canterbury university tramping club -...
TRANSCRIPT
Newsletter Term 2 - 2014
Canterbury University
Tramping Club
CUTC Weekly Meetings: Wednesdays 7:30pm, Kirkwood KF07
Contents
Captain’s Log
TWALK 2014
Memories of TWALK 2012 – Lake Coleridge
Freshers 2014 – Scotties Hut
Snowcraft #1
Cocktail Party
FMC Photo Competition Results
How to Go Tramping with Tom Moore
Avoca Hut – the Tub has Landed!
LOST
Intentions Forms
GODZone Adventure Race
Ode to Strapping Tape
Southern Alps Traverse
Paparoa Ridge Traverse
Committee Contacts
Front cover photo: Dusky Track - Nixie Boddy Back cover photo: Pitching a steep snow cornice above Lyell Glacier, head of Rakaia - Alastair McDowell Editor: Alastair McDowell [email protected] Publisher: Canterbury University Tramping Club, c/o UCSA, PO Box 31-311, Christchurch, NZ Contributors: Kate Wootton, Sam Stephenson, Sharon Hornblow, Tania Seward, Chris Sillars, Hamish Cumming, Glen Baxter, Eva Rengia, Volker Nock, Matthew Falloon, Alastair McDowell, Euan Cox, Nixie Boddy, Tobi Wulff. The Canterbury University Tramping Club Magazine is published and distributed to club members four times per year. Subscription to the club is $20 per year. Contact [email protected] to join CUTC. The magazine invites contributions to the
publication by submitting articles, news,
reviews and photos to
[email protected]. Inclusion is at the
discretion of the editor. The entire contents
of the CUTC Magazine are © copyright and
may not be reproduced in any form, in
whole or part, without the express and
written permission of the publisher. The
publisher accepts no responsibility for the
contents and thoughts outlined by the
contributors. Apologies for any spelling
mistakes, grammatical errors or omission of
the names of contributors. Some format
changes were made to submitted content.
www.cutc.org.nz
Kate realising a longtime goal of climbing Mitre Peak in Fiordland; Sam enjoying the luxuries of fresh milk on Freshers
Hey hey tramps! Hope everyone had a great study break and got out on some great trips. With any luck some
great trips have gone away over the break and everyone’s not been stuck in town for too much of it!
What have you been doing this Easter break? We’ve been climbing beautiful Australian rock. If you’ve done
anything epic / got some great photos / stories or anything of interest and are keen to give a quick talk on your
efforts, let us know. At the very least post your trip photos on the CUTC Facebook page to inspire others to get
out too.
Last term went down swimmingly. Starting off with Freshers, much walking was done, a little beer was drunk
and even a few blisters were earned (I at least had bloody socks by the end of Sunday! -Kate). Bushcraft had to
be postponed due to weather, but we still managed to get a few day trips off into Arthurs Pass. The bathtub
finally made it to Avoca Hut and we teamed up with BIOSOC to work on building a trail at the field station in
Cass.
This term we’ll kick off in style with a cocktail party at a hut! Bring your dancing shoes and your best cocktail
recipes and come help celebrate Kate’s birthday. Later in the term we’ll also have Snowcraft 1, where you can
come learn essential basic mountaineering techniques, such as walking with crampons, using ice axes and self-
arresting. These will be invaluable for helping you get to spectacular places above the bush line this winter! On
that note, Penny Goddard is coming to talk to us about
avalanches at the first meeting back. She literally wrote the
book on avalanches in NZ, so definitely a talk worth coming to.
But best of all, this term we have TWALK!!! If you haven’t
signed up yet, go do it now. This is our biggest and best event
and one you don’t want to miss! The three best events of my
undergrad were all Twalks. Find yourself a team, come up with
an epic costume idea and get ready for 24hrs of running
around in a mystery location deciphering cryptic clues to find
small pieces of ice cream containers! If that doesn’t sound quite
like your cup of tea, helping out on the cooking team is as much
fun as running around, and then you’re always in the thick of
things. Talk to Sharon ([email protected]) if you’re interested
in doing that.
