange) OR cantaloupe (smaller)

rockmelon See cantaloupe.

Santa Claus melon = Christmas melon Notes: This is distinguished mostly by its long shelf life--you can store an uncut Santa Claus melon for several months. They have thick rinds, so don't bother smelling them for ripeness--they don't give off much of an aroma. Substitutes: honeydew (better flavor) OR cantaloupe (better flavor) OR casaba melons (These also have a long shelf life.)

Sharlyn melon Notes: When ripe, this has an orange background with green netting. It's very perishable, so don't wait more than two days after getting it home to eat it. Substitutes: Persian melon (This has orange, not white, flesh) OR Cranshaw melon OR Spanish melon OR cantaloupe

Spanish melon = Green Tendral melon = Elche honeydew Notes: These are delicious melons, but it's hard to know when they're fully ripe. Unlike most other melons, a ripe Spanish melon will have a green rind and be firm at the blossom end. Substitutes: cranshaw melon OR casaba melon

watermelon Notes: There are about 50 varieties of watermelon on the market. They all taste about the same, but they vary in size, flesh color, and in whether they are seeded or seedless. Picnic melons are largest, while icebox melons are round and compact. Many stores also carry yellow-fleshed, white-fleshed, and seedless melons. The rind should be heavy for its size, and free of bruises, soft spots, or cuts. To check for ripeness, look at the pale side of the melon (where it rested while it was growing)--it should be yellow, not white. If your market sells halved watermelons, inspect the flesh--it should be firm, brightly colored, and free of white streaks. Seeded watermelons should have dark brown or black seeds. To store, wrap watermelon slices loosely in plastic and refrigerate for up to two days. Uncut watermelon can be stored at room temperature (preferably in a cool spot) for up to two weeks. Substitutes: honeydew melon

yellow melon = dua gan = Korean melon Notes: These melons are small, about the size of medium papaya. They taste like cantaloupe, but with firmer flesh. Substitutes: cantaloupe

Dried Fruit

Dried fruit is a terrific snack, but cooks also use it in everything from muffins to stews. Drying has the obvious advantage of letting us enjoy our favorite fruit when it's out of season, but it also serves to concentrate the fruit's flavor and sugar. Since high concentrations of sugar ward off bacteria, dried fruit can last up to a year without refrigeration. If you live in a hot, dry climate, you can dry fruit just by leaving it out in the sun for a few days. If not, you can use an oven or dehydrator. Sulfur dioxide is sometimes added to the fruit to improve its shelf life and color. If you're allergic to it, you can usually find unsulfured dried fruit at health food stores. In a pinch, you can remove some of the sulfur by boiling treated dried fruit for a minute or so, then draining off the liquid.

Substitutes: nuts

apple, dried Notes: These are popular additions to trail mixes. They're often treated with sulfur to improve their color and shelf life. Substitutes: dried pear

apricot, dried Notes: Turkish dried apricots are lighter in color and milder in flavor than other varieties. They're often treated with sulfur to improve their color and shelf life. Substitutes: dried peach OR dried nectarines OR dried tomatoes

dried apricot paste = qamar el-deen = ameerdine Notes: People in the Middle East usually make a drink out of this fruit leather by putting it into boiling water. During Ramadan, it's often served before and after the day-long fast. Look for it in Middle Eastern markets.

banana, dried Notes: These usually come in two forms: long spears, which are very sweet and best for cooking, and chips, which are fried in oil, crunchy, and best suited for trail mixes. Substitutes: dried coconut OR other dried fruit

cantaloupe, dried Notes: These are very sweet and have an intense cantaloupe flavor. Substitutes: dried papaya

carrots, dried Notes: These are used to make muffins and cakes.

cherry, dried Notes: These are large and sweet, and they can serve as a refreshing alternative to raisins in many recipes. Substitutes: dried cranberries (not as sweet) OR raisins OR dried apricots OR currants

Chinese date = Chinese red date = red date = senjed = Chinese jujube (dried) = jujube (dried) Pronunciation: JEW-jewb Notes: When fresh, these fruits are crisp like apples and have a mild, sweet flavor. In the United States, they're most often available dried. Substitutes: dates (sweeter) OR dried apples OR prunes OR raisins

Chinese jujube See Chinese date.

Chinese red date See Chinese date.

citrus peel, dried = fruit peel, dried To make your own: Begin with orange, lemon, tangerine, or grapefruit peels, scrape off and discard as much of the bitter white pith as possible, and dry what's left in the sun until hard. Substitutes: grated zest from a fresh peel (Fresh peels are better than dried peels since they have more aromatic oils.)

coconut, grated Notes: Bags of grated coconuts are usually stored among the baking supplies in larger markets. Varieties include dried or desiccated coconut, flaked, angel flake, moist, sweetened and unsweetened, toasted and untoasted, and macaroon coconut. To make your own: To grate, peel off the brown skin, then grate the white flesh with a grater, food processor, or vegetable peeler. To toast, spread unsweetened grated coconut on a baking sheet and bake in a 350°F oven until coconut is golden (about 5 minutes) Substitutes: chopped nuts

Craisins See cranberries, dried.

cranberries, dried Notes: With their flashy color and tangy flavor, dried cranberries are a good alternative to raisins in many recipes. Craisins is a well-known brand. Substitutes: raisins (not as tart) OR dried cherries OR currants

currants = Zante currants = Zante raisins = dried Corinth grapes Notes: These dried Zante grapes look like tiny raisins. Don't confuse them with the fresh sour berry that also called a currant. Substitutes: raisins (larger) OR golden raisins (for baking)

date, dried Notes: If you plan to chop them, look for cooking dates, date pieces, or pressed dates--they're a lot cheaper than the exquisite dessert dates that are intended to be eaten whole. Substitutes: dried figs OR raisins OR fresh dates (crunchier and not as sweet)

fig, dried Notes: These are a great source of calcium. Varieties include the black mission fig, the highly regarded Calimyrna fig (pictured at right), and the juicy green fig. Substitutes: raisins (milder) OR prunes

ghora angur See sumac berries.

golden raisin = Sultana Notes: These are more tart than ordinary raisins. Substitutes: raisins (Ordinary raisins are darker, but very similar to golden raisins.) OR muscat raisins (These are larger and sweeter than golden raisins.) OR currants (smaller) OR dried apricots

jujube See Chinese date.

kokum = kokum ful = cocum Notes: This Indian souring agent is made from dried mangosteen peels. It's often used in fish dishes. Look for it in Indian markets. Substitutes: tamarind paste (Substitute one teaspoon for every piece of kokum call for in recipe.)

leechee nut See litchi nut.

lichee nut See litchi nut.

lichi nut See litchi nut.

litchi nut = lychee nut = lichee nut = lichi nut = leechee nut Notes: These are sun-dried litchis. The outer shells are brown and the meat inside looks like a large raisin. Look for them in Asian markets. Substitutes: prunes (not as crunchy) OR cashews

lychee nut See litchi nut.

mango, dried Notes: These are sometimes coated with sugar. Substitutes: dried papaya

mulberries, dried = toot Notes: These are the size of large raisins, and they taste like very dry figs. Look for them in Middle Eastern markets.

muscat raisins Notes: These are large and very sweet. Substitutes: raisins (smaller and less sweet) OR golden raisins (golden color, smaller, more tart) OR dried dates

nectarines, dried Notes: These are similar to dried peaches, but often a bit more expensive. They're often treated with sulfur. Substitutes: dried peaches OR dried apricots

papaya, dried Notes: These are sometimes coated with sugar. Substitutes: dried cantaloupe OR dried mango

peach, dried Notes: These are similar to dried apricots, only larger and milder. They're often treated with sulfur. Substitutes: dried nectarines OR dried apricots

pear, dried Notes: These don't have the cloying sweetness of some dried fruits. They're often gassed with sulfur dioxide in the drying process in order to improve their color and shelf life. Substitutes: dried apples

persimmon, dried Substitutes: other dried fruit

pineapple, dried Notes: These are sometimes coated with sugar. Substitutes: dried papaya OR dried mango

plum, dried See prune.

prune = dried plum Notes: In a marketing makeover, producers are starting to call these dried plums instead of prunes. Whatever you call them, they're sweet and just loaded with dietary fiber, iron, and other nutrients. You can eat them whole, chop them into sauces and stews, or make a compote out of them. Substitutes: raisins OR dried figs

raisins = dried grapes Notes: The common raisins we see on supermarket shelves are usually dried Thompson seedless grapes. Golden raisins are amber in color and somewhat tart--many cooks prefer them over ordinary raisins for baking and cooking. Muscat raisins are dark and very sweet, and they work well in fruitcakes. Currants are about one-quarter the size of ordinary raisins, and are typically used in baked goods. Store raisins in the refrigerator after you open the package. Substitutes: prunes OR dried cranberries OR dried apricots OR dried dates OR dried cherries OR chocolate chips OR nuts OR dried figs (stronger flavor)

red date See Chinese date.

senjed See Chinese date.

somagh See sumac berries.

sour prunes Notes: Look for these in Middle Eastern markets. Substitutes: Soak ordinary prunes in vinegar overnight. OR tamarind paste

strawberries, dried Notes: These are sweet and chewy, and they're great in trail mixes or granola. Substitutes: dried cherries

sun-dried tomatoes = dried tomatoes Notes: Dried tomatoes have a richer, more concentrated flavor than ordinary tomatoes. They're great for snacking, or tossing in salads or sauces or on pizzas. Dried tomatoes usually come either dry or packed in oil. If they're hard and dry, steep them in boiling water for about 5 minutes before using them. Substitutes: tomato paste (in sauces)

Zante currants See currant.

Zante raisins See currant.

Pome Fruit

Synonyms: pomes = false fruit

Pronunciation: Rhymes with home.

The family of pome fruits include apples, pears, quinces, Asian pears, and loquats.

Varieties:

apples

apple pear See Asian pear.

Asian pear = apple pear = Japanese pear = Chinese pear = Oriental pear = sand pear = nashi = nashi pear = salad pear Notes: Asian pears are crunchy, juicy, and very fragrant. Growers produce over twenty different varieties in an assortment of sizes and colors. They're often served raw, but they can also be cooked, though they never become as soft as cooked pears. Substitutes: Bosc pear (not as crisp and firm, nor as flowery in flavor) OR apple (different flavor, similar texture) OR quince (for stews or baked dishes)

Chinese pear See Asian pear.

crab apple = crabapple Notes: These small apples are too tart to eat raw, but they're loaded with pectin and make great jams and jellies. Substitutes: quince

golden apple See quince.

Japanese pear See Asian pear.

loquat = Japanese plum = Japanese medlar Pronunciation: LOW-kwat Notes: These are popular in Asia, where they're eaten raw and cooked into sauces that accompany meat. They bruise very easily, which may explain their rarity in American markets. Substitutes: sour cherry (especially for preserves and baked desserts) OR quince OR mango OR plum OR tart apple OR pear (not as tart)

nashi See Asian pear.

Oriental pear See Asian pear.

pear

quince = golden apple Notes: This pleasantly tart fruit needs to be cooked before eating. Quinces are high in pectin, so they're commonly used to make jams and jellies. Some cooks simply bake them like apples. They come into season from August to December. Substitutes: Asian pears (Like quince, these hold their shape when cooked for long periods.) OR crab apples OR Granny Smith apples OR pippin apples OR Rhode Island Greening apples

salad pear See Asian pear.

sand pear See Asian pear.

Apples

Crisp, juicy apples are great in lunchboxes, but they can also be made into pies and tarts, pressed into cider, or baked with sugar and spices. Select apples that are firm, deeply colored, and of average size. Reject those that have soft spots or broken skins. They're available throughout the year, but they're usually better and cheaper in the fall.

Equivalents

Three medium apples weigh about one pound. One medium apple yields about one cup of slices.

Substitutes

Asian pear OR pear OR quince (A good choice for baking. It's pleasantly tart, and the fruit holds its shape

very well.) OR chayote squash (This makes a terrific "apple" pie.)

Varieties

Softer apples are best for applesauce, while firmer apples are best for baking and making pies. You can increase the sweetness or acidity of the product by adding sugar or a few drops of lemon juice to the recipe.

Best for eating out of hand: Gala, Fuji, Mutsu, Jonathan, Cameo, Golden Delicious, Cortland, Empire, Red Delicious, McIntosh, Braeburn, Winesap, Pink Lady, Sundowner

Best for pies: Northern Spy, Golden Delicious, Rhode Island Greening, Pippin, Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Gravenstein

Best for applesauce: Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, McIntosh, Elstar, Cortland, Fuji, Gala, Gravenstein

Best for baking: Rome, Jonagold, Granny Smith, Pippin, Gala, Braeburn, Northern Spy, Gravenstein, Rhode Island Greening, York Imperial, Cortland, Winesap

Best for making salads: Cortland, Golden Delicious, Empire, Gala, Red Delicious, Fuji, Winesap, Criterion, Pink Lady

ambrosia apple Notes: Crisp and juicy, this is a great apple for snacking.

Arkansas Black apple Notes: This apple is renown for its long shelf life. It's good for making sauce and baking.

Baldwin apple Notes: This is a fairly sweet, all-purpose apple, but it's hard to find.

Braeburn apple

This firm and juicy apple is good for eating out of hand or for baking.

Cameo apple

This firm, mildly tart apple is quite versatile. Use Cameos in pies, applesauce, salads, or just eat them out of hand.

Cortland apple Notes: These are all-purpose apples. Since their flesh is slow to brown after it's cut, Cortland apples are especially good in salads. If substituting another variety in a salad, dip it in acidulated water first to keep it from darkening.

Criterion apple Notes: This is a good apple for eating out of hand, or for making applesauce or pies. Its flesh is slow to brown after it's cut.

Elstar apple

This firm apple is especially good for making applesauce.

Empire apple

This is a Red Delicious-McIntosh cross that's great for baking or eating out of hand.

Enterprise apple

Fuji apple

This variety is good for eating out of hand, or for making applesauce or pies.

Gala apple

This apple is outstanding for eating out of hand or for baking or making applesauce.

Golden Delicious apple

This sweet apple is good for eating out of hand, baking, and for making pies. The yellower the better.

Granny Smith apple

This is a firm, tart apple that's good for baking, making pies, and eating out of hand. They tend to have thick skins, so you might want to peel them before serving.

Gravenstein apple Notes: This is a good, all-purpose apple, but it's best suited for making applesauce and pies.

Jonagold apple

This crisp, juicy apple is a Jonathan-Golden Delicious cross. It's a bit tart and good for eating out of hand.

Jonathan apple

This tart apple is good for eating out of hand, though it has a fairly thick peel.

Lady apple

These are very small apples, and usually used for decoration.

Macoun apple Pronunciation: muh-KOON Notes: This juicy apple is good for eating out of hand.

McIntosh apple

These soft apples are great for snacking or for making applesauce, but don't bake them or put them in pies.

Mutsu apple = Crispin apple

Pronunciation: MUTT-sue

This is a very juicy, crisp, all-purpose apple.

Northern Spy apple Notes: These tart, firm apples are terrific in pies, but they're hard to find.

Pink Lady apple

This is a cross between a Golden Delicious and a Lady William. It's sweet and crisp, and good in salads and pies.

Pippin apple = Newtown Pippin apple

This is a firm, tart apple that's great for pies, baking, and applesauce.

Red Delicious apple

These sweet, soft apples are good for eating out of hand, but don't bake them or use them in pies. Avoid buying them in the summer; they sometimes get mushy.

Rhode Island Greening

These are especially good for baking.

Rome apple = Rome Beauty apple

These are best used for baking and for making applesauce. They don't work well in pies.

Sierra Beauty apple

This is a juicy, crisp and somewhat tart apple. It doesn't hold its shape well when cooked, but it's great for eating out of hand.

Spartan apple

This is a cross between the McIntosh and Pippin apples. It's a good all-purpose apple.

Sundowner apple Notes: Like the Pink Lady apple, this is a a cross between a Golden Delicious and a Lady Williams. It's very good for eating out of hand.

Winesap = Stayman Winesap

This tart apple is great for eating out of hand or for making cider. It keeps for a relatively long time.

York Imperial

These are especially good for baking.

Southern rose apple

This is a good apple for eating out of hand.

Pears

It's hard to improve on the flavor of a soft, juicy raw pear, but combine it with blue cheese or prosciutto, and you'll have something truly divine. You can also bake or poach pears, or use them to make tarts. They become soft and fragile when they're ripe, so grocers want you to buy them while they're still hard and then ripen them at home for a few days. Putting them in a paper bag speeds up the process. They're ready to eat when the base yields slightly to pressure from your thumb.

Substitutes

apples (Like pears, these are good for baking or eating out of hand.) OR Asian pears (These are crunchier and take longer to cook.) OR quinces (These have a tarter flavor; they're great baked.) OR figs OR pepinos

Equivalents: 1 pound = 3 pears

Varieties

Anjou pear = d'Anjou pear

Pronunciation: AWN-jew

These economical pears aren't as tasty as some of the other varieties, but they're still good for both eating and cooking. The peel stays light green even when the pear is ripe.

Bartlett pear = Williams pear

These are very juicy and great for eating out of hand. They turn yellow when ripe.

Bosc pear

This firm and crunchy pear is the best choice for cooking, because it holds its shape nicely. Bosc pears can also be eaten out of hand.

California sugar pear

This small pear is the same size as a Seckel pear, but it's not as juicy and sweet.

Comice pear

Pronunciation: kuh-MEES

These juicy pears are considered to be the best for eating out of hand, but they're very expensive.

d'Anjou pear See Anjou pear.

French butter pear

red Anjou pear

Very similar to a green Anjou pear.

red Bartlett pear

This tastes just like a yellow Bartlett, but it's more attractive and more expensive.

red cascade pear

Seckel pear = sugar pear

These are small pears with red and green skins. They're very sweet and juicy and they'd be absolutely perfect if only the skins weren't a bit too thick.

Starkrimson pear

Taylor's Gold pear

Williams pear See Bartlett pear.

Winter Nellis pear

These are especially good for baking.

Preserves & Fruit Butters

apple butter To make your own: Bring 2 cups sliced apples, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1/4 cup apple juice or cider to a boil, then simmer gently for one hour, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, add 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, then mix in a blender or food processor until smooth.

applesauce Substitutes: pumpkin puree OR plum puree

apricot jam

black currant jelly See currant jelly.

blueberry jam

cloudberry preserves Notes: These preserves are sweet and somewhat mild. Look for them in Scandinavian markets.

cranberry sauce

currant jelly Notes: There are two types: black currant jelly and the far more common red currant jelly. Substitutes: grape jelly OR 3 parts apple jelly plus 1 part lemon juice OR muscadine jelly

ginger jam Where to find: Asian grocery stores Substitutes: chopped candied ginger

gooseberry preserves

grape jelly Substitutes: muscadine jelly OR red currant jelly

kumquats in syrup. Substitutes: preserved figs

lekvar See pureed prunes.

loganberry jam

maraschino cherry Pronunciation: mare-uh-CHEE-noh OR mare-uh-SKEE-noh Notes: These sugar-soaked and dyed cherries come in two colors: red (almond flavored) or green (mint flavored). Cooks usually use them to garnish desserts and drinks.

marmalade

membrillo = quince paste Notes: This is a Spanish delicacy.

mincemeat

mint-flavored apple jelly

muscadine jelly Substitutes: grape jelly OR red currant jelly

prune butter See pureed prunes.

prune lekvar See pureed prunes.

prune puree See pureed prunes.

pureed prunes = prune puree = prune lekvar = lekvar = prune butter To make your own: Simmer for ten minutes one cup pitted prunes plus one cup water, then puree strained prunes plus1/4 cup cooking liquid OR mix in blender or food processor 1 1/3 cup pitted prunes and 6 tablespoons water until prunes are finely chopped. Substitutes: apple butter OR Lighter Bake (a mixture of pureed prunes and apples)

quince paste

raspberry preserves

red currant jelly See currant jelly.

strawberry preserves

Candied Foods

candied angelica Notes: These are used to make decorative flour stems on cakes. Substitutes: Make stems out of green marzipan. Allow them to harden for a few days before using.

candied apricot = glacéed apricot = abricot glacé = glace apricot

candied citron peel To make your own: See the candied citrus peel entry.

candied citrus peel To make your own: Peel two grapefruits or three oranges, citrons, or lemons. Scrape the bitter white pith from the peels and discard. Cut the peel into narrow strips and simmer the strips in boiling water until they're tender, then drain off the water from the saucepan. In a separate saucepan, prepare a sugar syrup by combining one cup each of granulated sugar and water, and simmering until the sugar is dissolved. Add enough syrup to the peels so that they are completely covered, and then simmer the mixture until the peels are translucent. Drain, cool, and store in the refrigerator.

candied flowers To make your own: Use clean, dry, edible, pesticide-free flowers. With a fork, beat together egg white from one egg and a teaspoon of water. Using a brush, paint the petals with the egg white, then set them on a plate covered with superfine sugar. Sprinkle some of the sugar on top of the petals and shake off the excess. Lay the petals on waxed paper and allow them to dry overnight.

candied fruit = glace fruits = glacé fruits Pronunciation: glah-SAY Substitutes: chopped dried apricots

candied ginger See crystallized ginger.

candied grapefruit peel To make your own: See the candied citrus peel entry.

candied lemon peel To make your own: See the candied citrus peel entry.

candied orange peel To make your own: See the candied citrus peel entry.

candied pineapple

crystallized ginger = candied ginger To make your own: Bring to a boil 1 1/3 C sugar + 1 C water, add 1 C peeled and chopped ginger pieces, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain and dry, then sprinkle with sugar. Substitutes: ginger root (Substitute 1 tablespoon grated ginger root plus sugar to taste for 1/4 cup minced crystallized ginger called for in recipe.) OR ground ginger (Substitute 1 teaspoon ground ginger for every 1/2 cup minced crystallized ginger called for in recipe.) OR chopped

nuts

glace cherries = glacé cherries Pronunciation: glah-SAY Includes: red and green versions Substitutes: dried cherries OR dried cranberries

glace fruits See candied fruit.

Juices

apple cider Notes: Apple juice and apple cider are very similar, except that all of the apple pulp is filtered out of the juice, while some remains in the cider. Substitutes: apple juice

apple juice Notes: Apple juice and apple cider are very similar, except that all of the apple pulp is filtered out of the juice, while some remains in the cider. Substitutes: apple cider

bayberry juice

bigarade orange juice

bitter orange juice = bigarade orange juice = Seville orange juice = sour orange juice Substitutes: Mix 1 part lime or lemon juice + 2 parts orange juice OR 2 parts grapefruit juice + 1 part lime juice + dash orange zest OR 2 parts lime juice + 1 page orange juice

calamansi juice

calamondin juice Substitutes: kalamansi juice OR key lime juice

carrot juice

clam juice = clam nectar Substitutes: equal parts chicken broth and water OR fish stock

coconut juice = nam katee To make your own: In a pan, combine grated unsweetened coconut and 1 cup water. Simmer briefly, then use strained liquid.

cranberry juice To make your own: See the recipe for Cranberry Juice posted by Veggies Unite!

grape juice Notes: This category includes red grape juice, white grape juice, and sparkling grape juice. Substitutes: de-alcoholized wine (Not as sweet as grape juice; may contain small amounts of alcohol.)

grapefruit juice Notes: This comes either sweetened or unsweetened. Substitutes: orange juice (not as sour) OR pineapple juice

kalamansi juice = calamansi juice = musk lime juice = musklime juice Substitutes: Mix together 3 parts lemon juice and 1 part mandarin orange juice OR calamondin juice OR lemon juice

key lime juice = Mexican lime juice Notes: Freshly squeezed lime juice is vastly superior to what you'll find in bottles. Key limes and bottled key lime juice are widely available in the Southeast, and in specialty markets elsewhere. Liquor stores sometimes carry Rose's lime juice, which is sweetened key lime juice. Substitutes: regular (Persian) lime juice (This is less potent, so use more. Some cooks prefer freshly squeezed Persian limes over bottled key lime juice for key lime pies.) OR passion fruit juice (This has a different flavor, but works well in key lime pie recipes.) OR calamondin juice (Also works well in key lime pies) OR Rose's lime juice (this is sweetened key lime juice)

lemon juice Shopping hints: Freshly squeezed lemon juice tastes much better than bottled juice. Equivalents: One lemon yields about 2-3 tablespoons of lemon juice. Substitutes: lime juice (This is more acidic and has a different and more pronounced flavor. Substitute 3/4 cup ordinary (Persian) lime juice or 2/3 cup key lime juice for one cup lemon juice.) OR vinegar (Especially malt vinegar. Substitute ½ cup vinegar for every cup of lemon juice. Products made with vinegar tend to keep longer than those made with lemon juice.) OR crushed vitamin C tablets dissolved in water (This works well to prevent fruit from discoloring.)

lime juice = Persian lime juice Equivalents: One lime yields about 2 tablespoons lime juice. Substitutes: key lime juice (3/4 C (Persian) lime juice = 2/3 C key lime juice) OR lemon juice (3/4 C lime juice = 1 C lemon juice)

musk lime juice = musklime juice

nam katee

orange juice Substitutes: grapefruit juice OR pineapple juice

passion fruit juice Substitutes: key lime juice

Persian lime juice

pineapple juice Substitutes: grapefruit juice OR orange juice

pomegranate juice Shopping hints: Don't confuse this unsweetened juice with grenadine, which is a heavy, sweet syrup. Look for it in health food stores and Middle Eastern markets. Knudsen is a well-regarded brand.

prune juice To make your own: Simmer a mixture of 5 parts water to 1 part prunes for about three hours (if prunes are pitted) or four hours (if prunes have pits), stirring occasionally. Remove the pits, then puree what's left in a blender or food processor.

Seville orange juice

sour orange juice

tamarind juice = tamarind water = tamarind sauce = tamarind nectar To make your own: Soak one part tamarind pulp in four parts warm water, stir, then strain to obtain the juice. Substitutes: Blend 1 part molasses and 3 parts lime juice OR Combine 4 parts dark brown sugar and 3 parts lemon juice OR 4 parts dark brown sugar and 3 parts malt vinegar OR lime juice

tomato juice Substitutes: equal parts tomato sauce and water OR equal parts tomato purée and water To make your own: See the Tomato Juice Recipe posted on Recipesource.com.

V-8 Juice To make your own: See the Mitch's V-6 Vegetable Juice Cocktail Recipe posted on Fabulousfoods.com.

Milk & Cream

breakfast cream = qaimaaq Substitutes: clotted cream

clotted cream = Devonshire cream = Devon cream To make your own: See the Making Your Own Devonshire or Clotted Cream or Mock Devonshire Clotted Cream postings on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: breakfast cream

coffee cream See light cream.

concentrated milk See evaporated milk.

condensed milk See evaporated milk.

cow's milk See milk.

cream Varieties: Creams vary according to the amount of butterfat they have. Lightest of all is half & half, which is half milk, half cream and weighs in with a butterfat content between 10.5 - 18%. It can't be whipped, but it's nice with coffee, or on cereal. Light cream = coffee cream = table cream is richer at 18 - 30% fat, but it still can't be whipped. Light whipping cream = whipping cream (with a butterfat content of 30 - 36%) and heavy cream = heavy whipping cream (with at least 36% fat) are heavy enough to whip, and aren't as prone as lower-fat creams to curdling in sauces. The higher the butterfat content, the less beating is required to get whipped cream. Europeans go for even heavier creams, like double cream (with a butterfat content of 42%), extra-thick double cream, and clotted cream = Devonshire cream, which is often spread like butter over scones. Look for clotted cream in large supermarkets, but (perhaps luckily) the double creams are very hard to find. You can buy ultra-pasteurized versions of these creams, but they tend to have a burnt milk taste and don't whip as well. Substitutes: evaporated milk (This is lower in fat, and it's hard to whip. It also has a slight burnt milk taste.) OR yogurt (This tends to curdle in hot sauces or soups, but it works well in cold soups.)

Devonshire cream See clotted cream.

double cream (42% fat) Notes: This isn't available in the United States. Substitutes: heavy cream (this has a butterfat content of at least 36%) OR créme fraîche (as a dessert topping) OR egg custard (as a dessert topping)

evaporated milk = condensed milk = concentrated milk Notes: This is sold in cans, and comes either whole or nonfat. Don't confuse it with sweetened condensed milk, which has lots of sugar and is not a good substitute. While evaporated milk is sometimes called condensed milk, most recipes that call for condensed milk are referring to sweetened condensed milk. Evaporated milk is sold with varying amounts of butterfat, ranging from whole evaporated milk with about 8% to skim evaporated milk with about 0.5%. To reconstitute evaporated milk, combine it with an equal amount of water. Substitutes: half & half OR milnot (available in Britain; whips better than evaporated milk) OR cream (higher in fat, but works well in pumpkin pies) See also: milk

goat's milk Varieties: This comes with varying percentages of butterfat. You can buy it fresh, or as powdered milk, canned evaporated milk, or UHT milk packed in aseptic containers. Fresh is best for drinking and delicate desserts, the other kinds pick up an unpleasant caramelized flavor when they're heated for packaging. Substitutes: cow's milk (This is less expensive and milder-tasting, but harder to digest than goat's milk.) OR oat milk (This is more expensive and less nutritious, but a good all-purpose substitute for milk in cooking. This is a good choice for vegetarians who object to the animal exploitation involved in the production of goat's or cow's milk.) OR buttermilk (Especially good in pancakes or waffles. If using in baked goods, 1C milk = 1 C buttermilk - 2 teaspoons baking powder + 1/2 teaspoon baking soda) OR soy milk (This is more expensive and, unless fortified, less nutritious than goat's milk. It has a nutty flavor and turns beige when cooked. It works well in most baked goods, but it's a risky substitute in savory dishes.) OR rice milk (This is more expensive and, unless fortified, less nutritious. It's great for making desserts, but it's too sweet for savory dishes) OR almond milk (This is also more expensive and, unless fortified, less nutritious. It's very sweet, so use it in desserts only) OR water (This makes eggs creamier in scrambled eggs

and gives breads a coarser texture and a lighter crust.)

half-and-half = half & half (10.5 - 18% fat) Substitutes: equal parts cream and milk OR evaporated milk OR 7/8 C milk + 1 ½ tablespoons butter or margarine

heavy cream = heavy whipping cream (at least 36% fat) Substitutes: creme fraiche (for making cream sauces) OR 1 C heavy cream = ¾ C milk + 1/3 C butter (will not whip) OR light cream (will not whip) OR evaporated milk (especially in cream sauces) OR milk (will not whip; makes cream sauces much less flavorful) OR blend equal parts milk and cottage cheese (Warning: Substituting light cream or milk for heavy cream lowers the amount of fat in a dish, but it makes ice cream and sauces less rich and creamy.) OR pureed cottage cheese OR pureed ricotta cheese OR silken tofu (especially for ice cream--for directions, see the Tofu Ice Cream recipe posted by Veggie Unite!) Notes: Unlike heavy cream, lower-fat substitutes like half-and-half and evaporated milk tend to "break" or curdle when added to sauces. To prevent this from happening, heat the sauce over low or medium heat, or reduce the cream substitute before adding it to the sauce. Don't let the sauce boil. Cream sauces made with lower-fat cream substitutes also tend to have less body; to correct for that, consider adding 1 tablespoon flour or 2 teaspoons cornstarch to the sauce for every cup of evaporated milk substituted. Stir the thickener into a paste first to prevent lumps. Ultra-pasteurized whipping cream is harder to whip and has some unpleasant flavor notes.

heavy whipping cream See heavy cream.

light cream = coffee cream = table cream (18 - 30% fat) Substitutes: evaporated milk OR half and half OR 1 C = 7/8 C milk + 3 tablespoons butter OR blend equal parts milk and cottage cheese Notes: Unlike heavy cream, lower-fat substitutes like light cream, half-and-half, and evaporated milk tend to "break" or curdle when added to sauces. To prevent this from happening, heat the sauce over low or medium heat, or reduce the cream substitute before adding it to the sauce. Don't let the sauce boil. Cream sauces made with lower-fat cream substitutes also tend to have less body; to correct for that, consider adding 1 tablespoon flour or 2 teaspoons cornstarch to the sauce for every cup of evaporated milk substituted. Stir the thickener into a paste first to prevent lumps.

light whipping cream = whipping cream (30 - 36% fat) Substitutes: heavy whipping cream OR evaporated milk Notes: Unlike heavy cream or whipping cream, lower-fat substitutes like half-and-half and evaporated milk tend to "break" or curdle when added to sauces. To prevent this from happening, heat the sauce over low or medium heat, or reduce the cream substitute before adding it to the sauce. Don't let the sauce boil. Cream sauces made with lower-fat cream substitutes also tend to have less body; to correct for that, consider adding 1 tablespoon flour or 2 teaspoons cornstarch to the sauce for every cup of evaporated milk substituted. Stir the thickener into a paste first to prevent lumps.

low-fat milk See milk.

milk = cow's milk Varieties: skim milk = nonfat milk (0.5% fat), low-fat milk (2% fat), and whole milk (3.5% fat). You can buy it fresh, or as powdered milk, canned evaporated milk, or UHT milk packed in aseptic containers. Fresh is best for drinking and delicate desserts, the other kinds pick up an unpleasant caramelized flavor when they're heated for packaging. Acidophilus milk tastes much the same as ordinary milk, but it includes the beneficial acidophilus bacteria that are destroyed during pasteurization.

