betta fish diseases and care tips

This short book is intended to all Betta lovers, but still not covering

all topics in details, especially cure’s for diseases. For the ones who

want to know more or need to for taking better care of their fish on

sidebar is a link of highly recommended e-book with very good

reviews.

Jody Milanovich

Betta Colors

Single Colors

Cellophane

Skin has no pigmentation

The fins are translucent

The organs are flesh-colored/give the

body its color

Albino

Lacks all pigmentation, including the

eyes, which appear to be red

Very rare

White Opaque

Pure white when young

Develop varying degrees of reds as they

age

Yellow

Referred to as �non-red�

Also carries one of the three iridescent

colors

Apricot or Peach Yellow pastels

Orange

Varies in hue

Dark tangerine

Red

Intense red

Normal red, with some black pigments

Steel Blue

Metallic blue

One of the three iridescent colors

Royal Blue Another of the three iridescent colors

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Tank Recommendations

Ideal Water Conditions

Choosing a Healthy Betta

Breeding Betta Fish

Putting Bettas in Vases

Choosing the Right Plants

Setting up Your Tank

Beta Fish Food Guide

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Click here to download now

http://bit.ly/cJnXBe

Darker, with a purple tint

Cornflower Blue Darker head with cornflower blue body

Lavender, Purple,

Violet

Very Rare

Green

Another of the three iridescent colors

Least fixed single color

Turquoise Blue/green

Black

Resulting from two different genes

Melano or Fertile (aka Lace)

Bi Colors

Cambodian

Flesh-colored body

Fins are usually red

Can also be blue and black

Chocolate

Body is dark, black or dark blue

Fins are yellow

Pastel

Different Variations

White body

Fins are green or blue

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Patterned

Butterfly

One half of the fin is one color and the other half

is another.

Marble

Body and fins have blotches of color over a light

colored background

Piebald

Face is flesh-colored

Body can be any color

Multi Colored

This is the type that most pet stores carry. There is no predicting the

colors of their offspring.

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Betta Tails

Another thing that distinguishes different Betta splendens from each

other is the type of tails that they have. They are listed below.

Comb Grooves at the end, not as pronounced as the Crown

Crown Distinguished spiky grooves at the end

Delta Elegant, very long finnage, rounded

Double Two lobes of equal size with appearance of being split

Fuse Extremely rare fusion of the caudal, dorsal & anal fins

Halfmoon Very rare rounded tail that is stretched 180 degrees

Heart Partially fused twin caudal fin

Round or

Fan

Small to medium in size with pronounced rays that

lead up to the end of the tail

Short Finnage that is small

Single Common one-lobed

Veil Most common

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Betta Senses

Vision

A Betta has monocular vision, which means that it can see in two

directions at the same time. Overall, the Betta's eyesight is somewhat

poor. To detect vibrations and get an overall feel for its surrounding,

Bettas use a "lateral line," which runs down their sides.

Hearing

The anatomy of the Betta's ear is fairly simple, consisting of a single

channel. Essentially, a Betta hears vibrations that occur around it and

travel through water. The swim bladder also plays a role in hearing

by interacting with sensory parts within the ear.

Taste

Taste buds are located in the mouth and, believe or not, in the fins!

Smell

Yes, a Betta can smell! Bettas smell through their nostrils, although

the process of "smelling" is separate from the Betta's respiratory

system.

The Labyrinth Organ

This is a special organ that processes oxygen from the air. It is highly

valuable as Bettas evolved in waters with low oxygen content. It is

located within the head just behind the gills. Read more about

the Labyrinth organ here.

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Betta Biology

Betta Fish Picture

Both male and female Bettas basically have the same anatomy. Both

have a cylindrical form, with the anterior part of the body tapering to

a laterally compressed shape. The pelvic fins are quite long and

extended, particularly in the male. The dorsal fin inserts behind the

midpoint of the back, and varies in length from short to moderate. In

domesticated male Betta splendors, this fin can be exaggerated into

a huge sail. Near the pectoral fin insertion, the anal fin is long and

when splayed, it billows out like a large fan, in the same way as the

caudal fin. When at rest, both fins hang down, giving the appearance

of long folded drapes. As a Betta ages, his tail and fins grow longer

and heavier, causing him to become sluggish. He will become

rejuvenated following what is referred to as 'blowing his tail.' He

loses it only to have it grow back with some discoloration and

unevenness. However, the loss of the heavy tail rejuvenates him.

The beard, which is the membrane under the gill plate cover, is

displayed by both male and female when flaring, although the

female's is considerably smaller. Without having the ability to blink,

the Betta's eyes protrude. Their mouths are particularly interesting.