Captain’s Log
Justin negotiating an avalanche prone slope above the Lyell Glacier, en route to Garden of Allah
On a similar note, if there’s anything you’d like to see at a meeting let us know. There are a few good short films
about adventurers and conservation efforts that we’ll have on at some point. If people are keen to do a bit more
learning we could arrange a basic first aid demonstration, camp stove building session or anything else you can
think of.
We finished the term with a photo competition for the FMC and had an impressive set of stunning photos
submitted. Our own photo competition will continue ‘til the end of this term, so get your camera out and send
us your photos! Our first set of T-shirts arrived before the break and we have two more designs ready for the
beginning of this term. Come pick one up at a meeting and proudly show you’re a member of the legendary
CUTC!
We’d quickly like to welcome our new committee members as well. Alastair and Victor have worked hard over
the break to put together this newsletter, Alex is our new Environmental officer, Alyce is joining Tania at the
treasurer’s table, and Jarren and Ben are our new general committee members.
Finally, another plug for trip reports! We’ve had a number over the last term which is awesome, but we always
want more! Get writing, even if they’re just short or mostly photos. Or get extravagant and write an epic
ballad! Check out what has been submitted so far at cutcnz.wordpress.com.
That’s all for now! See you in the hills…
Kate Wootton and Sam Stephenson
I hope all these epic storms have prepared you all for the epic that is TWALK. Not that this year’s TWALK will be stormy, just metaphorically so. Perhaps emotionally and spiritually, too. Anyway, I've been instructed to update you all with useful information, so…
Yes, we want you to enter as early as possible so we can avoid last minute kerfuffle and annoying our lovely sponsors with vast changes in numbers. No this will not mean places are super-limited a la Kepler Challenge, but we're hoping the more dedicated among you get in quick so we can figure out how we're going to feed 200 or 300 people…
With that out of the way, I hope you're all working on the best costumes ever (might pay to make them rain-proof given recent events) and are getting all excited and telling your friends about this event, and encouraging anyone who's on the fence to at least join the cook team! Talk to Matthew Falloon (the happy bearded chap).
For those of you who have expressed concern about flights to catch. We can all but guarantee we'll have you back in Christchurch by 4pm, hopefully earlier. If you have special transport
needs (e.g. you're from OUTC) and MUST bring your own vehicle please let me know numbers entered and how many are not taking the buses so we know for bookings.
Please check out the info, especially the Twalk rules (seriously, it's important everyone in your team knows what they're in for and personal safety requirements).
T-shirts are available to order from today until the end of next Friday (9th), see design above. BONUS: The default is black but it is possible to get other colours (navy, grey, red, weird-salmony-pink) if you ask me nicely. Sizing is 'mens/unisex' XS-XXXL and 'womens' XS-XXL. We've had to put early closure on orders due to change in printing this year. So if you want one please order and pay asap. We will order a few extras for any lovely volunteer cooks and hash-house helpers and any tardy entrants who really want one
Sharon
P.S. Good news this year if you're the type that requires sleep - there is heaps of space for tents and a HUGE woolshed this year
Team JAFAS descend the last ridge to the Hash house during TWALK 2012 - Lake Coleridge
TWALK 2012 – the Year of the Peregrine – Lake Coleridge
By Alastair McDowell
We had heard horror stories of blisters, accidental sleep-ins, midnight gut hurlers and more. Should we dare stray from the path of simply ‘walking’? Or could we, mere trampers, transcend to higher places, and attempt to ‘Twalk’?
Saturday morning, fifty teams in flourishing and hilarious costumes were deposited with maps on the road-side just over Porters Pass. Our first mission was to navigate ourselves to the Hash House nearby Lake Coleridge. Hash house... a special woolshed churning out an eternal supply of food thanks to some special volunteers. A constant flurry of food appeared... hot lasagne, fresh pizza, chunky soup, warm muffins, coffee, cereal, sandwiches... this was our main driving source as we collected the first 16 checkpoints hidden in boggy streams, under thick matagouri scrub, rocky outcrops on scree slopes, and generally in the most difficult and awkward locations. But our rewards were in the form of spectacular Canterbury scenery, new vistas appearing around each corner. On the dry scree tops the autumn sun was scorching, and after the opening fanfare of costumes wore off we soon found ourselves peeling off awkward
kid-sized helmets, James packed away his straw sack, and Helen itched at her face paint. Our self-inflicted inconvenience seemed insignifcant compared to carrying a giant paper-maché Donut on your shoulders as one pair impressively pulled off. Delicious.