Substitutes: goat's milk (This is easier to digest that cow's milk. Fresh goat's milk is a good all-purpose substitute for cow's milk, but non-refrigerated forms have an unpleasant tangy, barnyard flavor that overpowers subtly-flavored dishes.) OR oat milk (This is more expensive and less nutritious, but a good all-purpose substitute for milk in cooking. A good choice for vegetarians who object to the animal exploitation involved in the production of cow's or goat's milk.) OR buttermilk (This is especially good in pancakes or waffles. If using in a baked good, 1C milk = 1 C buttermilk - 2 teaspoons baking powder + 1/2 teaspoon baking soda) OR soy milk

(This is more expensive and (unless fortified) less nutritious than ordinary milk. It has a nutty flavor and turns beige when cooked. It works well in most baked goods, but it's a risky substitute in savory dishes.) OR rice milk (This is more expensive and, unless fortified, less nutritious. It's great for making desserts, but it's too sweet for savory dishes) OR almond milk (This also is more expensive and, unless fortified, less nutritious. It's very sweet; use it in desserts only) OR water (makes eggs creamier in scrambled eggs, gives breads a coarser texture and a lighter crust) OR (in baked goods) sour cream (This makes baked goods more tender and moist. For each cup of milk you replace, subtract one teaspoon of baking powder and up to three tablespoons of fat from the recipe and add one cup of sour cream plus 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda.)

milnot Shopping hints: This is easier to find in Great Britain than in the United States. Substitutes: evaporated milk (This doesn't whip as well as milnot. To compensate for this, make sure the milk, beaters, and bowl are all very cold before whipping.)

nonfat milk See milk.

powdered milk Cooking notes: To reconstitute, combine one part milk powder with three parts water. See also: milk

qaimaaq See breakfast cream.

raw milk = real milk = fresh milk A few decades ago, the cream in milk would rise to the top and a glass of milk sitting on the counter would gradually turn sour. No more. Most commercial milk today is homogenized so that the fat is broken into small particles which remain suspended in the milk, and pasteurized to kill bacteria, including the friendly varieties that gave milk a sour tang. Raw milk isn't pasteurized; producers instead keep their cows and dairies clean in order to reduce the risk of bacterial contamination. Some people insist raw milk is more healthful than commercial milk since it contains active enzymes that help with digestion and absorption of nutrients. Many cheesemakers prefer it since pasteurization diminishes the cheese's flavor potential and homogenization gives it a waxy texture. Unfortunately, it's illegal to sell raw milk in many states. Substitutes: Nonfat milk mixed with whipping cream (When making cheese, this corrects the texture problem resulting from homogenization.) OR powdered lowfat milk

mixed with whipping cream (Also corrects texture problem when making cheese.) OR acidophilis milk (Friendly bacteria is reintroduced into this milk after pasteurization.)

skim milk See milk.

sweetened condensed milk To make your own: Visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Sweetened Condensed Milk--Homemade page.

table cream See light cream.

ultra-pasteurized cream Substitutes: whipping cream (better taste, whips better, spoils faster)

whipped cream To make your own: Beat chilled heavy cream in a chilled narrow bowl with chilled beaters until the cream forms soft peaks. To sweeten, add two tablespoons of powdered sugar. One cup heavy cream yields two cups whipped cream. To make Chantilly cream = crème Chantilly, beat one cup chilled whipping cream until thick, add two tablespoons powdered sugar plus 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, then continue beating until peaks form.

Substitutes: With chilled beaters and a chilled bowl, whip 12 ounces of very well-chilled evaporated milk and serve immediately. If you wish, add up to 2 tablespoons chilled lemon juice to milk before beating. (This substitute doesn't taste as rich, but is lower in fat and calories.) OR pressurized whipped cream topping (more convenient, but it's more expensive and doesn't taste as good) OR frozen yogurt (lower in fat) OR well-drained vanilla yogurt (lower in fat) OR (as topping for hot chocolate) marshmallows (lower in fat) OR nondairy whipped cream substitute (Check the labels. A popular brand of this is very high in saturated fat.) Links: See

the Recipesource.com posting for Mock Whipped Cream.

whipping cream See light whipping cream.

whole milk See milk.

Cultured Milk Products

buttermilk Notes: Despite its name and creamy consistency, buttermilk is relatively low in fat. It's sometimes tolerated by people with lactose intolerance since some of the lactose is fermented by bacteria. Most of the buttermilk found in supermarkets is cultured buttermilk, made by adding a bacterial culture to low-fat or nonfat milk. More authentic and tasty, though, is churn buttermilk, which is the liquid that remains after milk is churned into butter. Since recipes often call for just small amounts of buttermilk, many cooks use reconstituted powdered buttermilk. Substitutes: Combine one cup of milk (or soymilk) plus one tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar, and allow to stand for ten minutes OR Combine one cup of milk plus two teaspoons cream of tartar, and allow to stand for ten minutes OR Combine two parts plain yogurt plus one part milk OR plain, low-fat yogurt OR sour cream OR molasses (in batters that also call for baking soda) Cooking hints: Churn buttermilk may require longer baking times than ordinary commercial buttermilk.

clabber cream = clabber = clabbered cream Substitutes: créme fraîche (thinner consistency) OR ricotta cheese (especially suitable as a pasta filling) OR buttermilk cheese (as a pasta filling)

crema Notes: Cremas are the Hispanic version of sour cream. This category includes crema Mexicana, which is similar to crème fraîche, crema Centroamericana, which is a bit thicker and sweeter than crema Mexicana, crema media, which is like whipping cream, crema Mexicana agria, which is thicker and more acidic than crema Mexicana and often used for savory dishes, and crema Salvadoreña, which is thick like sour cream. Where to find: Mexican grocery stores Substitutes: crème fraîche (not as sweet or creamy) OR sour cream (more likely to curdle when cooked in a sauce)

crema Centroamericana See crema.

crema media See crema.

crema Mexicana See crema.

crema Mexicana agria See crema.

crema Salvadoreña See crema.

créme fraîche (creme fraiche) Pronunciation: CREM FRESH Notes: This slightly sour thick cream doesn't curdle when it's heated, so it's ideal for making cream sauces. It's also used for appetizers and as a dessert topping. To make your own: Warm one cup heavy cream to about 100°, then add one or two tablespoons of sour cream, cultured buttermilk, or plain yogurt (make sure you buy a brand that contains active

cultures). Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for at least nine hours before refrigerating. Substitutes: crema Mexicana OR equal parts sour cream and heavy cream OR clabber cream (thicker consistency) OR sour cream (This has a lower fat content, and so it's more likely to curdle if boiled with an acidic ingredient.) OR yogurt (This will definitely curdle when boiled.)

jocoque = labin Notes: This is a Mexican product that's halfway between buttermilk and sour cream. Substitutes: salted buttermilk OR sour cream OR yogurt OR crema

kaimaki See kaymak.

kashk See qurut.

kaymak = kaimaki Substitutes: clotted cream OR creme fraiche

kefir Pronunciation: keh-FEER Notes: Kefir is like a thin, drinkable yogurt. It was originally made in Turkey out of camel's milk. It comes plain or flavored. To make your own: Add a tablespoon of plain kefir (with active cultures) to milk and keep it at roughly 110° for several hours, then refrigerate. Substitutes: yogurt (tarter and thicker) OR kumiss

koumis See kumiss.

koumiss See kumiss.

koumyss See kumiss.

kumiss = koumis = koumiss = koumyss = arjan Pronunciation: KOO-miss Notes: Like kefir, kumiss is a beverage made from milk cultured with bacteria. Asian nomads originally made it with the milk of camels or mares, but commercial producers now use cow's milk. Substitutes: kefir

labin See jocoque.

prostokvasha Substitutes: yogurt

quroot See qurut.

qurut = quroot = kashk = yazdie Notes: Reconstituted dry qurut (bottom picture) is an acceptable substitute for fresh (top picture). Where to find it: Middle Eastern markets Substitutes: yogurt (not as salty)

smetana = smitane = smatana = slivki Shopping hints: This is very hard to find in the United States, but some Eastern European markets carry it. Substitutes: sour cream (higher in calories)

sour cream To make your own: See Homemade Sour Cream posted on Kurma.net, or see the recipe for Vegan Sour Cream posted on the Veggie Table. Substitutes for one cup: Blend one cup cottage cheese plus two or three tablespoons milk or buttermilk plus two tablespoons lemon juice OR blend equal parts cottage cheese and plain yogurt OR blend one cup cottage cheese plus one-third of a cup buttermilk plus one tablespoon lemon juice. (Adapted from directions in the Joy of Cooking by Marion Rombauer Becker and Irma Rombauer. See my sources.) OR blend one cup cottage cheese plus two tablespoons lemon juice plus two tablespoons fat-free mayonnaise plus one-fourth cup nonfat buttermilk (adapted from a recipe in the New Laurel's Kitchen Cookbook) OR Combine 7/8 cup buttermilk or yogurt plus three tablespoons butter or margarine (From a Gateway Virginia recipe. See my sources.) OR one cup buttermilk OR one cup well-drained yogurt (if making cheesecake, use whole milk

yogurt) OR one cup sour milk OR let stand for 5 minutes: one cup evaporated milk plus one tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar OR jocoque OR smetana (lower calories)

sour milk Substitutes: buttermilk OR Mix one tablespoon lemon juice or distilled white vinegar with one cup of milk, let stand for 5 minutes.

yogurt = yoghurt Notes: This is milk that's cultured with bacteria to make it thick and tangy. Ready-made yogurts are made from whole milk (with up to 4% butterfat), lowfat milk (with up to 2% butterfat), and skim milk (with up to .5% butterfat). Health buffs prefer brands that contain active cultures, which help keep their intestines populated with friendly bacteria. Many brands are heat-treated to destroy these cultures and increase shelf life. Yogurt often comes with added flavorings and thickeners. "Light" flavored yogurts are made with artificial sweeteners to reduce calories. Lactaid makes a lactose-reduced yogurt, but many people with lactose intolerance can tolerate ordinary yogurt, especially brands that contains active yogurt cultures. Larger markets also carry yogurt made from soy milk and goat's milk, but these don't work well in delicate desserts. Organic yogurts also are available.

To make your own: Add a tablespoon of plain yogurt (with active cultures) to milk and keep it at roughly 110° for several hours, then refrigerate. Where to find it: Dairy case of most markets Substitutes: sour cream (This is higher in fat and calories, but less likely to curdle if boiled with an acidic ingredient.) OR buttermilk (This substitution usually works well in baked goods, dressings, and sauces.) OR blend cottage cheese until smooth (not as tart) OR silky tofu (not as tart; doesn't work well in delicate desserts)

Non-dairy Milks & Creams

almond milk Shopping hints: Look for this in aseptic containers. To make your own: Put 1 cup blanched almonds into a blender and grind into a fine meal. Add 3 tablespoons honey or maple syrup and 1 teaspoon vanilla, then gradually add 2 cups water while blender is running. Strain out and discard almond pulp. See also the recipe for Almond Milk posted on www.vegweb.com. Substitutes: rice milk Cooking notes: Shake well before using!

coconut butter To make your own: Toast grated coconut over low heat in a frying pan until lightly browned, then whirl it (while still hot) in a blender until it has the consistency of a smooth paste.

coconut cream (Don't confuse this with cream of coconut) Where to find: Asian markets To make your own: Squeeze liquid from freshly grated coconut through a damp cloth, let cream rise to the top OR let canned (thick, not artificially emulsified) coconut milk stand and separate, use thicker cream at top Substitutes: coconut milk OR light coconut milk OR 1 C cream + ¼ teaspoon coconut extract OR cream

coconut milk Notes: This is available in liquid form (in cans or aseptic containers), frozen, and as a powder. Don't confuse coconut milk with coconut water, which is the liquid found in the center of a fresh coconut, or with the sweetened cream of coconut powder used in mixed drinks. Varieties: Light (or "lite") coconut milk has less fat and about a quarter of the calories of the regular version, but doesn't taste nearly as rich. You can reduce the fat (and calories) in a can of regular coconut milk by letting it settle, and then skimming and discarding some of the thick coconut cream off the top. Lighten what's left even more by diluting it with water or chicken broth. Where to find it: Asian foods section of many supermarkets

To make your own: Combine equal parts boiling water and chopped coconut, allow to sit for one hour, then strain through cheesecloth or a kitchen towel. Discard

coconut pulp. Substitutes: coconut cream (richer-tasting, but higher in highly saturated coconut oil) OR one cup milk plus ¼ teaspoon coconut extract (This substitution works fairly well in heavily seasoned Southeast Asian dishes and is much lower in fat.) OR Mix in a blender at high speed: One cup chopped coconut plus one cup hot water or milk OR Bring to a boil one cup dried coconut plus one cup water, cool, mix in a blender at high speed, then strain to desired consistency OR Combine one part powdered coconut cream plus four parts hot milk OR Combine one part powdered coconut cream plus four parts hot water.

coconut water = coconut juice To make your own: Drain liquid from the center of a whole fresh coconut.

cream of coconut Notes: Don't confuse this with coconut cream, which is used in Asian dishes. Cream of coconut is thick and very sweet, and commonly used in mixed drinks. Where to find it: liquor stores, available in liquid and powdered forms. Substitutes: sweetened condensed milk with coconut extract to taste

horchata Notes: This is a Spanish beverage made with rice, almonds, or chufa. Horchatas sold in markets are often flavored with chocolate, cinnamon, or fruit. Varieties: Hispanic stores often carry almond horchata = horchata de almendra, chufa horchata = horchata de chufa, the traditional Spanish version, and rice horchata = horchata de arroz. To make your own: Soak one cup uncooked rice in 6 cups hot water for at least 2 hours, then simmer for 20 minutes. Puree in a blender, then strain. Add one teaspoon vanilla and 1/2 cup sugar. See also this recipe for horchata.

light coconut milk = lite coconut milk Substitutes: equal parts coconut milk and water OR regular coconut milk (higher in highly saturated coconut oil)

nondairy topping Notes: Cool Whip and Dream Whip are popular brands. Some of these products may include casein.

oat milk Shopping notes: This comes in aseptic containers. A fortified version is available that supplies many of the nutrients normally found in cow's milk. Substitutes: cow's milk (less expensive and more nutritious, but its production involves the exploitation of animals) OR goat's milk (less expensive, more nutritious, exploits animals) OR soy milk (best used in baked goods; doesn't work well in many savory dishes) OR rice milk (sweeter than oat milk, best used in desserts) OR almond milk (also sweeter; use it only in desserts) Cooking notes: Shake well before using! Links: Here's a recipe for oat milk.

rice milk Shopping hints: Look for this in aseptic containers. Some varieties are gluten-free; others are not. A common brand is Rice Dream. To make your own: See the recipe for Rice Milk posted on www.vegweb.com. Substitutes: almond milk (Like rice milk, this works well in most desserts.) OR horchata OR cow's milk (less expensive and more nutritious, but its production involves the exploitation of animals) OR goat's milk (less expensive, more nutritious, exploits animals) OR oat milk (more versatile that rice milk; works well in both sweet and savory dishes) OR soy milk (best used in baked goods; doesn't work well in many savory dishes) Cooking notes: Shake well before using!

soy milk = soymilk = soy beverage = soya milk = soya beverage Notes: Made from soybeans, soy milk is sweeter and darker than dairy milk, and it has a distinctive beanlike flavor. It comes refrigerated, or in aseptic containers (either full strength or concentrated), or in powdered form, with varying percentages of fat. A fortified version is available that supplies many of the nutrients normally found in cow's milk. Flavored versions are best for drinking, unflavored for cooking. Shake well before using. To make your own: Here's a recipe for soy milk. Substitutes: cow's milk (less expensive and more nutritious, but its production involves the exploitation of animals) OR goat's milk (less expensive, more nutritious, exploits animals) OR oat milk (more versatile that soy milk; works well in both sweet and savory dishes) OR rice milk (sweeter than soy milk, best used in desserts) OR almond milk (also sweeter; use it only in desserts)

Cheese

Our early ancestors probably discovered cheese when they first used animal stomachs to carry milk. An enzyme in the stomachs called rennet would have caused the milk to curdle and separate into cheese and a watery liquid called whey.

People have been tinkering with that basic recipe ever since then, and there are now hundreds of different kinds of cheeses. Cheese-makers impart different flavors and textures into their cheeses by using different milks, adding various bacteria and molds, aging for different lengths of time, and so forth.

The pâte, or inner portion, of a cheese is normally encased in a rind. Natural rinds can be covered or mottled with mold, and they're often edible, though many people find them bitter and salty. Waxy rinds shouldn't be eaten.

Tips:

Always bring a table cheese to room temperature before serving it--the flavor is much better.

Younger cheeses tend to be mild, soft, and moist. As cheeses age, they become more pungent, hard, and crumbly.

Many cheeses become rubbery when cooked too long or at too high a temperature. If you plan to cook with a cheese, select a heat-tolerant one like mozzarella or Emmental.

It's usually best to keep cheese in its original packaging. If the cheese has been cut, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap to hold in the moisture. If it hasn't been cut, wrap it first with waxed paper and then with plastic wrap--this allows the cheese to breathe.

Store cheese near the bottom of the refrigerator, where temperature fluctuations are minimal.

Harder cheeses have a longer shelf life than soft, moist ones. Don't freeze cheese--it ruins the flavor. Just as you'd ask your fishmonger "What's fresh today?" ask your

cheesemonger "What's ripe today?" Under-ripe cheeses haven't fully developed their flavor, while overripe cheeses

become acidic and unpleasantly pungent. Some overripe cheeses develop a strong ammonia smell.

If a small amount of mold forms on the surface of the cheese, cut it off along with a half an inch of cheese on all sides of it. If there's a lot of mold, throw the cheese out.

Many lactose-intolerant people find that they can tolerate low-lactose cheeses like cream cheese, cottage cheese, Mozzarella, and Provolone.

Don't serve cheese with citrus or tropical fruits. Cheese is usually made with pasteurized milk, which has been heated to

remove harmful bacteria. Unfortunately, pasteurization also destroys friendly bacteria and enzymes, though some of these can be added back artificially once the milk is pasteurized. Some producers insist on making cheese with raw (unpasteurized) milk, believing that this gives their cheese richer microflora and better flavor and textures.

Substitutes: cheese alternatives OR nutritional yeast OR tofu OR white miso Complements: baguette OR crackers OR wine OR olives OR fruits OR nuts

Varieties

Classified by consistency:

soft cheese

semi-soft cheese

semi-firm cheese = semi-hard cheese

firm cheese = hard cheese = grating cheese

Classified by production method:

blue cheese

fresh cheese = unripened cheese

pressed cheese Notes: These are cheeses which are pressed to remove moisture during their production, and then soaked in a salt bath and aged. This broad category includes most semi-firm and firm cheeses.

During the production of some pressed cheeses, the curds are cooked to expel even more moisture. These firmer cheeses usually have hard rinds, which are sometimes coated with wax. Cooked pressed cheeses include Gruyère, Emmental, Gouda, and Parmesan.

Uncooked pressed cheeses aren't as firm. They're often sweet and fruity when young, and they develop a more earthy and grassy flavor as they age. Examples include Cantal, Tommes de Savoie, and Morbier.

soft-ripened cheese = bloomy rind cheese = soft paste cheese = surface-ripened with mold cheese = soft rind cheese The rinds of these cheeses are exposed to mold, which moves into the pâte as they ripen. As they do, they become softer and maybe even slightly runny.

It's important to eat soft-ripened cheeses when they're perfectly ripe--if under-ripe, they're pasty and bland, if overripe, they become runny and ammoniated.

To fully appreciate their subtle and complex flavors, be sure to bring them to room temperature before serving them.

These are great table cheeses, and they're often served with bread, crackers, or fruit. They're not usually cooked. Most are covered with a felt-like white mold which is edible, but not to everyone's taste. This category includes Brie, Camembert, Toma, Coulommiers, Chaource, and Brillat-Savarin. See also: soft cheese

washed-rind cheese = washed rind cheese = monastery cheese = stinky cheese As they ripen, these cheeses are washed with a liquid. The moisture encourages the growth of bacteria, giving the cheese a strong odor and flavor. Many of these cheeses are soft or semi-soft and have sticky, reddish-orange rinds, which most people consider too pungent to eat. It takes a strong wine like a Burgundy or Pinot Gris to stand up to most of the cheeses in this category. Beer works, too.

This category includes Limburger, Muenster, Maroilles, Langres, Epoisses, Tallegio, Abondance, Urgelia, Epoisses, Pont l'Evêque, Mahon, Reblochon, Port Salut, and Livarot.

Classified by source of milk:

cow's milk cheese Cow's milk cheeses are creamier than goat or sheep's milk cheeses.

sheep's milk cheese = ewe's milk cheese Sheep's milk is higher in fat than cow's milk, so these cheeses are rich and creamy. Like goat cheeses, they're also a bit tangy. Examples include Pecorino Romano (pecora is the Italian word for sheep), Roquefort, Manchego, Idiazábal, and Manouri.

goat cheese = goat's milk cheese Notes: Goat's milk lends cheese a tangy, earthy, and sometimes barnyard flavor. Varieties include chèvre, Montrachet, Mizithra, Chaubier, Humboldt Fog, Chabichou, Banon, and Bucheron.

Other classifications:

cheese substitutes

double-crème cheese = double-cream cheese These soft and semi-soft cheeses contain 60-74% butterfat, making them rich and creamy. They're not quite as decadent as tripe-crème cheeses, which have at least 75% butterfat.

processed cheese = process cheese

reduced-fat cheese = low-fat cheese Notes: These can be gummy and insipid, and they usually have a shorter shelf life than their fattier counterparts. Reduced-fat cheeses become rubbery if they're allowed to dry out during cooking, so keep the cheese moist by adding extra liquid or by sealing in the dish's moisture with a pot lid or aluminum foil.

triple-crème cheese = triple-cream cheese Notes: These cheeses are the gelatos of the cheese word--incredibly creamy and decadent, thanks to a high butterfat content that comes from tripling the cream. They have roughly twice the fat as a typical Brie or Camembert, but they're much more buttery and rich. Some triple-crèmes are fresh, like mascarpone. Others are soft-ripened, like Boursault, Castello Blue, Brillat Savarin, and Explorateur.

vegetarian cheese When making cheese, milk is curdled with the help of rennet, an enzyme that occurs naturally in the stomach of animals. Many vegetarians object to eating cheese made with natural rennet, since its production involves the slaughter of animals. Fortunately, a lot of fine cheese is now made with vegetable rennet, which

is derived from fungi, bacteria, or plants. Unfortunately, the type of rennet used isn't always marked on the cheese label. Some stores help out by adding their own labels.

Fresh Cheeses

fresh cheese = unripened cheese = curd cheeses = curd-style cheeses

Most fresh cheese is made by curdling milk with an enzyme, and then draining off the whey. The curds that remain are molded into cheese. Fresh cheeses tend to be bland, so they're often used as vehicles for other flavorings. Some, like cream cheese, are used to make dips or cheesecakes. Others, like ricotta cheese, are used as fillings for dumplings, pasta, crepes, or pastries. Still others, like cottage cheese, can be a meal all by themselves once they're perked up with herbs, fruit, or other flavorings.

Fresh cheeses have a higher moisture content and are usually lower in fat and sodium than other cheeses. Most are highly perishable, so check the expiration date when you buy them and keep them tightly wrapped or covered in the refrigerator. Moist fresh cheeses like cottage cheese and ricotta should be eaten within a week of purchase; firmer cheeses like cream cheese and farmer's cheese can usually be stored for about two weeks. Don't eat fresh cheese if mold appears on it.

Tips:

Fresh cheese work best in cold dishes. Fresh cheeses tend to break when added to hot

sauces, so add them at the last minute. Lactose-intolerant people may prefer aged cheese

over fresh, since aged cheese contains less lactose.

Varieties:

Alouette Pronunciation: ah-loo-WET Notes: This is one of several spreadable cheeses that combine cream cheese with various flavorings, like herbs, garlic, pesto, and sun-dried tomatoes. You can set them out with crackers for guests, but your gourmet friends probably won't indulge. Substitutes: Boursin (considered better) OR Rondelé

Boursin [boor-SAN] This creamy cheese from France is usually flavored with herbs, garlic or coarse ground pepper. It's mild and delicate, and goes well with fresh bread and dry white wine. Boursin is considered better than some other flavored spreadable cheeses, like Alouette or Rondelé, but none of these cheeses are well regarded by gourmets. Store Boursin in the refrigerator but bring it to room temperature before serving. Eat it within a few days of purchase.

Substitutes: RONDELÉ (a cheaper domestic imitation) OR ALOUETTE (also a cheaper domestic imitation) OR Mix together in a food processor using a steel blade: 8 ounces of CREAM CHEESE, 4 tablespoons BUTTER, 1 teaspoon minced PARSLEY, 1 teaspoon ITALIAN

SEASONING, 1/2 teaspoon minced GARLIC, 1/4 teaspoon GROUND PEPPER. Chill for several hours before serving. OR CHÈVRE FRAIS

buttermilk cheese Notes: You won't find this tangy, creamy cheese in supermarkets, but it's easy to make at home. To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth or a kitchen towel. Pour buttermilk into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to a cheeselike consistency. Substitutes: ricotta cheese (especially as a pasta filling) OR cream cheese (especially in cheesecakes)

Caprini Pronunciation: cuh-PREE-nee Notes: This is an excellent Italian fresh cheese that's hard to find in the U.S. Substitutes:

chaka See yogurt cheese.

chevre frais See goat cheese (fresh).

cottage cheese = smierkase Notes: This simple, mild cheese was traditionally produced in Europe's "cottages" from the milk left over from butter making. It's versatile, easy to digest, and a good source of protein. It's sold with either large or small curds, and with fruit or chives sometimes added. Use it within a few days after purchasing and discard if mold appears. It's best served chilled. To make your own: To make 2 cups (one pound), heat a gallon of skim milk to 80ºF (27ºC) using a double boiler (don't use aluminum or cast iron). Dissolve 1/4 tablet of rennet in a few tablespoons of cold water, then stir it into the milk using a whisk for a few minutes. Turn off the heat, cover, and let the mixture sit for about five hours at room temperature. Use a knife to cut the curds into half-inch cubes, then let them sit for about 15 minutes more.

Put the double boiler on the stove and gradually bring the temperature of the cheese to 100ºF (38ºC) (it should take about 30 minutes to reach that temperature), and then up to 115ºF (46ºC) (this should take another 15 minutes). Hold it at this temperature for another 30 minutes. Be sure to raise the temperature gradually, or the curds will be hard and rubbery. Stir the mixture while it cooks, more if want small curds, less if you want big curds. Pour the mixture into a cheesecloth-lined colander and drain off the whey for a few minutes. Fill a sink with ice cold water. Pulling together the edges of the cheesecloth, dunk the curds in the water for a few minutes, then put the cheesecloth-wrapped curds back in the colander to drain. (Don't rinse the curds as long if you want your cottage cheese to have a sharper flavor.) If you like, stir in a teaspoon salt and 1/3 cup of cream, milk, or sour cream. Substitutes: ricotta (higher in fat) OR pot cheese (drier) OR fromage blanc (lower in fat) OR buttermilk cheese OR yogurt cheese OR tofu (firm silken)

cream cheese = (in Europe) white cheese = queso crema Equivalents: 2 cups cream cheese = 1 pound Notes: An American favorite, cream cheese is a terrific spread for bagels and nut breads and a key ingredient in cheesecake and other desserts. It comes in low-fat and nonfat versions; these work well as spreads but compromise the flavor and texture of cheesecakes. Cream cheese made without stabilizers is also disappointing in cheesecakes, though it makes for a more acidic and flavorful spread. Store in the refrigerator. Unopened foil-wrapped commercial cream cheese is good for about a month after the "Best when used by" date on the carton. Once opened, you should use it within 10 days. Throw it out if mold appears. Substitutes: Neufchâtel (lower in fat and moister than regular cream cheese) OR equal parts ricotta and yogurt OR soy cream cheese OR tofu (use 3/4 cup tofu + 1/4 cup margarine + 1 tablespoon lemon juice to replace one cup cream cheese). OR yogurt cheese (usually lower in fat than cream cheese) OR buttermilk cheese (usually lower in fat than cream cheese) OR tofu cream cheese To make your own: Combine 2 cups milk and 2 cups whipping cream and heat the mixture in a double boiler (not aluminum or cast iron) until it's about 90ºF (32ºC). Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons cultured buttermilk, cover, and let rest in a warm place for one or two days until it has the consistency of yogurt. Pour the mixture through a colander lined with butter muslin (or several layers of cheesecloth) and drain for several minutes. Replace

the muslin or cheesecloth and nest the colander in a deep bowl, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, and put the bowl into the refrigerator and let it continue to drain for a day or so until the cream cheese has the desired consistency. Add salt to taste.

farm cheese See farmer cheese.

farmer cheese = farmer's cheese = farm cheese = pressed cheese = hoop cheese = baker's cheese Notes: This mildly acidic fresh cheese is made by pressing much of the moisture out of cottage cheese. Some varieties resemble a very dry, crumbly cottage cheese, while others have can be sliced. It's primarily used for cooking. To make your own: Wrap cottage cheese in cheesecloth and place in a colander or strainer nested inside a bowl. Place in the refrigerator until much of the liquid has drained into the bowl. Substitutes: queso fresco OR queso blanco OR jack OR Muenster

fresh chevre See goat cheese (fresh).

fresh goat cheese See goat cheese (fresh).

fresh Hispanic cheese = fresh Hispanic-style cheese = fresh Mexican cheese

Hispanic cooks like their cheese bland and salty, the better to complement their spicy sauces. They also want cheese to hold its shape when heated. Monterey jack, the standard substitute for Hispanic cheeses, tends to ooze out of chiles rellenos and enchiladas when baked. Authentic recipes call for panela or queso blanco, which soften but don't melt when heated.

Hispanic fresh cheeses often keep better than other fresh

cheeses--some can be stored for months in the refrigerator.

