blouse drafting
DESCRIPTION
BLOUSE DRAFTING FOR WOMENTRANSCRIPT
i
MODULE 2
103.KK.02
BLOUSE PATTERN MAKING
STANDARD COMPETENCE : PATTERN MAKING
BASIC COMPETENCE : BLOUSE PATTERN
MAKING
WRITTEN BY:
HENNY, S.Pd.
NIP 196909101994032007
PALEMBANG GOVERNMENT
THE MINISTRY OF EDUCATION, YOUTH AND SPORT
STATE VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL 6 PALEMBANG Jl. Major Ruslan Telp./Fax. (0711)350954, Production Unit (0711)378991
Hotel (0711)378993 Palembang 30114
Website: www.smkn6palembang.net E-mail: [email protected]
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PREFACE
Always our gratitude to Allah SWT have mercy and grace so the authors
could complete this module properly.
This module is entitled “Pattern Making” which consists of 4 parts,
namely:
1. Skirt Pattern Making Module
2. Blouse Pattern Making Module
3. Shirt Pattern Making Module
4. Vest Pattern Making Module
This module includes material about definition, guideline in pattern making
appropriate to design and steps to make draft material.
Authors realize that this module is still far from being perfect. Therefore,
all suggestions and constructive criticisms will be greatly appreciated and well-
received. Last but not least, Authors thank to all people has participated in the
preparation of this module. I hope this module will be useful for teacher and
students in State Vocational High School 6 Palembang.
Palembang, April 2012
Author,
HENNY, S.Pd.
NIP 196909101994032007
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CONTENTS
PAGES
PREFACE ........................................................................................................... ii
CONTENTS ........................................................................................................ iii
MODULE POSITION MAP ............................................................................... iv
GLOSSARY ........................................................................................................ v
CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION
A. Description .................................................................................. 1
B. Prerequisite ................................................................................. 1
C. Module User’s Guide .................................................................. 1
CHAPTER II LEARNING ACTIVITY
A. The Objectives of Learning ........................................................ 2
B. Student Lesson Plan .................................................................... 2
C. Material Description ................................................................... 2
D. Practice Assignment ................................................................... 13
E. Formative Test ............................................................................ 13
F. Summary ..................................................................................... 13
REFERENCES ................................................................................................. 14
iv
MODULE POSITION MAP
BASIC VOCATIONAL
COMPETENCE
v
GLOSSARY
1.
2.
3.
4.
Design
Lining
Kup
Drafting
=
=
=
=
Structure of form, plan, motif
Is coating material fabric which covers main material
in part or in whole.
Folded line to form women’s body
The estimation of materials used
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
A. Description
By learning this module, students are expected to have knowledge and skills
about techniques and steps to make blouse pattern based on design, they are
able to:
1. Analyze blouse design
2. Take blouse measurement
3. Make basic body pattern with scale 1:4
4. Make blouse pattern in according to design with scale 1:4
5. Make draft materials
B. Prerequisite
Before learn this module, students should be learnt supporting modules. The
modules include taking measurement and making women basic pattern.
C. Module Instruction
The instructions for students about how to learn this module are:
1. Learning steps should be followed
2. Identify tools and materials to make blouse pattern
3. Analyze blouse design
4. Take measurement for blouse pattern
5. Make basic body pattern with scale 1:4Membuat pola dasar badan
dengan skala 1:4
6. Make blouse pattern according to design with scale 1:4
7. Make draft material
In the end of this activity, students submit their work and packing up their
equipment. Follow all instructions in this module !
2
CHAPTER II
TEACHING AND LEARNING ACTIVITY
A. Objectives
After learning this blouse pattern making module, students are expected to be
able to :
Make blouse pattern based on design
Make draft material
B. Student Lesson Plan
Standard Competence : Making pattern
Basic Competence : Making blouse pattern
Time : 1080 minutes
Learning
activities
Material Time
I
II
III
IV
V
VI
VII
Definition of blouse
Prepare tools and materials to make blouse pattern
Analyze design that will be made
Make basic pattern and pattern drafting blouse with
scale 1:4 Make blouse pattern appropriate with actual
size
draft materials
Packing up equipment practice
20
20
30
360
460
170
20
Total time 1080
minutes
C. Material Description
C.1. Definition of blouse
Blouse is the clothing worn on the upper body, has a cover on the
front or back, worn with pants, skirt, or sarong.
Blouse is broadly classified into 2 types, those are:
1. Outer blouse, the blouse is worn outside the skirt or pants.
3
2. Inner blouse, the blouse is worn by insert it into skirt or pants.
Normally this kind of blouse has a straight model until hip limit
and sometimes more loose than outer blouse
The kinds of blouses according to the time and opportunity to be worn:
1. Blouses for at home, choose a simple design and little ornamental
lines.
2. Working blouses, choose a design which express the impression of
active such as pleated garments.
