Basics fashion design: 05. Fashion drawing

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<ul><li><p>Basic</p><p>s Fash</p><p>ion D</p><p>esig</p><p>n 0</p><p>5John H</p><p>opkin</p><p>s </p><p>The Basics Fashion Design seriesfrom AVA Publishings Academiaimprint comprises a collection oftitles that, together, cover the keyelements of fashion design:Research and Design, Textiles andFashion, Construction, Developing a Collection, Fashion Drawing andKnitwear. The series provides anessential introduction to the subjectand forms a comprehensivereference tool for students andanyone interested in the art offashion design.</p><p>To become a successful fashiondesigner you will need to developyour drawing skills, but for anycareer in fashion it is important tohave an understanding of the basicprinciples of good fashion drawing.</p><p>Basics Fashion Design: FashionDrawing provides a visuallyorientated introduction to the subjectby considering the different styles,techniques and approaches used inthe fashion industry. Packed withinterviews and work by talenteddesigners and illustrators, this bookwill both inform and inspire you.</p><p>Ethical practice is well known, taughtand discussed in the domains ofmedicine, law, science and sociologybut was, until recently, rarely discussed in the terms of the AppliedVisual Arts. Yet design is becoming an increasingly integral part of our everyday lives and its influence on our society ever-more prevalent.</p><p>AVA Publishing believes that our world needs integrity; that theramifications of our actions upon others should be for the greatesthappiness and benefit of the greatestnumber. We do not set ourselves out as arbiters of what is good orbad, but aim to promote discussion in an organised fashion for anindividuals understanding of their own ethical inclination.</p><p>By incorporating a working with ethics section and cover stamp on all our titles, AVA Publishing aims to help a new generation of students,educators and practitioners find a methodology for structuring theirthoughts and reflections in this vital area.</p><p>John Hopkins is Head of Fashion andTextiles at Winchester School of Art,University of Southampton, in the UK.He studied fashion at Central SaintMartins College of Art and Design,London, before graduating with amasters degree in fashion design. Soon after graduating from SaintMartins he gained extensiveprofessional experience as awomenswear designer with Jaeger and Burberry, where he worked for over ten years, as well as working as a freelance illustrator for the FashionService in London and New York. </p><p>Johns teaching career began in theUnited States, where he served as Chair of Fashion at Savannah College of Art &amp; Design. During this time heextended his international experienceworking with illustrators and designersbefore returning to the UK to take up his position as Programme Leader for Fashion at Winchester, where hecontinues to share his knowledge andexpertise to support and encouragedesign students and develop hisresearch interests in fashion.</p><p>Featured topicsa brief historyart supplies and materialsthe fashion sketchworking drawingssketchbooksfashion proportionsdrawing from lifecreating posesheads, faces and hairhands, legs and feetdrawing menunderstanding garmentsfashion flatstechnical specificationsvector graphics and bitmapsfashion softwarecollage and mixed mediadigital colouring fabric renderingfashion illustrationpresentation boardsmood boardsdevelopment boardsline-up sheetsdigital presentationsportfoliostemplates</p><p>Featured contributorsPetra BrnerLovisa BurfittCecilia CarlstedtStephanie FinnanHolly Mae GoochRichard HainesElmaz HseyinHelena KruczynskaWendy PlovmandTomek SowackiSandra SuyHoward TangyeLuis Tinoco</p><p>ava publishing sa sales@avabooks.chwww.avabooks.ch</p><p>BASICS</p><p>05FASHION DESIGN</p><p>FASHIONDRAWING</p><p>BASICS</p><p>05</p><p>vto produce an image bymaking lines and marks on paper</p><p>John HopkinsFASHION DESIGN</p><p>na popular or the latest style of clothing, hair, decoration or behaviour</p><p>FASHIO</p><p>N D</p><p>RAW</p><p>ING</p><p>Publishers note</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABK5 Cover FD 17.08 ED_ 8/28/09 12:52 PM Page 1</p><p>ISBN-13: 978-2-940411-15-3</p><p>9 7 8 2 9 4 0 4 1 1 1 5 3</p><p>UKEdn</p><p>17.95</p></li><li><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABK5 Title 13.07_001 8/26/09 1:56 PM Page 1</p><p>FASHIONDRAWING</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>BASICS</p><p>05</p><p>John HopkinsFASHION DESIGN</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABK5 Title 13.07_001 8/26/09 1:56 PM Page 1</p></li><li><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:19 AM Page 2</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>An AVA BookPublished by AVA Publishing SARue des Fontenailles 16Case Postale1000 Lausanne 6Switzerland Tel: +41 786 005 109Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch</p><p>Distributed by Thames &amp; Hudson (ex-North America)181a High HolbornLondon WC1V 7QXUnited KingdomTel: +44 20 7845 5000 Fax: +44 20 7845 5055Email: sales@thameshudson.co.ukwww.thamesandhudson.com</p><p>Distributed in the USA &amp; Canada by:Ingram Publisher Services Inc.1 Ingram Blvd. La Vergne TN 37086USATel: +1 866 400 5351 Fax: +1 800 838 1149Email: customer.service@ingrampublisherservices.com</p><p>English Language Support OfficeAVA Publishing (UK) Ltd. Tel: +44 1903 204 455Email: enquiries@avabooks.ch</p><p>Copyright AVA Publishing SA 2010</p><p>All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of the copyright holder.