With rows of tiny pointed teeth and powerful jaws, they are perfectly

designed and positioned to both devour and to blow bubbles.

Proportionately, Bettas have bigger and strong jaws than the great

white shark! What is further intriguing about them is the way the

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males gently carry the eggs in their mouths without damaging them

on their sharp teeth.

The internal organs of the Betta splendens, which include the brain,

heart, stomach, liver and spleen, are mostly located between the

head and the beginning of the anal fin. The lower half of its anatomy

is flesh, spine and the swim bladder.

Between these anatomical features and specific behavioral

characteristics, today's Bettas can unquestionably be classified as

members of the suborder Anabantoidei.

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Betta Types - Physical Appearances

Banded

Round tail, small fins

Goldish color

Banded body, greenish splotches

Brunei

Rounded tail and small fins

Green border around anal and dorsal fins

Body Color - gold, pink and/or white

Green pectoral fins

Edith's

Round tail

Short fins

Female - orange with dark spots and white

spots

Male - brighter orange with dark spots and light

spots. Light spots are greenish/blue

Emerald

Round tail and large fins

Bright green body with black web design

Pectoral fins are reddish

Foershi's

Round tail and short fins

Female - pink and orange with dark spots

Male - orange with greenish spots on body

Mouthbrooding

Round tail and small fins (sometimes pointed

tails)

Colors vary greatly

Painted

Round tail, small fins

Gold in color with 3 stripes running horizontally

down body.

Green border around fins

Peaceful

Round tail, long pectoral fins

Dark body with bluish marks

Edge of tail fin is red

Bluish/Green stripes on tail

Pearly Heart shaped tail

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Short fins

Female - bronze with dark spots

Male - lighter bronze, green on fins, dark stripe

from eyes to fins

Sarawak Small, round tail

Short Fins

Siamese Fighting

Fish

Most common pet Betta

Caudal fin has different shapes (round, heart,

split, etc.) and is long

The anal fin can be short or very long

Color ranges greatly

Slender

Heart shaped tail and short fins

Pink

Female - dark spots on tail and fins

Male - green highlights on body and fins

Tessy's

Pink and orange

3 stripes, dark

Greenish fins

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Betta Diseases

Below is a list of common Betta fish diseases and the symptoms of

each. It's important to note that all of the diseases listed below are

caused primarily by inadequate tank conditions. If you maintain a

health tank, then your Betta is unlikely to get sick.

Name Frequency Symptoms

Constipation Common Bloated stomach, won't eat (due to

overfeeding)

Dropsy

More on Dropsy

Uncommon Bloated body and eyes

Fungus Common Fluffy, white, cotton-like growths

on body and/or fins.

Fish Lice Uncommon Round parasites attached to skin

Fin Rot

More on Fin Rot

Common Torn or ragged fins

Gill Parasites Uncommon

Scratching itself on aquarium

objects

Strange swimming patterns

Breathing problems

Ich Common Small white spots on body and/or

fins

Mouth Fungus Uncommon Patchy skin or cotton-like growths

on mouth

Parasites

(intestinal) Uncommon Worms are visible through skin

Pop Eye Uncommon Protruding eye(s)

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Swim Bladder

Disease Uncommon

Swimming sideways or in some

other abnormal way

Septicimia Uncommon no energy, won't eat, red (blood)

streaks on fin and body

Slime Disease Common Grayish slime on body and/or fins

Scratching on aquarium objects

Tuberculosis Uncommon

Colors have dulled

Pop eye (sometimes)

Constricted Fins

Transferable to humans

Velvet Common Gold or grayish color on body or

fins.

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What is Dropsy in fish?

Dropsy in the Betta fish - or in any other fish for that matter - is not

really a disease in itself but a symptom of a specific bacterial

infection. The main symptom of dropsy in fish is a swollen or bloated

condition with the scales standing out like in pine cones. This is a

serious infection and unless appropriate treatment is administered,

the afflicted Betta may well die.

What causes Dropsy in Bettas and other fish?

The bacteria (mostly gram negative) lodge itself in the tissues of the

fish body thus affecting the kidneys and causing the retention of fluid

and water in the body. It is this fluid retention that causes the Betta to

bloat. Another cause of bacterial infection and Dropsy is the

condition of the water in your aquarium. It has the same effects on

the kidney and subsequent swelling of the body.