Varieties:

Best for topping casseroles or bean dishes: queso fresco

Best for fried cheese recipes: queso para freir, queso blanco, queso panela

Best for filling casserole dishes like enchiladas: queso panela, queso blanco

Best for salads: queso panela

Best for tacos and burritos: queso panela

Best for refried beans: queso panela

fromage blanc Pronunciation: froh-MAHZH BLAHN Notes: This usually has the consistency of thick yogurt. It's expensive and hard to find, but very tasty and relatively low in fat. It makes a great topping for desserts. Substitutes: quark (very similar) OR yogurt cheese OR buttermilk cheese OR blend equal parts cottage cheese and yogurt until smooth OR cream cheese whipped with cream

fromage de chèvre frais See goat cheese (fresh).

fromage frais Pronunciation: froh-MAHZH FRAY Notes: This is the French term for "fresh cheese." This category includes fromage blanc, Petit-Suisse, and chevre frais.

gervais Pronunciation: zher-VAY Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: cream cheese

goat cheese (fresh) =chevre frais = chèvre frais = fromage de chèvre frais Pronunciation: SHEHV-ruh FRAY Notes: Don't confuse this mild fresh cheese with aged goat cheese, which is less common and more flavorful. Fresh goat cheese is like fromage blanc, only made with goat's milk. There are several varieties, including Montrachet and cabecou, which is soaked in brandy. Goat cheese is usually vacuum-packed, though many connoisseurs seek out the more perishable but tastier paper-wrapped cheeses at specialty shops. Substitutes: fromage blanc OR bucheron Complements: white wine

hoop cheese Substitutes: pot cheese

Indian curd cheese See paneer cheese.

kefir cheese Pronunciation: keh-FEER To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth or a kitchen towel. Pour unflavored kefir into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to half its volume. Substitutes: Neufchâtel OR yogurt cheese OR cream cheese

labanah See yogurt cheese.

labne See yogurt cheese.

labneh See yogurt cheese.

lebna See yogurt cheese.

mascarpone = mascherpone = Italian cream cheese Pronunciation: mas-car-POH-nay Notes: A key ingredient in tiramisu and zabaglione, mascarpone is velvety soft, slightly acidic, and expensive. Although Italian in origin, the name is said to come from the Spanish mas que bueno, "better than good." It's usually sold in tubs. Use it soon after you purchase it since it's highly perishable. Substitutes: Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/4 cup whipping cream. OR Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/4 cup butter and 1/4 cup cream OR Blend 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 1/8 cup whipping cream and 1/8 cup sour cream. OR Whip ricotta cheese in a blender until smooth (lower in fat)

Mizithra cheese (soft) = myzithra Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Mizithra, which is a hard grating cheese. Substitutes: cottage cheese

Neufchatel = Neufchâtel Pronunciation: new-shuh-TELL OR NEW-shuh-tell Notes: Neufchâtel is very similar in taste and appearance to cream cheese, but it's made from milk instead of cream so it contains less fat and more moisture. Cheesecakes made with it cook more quickly and are more prone to cracking. Use it within a few days after purchasing, and throw it out if mold appears. For best results, serve chilled. Substitutes: cream cheese (typically higher in fat) OR Boursin

paneer cheese = panir cheese = Indian curd cheese Notes: Indians like to serve this bland fresh cheese with spinach or peas. Use within a few days. Substitutes: cubes of firm tofu OR feta cheese (much saltier) To make your own: Bring one gallon of whole milk to a boil, stirring regularly. (It's best to use a double boiler to avoid scalding the milk. Don't use an aluminum or cast iron pan.) Remove from heat, then gradually add lemon or lime juice until the mixture curdles (about 3-4 tablespoons). Cover, and let the mixture sit for a few minutes. Pour the mixture into a cheesecloth-lined colander and allow the curds to drain. Rinse the curds with water and allow to drain some more, then fold the cloth around the cheese and use a weighted plate to press more moisture out of it for a few hours or until it becomes firm.

panir cheese See paneer cheese.

petit gervais

Petit-Suisse = Petit Suisse Pronunciation: puh-TEE SWEES Notes: You can buy small six-packs of this rich fresh cheese all over France, but they're hard to find in the U.S. Gervais is a popular brand. Substitutes: fromage blanc OR quark OR cream cheese

Philadelphia See cream cheese.

pressed cheese See farmer cheese.

quark = quark-curd = topfen = quarg = curd-cheese Notes: This versatile fresh cheese resembles soft cream cheese. Germans (who call is quark) and Austrians (who call it topfen) use it to make everything from cheesecake to gravy. To make your own: Combine one quart whole milk with 1/2 cup buttermilk in a clean container, cover, and let the mixture stand at room temperature for two days. Gently cook the mixture for about 30 minutes. It's

done when the curd has thickened slightly and begun to separate from the whey. Let it cool and pour it into a colander lined with several folds of cheesecloth. Put the colander into a larger container, wrap with plastic, and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until the quark is reduced to the consistency of yogurt. Makes about 1 cup. Substitutes: fromage frais (very similar) OR yogurt cheese (more acidic) OR two parts ricotta cheese and one part sour cream OR strained cottage cheese OR mascarpone

queso blanco Notes: This popular Hispanic fresh cheese is often added to casserole or bean dishes, since it holds its shape well when when heated. It's a good cheese for frying or grilling, though queso para freir is a better choice if you can find it. Substitutes: queso para freir OR queso panela OR farmer cheese OR Monterey jack

queso de metate See queso fresco.

queso fresco = queso de metate Notes: Mexican cooks like to crumble this mild grainy cheese onto soups, salads, casseroles, and bean dishes. It softens but doesn't melt when heated. Where to find: Mexican grocery stores Substitutes: Mix equal parts cottage cheese and feta cheese OR farmer cheese OR cotija cheese OR feta cheese (similar texture but saltier) OR queso anejo OR mild goat cheese OR paneer OR ricotta cheese OR jack cheese

queso para freir Notes: This fresh Hispanic cheese is salty and crumbly. It's terrific for making the Caribbean specialty queso frito (fried cheese) since it holds its shape when when heated. Substitutes: queso blanco (Not as salty but also holds its shape well when heated) OR mozzarella (also fries well) OR queso panela (also fries well)

queso panela = panela = queso de canasta Notes: This popular Mexican cheese is mild and crumbly, and it doesn't lose its shape when heated. It's often mixed into bean dishes or casserole fillings or crumbled over salads and tacos. It can be fried, though queso para freir or queso blanco hold their shapes better. Queso panela is sometimes served with tropical fruit as a snack or appetizer. Substitutes: queso blanco OR high moisture mozzarella OR queso para freir OR feta OR ricotta OR drained cottage cheese OR Requeson cheese

Requeson cheese = Requesón Notes: This fresh Hispanic cheese resembles ricotta cheese, and is used to make dips and desserts. Substitutes: ricotta cheese OR Mix equal parts ricotta and cottage cheese, then place in a cheesecloth-lined colander until some of the liquid has drained off.

ricotta cheese Pronunciation: rih-KAH-tuh Notes: This Italian fresh cheese is made from the watery whey that's drained off in the production of mozzarella, provolone, and other cheeses. Ricotta cheese is sweeter and smoother than cottage cheese, and it's much richer in calcium. You can eat it straight from the tub with fresh fruit, but it's more commonly used as an ingredient in pasta dishes and desserts. Italian ricotta cheeses are made exclusively with whey, while American versions add milk as a stretcher. Low-fat versions are available, and they work quite well in cheesecakes. Use the cheese within a few days after purchasing, and throw it out if mold appears or if it tastes too acidic. To make your own: (Note: This recipe won't work with whey from milk that has been curdled with an acid.) Heat whey until it reaches 200ºF (93ºC), stir in a small amount of

vinegar, then pour the whey into a colander lined with butter muslin or a cotton pillowcase. After it's drained to the desired consistency, salt to taste. Substitutes: queso fresco OR goat cheese (fresh) OR cottage cheese (lower in fat) OR pot cheese (drier) OR Requeson cheese OR clabber cream (especially as a pasta filling) OR buttermilk cheese (especially as a pasta filling) OR fromage blanc (lower in fat) OR tofu (firm silken tofu is best; mix with Italian herbs and olive oil if using in pasta dishes)

robiola Piemonte Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah pia-MAWN-tay Notes: This creamy fresh cheese from the Piedmond region of Italy is often used for cooking, and it's great on pizza. It's also served as an antipasto along with olive oil and/or fresh herbs. Piedmont robiolas include Langhe Robiola = Robiola delle Langhe, Robiola di Roccaverano, Robiola di Murazzano, and Robiolina di Bosconero. These cheeses are hard to find in the U.S. Don't confuse this with robiola Lombardia, a soft cheese. Substitutes: equal parts ricotta and mascarpone OR ricotta OR mascarpone OR chevre OR Caprini

Rondelé = Rondele Notes: This flavored cream cheese is an inexpensive domestic version of Boursin. Substitutes: Boursin

whey cheeses Most cheese is made from curdled milk that has been drained of the watery whey. Not wanting to waste the nutrient-rich whey, our ancestors discovered that they could extract more cheese from it by cooking it until the remaining proteins coagulated. Examples of modern-day whey cheeses include ricotta, Gjetost, Manouri, Mizithra, and Requeson.

white cheese See cream cheese.

yogurt cheese = chaka = labneh = lebna = labne = labanah Notes: This is a soft, tangy, and nutritious cream cheese substitute. To make your own: Line a colander with several folds of cheesecloth, a kitchen towel, or commercial yogurt strainer. Pour stabilizer-free yogurt into the cloth, then put the colander into a larger container, wrap with plastic, and let it drain overnight in the refrigerator until it's reduced to half its volume. If you like, add herbs or other flavorings. Substitutes: cream cheese (thicker consistency, not as tart, higher in calories) OR buttermilk cheese

Soft Cheeses

soft cheese = soft paste cheese Cheeses in this category are often spread on bread or crackers to be served as snacks. They're usually not used for cooking. Most soft cheeses should be used within a few days of purchase--they spoil faster than firmer cheeses.

Varieties:

Boursault Pronunciation: boor-SOH Notes: This is a soft-ripened, triple crème French cheese that very rich and mild. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brillat-Savarin OR Caprice des Dieux OR St. Andre OR Excelsior OR Brie OR Camembert

Brie Pronunciation: BREE Notes: This French cheese is rich, mild, and creamy, and it's soft enough to spread easily on crackers or bread. As with Camembert cheese, the Brie name isn't protected so there are lots of mediocre knock-offs on the market. Look for French Bries--they're much better than their American counterparts. The rind is edible. For best flavor, wait until it's perfectly ripe and warmed to room temperature before serving it. Substitutes: Camembert OR Explorateur OR Paglietta OR Carre de l'Est OR Coulommiers OR Reblochon

Brillat Savarin cheese Pronunciation: bree-YAH sah-vah-RAHN Notes: This soft triple crème French cheese is rich, buttery, and mild, though some find it a bit sour and salty. Substitutes: Boursault OR Caprice des Dieux OR St. Andre OR Excelsior

Brinza cheese = Brynza cheese = Bryndza cheese Pronunciation: BRIN-zuh Notes: Look for this salty sheep's milk cheese in Eastern European markets. It's spreadable when young, but becomes crumbly as it ages. Like Feta, it's good in salads or melted on pizza. Substitutes: feta (saltier)

bryndza See brinza.

brynza See brinza.

Camembert Pronunciation: CAH-muhn-BARE Notes: This popular soft-ripened cheese is buttery rich and wonderful to spread on hot French bread. The name's not protected, so there are lots of Camemberts of varying quality on the market. Try to get a French raw milk Camembert--our pasteurized domestic versions are bland in comparison. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brie OR Explorateur OR Paglietta

Caprice des Dieux Pronunciation: cah-PREES-day-DYOO Notes: This oval French cheese resembles Camembert and Brie. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie OR Brillat-Savarin OR St. Andre OR Boursault

Carré de l'est = Carre de l'Est Pronunciation: kar-RAY-duh-LEST Notes: This is a square washed rind, moderately stinky cheese from France. Substitutes: Epoisses OR Pont-l'Evêque OR Maroilles OR Brie OR Camembert

Chaource cheese Pronunciation: shah-OORSE Notes: This French cheese is similar to Brie and Camembert, but creamier and more acidic. It's good with champagne. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie

Coulommiers Pronunciation: koo-lum-YAY Notes: This soft-ripened French cheese resembles Brie and Camembert. Substitutes: Brie OR Camembert OR Chaource

Crema Danica = Crema Dania Pronunciation: CREHM-uh DAHN-ik-uh Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie

Crescenza See Stracchino.

Epoisses = Epoisses de Bourgogne Pronunciation: ay-PWAHZ Notes: This well-regarded French cheese is a member of the washed-rind or "stinky" family of cheeses, but it's a bit more subtle than Limburger, Livarot, or other siblings. It's a little runny when ripe. The rind is edible--taste it to see if you like it. Substitutes: Pont-l'Evêque OR Maroilles OR Muenster

Excelsior Substitutes: Boursault OR Brillat-Savarin

Explorateur = l'Explorateur Pronunciation: ex-plor-ah-TUR Notes: This soft, creamy French cheese is rich and complex. Substitutes: Brie OR Camembert

feta Pronunciation: FEH-tuh Notes: This salty, crumbly cheese is common in Greek cuisine. It's often stored in brine; if so, you might want to rinse it before using to remove some of the saltiness. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Brinza (similar but hard to find) OR Haloumi OR cotija OR ricotta salata (better than feta) OR aged chevre

hand = handkäse = handkase = harzer kase = harzer käse Notes: This German washed rind cheese is pungent and stinky. It's good with beer, but it would over-power most wines. Substitutes: Mainz OR Harz OR Limburger

Harz Substitutes: Mainz OR Hand OR Limburger OR Maroilles OR Livarot OR Brick (milder) OR Liederkranz (milder) Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Humboldt fog cheese Notes: This excellent soft-ripened goat cheese has a layer of vegetable ash running down the middle. It's an excellent table cheese. The rind is edible, and fairly good. Substitutes: Morbier OR Brie

kochkäse = kochkase Notes: This German cheese is easy to spread. It's great on crackers and rye bread.

Liederkranz Pronunciation: LEE-der-krantz Notes: This cheese was invented by German-American Emil Frey, who wanted to make a domestic version of Limburger cheese. Borden acquired the brand after Frey died, and later sold the brand to a New Zealand outfit. It's hard, and perhaps impossible, to find in the United States. Substitutes: Schloss (very similar) OR Brick

OR Limburger (sharper) OR Maroilles OR Livarot OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Livarot Pronunciation: LEE-vah-roh Notes: This excellent French cheese is in the washed-rind or "stinky" family. Though pungent, it's not as overpowering as Limburger. The rind is edible, but it's not for faint-hearted. Substitutes: Maroilles OR Limburger OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand OR Brick (milder) OR Liederkranz (milder)

Mainz Substitutes: Harz OR Hand OR Limburger OR Brick (milder) OR Schloss (milder) Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Manouri cheese Notes: This Greek sheep's and goat's milk cheese is similar to feta, only creamier and less salty. Substitutes: feta OR ricotta salata

Maroilles Pronunciation: mahr-WAHL Notes: This is a stinky washed-rind cheese from France that smells worse than it tastes. You probably don't want to eat the pungent rind. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Livarot OR Pont-l'Evêque OR Reblochon OR Harz OR Mainz OR Hand OR Limburger

Paglietta Notes: This soft Italian cheese resembles Brie and Camembert. Use it within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Camembert OR Brie

Pont-l'Evêque = Pont l'Eveque Pronunciation: POHN-luh-VEK Notes: This ancient and well-regarded French cheese isn't as stinky as other washed rind cheeses. It's best not to eat the rind. Substitutes: Reblochon OR Camembert (not as stinky) OR Maroilles (stinkier)

Reblochon cheese Pronunciation: reh-bloh-SHOHN Notes: This rich and creamy French cheese is quite mild for a washed rind cheese, but it's complex enough to be popular with gourmets. The rind is edible, but too pungent for many people. Substitutes: Pont-l'Evêque OR Brie OR Beaumont OR Esrom OR Beaufort OR tomme (nuttier taste) OR raclette OR Port Salut OR fontina

ricotta salata Pronunciation: rih-COH-tah sah-LAH-tah Notes: This mild sheep's milk cheese is used more for cooking than snacking. It's great in salads or in pasta dishes. Look for it in Italian markets. Substitutes: feta (more pungent) OR Manouri

robiola Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah Notes: Two distinctly different cheeses go by the name robiola: Robiola Piemonte is a fresh cheese that's often used on pizza, while robiola Lombardia is an aged, tan-colored soft cheese used for snacking.

robiola Lombardia cheese = robiola cheese (aged) Pronunciation: roh-bee-OH-lah Notes: There are different kinds of robiola cheeses; those made in the Lombardy region are washed-rind soft cheeses that are rich and mildly pungent. Don't confuse this with robiola Piemonte, a fresh robiola cheese from the Piedmont region that's often used to top pizzas or melt into fondues. Lombardy robiolas include Robiola Valsassina = Robiola della Valsassina and Substitutes: taleggio OR Reblochon

Schloss = Schlosskäse = Schlosskase = castle cheese Notes: This Austrian cheese is a marvelous choice for people who like strong "stinky" cheeses. It's good with beer, but it would overpower most wines. Substitutes: Limburger OR Brie (not as stinky)

Saint André cheese = St. Andre cheese Substitutes: Boursault OR Brillat-Savarin OR Caprice des Dieux Notes: Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Saint Marcellin cheese = St. Marcellin cheese Notes: A young version of this French cheese is so runny it's sold in small pots; a more aged version is wrapped in leaves. Both are rich and exquisite on French bread. Substitutes: Banon OR

Stracchino = Crescenza = Stracchino di Crescenza Pronunciation: strah-KEE-noh Notes: This soft Italian cheese is mild and spreadable. It's great on pizza. Use within a few days after purchasing and, for best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Taleggio (unripened version of Stracchino)

Teleme Pronunciation: TELL-uh-may Notes: This is a California cheese with a mild, nutty flavor. The rind is edible. Substitutes: Camembert OR jack

Semi-Firm Cheeses

semi-firm cheese = semi-hard cheese Most semi-firm cheeses are pressed during production to remove moisture. As they age, they become even firmer and more pungent and crumbly.

Most of these cheeses are great for snacks and sandwiches, and many can be cooked without becoming rubbery or oily.

Semi-firm cheese tend to have a longer shelf life than softer cheeses. Many can last about 1-2 months in the refrigerator if the package isn't opened, 3-4 weeks if opened, and 2 weeks if sliced.

Substitutes: cheese substitutes

Varieties:

Abondance = Tomme d'Abondance Pronunciation: ah-bone-DAHNS Notes: This French raw milk cheese has a subtle, nutty flavor. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyere OR Fontina OR Appenzell

Appenzell = Appenzeller Notes: This is a creamy and pleasantly stinky cheese. Pronunciation: AP-en-zel Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR raclette OR Fontina

Asiago (fresh) Pronunciation: ah-zee-AH-go Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Asiago, which is a firm grating cheese. Substitutes: Provolone OR other semi-firm cheese

Beaufort Pronunciation: BOH-furt Notes: This semi-firm cheese is slightly sweet and has a nice texture. It's a great melting cheese, so it's often used in fondues. Substitutes: Emmenthal OR Gruyère OR Fontina OR Tomme OR Reblochon

Caciotta = Casciotta Pronunciation: kah-CHOH-tah Notes: This mild Italian cheese is made with a blend of sheep's milk and cow's milk cheese.

Caerphilly Pronunciation: kar-FILL-ee Notes: This Welsh cow's milk cheese is crumbly and a good melter. Substitutes: Cheddar

Cantal Pronunciation: kahn-TAHL Notes: This French cheese is sweet when young but earthy and grassy when aged. It's a reliable party-pleaser--mild but complex. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Gruyère OR Monterey jack OR Lancashire

Cheddar Notes: The curds of many English cheeses are "cheddared" or cut them into slabs and stacked to allow whey to drain off. Some cheddars have more lactose in them, making them "sharp" or acidic. Less sharp cheddars are often labeled "mild" or "medium." England supplies many fine Cheddars, as does Vermont and Tillamook, Oregon. Substitutes: Colby OR Cheshire OR American cheese OR "Tofu Rella" Amber (a soy-based cheese substitute; use in melted cheese dishes) OR nutritional yeast OR white miso OR cheese substitutes

Cheshire Pronunciation: CHESH-er Notes: Said to be England's oldest cheese, is a good cooking cheese. Blue Cheshire is a blue-veined version. Substitutes: Cheddar OR cheese substitutes

chevre (aged) = chèvre Pronunciation: SHEH-vruh Notes: Don't confuse this aged goat cheese with the far more common chevre frais (fresh chevre). Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: feta

Colby Notes: This Wisconsin cheese resembles a mild Cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar (sharper flavor) OR Tillamook OR American OR cheese substitutes

Comte = Comté = Gruyère du Comté = Comte Gruyere Pronunciation: kohm-TAY Notes: This excellent French cow's milk cheese dates from the time of Charlemagne. It has a mildly sweet, nutty flavor, much like Gruyère. It's a very good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Fontina OR Beaufort OR Emmentaler

Coon Substitutes: Cheddar (not as sharp as Coon)

Danbo Pronunciation: DAN-boh Substitutes: Samsoe OR Cheddar

Derby cheese = Derbyshire cheese Includes: Derby Sage cheese (pictured), which is flavored with sage. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Vermont Sage (for Derby Sage)

Edam Pronunciation: EE-dum Notes: This has a red wax coating. Substitutes: Gouda (similar, but with a higher milkfat content) OR fontina OR Leyden cheese OR cheese substitutes

Emmental = Emmentaler = Emmenthaler = Emmenthal = Bavarian Swiss cheese Pronunciation: EM-uhn-tall Notes: This Swiss cheese is riddled with holes and has a mild, nutty flavor. It's an excellent melting cheese, and a key ingredient in many fondues. Substitutes: Jarlsberg (similar) OR Beaufort OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette OR cheese substitutes

fontina Pronunciation: fon-TEE-nuh Notes: This well-regarded cheese is mild but interesting, and it's a good melter. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Emmental OR Beaufort OR Edam OR Gouda OR Bel Paese OR Appenzell OR provolone OR rablochon

gamonedo = queso gamonedo = gamoneú Pronunciation: gah-moh-NAY-doh Notes: This expensive Spanish cheese is made from the milks of cows, sheep, and goats. It's smoked, giving it a very complex flavor. Substitutes: Cabrales (very similar)

Gjetost Pronunciation: YET-ohst Notes: This tastes a bit like caramelized American cheese. Substitutes: Mysost (very similar)

Gloucester Pronunciation: GLOSS-ter Notes: This orange cheddar-like cheese comes from England. Varieties include Single Gloucester, which is ripened for only two months, and Double Gloucester, which is more highly regarded and flavorful. Huntsman cheese contains layers of Gloucester and Stilton. Substitutes: Cheshire OR Cheddar

Graviera Substitutes: Jarlsberg OR Gruyère

Greve Substitutes: Swiss

Gruyere = Gruyère Pronunciation: grew-YARE Notes: Gruyères are excellent melting cheeses, and they're commonly used to make fondues, soufflés, gratins, and hot sandwiches. Varieties include Swiss Gruyère, Beaufort, and Comté. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Jarlsberg OR Appenzell OR raclette OR Swiss cheese

Gruyère du Comté See Compté.

Idiazabal cheese = Idiazábal cheese = queso vasco Pronunciation: ih-dee-ah-ZAH-bol Notes: This salty, sharp and crumbly Basque cheese is made with raw sheep's milk. It's usually smoked and aged before it hits the stores. It's a good cheese to grate in salads, melt on meats, or eat with crackers. Try serving it with sherry.

Jarlsberg Pronunciation: YARLZ-berg Notes: This is a Norwegian knock-off of Emmentaler. It's mild, creamy yellow, and has large holes. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette

Kaser Substitutes: Kasseri OR Kashkaval OR Provolone

Kashkaval = Kachkeval Notes: This is a Bulgarian version of Italy's Caciocavallo cheese. It becomes much firmer as it ages and turns into a good grating cheese. Substitutes: Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser

kasseri Pronunciation: kuh-SAIR-ee Notes: This salty and tangy Greek cheese is made from sheep's milk. It's great on pizza. Substitutes: Kefalotyri (in fried cheese recipes) OR Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser

Lancashire Pronunciation: LANG-kuh-sheer Notes: This is a rich, tangy, and crumbly cow's milk cheese produced in Britain. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar

Leerdammer Notes: This Dutch cheese is similar to Emmental or Jarlberg, only milder.

Leicester = Red Leicester Pronunciation: LESS-ter Notes: This is an English cheese that's very similar to cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar cheese (Not as moist as Leicester.)

Leyden = Leiden Notes: This Dutch cheese is flavored with cumin and caraway seeds. Pronunciation: LIE-dehn Substitutes: Gouda OR Edam

Mahón cheese = Mahon cheese Pronunciation: mah-HONE Notes: This well-regarded Spanish cheese is a terrific snacking cheese, but it's also incorporated into casseroles. Try it with sherry. Substitutes: Gouda

Manchego cheese Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Manchego cheese, which is firm and yellow, and typically used for grating. Younger Manchego cheese is sweet and nutty. It melts nicely and is often used in quesadillas. Substitutes: Monterey jack OR mozzarella OR cheddar

Mysost = Primost Substitutes: Gjetost (very similar)

Nøkkelost = Nokkelost Notes: This Norwegian cheese is seasoned with caraway seeds, cumin, and cloves. Substitutes: Leyden (a very similar Dutch cheese)

Primost See Mysost.

raclette Pronunciation: rah-KLET Notes: People often melt this Swiss cheese and dip new potatoes into it. Substitutes: Emmental OR Morbier OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR Jarlsberg OR Reblochon

Saint Nectaire cheese = St. Nectaire cheese Pronunciation: SAHN neck-TARE Notes: This French cheese has a rich, nutty flavor. Substitutes: Tomme de Savoie OR Tomme Crayeuse

Swiss cheese = American Swiss cheese Notes: This popular cheese is an American knock-off of Switzerland's Emmentaler cheese. This difference is that our domestic version usually has smaller eyes (making it easier to slice) and is made from pasteurized milk. Emmentaler has a richer, nuttier flavor. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Jarlsberg OR raclette OR cheese substitutes

Tete de Moine = Tête de Moine Notes: This is a very pungent Swiss cow's milk cheese.

Vasterboten cheese

Wensleydale Pronunciation: WENZ-lee-dale Notes: This is a fairly mild English cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar

yak cheese Substitutes: Swiss cheese

Semi-Firm Cheeses

semi-firm cheese = semi-hard cheese Most semi-firm cheeses are pressed during production to remove moisture. As they age, they become even firmer and more pungent and crumbly.

Most of these cheeses are great for snacks and sandwiches, and many can be cooked without becoming rubbery or oily.

Semi-firm cheese tend to have a longer shelf life than softer cheeses. Many can last about 1-2 months in the refrigerator if the package isn't opened, 3-4 weeks if opened, and 2 weeks if sliced.

Substitutes: cheese substitutes

Varieties:

Abondance = Tomme d'Abondance Pronunciation: ah-bone-DAHNS Notes: This French raw milk cheese has a subtle, nutty flavor. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyere OR Fontina OR Appenzell

Appenzell = Appenzeller Notes: This is a creamy and pleasantly stinky cheese. Pronunciation: AP-en-zel Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR raclette OR Fontina

Asiago (fresh) Pronunciation: ah-zee-AH-go Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Asiago, which is a firm grating cheese. Substitutes: Provolone OR other semi-firm cheese

Beaufort Pronunciation: BOH-furt Notes: This semi-firm cheese is slightly sweet and has a nice texture. It's a great melting cheese, so it's often used in fondues. Substitutes: Emmenthal OR Gruyère OR Fontina OR Tomme OR Reblochon

Caciotta = Casciotta Pronunciation: kah-CHOH-tah Notes: This mild Italian cheese is made with a blend of sheep's milk and cow's milk cheese.

Caerphilly Pronunciation: kar-FILL-ee Notes: This Welsh cow's milk cheese is crumbly and a good melter. Substitutes: Cheddar

Cantal Pronunciation: kahn-TAHL Notes: This French cheese is sweet when young but earthy and grassy when aged. It's a reliable party-pleaser--mild but complex. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Gruyère OR Monterey jack OR Lancashire

Cheddar Notes: The curds of many English cheeses are "cheddared" or cut them into slabs and stacked to allow whey to drain off. Some cheddars have more lactose in them, making them "sharp" or acidic. Less sharp cheddars are often labeled "mild" or "medium." England supplies many fine Cheddars, as does Vermont and Tillamook, Oregon. Substitutes: Colby OR Cheshire OR American cheese OR "Tofu Rella" Amber (a soy-based cheese substitute; use in melted cheese dishes) OR nutritional yeast OR white miso OR cheese substitutes

Cheshire Pronunciation: CHESH-er Notes: Said to be England's oldest cheese, is a good cooking cheese. Blue Cheshire is a blue-veined version. Substitutes: Cheddar OR cheese substitutes

chevre (aged) = chèvre Pronunciation: SHEH-vruh Notes: Don't confuse this aged goat cheese with the far more common chevre frais (fresh chevre). Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: feta

Colby Notes: This Wisconsin cheese resembles a mild Cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar (sharper flavor) OR Tillamook OR American OR cheese substitutes

Comte = Comté = Gruyère du Comté = Comte Gruyere Pronunciation: kohm-TAY Notes: This excellent French cow's milk cheese dates from the time of Charlemagne. It has a mildly sweet, nutty flavor, much like Gruyère. It's a very good melting cheese. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Fontina OR Beaufort OR Emmentaler

Coon Substitutes: Cheddar (not as sharp as Coon)

Danbo Pronunciation: DAN-boh Substitutes: Samsoe OR Cheddar

Derby cheese = Derbyshire cheese Includes: Derby Sage cheese (pictured), which is flavored with sage. Substitutes: Cheddar OR Vermont Sage (for Derby Sage)

Edam Pronunciation: EE-dum Notes: This has a red wax coating. Substitutes: Gouda (similar, but with a higher milkfat content) OR fontina OR Leyden cheese OR cheese substitutes

Emmental = Emmentaler = Emmenthaler = Emmenthal = Bavarian Swiss cheese Pronunciation: EM-uhn-tall Notes: This Swiss cheese is riddled with holes and has a mild, nutty flavor. It's an excellent melting cheese, and a key ingredient in many fondues. Substitutes: Jarlsberg (similar) OR Beaufort OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette OR cheese substitutes

fontina Pronunciation: fon-TEE-nuh Notes: This well-regarded cheese is mild but interesting, and it's a good melter. Substitutes: Gruyère OR Emmental OR Beaufort OR Edam OR Gouda OR Bel Paese OR Appenzell OR provolone OR rablochon

gamonedo = queso gamonedo = gamoneú Pronunciation: gah-moh-NAY-doh Notes: This expensive Spanish cheese is made from the milks of cows, sheep, and goats. It's smoked, giving it a very complex flavor. Substitutes: Cabrales (very similar)

Gjetost Pronunciation: YET-ohst Notes: This tastes a bit like caramelized American cheese. Substitutes: Mysost (very similar)

Gloucester Pronunciation: GLOSS-ter Notes: This orange cheddar-like cheese comes from England. Varieties include Single Gloucester, which is ripened for only two months, and Double Gloucester, which is more highly regarded and flavorful. Huntsman cheese contains layers of Gloucester and Stilton. Substitutes: Cheshire OR Cheddar

Graviera Substitutes: Jarlsberg OR Gruyère

Greve Substitutes: Swiss

Gruyere = Gruyère Pronunciation: grew-YARE Notes: Gruyères are excellent melting cheeses, and they're commonly used to make fondues, soufflés, gratins, and hot sandwiches. Varieties include Swiss Gruyère, Beaufort, and Comté. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Jarlsberg OR Appenzell OR raclette OR Swiss cheese

Gruyère du Comté See Compté.

Idiazabal cheese = Idiazábal cheese = queso vasco Pronunciation: ih-dee-ah-ZAH-bol Notes: This salty, sharp and crumbly Basque cheese is made with raw sheep's milk. It's usually smoked and aged before it hits the stores. It's a good cheese to grate in salads, melt on meats, or eat with crackers. Try serving it with sherry.

Jarlsberg Pronunciation: YARLZ-berg Notes: This is a Norwegian knock-off of Emmentaler. It's mild, creamy yellow, and has large holes. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR raclette

Kaser Substitutes: Kasseri OR Kashkaval OR Provolone

Kashkaval = Kachkeval Notes: This is a Bulgarian version of Italy's Caciocavallo cheese. It becomes much firmer as it ages and turns into a good grating cheese. Substitutes: Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser

kasseri Pronunciation: kuh-SAIR-ee Notes: This salty and tangy Greek cheese is made from sheep's milk. It's great on pizza. Substitutes: Kefalotyri (in fried cheese recipes) OR Caciocavallo OR Provolone OR Scarmorza OR mozzarella OR Kashkaval OR Kaser

Lancashire Pronunciation: LANG-kuh-sheer Notes: This is a rich, tangy, and crumbly cow's milk cheese produced in Britain. It's a good melting cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar

Leerdammer Notes: This Dutch cheese is similar to Emmental or Jarlberg, only milder.

Leicester = Red Leicester Pronunciation: LESS-ter Notes: This is an English cheese that's very similar to cheddar. Substitutes: Cheddar cheese (Not as moist as Leicester.)

Leyden = Leiden Notes: This Dutch cheese is flavored with cumin and caraway seeds. Pronunciation: LIE-dehn Substitutes: Gouda OR Edam

Mahón cheese = Mahon cheese Pronunciation: mah-HONE Notes: This well-regarded Spanish cheese is a terrific snacking cheese, but it's also incorporated into casseroles. Try it with sherry. Substitutes: Gouda

Manchego cheese Notes: Don't confuse this with aged Manchego cheese, which is firm and yellow, and typically used for grating. Younger Manchego cheese is sweet and nutty. It melts nicely and is often used in quesadillas. Substitutes: Monterey jack OR mozzarella OR cheddar

Mysost = Primost Substitutes: Gjetost (very similar)

Nøkkelost = Nokkelost Notes: This Norwegian cheese is seasoned with caraway seeds, cumin, and cloves. Substitutes: Leyden (a very similar Dutch cheese)

Primost See Mysost.

raclette Pronunciation: rah-KLET Notes: People often melt this Swiss cheese and dip new potatoes into it. Substitutes: Emmental OR Morbier OR Gruyère OR Swiss OR Jarlsberg OR Reblochon

Saint Nectaire cheese = St. Nectaire cheese Pronunciation: SAHN neck-TARE Notes: This French cheese has a rich, nutty flavor. Substitutes: Tomme de Savoie OR Tomme Crayeuse

Swiss cheese = American Swiss cheese Notes: This popular cheese is an American knock-off of Switzerland's Emmentaler cheese. This difference is that our domestic version usually has smaller eyes (making it easier to slice) and is made from pasteurized milk. Emmentaler has a richer, nuttier flavor. Substitutes: Emmentaler OR Gruyère OR Jarlsberg OR raclette OR cheese substitutes

Tete de Moine = Tête de Moine Notes: This is a very pungent Swiss cow's milk cheese.

Vasterboten cheese

Wensleydale Pronunciation: WENZ-lee-dale Notes: This is a fairly mild English cheese. Substitutes: Cheddar

yak cheese Substitutes: Swiss cheese

Firm Cheeses

firm cheeses = hard cheeses = grating cheeses = grana Notes: Cheeses usually become not only firmer but more pungent as they age, so most of the cheeses in this category pack a lot of flavor. They're often grated onto pasta dishes. Firm cheeses have a much longer shelf life than their softer counterparts.

Varieties:

Asiago (aged) Pronuncation: ah-zee-AH-go Notes: This grating cheese is similar to Parmesan and Romano, but it's sweeter. It's good on pizza. There's no need to spring for a pricy Italian Asiago--our domestic knock-offs are pretty good. Don't confuse aged Asiago with the relatively obscure fresh Asiago cheese, which is semi-soft. Substitutes: Parmesan (a little sharper) OR Romano (much sharper) OR dry jack cheese OR Sapsago (low in fat) OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.) OR oil-cured black olives (as a pizza topping) OR seasoned breadcrumbs (as a pizza topping)

Cacique See cotija.

cotija = queso anejado Notes: This is a sharp, salty white grating cheese that softens but doesn't melt when heated. Cacique is a well-known brand. Look for it in Hispanic markets. Substitutes: Parmesan OR Romano OR anejo cheese OR feta cheese OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

dry jack = dry Monterey Notes: This is aged jack cheese. Substitutes: Parmesan

Grana Padano Notes: This is just like Parmesan, except that it's made in a different part of Italy. Substitutes: Parmesan OR Asiago OR Romano OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.) OR oil-cured black olives (as a pizza topping) OR seasoned breadcrumbs (as a pizza topping)

Kashkaval (aged) = Kachkeval (aged) Notes: Don't confuse this with ordinary Kashkaval, which is a semi-firm cheese. Substitutes: Parmesan OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Kefalotyri = Kefalotiri Pronunciation: KEE-fah-loh-TEER-ee Notes: This tangy hard Greek cheese is often grated over dishes. Substitutes: Romano OR Parmesan OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Locatelli See Romano.