</p><p>ISBN 978-2-940411-15-3</p><p>10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 </p><p>Design by Sifer Design</p><p>Cover illustration by Cecilia Carlstedt</p><p>Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., SingaporeTel: +65 6334 8173 Fax: +65 6259 9830Email: production@avabooks.com.sg</p><p>All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to incorporate amendments in future editions.</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 2</p></li><li><p>2 / 3</p><p>1</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:19 AM Page 3</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>1 Illustration by Lovisa Burfitt.</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 3</p></li><li><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 3:16 PM Page 4</p><p>Introduction 6</p><p>How to get the most out of this book 8</p><p>Contents</p><p>Fash</p><p>ion </p><p>Dra</p><p>win</p><p>g</p><p>Drawing to communicateyour ideas 10</p><p>A brief history 12Art supplies for drawing 20The fashion sketch 24Working drawings 30Sketchbooks 36</p><p>InterviewsElmaz Hseyin 42Lovisa Burfitt 44</p><p>The fashion figure 48</p><p>Understanding fashionproportions 50Drawing from life 52Creating poses 56Fashion heads, faces and hair 60Arms, hands, legs and feet 66Drawing men 70</p><p>InterviewHoward Tangye 74</p><p>Technical drawings 78</p><p>Understanding garments 80Drawing fashion flats 84Drawing technical specifications 88Vector graphics and bitmaps 90</p><p>InterviewTomek Sowacki 94</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 4</p></li><li><p>4 / 5</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:19 AM Page 5</p><p>Conclusion 160</p><p>Templates 162</p><p>Further resources 166</p><p>Acknowledgements and picture credits 168</p><p>Working with ethics 169</p><p>Co</p><p>nten</p><p>ts</p><p>Presentation formats 120</p><p>Fashion illustration 122Presentation boards 126Digital presentations 134</p><p>InterviewsCecilia Carlstedt 136Luis Tinoco 140Sandra Suy 144</p><p>Fashion portfolios 148</p><p>What is a fashion portfolio? 150Digital portfolios 154</p><p>Interview Stephanie Finnan 156</p><p>Colouring and rendering 96</p><p>Colour for fashion 98Fabric rendering 104Collage and mixed media 110Digital colouring and rendering 112</p><p>InterviewPetra Brner 116</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 5</p></li><li><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:19 AM Page 6</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 6</p></li><li><p>6 / 7</p><p>1</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:19 AM Page 7</p><p>Introduction</p><p>Drawing may be described as an evolutionary process that is fundamental to communicating ideas. This is also true offashion drawing, with its distinctive nuances and associationswith style. The exciting breadth and diversity of whatconstitutes fashion drawing today is testimony to the creative vision of fashion designers and fashion illustratorsalike. It reflects the range and scope of media now available,from a simple graphite pencil to sophisticated CAD programs. </p><p>Basics Fashion Design: Fashion Drawing provides a visuallyorientated introduction to the different drawing styles,techniques and approaches that are taught at colleges andused extensively in the fashion industry. The first part of thebook addresses the basic principles of good fashion drawing,including the importance of the ubiquitous fashion sketch incommunicating an idea. Understanding fashion proportions inrelation to the anatomy of the standing figure is considered inchapter two. The following chapter introduces the distinctivenature and purpose of fashion flats and the linear drawingprocesses of individual garments. The role of computers tosupport and enhance the drawing process is also consideredand compared to more traditional hand-rendering techniques.The second part of the book covers drawing enhancements,including colour rendering as an important aspect of fashionartwork, collage and mixed media techniques. Finally, fashiondrawings for presentation formats and fashion portfolios areexplained and visually illustrated. </p><p>Perhaps the most defining characteristic of the fashiondrawing process, and particularly the fashion sketch, is that it should enable the designer or illustrator to express him orherself. It should give rise to a personal drawing style, muchlike we have our own handwriting styles. Drawing can taketime to establish and a lifetime to perfect. However, its worthperfecting and it does get better with practice!</p><p>1 Fashion designer andillustrator Lovisa Burfittdescribes her drawing styleas very fast and restless.