Navigating on the 1:50 000 topographical map was difficult, even one contour line represented 20 metres in height change. Luckily, the good folks setting the T'Walk (pronounced "twork") had provided us with a set of incredibly useful cryptic clues. "Mucking around with mason" translated to a small muddy, rocky stream gulley in an otherwise featureless hillside. "Follow the bees from the door to the coleslaw" meant us to follow the fence posts from a farm-gate to a cabbage tree - we found the plastic token at the base of a fence post just after brutalising an innocent cabbage tree. Ironically, the clues only made complete sense after the clue was found, at the very least this made for a long slightly frustrated sigh at the cleverness of the setters. One of the highlights was surely the arising of the supermoon - a full fifteen percent closer - the glowing round slowly revealed itself from hiding beyond the
Craigieburn Range. Our shadows were tossed across the tussockland at the low moon angle, so bright that our head torches were mostly useless except for clue-searching. So we kept the moon as our guide as we carried on with the never-ending mission... into twelve hours of night. Fog had moved in behind the Peregrine shiner, this not only reduced visibility but forced me to extrapolate my mountain tops before I could take any compass bearings. It’s a hard time navigating in the dark, sleep-deprived eyes wander from the map to the back of my eyelids. Every so often an uneven step on the rough ground jolted me back into focus. As many as 16,17,18 hours of constant walking and jogging sent us into extreme bouts of fatigue, the relief and joy of every checkpoint that we discovered was all the more intense. As we
stumbled upon a huge green water tank we all laughed, and groaned - why? Searching far and wide for the "Incredible Hulk", our exhausted imaginations could only envision an abstractly shaped bush or tree...
It’s always a special experience, witnessing the slow arrival of dawn. Although fog delayed the 7am rise, it was
the same fog that kept us relatively warm all night stalking the fields. Sunday morning was a different story.
After a brief scoffing session of cold porridge and hot coffee
(anything tastes good after a hungry night), we emerged into a
glorious mid-morning arena.
With forty minutes on the clock to finish, we were cutting it fine to find the "Queen Flax" in one annoyingly flax-filled field. The moment that Helen heard her code word call - "let's go Scarlet", - everyone slid on a silent smile. Our 42nd control was bagged and the Hash house was soon in sight... It was with huge grins that we four slept on the pebbly yard waiting for the bus, baking in rich Canterbury sun.
FRESHERS 2014! Scotties Hut, St James Ranges
Winter has arrived and so has the snow! Don’t stick to the valleys –
climb up to the ridges and peaks! Snowcraft will empower you to step
above the bush-line and begin your love affair with mountaineering…
What will you learn? How to use crampons and ice axes, self-
arresting, avalanche awareness, climbing mountains!
Where? Mt Hutt skifield
When? May 25th 2014
“The higher you climb, the harder the wind blows”
Glen Baxter – CUTC Instructional Officer
SNOWCRAFT
It's that time of the year where I give being organised a go, so in the spirit of not been totally useless, we should all go and get drunk together in the bush somewhere! The theme is "Anything But Cups Cocktail Concoctions" where the aim is to bring the most ridiculous vessel you can imagine, and make delicious cocktails in it!