Manchego (aged) = queso Manchego viejo Notes: Aged Manchego cheese is yellow and a terrific grating cheese. Don't confuse it with unaged Manchego cheese, which is almost white, semi-firm, and typically used as a melting cheese. Substitutes: pecorino Romano OR other firm cheese OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

mimolette cheese = boule de Lille Pronunciation: mee-moh-LET Notes: This French cheese is similar to Parmesan cheese, only it's a brilliant orange. Substitutes: Parmesan cheese

Mizithra (aged) = Mytzithra (aged) Notes: Don't confuse this salty grating cheese with fresh Mizithra, which is similar to feta. This cheese is dry, crumbly, and very salty. Substitutes: ricotta salata OR Romano OR Parmesan OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Parmesan cheese = Parmigiano Notes: This firm cheese is pungent and salty, and it's terrific grated on salads, pasta, or pizzas, or served simply with figs, pears, or crusty bread. The best parmesan is the Northern Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano, but less pricy domestic Parmesans are also well

regarded. Substitutes: grana Padano OR Romano (higher in fat; sharper flavor) OR aged Asiago (saltier) OR Sapsago (low in fat) OR Swiss Sbrinz OR Fontina OR Monterey jack OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.) OR "Soyco" grated parmesan (a soy-based cheese substitute) OR See the Parmesan Sprinkle recipe (made with yeast flakes and almonds) posted on www.vegweb.com. OR oil-cured black olives (as a pizza topping) OR seasoned breadcrumbs (as a pizza topping)

Parmigiano-Reggiano See Parmesan.

pecorino Romano See Romano.

Pecorino Tuscano Pronunciation: peh-koh-REE-noh Notes: This is a firm Italian sheep's milk cheese.

queso anejado See cotija.

queso enchilada = anejo enchilado = queso anejo Notes: This is a hard Mexican grating cheese that's coated with red chile paste. Substitutes: cotija (sharper tasting) OR Romano OR Parmesan OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

queso Manchego See Manchego.

Romano Notes: Romano is similar to Parmesan and Asiago, only it has a nuttier, sharper, and saltier flavor. It's often grated onto pizzas and pasta dishes to add flavor. Pecorino Romano is made from sheep's milk, Caprino Romano from goat's milk, and Vacchino Romano from cow's milk. Domestic Romanos aren't as well-regarded as Italian Romanos. Substitutes: Parmesan (not as sharp and salty) OR Asiago (sweeter) OR Sapsago (low-fat) OR Manchego OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.) OR cheese substitute OR oil-cured black olives (as a pizza topping) OR seasoned breadcrumbs (as a pizza topping)

Saanen Substitutes: other firm cheese OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Saenkanter cheese Notes: This aged Gouda has a very complex, rich flavor.

Sapsago = Sap sago = Schabziger Notes: This Swiss grating cheese is colored and flavored by a clover-like herb. It's hard to find, but many seek it out as a low-fat substitute for Parmesan and Romano. Substitutes: Romano OR Parmesan OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Sbrinz = Swiss Sbrinz Notes: This hard Swiss cheese resembles Parmesan. Substitutes: Emmentaler (softer) OR Gruyere (softer) OR Parmesan OR Romano OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Sierra Substitutes: Romano OR Parmesan OR other firm cheese OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Swiss Sbrinz See Sbrinz.

Tzfati Substitutes: Parmesan OR other firm cheese OR nutritional yeast (This substitution works best if recipe calls for cheese to be sprinkled over a dish. Nutritional yeast is low in fat, high in protein and B vitamins, and it's not made with any animal products.)

Blue Cheeses

blue cheese = blue-veined cheese Notes: Many centuries ago, cheese was left to age in some moldy cave and became streaked with bluish-green mold. But rather than spoiling the cheese, the mold gave it a pungent and distinctive flavor, and blue cheese was born.

Since then, cheese-makers learned to inject or stir mold spores into different cheeses, and many still use caves to age them.

Blue cheese--either crumbled or in a dressing--nicely balances bitter greens in salads. You can also pair it with bread, crackers, or fruit for an appetizer, or let it melt on pasta or grilled meats. Blue cheeses vary in pungency--I'd serve a mild blue cheese like Cambozola at a neighborhood get-together, and a more pungent blue like Saint Agur or Cabrales to fellow foodies that I'm trying to impress. Stilton is the most renown blue cheese, and a reliable party-pleaser.

Blue cheeses grow more pungent with age or mishandling, and it's best to use them within a few days of purchase. Like almost all cheeses, blues should be brought to room temperature before serving. Substitutes: feta cheese Complements: bitter salad greens OR port wine OR dried fruit OR robust red wine OR apples OR pears OR melons OR stone fruit OR honey OR nuts OR figs

Varieties that are best for:

Dressing salads: Stilton OR Roquefort OR Bavarian blue OR Gorgonzola OR Cabrales

Snacking: Gorgonzola OR Saga blue OR Stilton OR Bleu d'Auvergne

Melting on meats: Cabrales OR Gorgonzola OR Picon

Dressing pasta: Roquefort OR Maytag Blue OR Gorgonzola OR Danish Blue

Dessert: Saga blue OR Stilton OR Roquefort OR Gorgonzola

Varieties:

Bavarian blue Notes: This is a mild and creamy German blue cheese. It's good for crumbling on salads and snacking. Paladin Bavarian Blue is a popular brand. Substitutes: Blue Castello

Bleu d'Auvergne Pronunciation: BLUH-doh-VAIRN Notes: A moist, crumbly, and somewhat salty blue cheese from France. It's milder and cheaper than Roquefort, and it works well in salad dressings or as a snacking cheese. Substitutes: Roquefort OR Maytag Blue OR Fourme d'Ambert

Bleu de Bresse Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-BRESS Notes: This blue cheese from France is made with cow's milk, and is buttery and mild. It's a safe but unexciting cheese to serve company. An American version called Bresse bleu is milder still. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Blue Castello OR Brie OR Gorgonzola

Bleu des Causses

Bleu de Chevre = Bleuet Notes: This French blue cheese is made with goat's milk. It's shaped as a pyramid, and has a distinctive country (or barnyard, some would say) flavor.

Bleu de Gex (Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-ZHECKS) = Bleu de Septmoncel (Pronunciation: BLUH-duh-SET-mohn-SELL) Notes: The French have been producing this excellent but hard-to-find blue cheese since the 13th century. Made with cow's milk, it's pungent without being overpowering. Substitutes: Stilton

Blue Castello Notes: This is a rich, moist, and creamy blue cheese. It's fairly mild and a good choice for unadventurous guests. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Bleu de Bresse OR Bavarian blue cheese

Cabrales = queso de Cabrales Pronunciation: cuh-BRAW-lays Notes: This is a crumbly and very pungent blue

cheese from Spain. Substitutes: Picon OR Valdeon OR Roquefort

Cambozola Notes: This German cheese combines the moist, rich creaminess of Camembert with the sharpness of blue Gorgonzola. It's one of the mildest blue cheeses. Substitutes: Blue Castello (also creamy and mild) OR Bleu de Bresse (also creamy and mild) OR Brie OR Camembert OR Saga blue (considered much better) OR Gorgonzola dolce

Cashel Bleu = Cashel Blue = Irish Cashel Notes: This creamy yet crumbly blue cheese from Ireland has a tangy but mellow flavor. It's cheaper than Stilton but not quite as good. Substitutes: Stilton OR Gorgonzola OR Roquefort

Danablu See Danish blue.

Danish blue = Danablu Notes: Danish blue is rich and creamy, but it's considered inferior to Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or Stilton. Substitutes: Another blue cheese

Fourme d'Ambert Pronunciation: FOORM-dom-BARE Notes: The French claim to have been making this moist blue cheese since the time of the Ancient Romans. It's cheaper and milder than many blue cheeses. Substitutes: Saint Agur cheese OR Cambozola OR Cashel Blue OR Stilton OR Bleu d'Auverne OR Bleu de Gex

Gorgonzola Pronunciation: gore-gun-ZOE-lah Notes: Italian Gorgonzolas are creamy and mild, while domestic versions are sharper and more crumbly. A Gorgonzola dolce (DOLE-chay) is young, creamy, and mild, while a Gorgonzola naturale = mountain Gorgonzola is aged until it's firmer and more pungent. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Some Gorgonzola cheeses can be frozen successfully, others become crumbly (but still usable in salads). For best results, first cut the cheese into small (1/2 pound) chunks, and wrap each chunk in an airtight package. Thaw in the refrigerator, and use the cheese soon after it's thawed. Substitutes: Roquefort (has a less fatty texture) OR Stilton (much firmer) OR Saga Blue cheese

Maytag Blue Notes: This American blue cheese is pungent and crumbly. Use it within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Substitutes: Roquefort

Montbriac = Montbriac Rochebaron Notes: This French cow's milk cheese is a mild blue cheese that's soft and creamy like a Brie. It's coated with ash. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Bleu de Bresse OR Bavarian blue cheese OR Blue Castello

picon = picón = picos de Europa = Picon cabrales Pronunciation: pee-CONE Notes: This excellent Spanish blue cheese comes wrapped in maple leaves. It's moist, crumbly, and pungent. Substitutes: Cabrales OR Valdeon OR Roquefort

Roquefort Pronunciation: ROKE-uh-furt (Americanized) or roke-FOOR (French) Notes: This French sheep's milk cheese is considered to be one of the finest of the blue cheeses. Some Roquefort cheeses can be frozen successfully, others become crumbly (but still usable in salads). For best results, first cut the cheese into small (1/2 pound) chunks, and wrap each chunk in an airtight package. Thaw in the refrigerator, and use the cheese soon after it's thawed. Substitutes: Maytag Blue OR Gorgonzola (creamier) OR Stilton (firmer) OR Bleu d'Auvergne

Saga blue Notes: This well-regarded Danish blue cheese is soft, rich, and creamy. It's mild enough to be served to unadventurous guests, yet pungent enough to be interesting. Substitutes: Cambozola OR Brie OR Blue Castello

Saint Agur cheese Notes: This superb blue cheese is creamy, spicy, and rich. Substitutes: Fourme d'Ambert OR Cambozola OR Cashel Blue OR Stilton

Shropshire blue cheese (Pronunciation: SHROP-sure) Notes: This crumbly British blue cheese is very similar to Stilton, but it's dyed a yellowish orange. Substitutes: Stilton

Stilton cheese Pronunciation: STILL-tuhn Notes: This is perhaps the most highly regarded of all the blue cheeses. Made in England, it's firmer and milder than Roquefort or Gorgonzola. It's excellent with pears. Don't eat the rind. Substitutes: Roquefort (sharper, softer) OR Gorgonzola (sharper, creamier) OR Shropshire blue cheese (sharper)

Valdeon Notes: This Spanish blue cheese is pungent enough to be interesting without being overpowering. It's a good snacking cheese for adventurous guests. Substitutes: Cabrales (more pungent) OR Picone

Processed Cheeses

American cheese = American cheese food = American pasteurized process cheese food Notes: These are often sold in individually wrapped sandwich slices. Substitutes: Cheddar cheese (much more flavorful) OR Swiss cheese (more flavorful)

Cheez Whiz See pasteurized process cheese sauce.

Gourmandise Pronunciation: goor-mahn-DEEZ Notes: This is a creamy, mild French cheese.

Laughing Cow See Vache Qui Rit.

La Vache Qui Rit See Vache Qui Rit.

pasteurized process cheese Shopping hints: Look for this in deli counters and in holiday gift packs. This cheese is a blend of fresh and aged cheeses, and it's pasteurized to stop the ripening process. This improves shelf life but impairs flavor. Nuts, fruits, and other seasoning are often added. Substitutes: pasteurized process cheese food (moister, lower in fat)

pasteurized process cheese food Shopping hints: Velveeta is a popular brand. This cheese is similar to pasteurized process cheese, but it contains more milk solids and water. Substitutes: pasteurized process cheese (less moist, higher in fat) OR pasteurized process cheese spread (moister, lower in fat)

pasteurized process cheese sauce or spread Shopping hints: Cheez Whiz is a popular brand. This cheese is similar to pasteurized process cheese, but it's moister. To make your own: Melt in a double boiler 2 pounds Velveeta cheese + 1 C milk + 1 teaspoon sugar + 1/2 C margarine. Recipe from the Cookbooks On/Line recipe database. Substitutes: pasteurized process cheese food (less moist, higher in fat) OR vegetarian cheese substitute (To make your own, try the Melty Cheese recipe posted on www.vegweb.com, or the Mock Cheese Sauce recipe posted on pastrywiz.com.)

processed cheese = process cheese These products combine cheese with gums and stabilizers that improve shelf life but compromise flavor and texture.

Vache Qui Rit = La Vache Qui Rit = Laughing Cow Pronunciation: VAHSH-kee-ree Notes: This French cheese comes in wedges or squares.

Velveeta See pasteurized process cheese food.

Cheese Substitutes

cheese substitutes = cheese alternatives = artificial cheese = cheeze = cheese analogues = cheese analogs = fake cheese = phony cheese = nondairy cheese Notes: Many vegetarians eat cheeses made with milk, though many insist on vegetarian cheeses made without animal rennet. Cheese substitutes, on the other hand, are designed either for people who, because of moral scruples or dietary restrictions, don't wish to consume anything made with milk, or for cost-cutters who want to

scrimp on real cheese.

There are many brands of cheese substitutes on the market today, and most are made with soybeans, rice, almonds and/or hemp seed. Most are made to taste something like popular milk-based cheeses like Cheddar, Mozzarella, Gouda, American, Provolone, and Jack.

Cheese substitutes are blander and more rubbery than real cheeses, but many brands melt fairly well in cooked dishes, especially if grated first. Fake mozzarella comes closest in flavor and texture to the real deal.

Fake cheese often contains casein or caseinates, which are derived from milk. These kinds of cheeses won't pass muster with many vegans, but they're a good choice for people trying to restrict their consumption of cholesterol and lactose. Strict vegans should seek out cheeses labeled "vegan" or "dairy-free." Unfortunately, casein is what makes cheese (real and fake alike) more elastic, so non-dairy cheeses won't pull and stretch properly when melted.

Eggs

chicken egg See egg.

duck egg Notes: Compared to chicken eggs, these are larger, higher in fat, more colorful, and more flavorful. They're sometimes contaminated with bacteria, so make sure you cook them thoroughly. Substitutes: chicken egg (smaller and not as oily, colorful, and flavorful)

egg = chicken egg Equivalents: One egg contains about one tablespoon of egg yolk and two tablespoons of egg white and weighs about two ounces without the shell. Varieties: Eggs come in different sizes. Most recipes assume that you're using large eggs. To substitute larger or smaller eggs in recipes, visit the Basic Egg Facts page. Also available are reduced cholesterol eggs (sold in the shell), powdered eggs, and liquid pasteurized eggs (sold in cartons). Equivalents: 1 whole egg = 2 egg whites (to reduce fat; may make baked goods less tender) = 2 egg yolks (in sauces, custards, and cream fillings). One egg contains about one tablespoon of egg yolk and two tablespoons of egg white.

Substitutes:

All- purpose

duck egg (larger, and oilier, more colorful, and more flavorful)

For scrambling and making omelets

silken tofu (This works best with crumbled firm or extra firm tofu. It helps to add lots of seasonings like onions, mushrooms, nutritional yeast or cheese, and herbs. One egg = 1/4 cup tofu.) ) See also the recipe for Tofu Omelette posted by Veggies Unite!)

OR egg substitute (Substitute 1/4 cup egg substitute for each egg.)

OR egg whites (A good combination is two egg whites for every egg yolk.)

For baking

1 egg = 2 tablespoons liquid + 2 tablespoons flour + ½ tablespoon shortening + ½ teaspoon baking powder (Recipe from Substituting Ingredients by Becky Sue Epstein and Hilary Dole Klein. See my sources. Add one or two drops of yellow food coloring if desired.)

OR egg substitute (Substitute 1/4 cup egg substitute for each egg. Using egg substitute in place of eggs tends to make baked goods rubbery, because egg substitute has no fat. To improve the product's texture, add one teaspoon of canola oil for each egg replaced. Egg substitute can't be whipped and is much more expensive than regular eggs. It doesn't work well in cheesecakes. For more information, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Egg Substitutes page; for a recipe, visit its Homemade Egg Substitute page)

OR egg whites (Substitute 2 egg whites for each whole egg. This substitution may make baked goods less tender. To compensate, try adding 1 teaspoon of oil per egg called for in recipe.)

OR flaxmeal (Make flaxmeal by grinding flaxseed in a blender until it has the consistency of cornmeal. Use two tablespoons flaxmeal plus 1/8 teaspoon baking powder plus 3 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.

OR egg yolks (Higher in fat, but increasing the egg yolks in a baked good often makes it moister and more flavorful.)

OR gelatin (To replace each egg: Dissolve 1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin in 1 tablespoon cold water, then add 2 tablespoons boiling water. Beat vigorously until frothy.)

OR cornstarch (Substitute 1 tablespoon cornstarch plus 3 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.

OR mayonnaise (Substitute 3 tablespoons mayonnaise for each egg called for in recipe.)

OR Ener-G Egg Replacer (Substitute 1 1/2 teaspoons Egg Replacer plus 2 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.)

OR bananas (Substitute 1/2 of a mashed ripe banana plus 1/4 teaspoon baking powder for each egg.)

OR silken tofu (Substitute 1/4 cup tofu for each egg.)

OR fruit-based fat substitutes (Substitute 2 tablespoons fat substitute for each egg in recipe.)

As a glue for breading

milk (crumbs won't stick as well; consider refrigerating the breaded food for about an hour before cooking to improve adhesion)

Custards and cream fillings

egg yolks (Substitute 2 egg yolks for each whole egg. This is higher in fat, but works wonders in sauces, custards, and cream fillings.)

For coating pie crusts

omit (note: crust may become soggier) OR cold milk (to add gloss) OR cream (to add gloss)

To bind ingredients

Ener-G Egg Replacer (Substitute 1 1/2 teaspoons Egg Replacer plus 2 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.)

If recipe calls for raw eggs (and you wish to reduce the risk of salmonella poisoning)

pasteurized eggs (for whole eggs; available in the frozen foods section) OR powdered egg-white substitutes (for egg whites) OR meringue powder (for egg whites; may contain sugar)

egg substitute Substitutes: 1 egg = 1/4 C egg substitute OR 1 egg = 3 tablespoons egg substitute + 1 tablespoon oil (especially in recipes for baked goods)

Just Whites See powdered egg white.

meringue powder Shopping hints: Look for this in stores that sell cake decorating supplies. Substitutes: powdered egg whites Links: For information on how to make meringues safely using raw egg whites, visit the Other Safety Factors section of the American Egg Board web site.

powdered egg white Shopping hints: Look for this in stores that sell cake decorating supplies. Just Whites is a popular brand. Substitutes: meringue powder OR For information on how to make meringues safely using raw egg whites, visit the Other Safety Factors section of the American Egg Board web site.

quail egg Substitutes: chicken egg (larger, but taste is similar)

salted duck egg To make your own: See the Recipesource.com recipe for Salted Eggs.

thousand-year egg To make your own: See the RecipeSource.com recipe for Thousand-year Eggs.

Global Herbs

Chinese parsley

cilantro = coriander leaf = Chinese parsley = culantrillo = koyendoro = Mexican parsley = pak chee = yuen-sai = green coriander = coriander green Pronunciation: sih-LAN-troh Notes: Cilantro leaves are used throughout the world as a fragrant herb. Hispanic cooks use it in salsas, Asians in stir-fries, and Indians in curries. The seeds (called coriander seeds), stems, and roots of the plant are also used. Cilantro doesn't cook very well, so always add it to hot dishes at the last minute. Don't confuse cilantro with Italian parsley, which looks just like it but isn't nearly as fragrant. Substitutes: Italian parsley (If you like, add some mint or lemon juice or a dash of ground

coriander.) OR equal parts parsley and mint OR parsley + dash lemon juice OR papalo (similar flavor, but more pungent) OR parsley + dash ground coriander OR celery leaves OR dill (especially in Thai seafood dishes) OR basil

coriander leaf

culantrillo

koyendoro

Mexican parsley

mint Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: Mint is used throughout the world to flavor everything from lamb to candy. It's also a great garnish and breath freshener. Spearmint is the variety you're most likely to encounter in markets, and it's the best choice for savory dishes. Peppermint = brandy mint has a stronger flavor and is best suited to dessert recipes. Used dried mint only in a pinch--it's not nearly as flavorful as fresh. Substitutes: fresh parsley + pinch of dried mint OR basil (especially in Thai cuisine) OR shiso

pak chee

yuen-sai

African Herbs

baobab leaves Notes: African cooks use leaves from the massive baobab tree to thicken their stews. Like okra, the leaves give the dish a slimy texture that's characteristic of West African stews. Substitutes: okra OR file gumbo OR ogbono

kuka Notes: This African herb is a powder made from the leaves of a baobab trees. Substitutes: file powder

American Herbs

filé powder = filé = gumbo file = gumbo filé = ground sassafras leaves = sassafras leaves = file powder = file = fil powder = fil Pronunciation: FEE-lay or fih-LAY Notes: This powder is made from the same leaves that used to give root beer its distinctive flavor, back in the days before artificial flavorings. Southerners add filé to their gumbos to thicken and flavor them. The powder gets stringy when it's heated, so add it only after you've removed the gumbo from the heat source. Filé also doesn't reheat well, so add it only to the gumbo that you're planning to eat right away. Substitutes: okra (Cooking this vegetable in your gumbo is another traditional way to thicken it.) OR cornstarch (This is another thickener, but it lacks filé's distinctive root beer-like flavor.)

Asian Herbs

anise basil Notes: This is used in Southeast Asia. Substitutes: holy basil OR basil + mint

Asian basil

bai gaprao

bai kraprao

bai makrut

bai-toey = bai toey = bai touy Notes: This name is also used for screwpine leaves. Bai-toey leaves are about four inches in diameter, and smell a bit like a dentist's office. Look for them in Southeast Asian markets.

betel leaf = pupulu Notes: The Vietnamese wrap beef in these leaves, while others chew them like gum. Substitutes: shiso OR grape leaves

chile leaf = chilli leaf = chili leaf = la ot = rau ot Notes: This herb isn't nearly as hot as the chile that comes from the same plant. It's sometimes used as a cooking green in Southeast Asia. Substitutes: spinach (not as pungent)

Chinese chives = gow choy = garlic chives = ku chai Notes: Unlike regular chives, these have flat leaves and a distinct garlicky flavor. Substitutes: garlic shoots OR chives (not as pungent as Chinese chives) OR flowering chives

daun kesom

daun pandan

daun salam

flowering chives = flowering Chinese chives = flowering garlic chives Notes: These come from the same plant as Chinese chives. They're usually marketed and cooked before the buds open. Substitutes: garlic shoots OR Chinese chives (not as pungent)

gow choy

hairy basil

holy basil = bai kaprao = bai kaprow = bai gaprao = bai kraprao Notes: This has jagged leaves. It's fairly pungent, so it's rarely eaten raw. Substitutes: basil (This isn't as spicy as holy basil.) OR basil + mint OR basil + ground pepper OR basil + crushed red chili peppers

Indonesian bay leaf = daun salam = salam leaf Substitutes: curry leaves OR bay leaves

Indonesian lime leaves

kaffir lime leaf = makroot leaf = makrut lime leaf = magrood leaf =daun jeruk purut = daun limau purut = bai makrut = Indonesian lime leaves Notes: A kaffir lime leaf look as if two glossy, dark green leaves were joined together end to end, forming a figure-eight pattern. Most Thai recipes count each double leaf as two separate leaves. Frozen kaffir lime leaves are a good substitute for fresh. Dried leaves are much less flavorful, so use twice as many as the recipe calls for if you're substituting them for fresh leaves. Substitutes: lime leaves OR kaffir lime (One tablespoon of zest from a kaffir lime is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.) OR lime zest (One tablespoon of zest from a lime is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.) OR lemon leaves OR lemons (One tablespoon of zest from a lemon is equivalent to about 6 kaffir lime leaves.)

ketumbar = daun ketumbar Notes: This is hard to find, but Asian markets sometimes carry them. Substitutes: cilantro

kewra

laksa leaf = daun kesom = rau ram = Vietnamese mint = water pepper = Vietnamese coriander Notes: Vietnamese sprinkle this herb on their laksa soups. It has a strong, minty, peppery flavor. It's sold in bunches with lots of pointy leaves on each stem. Substitutes: mint OR equal parts mint and cilantro

la-lot leaf = la lot leaf = pepper leaf Notes: These are used as meat wrappers in Vietnam. Substitutes: shiso leaves OR grape leaves

lemon basil = bai maengluk = bai manglak = kemangi Notes: This has a lemony flavor, and small, pointed, fuzzy leaves. Thai cooks toss it into soups, salads, and noodle dishes. Substitutes: basil + mint OR sweet basil

lemongrass = lemon grass = citronella = fever grass = serai = sereh = takrai Equivalents: 1 small, trimmed stalk = 1 teaspoon sereh powder = 1 tablespoon dried lemon grass Notes: Thai cooks use these grayish green stalks to impart a lemony flavor to their dishes. Remove the outer leaves, then use about six inches of the base, discarding the top and the very bottom. It's best to cut lemongrass into large pieces that can be easily removed after the dish is cooked. Frozen lemongrass is a good substitute for

fresh, but dried lemongrass (soaked in hot water) is only a fair substitute. Use powdered version (called sereh powder) only in a pinch. Substitutes: lemon zest (zest from 1 lemon = 2 stalks lemon grass) OR lemon verbena OR lemon balm OR lemon leaves

licorice basil

ma grood leaf

makroot leaf

makrut lime leaf

mitsuba = trefoil = honewort Notes: The Japanese use this to flavor soups and salads. Substitutes: watercress

rice paddy herb = ngo om Notes: Vietnamese and Thai cooks use this herb in soups and curry dishes. Substitutes: sawleaf herb OR cilantro

pandan leaf

pandanus leaf

perilla

rampe leaf

rau ram

salam leaves

sawleaf herb = ngo gai Substitutes: cilantro (very similar flavor) OR mint OR basil

screw pine leaf = screwpine leaf = bai toey =bai touy = pandanus leaf = daun pandan = pandan leaf = kewra = rampe leaf Notes: These sword-shaped leaves are about two feet long. Look for plastic bags of folded leaves among the frozen foods in Asian markets. Substitutes: green food coloring (for color, not flavor) OR vanilla + green food coloring (different flavor)

serai powder = sereh powder See: lemon grass

sesame leaf Notes: This comes from the same plant that gives us sesame seeds. Koreans use them to wrap packets of meat or as a fresh herb. Substitutes: romaine lettuce (as a wrapper)

shiso = perilla = beefsteak plant Notes: The Japanese mostly use this pungent herb to flavor pickled plums. It comes in two colors: red and green. Substitutes: mint

sweet Asian basil = sweet basil = bai horapha = bai horapa Notes: This has a pleasant anise flavor, and is the most commonly used basil in Thailand. Substitutes: holy basil OR ordinary basil OR basil + mint

Thai basil = licorice basil Notes: Thai basil has purple stems and flowers. It has a milder flavor than holy basil. Substitutes: basil OR mint

tia to = tia tô Notes: These leaves are purple on one side and green on the other. They have a pleasant, peppery flavor that tastes a bit like cinnamon. Vietnamese cooks often add them to soups at the last minute. Substitutes: shiso OR sweet Asian basil

Thai basil

Vietnamese mint

water pepper

yellow Chinese chives = yellow garlic chives = yellow chives Notes: These are Chinese chives that have been shielded from the sun in order to stifle the production of chlorophyll. Use them just like ordinary Chinese chives. Substitutes: Chinese chives

European Herbs

angelica = archangel = ground ash = masterwort Pronunciation: an-JEL-ih-ca Notes: Angelica is prized for its crunchy stems, which are often candied and used to decorate baked goods. You can also use the leaves and stems to add a celery flavor to liqueurs, sauces, and vegetable side dishes. Substitutes: lovage (This also tastes like celery, and the stems can be candied like angelica.) OR tarragon

archangel

bai holapha

bai manglak

balm

basil Pronunciation: BAY-zuhl or BAHZ-uhl Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: Basil is widely used in Mediterranean countries, where it flavors everything from pasta sauces to pesto, and in Southeast Asia, where it's often stir-fried with other ingredients. There are numerous varieties, ranging from the more pungent Asian basils to the sweeter and milder European varieties. Use dried basil only in a pinch--it's not nearly as flavorful as fresh. Substitutes: oregano OR thyme OR tarragon OR summer savory OR equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR cilantro (This works well in pesto.) OR mint (especially in Thai cuisine)

bay leaf = bay laurel leaf = laurel leaf = sweet bay laurel leaf Equivalents: One whole leaf = 1/4 teaspoon crushed. Substitute one fresh leaf for every two dried leaves, and one California bay leaf for every two Turkish bay leaves. Notes: Bay leaves are a staple of Mediterranean cuisines, lending a woodsy flavor to sauces, stews, and grilled meats. It's best to add whole leaves, then remove them before serving the dish. The Turkish bay leaf is smaller and less potent than the California bay

leaf, but more highly prized due to the complexity of its flavor. Dried leaves are a good substitute for fresh. Substitutes: Indian bay leaves OR boldo leaves (stronger flavor) OR juniper berries (to flavor meat)

bergamot Substitutes: mint

borage Pronunciation: BORE-idge or BURR-idge or BAHR-idge Notes: Borage is best known for its attractive blue flowers, but Europeans sometimes use the leaves as an herb in salads and soups. Borage has a mild flavor that's been likened to that of cucumbers. The leaves are covered with prickly, throat-catching hairs, so it's best to either blanch them or chop them finely before serving them. Substitutes: spinach OR escarole OR burnet

chervil = French parsley Pronunciation: CHUR-vil Notes: This feathery green herb tastes like a subtle blend of parsley and anise. It's far more plentiful in Europe than in America. Avoid the dried version--it has very little flavor. Substitutes: cicely OR parsley + tarragon OR fennel leaves + parsley OR fines herbes (This is a blend of herbs that usually includes chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon.) OR parsley + dill OR tarragon (Like chervil, this is good for flavoring vinegars.) OR chives (especially with eggs) OR dill weed (good for flavoring vinegars)

chives Notes: These slender, hollow shoots have a mild onion flavor. Many cooks use scissors to cut fresh chives, sprinkling them like confetti on potatoes, eggs, and salads. Always use fresh chives--they lose much of their flavor when they're frozen or freeze-dried. Substitutes: green onion tops (These have a stronger flavor and wider shoots. If using them as a substitute for minced chives, slice them lengthwise several times before mincing.) OR Chinese chives (more flavorful)

cicely = sweet cicely = Spanish chervil = sweet chervil Notes: This fern-like herb has a strong anise flavor. It's not well known in the United States, but it's popular in Scandinavia, where it's often used to flavor desserts. Substitutes: fennel leaves OR chervil (milder anise flavor)

citronella

curly parsley = curly-leaf parsley Notes: This has less flavor than Italian parsley, but it makes a terrific garnish. Don't bother buying dried parsley--it has very little flavor. Substitutes: Italian parsley OR chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro

curly parsley

dill leaf = dillweed = dill weed Notes: You can find soft, feathery sprigs of dill leaves in markets throughout the year. Chopped dill is often paired with fish, cucumbers, potatoes, or it's added to dips, salad dressings, or cream sauces. Dill loses flavor when it's heated, so always add it to cooked dishes at the last minute. Avoid dried dill; it has very little flavor. And don't confuse dill leaves with dill seeds--though they come from the

same plant, they're not good substitutes for one another. Substitutes: tarragon (especially in sauces that accompany fish or eggs) OR fennel leaves (as a garnish; looks very similar)

fever grass

French parsley

ground ash

hyssop Pronunciation: HISS-up Notes: The leaves and small blue flowers of this plant are used as a garnish or to impart a mild, slightly bitter flavor to salads, soups, and liqueurs. Don't waste your time drying the leaves--they'll lose almost all of their flavor. Substitutes: sage