3. Blouses for recreation, should choose a design that is rather loose
and flexible
4. Blouse for party, choose an attractive design and become attention
centre
C.2. Tools and Materials
Tools:
1. Stationery
Pencil
Ruler
Eraser
2. Pattern Drawing Tools
Hip curve
L-square
Scale
Measuring tape
3. Paper cutting scissors
Materials:
1. Pattern Book
2. Pattern paper / tracing paper
3. Doorslag paper
4. Paper glue
4
C.3. Making a Fabric Basic Pattern
Basic Pattern of Women’s Body Pola dasar badan wanita
Scale 1:4
Make basic pattern for upper and lower body with the following size:
* Body Girth
* Waist Girt
* Neck Girth
* Width of Front
body
* length of
shoulder
= 88 cm
= 72 cm
= 36 cm
= 32 cm
= 13 cm
* Length of Back
* Width of Back
* Height of Chest
* Height of Hip
* Hip Girth
= 36 cm
= 34 cm
= 16 cm
= 18 cm
= 94 cm
5
Description of Pattern
The back pattern
a – b = 2 cm
b – c = the length of back
b – b1 = ½ the length of back
b – b2 = 9 cm
c – d = height of hips
a – a1 = 7 cm
a1 – a2 = length of shoulder
a2 – e = 4 cm
a1 – e = draw line p shoulder
b2 – f = ½ width of back
b1 – g = ¼ Girth – 1 cm
c – c1 = ¼ Waist Girth + 3 cm + 1 cm
d – d1 = ¼ Hip Girth – 1 cm
The front pattern
A – B = 8 cm
A – C = Length of Back + 2 cm
B – B2 = 5 cm
C – D = Height of back
A – A1 = 7 cm
A1 – A2 = Length of Shoulder
A2 – E = 4 cm
A1 – E = Draw line p. shoulder
B2 – F = ½ Width of chest
B1 – G = ¼ Body girth + 1 cm
C – C1 = ¼ Waist girth + 3 cm + 1 cm
D – D1 = ¼ Hip girth + 1 cm
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SKETCH I
SKETCH II
Design Analysis:
Blouse design I is blouse for party
with style modification Javanese
blouse (kebaya)
V - neckline
Sleek long sleeve
Use sengkelit button on the front
The line of front Lining on chest has
heart shape
Dart in the front and back of blouse
Design Analysis:
Blouse design II is blouse for work
Half stand collar
Sleek short sleeve
Use button on the front
7
PATTERN DRAFTING OF BLOUSE DESIGN I
Scale 1:4
1. THE FRONT BLOUSE PATTERN 2. THE BACK
BLOUSE PATTERN
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3. THE FRONT LINING PATTERN 4. THE BACK LINING
PATTERN
5. THE FONT COATING PATTERN 1 6. THE BACK COATING
PATTERN 1
7. PATTERN OF CLEAVAGE 8. PATTERN OF FRONT
LAYER 2
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9. SLEEK SLEEVE PATTERN
Scale 1:4
SIZE:
Armhole girth : measured from L.K the front sleeve blouse + the back :
44 cm
Height of top sleeve : 13 cm
Length of sleeve : 56 cm
The end of arm girth : 24 cm
DESCRIPTION :
A – B = Sleeve length
A – C = Height of top sleeve
A – D = A – E = ½ armhole girth
A – D = Divided by 4
A – E = Divided by 3
B – F = B – 6 = ½ The end of arm girth
10
PATTERN DRAFTING OF BLOUSE DESIGN II
Scale 1:4
1. THE FRONT BLOUSE PATTERN 2. THE BACK BLOUSE
PATTERN
3. SLEEVE PATTERN
4. HALF STAND COLLAR PATTERN
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C.4. Making Draft Fabric
Fabric for party blouse, brocade tile : length 2 m, width 120 cm
12
Lining fabric for blouse party, satin : length 1 m, width 115 cm
13
D. Task Practice
Prepare basic pattern of upper and lower body with your own size!
Make blouse pattern according to design with scale 1:4 !
Assessment
NO. EVALUATION CRITERIA POINTS SCORE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Preparing tools and materials
Accuracy and precision of pattern
Accuracy of pattern size
Accuracy of pattern marking
Cleanliness and neatness of pattern
10%
20%
50%
10%
10%
Total Point 100%
E. Formative Test
Questions
1. What is the definition of blouse as you know!
2. Write down 3 types of size needed to make a sleeve pattern!
Answers
1. Blouse is clothing worn in upper body, having a cover at the front and the
back.
2. Three types of size to make sleeve length pattern are :
1. Armhole girth
2. Width of top sleeve
3. Length of sleeve
F. Summary
Blouse is clothing worn in upper body, having a cover at the front and the
back.
Blouse is usually worn with pants, skirt, or sarong.
Blouse can be made with or without lining.
Blouse is broadly classified into 2 types, those are: outer blouse and inner
blouse.
14
REFERENCES
1. Ernawati dkk, 2008. Tata Busana Jilid 3. Jakarta. Direktorat Pembinaan
Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan.
2. Winarti Z., 1998. Pembuatan Pola Blus. Jawa Barat. PPP6K.
3. Zardawatni, 1996/1997. Pembuatan Blus. Jakarta. PPP6K.
4. Sanny Poespo, 2001. Pola Busana Wanita. Yogyakarta. Kanisius.
Approved by
The Vice Principle of
Curriculum,
Drs. H. Zulfikri, M.Pd
NIP.196406121989031012
Palembang, April 2012
The Subject Teacher,
Henny, S.Pd
NIP.196909101994032007
Acknowledged by
The Principal,
Dra. Hj. Natika, MM
NIP.195612221983032002