car tinting manual

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    WJTJPO UJOUT

    Installation Manual

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    If you have bought a pre cut kit you will not need to follow the steps to cut

    the films this will already be done

    All preparation work is done on the outside of the glass the film is fitted

    internally

    Important

    All information provided is as in depth as possible, car window tinting is askilled art involving in depth training. Some cars are relatively easy to tint

    whilst others are extremely difficult. This shows you steps to tinting a car,

    not all cars are the same and will require you to amend the instructions to

    suit the car.

    These instructions are designed as a guide only, they will in no way give you

    the skills to tint vehicles, the only thing that will help you to become skilled

    at car window tinting is this guide combined with a lot of practice and some

    tinkering for different cars. As they say practice makes perfect!

    Notes about the filmCar window tint is designed to be thinner than flat glass films to allow easier

    shrinking, please do not mistake this as thinner means lower quality. All our

    tints come with 1 year, 5 year or lifetime warranty depending on the film.

    You will require:

    A sharp knife with a snap off blade, a hard card squeegee, a scrubbie pad

    and a spray bottle filled with water and a mix of approx 1tsp of Johnsons

    baby shampoo per pint of water (known as slip solution), it may also help

    you to have a bone gasket jammer and a gasket shield (all of these areavailable in our car window tinting installation kits).

    You will also require some lint free cloth. You may also need some talc, a

    bright light and a hot air gun for the rear window and some side windows

    if the window is curved horizontally and vertically. It will also help to have a

    clean dust free area inside, a cutting table and a clean window large enough

    to put each piece of film on.

    Installation Manual

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    Some windows are completely flat and will not require to be heat

    shrunk (heat shrinking is needed when the contour of the glass

    curves horizontally and vertically.

    Installation Manual

    Measure the window

    and make a note.

    Cut down the film, make it between 1-2 longer than required.

    TIP: The film needs to be fitted with the factory straight edges ofthe film at the top and bottom of the glass so that the grain is the

    correct way for heat shrinking.

    Clean the window first and make sure it is completely dry.

    TIP: The film has to be completely dry, and water left on the

    window may cause the film to crease when being heat shrunk.

    Place a small amount of talc on thewindow, then using a dry cloth rub

    the talc over the window leaving a

    thin film all over the glass.

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    Wet a cloth and ring out so damp but not dripping.

    Put a line of water horizontally

    across the centre of the window.

    Check which side the backing

    liner is on, this can be done bygrinding a corner between your

    teeth or using a piece of sticky

    tape at either side of a corner.

    TIP: If you are having problems heat

    shrinking the top but not the bottom or vice

    versa try moving the centre line up or down

    slightly so that it is closer to the area you are

    having problems heat shrinking.

    Put the film on the window withthe backing liner facing you,

    the line of water will hold the

    film in place.

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    Cut around any obstacles.

    Put the film in place.

    Run the squeegee over the line

    of water so the film is flat to

    this line.

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    Cut round the film so it fits nicely onto the

    glass, the film should still be left over sized

    to allow for shrinkage, we will cut it closer

    once the film has been heat shrunk.

    The film should look like this.

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    Start with the bottom section; heat the film

    with a hot air gun on a high setting andholding it about 25cm (10)s away from the

    glass so that it is moulded to the window.

    Start at the centre of the window and run the

    heat gun from the line to the bottom of the

    glass slowly (about 1 second from the top to

    the bottom) then back up, in a flowing

    movement, continue this moving away from

    the centre to the end of the glass and again

    to the other end of the glass. As you go over

    it more you can start to move the heat gun

    closer to the film. The film should be starting

    to crinkle and follow the contour of the glass.

    Continue doing this until the film seems to fit to

    the glass (dont worry about the appearance of

    the film at this point, it will look crinkled but we

    will sort that out in a moment (see illustration).

    The film will not naturally be able to fit to the

    contour of the glass as its curved horizontally

    and vertically, arrange the film so that there

    are fingers running from the middle to thebottom and to the top of the glass (please

    see illustration).

    TIP: You can not heat shrink fingers out

    horizontally, they must be made to run

    vertically.

    HEAT SHRINKING

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    Smooth the film down with your hand.