Care & Treatment of Dropsy in Bettas & other fish

Dropsy is a very serious fish disease symptom and must be treated

with urgency. This and other diseases that afflict fresh or salt water

fish in your aquarium can, if neglected, kill the other species in the

tank too. You may end up having to completely replace your

aquarium! Periodic health checks for Dropsy as well as other serious

fish diseases will always help in keeping your pets healthy and

swimming for years of pleasure!

It is imperative to consult a fish disease expert to find the cause and

to obtain the appropriate treatment for Dropsy in your Betta. On a

lighter note, do not search for Fish Doctor on the internet as you may

end up with information about "Doctor Fish", (the fish species)

instead.

The steps given below will help you in dealing with a case of Dropsy

in your fish tank:

1. Immediately change at least a quarter of the water in the

aquarium. The water must be treated as mentioned in the step

that follows and this water must not be re-used anywhere later

on.

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2. Place the diseased fish into a quarantine tank. You need to

treat the rest of the 'unaffected' fish too - just in case.

3. Administer a prescribed antibiotic to arrest growth of the

infection. Suitable medicines are Maracyn, Kanacyn, Neomycin,

or tetracycline drugs and anti fungicides for treating the tank

water etc.

4. A medicated bath must be given to the fish at least two times a

day with methylene blue, salt, Epsom salt, and electrolyte

balancing salts to ensure removal of fluids from the fish and to

keep electrolytes in balance. The proportion of medicines in

this bath is clearly mentioned on the labels and one can still

confirm the procedure either with the pet shop or the vast

library base on the Internet.

In conclusion, react at the very first signs of Dropsy in your Betta.

Proper care and treatment of the infection will revive your Betta and

other affected fish, allowing you to restore your aquarium to its

original state. If you have just started keeping Betta fish it would be

advisable to study their traits and health precautions so that you

immediately recognize signs of upsets when these occur.

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All about fin rot and how it affects Betta fish and other fish

Fin Rot is one of the most common, yet most preventable aquarium

fish diseases. It often occurs at the same time as other diseases and is

brought about by a bacterial infection.

Symptoms

One of the earliest symptoms of Fin Rot is that the fins start

appearing ragged. As the disease progresses, the fins become

increasingly shorter. Whiteness can be observed at the edges. Cotton

Wool, which is a secondary disease may start developing and will

manifest as a fuzzy growth on the fins. If untreated, the base of the

fins will start becoming red and inflamed, with bloody patches

resulting.

Causes

Fin Rot is most often caused when the Betta are distressed due to

poor water quality, overfeeding, expired food, overcrowding and

rough handling. If the water is not changed regularly, the leftover

food particles and feces will decompose and contaminate the water. If

there are too many Betta in the tank or if too much food is placed in

the tank, even regular water changes may not prevent the disease.

The resultant stress on the Betta, lower their immunity thus making

them very susceptible to attack from the bacteria present in their

water. Only in very rare instances will Betta develop Fin Rot in spite of

an impeccably maintained tank.

Treatment

Once Fin Rot sets in, a complete change of water and a careful

examination of the conditions within the aquarium will be required.

Take everything out of the aquarium and wash all the decorations and

pebbles with hot water. Do not use soap. Follow instructions for

changing the water in the aquarium.

Fin Rot is a bacterial infection and medication is available to cure it.

Some medications that have been successfully used to cure fin rot

include Jungle Fungus Eliminator and Tetracycline.Fin Rot is

contagious. Fish that appear uncontaminated should be separated

from the fish that appear contaminated. It is advisable to place the

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apparently uncontaminated Betta in a separate quarantine tank until

you are very sure that they are healthy. To prevent the disease from

being transferred to your other healthy Betta, do not share nets

between the tanks. Also ensure that everything used in handling

either the sick or the quarantined Betta are washed properly in hot

water before being used for any other fish.

Prevention

Water & Habitat: The water in the tank should be changed every one

to two weeks with all decorations, pebbles etc. thoroughly cleaned. It

is also important to check the ph and the temperature of the water on

a regular basis. All fish, particularly those with long flowing fins such

as the Betta, have a tendency to contract Fin Rot when the

temperature of the water is either too low or too warm for sustained

periods of time.

Food: Check that the food you are feeding your fish is fresh and do

not overfeed. It is far better to give your fish smaller quantities of

high quality fresh food. Feeding your fish too much food at one time

means there will be excess left over food in the water, which in turn

will increase the concentration of bacteria in the water.

Handling: Be gentle and cautious when handling Betta. They are easily

stressed if they are carelessly handled.

Keeping the habitat controlled, clean and stress free is the best way

to ensure Betta's continued health and the Betta owner's continued

enjoyment of this beautiful, showy fish.