It'll be an easy 3 hour walk in to Lake Daniell in the Lewis Pass region. We will leave Christchurch at 9:30am from the UCSA car park on Saturday May 10th. The hut there has around 24 bunks, but If you have a tent then bring it, as I have no idea how many poor unsuspecting members of the public will be there to have their peaceful weekend plans cluster-f*#ked by our shenanigans. BYO cocktail ingredients and food for a pot luck, winners will be judged by how magnificent and impractical their vessels are. Bring the usual overnight kit and remember that Winter is Coming so either pack something warm or compensate with copious amounts of hard liquor and spooning. Tables and people will be traversed, dignity will most probably take a back seat, you will meet a bunch of awesome guys and gals, there will be music and most importantly; you will have a good time! Look forward to seeing all you beautiful people there! Cheers! Gandalf, your friendly but slightly inept Social Wizard a.k.a. Christoofar Sillars
Anything But Cups Cocktail Concoctions
FMC Photo Competition Results Above the Bushline
Stormy Sunrise above Lewis Pass - Tobi Wulff
Delta Sunset - Alastair McDowell
Below the Bushline
May there be just enough clouds in your life to create a glorious sunset - Nixie Boddy
Ladder of Light - Aaron Chinnery-Brown
Hut and Camp Life
Three Men in a Tub – Kate Wootton
Camp at McCoy - Alastair McDowell
Outdoor Landscape
Sunset on Mason Bay - Tobi Wulff
Orion - Kate Wootton
Historic
Potts Hut Corrugated Iron - Volker Nock
Native Flora or Fauna
Sexy and I know it! - Nixie Boddy Mueller Keas – Hamish Cumming
How to go tramping with Tom Moore – Journey to the Tarn Col
By Tania Seward
1. Decide to go on trip at the last minute
2. Arrive at Edwards Valley to find river in flood.
3. Drive to Hawdon Valley instead
4. Cross flooded rivers in valiant attempt to reach Hawdon Hut
5. Arrive at Hawdon Hut. Unpack 2 dozen beer, 4 litres of wine and two bottles of whisky.
6. Ignore concerned looks from other trampers about vast quantity of alcohol taken to hut.
7. Meet A Bumwhacker Called Harriet (long story.)
8. Drag sorry carcass up to Tarn Col to look at the view.
9. Tarn Col view mostly obscured by cloud. Do the can-can dance instead.
10. Halfway back to Hawdon Hut, break out into an acapella version of Bohemian Rhapsody.
11. Play Uno at hut, while drinking wine.
12. Play Spoons at hut, while drinking whiskey.
13. Head back downriver to cars. Laugh and frolic in placid rivers that were a raging torrent two days earlier.
14. Agree that it was a pretty awesome three day tramp, and if you didn't come, you totally missed out.
Avoca Hut – the Bathtub has Landed
After three long years of waiting, the bath tub has
finally been laid to rest at its rightful home, CUTC’s
very own club shelter – Avoca Hut.
Three parties consisting of over 25 trampers set
out on the difficult journey to Avoca from Klondyke
taking various routes: a medium route along Bealey
Spur and down Jordan Saddle; a hard route party
climbed the chossy Gizeh Col and descended much
moraine into the head of the valley.
While the trampers battled the terrain, a fleet of
three 4WDs captained by current Hut Officer Ethan
Lancaster drove up the long gravels of the Avoca to
the previous resting place of the bathtub, where previous groups of CUTC folk had valiantly carried
the 200kg cast iron tub. Despite a broken axle and extremely rough driving conditions, the tub was
deposited at the base of the final section of track to Avoca
early in the afternoon. The Jordan Saddle party arrived at
this point to help haul, heave, drag, push and carry the
bathing device the remaining 500m towards the beckoning
hut.
Volker Nock, former CUTC Hut Officer, was seen crying as the
tub was finally lowered onto the hallowed grounds of the
club’s sturdy four-man, a long-time dream finally realised.
Many other upgrades were also installed at the hut, including
an improved drain. The hut’s condition is now the best it has
seen in years, ready and waiting for the oncoming winter
barrage of trampers, hunters and remote hut appreciators.
