chapter 17 hairstyling

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Chapter 17

Hairstyling


“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you.”

– Mary Tyler Moore


Objectives

• Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping.

• Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques.

• Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons.

• Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used.


• Describe the three types of hair pressing.

• Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard pressing.

• Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair.

Objectives (continued)


Wet-Styling Tools

• Combs• Brushes• Rollers (short, medium, or long)• Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged)• Pins• Clamps


Finger Waving

The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb,

waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.


Finger-Waving Lotion

• Makes hair pliable and holds it in place• Made of karaya gum• Diluted for use on fine hair• Concentrated for regular or coarse hair• Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry• Avoid excessive amounts of


Horizontal Finger Waving

• Preparing Hair for Wet Styling

• Horizontal Finger Waving

• Procedures will be covered during the practical class.


Pin Curls

• Parts of a Curl– Base

– Stem

– Circle


Mobility of a Curl

– No-stem

– Half-stem

– Full-stem


Shaping

• Begin at open end of a shaping.


Open- and Closed-Center Curls

• Open-center curls • Closed-center curls


Curl and Stem Direction

• Forward movement

• Reverse movement

• Upward movement

• Downward movement

• Clockwise

• Counterclockwise


Pin Curl Foundations or Bases

• Rectangular base

• Triangular base

• Arc base

• Square base


Pin Curl Techniques

• Ribboning

• Waves


• Carved/sculptured curls

• Ridge curls

• Skip waves

Pin Curl Techniques (continued)


Creating Volume with Pin Curls

• Cascade curls

• Barrel curls


Roller Curl Advantages

• Speed

• Increased strength

• Greater creativity


Parts of a Roller Curl

• Base

• Stem

• Curl


Choosing Roller Size

• C-shaped curl

• Wave

• Curls


Roller Placement

• On base

• Half base

• Off base

• Indentation


Wet Styling

• Wet set with rollers

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.


Rollers

• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam

• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states)


Back-Combing Technique

• Section hair.• Insert comb.• Press comb to scalp.• Create cushion base. • Repeat for volume.• Smooth hair.


Back-Brushing Technique

• Hold strand.• Place brush.• Roll brush.• Turn brush.• Blend hair.• Complete styling.


Hair Wrapping

• Hair Wrapping Procedure



Thermal Styling

• The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation

• Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain.


Blow-Dry Styling Tools

• Blow-dryer– Handle

– Slotted nozzle

– Small fan

– Heating element

– Speed/heat controls

– Diffuser


Combs, Picks, Clips


Brushes

• Classic styling brush• Paddle brush• Grooming brush• Vent brush• Round brush• Teasing brush


Styling Products

• Foam or mousse

• Gels

• Liquid gels or texturizers

• Straightening gels

• Volumizers

• Pomade or wax

• Silicone shiners

• Hair spray or finishing spray


Blow-Dry Cautions

• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.

• Direct air flow.

• Direct hot air away from scalp.

• Move in back-and-forth motion.

• Partially dry before style blow-drying.


Blow-Dry Procedures

• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair

• Diffusing long, curly hair

• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume

• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.


Thermal Hairstyling

• Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques


Thermal Irons

• Four parts

– Rod handle

– Shell handle

– Barrel or rod

– Shell


Flat Irons

• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across

• Used to create smooth, straight styles


Testing Thermal Irons

• Heat iron.

• Clamp heated iron over tissue.

• Note if paper scorches.

• Let cool as needed.


Care of Thermal Irons

• Wash with soap and water.

• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.

• Oil joint.


Thermal Iron Comb

• Size

• Holding comb


Manipulating Thermal Irons

• Grasp handles with dominant hand.

• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.


Practice with Cold Irons


Other Types of Curls

• Spiral curls– Part hair.

– Insert iron.

– Rotate iron.

– Hold for 4 to 5 seconds.

– Remove iron.


Other Types of Curls (continued)

• End curls.


• Volume-base thermal curls – Section off base.

– Hold strand at 135-degree angle.

– Slide iron over strand.

– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.

– Maintain position for 5 seconds.

– Roll curl and place on base.



• Full-base thermal curls– Section off base.

– Hold strand at 125-degree angle.


– Wrap strand with medium tension.


– Roll curl and place firmly on base.



• Half-base thermal curls– Section off base.

– Hold hair at 90-degree angle.

– Slide iron over hair strand.



– Roll curl and place it half on base.



• Off-base thermal curls– Section off base.

– Hold hair at 70-degree angle.




– Roll curl and place off base.



Finished Thermal Curl Settings


Safety Measures

• Get instructions for use of irons.

• Keep irons clean.

• Do not overheat.

• Test temperature.

• Handle carefully.

• Place hot irons in safe place to cool.

• Don’t place handles too close to heater.


• Properly balance irons in heater.• Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs.• Do not use metal combs.• Place comb between scalp and iron.• Curl only clean, dry hair.• Avoid fishhooks.• Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.

Safety Measures (continued)


Thermal Hair Straightening Types

• Soft press

• Medium press

• Hard press


Analysis of Hair and Scalp

• Wave pattern of hair

• Length of hair

• Texture of hair

• Feel of hair

• Elasticity of hair

• Shade of hair

• Condition of hair

• Condition of scalp


Texture and Feel of Hair

• Coarse, overly curly

• Medium

• Fine

• Wiry


Pressing and Scalp Conditions

• Normal

• Tight (with coarse hair)

• Flexible

• Intake Form


Conditioning Treatments

• Cosmetic preparations

• Thorough brushing

• Scalp massage


Pressing Combs

• Construction• Handles• Teeth• Tempering the comb

– Heat comb.

– Remove comb.

– Coat in oil.

– Cool and rinse.


• Heating the comb

• Testing the temperature

• Attachment

• Cleaning the comb

Pressing Combs (continued)


• Cleaning the comb– Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris.

– Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper.

– Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour.

– Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Pressing Combs (continued)


Pressing Oil Benefits

• Makes hair softer• Prepares hair for pressing• Prevents hair from burning• Helps prevent breakage• Conditions hair after pressing• Adds sheen• Helps retain press


Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair

• 17-17 Soft Curl Press



What to Avoid When Pressing

• Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp

• Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt)

• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp

• Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)


Reminders and Hints

• Keep comb clean and carbon free.

• Avoid overheating pressing comb.

• Test comb temperature.

• Adjust temperature.

• Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin.

• Prevent smoking/burning of hair.

• Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.


Injuries

• Immediate physical damage

• Not immediately evident


Special Considerations

• Pressing fine hair

• Pressing short fine hair

• Pressing coarse hair

• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair


Styling Long Hair: Updos

• Valuable service– Weddings

– Proms

– Other evening events


Client Consultation

• Determine client desires.

• For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring headpiece.

• Suggest trial run.

• If bridal, bring headpiece.


Styling Long Hair

• Knot: also called a chignon

• Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere

• Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist)

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.


Summary and Review

• What is the purpose of finger waving?

• What are the three parts of a pin curl?

• Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.


• Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each.

• What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing?• How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-

drying?• List and describe various styling products used in blow-

drying.• How is volume achieved with thermal curls?

Summary and Review (continued)


• List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons.

• Name and describe three types of hair presses.

• How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service?



• What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing?

• Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed?

• List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair.



You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Congratulations!

chapter 17 hairstyling

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