Italian basil

Italian parsley Notes: This is the best parsley to use for cooking--it has more flavor than the more common curly parsley. Avoid dried parsley; it has very little flavor. Substitutes: curly parsley OR chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro

kemangi

laurel leaf

lemon balm = balm = melissa = bee balm Notes: Cooks use this herb in teas, salads, jams, and soups. The fresh leaves also make an attractive garnish. Substitutes: bergamot (herb) OR lemon zest

lemon thyme Notes: This variety of thyme has a lemony flavor. Substitutes: thyme + dash lemon zest

lemon verbena = verbena Pronunciation: ver-BEE-nuh Notes: This has a strong lemon flavor that works especially well in teas and vegetable dishes. If you can't find it in the spice section, cut open lemon verbena teabags. Substitutes: lemongrass OR lemon zest

lovage = wild celery = smallage = smellage Pronunciation: LOVE-age Notes: Lovage tastes like celery, but it's even more pungent and flavorful. The only drawback but it can't withstand long cooking like celery can. Use it in any recipe that calls for celery, but use less and add it to cooked dishes at the last minute. Substitutes: equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR Chinese celery OR celery leaves (milder) OR parsley OR chervil

marjoram = sweet marjoram = knot marjoram = knotted marjoram Pronunciation: MAR-jer-um Notes: Marjoram is sweeter and milder than its close relative, oregano. It's often used to season meats and fish, and works best when its added near the end of the cooking period. Fresh is best, but frozen or dried marjoram are acceptable substitutes. Don't confuse this with wild marjoram, which is better known as oregano. Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Substitutes: oregano (This is very similar, but not as sweet and mild as marjoram. Substitute two parts of oregano for three parts of marjoram.) OR thyme OR sage OR basil OR summer savory

masterwort

melissa

opal basil Notes: Opal basil has purple leaves and a longer shelf life than sweet basil, but the two can be used interchangeably in most recipes. Substitutes: sweet basil

oregano = wild marjoram = pot marjoram Pronunciation: uh-REG-uh-no Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: Oregano is a popular herb in Mediterranean countries, where it's often used to season tomato sauces, meat dishes, and pizzas. Mexican oregano has a mintier taste than ordinary oregano. If you can't

find it fresh, dried oregano is a good substitute. Substitutes: marjoram (This is very similar, but milder and sweeter. Substitute two parts of oregano for three parts of marjoram.) OR thyme OR basil OR summer savory

parsley Notes: Parsley is prized both for its looks and for its fresh, grassy flavor. There are two common varieties: the mild curly parsley and the more flavorful Italian parsley. Use curly parsley if you want looks and Italian parsley if you want flavor. Parsley doesn't hold up well to cooking, so add it to cooked dishes at the very last minute. Frozen parsley is a good substitute for fresh, but dried parsley adds only color. Substitutes: chervil OR celery tops OR cilantro

rosemary Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried Notes: The Italians are particularly fond of this pungent herb with its needle-like leaves. They often use it to flavor meats and tomato sauces. Rosemary stems, stripped of their leaves, can also be used as skewers for kabobs. Dried rosemary is an excellent substitute for fresh. Substitutes: sage OR savory OR thyme

sage Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: Sage is often combined with other strong herbs to flavor meat dishes and poultry stuffings. Use it sparingly; a little goes a long way. Dried sage is an excellent substitute for fresh. Substitutes: poultry seasoning OR rosemary OR thyme

savory Notes: This herb has a strong, peppery flavor, and it's often used in Mediterranean countries to flavor beans, mushrooms, vegetables, and meats. There are two varieties: winter savory and the milder summer savory. Winter savory is best suited to slowly cooked dishes like stews. Substitutes: thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint

smallage

smellage

Spanish chervil

spearmint

summer savory Notes: Summer savory is milder than winter savory. Substitutes: thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint

sweet basil = Italian basil Pronunciation: BAY-zuhl or BAHZ-uhl Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 1 teaspoon dried. Notes: This is widely used throughout the Mediterranean region to make tomato sauces, pesto, and other dishes. Substitutes: sweet Asian basil (Use twice as many leaves. Sweet Asian basil is more flavorful, and doesn't wilt as easily when cooked.) OR pesto (Basil is an important ingredient in most pestos.) OR oregano OR thyme OR tarragon OR summer savory OR equal parts parsley and celery leaves OR cilantro (This works well in pesto.) OR mint (especially in Thai dishes)

sweet chervil

sweet cicely

sweet marjoram

tarragon Notes: The French are especially fond of this aromatic, anise-like herb. They often use it to flavor delicately flavored foods like eggs, fish, cheese, and chicken, and it's an indispensable ingredient in sauce béarnaise and in the herb mixture the French call fines herbes. Use it sparingly--a little goes a long way. Frozen tarragon is an excellent substitute for fresh, but use the dried version only in a pinch. Substitutes: dill OR basil OR marjoram OR fennel seed OR anise seed OR angelica

thyme Pronunciation: TIME Equivalents: 1 tablespoon fresh = 3/4 teaspoon dried Notes: This herb is widely used in Mediterranean countries to flavor stews and meat sauces. It's often used in combination with other herbs, like rosemary, parsley, and oregano. Use dried thyme only in a pinch--fresh thyme is far more flavorful. Substitutes: omit from recipe OR herbes de Provence (This blend contains thyme.) OR poultry seasoning (This blend contains thyme.) OR Italian seasoning (This blend contains thyme.) OR savory OR marjoram OR oregano

verbena

wild celery

wild marjoram

winter savory Notes: This perennial herb has a stronger flavor than its annual relative, summer savory. Substitutes: summer savory (milder) OR thyme (stronger flavor) OR thyme + dash of sage or mint

Hispanic Herbs

avocado leaves = hoja de aguacate Notes: Mexican cooks use these to impart an anise-like aroma to foods. They're often used as wrappers, or crumbled into stews. Toast the leaves before using. Substitutes: banana leaves (as a wrapper) OR hoja santa OR fennel (if chopped leaves are called for) OR maguey leaves (as a wrapper)

boldo leaves Notes: These small leaves have a strong woodsy aroma. They're hard to find, but Hispanic markets sometimes carry dried leaves in cellophane bags. Substitutes: Indian bay leaves (also hard to find) OR ordinary bay leaves

culantro = culentro = recao = spirit weed = long coriander = false coriander = Mexican coriander Latin: Eryngium foetidum Notes: This herb is popular throughout the Caribbean. It's similar to cilantro, but more bitter. Substitutes: cilantro (not as bitter)

epazote = goosefoot = Jerusalem oak = lamb's quarters = Mexican tea = wormseed = stinkweed Pronunciation: eh-pa-ZOH-teh Notes: This strongly-flavored herb is commonly used in Mexican bean dishes, partly because it's supposed to reduce flatulence. Fresh epazote has dark green leaves with serrated edges. If you can't find it, the dried version is an acceptable substitute. Substitutes: savory (Like epazote, savory pairs well with beans.) OR omit it from the recipe OR ajwain seeds OR parsley (not as bitter) OR cilantro (not as bitter)

goosefoot

guajes = cuajes Notes: These green or purple flat pods contain seeds that impart an unusual, garlicky flavor to Mexican dishes. The seeds are terrific with scrambled eggs or beans, but they have a reputation for causing flatulence. Substitutes: garlic

hoja santa leaves = hierba santa = rootbeer plant leaves Notes: These heart-shaped leaves impart a root beer flavor to dishes, and they're great for wrapping tamales and other foods. They're hard to find; your best bet is a Hispanic market. Substitutes: unsprayed avocado leaves OR chopped fennel (if recipe calls for leaves to be chopped) OR Swiss chard (if recipe calls for leaves to be chopped) OR banana leaves (as a food wrapper) OR corn husks (for wrapping tamales) OR epazote (Large leaves are great for wrapping tamales.) OR Swiss chard (If recipe calls for hoja santa leaves to be chopped.)

huauzontle Notes: This Mexican vegetable looks like a long, skinny broccoli stick. Mexican cooks dip them in batter and deep-fat fry them. Substitutes: broccoli

Jerusalem oak

lamb's quarters

safflower = Mexican saffron = saffron flower = American saffron Notes: Marketers often call safflower "saffron," but it bears little resemblance to the real thing, except that it imparts a weak, saffron-like color to food. It has very little flavor. Substitutes: saffron (use just a pinch; better flavor but more expensive) OR annatto seeds

Mexican tea

papalo = pápalo = papaloquelite Notes: This Mexican herb is similar to cilantro. It's often added raw to tacos, sandwiches, salads, and guacamole. It doesn't handle heat well, so add it to cooked dishes at the last minute. Substitutes: cilantro

pipicha = pepicha Notes: This Mexican herb tastes a bit like cilantro and mint. Substitutes: cilantro

romeritos Notes: This Mexican herb has succulent leaves and is used as a seasoning or cooking green, especially during Lent. Substitutes: nopalitos OR purslane

wild spearmint

wormseed

yerba buena = wild spearmint = hierba buena Pronunciation: YER-buh BWAY-nuh Notes: The Spanish name "yerba buena" ("good herb") is used to describe several varieties of mint, including Satureja douglasii, Satureja chamissonis, and Mentha spicata (spearmint). Substitutes: spearmint

Indian Herbs

curry leaf = meetha neem = kari patta Notes: These look like small bay leaves and smell like limes. Dried leaves are easier to find than fresh, but they aren't very good. Substitutes: bay leaf (different flavor) OR basil (different flavor) OR kaffir lime leaves (different flavor)

fenugreek leaves = holba = methi leaves Pronunciation: FEHN-yoo-greek Notes: This mildly bitter herb is believed to have medicinal properties. Dried leaves, either whole or ground, are called kasuri methi, and they're a good substitute for fresh. Look for fresh or dried leaves in Indian markets. Substitutes: celery leaves

holba

Indian bay leaf Notes: Dried leaves are very good substitutes for fresh. Don't confuse these with Indonesian bay leaves. Substitutes: bay leaf (Bay laurel leaves are larger and more flavorful than Indian bay leaves. Substitute one bay laurel leaf for every two Indian bay leaves.)

meetha neem

methi leaves

turmeric leaves Notes: These are used in Indian and Southeast Asian dishes. Substitutes: No acceptable substitutes, just omit this from the recipe

Middle Eastern Herbs

meloukhia = Jew's mallow = jute = molukhia Notes: Middle Eastern cooks use this as an herb in their soups. In other regions, fresh meloukhia is used as a cooking green, much like spinach. Substitutes: spinach

Global Spices

allspice = toute-epice = Jamaica pepper = myrtle pepper = pimiento = pimento = clove pepper = newspice Notes: Allspice comes from a single tree, but it tastes like a mixture of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. You can buy it already ground, but for better flavor and a longer shelf life, buy the berries and grind them yourself. Equivalents: 5 whole berries yield 1 teaspoon ground Substitutes: equal parts cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, all ground OR equal parts cinnamon and cloves, all ground OR equal parts cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and black pepper, all ground

anise See anise seed or star anise.

anise seed = aniseed = anis Pronunciation: ANN-us Notes: Cooks use anise seed to impart a licorice flavor to baked goods, liqueurs, and candies. Substitutes: fennel seed (This has a milder flavor and is sweeter than anise.) OR star anise (stronger flavor; 1 crushed star anise = 1/2 teaspoon crushed anise seed) OR caraway seed OR tarragon

benne seed See sesame seed.

black pepper = black peppercorns See pepper.

canela See cinnamon.

cardamom = cardamon = green cardamom Notes: Cardamom figures prominently into the cuisines of India, the Middle East, North Africa, and Scandinavia. It best to buy cardamom seeds still encased in their natural flavor-protecting pods, which you discard after you remove the seeds. You can also buy cardamom without the pods, called cardamom seeds = decorticated cardamom, but the unprotected seeds lose flavor quickly. Ground cardamom seeds are even less flavorful. Recipes that call for cardamom usually intend for you to use green cardamom, named for the green pods that encase the seeds. Some producers bleach the green hulls to a pale tan, but this makes them less aromatic. Brown cardamom is a similar spice that Indians use in savory dishes. Equivalents: One pod yields 1/6 teaspoon cardamom. Substitutes: brown cardamom OR equal parts ground nutmeg and cinnamon OR equal parts ground cloves and cinnamon OR nutmeg OR cinnamon

cardamon See cardamom.

cassia cinnamon = cassia = Chinese cinnamon = Chinese cassia = false cinnamon Notes: Most of the cinnamon that's sold in America is cassia, which is cheaper and more bitter than the choice Ceylon cinnamon. Substitutes: cinnamon OR nutmeg OR allspice

cinnamon Equivalents: One cinnamon stick yields 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Notes: With its warm, sweet flavor, cinnamon is one of the biggest workhorses on the spice shelf. Cooks often use it to flavor baked goods and drinks, but cinnamon also works wonders in stews and sauces. The best cinnamon is Ceylon cinnamon = canela = Sri Lanka cinnamon = true cinnamon. Indonesian cinnamon has a similar taste, but larger quills. Much of the cinnamon sold in the United States is cassia cinnamon, which isn't as well regarded. Substitutes: nutmeg OR allspice

clove pepper See allspice.

clove Notes: Cloves are nail-shaped dried flower buds that have a sweet, penetrating flavor. They can be ground and used to flavor baked goods or sauces, or left whole and poked into roasted hams or pork. Use cloves sparingly--a little goes a long way. Substitutes: allspice (as a substitute for ground cloves)

comino See cumin.

coriander seeds Pronunciation: CORE-ee-an-dehr Notes: Coriander seeds are a common ingredient in the cuisines of India, the Middle East, Latin America, North Africa, and Southeast Asia. The popular herb cilantro comes from the same plant, but it's not a good substitute for the seeds. You can buy the seeds already ground, but for better flavor and shelf life, buy coriander seeds and grind them yourself. To enhance the flavor, toast the seeds in a pan for a few minutes first. Substitutes: caraway seeds OR cumin

cumin = comino = cummin = jeera Pronunciation: KUH-min or KYOO-min or KOO-min Equivalents: 1 oz. = 4 tablespoons ground = 4 1/2 tablespoons whole seed. Notes: Cumin is a key ingredient in Southwestern chili recipes, but it's also widely used in Latin America, North Africa, and India. Freshly roasted and ground cumin seeds are far superior to packaged ground cumin. Substitutes: caraway seeds (use half as much) OR black cumin seeds (smaller and sweeter) OR caraway seeds + anise seeds OR chili powder

cummin See cumin.

dill seed = dillseed Notes: Dill seed tastes like dill leaves, but it's much stronger. It's a common ingredient in pickles, dips, and potato salad. Substitutes: dill leaves OR caraway seed OR celery seed

fennel seed = fennel = sweet cumin Pronunciation: FEN-uhl Notes: This is similar to anise seed, but sweeter and milder. It pairs well with fish, but Italians also like to add it to sauces, meat balls, and sausages. Both the seeds and the stalks from the plant are sometimes called fennel. If a recipe calls for a large amount, it probably intends for you to use the stalks. Substitutes: anise seed OR cumin OR caraway seeds OR dill

green cardamom See cardamom.

green pepper= green peppercorns See pepper.

Jamaica pepper See allspice.

jeera See cumin.

lovage seed Substitutes: celery seed

mace Notes: This is the lacy wrapping that covers nutmeg when it's plucked from the tree. Its flavor is similar to nutmeg, but slightly more bitter. It's usually sold already ground, but you can sometimes find blades of mace that you can grind yourself. Substitutes: nutmeg (sweeter and milder than mace) OR allspice OR pumpkin pie spice OR cinnamon OR ginger

mustard seeds Notes: Mustard seeds have a hot, pungent flavor. Yellow mustard seeds are the ones you'll most likely find in American and European kitchens. They're often ground and made into prepared mustard or added to stews and sauces to give them some zip. Indian cooks usually prefer the smaller and more pungent brown mustard seeds or black mustard seeds. When recipes call simply for mustard, they may be referring to prepared mustard, the condiment we like to put on hot dogs. When crushed, mustard seeds are very pungent, but Indian cooks fry them in oil, which makes them sweet and mild. Substitutes: wasabi powder OR horseradish

myrtle pepper See allspice.

newspice See allspice.

pepper See separate web page for pepper.

pimento See allspice.

pimiento See allspice.

pink peppercorns See pepper.

poppy seeds Pronunciation: POP-ee Equivalents: One cup ground poppy seeds = 2 ounces. Notes: These tiny, nutty seeds are typically used in baked goods, but some cuisines also use them in savory dishes. Europeans prefer black poppy seeds, while Indians prefer white, but the two kinds can be substituted for one another. Since poppy seeds are high in fat, they tend to go rancid quickly, so buy small amounts and store them in the refrigerator. Consuming poppy seeds can result in a false positive on a drug test. Substitutes: sesame seeds

saffron Equivalents: 1 teaspoon threads = 1/8 teaspoon powder Notes: To make a pound of saffron, over two hundred thousand stigmas from crocus sativus flowers must be harvested by hand. That's why saffron is the world's most expensive spice, and also why so there are so many fakes on the market. Fortunately, a little of the good stuff goes a long way--it only takes a few threads to add saffron's distinct yellow color and earthy aroma to a family meal of paella or bouillabaisse. You can buy saffron either as as unprocessed stigmas (called saffron threads) or powdered. The threads should be red with orange tips. Threads lacking orange tips may be dyed, so avoid them. The quality of powdered saffron is measured by its Minimum Coloring Strength. The higher the Minimum Coloring Strength, the less saffron you need to use. A typical level is 180, and a level of 220 or higher is quite good. Some cooks prefer the threads to the powder, since it's hard to detect if the powder has been adulterated. Powdered saffron, though,

is easier to use, since it can be added directly to a dish, while the threads need to be steeped in hot water first. Substitutes: turmeric (for color, not flavor; use 4 times as much) OR safflower (use 8 times as much; less expensive and imparts similar color, but taste is decidedly inferior) OR marigold blossoms (for color, not flavor; use twice as much) OR annatto seeds (Steep 1 teaspoon annatto seeds in 1/4 cup of boiling water for 30 minutes, discard seeds. Reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup.) OR red and yellow food coloring

sesame seed = benne seed = goma Notes: These nutritious seeds have a mild, nutty flavor. They're commonly used in baked goods, Asian stir-fries, and Middle-Eastern candies. European recipes for sesame seeds are usually referring to white sesame seeds, but Indian and Asian recipes sometimes intend for you to use the more pungent black sesame seeds. Substitutes: pumpkin seeds

sweet cumin See fennel seed.

toute-epice See allspice.

ground turmeric = powdered turmeric = Indian saffron = eastern saffron. Pronunciation: TURR-mer-ick Notes: Turmeric has a pleasant enough flavor, but it's prized more for the brilliant yellow color it imparts to whatever it's cooked with. It's a standard ingredient in curry powders, pickles, and prepared mustards. Be careful--turmeric can stain your clothes. Substitutes: turmeric (1 piece fresh turmeric = 1 teaspoon ground turmeric) OR mustard powder OR mustard powder + pinch of saffron

vanilla bean = vanilla pod Notes: Vanilla is used to flavor everything from baked goods to ice cream. Most recipes call for vanilla extract, but some argue that vanilla beans lend a more potent flavor. Select beans that are shiny, moist, and pliable--dried out beans aren't nearly as potent. If a recipe calls for just for the seeds, split the bean open and scrape the seeds out, and save the outer pod to flavor sugar or hot drinks. Substitutes: vanilla extract (One inch of vanilla bean = 1 teaspoon extract)

white pepper = white peppercorns See pepper.

yellow mustard seeds = white mustard seeds Notes: Whole mustard seeds are most commonly used to make pickles or relish. Most cooks prefer their mustard either ground, called ground mustard = dry mustard = mustard powder, or ready-made as a condiment, called prepared mustard. Substitutes: powdered mustard OR brown mustard seeds OR black mustard seeds

African Spices

African bird pepper Notes: This is the North African equivalent of our cayenne pepper. Substitutes: cayenne pepper

grains of paradise See melegueta pepper.

Guinea pepper See melegueta pepper.

korerima Notes: Look for this in Ethiopian markets. Substitutes: cardamom

malagueta pepper See melegueta pepper.

malaguetta pepper See melegueta pepper.

melegueta pepper = malaguetta pepper = malagueta pepper = grains of paradise = Guinea pepper Notes: This West African spice is very hard to find in the West. It's similar to cardamom. Substitutes: cardamom OR black peppercorns

osho sho Pronunciation: uh-SHOW-show

ukpo

Asian Spices

asem candis Notes: This is a souring agent used in Indonesia. It's very hard to find. Substitutes: kokum

basil seed = sweet basil seed Notes: Look for it in Southeast Asian markets.

black sesame seeds Notes: Look for this in Asian markets Substitutes: white sesame seeds (Toast them before using. They're not as pungent as black sesame seeds.)

brown peppercorn See Szechwan peppercorn.

Chinese aromatic pepper See Szechwan peppercorn.

Chinese pepper See Szechwan peppercorn.

Chinese star anise See star anise.

flower pepper See Szechwan peppercorn.

Japanese pepper See Szechwan peppercorn.

long pepper Notes: Look for this in Indian or Southeast Asian markets. The seeds come in clumps that look like tiny pine cones. Substitutes: black pepper (milder) OR crushed red pepper

sansho See Szechwan peppercorn.

Sichuan peppercorn See Szechwan peppercorn.

star anise = anise = whole anise = Chinese star anise = Chinese anise Pronunciation: ANN-us Notes: Asian cooks use star anise to give a licorice flavor to savory dishes, particularly those with pork and poultry. It's available whole or ground. Use it sparingly--a little goes a long way. Substitutes: anise seed + pinch of allspice (weaker flavor; 1 crushed star anise = 1/2 teaspoon crushed anise seed) OR Chinese five-spice powder (contains star anise and other spices) OR anise extract (use just a few drops)

Szechwan peppercorn = Sichuan peppercorn = Szechuan peppercorn = anise pepper = brown peppercorn = Chinese aromatic pepper = Chinese pepper = flower pepper = sancho = Japanese pepper = Japan pepper = wild pepper = fagara pepper Notes: These aren't true peppercorns, but rather dried flower buds. You're most likely to encounter them as part of a mixture, like the Chinese five-spice powder or the Japanese shichimi togarashi. Toast Szechwan peppercorns briefly in a hot pan before using. Pronunciation: SITCH-wan OR SITCH-oo-an PEP-er-corn Substitutes: lemon pepper OR black peppercorns OR equal parts black peppercorns and aniseed

whole anise See star anise.

European Spices

caraway seed Notes: These are widely used in Eastern Europe, especially for flavoring rye bread, cheeses, and sauerkraut. Toast them first over low heat in a frying pan for a few minutes to bring out the aroma. Substitutes: dill seed (milder) OR anise seed OR cumin seed

celery seed Notes: Celery seed is used to impart a celery flavor to stews, pickles, and other dishes. Use it sparingly--a little goes a long way. Ground celery seed is sometimes called celery powder. Substitutes: celery (One teaspoon = 2 tablespoons minced celery tops) OR dill seed OR celery salt (reduce the salt elsewhere in the recipe)

ginger = ground ginger = powdered ginger Notes: Recipes for baked goods often call for ground ginger. Don't confuse this with fresh ginger root, which is used mostly in Asian dishes. Substitutes: crystallized ginger (Substitute 1/2 cup minced crystallized ginger for every 1 teaspoon ground ginger called for in recipe. Rinse sugar off ginger first. This is an excellent substitution in many baked goods.) OR ginger root (Substitute 2 tablespoons grated ginger root for every teaspoon ground ginger called for in recipe. For best results, substitute only half the ground ginger in recipe with fresh ginger.) OR cardamom OR allspice OR cinnamon OR mace OR nutmeg

ground ginger See ginger.

Hungarian pepper See paprika.

juniper berries Pronunciation: JEW-nih-per BEHR-eez Notes: This dark blue spice is used to make gin, and to flavor game and sauerkraut. Crush the berries before using. Substitutes: gin (This substitution works well in sauces that accompany game. Substitute one teaspoon gin for every two berries called for in the recipe.) OR equal parts crushed bay leaves and caraway seeds

lemon peel, dried To make your own: Take a lemon peel, scrape off and discard as much of the bitter white pith as possible, and dry what's left in the sun until hard. Substitutes: lemon zest (Fresh zest is often better than dried peel since it has more aromatic oil.)

nutmeg Notes: Freshly grated whole nutmeg tastes far better than packaged ground nutmeg, and has a much longer shelf life. Substitutes: mace OR allspice OR cinnamon OR ginger

orange peel, dried To make your own: Take an orange peel, scrape off and discard as much of the bitter white pith as possible, and dry what's left in the sun until hard. Substitutes: orange zest (Fresh zest is often better than dried peel since it has more aromatic oil.)

paprika Notes: Paprika is made from special kinds of sweet red peppers, which are dried and ground. Varieties include the highly regarded and sweet Hungarian paprika = rose paprika = sweet paprika = Hungarian pepper and the cheaper and more pungent Spanish paprika = Spanish pepper = pimentón = pimenton. Cookbooks that call for paprika are usually referring to Hungarian paprika. Substitutes: cayenne pepper (much hotter)

pimenton See paprika.

powdered ginger See ginger.

Spanish pepper See paprika.

Hispanic Spices

achiote seed See annatto seed.

achote seed See annatto seed.

achuete seed See annatto seed.

annatto seed = achiote seed = annotto seed = achote seed = achuete seed = atsuete seed = bija = bijol = roucou Notes: Annatto seeds don't have a lot of flavor, but they impart a rich yellowish-orange color to stews and sauces. Look for the seeds, either whole or ground, in Latin American or Caribbean markets. To extract the color, steep the seeds in boiling water for about 20 minutes, then discard the seeds. Substitutes: yellow food coloring OR hot paprika OR equal parts turmeric and paprika

annotto seed See annatto seed.

atsuete seed See annatto seed.

bija See annatto seed.

bijol See annatto seed.

cayenne pepper = ground red pepper = red pepper Pronunciation: ki-YEN Notes: Dried cayenne peppers are sold either whole, crushed (called red pepper flakes), or ground into a powder called cayenne pepper. Cayenne pepper is fairly hot and has a smoky flavor. Substitutes: red chile powder (don't confuse with chili powder, a mixed seasoning) OR paprika (milder) OR red pepper flakes OR chili powder (contains other spices)

chile powder See red chile powder.

ground red pepper See cayenne pepper.

New Mexican red chile powder See red chile powder.

palillo Substitutes: turmeric (use half as much)

pizza pepper See red pepper flakes.

red chile powder = chile powder = New Mexican red chile powder Notes: Red chile powder is made from hot red chiles that have been dried and ground. Don't confuse chile powder with chili powder, a mixed spice for making chili. Substitutes: cayenne pepper OR paprika (milder) OR chile oil

red pepper See cayenne pepper.

red pepper flakes = crushed red pepper = pizza pepper Notes: These are dried cayenne peppers that have been crushed. They're often sprinkled on pizza to add heat. Substitutes: cayenne pepper (use less) OR chili paste (use twice as much)

roucou See annatto seed.

Indian Spices

ajwain = ajwain seed = carom seed = bishop's weed = ajowan = ajowan seed = ajwon = ajwan Pronunciation: AHJ-a-wahn Notes: These look like small caraway seeds, but they taste like a pungent version of thyme. Indian cooks like to sprinkle them on breads. Look for them in Indian markets. Substitutes: dried thyme (use more) OR cumin OR caraway

ajowan (seed) See ajwain.

amchoor = amchur = umchoor = green mango powder = aamchur = amchor = dried green mango = dried mango powder Notes: This is made from sun-dried mangoes, and it's used as a souring agent or to tenderize meats. Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores carry it. Substitutes: lemon juice OR lime juice OR tamarind OR chopped fresh mango (use more) OR chopped fresh papaya (use more)

amchur See amchoor.

asafetida [ah-sah-FEH-teh-dah] = asafoetida powder = asafoetida = hing = devil's dung = ferula = foetida = food of the gods = heeng = imguva This powdered gum resin imparts a very strong onion-garlic flavor to Indian dishes. Use it sparingly—a little goes a long way. Look for it in Indian or health food stores or in the spice section of larger supermarkets. Substitutes: omit it from the recipe OR GARLIC

POWDER OR ONION POWDER

asfetida See asafetida (powder).

bishop's weed See ajwain.

black cardamom See brown cardamom.

black cumin seeds = royal cumin seeds = kala jeera = shahi jeera = saah jeera Pronunciation: KUH-min Notes: Indian cooks use this spice in many of their curries and tandoori dishes. It's darker and sweeter than ordinary cumin. To bring out its nutty flavor, it helps to toast the seeds briefly before using them. Substitutes: cumin (Not as sweet as black cumin.) OR nigella

black mustard seeds Notes: Indian cooks prefer these over the larger yellow mustard seeds that are more common in the west. Look for this in Indian markets or health food stores. Substitutes: brown mustard seeds (very close) OR yellow mustard seeds

black onion seeds See nigella.

brown cardamom = black cardamom Notes: Pods of this spice are sold in Indian markets. Some recipes call for the entire pod to be used, others call for the ground seeds. Don't confuse this with the more common (green) cardamom, which comes in round green or tan pods. Substitutes: cardamom

brown mustard seeds Notes: These are smaller and hotter than the yellow mustard seeds that most western cooks are familiar with. Look for this in Indian markets. Substitutes: black mustard seeds (very close) OR yellow mustard seeds

carom seed See ajwain.

curcuma = Indian saffron Substitutes: saffron

devil's dung See asafetida (powder).

fenugreek = fenugreek seeds = methi = halba Pronunciation: FEN-you-greek Notes: This adds an earthy flavor to curries, chutneys, and sauces. It's available as seeds or powder, and you can usually find it in Indian and Middle Eastern markets. If it's not available, just leave it out of the recipe.

ferula See asafetida (powder).

foetida See asafetida (powder).

food of the gods See asafetida (powder).

habasoda See nigella.

halba See fenugreek.

heeng See asafetida (powder).

hing (powder) See asafetida (powder).

imguva See asafetida (powder).

Indian saffron See curcuma.

kala jeera See black cumin seeds.

kalonji See nigella.

ketza See nigella.

methi See fenugreek.

nigella = black onion seeds = kalonji = calonji = habasoda = ketza = black caraway Pronunciation: ni-JELL-uh Notes: This has a subtle flavor that's often used to enhance vegetable dishes. To bring out the flavor, it helps to toast the seeds briefly before using them. Substitutes: cumin seeds OR sesame seeds OR oregano

pomegranate seeds = anardana Notes: Bits of pomegranate pulp remain on the seeds as they dry, so they're a bit sticky and serve as a souring agent in Indian cuisine. The seeds also come ground.

royal cumin seeds See black cumin seeds.

shahi jeera See black cumin seeds.

white poppy seeds = kas-kas Notes: Indian cooks use these as a thickener in their curries and as a filling in baked goods. Substitutes: poppy seeds (black)

Middle Eastern Spices

Aleppo pepper = Near Eastern pepper Pronunciation: uh-LEP-oh Substitutes: Four parts sweet paprika plus one part cayenne pepper.

mahlab = mahlepi = mahleb (ground kernels of cherry stones) Where to find: Middle Eastern grocery stores Substitutes: Chinese almonds, ground OR grind together: 1 2" stick of cinnamon + 3 cloves + 1 bay leaf (Source: Von Welanetz Guide to Ethnic Ingredients) OR ground fennel seeds OR cardamom.

sumac berries = ghora angur Shopping hints: Look for this in Middle Eastern markets. Crushed dried sumac is called somagh. Substitutes: lemon zest + salt OR (in salads) lemon juice OR (in salads) vinegar

African Herb & Spice Mixes

berbere = Ethiopian spice mix To make your own: See the RecipeSource.com posting for Berbere. Substitutes: cayenne pepper

ras el hanout Notes: A traditional Moroccan spice mix, the name means "head of the shop," suggesting that it was the master of the spice shop who prepared this complex blend. It's often cooked with rice and couscous dishes. Look for it in Middle Eastern markets or African markets. To make your own: Grind together 4 teaspoons each cumin seed and ground ginger, 5 teaspoons coriander seeds, 2 tablespoons each black peppercorns and ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 16 whole cloves, and 20 allspice berries (adapted from a recipe in Paula Wolfert's World of Food.

American Herb & Spice Mixes

apple pie spice To make your own: 4 parts cinnamon + 2 parts nutmeg + 1 part cardamom, all ground

Cajun spice mix = Cajun seasoning mix To make your own: See the Cajun Spice Mix posting on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: creole spice mix

celery salt Substitutes: ground celery seed + salt OR ground celery seed OR Beau Monde seasoning OR Bon Appetit seasoning

chili powder To make your own: See the Chili Powder recipe posted on SOAR. Substitutes: chili seasoning (not as hot) OR paprika Notes: Don't confuse chili powder, a spice blend, with chile powder, a close relative of cayenne.

chili seasoning Substitutes: 2 parts chili powder + 1 part paprika OR chili powder

crab boil = shrimp spice To make your own: Tie the following spices in a muslin bag or in cheesecloth: 3 bay leaves, a small piece of dried ginger, and 1 teaspoon each of black peppercorns, mustard seeds, dill seeds, coriander seeds, whole cloves, and whole allspice. (Recipe taken from Polly Clingerman's excellent Kitchen Companion. Please see my sources.) Substitutes: Old Bay Seasoning OR pickling spice Links: See the recipe for Crab Boil & Fish Seasoning (American) posted on RecipeSource.com.

creole spice mix = creole seasoning mix Substitutes: Cajun spice mix

lemon pepper Substitutes: Combine lemon zest, black pepper, and a bit of salt.

Old Bay seasoning Notes: This is a mixture that combines celery seed, black pepper, salt, paprika, mustard seed, red pepper, bay leaves, cloves, allspice, ginger, mace, cardamom, and cinnamon. To make your own: See the recipe for Old Bay seasoning posted on RecipeSource.com.

onion salt Substitutes: salt + onion OR Beau Monde seasoning

onion soup mix To make your own: A 1 3/8 ounce package = 1/4 C instant minced onion + 2 tablespoons bouillon + 1/2 teaspoon onion powder (In uncooked recipes, refrigerate a little longer than usual. Recipe from the Cookbooks On/Line Recipe Database)

pickling spice To make your own: Combine 1/4 C each mustard seeds, dill seeds, and coriander seeds, 2 tablespoons each crushed chili peppers and bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon each celery seeds and white peppercorns. (Adapted from a recipe in Polly Clingerman's excellent Kitchen Companion. Please see my sources.)

pizza spice = pizza pepper Substitutes: Italian seasoning

poultry seasoning To make your own: Combine equal parts dried sage, thyme, and marjoram or oregano.

pumpkin pie spice To make your own: Combine 4 parts cinnamon + 2 parts ginger + 1 part allspice + 1 part nutmeg, all ground OR equal parts cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, mace, and cloves, all ground

seasoned salt To make your own: Combine 1 C salt, 2 1/2 teaspoons paprika, 2 teaspoons dry mustard, 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, and 1/2 teaspoon onion powder. (Recipe taken from Polly Clingerman's excellent Kitchen Companion. Please see my sources.)

shrimp spice

Spike Substitutes: seasoned salt OR parsley OR herbs

Asian Herb & Spice Mixes

basa genep To make your own: See the Basa Genep posting on RecipeSource.com.