However, among the joy that Avoca received, one poor tramper in the medium group was dealt a very
rough ordeal. During the Bealey Spur ascent, she unfortunately found a pace too fast for the slower
division, and too slow for the faster group. She was not officially assigned to either group, and thus
neither group noticed her absence. Upon reaching the
Jordan-Avoca junction, she was a long way in between
the two groups. Without a map, she took a gamble on
which direction to turn to Avoca Hut – unfortunately
turning downstream took her further and further from
the party. Later that evening Ethan and Enda led a
search party for the missing tramper. Enda returned
from Jordan saddle at 2am, exhausted and empty
handed. Ethan forged on downvalley, found the Basin
Hut book signed, but empty. The lost tramper was found
safe the following morning at the Avoca road end. The fleet of 4WDs making their way up the stony Avoca river valley
Chris Sillars, leader of the CUTC Royal Workout, shows his strength while hauling the bath tub up the final section of steep track to the hut
Avoca Hut now proud owner of a cast-iron bath tub
How to avoid it and What to do if it happens
to you.
By Kate Wootton
Getting lost on a trip, on your own or with the group, can be a frightening and potentially dangerous experience. It is therefore a good idea to avoid it! This is far from a comprehensive manual on how to stay safe in the outdoors (see the committee and come on our instructional trips if you’d like some more resources on that!) but here are a few useful tips. 1. Know where you’re going First of all, it is essential that the leader at least knows where you’re headed! Take a map, familiarise yourself with it, and refer to it while on the trip especially if the trail is not well marked or you’re not on a trail! Ideally everyone on the trip should know where you’re going. Take a look at the map at home before you leave so you know what to expect. Print off your own map or ask to look at the map while on the trip - it’s not unheard of to make mistakes in navigation, so the more people who are informed as to where you are, the easier it is to stay on track. 2. Stay together This is super important, particularly if you’re less experienced or not certain of where you’re going and don’t have a map! Stay in sight and hearing distance of someone who knows where they’re going. Don’t be shy, let others know if they are going too fast. Similarly, keep an eye on people behind yourself who might be falling behind. This is especially important in difficult terrain such as dense bush or narrow stream beds. Have a conversation about where you are going and where you will stop to take breaks along the way, for instance if you are all meeting at a hut for lunch. If someone charges off ahead of everyone it can be hard to tell if they are just ahead of you or lost. Take a whistle - if you get lost it’ll make much more noise than you can by yelling. A torch is also an invaluable thing to have, even if it’s just a day trip. 3. Stop, think, survive and thrive! If you get lost, stop and consider your situation before bashing around in circles and getting more lost and
exhausted. If you decide to move, leave signs so searches can find you or you can find your own way back to
that spot. Bend ferns over on themselves, use sticks or rocks to make arrows indicating your direction, stick
food wrappers on branches (the one time it’s okay to litter!). Stay with your pack. This contains everything you
have access to for survival and you may find you want it a few hours after leaving it behind when it gets dark
and cold. If you’re in a group, don’t split up. Use your whistle to call for help, or flash your torch if it’s dark and
you can hear searchers. If you’re in the forest, try shaking a tree to catch attention, especially if you hear a
helicopter. A bright jacket/tent fly/pack liner laid out in an open area is also very visible from the air and will
help you be spotted. It’s often best to stay put rather than getting yourself more lost. Consider the conditions
and environment. Is it going to get dark soon? You might end up spending a night out and should consider
finding/building shelter. Is it cold or raining? You’re definitely going to want shelter. Are you safe where you
are from things like avalanches or rising rivers? You may want to relocate to a safer area.
4. Don’t Assume Don’t make assumptions and blindy stick to them. Don't assume you are on the right ridge line and simply continue on merrily. Don’t assume that someone is just 5 minutes behind you, that you can make the hut before that storm hits… Continually review your situation. A degree of on the spot consideration (map, compass, simple common sense) can keep people from getting lost in the first place.
LOST
INTENTIONS FORMS – PLAN – PREPARE - SURVIVE The Purpose of an intentions form is to assist Search and Rescue (SAR) to locate a missing person or persons who may be injured or just lost somewhere in the bush. A well filled out intentions form could mean the difference between finding someone in time or not. The club runs an intentions system known as BASE which operates on the club website (http://www.cutc.org.nz/baseform.php). Other organisations also run intention form systems and you may even want to just leave them with someone you know and who will act on them if you become overdue. A good example of an intentions form:
Party: Podric Payne 025 333 5555
Olenna Redwyne 025 296 7777
When: Leaving Thursday 23rd June 9am, back evening of the 27th 10pm.