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Velvet and how it affects fish

Velvet is one of the most common diseases affecting pet fish and is

brought on by one of the several species of the parasite Oodinium,

and can affect every Betta in the tank before the unsuspecting owner

realizes what is going on. Velvet attacks all kinds of fish, even

newborns. Goldfish, killifish, anabantoids, zebrafish, and danios are

especially susceptible to velvet.

Oodinium provokes fine white pustules on the fish. These pustules

are so fine that they go undetected until the Betta dies. Oodinium is

present in most home tanks, but only becomes a problem when the

Betta fish are subjected to poor water quality, variations in water

temperature or being moved from one tank to another.

Symptoms

1. The Betta scratches itself against hard objects

2. Lethargy

3. No appetite and rapid weight loss

4. Difficulty in breathing

5. Fins do not move freely

6. A rusty-like aspect on skin develops

7. Skin peels off (in advanced stages)

In its early stages, the Betta rubs against hard objects in order to

shake off the parasites. As the disease spreads, the fish becomes all

but inactive, fins are almost motionless, appetite is lost and the fish

ultimately loses weight. Another important symptom is hard

breathing, which causes hurried gilling.

Perhaps the most obvious symptom is the onset of a velvet-like layer

on the skin that looks like gold or rust-like dust. The layer may be

difficult to detect at first, but can be readily seen by casting a

flashlight beam on the fish in a dark environment. The layer is most

often evident on the fins and gills.

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Prevention

1. Place new Betta in quarantine for two weeks

2. Monitor water quality

3. Make sure the fish have a nutritionally balanced diet

Velvet usually only occurs when there is a poor tank environment and

therefore becomes extremely infectious. Placing new Betta in

quarantine for two weeks will significantly diminish the chances of

fouling a healthy tank. Any fish that seems to be infected must be

removed at once and kept in another tank to avoid the spread of the

parasite.

Treatment

1. Keep the water temperature a bit higher than usual

2. Keep the lights dim for several days

3. Add the proper aquarium salt

4. Add copper sulphate to the tank for about ten days

5. Avoid carbon filtration during treatment process

Since Velvet is extremely contagious (and often in advanced stages

before being diagnosed), it is vital to implement treatment measures

as soon as possible.

Copper sulphate is the best type of treatment. It should be used

according to the manufacturer's specifications for the number of days

indicated (usually ten) to make sure that Velvet is completely

eradicated. Using Atabrine (Quinacrine hydrochloride) is another way

to treat Velvet.

Since Oodinium depends on light, dimming the tank lights helps in

the eradication process. Bringing the water temperature to 82

degrees F will also speed the eradication process. Adding salt to the

water will relieve the labored breathing caused by the deterioration of

gill tissue. Like any treatment, carbon must be removed from the

filter, as it will destroy the drugs in the water.

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Betta Tanks

There are glass, plastic and acrylic tanks. I highly recommend acrylic

because they lighter than glass tanks and just as aesthetically

appealing. Glass tanks are heavy and plastic tanks scratch easily and

can become dull and clouded over time.

Acrylic tanks also come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Here a few

examples:

PetSmart.com

A helpful tip - your Betta tank should be no less than 10 gallons!

Anything smaller is simply not adequate. Smaller sizes reduce water

stability within the tank.

Below is an excellent package I found at PetSmart. It's a bit

expensive, but if you are serious about creating a wonderful

environment for your fish and intend to pursue the hobby of fish

keeping, then it's a very good investment.

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Ideal Water Conditions for Betta Splendens

Water in a fish tank needs to be changed regularly. Although proper

filtration keeps the tank water clean and pure, it does not take away

trace elements such as phosphates that accumulate in the water.

Fresh water also replenishes the potassium, zinc, calcium and iron

that had been depleted from the existing water in the tank.

When to change the water in a tank:

Under normal conditions the water in the tank should be changed

either once a week or once every two weeks. Do not change all the

water at one time - this is likely to cause more harm than good.

Replacing 10% of the water weekly or 15 to 20% every two weeks is

just right. Smaller amounts of water changed frequently are much

better than large amounts of water changed rarely. The reason for

this is that large amounts of fresh water change the chemistry of the

existing water, resulting in additional stress on the fish.

How to change the water in a tank:

Vacuum the gravel to remove all leftover food that will decay and

cause pollutants like phosphates and ammonia. Pick up every

decoration and rock, and vacuum under them, being extra careful not

to suck up any fish that are hiding there. If your filter system is under

the gravel, then you should vacuum more frequently to prevent the

formation of nitrates. Now would also be a good time to scrape off

the excessive algae from the glass and also from the various

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decorations. It is important to use an absolutely clean, non-abrasive

and soap-free brush or sponge that is kept exclusively for the

purpose of cleaning the tank.