Chinese five-spice powder = five-spice powder = five-fragrance powder = five heavenly spices = five perfumes = five-flavored powder Notes: Don't confuse this with panch phoron, a Bengali spice mix that's sometimes called "five spice." To make your own: Combine equal parts Szechwan (or black) pepper, star anise (or anise), cinnamon, cloves, and fennel, all ground Links: For a more detailed recipe, visit the Five Spice Powder posting on RecipeSource.com.

five-fragrance powder

five-spice See: 1. Chinese five-spice powder 2. panch phoron

furikake Notes: This Japanese salt substitute combines black and white sesame seeds, nori, red shiso leaves, and additional flavorings.

Hunan spices To make your own: See the Hunan Blended Spices posting on RecipeSource.com.

sesame salt = gomashio = goma shio = gomasio To make your own: Toast 1 cup sesame seeds, grind with a mortar and pestle, then add 1/4 cup salt. See also the Korean Sesame Salt recipe posted on RecipeSource.com.

shichimi togarashi Pronunciation: shee-CHEE-mee toh-guh-RAH-shee Notes: Shichimi togarashi is a mix of seven spices that's often sprinkled on soups and noodles. To make your own: Combine equal parts szechuan peppercorns, sesame seed, hemp seed, poppy seed, dried orange peel, crushed roasted nori, and crushed dried hot chile peppers. Substitutes: nanami togarashi

Sichuan pepper salt

Szechuan pepper salt = Sichuan pepper salt To make your own: See the Chinese Salt and Pepper Recipe posted on RecipeSource.com.

togarashi Pronunciation: toh-guh-RAH-shee To make your own: See the Togarashi Recipe posted on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: cayenne pepper OR crushed red chile peppers

European Herb & Spice Mixes

Beau Monde seasoning Notes: This is a seasoning mix manufactured by Spices Islands that combines salt, onion, and celery flavors. Substitutes: equal parts onion powder and celery salt OR Bon Appetit seasoning (similar, but also hard to find) OR onion salt OR celery salt OR Penzey's English Prime Rib Rub

bouquet garni Pronunciation: boo-KAY gahr-NEE To make your own: Tie together with a string or wrap securely in cheesecloth: 4 sprigs fresh parsley or chervil, 1 sprig fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf. Variations if you're using cheesecloth: Add one or more of the following: orange peel, cloves, peppercorns, marjoram, fennel leaves, celery leaves Substitutes: equal parts parsley, thyme, and crushed bay leaf OR equal parts chervil, thyme, and crushed bay leaf OR equal parts basil, marjoram, and summer savory

British mixed spice

epices Parisiennes

fines herbes Pronunciation: feen-ZAIRB Substitutes: equal parts chervil, tarragon, chives, and parsley OR equal parts chervil and chives (For more variations, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Fines Herbes--Homemade page.)

Greek seasoning Shopping hints: Cavender's is a popular brand. To make your own: See the recipe for Greek Seasoning posted on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: equal parts rosemary and paprika

herbes de Provence Pronunciation: AIRB duh proh- VAHNS Notes: Dried is an acceptable substitute for fresh. To make your own: Combine four parts thyme plus four parts summer savory, two parts lavender, and one part rosemary.

Italian seasoning Substitutes: equal parts basil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme. For a more elaborate recipe, consult the Italian Seasoning posting on RecipeSource.com.

mixed spice = British mixed spice = pudding spice To make your own: Grind together 1 small cinnamon stick and 1 tablespoon each cloves, mace, ground nutmeg, coriander seeds, and allspice berries Substitutes: pumpkin pie spice OR allspice

mulling spice mix To make your own: See the recipe for Apple Mulling Spice Mix posted by Veggies Unite!

pudding spice

quatre epices (épices) = epices Parisiennes To make your own: Combine 1 part ground nutmeg + 1 part ground ginger + 1 part ground cloves + 2 parts ground white pepper Substitutes: Chinese five-spice powder (especially in pates) OR nutmeg

spaghetti sauce seasoning mix To make your own: See the RecipeSource.com posting Homemade Spaghetti Seasoning Mix

Hispanic Herb & Spice Mixes

menudo mix = menudo spices Notes: Menudo is a Mexican soup made with tripe and hominy. This is the seasoning mix that helps it go down. To make your own: Combine two parts oregano, two parts onion flakes, one part coriander seed, one part cumin, and one part crushed red chili pepper.

taco seasoning To make your own: To make enough for 1 pound of beef, combine 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, 1/4 teaspoon each pepper, cumin, and oregano, and a pinch of crushed red pepper. (Recipe taken from Polly Clingerman's excellent Kitchen Companion. Please see my sources.) See also the Taco Seasoning recipe posted on Recipesource.com.

Indian Herb & Spice Mixes

chat masala = chaat masala To make your own: Roast in a pan one tablespoon coriander seeds and two tablespoons cumin seeds, then grind them along with two tablespoons black peppercorns, one tablespoon crushed dried red chile peppers, one tablespoon amchoor powder, and one tablespoon salt. Substitutes: garam masala

curry powder To make your own: Combine equal parts ground coriander, ground cumin, ground pepper, turmeric, and ground ginger OR 4 parts ground coriander + 2 parts ground cumin + 2 parts ground tumeric + 1 part ground ginger (For more variations, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Curry--Ingredients page, or the recipe for Curry Powder posted on RecipeSource.com.)

five-spice See: 1. Chinese five-spice powder 2. panch phoron

garam masala = Indian sweet spice mix = sweet spice mix Notes: You can buy this either whole or ground. Durban is a well-regarded brand. To make your own: 2 parts ground cardamom + 5 parts ground coriander + 4 parts ground cumin + 2 parts ground black pepper + 1 part ground cloves + 1 part ground cinnamon + 1 part ground nutmeg (Adapted from a recipe in Substituting Ingredients by Becky Sue Epstein and Hilary Dole Klein. See my sources.) or see the recipe for Garam Masala posted on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: equals parts cumin, pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, all ground OR curry powder (spicier, different flavor)

Indian sweet spice mix

masala Notes: This is the catch-all Hindi term for a spice mixture. Popular masalas include garam masala, chat masala, and sambar masala.

panch phoron = panch pharon = panchphoran = five spice Notes: This is a Bengali spice mix that combines aniseed, cumin, fenugreek, mustard and nigella. Don't confuse it with Chinese five spice powder, which is completely different. Substitutes: garam masala OR curry powder

sweet spice mix

tandoori seasoning To make your own: See the Tandoori Rub posting on RecipeSource.com.

Middle Eastern Herb & Spice Mixes

baharat Notes: This is mixture of ginger, rose buds, and numerous spices. It's often used to season meats.

chemen Shopping hints: Look for this in Middle Eastern markets. Substitutes: Combine fenugreek, garlic, and crushed red pepper.

hawaij = hawaiij To make your own: See the recipe for Hawaiij posted on RecipeSource.com. Substitutes: Garam Masala

zahter = zaatar = zatar Pronunciation: ZAT-ahr To make your own: See the recipe for Zaatar posted on RecipeCottage.com. Substitutes: Combine hyssop, sumac berries, and roasted sesame seeds OR combine sumac, thyme, marjoram, salt, and sesame seeds

Seeds

The category "seeds" includes not just the familiar sunflower and pumpkin seeds, but also legumes, nuts, and grains, as well as many spices.

Varieties:

egusi seeds = agushi seeds = agushie seeds = agusi seeds Pronunciation: eh-GOO-see Notes: West Africans grind these melon seeds into a meal, which they use to thicken and flavor stews. Substitutes: pine nuts OR pumpkin seeds OR ogbono OR cornstarch (if used as a thickener)

ehuru seeds Pronunciation: EH-hoo-roo Notes: Look for these in African markets.

flax seed = flaxseed Notes: This is a good source of valuable omega-3 fatty acids.

grains

hemp seed = hemp seed nut Notes: Hemp seeds are a terrific source of protein and other nutrients. Hemp devotees claim that the seeds are as versatile as soybeans, and that they can be made into oil, milk, tofu, and many other goods. Look for the seeds (shelled of their hard green husks) in health foods stores.

jackfruit seed Notes: Jackfruits are immense and some contain hundreds of nutritious seeds, which resemble chestnuts. Before eating the seeds, boil them for about five minutes, then roast them. Substitutes: breadnut seeds OR chestnuts

legumes

lotus seeds Notes: Look for fresh and dried lotus seeds in Asian markets. Substitutes: blanched almonds

nuts

ogbono = apon = agbono Pronunciation: OH-bow-noh Notes: You can buy these seeds either whole or ground at African markets. Nigerians grind them and use them to thicken stews, to which they add a distinctive flavor and a slimy texture. Substitutes: okra (also imparts a slimy texture) OR file gumbo OR egusi seeds OR baobab leaves

pepitas See pumpkin seeds.

psyllium seeds = isabgul seeds

pumpkin seeds Notes: Pumpkin seeds are terrific snacks. Unlike sunflower seeds, they're usually eaten whole, though hulled pumpkin seeds, called pepitas, are commonly used in Mexican dishes. To roast fresh pumpkin seeds, wash them and blot them dry, then toss them with salt and melted butter or margarine and bake on a cookie sheet in a 325° oven for about 15 minutes. To dry fresh seeds, wash and blot them dry as before, but bake them in a warm (150°) oven for 1 to 2 hours. Substitutes: squash seeds OR sesame seeds OR sunflower seeds

squash seeds Notes: The seeds of various squashes, like pumpkin and acorn squash, make terrific snacks. To prepare, wash the seeds, then blot them dry, and mix them with salt and butter. Spread the seeds on a baking tray and bake them in a preheated 325° oven for about 15 minutes. Substitutes: pumpkin seeds OR sesame seeds OR sunflower seeds

sunflower seeds Notes: Sunflower seeds are nutritious snacks. They're often sold in their shells, which you're supposed to crack open in your teeth and spit out after you've eaten the kernel within. Shelled sunflower seeds are also available for the more fastidious, and for cooks who want to add the seeds to breads, salads, casseroles, and trail mixes. Substitutes: pumpkin seeds OR peanuts (for snacking) OR pine nuts

uda seeds Pronunciation: OO-duh Notes: Look for these in African markets.

watermelon seeds = bizeer batehh Notes: These are much larger than the black watermelon seeds that we're familiar with. They're usually cracked open and eaten like sunflower seeds. Look for them in Middle Eastern markets. Substitutes: pumpkin seeds OR sunflower seeds

Extracts and Flavoring Oils

almond extract Notes: This is made with almond oil and alcohol, and it's especially good in cookies and cakes. It's potent, so recipes usually call for no more than a teaspoon. Bitter almond extract is even stronger. Substitutes: vanilla extract (use a bit more) OR almond liqueur (use 4-8 times as much) OR bitter almond oil (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

anise extract Pronunciation: ANN-us Notes: This tastes like licorice, and it's typically used to flavor cakes and cookies. Substitutes: anise oil (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.) OR anise-flavored liqueur (Substitute 1 or 2 tablespoons liqueur for

each teaspoon of anise extract) OR aniseed (Substitute 2 teaspoons ground aniseed for each teaspoon of anise extract.) OR vanilla extract

anise oil Notes: This imparts a licorice flavor to foods. Look for it near the spices in large supermarkets or in candy supply stores or pharmacies. You can store flavoring oils indefinitely in a cool, dark place. Substitutes: anise extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

brandy extract Notes: People use this to impart the flavor of brandy without the alcohol. Though brandy extracts are made with alcohol, such a small amount is needed in any recipe that the end product is virtually non-alcoholic. Substitutes: brandy (1 tablespoon brandy extract = 5 tablespoons brandy) OR vanilla extract OR rum extract

cherry flavoring Substitutes: juice from a jar of maraschino cherries plus some vanilla extract

cinnamon extract Substitutes: cinnamon oil (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

cinnamon oil Notes: This is sometimes used as a home remedy for toothaches, but cooks also use it to make hard candies and cinnamon apples. Substitutes: cinnamon extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

extracts = flavoring extracts = liquid flavor essences Notes: Extracts are concentrated flavoring agents. Some, like beef extract or wine essence, are made by reducing a liquid until it's a syrup. Others, like vanilla and peppermint extract, are made by dissolving a spice or flavoring oil in alcohol. Store extracts in a cool, dark place, and keep the lids screwed on tight. Properly stored, they'll keep for a long time, though the flavor will gradually lose potency. Substitutes:

flavoring oil (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

flavoring oils = essential oils = flavored oils = flavor oils Notes: These are highly concentrated essences of a wide variety of flavors, like cinnamon, anise, bitter almonds, and peppermint. They're often used to make hard candies and lip glosses, but they also make excellent substitutes for extracts--just use much less than the recipe calls for. Look for flavoring oils near the spices in large supermarkets or in candy supply stores or pharmacies. You can store them indefinitely in a cool, dark place. Substitutes: extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

ginger juice Notes: Cooks use this when they want the flavor, but not the bulk, of fresh ginger. To make your own: Put minced, chopped, or coarsely grated ginger in a garlic press and squeeze out the juice. (One ounce of ginger yields two teaspoons juice.)

imitation vanilla extract = artificial vanilla extract = imitation vanilla flavor = artificial vanilla flavor = imitation vanilla flavoring = artificial vanilla flavoring = vanilla essence = vanilla flavoring Notes: This inexpensive substitute for pure vanilla extract is made with synthetic vanillin and other flavorings. Many brands are quite good, since chemists know how to produce an exact copy of natural vanillin, the dominant flavor in vanilla. The problem is that vanillin isn't the only flavor component in vanilla, so even the best imitation vanilla extracts aren't quite as full-flavored and complex as the real deal. Food gurus are always saying that cooks should never, ever use imitation vanilla extract, but at least one taste test has

shown that many people prefer a high quality imitation vanilla extract to pure extract. Avoid imitation vanilla from Mexico--it may contain a toxic food additive. Substitutes: vanilla extract (more expensive, more complex flavor) OR vanilla powder (Some sources suggest substituting this measure for measure. Others suggest using half as powder as extract.)

kewra essence = kewra oil = attar of kewra = kewra ittar Notes: This concentrated oil is made from pandanus flowers, and it's used to flavor meats, desserts, and beverages in India and Southeast Asia. Look for tiny bottles of it in Indian and Asian markets. Don't confuse it with kewra water, which isn't nearly as potent. Substitutes: kewra water (use more) OR rose water (use more)

kewra water = screwpine essence = pandan essence Notes: This is an extract that's distilled from pandanus flowers, and used to flavor meats, drinks, and desserts in India and Southeast Asia. Some brands of kewra water are artificially flavored, so check the label. Substitutes: kewra essence (more concentrated, so use less) OR rose water

lemon extract Notes: This is often used in cakes, muffins, frostings, and pies. To make your own: Chop the zest from one or two lemons and put it into a small, clean jar until the jar is 1/3 full. Fill the jar with vodka, making sure that the zest is completely immersed. Seal it with a tight-fitting lid, allow the mixture to steep for two weeks, then strain out the zest using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. The result won't be as strong as commercial extracts. Substitutes: lemon zest (1 teaspoon extract = 2 teaspoons zest) OR oil of lemon (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.) OR orange extract OR vanilla extract OR lemon-flavored liqueur (Substitute 1 or 2 tablespoons liqueur for each teaspoon of extract)

liquid smoke Notes: This is a very potent seasoning that imparts a smoky flavor to meat, fish, and vegetarian mock meat products. A little goes a long way. Substitutes: smoked ham hocks (in a stew or sauce) OR omit from recipe OR chipotle pepper (hotter) OR bacon

oil of bitter almonds = almond oil Notes: This is a very potent flavoring oil that's sold in small bottles and measured by the drop. Natural bitter almond oil isn't available in the United States since it's slightly toxic, but you can buy a synthetic version in bakers' supply shops or through mail order companies. Don't confuse this with the mildly flavored almond oil that's used in savory dishes. Substitutes: almond extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

oil of lemon Notes: This comes from lemon peels, and it's so concentrated that it's usually measured by the drop. Don't confuse it with lemon extract, which is diluted with alcohol and not nearly as concentrated as the oil. Recipes for hard candies usually call for a flavoring oil rather than an extract, since extracts tend to evaporate when heated. Substitutes: lemon extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

oil of orange Notes: This comes from orange peels, and is so concentrated that it's usually measured by the drop. Don't confuse it with orange extract, which is diluted with alcohol and not nearly as concentrated as the oil. Recipes for hard candies usually call for a flavoring oil rather than an extract, since extracts tend to evaporate when heated. Substitutes: orange extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged

cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

orange extract Notes: This is often used to make frostings, cakes, and liqueurs. To make your own: Chop the zest from an orange and put it into a small, clean jar until the jar is 1/3 full. Fill the jar with vodka, making sure that the zest is completely immersed. Seal it with a tight-fitting lid, allow the mixture to steep for two weeks, then strain out the zest using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. The result won't be as strong as commercial extracts. Substitutes: Use orange juice plus minced orange zest, then reduce another liquid in the recipe to compensate for the orange juice. OR rum extract OR vanilla extract OR orange liqueur (1 teaspoon orange extract = 1 tablespoon orange liqueur)

orange flower water = orange blossom water = zhaar Notes: This is distilled from bitter orange blossoms, and it's used to flavor drinks, salads, and desserts. Look for it in Middle Eastern markets and specialty shops. Substitutes: rose water OR vanilla extract OR orange extract OR orange-flavored liqueur OR orange zest

peppermint extract Notes: This is used to make candy canes, mints, and peppermint patties. Substitutes: peppermint oil (One part flavoring oil is roughly equivalent to four parts extract, but this may vary according to the products used. To be safe, begin by substituting 1/8 teaspoon of oil per teaspoon of extract, then add more drops of oil until you're satisfied with the flavor.) OR creme de menthe (use much more) OR peppermint schnapps (Substitute 1 or 2 tablespoons schnapps for each teaspoon of extract) OR vanilla extract (use more)

peppermint oil Notes: All you need is a drop or two for most recipes. Recipes for hard candies usually call for a flavoring oil rather than an extract, since extracts tend to evaporate when heated. Substitutes: wintergreen oil OR anise oil OR peppermint extract (Extracts evaporate easily, and therefore can't withstand high heat or prolonged cooking. Four units of extract is roughly equivalent to one unit of flavoring oil, but this may vary according to the products used. Begin by substituting two units of extract per unit of flavoring oil, then add more extract until you're satisfied with the flavor.)

rose essence Notes: This is similar to rose water, only it's far more concentrated. Indian cooks use it to flavor beverages and desserts. Substitutes: rose syrup OR rose water (1 part rose essence = 4-8 parts rose water) OR saffron (different flavor)

rose syrup = rose-scented syrup Notes: This is used in the Middle East, India, Persia, and Southeast Asia to flavor desserts and beverages. Substitutes: rose essence OR rose water

rose water = rosewater = ma ward Notes: This is distilled from rose petals, and used in the Middle East, North Africa, and India to flavor desserts. Don't confuse this with rose essence, which is more concentrated. Substitutes: orange flower water OR rose syrup (use just a few drops) OR rose essence (use just a few drops) OR almond extract (use less) OR vanilla extract (use less) OR kewra water

rum extract Notes: This is used to impart the flavor of rum without the alcohol. Though rum extracts are made with alcohol, such a small amount is needed in any recipe that the end product is virtually non-alcoholic. If you're a stickler, though, non-alcoholic rum extracts are also available, as are Passover rum extracts. Substitutes: rum (1 teaspoon rum extract = 3 tablespoons rum) OR orange extract (use less)

truffle oil Notes: This is a secret ingredient of many chefs, who use it to impart the earthy taste and aroma of truffles to their dishes. There are two varieties: the mild white truffle oil and the more pungent black truffle oil. Both are delicious sprinkled on pasta, but the black truffle oil is better suited to meats and heavy sauces while the white is the best choice for fish dishes, cream sauces, and vinaigrettes. If you're cooking with it, add it at the very end to prevent the flavor from dissipating. Truffle oil is expensive, but a little goes a long way. To make your own: Finely chop a very dry, fresh truffle, and place in a clean jar with enough olive oil to completely fill it. Allow the truffle to steep for a few days, then store the jar in the refrigerator. Substitutes: truffles OR truffles preserved in brandy

vanilla essence Notes: This has two meanings. In Britain, vanilla essence is the same as America's imitation vanilla extract. Elsewhere, vanilla essence may mean a highly concentrated and pricey form of pure vanilla extract.

vanilla extract = pure vanilla extract = natural vanilla extract Pronunciation: vah-NILL-uh Notes: Vanilla extract is made from vanilla beans that have been steeped in alcohol. It's widely used throughout the world to flavor desserts, like baked goods, ice cream, beverages, and custards, but some chefs use it as a secret ingredient in savory dishes as well. Pure extracts made with vanilla from the Bourbon Islands, which include Madagascar, is especially well-regarded. Mexican vanilla extract is also excellent, and even more potent, but it's sometimes adulterated with a dangerous food additive that's banned by the FDA. Look for vanilla extract among the baking supplies in your supermarket. To make your own: Cut two fresh (moist and pliable) vanilla beans into small pieces and put them in a small, clean jar. Pour vodka, brandy, or light rum into the jar until the vanilla is completely covered. Seal the jar with a tight-fitting lid, allow the mixture to steep for about at least a month, then strain out the beans using cheesecloth or a coffee filter. The result won't be as strong as commercial extracts, so use more. Substitutes: vanilla powder (use half as much) OR vanilla bean (Extract the flavor by scraping out the seeds and putting them and the vanilla pod into a liquid that's used in the recipe and let it simmer awhile.

When the liquid has been infused with vanilla flavor, remove the pod. One inch of fresh vanilla bean = one teaspoon extract. Use a longer piece of vanilla if it's not fresh.) OR imitation vanilla extract (This may be less potent than pure vanilla extract, so you may need to use more.) OR Kosher vanilla sugar (for Passover) OR vanilla-flavored liqueur (1 teaspoon extract = 1 tablespoon liqueur) OR almond liqueur (1 teaspoon extract = 1 tablespoon liqueur) OR rum (1 teaspoon extract = 1 tablespoon rum) OR almond extract (use less) OR peppermint extract (use 1/8 as much)

vanilla powder Notes: This alcohol-free powder is made from vanilla beans that have been dried and pulverized. Unlike vanilla extract, it doesn't evaporate when heated, so it's well suited to making custards and other cooked desserts. It's also good for making dry mixes and for sprinkling onto drinks and dishes. Some brands have sweeteners added. Look for it in larger supermarkets and specialty shops. Substitutes: vanilla extract (Some sources suggest substituting this measure for measure. Others suggest using twice as much extract as powder.) OR imitation vanilla extract (Some sources suggest substituting this measure for measure. Others suggest using twice as much extract as powder.)

wine essence = wine extract = wine syrup Notes: This is wine that's been reduced to a syrup, which de-alcoholizes it and allows it to be stored for a longer period of time. Professional chefs sometimes make this to use up half-empty bottles of wine that would otherwise go bad in a few days. The syrup can be used in sauces or other dishes that call for wine. To make your own: Reduce wine by slowly simmering it in a non-reactive pan (i.e., avoid aluminum or iron) to a thick, syrupy consistency, then refrigerate it and use small amounts to flavor dishes. One bottle of wine makes about one cup.

Salt

salt = sodium chloride Notes: Most recipes that call for salt are referring to table salt, which has additives like iodine (to prevent a thyroid disease), and an anti-caking agent so the salt won't get lumpy in humid weather. Salt connoisseurs, though, often prefer to use Kosher salt for cooking, and sea salt for table use. They claim that both have a softer flavor than table salt. Exotic salts include the expensive French and Hawaiian sea salts, the smoky, sulfuric Indian black salt, and the intensely salty Korean bamboo salt. Specialized salts include pickling salt, which is free of the additives that turn pickles dark and the pickling liquid cloudy, and rock salt, used primarily to de-ice driveways and make ice cream.

Tips:

Adding salt to water will raise the temperature at which it boils and lower the temperature at which it freezes.

Though we need some salt in our diet, most Americans consume much more than necessary. Too much salt can lead to high blood pressure.

Salt is a terrific flavor enhancer, helping to reduce bitterness and acidity, and bringing out other flavors in the food.

Adding salt to bread dough controls the action of the yeast and improves the flavor. Bread made without salt will have a coarser texture and a blander flavor than bread made with salt.

Try sprinkling salt on citrus fruit, melons, tomatoes, and even wine to enhance flavor.

Adding a little salt balances the flavor of sweets like cakes, cookies, and candies. Boiling eggs in salted water makes them easier to peel. Adding a pinch of salt (preferably non-iodized) to cream or egg whites before

they're whipped increases their volume and serves as a stabilizer. Salt is a mineral, so it can be stored indefinitely without going stale. It won't

taste any fresher if you grind it with a salt mill. Salt has been used for millennia as a preservative for meats, fish, cheese, and

other foods. It works by absorbing moisture from the cells of bacteria and mold through osmosis, which kills them or leaves them unable to reproduce.

Salting slices of eggplants helps draw out the bitter juices. Sprinkling salt on meat before broiling or grilling it draws moisture from the

center, making it browner on the outside, but less juicy on the inside.

Substitutes: citrus zest (for seasoning) OR pepper (for seasoning) OR herbs (for seasoning) OR soy sauce (for seasoning) OR hatcho miso (especially in hearty soups and stews; 1 teaspoon salt = 2 tablespoons hatcho miso) OR salt substitute OR kelp powder OR omit (Reducing salt in a recipe reduces sodium, but doing so may impair flavor and, in the case of baked goods, texture. Since salt enhances flavorings, use more of them if you reduce salt in a recipe.) OR marinades (marinating meats enhances their flavor)

Varieties:

bamboo salt = parched salt = jukyom = jook yeom Notes: This is made by roasting sea salt in bamboo cylinders plugged with yellow mud. The salt absorbs minerals from the bamboo and mud, which in turn leach the salt of impurities. Look for plastic bags of it in Korean markets. Substitutes: sea salt

bay salt

black salt = kala namak = sanchal Notes: Look for this in Indian markets, either ground or in lumps. It's more tan than black, and has a very strong, sulfuric flavor. Substitutes: table salt

butter salt Notes: This salt has extremely fine grains. It's used to salt butter.

canning salt

coarse salt = coarsely-ground salt = coarse-grain salt = gros sel Notes: Most recipes calling for salt intend for you to use finely ground salt, though coarse salt is better for certain things, like making beds for oysters and salt crusts on meat or fish, or for lining baking dishes or the rims of margarita glasses. Many professional chefs like to cook with it because they can measure it more easily with their fingers. Kosher salt and sea salt often come coarsely ground.

fine salt = finely-ground salt = fine-grain salt = fin sel Notes: This is salt that's been ground into small grains. Most recipes calling for salt intend for you to use finely ground salt, though coarse salt is better for certain things, like making beds for oysters and salt crusts on meat or fish, or for lining baking dishes or the rims of margarita glasses. Table salt usually comes finely ground. Substitutes: coarse salt (Grind it using a salt mill, mortar & pestle, or rolling pin.)

cooking salt

curing salt = tinted curing mixture = TCM = Prague Powder #1 Notes: This is used to cure meats and fish. It's usually dyed pink so that it won't be mistaken for ordinary salt. It consists of 93.75% table salt and 6.25% sodium nitrate.

French sea salt = sel marin

This expensive French salt comes from sea water that's pooled into basins and then evaporated. Unlike most American sea salts, it's unrefined, so it retains more of the minerals that naturally occur in seawater. There are several varieties. Gray salt = grey salt = sel gris gets its color from the clay lining the basins. La fleur de sel (the flower of the salt) is whiter, but has a similar flavor.

That trendy gourmets are willing to shell out $5 for a small packet of French sea salt drives chemists crazy, since almost all of it is just plain salt, sodium chloride, NaCl. Salt aficionados counter that French sea salt has a much softer and fresher flavor than ordinary table salt, and that the difference is worth it.

These salts comes either coarsely or finely ground. Since salt is an inorganic mineral, there's no point in grinding large crystals with a salt mill so they'll be "fresh." Salt, unlike pepper and spices, never goes stale. It's best to use these salts after the food is cooked, or their subtleties will be lost.

Substitutes: sea salt OR kosher salt OR sea vegetables (even richer in minerals)

Hawaiian salt = alaea salt = Hawaiian sea salt = 'alaea sea salt Notes: This unrefined sea salt gets its pinkish-brown color from Hawaiian clay, called 'alaea, which is rich in iron oxide. The clay also imparts a subtle flavor to the salt. The salt is expensive, and hard to find on the mainland. Substitutes: French sea salt OR sea salt OR kosher salt

iodized salt

kala namak

kosher salt Notes: This salt was developed for the preparation of kosher meats, but many cooks prefer it over table salt. It has coarser grains, so it's easier to use if you, like professional chefs, toss salt into pots with your fingers, measuring by touch. Most kosher salt is also flaked, giving each grain a larger surface area. This helps the salt adhere better, so it's great for lining margarita glasses, and for making a salt crust on meats or fish. Kosher salt also is preferred over table salt for canning and pickling. Like pickling salt, kosher salt is free of iodine, which can react adversely with certain foods. Some brands of kosher salt contain yellow prussiate of soda, an anti-caking agent, but unlike the anti-caking additive in table salt, it doesn't cloud pickling liquids. The only drawback to using kosher salt for pickling or canning is that the grains are coarser and flakier, and can't be packed as tightly into a measuring cup as pickling salt. This raises the risk that the salt won't be properly measured. To get around this problem, measure by weight instead of volume. With its large grains, kosher salt

isn't a good choice for baking. Look for boxes of it in the spice section of your supermarket. Substitutes: pickling salt OR Margarita salt OR table salt (smaller grains, use half as much; doesn't cling as well to food; iodized salt can cause pickles to cloud.)

Margarita salt Notes: This is used to salt the rims of Margarita glasses. To apply, fill a saucer with the salt, then moisten the rim of an empty glass with lime juice and dip it into the saucer. Substitutes: kosher salt OR sea salt OR table salt OR sugar (This is the preferred rim liner for fruit Margaritas.)

non-iodized salt

pickling salt = canning salt = canning and pickling salt Notes: This is similar to table salt, but lacks the iodine and anti-caking additives that turn pickles dark and the pickling liquid cloudy. Pickles made with table salt would still be good to eat, but they wouldn't look as appetizing. Pickling salt is available in large bags or boxes in supermarkets, but it's hard to find in cities. In addition to pickling or canning with it, you can also use pickling salt just as you would ordinary table salt, though without the anti-caking agents it may get lumpy if exposed to moisture. To prevent lumps, put a few grains of rice in your salt shaker. To get rid of lumps, spread the salt on a cookie sheet and bake in an oven. Don't substitute reduced-sodium salt for pickling salt when making pickles. Substitutes: kosher salt (Since it's not as dense as pickling salt, you'll need to use more, but how much more varies by brand. 1 cup + 2 tablespoons of Morton Kosher Salt = 1 cup Morton Canning & Pickling Salt.

For other brands, it's best to measure by weight rather than volume.) OR table salt (The iodine in table salt may turn your pickles dark, and the anti-caking agents may turn the pickling liquid cloudy.)

popcorn salt Notes: This table salt has very fine grains, which adhere better to popcorn, potato chips, and French fries. Substitutes: table salt

pretzel salt Notes: These opaque salt crystals are used to coat pretzels. Substitutes: kosher salt OR sesame seeds

rock salt = ice cream salt = halite = sidewalk salt = land salt Notes: This is the cheap, non-food grade salt that we throw onto icy walkways and use to make ice cream. It doesn't actually go into the ice cream, as some have learned the hard way, but rather into the wooden ice-filled tub that surrounds the bucket of ice cream. The salt lowers the freezing point of the ice, which causes it to melt. As it melts, it absorbs heat from the ice cream, helping it to freeze more quickly. Use a ratio of one part rock salt for every five parts of ice. If you're out of rock salt, other kinds of salt will also work, though you should use less since finer grains of salt can can be packed more densely into a cup than large chunks of rock salt. The biggest danger is that you'll use too much salt, which will make your ice cream freeze too fast and become crusty. When using salt other than rock salt, start with a modest amount and check the ice cream after you've churned it for ten minutes. If

the ice cream is just beginning to firm up, you have the right amount of salt. If it's not yet firming up, you need to add more salt. If it's crusty along the sides of the bucket, then you've added too much salt. Substitutes: kosher salt (more expensive) OR table salt (more expensive)

salt substitute Notes: Some salt substitutes are herbal blends, which enhance the flavor of food without salt. You can buy these in the spice section of your supermarket or make your own--the Internet abounds with recipes for homemade salt substitutes. Other commercial salt substitutes, like No Salt®, Salt Substitute®, Cardia®, and Lite Salt®, replace some or all of the sodium chloride (ordinary salt) with potassium chloride, which has a slightly bitter taste. These substitutes are sometimes recommended for people on sodium-restricted diets. It's recommended that you consult a physician before using these products, especially if you have diabetes or kidney disease, or if you're taking diuretics or potassium supplements, or if you're on a potassium restricted diet. Look for them in the spice section of your supermarket, or in pharmacies.

sea salt = bay salt

This salt comes from evaporated sea water, and contains minute amounts of magnesium, calcium, and other minerals. Since the government requires that salt sold for table use in the United States contain at least 97.5% pure salt, these minerals don't amount to much, though some pricey French sea salts have higher concentrations.