    When its smoothed out a little, carefully

    squeegee out with the hard card squeegee.

    Use quite a bit of pressure.

    TIP: Be extremely careful here not to crease

    the film as its easily done, work slowly and

    methodically.

    Lift up the bottom of the film where youve

    heat shrunk and spray generously with water.

    HEAT SHRINKING

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    When the film is flat to the glass you may be

    left with some small fingers, make sure these

    fingers are at the bottom of the film, not the

    side, if they are on the side you will need tomanipulate them to the bottom (you cant heat

    shrink horizontally). These can be heated

    quickly with a heat gun and pushed out with

    the hard card squeegee. Heat the finger

    starting at the peak and work to the bottom,

    do this quickly and then run the hard card

    squeegee over it, if it comes back do the

    process again. Do this until all the fingers

    are removed.

    TIP: Be careful here not to put too much heat

    near the edge of the film as it can cause the

    film to burn.

    HEAT SHRINKING

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    When all the film is flat to the glass we will

    need to trim the film, if you have a dark film

    such as 20% or darker you will probably needto put a light inside the boot so that you can

    see through the film to see the dot matrix or

    the edge of the glass. (not required with

    pre cuts).

    TIP: some cars allow you to be less precise if theres a large area

    of dot matrix it can be overlapped.

    Cut the film down to 1-2mm over the size of the dot matrix (notrequired with pre cuts).

    Do this process again for the top section of the window.

    The film should be clean and flat to the glass.

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    Remove the film and clean down the outside

    of the glass.

    Spray the film and clean down completely witha soft cloth.

    If you have a clean window free, spray this with water and put the film

    on with the backing liner facing away from you. The water will hold

    the film on the glass. If you havent use the outside window of the car.

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    Spray the inside of the window and clean

    down with a scrubbie pad (if you dont use

    our scrubbie pads be careful that the one

    you use wont damage the heated rear

    window elements).

    Dry the edges with a lint free cloth, make sureits completely clean.

    Use the blue max squeegee or hard card

    squeegee to squeegee all the water off the

    window.

    TIP: Make sure to remove any stickers and

    residue, pay particular attention to the dot

    matrix as silicone can sometimes sit inside

    the dots which will stop the film from sitting

    down on the dot matrix as well as it could do.

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    Spray the window completely with a fine mist

    of the slip solution.

    Spray the adhesive with the slip solution.

    Go to the piece of film weve already heat

    shrunk and make sure the backing liner is

    facing you, remove the backing liner if youare unable to remove it try using a piece of

    sellotape at either side of a corner).

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    Put the film with the adhesive side you

    sprayed onto the inside of the glass.

    Now squeegee vertically in the centre of thewindow.

    When its in place spray the slip solution over

    the film and run the squeegee horizontally

    across the centre of the glass to hold the filmin place.

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    Youll now be left with 4 corners that havent

    been squeegeed. Carefully squeegee out

    these 4 corners.

    If any small fingers pop up these can be left

    for an hour to let the film dry a little and then re

    squeegee. If the fingers are over approximately2.5cm (1) these are too big to leave and will

    need to be heat shrunk.

    Hopefully if everything has been done well

    before hand it will be perfectly flat to the glass

    so just wipe round the edges of the window

    to prevent water dripping behind the film.

    TIP: Be careful here as its can sometimes be

    a common place to crease the film.

    TIP: Be careful here as too much heat will

    cause the film to dry out too fast and crease.

    Just use small bursts of heat and then run a

    hard card squeegee over.

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    Job done!

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    Cut the film down slightly over sized.

    Measure the window.

    TIP: Make sure you allow for the angles that

    the window rolls down and that the film mayneed to be slightly bigger than you first think.

    All preparation work is done on the outside of the glass

    - the film is fitted internally.

    Clean the outside of the glass.

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    Place the film over the glass with the backing

    liner facing you.

    Spray the solution onto the outside of

    the window.

    The film should overhang each side apart from the bottom which

    should be set so that the film will overhang the inside gasket by a cm

    so it will go under the gasket.

    Squeegee the centre of the film so it doesntmove to easily.