Bearing in mind how much water you intend changing, measure out

the proportionate amount of water conditioner you will require and

keep it handy. Unplug all electrically connected heaters, filters and

lights. As you siphon the water off, collect it in a measuring bucket

or container. Once you've siphoned off the required volume of water,

replace all the rocks and decorations that were taken out for

cleaning.

How to refill the tank:

You would be well advised to pre-fill a container of water at least a

day or two prior to the water change in order to allow for the chlorine

to dissipate. If you have not done this and will be using water

straight from the faucet, first allow the water to run for a few

minutes to decrease the concentration of copper from the plumbing.

Bring the water temperature as close as possible to the ideal tank

water temperature; place a heater in the water if necessary. Add all

the conditioners to the water and gently pour the water into the tank.

Do not forget to maintain a log, and record all details for future

reference.

Temperature of water in the tank:

Ideally the temperature of the water in the tank should be maintained

at 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Fish can tolerate moderate temperature

changes without any adverse effects. But the key word here is

'moderate'. It is important that dramatic, rapid changes in the

temperature of the water should be avoided. The temperature should

also not be consistently too low or too high. Fish adapt well to slow

temperature changes as long as these do not place them outside

their comfort zone.

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Tips for Choosing a Healthy Betta at The Store

It is important to know what one should look for when buying a Betta

from the pet store. The fish should be a healthy specimen from the

outset. If you end up buying an unhealthy Betta, it is an almost

certain recipe for disaster. You could end up spending many

distressing hours trying to improve its looks, color and general health

to no avail. These fragile fish do not recover easily from

malnourishment or maltreatment and you would be heart-broken if it

died in your care.

It is always a good starting point to make sure that the Betta fish was

well cared-for during its stay at the pet store. In fact, make sure that

it is actually alive while you are in the store. Sometimes Betta fish lie

dead in plastic bags or glass bowls, something that could go

completely unnoticed. Often, the Betta fish in the stores are already

sick because of the less-than-healthy conditions in which they may

have been kept. By going to an obscure pet store, you could be doing

yourself a disservice. Stick to those that enjoy a good reputation.

Check out the surrounding environment: Make sure that the jars, in

which the fish are kept, are clean. The water should appear fresh and

clear with no traces of leftover food. There should be no bad odors

emanating from the jars. These malodors could possibly be from

dead fish. Next, a thorough check-up of the fish needs to be

undertaken.

Check the body: The body should be free from any kind of lumps or

bumps. The scales are flat and smooth in a healthy Betta, with

missing and loose scales signifying a history of trauma and illness.

White patches on the body could be indicative of a fungus infection. If

its stomach is swollen, consider this a clear warning that the Betta is

certainly not well.

Check the Fins and Gills: There should be no discolorations, tears or

holes when the Betta's fins are extended. This may be very difficult to

properly check, because it is almost impossible for the Betta to

extend its fins in the tiny bag or container that it is usually kept in at

a pet store. In fact, Betta fins get broken or torn because of the very

fact that they are kept for extended periods of time in containers way

too small for them. When these showy fish swim around, their fins

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brush against the walls of the containers and tend to break. The gills

should look smooth and flat with no sign of peeling. There should be

absolutely no lumps or discoloration at all.

Check the Color: Healthy Betta fish are brightly colored with no

apparent discoloration. Unhealthy Betta fish have a pale appearance

with some discoloration seen along their body or face.

Check the eyes: Healthy Betta fish have clear eyes. Do not buy Betta

fish whose eyes are either sunken or bulging.

Check the Behavior: Betta fish are usually active and float upright,

unless they are sleeping. Bring your hand close to the Betta fish to

make sure that it is alert. Don't end up startling it though jabbing a

finger into the bag in which it is stored, or by tapping against its

bowl. Rather move your hand gently toward the Betta and gauge its

reaction. Be subtle and gentle so as not to traumatize the fish. A

healthy Betta is very alert and will always react in one way or the other

to the movement it detects, though it may not always respond by

flaring.

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Breeding Your Betta Fish

When you decide to breed your Betta Fish, the first step is to make

sure you are ready. It will take time, money, space for around fifty

jars to separate males, a secure pond with no other fish and a good

level of experience caring for Bettas already.

Presuming the answer is yes; the next step is to obtain a female. This

can be difficult, as few stores sell them. Once you have both, don't

leave them in the same tank. Start with cheap Bettas, to avoid wasting

lots of money. Later on, after you become an expert, you can try to

breed your own masterpieces. Look for fish with some energy to

increase the chances of spawning. The chosen fish should be

between seven and eighteen months old, and a spare pair just in case

is also a wise precaution.