While tossing a teaspoon of sea salt into a half gallon of marinara sauce isn't going to have an appreciable effect on its nutritional value, some gourmets say that they can taste the difference and that sea salt has a cleaner, saltier flavor compared to table salt. Don't use sea salt for canning or pickling--the trace minerals may discolor the food. It's also not the best choice for baking--the grains

are too large.

Substitutes: kosher salt (cheaper) OR table salt (cheaper)

table salt = cooking salt = granular salt Notes: Varieties include iodized salt, which contains the flavorless additive potassium iodide to prevent goiter (an enlargement of the thyroid gland), and non-iodized salt. Some recipes call for non-iodized salt, since iodine can impart a bitter taste and adversely react with certain foods. For example, iodine darkens pickles and inhibits the bacterial fermentation needed to make sauerkraut. Table salt also contains small amounts of calcium silicate, an anti-caking agent, and dextrose, a stabilizer. The anti-caking agent in both iodized and non-iodized salt doesn't dissolve in water, so if you pickle or can with it, it will turn the liquid cloudy or else settle on the bottom of the jar. The preserved food will taste the same, mind you, but it won't look as appealing. This is more of a problem for pickles, which are immersed in lots of liquid, than for other canned goods. To prevent the cloudiness, use pickling salt, which contains no additives. Substitutes: Kosher salt (This is more flavorful, and great for cooking. Since it's less dense, grind it first or use up to twice as much.) OR sea salt (more expensive)

Sugars

baker's special

bar sugar

beet sugar

berry sugar

brown sugar See light brown sugar or dark brown sugar Substitutes: brown sugar substitute

cane sugar

caster sugar

castor sugar

Chinese sugar = Chinese rock sugar = rock sugar Notes: This includes yellow rock sugar = yellow lump sugar (pictured) or clear rock sugar. Substitutes: granulated sugar (sweeter; substitute 1 tablespoon for each Chinese sugar crystal)

cinnamon sugar To make your own: Mix together 7 parts granulated sugar and 1 part cinnamon.

coconut sugar

confectioner's sugar

custard powder Notes: Bird's is a popular brand. Look for this in British specialty markets. Substitutes: instant vanilla pudding mix (Substitute measure for measure)

dark brown sugar (1 C = 6 ounces) Substitutes: 1 C light brown sugar + 1 tablespoon molasses OR 1 C granulated sugar + 2 tablespoons molasses

date sugar = dehydrated date pieces Substitutes: granulated sugar (not as nutritious)

dehydrated date pieces

dehydrated sugar cane juice

demerara sugar = demerera sugar Substitutes: turbinado sugar OR granulated sugar OR light brown sugar

doughnut sugar = snow sugar = non-melting sugar Notes: This is similar to powdered sugar, only it doesn't melt as easily. Commercial bakers use this on doughnuts and other pastries.

extra-fine granulated sugar

fine granulated sugar

fructose = granulated fructose = fruit sugar = levulose Pronunciation: FROOK-tose Notes: A teaspoon of granulated fructose has about the same number of calories as a teaspoon of granulated sugar, but fructose is roughly twice as sweet. Many diabetics use it since it doesn't affect their blood sugar as dramatically as granulated sugar. Look for it among the dietary foods or among the sugars in your supermarket. Substitutes: honey (not as sweet) OR granulated sugar (sugar isn't as sweet as fructose--use 3 parts sugar to replace 2 parts fructose; sugar makes product drier and lighter)

fruit sugar

genuine maltose

golden brown sugar See light brown sugar.

granulated fructose

granulated sugar = sugar = white sugar = sucrose = refined sugar = table sugar

Equivalents: 1 pound = 2 1/3 Cups

Varieties: Regular sugar = fine granulated sugar = table sugar = standard granulated sugar = extra-fine granulated sugar is the standard table sugar we're all familiar with. Superfine sugar = ultrafine sugar = bar sugar = instant dissolving sugar = berry sugar = castor sugar = caster sugar dissolves more quickly, and is recommended for sweetening beverages, and for making meringues, cakes, soufflés, and mousses. To make your own, grind standard granulated sugar in a food processor or blender for about a minute. Baker's special has a grain size between standard granulated and superfine. Bakers use it in cakes because the fine granules improve the texture. Sanding sugar has larger granules that sparkle when spinkled on baked goods and candies. Coarse sugar has a larger grain size than regular granulated sugar. It tends not to change color or break down at high temperatures. It's similar to (and often mistaken for)

sanding sugar. colored sugar Beet sugar is derived from sugar beets, while cane sugar is derived from sugar cane. Both beet and cane sugars are 99.95% sucrose, but many bakers claim that the remaining .05% of trace minerals and proteins makes a difference, and that cane sugar performs better. Some cane sugar is processed using a by-product of animal bones, so some vegetarians prefer beet sugar to cane. Some manufacturers don't specify whether their product is beet sugar or cane sugar. Substitutes:

all-purpose:

reduce (Up to one-third of the sugar in most recipes can be eliminated without replacement This will reduce calories in a recipe, but the flavor will be less sweet; cakes and quick breads will be paler, tougher, and drier; cookies will be tougher, paler, and smaller. Reducing sugar in yeast breads makes loaves less tender, less moist, and less brown. Don't reduce sugar when making pickles--sugar might play a role in retarding spoilage. Reducing sugar in ice cream will give it a coarser texture. Don't reduce sugar when making candy) OR

turbinado sugar (Substitute one cup turbinado sugar for each cup granulated sugar.) OR

date sugar (Substitute one cup date sugar for each cup granulated sugar.) OR Sucanat (Substitute one cup sucanat for each cup granulated sugar.) OR light brown sugar (Substitute one cup firmly packed brown sugar for every cup of

granulated sugar. This substitution affects the texture and reduces the volume of baked goods; for example, it makes cookies darker and chewier. Don't make this substitution in white or sponge cakes.) OR

honey (Warning: Don't feed honey to babies who are less than one year old--it may cause infant botulism. Substitute 3/4 cup honey for each cup of granulated syrup called for in recipe, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup and add 1/4 teaspoon baking soda (to neutralized the acid in the honey). Reduce oven temperature by 25 degrees--substituting honey for sugar alters the flavor and tends to make baked goods moister, chewier and darker.) OR

fructose (Fructose sometimes doesn't work well in recipes for baked goods. If you wish to experiment, substitute 2/3 cup granulated fructose for every cup of granulated sugar. Baking with fructose tends to make baked goods moister and darker.) OR

artificial sweeteners (For equivalencies, visit the Illinois Cooperative Extension Service's Sugar Substitutes Table of Equivalency page.)

for baking:

powdered milk (Substitute up to 1/4 of the granulated sugar in the recipe with powdered milk.) OR

maple syrup (Substitute 3/4 cup maple syrup plus 1/4 teaspoon baking soda for each cup of granulated sugar, and reduce another liquid in the recipe by 3 tablespoons.) OR maple sugar OR

barley malt syrup (Substitute 3/4 cup barley malt syrup for each cup of granulated syrup called for in recipe, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup.) OR

powdered sugar (Substitute 1 3/4 cup packed powdered sugar for each cup of granulated sugar called for in recipe. This substitution tends to make cookies less crispy.) OR

corn syrup (Don't replace more than half of sugar in any recipe with corn syrup. Substitute 1 1/2 cups corn syrup for each cup granulated sugar, since corn syrup isn't as sweet as sugar, then reduce a liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup. Will affect appearance and flavor slightly.) OR

rice syrup (Substitute 1 3/4 cup rice syrup for each cup of granulated syrup called for in recipe, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup.) OR

molasses (Substitute 1 1/3 cup molasses plus 1 teaspoon baking soda for one cup of granulated sugar, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/3 cup and reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees. This substitution will impart a strong molasses flavor to the product. Replace no more than half of the sugar in the recipe with molasses.)

In hot cereals:

brown sugar OR maple syrup OR maple sugar OR brown rice syrup (Substitute 1 cup rice syrup for every cup of white granulated

sugar) OR barley malt syrup OR molasses OR fruit juice (Use fruit juice concentrates for greater sweetening power.) OR rice syrup (Substitute 1 3/4 cup rice syrup for each cup of granulated syrup called

for in recipe, then reduce another liquid in the recipe by 1/4 cup.)

Links: For tips on how to reduce sugar in recipes, visit Preparing Healthy Food: How to Modify a Recipe. See also the Sweeteners for Vegans posting on RecipeSource.com, and the North Dakota State University Extension Service's Sweetener Substitutions page. For tips on cooking and baking with artificial sweeteners, visit Sweet'n Low's FAQ page.

granulated sugar cane juice

icing sugar

instant dissolving sugar

invert sugar Notes: This is used by commercial bakers to keep baked goods moist or by candy makers to make more finely grained candies. Look for it in candy making supply shops.

jaggery Pronunciation: JAG-uh-ree Notes: This is a tan, unrefined sugar that is common in India. It's made from the sap of palm trees or sugar cane and is much more flavorful than granulated sugar. It's often sold in solid cakes, but it should crumble when you squeeze it. Look for it in Indian markets. Substitutes: Mix 1 C dark brown sugar + 2 teaspoons molasses OR palm sugar OR piloncillo OR brown sugar OR maple sugar OR date sugar

Java sugar

jus de canne

levulose

light brown sugar = golden brown sugar (1C = 6 ounces) Substitutes: 2/3 C dark brown sugar + 1/3 C granulated sugar OR turbinado sugar

malt Notes: This mild sweetener is sold as a syrup or powder. Diastatis malt is used by bread makers to feed the yeast and improve the texture. Nondiastatic malt is used in bread as a flavoring and preservative.

maltose

malt sugar = maltose = genuine maltose Notes: Look for this in Asian markets. Substitutes: honey (much sweeter)

maple sugar = maple sprinkles Notes: This is made from maple syrup which has been dried and granulated. It's often sprinkled on cereal and toast. Substitutes: date sugar = granulated sugar OR sucanat

marshmallow Equivalents: Ten large marshmallows = 1 C miniature marshmallows. To make your own: See the Marshmallows recipe posted on Recipesource.com. Substitutes: marshmallow creme (moister and sweeter) OR whipped cream (as topping on hot chocolate)

marshmallow creme = marshmallow fluff Shopping hints: Kraft is a well-known brand. To make your own: Gently heat 16 ounces of marshmallows plus 1/4 cup corn syrup in a double boiler, stirring constantly.

misri Notes: Look for bags of these sugar crystals in Indian markets.

muscovado sugar Substitutes: dark brown sugar

palm sugar = coconut sugar = Java sugar Notes: Look for this is Indian or Asian markets. It should crumble when you squeeze it. Substitutes: Mix 1 C dark brown sugar + 2 teaspoons molasses OR jaggery OR piloncillo OR brown sugar OR maple sugar OR date sugar

panela

panocha

piloncillo = panela = panocha Shopping hints: Look for cones of this in Mexican markets. Substitutes: Combine 1 C dark brown sugar with 2 tablespoons molasses (very close substitute)

powdered sugar = confectioner's sugar = icing sugar Substitutes: Mix 1 cup granulated sugar + 1 tablespoon corn starch in blender until powdery, stirring often OR (to sweeten whipped cream) artificial sweeteners (add after cream is completely whipped) Links: See also Powdered Sugar Replacement page for diabetics, and the Powdered Sugar Replacement page on www.vegweb.com.

raw sugar Substitutes: turbinado sugar

refined sugar

regular sugar

sanding sugar

standard granulated sugar

sucanat = unrefined natural sugar = granulated sugar cane juice = dehydrated sugar cane juice Substitutes: granulated sugar (fewer nutrients) OR brown sugar OR turbinado sugar

sucrose

sugar

sugar cane Notes: These are fun to chew on. They're available in the produce section either peeled (left) or unpeeled.

superfine sugar

table sugar

turbinado sugar Substitutes: demerara sugar OR light brown sugar OR raw sugar

ultrafine sugar

unrefined natural sugar

vanilla sugar To make your own: Put a vanilla bean in a pound of granulated sugar for a week.

white sugar

zucker hut = zuckerhut = sugar hat Notes: Look for this in German markets. During the Christmas and New Year's holidays, Germans pour rum over the cones and ignite them to make feuerzangebowle, or fire tong punch.

Liquid Sweeteners

liquid sweeteners Notes: This category includes various syrups, honey, and molasses.

Varieties:

almond syrup

barley malt syrup = barley syrup = malt syrup = dark malt syrup = malted cereal syrup = extract of malted barley Notes: This tastes a bit like molasses, and it's not as sweet as sugar or honey. It's mostly used to make beer, but it's also used to make breads or other baked goods. Substitutes: molasses (1 cup barley malt syrup = 2/3 cup molasses) OR rice bran syrup (1 cup barley malt syrup = 4/3 rice bran syrup) OR maple syrup

black treacle = dark treacle Pronunciation: TREE-cull Shopping hints: This is the British version of America's blackstrap molasses. It's common in Britain, but hard to find in the United States. Look for it in specialty markets. Don't confuse this with golden syrup, which is sometimes called light treacle. Substitutes: blackstrap molasses OR molasses OR golden syrup (Many cooks prefer this over black treacle for their treacle puddings and tarts, since it's less bitter.)

blackstrap molasses = black strap molasses Notes: This has a strong, bitter flavor, and it's not very sweet. It's sometimes used to make chili. Look for it in health food stores.

brown rice syrup = rice syrup = rice bran syrup = rice malt = yinnie syrup Notes: Health buffs like this because it contains complex sugars, which are absorbed more slowly into the bloodstream. It's about half as sweet as ordinary table sugar. Some rice syrups include barley malt, and may pose a problem for people with gluten allergies. Substitutes: maple syrup (substitute 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons liquid for each cup of brown rice syrup) OR molasses (substitute 1/2 cup for each cup of brown rice syrup) OR barley malt syrup (substitute 3/4 cup for each cup of brown rice syrup) OR honey (substitute 3/4 C honey plus 2 tablespoons liquid for every cup of brown rice syrup)

coconut syrup Notes: Hawaiians like to pour this syrup on pancakes, but it's also used in several mixed drinks. To make your own: See the recipe for coconut syrup posted on kitchenmixes.com. Substitutes: cream of coconut (for mixed drinks)

corn syrup Notes: This is a thick, sweet syrup that's popular in America, but hard to find in other countries. Unlike other sweeteners, corn syrup doesn't crystallize and turn grainy when it's cold, so it's a good choice for frostings, fudge sauces, and candies. Baked goods made with corn syrup are moister and stay fresher longer than those made with sugar. There are two types: dark corn syrup is dark brown and has a slight molasses flavor, while light corn syrup is almost clear and has a more delicate flavor. The two can be used interchangeably in many recipes. Karo is a well-known brand. Store corn syrup at room temperature. Substitutes: golden syrup (Substitute measure for measure) OR honey (This is sweeter than corn syrup, but substitute it measure for measure.) OR molasses (Substitute measure for measure.)

dark corn syrup = dark Karo syrup Notes: This corn syrup has a mild molasses flavor, and it's a common ingredient in barbecue sauce, pecan pie, Substitutes: simple syrup (make with 2 parts sugar and 1 part water) OR Combine 3 parts light corn syrup plus 1 part molasses OR golden syrup

Falernum Notes: This is a Caribbean cane syrup that's delicately flavored and slightly alcoholic. It's sometimes used in rum-based cocktails. Substitutes: simple syrup (less expensive)

flavored syrups Notes: These are often used to flavor Italian sodas or coffee. They come in dozens of flavors, but some of the most popular are vanilla, almond, raspberry, Irish cream, and hazelnut. Popular brands include d'Arbo, Monin, and Torani. To make your own: Make a simple syrup with equal parts sugar and water, then add flavored extract to taste. Store in the refrigerator. Substitutes: liqueur OR fruit syrup OR syrup from cans of fruit packed in heavy syrup

fruit syrups

golden syrup = cane juice = jus de canne = cane syrup = sugar cane juice = light treacle Notes: This amber-colored liquid sweetener is popular among British, Caribbean, and Creole cooks. It's made by evaporating sugar cane juice until it's thick and syrupy. Lyle's Golden Syrup and Steen's Pure Cane Syrup are popular brands. Substitutes: Combine two parts light corn syrup plus one part molasses OR equal parts honey and corn syrup OR maple syrup (This is thinner, and not as sweet.) OR dark corn syrup (This is thnner and not as sweet as golden syrup. If you like, try reducing the corn syrup in a saucepan to thicken it.) OR light corn syrup (This is thnner and not as sweet or flavorful as golden syrup. If you

like, try reducing the corn syrup in a saucepan to thicken it.)

honey

Karo syrup

khus syrup Notes: Indians use this to make desserts and drinks. Substitutes: rose syrup

light corn syrup = light Karo syrup Equivalents: One cup = 8 ounces) Notes: Light corn syrup is used to make everything from candy to fake blood at Halloween. Substitutes: dark corn syrup (more pronounced flavor) OR simple syrup (make with 2 parts sugar and 1 part water) OR golden syrup OR honey

maple syrup Notes: Made from the sap of sugar maples, maple syrup is a traditional topping for pancakes, waffles, and French toast. It's also used to make candies, frostings, candied yams, meat glazes, and baked beans. Lighter syrups usually have a more delicate flavor. Refrigerate after opening. Don't confuse authentic maple syrup with the cheaper and more commonly used pancake syrup, which are based on corn syrup. Substitutes: pancake syrup OR berry syrup (on pancakes) OR brown rice syrup OR brown sugar (on hot cereals) OR light molasses (on pancakes or hot cereals) OR honey thinned with apple juice OR granulated sugar (If you're baking, substitute 1 cup sugar for every 3/4 cup of maple syrup, then increase the liquid in the recipe by 3 tablespoons per cup of sugar. If baking soda is used, decrease the

amount by 1/4 teaspoon per cup of sugar substituted, since sugar is less acidic than maple syrup.)

mint syrup To make your own: See the Mint Syrup recipe on CooksRecipes.com.

molasses = treacle Pronunciation: muh-LASS-sis Equivalents: One cup = 8 ounces Notes: Sugar is made by extracting juice from sugar cane or sugar beets, boiling them, and then extracting the sugar crystals. Molasses is the thick, syrupy residue that's left behind in the vats. It has a sweet, distinctive flavor, and it's a traditional ingredient in such things as gingerbread, baked beans, rye bread, and shoofly pie. There are several different varieties. Light molasses = sweet molasses = mild molasses = Barbados molasses is taken from the first boiling. It's the sweetest and mildest, and is often used as a pancake syrup or a sweetener for beverages. Dark molasses = full molasses = full-flavored molasses is left behind after the juices are boiled a second time. It's less sweet but more flavorful than light molasses, and it's a good choice if a recipe simply calls for molasses. Blackstrap molasses comes from the third and final boiling. It's too strong and bitter for most recipes, and it's mostly consumed for its alleged nutritional benefits. Most of the molasses sold in supermarkets is unsulfured. Sulfured molasses has sulfur dioxide added as a preservative, and isn't as mild and sweet as unsulfured molasses. Food grade molasses is almost always made from sugar cane. Sugar beet molasses is very bitter and is mostly used as cattle feed or as a medium for growing yeast. When measuring molasses, grease the cup and utensils to keep molasses from sticking. If

your molasses crystallizes while being stored, heat it gently to dissolve the crystals. After opening, you can store molasses in your cupboard. Substitutes: dark corn syrup OR maple syrup (works well in gingerbread cookies) OR honey OR barley malt syrup (weaker flavor; use 1/3 less) OR brown sugar (Substitute 1.5 cups brown sugar for every 1 cup molasses)

orgeat = orzata = almond syrup Pronunciation: OR-zhat Notes: This sweet almond-flavored syrup is used in many mixed drinks. Look for it in liquor stores. To make your own: See the Almond Syrup recipe on the ichef website.

orzata

palm syrup To make your own: melt palm sugar, then strain

pancake syrup = maple-flavored syrup Notes: This is the inexpensive version of maple syrup that Americans love to pour on pancakes and waffles. It's usually based on corn syrup, and flavored either with artificial flavoring or real maple syrup. To make your own: See the recipe for Mock Maple Syrup on RecipeSource. Substitutes: maple syrup OR berry syrup (on pancakes) OR brown rice syrup OR brown sugar (on hot cereals) OR light molasses (on pancakes or hot cereals) OR honey thinned with apple juice OR granulated sugar (If you're baking, substitute 1 cup sugar for every 3/4 cup of maple syrup, then increase the liquid in the recipe by 3 tablespoons per cup of sugar. If baking soda is used, decrease the amount by 1/4 teaspoon per cup of sugar substituted, since sugar is less acidic than maple syrup.)

rice bran syrup

rice malt

rice syrup

simple syrup = sugar syrup Notes: This is a mixture of sugar and water that's brought to a boil and simmered for about five minutes so that the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes syrupy. When it cools, it's used to make mixed drinks, liqueurs, baked goods, sorbets, sauces, and many other things. The thickness of the syrup depends upon the ratio of sugar to water used. Many simple syrup recipes call for equal parts sugar and water. For a thinner syrup, combine two parts water with one part sugar. Rock candy syrup, a heavy syrup used to make some liqueurs and mixed drinks, is made with two parts sugar and one part water. sorghum molasses = sorghum syrup Notes: This is made from sorghum cane juice, and Southerners sometimes use it instead of molasses to make things like barbecue sauce, baked beans, and gingerbread. Look for it in health food stores. Substitutes: golden syrup OR molasses (not as sweet)

Swedish light syrup = ljus sirap Substitutes: golden syrup

violet syrup To make your own: See the recipe for Violet Syrup on RecipeSource.

Chocolate

Chocolate is made from tropical cacao beans, which are transformed by machines and an inveterate spelling error into a bitter, brown paste of cocoa butter and cocoa solids. When this unsweetened chocolate is combined with sugar, vanilla, and other ingredients, the result, of course, is heavenly.

Chocolate's notoriously hard to work with. If you don't store it properly (preferably at 65° or so), the cocoa butter can separate slightly from the solids, causing the chocolate to "bloom." This leaves a telltale gray residue on the surface and impairs the taste and texture slightly. Chocolate will scorch if you melt it at too high a temperature, or "seize" and become thick and grainy if you add even a drop of cold liquid to it as it's melting. You can prevent it from seizing by adding hot liquids (like cream) to chopped chocolate in order to melt it, or by making sure that anything you're dipping into the melted chocolate (like a strawberry or whisk) is perfectly dry. If your chocolate has seized, you can still use it in any recipe that calls for chocolate to be blended with a liquid. Just add the liquid to the chocolate and melt it again.

If you plan to melt chocolate, it's best to buy it in bars. Chips contain less cocoa butter so that they can better hold their shape in cookies, but this makes them harder to melt and less tasty. It's easiest to melt chocolate in a microwave oven. Just break the chocolate into small pieces, heat it for 30 seconds at 50% power, stir, then repeat a few times. Take it out of the microwave when the chocolate is almost completely melted, then continue stirring until the melting is complete. If you don't have a microwave, use a double boiler.

Varieties:

American cocoa See cocoa.

baking chocolate See unsweetened chocolate.

bitter chocolate See unsweetened chocolate.

bittersweet chocolate Notes: This is a sweetened chocolate that's heavy on the cocoa solids and light on the sugar, giving it a rich, intense chocolate flavor. Many pastry chefs prefer bittersweet to semi-sweet or sweet chocolate, but the three can be used interchangeably in most recipes. The best bittersweet chocolates contain at least 50% cocoa solids. Substitutes: semi-sweet chocolate (Very similar, but bittersweet chocolate usually has more chocolate liquor. To make semisweet chocolate more like bittersweet chocolate, add some unsweetened chocolate or cocoa powder to it.) OR sweet chocolate

carob = St. John's bread = honey locust = locust bean Pronunciation: CARE-ub Notes: Carob is sometimes used as a substitute by those unfortunates who are allergic to chocolate, since its flavor is vaguely similar. Others use it as a healthy alternative to chocolate, since it contains less fat and no caffeine. It's available as raw pods, chips, and either as toasted or untoasted powder (toasting helps bring out the flavor). Look for it in health food stores. Substitutes: cocoa powder (Most cookbooks call for cocoa to be substituted for carob measure for measure, but since cocoa has a stronger flavor, you should use less. Cocoa powder has more fat than carob powder, and some caffeine. Since carob burns more easily than cocoa, the recipe may call for a lower oven temperature than is necessary with cocoa powder.)

carob chips Notes: You can use these in place of chocolate chips in cookies or trail mix. Substitutes: chocolate chips

chocolate chips = chocolate morsels Notes: These are designed to go into chocolate chip cookies, muffins, and trail mixes. Chocolate chips often have less cocoa butter than chocolate bars, which helps them retain their shape better when they're baked in the oven. Avoid chips that contain vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter--they have a waxy flavor. Substitutes: chocolate bars chopped into chunks OR M&M candies (in cookies) OR nuts (in cookies) OR carob chips OR raisins OR chocolate-covered raisins OR butterscotch chips (If you're using these in place of chocolate chips to make fudge, use less fat in the recipe.) OR peanut butter chips (If you're using these in place of chocolate chips to make fudge, use less fat in the recipe.) OR white chocolate chips (If you're using these in place of chocolate chips to make fudge, use less fat in the recipe.)

chocolate curls = chocolate shavings = shaved chocolate Notes: This is a pretty and easily-made garnish for desserts. The curls are fragile, so it's best to move them around with a toothpick. To make your own: Warm a square of sweet, semi-sweet, bittersweet, white, or milk chocolate in the microwave at 50% power for about 30 seconds, then shave curls from it using a vegetable peeler. If the chocolate crumbles, it's too cold. Substitutes: Use a grater to grate chocolate onto the dessert you're garnishing. OR dust with cocoa

chocolate-hazelnut spread = chocolate-hazelnut paste = chocolate-hazelnut butter = gianduja paste = gianduia paste = pasta gianduja = gianduja pâté = gianduia pâté Notes: This is a mixture of chocolate and hazelnut paste that Europeans use like peanut butter. Nutella is a popular brand. Substitutes: peanut butter

cocoa = cocoa powder = unsweetened cocoa powder Equivalents: 1/4 cup cocoa powder = 1 ounce Pronunciation: KOH-koh Notes: Cocoa is similar to unsweetened chocolate, only it's in powdered form and has less cocoa butter. Cooks like it because it allows them to make low-fat goodies, or to use fats other than cocoa butter. Cocoa's also used to dust candies and cakes. Dutched cocoa = Dutch process cocoa = European process cocoa is treated with an alkali, making it milder yet richer-tasting. It's the preferred cocoa for beverages and frozen desserts, and for dusting baked goods. Recipes for baked goods usually intend for you to use natural cocoa = American cocoa = regular cocoa = nonalkalized cocoa, which is more acidic than Dutched cocoa. You can often substitute one type of cocoa for the other, but if the recipe includes baking soda, it may be counting on the acid in natural cocoa in order to react. Don't confuse cocoa powder, which is bitter, with instant cocoa mixes, which are sweetened. Substitutes: carob powder (Most cookbooks call for carob to be substituted for cocoa measure for measure, but since carob has a milder flavor, you might want to use more. Carob powder tends to lump, so mix it into

a paste first with a bit of liquid. It also burns more easily than cocoa powder, so reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees.) OR unsweetened baking chocolate (One ounce of unsweetened baking chocolate = 3 tablespoons cocoa plus 1 tablespoon butter or oil.)

cocoa butter Notes: Pastry chefs add this to chocolate to thin it, usually so that they can pour a thinner coating on a cake.

compound chocolate coating = compound chocolate = chocolate summer coating = decorator's chocolate = confectioners' chocolate = confectionery coating = chocolate flavored coating = confectioners’ coating chocolate Notes: This is an inexpensive chocolate that's melted and used for dipping and molding. Since it's made with vegetable oils instead of cocoa butter, it's much easier to work with than ordinary chocolate. It also melts at a higher temperature, so it doesn't get all over your hands when you eat it. The downside is that it doesn't have the rich taste and texture of regular chocolate. Though it's considered to be a beginner's chocolate, it's still a bit fussy. It can scorch if you cook it at too high a temperature, or seize if you add even a drop of cold liquid to it after it's melted. Substitutes: couverture chocolate (This has luscious cocoa butter, which makes it tastier but harder to work with.) OR compound coating (other than chocolate) OR chocolate hazelnut spread (This makes a good

chocolate dip for strawberries. Thin it with a little cream and warm it in a double boiler before dipping.)

couverture chocolate = couverture-grade chocolate = coating chocolate = commercial coating chocolate Pronunciation: KOO-ver-chure Notes: Couverture means covering in French, and professionals use this type of chocolate to coat candies and glaze cakes. It has a higher percentage of cocoa butter than ordinary chocolate, which makes for glossier coatings and a richer flavor. Available in bittersweet, semi-sweet, white, and milk chocolate. It's expensive, and you may need to go to a specialty store to find it. Substitutes: compound chocolate coating (Not as rich and tasty, but easier to work with) OR ordinary chocolate

dark chocolate = plain chocolate = continental chocolate = luxury chocolate Notes: This refers to sweetened chocolate other than milk or white chocolate. It includes bittersweet, semi-sweet, and sweet chocolates, all of which can be used interchangeably in most recipes.

Dutched cocoa See cocoa.

Dutch process cocoa See cocoa.

European process cocoa See cocoa.

gianduja = gianduia = hazelnut-flavored chocolate Pronunciation: zhahn-DOO-yuh Notes: This Italian specialty is made with chocolate and hazelnut paste. It's unbelievably good. Substitutes: milk chocolate

honey locust Substitutes: carob.

hot chocolate mix See hot cocoa mix.

hot cocoa mix = hot chocolate mix = instant cocoa mix Notes: You need only add boiling water to this powdered mix and stir to make hot chocolate. To make your own: Combine 2 cups powdered milk, 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, 1/2 cup cocoa, and 1/2 cup powdered nondairy creamer. To make hot chocolate, mix one part cocoa mix with three parts boiling water. Substitutes: Mexican chocolate

instant cocoa mix See hot cocoa mix.

locust bean Substitutes: carob.

Mexican chocolate = Mexican style sweet chocolate Equivalents: 1 tablet = 3.1 ounces Notes: This grainy chocolate is flavored with sugar, almonds, and cinnamon, and used to make hot chocolate and mole sauce. You can buy boxes containing large tablets of this in the Mexican foods aisle of larger supermarkets. Ibarra is a well-respected brand. Substitutes: 1 ounce = 1 ounce semi-sweet chocolate + 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon OR (in mole sauces) cocoa powder (Substitute one tablespoon cocoa powder for every ounce of Mexican chocolate called for in the recipe.)

milk chocolate Notes: If you're looking for a plain chocolate candy bar, this is your best bet. It's like sweet chocolate, only it contains dried milk solids, which gives it a mellow flavor. It's not a good choice for baking, though, since it's sweeter and not as chocolatey as other chocolates. Despite this, many cooks prefer to use milk chocolate chips instead of semi-sweet chocolate chips in their

cookies. Be very careful if melting milk chocolate, it scorches very easily. Substitutes: sweet chocolate OR semi-sweet chocolate

natural cocoa See cocoa.

nonalkalized cocoa, See cocoa.