Where: Walking the St James track starting from the Cannibal Gorge end. We intent
to stay at the Ada Pass hut on the night of the 23rd, the Anne hut the next night.
We will proceed over the Anne Saddle to the Rokeby hut arriving there on the
evening of the 26th and finishing the trip at Boyle Village late on the 27th.
From reading this we could determine where the group was going in sufficient detail to start an effectively search for them. Any SAR operation will now know where to look for hut book entries and were they might be if no sign is found. Additionally it is good to add a note if there is something you want to do, climb a particular mountain, visit a particular hut and so on, that is somewhat off the intended track and you’re not sure if you'll have time to do it. That way if you the party does decide to take a slightly different route SAR will know of it as appose to having to guess where you've gone. You would be best noting which way you're going in hut books as appropriate.
Extra details that could be useful to add to a form - Car details: including where it or they will be parked with licence plate numbers. This is one of the first things looked for when starting a search, if there is a car still in a car park it's likely the party is still on the track, and a search should begin. - Details of what emergency gear you have: cell phones, GPS, Personal locator beacon or PLB (with registration number), Extra food, emergency shelter, tents, warm sleeping bags, waterproof solar charged satellite phone and so on. It's useful for searchers to know what you have, not just because it'll help you but what you have will influence your decision making process. Someone with a tent might stop in a random place to sleep if it gets dark while someone without might press on to a hut then believe is nearby and so on. - Medical issues. If someone requires medication SAR can bring that in if they know about it. Various conditions can effect a person’s perceptions and judgment as well and they would be good to know about. - Alternate Plans: It is good to include some thoughts on what you'll do if things are not as expected. You'll head down this valley if the saddle is too snowbound, you'll leave a note on the sign at the track junction if you decide to go a different way, if the river is too high you'll turn around and head back to the hut and so on. I hope this article helps those of you (which should be all of you) who use intentions forms when going out into the bush, especially those parties without PLB’s as it’ll likely be the only thing that will save you, fill them out better. Even though we hope never to need to make use of the information contained in an intentions form the possibility is always there, as several members of the club committee can attest to, that SAR will need to know where someone has gone either because they are in trouble or someone believes they are overdue. Being able to provide accurate information quickly to the right people in those situations is extremely important.
“Be Safe Out There”
Mathew Falloon - Gear Officer
The GODZone: 500 kilometres of non-stop adventure racing. Big mountains, long roads, fierce rivers, extreme sleep deprivation. On foot, bike, raft and kayak. It’s overwhelming. But the challenges that really make you scared are the only ones worth doing! I teamed up with Tim
Farrant and Elisha Nuttall from Christchurch and Emily Wilson from Wanaka - together we were Team Next Generation.
Top navigators and multi-sporters, I was in good hands - all I had to do was keep up. Race day, and the elusive course was
finally released: a giant loop starting & finishing in Kaikoura - 11 stages including climbing Tapuae-o-Uenuku, mountain
biking the Molesworth valley, rafting the Hurunui, rogaining the Cheviot coastline, and sea kayaking home…
Our team faltered near the start enduring an extra 2 hours of hike-a-bike up a steep hill. 17th place, we reeled in the competition traversing Tappy east-to-west and into 10th place down the 100-mile Molesworth ride. Cunningly, we carried kayak paddles over the 40km Glynn Wye mountain trek to gain a speed advantage down the 101km Hurunui river raft. However, bush-bashing with long paddles is highly discouraged. Fending off our rivals by beating the river dark zone, we fought out a stiff battle with GO Team for 7th place along the Kaikoura Coastline rogaine, the raging Waiau river plying us apart. This fifth night of barely no sleep, we quelled our sleep demons with endless surges of caffeine and guarana, but Tim still crashed into a road bridge on the MTB necessitating a quick powernap. Schools of dolphins followed our sea kayaks home around the Kaikoura Peninsula as we landed ashore for 8th place after 120 hours on the go and only 12 hours sleep. It's amazing what the body can do if you keep it fuelled and motivated. Soon after finishing we fell asleep and didn't wake up for a long time. GODZone Kaikoura - you beauty.