</p><p>Intr</p><p>od</p><p>ucti</p><p>on </p><p>I dont know where Im going until I actually sit down and draw.</p><p>Jean Muir </p><p>TextBlack</p><p>1st Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: D809-96 / 4255</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_ 8/27/09 8:17 AM Page 7</p></li><li><p>1</p><p>20 / 21</p><p>2nd Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: CD909-142 / 4228</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_.qxp 9/19/09 12:29 PM Page 8</p><p>A b</p><p>rief</p><p> his</p><p>tory</p><p> &gt;A</p><p>rt s</p><p>upp</p><p>lies </p><p>for </p><p>dra</p><p>win</p><p>g &gt;</p><p> The</p><p> fas</p><p>hio</p><p>n sk</p><p>etch</p><p>Pencils and charcoal </p><p>Pencils are among the most versatileand widely used drawing tools fordesigners and fashion students alike.They are available in a wide range of grades, but most people workwithin the 2H, H, HB and 2B range.Each grade offers a different densityand line quality. The harder gradepencils can be useful for producingfine-detailed line drawings, while thesofter grades are well-suited to moreexpressive sketch drawings andadding tonal values. Its always worthexperimenting with pencil drawing,especially when starting out. Pencils</p><p>are well-suited to most papers andholding positions; they may besharpened and adjusted and theirlines can easily be erased.</p><p>Charcoal is useful for fashion life-drawing. Drawing with charcoal is a much looser experience thanworking with pencil since it offersbolder lines that are not intended to be erased. It is a good media forloosening up and drawing on largerpaper sizes. Newsprint is well-suitedfor charcoal, allowing its deeper tonalvalues to come through.</p><p>1 Example of working desk space.</p><p>Dra</p><p>win</p><p>g t</p><p>o c</p><p>om</p><p>mun</p><p>icat</p><p>e yo</p><p>ur id</p><p>eas </p><p>Drawing to communicate your ideas </p><p>Art supplies for drawing </p><p>Setting up your workspace to enable you to draw is a fundamentalstarting point. You should always begin by considering your lightsources: make sure that you can see what you are doing. Somepeople draw on a flat surface but it is worth considering whether toraise your sketchbook or paper off the table and arrange it into aneasel position. This should also free up your arms, which is alwaysthe best way to approach drawing. Arranging your art supplies onthe same side as your drawing hand will help to reduce unnecessarystretching, and helps avoid simple accidents such as dripping painton your drawing. Finally, relax and enjoy the experience.</p><p>How to get the most out of this book</p><p>This book is a visually orientated introduction to fashion drawingand illustration. Each chapter provides numerous examples of thedifferent drawing styles, techniques and approaches that are taughton fashion courses and used within the industry. </p><p>Throughout the book there are interviews with talented designersand illustrators, each of which offers a different perspective ondrawing styles as well as an insight into the fashion industry.</p><p>IntroductionsSpecial section introductionsoutline basic concepts thatwill be discussed.</p><p>ExamplesImagery accompanyingthe content, visuallydescribing fashiondrawing styles andtechniques.</p><p>Clear navigationEach chapter has a clearheading to allow readersto quickly locate areas ofinterest.</p><p>CaptionsThese provide imagedetails and commentaryto guide the reader in theexploration of the visualsdisplayed. </p><p>Fash</p><p>ion </p><p>Dra</p><p>win</p><p>g</p><p>TextBlack</p><p>2nd Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: CD909-142 / 4228</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_.qxp 9/19/09 12:28 PM Page 8</p></li><li><p>8 / 9</p><p>3</p><p>12</p><p>102 / 103</p><p>4</p><p>56</p><p>78</p><p>2nd Proof Title: (AVA): BFD: Fashion DrawingJob No: CD909-142 / 4228</p><p>SIF AVABF5 Chpt1 17.08 ED_002-047_.qxp 9/19/09 12:30 PM Page 9</p><p>Co</p><p>lour</p><p> fo</p><p>r fa</p><p>shio</p><p>n &gt; </p><p>Fab</p><p>ric </p><p>rend</p><p>erin</p><p>g</p><p>18 Colour forecasting andcatwalk trend images fromTrendstop.</p><p>Lab dipsA process whereby a fabricswatch is test dyed to meetan exact colour standard.Lab dips are reviewed in alight box under controlledlighting conditions and may be analysed with aspectrometer.</p><p>Strike-offsA strike-off is a small run ofscreen-printed fabric, whichis used to test the integrity ofthe screen for accuracy andcolour trueness. It also refersto fabric that is printed innew colours or on newgrounds with existing screensbefore a production run.</p><p>Co</p><p>lour</p><p>ing</p><p> and</p><p> ren</p><p>der</p><p>ing</p><p>Colouring and rendering</p><p>Selecting colours or, morespecifically, the right colours for aparticular season is crucial in thefashion industry and can mean thedifference between success andfailure in terms of a labels image andsales. Fashion designers will oftenvisit their suppliers to discuss coloursfor the coming season and will workclosely with their textile partners to</p><p>develop lab dips and strike-offs forprinted textiles. Additionally, theglobal fashi...</p></li></ul>