Nutella See gianduja.

regular cocoa See cocoa.

semi-sweet chocolate = semisweet chocolate Equivalents: One cup of chips = 6 ounces; if melting the chocolate, chips and squares are interchangeable. Squares can be chopped up to make chips for cookies. Notes: Americans like this best for their cookies and brownies. It's available in bars, chunks, and chips. Mint-flavored semi-sweet chips are also available. Substitutes: bittersweet chocolate (very similar, but bittersweet chocolate usually has more chocolate liquor.) OR unsweetened chocolate (1 ounce = 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate + 1 tablespoon sugar) OR 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa + 1 tablespoon sugar + 1 teaspoon unsalted butter or vegetable oil (may leave a powdery taste, but makes product moister and more flavorful.) OR 1 tablespoon peanut butter chips OR white chocolate (especially in chocolate chip cookies; more delicate flavor, burns more easily, contains more sugar.) OR milk chocolate

St. John's bread Substitutes: carob.

sweet chocolate = sweet dark chocolate = sweet baking chocolate Equivalents: One cup of chips = 6 ounces; if melting the chocolate, chips and squares are interchangeable. Notes: This is similar to semi-sweet chocolate, only it has a bit more sugar. It can be used interchangeably with bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate in most recipes. Baker's Chocolate calls its sweet chocolate German chocolate. Substitutes: semi-sweet chocolate OR bittersweet chocolate OR 1 ounce sweet chocolate = 1 ounce unsweetened baking chocolate + 4 teaspoons sugar OR 1 ounce sweet chocolate = 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa + 4 teaspoons sugar + 2 teaspoons unsalted butter (may leave a powdery taste, but makes product moister and more flavorful.)

unsweetened chocolate = bitter chocolate = baking chocolate = pure chocolate = chocolate liquor Equivalents: One cup of chips = 6 ounces Notes: What kid hasn't sneaked a bar of this out of the kitchen, only to discover that unadulterated chocolate is bitter and unpalatable. Some cooks prefer to use it over sweetened chocolate because it gives them better control of the sweetness and flavor of the product. Substitutes: cocoa (One ounce unsweetened chocolate = 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine or shortening or vegetable oil. Using cocoa may leave a powdery taste, but it usually makes the product moister and more flavorful.) OR 3 tablespoons carob powder + 2 tablespoons water + 1 tablespoon butter or margarine or vegetable oil (lower oven temperature by 25 degrees) OR semi-sweet chocolate (1 ounce semi-sweet chocolate = 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate + 1 tablespoon sugar, so decrease the sugar in the recipe accordingly.)

unsweetened cocoa powder See cocoa.

white chocolate = white baking bar Notes: Like milk chocolate, this is made of cocoa butter, sugar, milk, and vanilla. The only difference is that white chocolate doesn't have any cocoa solids. Since the FDA won't let American producers label a product "chocolate" unless it has those cocoa solids, domestic white chocolate is known by a hodge-podge of different names. White chocolate scorches easily, so cook it gently. Bars and wafers usually taste better than chips. Avoid white chocolate that's made with vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter--it's cheaper but not nearly as good. Substitutes: milk chocolate

white chocolate chips = white chips Notes: These are used to make white chocolate chip cookies. They contain less cocoa butter than ordinary white chocolate, so it's harder to melt them. Substitutes: white chocolate (cut into chunks) OR chocolate chips OR carob chips

Candy

caramels

decorator's sugar = coarse sugar = decorating sugar To make your own: To color, put a few drops of food coloring into a jar, then add 4 or 5 tablespoons of white decorator's sugar. Seal the jar and shake. Substitutes: demerara sugar OR nonpareils OR turbinado sugar

dragees (dragées) Pronunciation: drah-ZHAY Notes: These comes in gold or silver. Substitutes: nonpareils OR jimmies OR glitter

English toffee

halvah = halva = halavah Pronunciation: hall-VAH OR HALL-vah Notes: This is a Turkish candy made with ground sesame seeds and honey, often with fruit and nuts added. Look for it in the deli section of large supermarkets, or in Middle Eastern or Jewish markets.

jelly beans

jimmies

nonpareils Notes: non-pah-REHLS Notes: These small colored balls are used to decorate cakes and cookies. Substitutes: jimmies OR dragées

peanut butter chips Substitutes: chocolate chips OR butterscotch chips

red hots = cinnamon red hots = cinnamon imperials

snowflakes

sparkling sugar

sprinkles Notes: These are small candies that are sprinkled on cakes and cookies. Varieties includes nonpareils, dragées, snowflakes, and jimmies.

varak = vark = gold leaf Notes: Indians use these ultra-thin sheets of gold leaf to decorate dishes. Look for it in Indian groceries and cake decorating stores.

Nut Pastes

almond butter Notes: Almond butter is grittier and more expensive than peanut butter, but it can substitute for peanut butter in many recipes. To make your own: Process two cups of blanched and toasted whole almonds in a food processor for a few minutes, add up to one teaspoon of salt, then process for a few minutes more. Yields a bit more than one cup. Substitutes: peanut butter OR cashew butter

almond paste Notes: This is a paste made with finely ground blanched almonds, sugar, glycerin, and sometimes almond extract. Bakers use it to make cakes and cookies. Bitter almond paste is flavored with oil of bitter almonds, and is worth seeking out if you plan to make amaretti. Look for tubes or cans of it among the baking supplies at your supermarket. Substitutes: marzipan (sweeter and more pliable than almond paste)

almond filling Notes: This sweet filling is used to make pastries and cakes.

candied chestnuts = marrons glacés Notes: A French specialty, these are whole chestnuts that are candied in a sugar syrup. They're used to make various desserts. Substitutes: chestnut cream

cashew butter Notes: This is an interesting alternative to peanut butter, though it's a bit pricey. To make your own: Blend in food processor two cups roasted cashews plus one to two tablespoons vegetable oil. Store it in the refrigerator. Substitutes: peanut butter OR almond butter

chestnut cream = crème de marron Notes: This is made with puréed chestnuts, brown sugar, and vanilla. It's used as an ingredient in several desserts, including Mont Blanc. Refrigerate after opening.

chestnut purée = chestnut puree = purée de marron Notes: Europeans use this to make everything from soups to stuffings to desserts. You can buy it either sweetened or unsweetened. If you're not sure which one your recipe is calling for, get unsweetened purée and add sugar later if needed. To make your own: Simmer shelled and peeled chestnuts in milk or water over low heat for an hour (adding more liquid as necessary), then purée and press through a sieve.

hazelnut butter Notes: This is similar to peanut butter, only it's made with roasted hazelnuts. To make your own: Combine one cup roasted and skinned hazelnuts and one or two tablespoons vegetable oil and salt and sugar to taste in a food processor or blender and mix until it has a spreadable consistency. Substitutes: chocolate-hazelnut spread

hazelnut paste = pasta nocciola Notes: This is used as a filling in candies and baked goods. Look for it in specialty shops or Middle Eastern markets. To make your own: Coarsely chop one pound roasted hazelnuts. In a food processor or blender, finely grind about 1/3 of the nuts at a time, until mealy. Add egg whites from 3 large eggs, 2 cups powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons hazelnut liqueur. Blend until paste forms. Wrap and store in a covered container, up to 2 weeks. Makes 2-3 cups. Recipe courtesy of the Oregon Hazelnut Commission, and reprinted with their permission. Substitutes: chocolate-hazelnut spread

marzipan = marchpane = almond modeling paste Pronunciation: MAHR-zuh-pan Notes: Marzipan is made from ground almonds and sugar, and it's used to make colorful and edible decorations and confections. Look for tubes or cans of it among the baking supplies in your supermarket. To make your own: Knead together 8 ounces of almond paste, one egg white, one tablespoon light corn syrup, and a

few drops of flavoring extract. Gradually add in 3 cups powdered sugar until the marzipan can be easily worked.

nut butter = nut spread Notes: If you mix roasted nuts, vegetable oil, salt, and maybe some sugar in a blender or food processor for awhile, you'll get a smooth, spreadable paste called nut butter. Nut butters can be spread on bread or crackers, blended into savory sauces, or teamed up with chocolate to make desserts. Substitutes: hummus (as a spread) OR cream cheese (as a spread)

peanut butter = peanut paste Notes: High in protein and low in cost, peanut butter is a sandwich staple. It's often teamed with jelly, but honey, bananas, onions, and even pickles work well too. Natural peanut butter is made simply of peanuts, oil, and sometimes salt. It's not very popular with consumers, though, since it needs to be refrigerated after opening, and the oil tends to separate and rise to the top. Most shoppers turn instead to commercial peanut butters, which don't need to be refrigerated and don't separate. Unfortunately, these products are made with hydrogenated oils, which are bad for you. Since many people are allergic to peanuts, it's important to alert guests if you're serving something that's made with peanut butter. To make your own: Blend in food processor two cups roasted peanuts plus one to two tablespoons peanut oil. Store it in the refrigerator. Substitutes: cashew butter OR almond butter OR sesame paste (in savory Asian dishes) OR hummus OR chocolate-hazelnut spread

poppy seed filling Notes: Eastern European cooks like to put this into their pastries and cakes.

praline paste = praliné Notes: This paste is made with almond or hazelnut butter and sugar, and it's used to make candy and other desserts. It's hard to make yourself, since homemade nut butters tend to be gritty. Unfortunately, it's also hard to find commercially prepared praline paste, though you can order it online at www.kingarthurflour.com. The oil sometimes separates and rises to the top, so stir before using. Substitutes: chestnut puree OR chopped nuts

sesame butter Notes: This is a paste made from toasted black (i.e., unhulled) sesame seeds. It's similar to sesame paste, but thicker and darker. Once you've opened it, store it in the refrigerator unless you plan to use it up within a week or so. To make your own: In a blender, mix toasted, unhulled sesame seeds with a small amount of peanut oil (or other oil) until creamy Substitutes: sesame paste (thinner) OR 3 parts creamy peanut butter + 1 part sesame oil OR peanut butter

sesame paste = sesame seed paste = tahini = tahina Pronunciation: tuh-HEE-nee Notes: This is a paste made from ordinary white sesame seeds. It's used in the Middle East to make hummus, baba ghanouj, and sauces. The oil tends to rise to the top, so stir before using. Once you've opened it, store it in the refrigerator unless you plan to use it up within a week or so. To make your own: In a blender, mix white sesame seeds with a small amount of peanut oil (or other oil) until creamy Substitutes: sesame butter (thicker) OR 3 parts creamy peanut butter + 1 part sesame

oil OR toasted sesame seeds (for hummus) OR toasted sesame oil (for hummus) OR peanut butter (for sauces)

sesame seed paste

sunflower butter Substitutes: sesame seed paste

tahina

tahini

Vinegars

vinegar Cooks use vinegar to make pickles, deglaze pans, marinate meats, and add tang to vinaigrettes, sauces, and even desserts. Vinegars are made by adding a bacteria called Acetobacter aceti to diluted wine, ale, or fermented fruits or grains. This creates acetic acid, which gives the liquid a sour flavor. Unopened, most vinegars will last for about two years in a cool, dark pantry. Once opened, vinegar should be used within three to six months.

Tips:

Vinegar breaks down protein fibers, so adding it to marinades or braising liquids will help tenderize meat.

To cut calories, make vinaigrettes from milder vinegars like balsamic, champagne, fruit, or rice wine vinegar. Since they're less pungent, you can use a higher ratio of vinegar to oil.

Vinegar will dissolve reactive metals like aluminum, iron, and copper. When cooking with vinegar, use pots and utensils made of stainless steel, glass, enamel, plastic, or wood.

It's easier to peel hard-boiled eggs if you add a teaspoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of salt to the water they cook in.

Vinegar can reduce bitterness and balance flavors in a dish. Adding vinegar to a pot of water improves the color of any vegetables you're

cooking.

Varieties: There are many different kinds of vinegars, most of them associated with regional cuisines. The French like RED WINE VINEGAR and WHITE WINE VINEGAR, which are tangy and great for vinaigrettes and marinades. Italians prefer BALSAMIC VINEGAR, which is dark, complex, and slightly sweet, while Spaniards often reach for their smooth yet potent SHERRY VINEGAR. Asians use RICE VINEGAR, which is relatively mild. Americans favor CIDER VINEGAR, which is tangy and fruity, which British and Canadian cooks prefer MALT VINEGAR, which has a distinctive, lemony flavor. The biggest seller of all is WHITE VINEGAR, which is distilled from ethyl alcohol. It's cheap but somewhat harsh-tasting, so while it's great for making pickles, acidulating water, and cleaning out coffee pots, it's not a good choice for most recipes.

Substitutes: LEMON JUICE (as a flavoring or for acidulating water) OR LIME JUICE (as a flavoring or for acidulating water) OR BRANDY (for deglazing pans) OR FORTIFIED WINE (for deglazing pans and perking up sauces) OR WINE (for deglazing pans and perking up sauces) OR ASCORBIC ACID (mixed with water) OR AMCHOOR OR TAMARIND PASTE

aceto balsamico

acidulated water Pronunciation: uh-SIJ-uh-lay-tid Notes: This is water that's been mixed with a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar to make it slightly acidic. If you put freshly sliced fruits or vegetables in acidulated water, they won't darken. To make your own: Mix one or two tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar with one quart of water.

apple cider vinegar

balsamic vinegar = aceto balsamico = aceto di balsamico Pronunciation: ball-SAHM-ick Notes: This enormously popular Italian vinegar is prized for its sweet, fruity flavor and mild acidity. It's terrific for deglazing pans, dressing salads and vegetable dishes, and for seasoning everything from grilled meat to poached fruit. Its quality varies enormously. Expensive artisan-made balsamic vinegars (labeled traditional or tradizionale) are aged in wood barrels for at least 12 years and can cost over $100 per bottle. They're exquisitely complex, syrupy and only slightly acidic. Those who can afford them often drink them as they would a vintage port, or use them in desserts, where their sweetness and subtleties can be shown off to best advantage. Cheaper commercial brands are watered down with wine vinegar and artificially colored, but they're fine for most recipes. Substitutes: brown rice vinegar OR Chinese black vinegar (cheaper) OR red wine vinegar + sugar or honey OR sherry vinegar OR fruit vinegar

cane vinegar = sukang iloko Notes: This is made from sugar cane syrup, and varies in quality. You can get cheap cane vinegar in Filipino markets, but the Vinegarman at www.vinegarman.com recommends that you hold out for the smoother Steen's Cane Vinegar, which is made in Louisiana.

champagne vinegar Notes: This light and mild vinegar is a good choice if you're want to dress delicately flavored salads or vegetables. Mix it with nut or truffle oil to make a sublime vinaigrette. Substitutes: white wine vinegar (not as mild) OR rice vinegar (not as mild) OR raspberry vinegar (not as mild) OR apple cider vinegar (not as mild)

Chekiang vinegar

Chenkong vinegar

Chinese black vinegar = black vinegar = black rice vinegar = Chinese brown rice vinegar = brown rice vinegar = Chinkiang vinegar = Chekiang vinegar = Chenkong vinegar = Zhejiang vinegar Notes: The best Chinese black vinegars are produced in the province of Chinkiang (or Chekiang or Zhejiang--there are many spellings). Black vinegar is more assertive than white rice vinegar, and it's often used in stir-fries, shark's fin soup, and as a dipping sauce. Gold Plum is a well-regarded brand. Substitutes: balsamic vinegar (similar, but more expensive) OR red rice vinegar (Add a bit of sugar to sweeten it.) OR apple cider vinegar OR wine vinegar OR Worcestershire sauce (as a dipping sauce)

Chinkiang vinegar

cider vinegar = apple cider vinegar Notes: Made from fermented apples, this fruity vinegar is inexpensive and tangy. While it's not the best choice for vinaigrettes or delicate sauces, it works well in chutneys, hearty stews, and marinades. It's also used to make pickles, though it will darken light-colored fruits and vegetables. Substitutes: malt vinegar OR white vinegar (a good choice for pickles) OR wine vinegar (not for pickles)

coconut vinegar = suka ng niyog Notes: This is a somewhat harsh and potent vinegar that's common in the Philippines, Southeast Asia, and southern India. Substitutes: cane vinegar OR 3 parts white vinegar plus 1 part water OR white wine vinegar OR cider vinegar

cranberry vinegar Substitutes: raspberry vinegar OR red wine vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar)

distilled vinegar

flavored vinegar = infused vinegar Notes: These are vinegars that have been flavored, usually with herbs, fruit, garlic, or peppercorns. They're handy if you want to whip up a flavorful salad dressing or sauce in a hurry.

fruit vinegar Notes: Fruit vinegars are assertive without being pungent, so they make terrific salad dressings. More healthful ones, too--since they're not as pungent as other vinegars, you can cut calories by using less oil. They're also good in marinades and in sauces for roasted meats, especially poultry, ham, pork, and veal. Popular commercial vinegars include raspberry vinegar, blueberry vinegar, and mango vinegar. They're easy enough to make at home, but seek out a trustworthy recipe. If too much fruit is added to the vinegar, it may not be sufficiently acidic to ward off harmful microbes. Substitutes: vinegar plus fresh fruit OR champagne vinegar OR cider vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar) OR wine vinegar (sweetened, if you like, with some sugar)

herb vinegar Notes: Herb vinegars are a convenient way to preserve fresh herbs and to incorporate their flavor into salad dressings, marinades, and sauces. They're easy to make at home. Just put one or two sprigs of clean, fresh herbs in a bottle of warm vinegar, tightly seal the bottle, and let it stand for at least a few days. The sprigs will eventually become bitter, so remove or replace them after a few weeks. Make sure that the vinegar you use has an acidity level of at least 5% (this information is given on the label). Wine, rice, or cider vinegars are good bases for most herb vinegars. Don't add too many herbs to the bottle, or you may reduce the acidity of the vinegar so much that it loses its ability to preserve. Substitutes: vinegar plus fresh herbs

malt vinegar = alegar Notes: Most of us know malt vinegar as the condiment that's always put on the table wherever British fish and chips are served. It's made from malted barley, and has a pungent, lemony flavor. It's a good choice for pickling (assuming it contains at least 5% acetic acid), though it will darken light-colored fruits and vegetables. It's also the vinegar of choice for making chutneys. Since it's so assertive, it's not a good choice for vinaigrettes or delicate sauces. Varieties include brown malt vinegar and distilled malt vinegar, which is clear. Substitutes: lemon juice (with fish and chips) OR cider vinegar OR white wine vinegar

palm vinegar = toddy vinegar Notes: This cloudy white vinegar is popular in the Philippines. It's milder than wine or cider vinegars. Substitutes: coconut vinegar OR other vinegar (use less to compensate for the mildness of palm vinegar)

pickled plum vinegar

pineapple vinegar Notes: This is used in Mexico, but hard to find in the United States. Grab a bottle if you can find it, for it's reputed to be quite good. Substitutes: apple cider vinegar

plum vinegar

raspberry vinegar Notes: This is a mild and fruity vinegar that makes a terrific salad dressing. Substitutes: sherry vinegar (especially with poultry) OR champagne vinegar (milder) OR blueberry vinegar OR red wine vinegar OR black currant vinegar OR rice vinegar OR apple cider vinegar OR balsamic vinegar

red rice vinegar = red vinegar = Chinese red vinegar = Chinese red rice vinegar Notes: This Asian vinegar is a bit salty. It's sometimes used in seafood or sweet and sour dishes, or as a dipping sauce. Substitutes: Chinese black vinegar (sweeter) OR cider vinegar OR red wine vinegar

red wine vinegar Notes: This assertive vinegar is a staple in French households. It's used in vinaigrettes and for making marinades, stews, and sauces. It's a good choice if you're trying to balance strong flavors in a hearty dish. Substitutes: white wine vinegar (very similar) OR balsamic vinegar OR sherry vinegar OR apple cider vinegar OR rice vinegar

rice vinegar = rice wine vinegar Notes: Rice vinegars are popular in Asian and they're sweeter, milder, and less acidic than Western vinegars. They're sometimes called "rice wine vinegars," but they're made from rice, not rice wine. Most recipes that call for rice vinegar intend for you to use white rice vinegar, which is used in both China and Japan. The Chinese also use red rice vinegar with seafood or in sweet and sour dishes, and black rice vinegar in stir-fries and dipping sauces. Substitutes: apple cider vinegar (also add a pinch of sugar if you like) OR white wine vinegar OR 3 parts white vinegar + 1 part water

seasoned rice vinegar = seasoned rice wine vinegar = sushi vinegar Notes: Accomplished Asian cooks who find this in your pantry are likely to purse their lips, just as Italian cooks would over a packet of spaghetti sauce mix. So keep it well hidden. It's lightly flavored with sugar and salt, and saves time when making sushi. You can also use it to dress salads, vegetables, and other dishes. Substitutes: 3/4 cup white rice vinegar plus 1/4 cup sugar plus 2 teaspoons salt.

sherry vinegar = sherry wine vinegar = vinagre de Jeréz = Jerez vinegar = vinagre de Xeres = Xeres vinegar Notes: Sherry vinegar is Spain's answer to balsamic vinegar. It's assertive yet smooth, and great for deglazing pans and perking up sauces, especially those that will accompany hearty meats like duck, beef, or game. The most expensive sherry vinegars are aged for a long time in wood casks. Substitutes: balsamic vinegar OR red wine vinegar (Also add a little sugar if you wish.) OR rice vinegar

tarragon vinegar = tarragon wine vinegar Notes: This popular herb vinegar is used to make Béarnaise sauce and vinaigrettes. It's easy to make at home. Just put one or two sprigs of clean, fresh tarragon in a bottle of warm white wine vinegar, tightly seal the bottle, and let it stand for at least a few days. The sprigs will eventually become bitter, so remove or replace them after a few weeks. Make sure that the vinegar you use has an acidity level of at least 5% (this information is given on the label). Don't add too much tarragon to the bottle, or you may reduce the acidity of the vinegar so much that it loses its ability to preserve. Substitutes: One tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves plus one cup vinegar (preferably white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, or apple cider vinegar) One teaspoon dried tarragon leaves plus one cup vinegar (preferably white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, or apple cider vinegar)

umeboshi vinegar = umeboshi plum vinegar = ume vinegar = ume plum vinegar = pickled plum vinegar = plum vinegar Notes: This Japanese vinegar is quite salty, and it has a distinctive, slightly fruity flavor. It's typically used in dips and salad dressings. Substitutes: red wine vinegar (Since this isn't as salty as umeboshi vinegar, you may want to add salt or soy sauce to the dish.)

umeboshi plum vinegar

ume vinegar

verjus = verjuice Pronunciation: vehr-ZHOO or VER-juice Notes: A medieval ingredient that's making a comeback, verjus is a sour juice made from unripened red or white grapes. Vinegars in salad dressings sometimes create off-tastes in the wines that accompany a meal. Verjus doesn't, so it's a good substitute for vinegar if you're planning to serve an expensive wine with dinner. Some people also mix it with sparkling water and ice to make a sophisticated non-alcoholic drink. After the bottle is opened, store verjus in the refrigerator, where it will keep for about a month. If you can't use it that fast, pour it into ice cube trays, freeze, then store the cubes in a plastic bag in the freezer. Though becoming more popular, verjus is still hard to find. Look for it in gourmet specialty shops. Substitutes: lemon juice (a very good and much cheaper substitute) OR white wine vinegar

white rice vinegar = su Notes: This Asian vinegar is milder and sweeter than Western vinegars. It's used in Japan to make sushi rice and salads, and in China to flavor stir-fries and soups. Western cooks often use it to flavor delicate chicken or fish dishes, or to dress salads or vegetables. Japanese brands tend to be milder than Chinese, but they can be used interchangeably. Substitutes: champagne vinegar OR seasoned rice vinegar OR white wine vinegar

white vinegar = distilled vinegar = distilled white vinegar = white distilled vinegar Notes: This cheap vinegar gets all the mundane jobs, like making pickles, cleaning out coffee pots, and washing windows. Distilled from ethyl alcohol, it's a bit too harsh for most recipes, but it does a great job with pickles. Be careful if you're substituting another vinegar in a pickle recipe--to adequately preserve, vinegar should have an acidity level of at least 5%. Substitutes: cider vinegar (This can be used for pickling if the acidity is at least 5%--check the label. Cider vinegar may darken light-colored fruits and vegetables.) OR malt vinegar (If you're pickling with it, check the label to make sure it has at least 5% acidity. This may discolor light-colored fruits and vegetables.)

white wine vinegar Notes: This is a moderately tangy vinegar that French cooks use to make Hollandaise and Béarnaise sauces, vinaigrettes, soups, and stews. It's also an excellent base for homemade fruit or herb vinegars. Substitutes: red wine vinegar (This has a stronger flavor, and it may discolor a light sauce.) OR champagne vinegar OR rice vinegar OR cider vinegar

wine vinegar Notes: Wine vinegars are milder and less acidic than cider or white distilled vinegar, so they're a good choice for salad dressings, sauces, and marinades. There are several varieties, ranging from mild champagne vinegar to the tangy white and red wine vinegars to the dark and assertive balsamic and sherry vinegars. The milder vinegars go best with more delicate dishes, like salads, which stronger ones are best for deglazing pans, marinating meats, and adding tang to sauces. Rice vinegar, though it's sometimes called rice wine vinegar, is made from fermented rice, not rice wine. Substitutes: cider vinegar OR rice vinegar (milder) OR malt vinegar

Liqueurs

liqueur = cordial Pronunciation: lih-CURR OR lih-CURE OR lee-CURR Notes: Liqueurs are mixtures of spirits, sweeteners, and flavorings like herbs, fruits, nuts, and flowers. They're sometimes served as after-dinner drinks, but they're more often poured on desserts or mixed into cocktails, milk, or coffee. Some cooks buy miniature bottles of liqueurs to conserve on money and cabinet space. Substitutes: fruit syrups OR Boil the juice that canned fruit comes in until it's reduced to a thick syrup. OR Bourbon OR rum OR Marsala OR vanilla extract (1 teaspoon extract = 1 tablespoon liqueur)

Varieties:

anise liqueurs

bitter liqueurs

chocolate liqueurs

crème liqueurs = crèmes Pronunciation: KREM Notes: Despite the name, crème liqueurs contain no cream. Instead, they're liqueurs that have been heavily sweetened and have a thick,

syrupy consistency. Don't confuse them with Irish cream liqueurs, which really are made with cream.

fruit liqueurs

herbal liqueurs

miscellaneous liqueurs

nut liqueurs

schnapps = schnaps Pronunciation: SHNAPS Notes: In the United States, schnapps are flavored liqueurs based on neutral spirits. The flavorings vary widely, and include peppermint schnapps, root beer schnapps, peach schnapps, and cinnamon schnapps. These flavored schnapps can be sweet or dry, but most are sweeter and lighter than a typical liqueur. In Germany and Scandinavia, schnapps refers to any spirit that's dry and potent, like kirsch and aquavit.

Fortified Wine

fortified wine Notes: These are wines that have been fortified with brandy and sometimes flavored with herbs, roots, peels, and spices. The most popular examples are sherry, Madeira, Marsala, port, and vermouth. Fortified wines are often used in cooking, or they're served as apéritifs or dessert wines. Substitutes: sparkling wine (as an apéritif) OR dessert wine

Varieties:

cooking sherry See sherry.

dry vermouth = French vermouth = white vermouth Notes: Dry means "not sweet", and this popular style of vermouth is used to make many cocktails, including the martini. Substitutes: sweet vermouth OR omit (Many people make martinis with just gin and olives.) OR Punt e Mes (This bitter vermouth cousin turns a martini into a red martini.) OR dry sherry OR dry white wine OR Madeira (works in many cocktails) OR white grape juice OR sake (This works well in a martini. Combine three parts gin with one part sake.)

Madeira Pronunciation: mah-DEER-uh Notes: This fortified wine is named for its birthplace, an island off the coast of Africa. Madeira wines first became popular back in the days of cross-Atlantic sailing ships, because they were able to survive long, hot trips in rolling ships. And they didn't just survive, they actually improved, so much so that sending them off on long round-trip sea voyages eventually became an integral part of their production, though the practice has since been abandoned. Madeiras are used both for cooking, and as after-dinner drinks. Varieties of Madeira (in order from driest to sweetest) include the Sercial Madeira, Rainwater Madeira, Verdelho Madeira, Bual Madeira = Boal Madeira, and Malvasia Madeira = Malmsey Madeira. "Reserve" Madeiras are aged at least five years, "special reserve" for at least ten, and "extra reserve" for at least fifteen. Madeiras from Portugal are considered to be far superior to domestic brands. Once opened, Madeira should be consumed within a week or so and stored in the refrigerator. Substitutes: port (especially a dry port) OR Marsala OR dry vermouth OR sherry (especially a dry sherry) OR stock (Either beef or chicken stock works well in meat-based sauces.)

Marsala Notes: This popular Sicilian fortified wine is Italy's answer to sherry and Madeira. It's mostly used as a cooking wine and is a key ingredient in many Italian dishes, including zabaglione, tiramisu, and veal scaloppini. Marsalas are graded according to their sweetness and age. The sweetest Marsalas are called "dolce," followed by "demisecco," and then "secco," which are the driest. Ranked from youngest to oldest, the age grades are "fine," "superiore," "superiore riserva," "vergine," and "stravecchio." Substitutes: Madeira OR equal parts sherry and sweet vermouth OR sherry

port = port wine Notes: This is a sweet Portuguese fortified wine that's sipped as an after-dinner drink, or used as a cooking ingredient. Vintage ports are the best, but they are very expensive. The sediment at the bottom of the bottle is a sign of quality. Crusted or late-bottled vintage ports are both less expensive and less elegant. Cheaper yet are the lighter and fruitier wood ports, which include the tawny ports and the lowly ruby ports. Wood ports don't age well in the bottle, so try to drink them within a year or two of purchase. Once opened, port should be consumed within a week or so and stored in the refrigerator. Substitutes: Madeira OR dry vermouth OR black muscat wine (like port, this goes well with chocolate) OR Banyuls (like port, this goes well with chocolate) OR unsweetened fruit juice OR (in meat-based sauces) beef or chicken stock

sack See sherry.

sherry = sack Notes: This fortified Spanish wine is typically served in small glasses before dinner, but many cooks also keep a bottle handy in the kitchen to perk up sauces, soups, and desserts. There are two categories of sherry: fino and oloroso. Fino sherry = Palma sherry is dry, fruity, and expensive. Examples of fino include the exquisite Manzanilla and the potent and nutty Amontillado. Oloroso sherry is more heavily fortified than fino. Examples include Amoroso and cream sherry, both of which are sweetened and especially popular in Britain. Once bottled, sherry doesn't age well, so you should plan to use it no more than a year or two after you buy it. Once opened, fino sherries should be consumed within a few days and stored in the refrigerator. Oloroso sherries can be stored a bit longer, say a week. Cooking sherry usually has added salt, and is shunned by more experienced cooks. Substitutes: Port OR Madeira OR Mirin OR red wine + 1 teaspoon sugar (per cup of wine) OR white wine (for cream soups and sauces, poultry, or game) OR dry vermouth (for cream soups and sauces, fish, or poultry) OR muscatel (for desserts, fruits, baked ham) OR vanilla extract (use much less) OR coffee (when making baked goods with chocolate or nuts) OR fruit juice (when making baked goods with fruit)

sweet vermouth = Italian vermouth Notes: This comes as either red vermouth (rosso) or sweet white vermouth (bianco). It's used to make many cocktails, including Manhattans and Negronis. If you're planning to make martinis, you probably want dry vermouth. Substitutes: dry vermouth OR Punt e Mes (This bitter vermouth cousin turns a martini into a red martini.) OR sherry OR white wine OR Madeira (works in many cocktails) OR white grape juice OR sake

vermouth Notes: This is a fortified wine that's heavily flavored with sugar, herbs, roots, flowers, and spices. It's sometimes served as an apéritif, but it's better known as a key ingredient in many cocktails, including martinis and Manhattans. It's also used to perk up sauces, especially those that accompany seafood. There are two main types: dry vermouth and sweet vermouth. Noilly Prat and Martini & Rossi are well-respected brands. Substitutes: omit (Many people make martinis with just gin and olives.) OR Punt e Mes (This bitter vermouth cousin turns a martini into a red martini.) OR dry sherry OR dry white wine OR Madeira (works in many cocktails) OR white grape juice OR sake (This works well in a martini. Combine three parts gin with one part sake.)

Wine

Wine is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented juice of fruit, usually grapes. There are four broad categories: table wines, sparkling wines, fortified wines, and fruit wines. Table wines are the most common, and they're grouped by color--red, white, and blush, which is sometimes called rosé. A red wine should be served at room temperature, and it goes well with hearty, meat-based dishes like steak and spaghetti. White and blush wines should be served chilled, and they go best with lighter fare, like fish and chicken. Many wines, called varietals, are named after the variety of grape used to make them. Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir are popular red varietals, while Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Johannisberg Riesling are popular white ones. In Europe, some wines, often blends of different varietals, are named after the place where the wine is produced, like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chablis, Rhine, and Rhône. These European wines are often superb, but American wines that have borrowed these regional names, like California Chablis, are almost always mediocre. If you're buying a domestic wine, it's often better to go with a varietal, like a California Cabernet Sauvignon. Substitutes: equal parts grape juice and broth (in stews and sauces) OR wine essence OR coffee

(in baked chocolate or nut dishes) OR fruit juice (in baked fruit dishes) OR vinegar (in marinades) OR broth OR verjus (in salad dressings) OR lemon juice (in salad dressings)

Varieties:

red wines

white wines

blush wines

sparkling wines

dessert wines

fruit wines

fortified wines

rice wines

Other classifications:

aromatized wine = flavored wine Notes: These are wines, like vermouth and retsina, that have been flavored, usually with herbs and spices.

cooking wine Notes: You should never cook with a wine you wouldn't drink, but some "cooking wines" sold at stores violate this maxim. Avoid them and instead cook with inexpensive, but drinkable, table wines. Avoid putting wine in aluminum or iron pans for prolonged periods.

de-alcoholized wine = dealcoholized wine Notes: These aren't as flavorful as ordinary wine, but they're a good choice for people who want to drink wine without consuming alcohol. Sparkling wines are the most popular de-alcoholized wines, but other varieties are also available. Many brands contain small amounts of alcohol. Substitutes: wine essence OR sparkling grape juice OR sparkling cider OR equal parts verjus and club soda, sweetened to taste with simple syrup. OR wine (Alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature than water, so cooking with wine will eliminate some or even most of the alcohol, but not all of it.)

Kosher wine = Passover wine Notes: This is wine that's been made in accordance with Rabbinical law. Most people think of them as syrupy-sweet screw-top wines made with Concord grapes, but some kosher wines are now being produced that are indistinguishable from quality non-kosher wines. Unless pasteurized, a wine can only remain kosher if it's poured by an observant Jew. Bottles of pasteurized wine sport the label "mevushal."

table wine = still wine Notes: Table wines are intended to be served with meals, and they're often classified by color: red, white or rosé.

Alcohol

Synonyms: alcoholic beverages

Liquor, including Brandy

Liqueurs

Wines, including Fortified Wines

Beer

Bitters

Other classifications:

apéritif = aperitif = apertivo Pronunciation: ah-pair-ee-TEEF Notes: Apéritifs are alcoholic drinks that, like appetizers, are served before dinner to perk up the appetite and wake up the taste buds. Examples include fortified wines, herbal and bitter liqueurs, and sparkling wines. Europeans often prefer these over cocktails.