By Alastair McDowell
Strapping tape, O' strapping tape,
Today for you we celebrate.
Cuts and wounds you always fix,
To aches and pains it wraps and sticks.
Oh leucoplast, you hold steadfast,
Keeping all the good bits in.
All's well until it's time to tear,
The hair right from my skin.
Time and time again you're there,
Through summer winter spring and falls,
Great comfort from secure grip,
You keep the chaffing, from my balls.
Poem: Chris Sillars. Photos: Hamish Cumming.
Ode to Strapping Tape
Joy and suffering in the Nelson Lakes…
The Southern Alps form the long, mountainous backbone of the South Island stretching from St
Arnaud to Milford Sound. One particular section of the Alps has caught the imagination of many, with
so many possible route choices and hidden gems waiting to be unearthed. Offering one of the longest
stretches of untouched wilderness in the country, a transalpine journey from Arthurs Pass to Mt Cook
is real adventure, taken by the scruff of the neck.
The Waimakariri valley forms a natural ‘gateway to the Alps’, the perfect place to begin such a
journey. The progression from tussocky hillsides by the road-side to snow-capped peaks on the Main
Divide is a brilliant illustration of the contrast you experience as you stride over the river gravels,
until the mountains grow nearer, terrain steeper, until finally you straddle the spine herself. Tent
camp by Ariel Tarns on Harman Pass gave us a chance to observe the contrast of the opposing flanks
of the Alps on the first of many spectacular nights in the mountains. The notorious Kea welcomed us
warmly; some tent fly and one sock our donation to her
midnight meal.
A storm threatened as the Griffiths Stream fell away at our
feet, and Hokitika Saddle gifted us passage back into the
West Coast. From the top of this steep icy couloir we viewed,
with apprehension, the wild new territory for the following
days. Close downstream of the remote and rarely visited
Mungo hut, sulphur filled our nostrils – hot springs – if only
we could find more than a measly warm dribble. Post defeat
and fording the Brunswick, the stench returned and we
found the source – a boiling, steaming pit. Once soaking, the
rain hardly affected our mood.
The Bracken Snowfield is nestled in the
Adams Wilderness area, and is a coveted
destination for trans-alpine trampers. The
view of Mt Evans from Cave Camp is
irresistible, and urges you to meet her close
up from the 2000-metre snow plateau.
Nearby, Mt Whitcombe ramps up along an
inviting northeast ridge, before plunging a
sheer 1500 metres to the Ramsay glacier
moraines below; a face that attracts fear
and awe. Unsettled spring weather spoiled our dreams of ascending these majestic peaks, but in
consolation allowed us a calm twelve hours of mountainous travel in a misty atmosphere. As we
turned our attention to the more accessible red rock of Lauper Peak, avalanches thundered
continually through the fog, plunging down Whitcombe’s terrible flanks.
While resting under the shelter of Lyell Hut, one of the oldest original structures of the Southern Alps,
our satellite phone began to sing out a new and welcome tune: fine spells, light winds. This golden
forecast was an absolute blessing given our ambitious goal – to traverse the entire length of the
Gardens of Allah and Eden. The difficult access to the Gardens is one the reasons why these high
alpine snowfields are so elusive. The reward is a
magical place full of unique glacial terrain, above
which rise with scores of peaks. A narrow but
sufficient three days of fine weather forced us to
race over the plateau before the next storm rolled
in from the west.
As the snows of Eden wore thin to the west, our
final challenge reared before us: to climb the Great
Unknown We gained the peak as the threatening
westerlies of a new storm brewed, with just
enough time to descend into the hanging valley of
Elizabeth Creek. Redfield stream is not for the faint hearted – two kilometres as the crow flies became
a seven-hour struggle on thin, steep scree, with treacherous waterfalls and difficult down-climbing
through thick bush.
