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stepbystepBase[1] On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of Fireline, stitch a six-bead ladder (Online Basics) using 110 cylinder beads and leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Form the ladder into a ring (Online Basics) to create round 1.[2] Work in herringbone stitch (Online Basics) as follows: Round 2: Pick up two cylinders, and sew down through the next cylinder in the ring and up through the following cylinder. Repeat twice, and step up through the first cylinder in the new round (figure 1).

Round 3: Work an increase herringbone round: Pick up two cylinders, and sew down through the next cylinder in the previous round. Pick up a cylinder, and sew up through the next cylinder in the previous round. Repeat twice, and step up through the first cylinder in the new round (figure 2). Round 4: Work an increase herringbone round: Pick up two cylinders, and sew down through the next cylinder in the previous round. Pick up two 150 seed beads, and sew up through the next cylinder in the previous round. Repeat twice, and step up through the first cylinder in the new round (figure 3).

A variety of stitches equals multiple design options

BeadedBEAD CAPS

designed by Amy Johnson

Combine ladder stitch, herringbone, and fringe to dress up any large art-glass, stone, or crystal bead. Mix and match the various techniques to achieve a different look for each pair you make.

These beaded bead caps work well on coin-shaped, round, and oval beads.

BEAD WEAVING

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

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©2011 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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Round 5: Pick up two cylinders, and sew down through the next cylinder in the previous round and up through the next 150. Pick up two 150s, and sew down through the next 150 in the previous round and up through the next cylinder. Repeat twice, and step up through the first cylinder in the new round (figure 4).

Bottom fringe[1] To make a cylinder fringe, pick up two cylinders, sew through the next cylinder and the cylinder your thread exited at the start of this step, and sew through the first cylinder just added. Repeat once (figure 5).[2] Add a crystal embellishment to the end of the cylinder fringe: Pick up two 150s, a color A 4 mm bicone

crystal, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and sew back through the A and one 150. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next four cylinders in the fringe. Sew through the next 150 in the same round (figure 6, a–b).[3] To make a 150 fringe: Pick up two 150s, and sew through the next 150, the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step, and the first 150 just added. Repeat twice (b–c).[4] Add a crystal embellishment at the end of the 150 fringe: Pick up two 150s, a color B 4 mm bicone crystal, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and sew back through the B and one 150. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next four 150s in the fringe. Sew through two cylinders in the next column (c–d).[5] Repeat steps 1–4 twice.

FIGURE 4 FIGURE 5

FIGURE 6

Amy Johnson and Rita Stucke teamed up in 2009 for the first ISGB Convergence competition. Amy designed the bead caps around Rita’s lampworked beads (below). To view more of Amy’s work, visit amyjohnsondesigns.com, or contact her via e-mail at amy@ amyjohnsondesigns.com. Contact Rita at rita1210@comcast.net.

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Top fringeThe top round of fringe is worked in the same manner as the bottom fringe, off the pairs of cylinders and 150s established in the bottom fringe.[1] Pick up two 150s, sew through the next cylinder in the previous round and the cylinder your thread exited at the start of this step, and sew through the first 150 just added. Repeat once, but sew through the 150s just added instead of the cylinders (figure 7, a–b).[2] Pick up two 150s, a 4 mm pearl, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and sew back through the pearl and one 150. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next two 150s and a cylinder in the next column. Sew through the next 150 in the same round (b–c). [3] Repeat steps 1 and 2, but in step 2, sew through three 150s instead of two 150s and a cylinder, and sew through the next cylinder in the same round instead of a 150.[4] Repeat steps 1–3 until you have six top fringes. End the working thread (Online Basics).

Edge trim[1] Thread a needle on the tail, and make sure the thread is exiting round 1

FIGURE 7 FIGURE 8

pointing away from the fringe (figure 8, point a). The edge trim will be added to the top and bottom of each cylinder in the original ladder. [2] Pick up seven 150s, and sew back through the cylinder your thread exited at the start of this step (a–b). Pick up five 150s, and sew back through the same base cylinder (b–c). Sew through the next base cylinder (c–d). Pick up five 150s, and sew back through the cylinder your thread just exited (d–e). Pick up seven 150s, and sew back through the last cylinder your thread exited and the next cylinder in round 1 (e–f). [3] Repeat step 2 until you have completed 12 loops off of round 1. End the tail.

Assembly[1] On a head pin, string an A and an 8 mm rondelle; a 3⁄4-in. (1.9 cm) stone, crystal, or art-glass bead; and the beaded bead cap and a 6 mm bicone crystal.[2] Make a plain loop (Online Basics) above the 6 mm.[3] Open the loop (Online Basics), and attach an earring finding.[4] Make a second earring. w

materialspair of earrings• 2 3⁄4-in. (1.9 cm) stone, crystal, or art-glass beads • 2 8 mm rondelles • 2 6 mm bicone crystals• 4 mm bicone crystals

8 color A 6 color B• 12 4 mm crystal pearls• 1–2 g 110 Japanese cylinder beads • 2 g 150 seed beads• 2 2-in. (5 cm) 22-gauge head pins• pair of earring findings• Fireline 6 lb. test• beading needles, #12 or #13• chainnose pliers• roundnose pliers• wire cutters

DESIGNER’S NOTE:For earrings with a little more sparkle (above), in step 2 of “Edge trim,” instead of picking up seven 150s, pick up a 150, a 3 mm pearl, a 3 mm Czech glass bead, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and sew back through the rest of the beads. Then, instead of picking up five 150s, pick up a 150, a 4 mm crystal, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and sew back through the 4 mm and the 150.