Prepare the mating tank, ten gallons is about right. Don't add much

decorations or gravel, but some large leafed plants will help the

female hide from the male. The temperature should be around eighty

degrees and the depth about six inches until the fry, or baby fish,

begin swimming. Normally, you wouldn't worry about air filtration

with Bettas, but the fry will require it. However, they cannot handle a

powerful filter. The old-fashioned box type, powered by an air pump

is best, and the carbon filter that came with the pump is not

acceptable. Instead, use floss or sponges. This is to avoid bad

reactions between the carbon and an anti-fungal treatment. It is wise

to let the pump operate through a complete cycle before fish are

exposed to it to allow bacteria to grow.

Begin feeding the fish high quality food. One breeder recommends

the following sequence: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some

live or frozen brine shrimp, then a few live Black Worms. Others

swear by tubifex worms and other combinations. Do not overfeed, as

this will still force you to clean the tank and replace the water more

often. Change twenty percent of the water in each tank each day to

help prevent this and encourage the fish to get ready to breed. The

male should be in the breeding tank, and should be able to see the

female in her tank. He should begin to build a bubble nest.

With the high quality food, the female should begin to plump up as

eggs are produced. With lighter colored breeds you can sometimes

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see the eggs, and the fish should produce horizontal stripes when

ready. If that isn't showing, look near the anal fin for a white gravid

tube. If this is showing, she is ready.

Now comes the key moment. Plan for at least an hour when you can

be present to supervise. Put the female in the water with the male.

There can be some rough treatment, including some mutual fin

nipping or even worse behavior. If it gets too rough, remove the

female and plan to wait a few days to let her recover, but if you don't

give them a chance, there won't ever be any fry. If all goes well, they

will conduct what is called an embrace, and she will produce eggs

under the bubble nest. He will fertilize them and begin to care for the

eggs. The female should be removed now, lest she become fish food.

For the next two days, the male will keep the eggs cleaned and in the

bubble nest, recovering any that fall. Then come the fry. For about

thirty-six hours, they'll be unable to move out of the tank. Around

two days after hatching, the first fry will begin to swim without help.

At this point, remove the male fish lest the fry become fish food. A

day after the fry hatch, they need their first feeding, and baby brine

shrimp, daphnia, microworms, or liquid fry food for egg layers are

good choices. They'll need feeding up to five times a day.

Now comes the hard part. Many experienced breeders say this can

only be done in a suitable pond. The temperature must be above at

least 68 and preferably 70 degrees. There must be no fish to eat the

fry, and a variety of tiny aquatic creatures to eat.

After about ten days, they can take a little powdered food. This is a

small amount of very finely crushed flake food. They should be about

a quarter of an inch long. At about four weeks, they should be around

a half inch long, and should begin to show sexual dimorphism, so

you can tell the males from the females. Separate the males from

each other before fighting begins.

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Keeping Bettas in Vases

"Betta in a Vase", is a large vase containing a peace lily plant, a Betta

fish and some marbles either at the bottom or in a tray on top of the

vase. It looks as beautiful as it sounds and is judged to be very much

the 'in thing' at the moment. Everyone who considers themselves

trendy or stylish, are clamoring to lay their hands on one or maybe

more of these eye catching "Betta in a Vase" ornaments to grace their

homes and offices.

Although "Betta in a Vase" may look fabulous on your coffee table or

striking in a cluster of three on your dining room table, the truth is

that it is both unhealthy and inhumane to the suffering Betta so

proudly displayed in the vase. Many of the people, who buy these

living knick-knacks, are reassured by the sellers that the Betta is

comfortable and content with being in the vase. But are they? Let's

take a look at life in a vase from the Betta's point of view.

For started, they need more room. Bettas require a lot of space within

which to move around. They need to stretch out their fins, so to

speak and get sufficient exercise. A vase, however large, limits the

range of their movements and results in them damaging their fins.

Bettas need more Oxygen than the vase can provide. It is true that

Betta can obtain oxygen either from fresh water or via special

respiratory gland directly from the atmosphere if oxygen levels in the

water are low. The issue is that for the Betta to use this special

respiratory gland, they need to have access to the atmosphere. In the

unnatural vase habitat the Betta finds itself, the tray of marbles or the

water lily will block its access to the surface and leave the Betta

gasping for oxygen when the supply in the water is diminished. A

further risk is that the peace lily will eventually die, thus releasing

toxins into the water. These toxins have an adverse and sometimes

fatal effect on the Betta in the vase.