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    Some cars have a convex window so it curves horizontally and

    vertically and so this will need to be heat shrunk. Have a look at the

    heat shrinking section on the rear window installation guide for tips

    on how to do this.

    Wind down the window slightly, making sure the film doesnt move

    or crease.

    TIP: Be extra careful here, if it moves slightly it can mess the

    whole window up and it can easily crease at the bottom if you

    dont hold it away from the glass.

    Use a sharp knife and cut along the top of the

    glass removing any excess.

    Wind the window Back up being careful not to crease the film.

    TIP: Be careful again not to crease the film, youll need to pull the

    top of the film off slightly so that the film sits over the top of the

    outer gasket, keep an eye that the film doesnt move.

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    Before starting the next section check the window to make sure

    that when you cut the left and right section then open the window it

    doesnt leave any big gaps when the windows open, if the window

    opens and will leave gaps you will need to make sure you cut the film

    appropriately which will be more tricky.

    Cut the left edge along the gasket.

    Now move the whole film left 5mm so its

    overlapping the left gasket that you just cut.

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    Cut down the film tight to the right gasket.

    Take the film off the window and place on

    a cutting surface, wet the surface first and

    then squeegee the film onto the surface so

    its flat (dont remove the backing liner).

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    Using a straight edge tidy up the cuts so that

    they are all neat and tidy.

    Round any corners that arent visible to

    reduce the chance of the film catching

    under the gaskets.

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    Spray the solution on the inside of the glass

    and clean thoroughly using a scrubbie pad

    and blue max squeegee or hard card

    squeegee making sure to remove any

    stickers and residue (a glass scraper can

    come in handy here).

    Dry the edges with a lint free cloth so that

    no dirty water drips down, make sure to

    clean around the gaskets too to make sure

    that there isnt any cross contamination.

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    Spray a mist of slip solution all over the inside

    of the glass.

    Place the gasket shield down the inner

    bottom gasket on the inside of the window.

    Wind the window down slightly so that you can get the film onto

    the top of the window (dont worry about the bottom of the window

    at this time.

    Remove the backing liner from the film spraying the adhesive as

    you remove.

    Place the film on the glass with the adhesive side on the glass.

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    Place the top edge so that it is 1-2mm below the top of the window

    (this will stop it catching when its wound up, tuck the left and right

    edge behind the gasket.

    Using the blue max or hard card squeegee,

    squeegee all the water out starting fromthe top of the window working down.

    Go around the edges with a conqueror

    squeegee if you have one or a hard card

    squeegee.

    Wind the window up slowly making surethat the film doesnt crease or come away

    from the glass.

    TIP: it can help to push on the glass very gently

    when winding up, if you push too hard on an

    electric window it sometimes triggers a safety

    mechanism and the window automatically

    opens which will damage the film.

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    Push the bottom down into the gasket and

    squeegee the rest of the window.

    Go around all the edges with a conqueror if

    you have one to makes sure that the film is

    squeegeed behind the gasket perfectly.

    Dry around the window so that no water

    drips behind the film.

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    If theres any small fingers go around with a

    hard card squeegee, leave till dry if they dont

    go straight down (a small finger is anything

    less than about 2.5cm (1), if theyre bigger

    than this then youll need to make sure you

    get the fingers down before it drys.

    Put masking tape over the window wind

    down handle or electric window button anddont wind the window down for 7 days to

    allow to fully dry.

    TIP: You may be able to use a heat gun to

    get down these small fingers, it will need

    very small bursts of heat as the film can dry

    quickly, if it dries too quickly it may crease.

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    Job done!

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    Installation Manual

    These can be filmed using the same techniques that have been

    used in the previous information on rear and side windows. If

    the windows dont have a dot matrix we recommend using the

    backing liner from a piece of film youve already installed and

    spraying the outside of the quarter panel with water. Squeegee

    the backing liner to the window. This will allow you to easily cutthe backing liner to fit the window and use this as a template.

    Simply spray your cutting surface with water and squeegee a

    piece of film, big enough to cover the quarter panel (without

    removing the backing liner). Now spray the film and squeegee

    the clear backing liner onto the film. You will be left with the

    backing liner flat over the top of the film so you can then cut the

    film out carefully, save the template to be reversed for the

    other side.