Twenty days into the expedition, we finally
emerged into civilization to restock supplies in
the small west coast town of Harihari. Now all
that remained was to pull off the elusive
Whataroa - Tasman crossing. Research on the
route uncovered few accounts of parties using the
Whataroa Saddle in the past decade, so we
staggered up the rugged tracks to Whymper Hut
with much trepidation. It was with massive relief
when we rapped from the saddle on a bomber piton and slings, and easily hopped the well-covered
schrund onto the Classen Névé of the east, and strode onto the Murchison.
Early dreams of ascending Mt Cook to top off the
traverse were put aside at Tasman Saddle Hut,
where we soaked up the ambience of the upper
Tasman, culminating in a rich red sunrise from
Hochstetter Dome. Ten hours down the long
glacier passed as snow turned to ice and finally
the dreaded moraines. We were adamant the
dozens of planes overhead were missing out.
Aoraki's glistening east face towered above us;
the traverse was at last complete.
We did not conquer the Alps. We did not pioneer any new routes in the Alps. Rather, we weaved our
way through its wilderness, treading softly so as not to destroy that which we can never create.
First round of thanks go to my three fantastic companions: Andy Thompson, Hamish Cumming, and
Justin Loiseau for joining me on this epic journey along the Alps. Cheers to Bruce Dando of Kokatahi
Choppers for ferrying in our food, and Wildside Backpackers for hosting us in Harihari. Finally a
massive thanks to FMC for their generous sponsorship of our Arthurs Pass - Mt Cook expedition. Get
in your own application for the next round!
Inspired by Kevin Dash and Trevor Johnston’s book ‘Touch the Wilderness’, myself and another
University of Canterbury Tramping Club member, Matt Hanson, set out in early March of this year to
attempt a N-S traverse of the Paparoa Range. As a keen tramper and geologist working primarily
between the Buller and Grey Rivers, these cloud covered tops had often caught my eye, and my
curiosity grew in noting the conspicuous absence of huts and tracks crossing through the heart of the
range – an oddity in a country renowned for its network of backcountry trails and shelters.
With the help of a Youth Expedition
Scholarship from the Federated Mountain
Clubs of New Zealand, we packed up our kit
and embarked from the Buckland Peak car
park on March 9th, and finding the ridge to be
tough going, began what was essentially a long
sidle from Westport to Greymouth. In fact, of
the 20 or so named peaks along the tops, we
summited only two. Instead of walking the
ridge, our route relied heavily on the alpine
basins and benches, alternating between and linking up the less-steep slopes of the east and west side
of the range. Forays below bush line also proved challenging, and animal trails, when found, were of
great help in avoiding obstacles, especially in low visibility.
Speaking of animals, we were not alone on our
walk. Each day we encountered dozens of
goats, whose stubborn snorting made their
presence known even in thick cloud. We also
heard Kiwi calls from several of the lower and
larger tarns we camped alongside. Further
south, there was also the occasional crash of a
startled stag.
Paparoa Range Traverse
By Nicholas Riordan
The northern and southern halves of the Paparoa Range proved to be distinct in many ways. The
north being built of granitic and gneissic buttresses and spires surrounding glacially carved cirques
falling away to incised U-shaped valleys. In contrast, the southern half is composed of softer
sandstone, coal, and conglomerate, which form gentler ridges regularly dipping below the bush line.
These more vegetated tops also show hints of previous human travellers – a few sawn limbs, a
weather station, and a handful of well-worn trig.
After 9 days of walking, we wandered out the Croesus Track, in need of a good feed and couple new
pairs of shorts. My favourite part of that day was the hitch back to Christchurch, where a young man
from Atarau picked me up, and when I mentioned where we’d been, said he knew a couple of fellas
who’d been up that way – yup, one of the authors of ‘Touch the Wilderness’ used to drive his school
bus. We had a good chuckle while cruising into the rain up and over the pass, saying farewell to the
West Coast and hoping we’d both be back soon.
…of the twenty or so named peaks along the tops,
we summited only two…
Committee Contacts 2014
Tania Seward
Canterbury University Tramping Club
c/o UCSA Room 123, James Hight Building, University Drive
Christchurch, New Zealand