They need food and care. Many people are led into believing that a

Betta in a vase requires neither. This is not true at all. In its natural

habitat, the Betta's diet consists of insects and insect larvae. This

fish's digestive tract is designed for meats. As with any other Betta

kept as pets, the Betta in a vase needs to be fed regularly with freeze-

dried bloodworms or fish to keep ensuring continued health and

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well-being. Starved and desperate, the Betta in a vase will eventually

resort to eating the lily roots when nothing else is offered for it to

feed on.

This is neither natural nor healthy for the Betta. If the Betta is

deprived of its necessary nutrients, it could fall prey to any disease.

Even if the Betta is fed, the vase should be dealt with as one would

with a fish tank. The leftover food still needs to be siphoned off so

that the water in the vase does not get contaminated and replenished

with fresh water containing water conditioners. If this is not done, it

will result in the death of the Betta. The vase cannot be viewed in the

same light as that of natural waters where scavengers break down

wastes and clean the water. The Betta vase needs to be cleaned at

least once a week!

Betta needs proper water temperature, one of the many factors that

have been completely overlooked by those who invented this fad.

Bettas thrive in hot, moist climates and in waters that are maintained

at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. They may survive at lower temperatures

but get very lethargic and stop eating. Unless you live in a warm

climate, it is almost impossible to regulate the temperature of the

water in a vase.

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Plants for Your Beta Fish

Betta fish have a lung-like labyrinth organ that allows them to

breathe in air above the water line and not just through the water.

Because of this ability to breath above the waterline, Betta fish are

often found in their natural habitat swimming in the shallower water

between water plants, rising to the water's surface to feed on larvae

and plankton.

What's in the bowl?

When introducing your Betta into a fish tank or fish bowl, it would be

a great idea to create an environment similar to its natural habitat. In

addition to the fact that a recreated natural habitat would be beautiful

to look at, it will also help to keep the Betta happy and healthy. All it

takes is a bit of planning and then adding appropriate plants and

ornaments into the Betta's artificial habitat.

Choosing the plants!

When recreating the Betta's habitat you can choose between using

plastic ornamental plants and real plants, which help generate oxygen

in the water for the Betta's usage. Here are a few tips on what plants

you can safely in your aquarium for both you and your Betta fish's

enjoyment.

Plastic: Plastic plants offer many benefits. Whilst they do not produce

oxygen for the water like natural plants do, they also do not create

dirt. In addition, plastic plants do not decay anywhere near as quickly

as natural plants. Plastic plants are easier to come by and a greater

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variety can be had. If you decide to use plastic plants for your Betta's

tank, make sure that you clean these every time you change the

water.

Natural: One of the more common ornamental objects used in Betta

fish tanks, is natural water plants. There are many different kinds of

water plants to choose from. Some types are more suitable for this

breed of aquatic creatures than others. If you do decide to follow the

natural plant route, it may be good start to ensure that these are

actually aquatic and not poisonous to the Betta at all.

The roots of natural aquatic plants usually grow downward into the

water. It is a good idea to keep an eye on the roots. If these start

cramping the Betta's movement due to its size or takes on a soggy

brown look, you would be well advised to cut them back. If the plant

looks as though it could be dying, it would be best to remove it from

the tank altogether.

One of the possible choices for your Betta is a plant called Chinese

evergreen. Other plants you can use include philodendrons and the

ever popular peace water lilies. Philodendrons are ornamental plants

that are usually found in swamps or river banks. There are quite a

few varieties of philodendron to choose from. Another safe plant that

may be used for your Betta fish is the photos plant. The photos plant

is usually found in terrariums and fish aquariums and is ideal for

indoor setups because it does not require a lot of light. The water

sprites and java fern plants are also other acceptable plants you can

use in your Betta fish's recreated habitat.

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Essential guidelines to setting up your Betta's tank or bowl

The most important thing to remember if you are setting up a Betta's

tank is that they need a lot of space and clean water. The

recommended minimum amount of water per Betta is one gallon. This

effectively means that the aquarium should be large enough to hold

one gallon of water per Betta you wish to introduce. Betta can be fun

fish if they have enough space to frolic around in. "Betta in a Vase," a

recent fad, which involves placing one Betta in a large vase along with

a peace lily and some marbles, should be considered inhumane and

avoided as such. Although beautiful to look at, this fad amounts to

nothing but torture and the likelihood of death for the Betta

concerned.

