beads east beaded slide

©2011 Ann Benson, all rights reserved. This material is intended for the private use of one individual only. Any commer-cial or instructional use is prohibited without prior express written permission of the copyright holder.


MATERIALS

STEP 1 Construct the beaded bezel. Sandwich together a rectangle of nonwoven stitching base and gold leather. Place the oval stone down on the center of the nonwoven stitching base and trace around the outer edge with pen or marker (1A).

Secure a wingspan of thread on the oval outline, with the tail thread on the nonwoven side (1B). Back stitch a line of 12os onto the leather side of the sandwich, following the oval outline on the opposite side (1C). Use two-bead back stitch so you end up with an even number of beads.

After stitching the entire oval outline, stitch a single 12o in the middle of the oval in the 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock positions (1D). These beads will keep the slightly pointed stone level in the bezel (1E, 1F).

Add one round of 12os to the back stitched oval in Peyote stitch in the round (1G). For a primer of Peyote stitch in the round see the end of the direction set or visit www.beadseast.com.

Put a dab of glue in the middle of the oval (1H). Place the stone in the oval (1I).

Czech 14o seed bead (30)Japanese 15o seed bead, color A (69)Japanese 15o seed bead, color B (80)Japanese 15o 3-cut seed bead (30)Japanese 12o 3-cut seed bead (230)Japanese or Czech 11o seed bead (23)3mm Japanese Magatama bead (23)Czech 1o or 3o seed beads (20-40)24pp rhinestone cup chain, 5 in.Leather, 3 in. x 3 in. squareSuede, 3 in. x 4 in. rectangleMulti-strand fiber hank (10-20 strands)Nylon thread; size 12 and 13 beading needles

Beaded Bolodesigned by Ann Benson

1A

1B

1C1D

1E

1F

1G1H

1I

The sueded inside grips your fibers so the bolo will stay in place without findings. Choose colors to coordinate with your favorite outfit!

Add two more rounds of 12os in Peyote stitch in the round (1J). Add one round of 15o cuts (1K), and one round of Czech 14os (1L). Secure the thread and trim it.

1J

1K

1L



STEP 2 Add the cup chain around the bezel. To determine the length of the cup chain, wrap it around the base of the bezel so that it is still laying flat, and trim the chain with wire cutters where it overlaps the end (2A).

Trim the cup chain so that one end has a protruding chain segment, and the other end does not (2B).

Spread a thin bead of jewelry glue around the outside of the bezel, where the cup chain will rest (2C). Place the cup chain around the be-zel, so the two end cups are spaced equally to the rest of the cups (2D). Allow the glue to dry.

STEP 3 Add the beaded “bridges” over the cup chain links. Start one yard of thread in the leather/nonwoven sandwich. Bring the thread out of the leather just on the outside of the cup chain, between two cups.

Pick up one Magatama, one 11o, and three 15A. Stitch down through the base on the outside of the cup chain, between the two cups. Stitch up through the base on the outside of the cup chain, between the next two cups (3B).

Pick up three 15A, one 11o, and one Magatama. Stitch into the leather between the cup chain and the initial back stitched oval of 12os, so the beads lie over the space between the two cups. Bring the thread out of the base between the initial back stitched oval of 12os and the cupchain, between the next two cups. (3A).

Repeat this process to add the same group of beads between each cup in the cup chain (3C). Secure the thread in the beadwork and trim it.

STEP 4 Finish the bolo. Using sharp scissors, trim the leather/nonwoven base 3/16 to 1/4” outside of the initial back stitched round of 12os, following the oval ring of stitches from the back (4A, 4B).

2A

2B

2C

2D

3A

3B

3C

4A4B

Spread glue onto the back of the nonwoven base and place the base down onto a piece of black suede. Allow the glue to dry, then trim the suede along the oval (4C).

Cut out a rectangular piece of nonwoven stitching base so that the long side is almost the same width as the narrow radius of the oval (4D).

Cut out two pieces of suede slightly longer than the non-woven rectangle (4E).

4C

4D

4E

You should have two rectangular pieces of suede and one rectangular piece of nonwoven stitching base (4F).

4F

Color the long edges of the nonwoven rectangle with a black magic marker (4G).

4G

Sandwiching the nonwoven rectangle between the two suede rectangles, add a basic beaded edging along the long edges using 12os (4H).



Using the edged rectangle as a guide, trim the two long sides of the oval to the same length as the short sides of the rectangle (4I).

Hold the edged rectangle on the back side of the oval and add a beaded edging using 12os, making sure to stitch through the ends of the rectangle too (4J).

4H 4I

4J

BASIC BEADED EDGING

Bring a thread out about 1/16th” from the edge; pick up two beads (A). Run through the edge again about two beads’ width away, then run through the second bead from inside to outside. Take the slack out of the thread (B). Pick up another bead and run through the edge one bead’s width away, then run through this added bead from inside to outside; take the slack out of the thread (C). Diagram D shows a back view of the edging start with four beads in place; the first bead does not have a thread on the back side; it will be added later when you connect the last and first beads.

Adapt the stitch to corners and curves as shown here. Round outside corners very slightly; try to avoid placing a bead directly on the corner. Span the corners with two beads if possible.

To connect the last bead to the first (E), run the thread outside to inside through the first bead, then through the edge on the back. This will seat the first stitch more neatly on the edge. Loop through an adjacent bead to secure the thread, then bring it out on the back and trim it close.

E

CBA D

WRONG RIGHT

Keep the ends of your fibers from unravel-ling by applying a thin bead of glue or fray-check to the ends (4L).

Knot the fibers on each side of the beads to keep them in place (4N).

Add an embellishment to the edging around the oval. Bring your thread out of an edge bead and pick up one 15B, then stitch into the next edge bead. Pick up one 15B, then stitch out through the next edge bead. Continue this pattern all around the oval (4K).

Pull the ends of the fibers through size 33o or 1o beads using a folded piece of wire or crochet hook (4M). Knot again; apply a small dab of glue to the cut end after trimming.

4K

4L

4M

4N

Peyote stitch in the round starts with an initial ring of beads. Your specific directions will tell you how many beads should be threaded. Create the ring by running the thread back through several beads. This ring will later become the first TWO rounds of stitching.

Pick up one bead, skip one bead on the initial ring, then run the thread through the next bead on the ring. As you tighten the thread you’ll notice that the beads shift their positions and form a “zipper tooth” pattern.

At the end of each round, prior to starting the new round, you must “step up”. When you have three beads left on the initial ring and your thread emerges from the first of those beads, you’re ready to step up. After pick-ing up the bead to be added, go through TWO beads on the upward diagonaln (dotted in orchid).

In subsequent rounds, you’ll recognize the step up by the distinctive V-shaped gap at the end of the round. Again, you’ll pick up your bead and go through TWO beads on the upward diagonal (shown in orchid).

Continue in this manner, adding rounds as your direc-tions specify, stepping up in preparation for each new round.

BASIC PEYOTE STITCH IN THE ROUND

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