Betta fish can jump and will jump when the opportunity presents

itself. It is a good idea to place a cover (with sufficient air holes in it)

over the Betta tank to prevent the Betta from jumping right out. Betta

do not only obtain oxygen from the water, but also from the

atmosphere. For this reason, it is important that they have access to

fresh air and oxygen from outside the tank. This will keep your Betta

healthy and happy. No doubt he (or she) will jump with joy at the

thought of fresh air without running the risk of falling from the tank.

Make sure that the filtration system in your tank does not pose a

threat to the safety of the Betta. It should be set up in such a way that

your Betta cannot get its fins stuck at the point of air intake. Also

ensure that the setting of the filtration system is kept at the lowest

level. Betta fish get stressed when there is rapid movement in the

water. The low-set filter will not cause any current within the tank.

Betta fish thrive in waters that are about 75 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

You should have a thermometer and keep a constant check of the

water to ensure that it is consistently maintained within the optimum

temperature range. Rapid, drastic temperature changes stress them

out and make them prone to fin rot and other diseases.

There are many types of thermometers available: Either floating or

submersible glass thermometers that are alcohol based or liquid

crystal strips that are a stick-on type could be used. The advantage of

having a liquid crystal stick-on thermometer is that it is placed

outside the tank. The greatest drawback is that is offers a lower

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degree of accuracy. Submersible or floating thermometers are very

precise and accurate, and are placed inside the water in the tank. The

only drawback is that it must be cleaned as you would any other tank

decoration or ornament.

Another way of checking the temperature of the tank water is with a

hand-held thermometer. It's simple to do - you just take a sample of

water from the tank, insert the thermometer and read the

temperature. This thermometer is particularly useful in ensuring that

the fresh water being added to the tank during a water change is of

the right temperature.

To achieve the required water temperature, a tank heater can be

used. A 25 Watt tank heater will suffice for a 2-gallon tank. It is

important to monitor the heating process as the water can reach the

desired temperature quite quickly.

A well set up tank will go a long way towards ensuring that your Betta

fish remain happy, healthy and a joy to behold.

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What Fish Food Is Right for Your Betta Fish

Betta fish are one of the more sought after fish species admired,

collected and bred by fish aficionados. They are usually kept as pets

because of their colorful bodies and impressive fin shapes. The most

popular Betta fish is the Siamese Fighting Fish. Betta fish grow to an

average length of two and a quarter inches in captivity and come in a

multitude of bright colors. Betta are classified as Gourami and part of

the Osphronemidae family of fresh water perciform fishes.

They are labyrinth fish that can survive in fairly shallow water due to

their ability to obtain oxygen both from the air and the water. Betta

fish are a hardy bunch that can survive in smaller and less-than-ideal

conditions when compared to other aquarium fishes.

What goes in!

Similar to other fish that are kept as pets, Betta needs to be fed with

the correct quantity of nutritious foods on a regular basis. Betta fish

are carnivorous. They feed on zooplankton, water-bound insect

larvae and mosquito larvae in their natural habitats. The zooplankton

and larvae are replaced by daphnia, bloodworms, and brine shrimp

for those Betta fish raised and kept in captivity. One of the more

popular Betta fish foods is the Combination Betta Pellets. These fish

food pellets are essentially a mixture of common fish food such as

bloodworms and mashed shrimp meal to which special vitamins are

added. This combination boosts the immune system, promotes

longevity and enhances the Betta's beautiful, bright colors.

Other fish foods should be offered to these aquatic pets too to

introduce variety, additional nutrients and much needed fiber to their

diets. Bettas can sometimes be fed minutely chopped veggies which

are substantially high in protein, such as green beans, soy beans,

corn, broccoli and carrots.

They like a good variety!

Bettas often fare better when provided with a wider selection of

different foods. The reward is in the eye of the beholder through a

show of richer, brighter as well as deeper shades and hues in the

fish's appearance. Another advantage to be had is that Betta following

a varied diet of high protein and high fiber foods, will heal much

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faster when fin damage is inevitably sustained than those Betta fish

following limited variety, low fiber and low protein diets.

Betta fish have upturned mouths. In their natural habitats, Betta

would feed on larvae and plankton at the surface of the water. For

this reason, foods with the ability to float on the water's surface will

probably be the best choice.

How often do you feed them?

Feeding your Betta fish should be done between two and three times

every day and only in amounts that can be consumed by the fish

within a few minutes. Do not over feed your Betta fish as the left over

food will cause a higher than normal bacterial concentration, thus

putting your Betta at a greater risk of bacterial diseases and

infections. Feeding your Betta some live black worms every now and

then or even some live shrimp can be very healthy, as long as this is

done in moderation.

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